Letters from the United States, Cuba and Canada

Front matter

This is a reproduction of a book from the McGill University Library collection.

Title: Letters from the United States, Cuba and Canada

Author: Murray, Amelia M. (Amelia Matilda), 1795-1884

Preface

The writer of these letters did not cross the Atlantic to make a book. She has no wish to enter into controversy, or to be supposed a partisan ; but facts can never injure truth, on whichever side it may lie ; and statements made with fidelity and accuracy ought to be welcome. To shrink from their perusal is to exclude (in the present case) one means of knowing the condition and probable future of that race for whom a deep interest is felt by the British public, as well as by the writer of these pages, however different her convictions may be from the. opinions commonly maintained.

Should anything here written excite bitter feelings, or cause individual pain, the error must not be thought intentional. A. M. M.

PAGE

Letter I

The voyage to Halifax — Our Fellow-passengers — A novel Reviver .... 9

LETTER IL

Boston— The Harbour— The First Luxury— Mount Auburn Cemetery— My Present

plans The Athenaeum — Pleasant Location—* Look-out for the Locomotive ’ —

An Agreeable Introduction. — Botanical Researches 13

Onebec-The Clergy Reserves-The Industrial Exhibition- A Malcontent-A Botanical Excursion— Curious Meteoric Light— Visit to a Squaw— Variable Weather Canadian Pensioners-Lord Elgin-Canadian Ladies 71

Contents

LETTER IX. p

Montreal — Victoria Bridge — St. Hilaire — A Pretty Edifice — Silver Heights — Ottawa River — Le Petite Nation — The Massacre — Natural History — Palls of the Ottawa —Officious Care — A Field for Enterprise

Letter X

Lake Ontario — Rideau Canal — Autumn Forest-Tints — Lord Elgin — Seat of Government — The Future of Canada — River St. Lawrence — Primitive Locomotion — Rice Lake— Toronto — Toronto Cathedral — Demonstration at Hamilton— Milton — Falls of Niagara — A Profitable Estate 98

Letter XI

Niagara— Manners of the Squaws— An Old Irishwoman — Lakes Erie and St Clair — Detroit— A perfect Panorama — Sandwich — A Penitent Runaway — Scarcity of Servants — Cleveland — Battle of the Alma — Cayuga Lake — Ithaca — ‘Forest City’

— Homer 112

Letter XII

Albany — Governor Seymour — A Transatlantic Wedding— The Museum — The Slave Problem — The American Clergy — The Penitentiary — Indian Thanksgivings — Origin of the Party Names — A Paternal Governor — A Manxman — Youthful Heroism— Community of Shakers — The Letter of the Law — Probabilities . 120

LETTER XIIL

New York — The Broadway — Greenwood Cemetery — Rev. Henry Ward Beecher-

Philanthropic Institutions— Social Engagements— Doctrine of Compensations

The Maine Law— Washington Irving— An Unbiassed Testimonial— Sectarian Assumption — Hopes for the Future - 144

Letter XIV

New York — The Five Points — Dogmatism — Baltimore — Sisters of Charity — Washington— The Capitol and Museum — Negroes and their Masters — A Motley Assemblage — The Twig and Tree

Letter XV

The New Year — Washington and Andr6 — Character of the ‘Know-nothings’ Occupation of Congress— Smithsonian Institute— Woman’s Mission — Cuba and her Wrongs — A Questionable Alternative — A Postulate

Letter XVI

Washington— Papal Jurisdiction— Extinction of the Tribes— Presidential Evening- Mormon Domesticity— offers of Marriage— Characteristics of the South American Indifference— Benjamin Franklin— Richmond— The Observatory— Railroad Companions — Unpleasant Incidents— Statue of Washington — General Dilapidation— Charlottesville— The University — Road to Staunton— Lexington Perils on

the Road— The Natural Bridge— Scenery on the Powhatan— Geological Features

Links Canal-boat — Petersburg— Wilmington— Mr. Cushing on the War — Superior

Cultivation — Black Servants

17 »

Letter XVII

Charleston— Masters and Slaves— 1 Uncle Tom’s Cabin ’—Darkies as Nurses— North and South— Negro Characteristics— The Tillandsia Usnoides— Botanizing— Magnolia Cemetery— Southern Habits— Belmont— Observations on Slavery . . 197

CONTENTS.

LETTER XVIII. PiOB

Savannah, Georgia— A Rebecca— Negro Character— Mistake of English Philanthropists— Buonaventura Cemetery— A Collision— Return to Savanah— Darien— Plantation— The African Race— Misdirected Zeal— Debts of the States— An Unfavorable Contrast — Negro Indolence — Alligators 210

Letter XIX

Hopeton— Topsy— Slave Honesty— Brunswick— A Primitive Post-Office— Palatka—

A Shell Land — Silver Spring — Botanizing — Democratic Despotism — Tea Service — The Silver Spring — Hotels in America — Tiger Cat — Log-Dwelling — Ocala — Old Dick’s View of Slavery — Panthers — Jacksonville — Charleston — Unusual Cold 224

Letter XX

The Genuine Sea-Serpent — Lighthouse — Key West — Approach to the Harbor — Havana — The Anti-Slavery Movement — Buyers and Sellers — Mrs. Crawford’s Reception — A Spanish Dog — Pic-Nic — The Capitan General e — Negro Depredations — The Coolies — V olantes — Matanzas — Cocoa-Nuts — Sugar-Crushing— Tamorri — Geological Speculations 239

Letter XXI

Matanzas — Monsieur ’s Plantation — Sympathy with the Cubans — Aboriginal Race

— Return to Havana— Anecdote of a Slave Merchant — Abolitionist Notions —

The Cabanos — Filibusterers — Turpitude of the Blacks — Bam on Pinto — Popular Sports — Snake Milker — Position of England — The Future of Cuba — Spanish Misrule — Execution of Ramon Pinto — Mrs. Stowe — Low Moral Condition of the Cubans — New Orleans 254

Letter XXII

New Orleans — Musquito Net— Slavery <v. Freedom — A Penitent Fugitive — Separation of Negro Families — The Opera — Cuban Watch Cries— Cuban Law — Dinner at the British Consul’s — In the Bush — Railroad Accidents — Chatawa — Detention at Osyka — Asylum for Widows — Negro ‘Privilege’ — Unhealthy Locality — Pinto’s Conspiracy — Remarks on Slavery — Diorama of Pilgrim’s Progress — The Mississippi — Liberia — A Paternal Slaveholder — A High-mettled Racer — British Heroism — Address to Americans ........ 263

Letter XXIII

Clerical View of Slavery— Transatlantic Sympathy— Negro Character , . 287

Letter XXIV

Indian Tribes— Parisian Perruquiers— Bayou Navigation— Route to Washington- Planetary Conjunction— Horned Frogs— Fossilized Forest— A Lonely Situation- Crocket— Dignity of a Texan Hostess— Alexandria— Novel Road- Making— Prospect for Emigrants— Birds and Snakes— Red River— Scarcity of Workmen— Letter on Slavery — Fireflies — Effects of a Drought — Eclipse of the Moou . 290

Letter XXV

Street Architecture— Stockport— Montgomery— An Aunty— An Intelligent Negro- Stone Mountain— A Polite Guide— An Obliging Landlord— A Juvenile Coachman— American Romancing—* Cactus Rattailiense ’— Achille Marat— Nashville— Mrs. Polk. 808

CONTENTS.

LETTER XXVI. <*ob

Mammoth Cave — Treatment of Travellers — A Slave Guide — Mocking-birds — Eventualities — A.'Negro Beauty — Louisville — Cincinnati — The Victoria Regia — A Generic Term — Future of Cincinnati — A Precipice Town — Dr. Johnson on Slavery —

An Example — Sunday School Teaching — An Expectant Millenarian — Benevolent Institutions — Democracy and Despotism — A Consistent Republican — A Governor’s Levde — Music in America — The Stone Mountain — The Bluffs of the White River — Error of Editorship — English Aristocracy — Calling Names — The Temperance Legislature — Bribery ........ 819

Letter XXVII

Albany — A Wedding — Ticonderoga — Thunderstorm — Girard College — A Coal District — Travelling by Gravitation — Increase of Episcopacy — Geological Riches — Montrose — Novel Chum — Valley of Peace — Baptism and Confirmation — Elmira — Lake Rosa — Pleasant Travellers — Utica — Bishop Elliott on Slavery — A Negro Wedding — A Negro Funeral— Indian ‘ Sacred Stone 1 — Cazenovia— Fine Prospects — Ornithology — Rural Hotel — American Excavator — A Forest Swamp — Trenton Falls — The Boiling Pot 838

Letter XXVIII

Indian Nomenclature — A Shaker Village — Cambridge — A Troublesome Negro — Whites in the Northern States — Slavery an Ordination of God — A Brotherly Act — Travelling-bag — Life-preserver — The Wise Men of the West — Inhabited Planets — Frozen Wells — The Zodiacal Light— Gigantic Frog — Free Black Mortality — Wheatley Lead Mines — Mr. Abbott Lawrence — Military Cadets — Palace of the Hills — Cuatskill Waterfall — Educational Convention — Staten Island — East River — American Crystal Palace — Ailanthus Glandulosa ...... 859

Letter XXIX

Saratoga — Miscreants — Lake George — Gipsy Expedition — Our Progress — Saranac Lake — Our First Encampment— Preparations for Breakfast — Good Fishing — Deer Hunting — Our Tents — Our Toilet — Long Lake — ‘A Fix’ — Variety of Funguses — A Stormy Night— A Picturesque Medley — The Eight Lakes — A. Word to Travellers — Modern Mirandus — ‘Necessity has no Law ’ — Departure of the Guides — A Neglected Road — Early Memories — Blind Owen — A Prairie District — American and English Soldiers — Uncourteous Manners ...... 874

Letter XXX

Aboriginal City— St. Louis — Chicago— Alton— ‘Women’ and * Ladies Milwaukie

Iron Mountain — State Fair — A Word to Travellers — Want of Consideration

American Society— Dark Rooms— The 4 Lady Elgin ’—Wilful Misdirection— Silurian Fossils— Indian Names— Remarks on Slavery— Epilogue . . . S95

Letter I. The Voyage To Halifax

On Board tub Canada, )

Banks op Newfoundland, July 29, 1854. f

A week ago, on the 22nd, we left the Mersey at 11 o’clock, A. m. ; but this is the first moment that head, hands, and eyes have been willing to work together for the purpose of writing. Captain Stone says he may put letters into a bag at Halifax, and that we are likely to arrive there on Monday night or Tuesday morning, so I will try to have this ready.

Good, kind Mr. and Mrs. Rathbone had exhausted every possible thought for my present and future comfort ; and Mr. Rathbone crowned all by conveying me to the steamer in the Jackal mail tender at the last moment, that I might not spend a single unnecessary hour on board.

The sun shone cheerily, the lively breeze was but just sufficient to give a gay jaunty air to flags and sails, and no sensation, either sad or nervous, affected me, to mar the pleasant scene. I found my two companions already in the ship, and my case of plants happily established behind the wheel-house, where the steersman sits comfortably sheltered, and almost hidden from view.

I arranged my cushions, cloaks, and books on the deck, so as to make me a back of the mizen-mast, alnd in the persuasion that I was about to pass a most agreeable and intellectual afternoon, I 1 *

THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX.

sat down to enjoy myself, with Mrs. F by my side. I had

often heard of the Bell buoy, but no very particular idea had ever been suggested by its name. In the reality, however, there was something very solemn and affecting — its deep-measured musical sound booming over the sea. It called up the first saddening thought that had yet crossed my imagination— the thought, that for how many gallant ships that had gone forth, hopeful and cheerful as our own, had it tolled a knell.

The wind freshened, the motion deepened, and in less than an hour my companion was compelled to desert me. I endeavoured to preserve a stout opinion of my own good sailorship, and opened a book, but as that demanded too much attention, I changed it for the Illustrated London News , of which I accomplished one column, and then tried a nap. Thus I maintained my position till about three o’clock, when no resolution would longer avail, and I was forced to call for help. I almost threw myself into the arms of the stewardess, who still asserts that I am an excellent sailor ; I am willing to believe her, as I never arrived at the conclusion of most great sufferers, that it would be a mercy to throw me overboard ; and on Monday I created quite a sensation among the stewards in the saloon, by appearing ready dressed for breakfast soon after seven o’clock, oblivious of the fact that eight o’clock soon becomes seven in crossing the Atlantic. However, no harm was done. I sat down, and found myself able to read through the Illustrated News , which had become incomprehensible to me at the second page on Saturday ; and though that was the extent of my literary efforts for twenty-four hours, I hailed it as a symptom of convalescence. My friends on board were still hors de combat , and did not revive to an enjoyment of existence until two days later. On Tuesday, Hugh Miller’s Schools and Schoolmasters became a source of great pleasure to me ; and to-day I can write as well as read without inconvenience. There are not more than three or four English among our fellow-passengers. Canadians, Germans, French, but chiefly Americans, make up a hundred guests, entertained in the chief saloon by our captain. Not more than twenty of these are women. There are

OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS.

seventy-four second-class passengers besides. All are kind, sociable and gentlemanly. Three of the men were formerly known to

my friend, Mrs. F , and I am becoming well acquainted with

them. It is very agreeable, as well as useful, to have some gentlemen in the party from whom we can ask and receive kind offices without scruple 5 and when these are bestowed by men of cultivated minds and Christian courtesy, improvement as well as pleasure must be the result of the voyage.

Sunday , July 30. — Such a lovely morning. Air enough, sun enough, sea enough. But I missed seeing three whales, and also a sight of the Asia steamer on her way to Liverpool, by my doubts as to the propriety of making my appearance on deck soon after five in the morning, as I did yesterday. Captain Stone, however, promised to send a messenger to my cabin door on future occasions of the same kind.

We had two magnificent sunsets on the passage — one last night and one on Thursday. I had never till now beheld the sun go down without a cloud or speck of land in sight. It was very striking. A young silvery moon stood just above us, and the scene reminded me of Turner’s picture, ‘ The Old T4m6raire.’

It seems we passed Newfoundland early in the morning, and I would have ‘ turned out ’ to see it, had I known in time. Yesterday we were on the Banks, and saw one schooner drawing up cod-fish out of the water. Some fog attended our passage over these Banks, which are so called because soundings can be made over them, while the main sea is unfathomable.

Health is now restored to the passengers. A cheerful tone of feeling pervades the saloon, where we all resort to read, write, play at chess, or whist; converse in groups or pairs, or take a sound nap in the midst of noise and bustle.

In our whole society, I do not find one person acquainted with the vegetable world, except as regards the edible individuals belonging to it. One poor lady was distressed yesterday at the apparent failure of her endeavour to cultivate, and revive a little plant of Mimulus moschatus, by sending it to the ice-house. I rescued the poor thing from the frozen regions, cut off its perished

THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX.

shoots, and begged its owner to give it a sunny berth with a tumbler placed over it to save the yet surviving roots from the sea-spray ; but life was too far gone to recover it.

I was fortunate before leaving England, accidentally entering a bookseller’s shop in Leamington, to find two interesting new publications, Hugh Miller’s Schools and Schoolmasters , and Murchison’s Siluria. They not only interest me deeply, but afford pleasant reading to my associates.

July 31. — The sun set in a bank of clouds, and we have had some wind and rain in the night ; finding my berth close, I was on deck very early. The Captain of an American merchant ship showed me a Mother Cary’s chicken which was flying just above the water near us. He gave a decided opinion that the best manner of combating sea-sickness is by determined exertion, and by getting up as soon as possible after the first attack. He says the first effort is equally great whether it is made the second day or the twentieth ; he has known people keep their bed eighteen days, and suffer just as much at the end of that time in their attempts to sit upright as they could have done seventeen days sooner ; so that the earlier the battle is begun the sooner it is over. This morning there is more sea than we have yet had, and I bear it well. It is expected that we may reach Halifax late this afternoon, perhaps not till eight or nine o’clock in the evening. I shall be sorry if the hour will not allow us to land ; but I am told that it is a custom among the inhabitants to light up their houses when the arrival of the steamer is known, and that will be a pretty sight. In case I should not be able to add to this letter, I will conclude it now.

A. M. M.