The man-eaters of Tsavo : and other East African adventures

Front matter

I

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited

Preface

It is with feelings of the greatest diffidence that I place the following pages before the public ; but those of my friends who happen to have heard of my rather unique experiences in the wilds have so often urged me to write an account of my adventures, that after much hesitation I at last determined to do so.

I have no doubt that many of my readers, who have perhaps never been very far away from civilisation, will be inclined to think that some of the incidents are exaggerated. I can only assure them that I have toned down the facts rather than otherwise, and have endeavoured to write a perfectly plain and straightforward account of things as they actually happened.

It must be remembered that at the time these events occurred, the conditions prevailing in British East Africa were very different from what they are to-day. The railway, which has modernised the aspect of the place and brought civilisation in its train, was then only in process of

Vlll

PREFACE construction, and the country through which it was being built was still in its primitive savage state, as indeed, away from the railway. It still is.

If this simple account of two years' work and play in the wilds should prove of any interest, or help even in a small way to call attention to the beautiful and valuable country which we possess on the Equator, I shall feel more than compensated for the trouble I have taken in writing it.

I am much indebted to the Hon. Mrs. Cyril Ward, Sir Guilford Molesworth, K.C.I.E., Mr. T. J. Spooner and Mr C. Rawson for their kindness in allowing me to reproduce photographs taken by them. My warmest thanks are also due to that veteran pioneer of Africa, Mr. F. C. Selous, for giving my little book so kindly an introduction to the public as is provided by the '* Foreword " which he has been good enough to write.

J. H. P.

August^ 1907.

Foreword

It was some seven or eight years ago that 1 first read, In the pages of The Field newspaper, a brief account written by Col. J. H. Patterson, then an engineer engaged on the construction of the Uganda Railway, of the Tsavo man-eating lions.

My own long experience of African hunting told me at once that every word in this thrilling narrative was absolutely true. Nay more : I knew that the author had told his story in a most modest manner, laying but little stress on the dangers he had run when sitting up at nights to try and compass the death of the terrible man-eaters, especially on that one occasion when whilst watching from a very light scaffolding, supported only by four rickety poles, he was himself stalked by one of the dread beasts. Fortunately he did not lose his nerve, and sue-

X FOREWORD

ceeded in shooting the lion, just when it was on the point of springing upon him. But had this Hon approached him from behind, I think it would probably have added Col. Patterson to its long list of victims, for in my own experience I have known of three instances of men having been pulled from trees or huts built on platforms at a greater height from the ground than the crazy structure on which Col. Patterson was watching on that night of terrors.

From the time of Herodotus until to-day, lion stories innumerable have been told and written. I have put some on record myself. But no lion story 1 have ever heard or read equals in its long-sustained and dramatic interest the story of the Tsavo man-eaters as told by Col. Patterson. A lion story is usually a tale of adventures, often very terrible and pathetic, which occupied but a few hours of one night ; but the tale of the Tsavo man-eaters is an epic of terrible tragedies spread out over several months, and only at last brought to an end by the resource and determination of one man.

It was some years after I read the first account published of the Tsavo man-eaters that I made the acquaintance of President Roosevelt. I told him all I remembered about it, and he was so deeply interested in the story — as he is in all true stories of the nature and character-

FOREWORD xi

istics of wild animals — that he begged me to send him the short printed account as published in The Field, This I did ; and it was only in the last letter I received from him that, referring to this story, President Roosevelt wrote : "I think that the incident of the Uganda man-eating lions, described in those two articles you sent me, is the most remarkable account of which we have any record. It is a great pity that it should not be preserved in permanent form." Well, I am now glad to think that it will be preserved in permanent form ; and I venture to assure Col. Patterson that President Roosevelt will be amongst the most interested readers of his book.

It is probable that the chapters recounting the story of the Tsavo man-eating lions will be found more absorbing than the other portions of Col. Patterson's book ; but I think that most of his readers will agree with me that the whole volume is full of interest and information. The account given by Col. Patterson of how he overcame all the difficulties which confronted him in building a strong and permanent railway bridge across the Tsavo river makes excellent reading ; whilst the courage he displayed in attacking, single - handed, lions, rhinoceroses and other dangerous animals was surpassed by the pluck, tact and determination he showed in quelling

Xll

FOREWORD the formidable mutiny which once broke out amongst his native Indian workers.

Finally, let me say that I have spent the best part of two nights reading the proof-sheets of Col. Patterson's book, and I can assure him that the time passed like magic. My interest was held from the first page to the last, for I felt that every word I read was true.

F. C SELOUS,

WoRPLESDON, Surrey.

Septejnber i8, 1907.

Chapter I Page

MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO I

CHAPTER H

THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 20

CHAPTER HI

THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON 29

CHAPTER IV

THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE 4I

CHAPTER V

TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN 50

CHAPTER VI

THE REIGN OF TERROR 61

CHAPTER VII

THE DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE 75

CHAPTER VIII

THE DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER 84 xiv CONTENTS

CHAPTER IX

PAGE

THE DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER 95

CHAPTER X

THE COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE Io8

CHAPTER XI

THE SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES ....... II9

CHAPTER XI!

A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO o . , . 133

CHAPTER XIII

A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT ...-..,... 145

CHAPTER XIV

THE FINDING OF THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 1 55

CHAPTER XV

UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS 168

CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER XVII

AN INFURIATED RHINO 182

CHAPTER XVIII

LIONS ON THE ATHI PLAINS ......,..,.„ c = 1 93

CHAPTER XIX

THE STRICKEN CARAVAN ..... 0 , 2IO

CONTENTS . XV

CHAPTER XX

PAGE

A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 221

CHAPTER XXI

THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 231

CHAPTER XXII

HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE 247

CHAPTER XXIII

A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT 264

CHAPTER XXIV

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR 273

CHAPTER XXV

A MAN-EATER IN A RAILWAY CARRIAGE „ , 286

CHAPTER XXVI

WORK AT NAIROBI = . . , o . . c . 293

CHAPTER XXVII

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND 30O

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Heads of Eight Lions shot by the Author in British East

Africa Frontispiece

Mombasa, from the Harbour i

The Native Quarter, Mombasa 2

"Well-wooded hills and slopes of the mainland" '3

Vasco da Gama Street and Pillar 5

*'The best way to get there . . . was hy gharri'''' 6

•' I pitched my tent under some shady palms" 7

^' Jesus Fort" 9

" Kilindini is .... on the opposite side of the island" ... 10

" The Place of Deep Waters " 11

" A lucky shot brought down the huge bird " 14

^' I slept that night in a little palm hut " 15

^' This interminable nyika " 17

" The river crossed by means of a temporary bridge " ... 18

Women of Uganda 19

The Tent from which jemadar Ungan Singh was carried off 23

" My own tent was pitched in an open clearing ",.... 29

" We shared a hut of palm leaves and boughs " 30

" The camps of the workmen had also been surrounded by

thorn fences" 31

" Railhead Camp, with its two or three thousand workmen" 33 "The two v/ounded coolies were left where they lay, a piece

of torn tent having fallen over them " 35

"A luncheon served in the wilds, with occasionally a friend

to share it " 45

b

XVlll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

*■ It very soon became a great pet ' 46

" Heera Singh made a wild spring into the water to get

clear of the falling stone '' 47

" The door which was to admit the lion '' 62

"When the trap was ready, I pitched a tent over it'"' . . . . 64 " They found him stuck fast in the bushes of the boina " . . 70

" Perched on the top of water-tanks " 'j'^

" I took up my position in a crib made of sleepers" .... 'j'J Whitehead on a Trolley at the exact spot where the Lion

jumped upon him 79

Abdullah and his two Wives 80

A party of Wa Jamousi 83

" His length from tip of nose to tip of tail was nine feet

eight inches " 92

Head of the first Man-Eater 93

" The following evening I took up my position in this same

tree" 100

" He measured nine feet six inches from tip of nose to tip of

tail, and stood three feet eleven and a half inches high " 103

"The bridge over the Tsavo rapidly neared completion" . . 108

" The heavy stones were swung into position " 109

"The girder was run over its exact place" ; . no

"And finally lowered gently into position" 11 1

"Very soon I had the satisfaction of seeing the first train

cross the finished work" 112

The completed Tsavo Bridge 113

One of the Trolley Lines after the P^lood 114

Swahili Caravan Porters 120

"The old caravan road which crossed the Tsavo at a ford" 121

" Such was my cook, Mabruki " 122

"The women . . . wear a long, brightly-coloured cloth" . 123

"The women attire themselves only in a short kilt" .... 125

"We arrived at M'Gogo's capital" 126

" Making jz^^w^^ in the hollowed-out stump of a tree" . , . 127

Wa Taita Men J 29

M'Kamba Woman 131

" Until it joins the Athi River" 136

"The banks of the Sabaki are lined with trees "' 138

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xix

PAGE

" I caught sight of a fine waterbuck and successfully bowled

him over" 146

" A young one was lying down quite close to me" 147

A Crocodile on the Sabaki i53

" Beyond all doubt, the man-eaters' den ! " 158

" Watch the animals come down to drink " i6r

*' The antelope swinging by his feet " . 165

Hippo Head 167

" Slaves chained neck to neck as was the custom" .... 174

Hospital Tent at Voi where Mrs. O'Hara rested 178

In the Bazaar at Kampala t8i

"The great Athi Plains" 182

" First the earth surface has to be prepared " 184

" Cuttings have to be made and hollows banked up" ... 185

"Another gang drops the rails in their places " 187

" It never moved again" 190

" The trophy was well worth the pains I had taken to add

it to my collection" 191

Jackson's Hartebeeste and Zebra 194

Waterbuck 195

" Fortunately the brute fell dead after this final effort ' » . . 201

" We managed to bring them in triumph to the camp " . . 214 " I got near enough for a safe shot, which bowled the

antelope over stone-dead" 218

Wart-hog 220

"A successful snapshot of an impala just after it had been

shot " 228

A Masai Chief 232

Masai Woman 234

Masai Girls .... 235

Masai Women 237

N'derobbo Boy 239

N'derobbo Boy, with Collabus Monkey 240

N'derobbo Girl 241

Wa Kikuyu 243

Wa Wikuyu 244

"The women of the Wa Kikuyu carry the heavy loads" . . 245

XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PACK

" Spooner's plucky servant, Imam Din" 281

A Collection of Trophies 285

'"He was kept on view for several days, and then shot" , . 291

Impala 292

" I took a photograph of him standing beside his fine trophy " 295

" Succeeded in finishing him off without further trouble" . . 297

Steamer unloading at Kisumu, on Lake Victoria Nyanza . . 299

The Grand Falls, Tana River 300

Shimone, "The Place of Falling Water" (Eldama Ravine) 301

Oryx 302

Roan Antelope 303

* An excellent, cheery fellow .... named Landaalu "... 304

Crossing a Stream on the Cook's Box 305

Crossing the Angarua River 307

Reedbuck 309

The New Eland — T. oryx pattersonianus 317

Thomson's Gazelle 321

War Canoe on Lake Victoria Nyanza, near the Ripon Falls 325

Preparing Breakfast in Camp 326

View in the Kenya Province 331

"A flying visit in a rickshaw to Kampala" 332

" Clad in long flowing cotton garments " 333

Jinja 334

'' Rushing over the Ripon Falls" 335

"The mighty river stretching away to the north amid

enchanting scenery*" 337

Wa Kikuyu Warriors 346

Map of British East Africa 347

Facsimile of address presented to the author on his

departure from East Africa in 1899 348-351

MOMBASA, FROM THE HARBOUR.

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAPTER I

It was towards noon on March i, 1898, that I first found myself entering" the narrow and somewhat dangerous harbour of Mombasa, on the east coast of Africa. The town Hes on an island of the same name, separated from the mainland only by a very narrow channel, which forms the harbour ; and as our vessel steamed slowly in, close under the quaint old Portuguese fortress built over three hundred years ago, I was much struck with the strange beauty of the view which

£ B gradually opened out before me. Contrary to my anticipation, everything looked fresh and green, and an oriental glamour of enchantment seemed to hanir over the island. The old

THE NATIVE QUARTER, MOMBASA.

town was bathed in brilliant sunshine and reflected itself lazily on the motionless sea ; its flat roofs and dazzlingly white walls peeped out dreamily between waving palms and lofty cocoanuts, huge baobabs and spreading mango trees ; and the darker background of well-wooded hills and slopes on the mainland formed a very efl"ective

I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 3

setting" to a beautiful and, to me, unexpected picture.

The harbour was plentifully sprinkled with Arab dhows, in some of which, I believe, even at the present day, a few slaves are occasionally smuggled off to Persia and Arabia. It has always been a

WELL-WOODED HILLS AND SLOPES ON THE MAINLAND.

matter of o^reat wonder to me how the navlo^ators of these little vessels find their way from port to port, as they do, without the aid of either compass or sextant, and how they manage to weather the terrible storms that at certain seasons of the year suddenly visit eastern seas. I remember once coming across a dhow becalmed in the middle of

B 2 the Indian Ocean, and Its crew making signals of distress, our captain slowed down to investigate. There were four men on board, all nearly dead from thirst ; they had been without drink of any kind for several days and had completely lost their bearings. After giving them some casks of water, we directed them to Muscat (the port they wished to make), and our vessel resumed its journey, leaving them still becalmed In the midst of that glassy sea. Whether they managed to reach their destination I never knew.

As our steamer made its way to Its anchorage, the romantic surroundings of the harbour of Mombasa conjured up visions of stirring adventures of the past, and recalled to my mind the many tales of reckless doings of pirates and slavers, which as a boy It had been my delight to read. I remembered that It was at this very place that In 1498 the great Vasco da Gama nearly lost his ship and life through the treachery of his Arab pilot, who plotted to wreck the vessel on the reef which bars more than half the entrance to the harbour. Luckily, this nefarious design was discovered in time, and the bold navigator promptly hanged the pilot, and would also have sacked the town but for the timely submission and apologies of the Sultan. In the principal street of Mombasa — appropriately called Vasco da Gama Street — there still stands a curiouslyshaped pillar which Is said to have been erected

I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 5

by this great seaman in commemoration of his visit.

Scarcely had the anchor been dropped, when, as if by magic, our vessel was surrounded by a fleet of small boats and " dug-outs " manned by crowds of shouting and gesticulating natives. After a short

VASCO DA GAM A STREET AND PILLAR.

fight between some rival Swahili boatmen for my luggage and person, I found myself being vigorously rowed to the foot of the landing steps by the bahareen (sailors) who had been successful in the encounter. Now, my object in coming out to East Africa at this time was to take up a position to which I had been appointed by the Foreign Office on the construction staft" of the Uganda Railway. As soon as I landed, therefore, I enquired from one of the Customs officials where the headquarters of the railway were to be found, and was told that they were at a place called Kilindini,

'•'the best way to get there . . . WAS BY gharri.

some three miles away, on the other side of the island. The best way to get there, I was further informed, was by gharri, which I found to be a small trolley, having two seats placed back to back under a little canopy and running on narrow rails which are laid through the principal street of the town. Accordingly, I secured one of these

I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 7

vehicles, which are pushed by two strapping Swahili boys, and was soon flying down the track, which once outside the town lay for the most part through dense groves of mango, baobab, banana and palm trees, with here and there brilliantly-

I PITCHED MY TENT UNDER SOME SHADY PALMS.

coloured creepers hanging in luxuriant festoons from the branches.

On arrival at Kilindini, I made my way to the Railway Offices and was informed that I should be stationed inland and should receive further instructions in the course of a day or two. Meanwhile I pitched my tent under some shady palms near the gharri line, and busied myself In exploring the Island and in procuring the stores and the outfit necessary for a lengthy sojourn up-country. The town of Mombasa itself naturally occupied most of my attention. It Is supposed to have been founded about a.d. iooo, but the discovery of ancient Egyptian Idols, and of coins of the early Persian and Chinese dynasties, goes to show that it must at different ages have been settled by people of the very earliest civilisations. Coming to more modern times, It was held on and off from 1505 to 1729 by the Portuguese, a permanent memorial of whose occupation remains in the shape of the grim old fortress, built about 1593 — on the site, It Is believed, of a still older stronghold. These enterprising sea-rovers piously named it "Jesus Fort," and an inscription recording this is still to be seen over the main entrance. The Portuguese occupation of Mombasa was, however, not without its vicissitudes. From March 15, 1696, for example, the town was besieged for thirty-three consecutive months by a large fleet of Arab dhows, which completely surrounded the island. In spite of plague, treachery and famine, the little garrison held out valiantly in Jesus Fort, to which they had been forced to retire, until December 12, 1698, when the Arabs made a last determined attack and captured the citadel, putting the remnant of the defenders, both men and women, to the sword. It Is pathetic to read that only two days later a large

Portuguese fleet appeared off the harbour, bringing the long-looked-for reinforcements. After this the Portuguese made several attempts to reconquer Mombasa, but were unsuccessful until 1728, when the town was stormed and captured by General

JESUS FORT,'

Sampayo. The Arabs, however, returned the next year in overwhelming numbers, and again drove the Portuguese out ; and although the latter made one more attempt in 1769 to regain their lost supremacy, they did not succeed.

The Arabs, as represented by the Sultan of

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO chap.

Zanzibar, remain In nominal possession of Mombasa to the present day ; but in 1887 Seyid Bargash, the then Sultan of Zanzibar, gave for an annual rental a concession of his mainland terr4- tories to the British East Africa Association, which in 1888 was formed into the Imperial British East Africa Company. In 1895 ^^e Foreign Office took

%i iiiiii"iw

" KILINDINI IS ... ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ISLAND."

over control of the Company's possessions, and a Protectorate was proclaimed ; and ten years later the administration of the country was transferred to the Colonial Office.

The last serious fighting on the Island took place so recently as 1895-6, when a Swahili chief named

II

M'baruk bin Rashed, who had three times previously risen in rebelHon against the Sultan of Zanzibar, attempted to defy the British and to throw off their yoke. He was defeated on several occasions, however, and was finally forced to flee

THE PLACE OF DEEP WATERS.

southwards into German territory. Altogether, Mombasa has in the past well deserved its native name of Kisiwa JVFvita, or *' Isle of War" ; but under the settled rule now obtaining, it is rapidly becoming a thriving and prosperous town, and as the port of entry for Uganda, it does a large forwarding- trade with the interior and has several excellent stores where almost anything, from a needle to an anchor, may readily be obtained.

Kilindini is, as I have said, on the opposite side of the island, and as its name — " the place of deep waters " — implies, has a much finer harbour than that possessed by Mombasa. The channel between the island and the mainland is here capable of giving commodious and safe anchorage to the very largest vessels, and as the jetty is directly connected with the Uganda Railway, Kilindini has now really become the principal port, being always used by the liners and heavier vessels.

I had spent nearly a week in Mombasa, and was becoming very anxious to get my marching orders, when one morning I was delighted to receive an official letter instructing me to proceed to Tsavo, about one hundred and thirty-two miles from the coast, and to take charge of the construction of the section of the line at that place, which had just then been reached by railhead. I accordingly started at daylight next morning in a special train with Mr. Anderson, the Superintendent of Works, and Dr. McCulloch, the principal Medical Officer ; and as the country was in every way new to me, I found the journey a most interesting one.

The island of Mombasa is separated from the mainland by the Strait of Macupa, and the railway crosses this by a bridge about three-quarters of a mile long, called the Salisbury Bridge, in honour of

I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 13

the great Minister for Foreign Affairs under whose direction the Uganda Railway scheme was undertaken. For tv;enty miles after reaching the mainland, our train wound steadily upwards through beautifully wooded, park-like country, and on looking back out of the carriage windows we could every now and again obtain' lovely views of Mombasa and Klllndlnl, while beyond these the Indian Ocean sparkled In the glorious sunshine as far as the eye could see. The summit of the Rabai Hills having been reached, we entered on the expanse of the Taru Desert, a wilderness covered with poor scrub and stunted trees, and carpeted in the dry season with a layer of fine red dust. This dust Is of a most penetrating character, and finds Its way Into everything In the carriage as the train passes along. From here onward game Is more or less plentiful, but the animals are very difficult to see owing to the thick undergrowth In which they hide themselves. We managed, however, to catch sight of a few from the carriage windows, and also noticed some of the natives, the Wa Nylka, or * children of the wilderness."

At Maungu, some eighty miles from the coast, we came to the end of this "desert," but almost the only difference to be noticed In the character of the country was that the colour of the dust had changed. As our train sped onwards through the level uplands we saw a fine ostrich striding along parallel with the line, as if having a race with us.

H

THE MAN-P:aTERS of TSAVO chap.

Dr. McCulloch at once seized his rifle and by a lucky shot brought down the huge bird ; the next and greater difficulty, however, was to secure the prize. For a time the engine-driver took no notice of our signals and shouts, but at last we succeeded In attracting his attention, and the

A LUCKY SHOT BROUGHT DOWN THE HUGE BIRD.

train was shunted back to where the ostrich had fallen. We found it to be an exceptionally fine specimen, and had to exert all our strength to drag it on board the train.

Soon after this we reached Vol, about a hundred miles from the coast, and as this was the most important station on the line that we had yet come to, we made a short halt in order to inspect some construction work which was going on. On resuming our journey, we soon discovered that a pleasant change had occurred in the character of the landscape. From a place called N'dii, the

I SLEPT THAT NIGHT IN A LITTLE PALM HUT.

railw^ay runs for some miles through a beautifully wooded country, which looked all the more inviting after the deadly monotony of the wilderness through which we had just passed. To the south of us could be seen the N'dii range of mountains, the dwelling-place of the Wa Taita people, while on our right rose the rigid brow of the N'dungu Escarpment, which stretches away westwards for scores of miles. Here our journey was slow, as every now and again we stopped to Inspect the permanent works In progress ; but eventually, towards dusk, we arrived at our destination, Tsavo. I slept that night in a little palm hut which had been built by some previous traveller, and which was fortunately unoccupied for the time being. It was rather broken-down and dilapidated, not even possessing a door, and as I lay on my narrow camp bed I could see the stars twinkling through the roof. I little knew then what adventures awaited me in this neighbourhood ; and if I had realised that at that very time two savage brutes were prowling round, seeking whom they might devour, I hardly think I should have slept so peacefully In my rickety shelter.

Next morning I was up betimes, eager to make acquaintance with my new surroundings. My first Impression on coming out of my hut was that I was hemmed In on all sides by a dense growth of impenetrable jungle : and on scrambling to the top of a little hill close at hand, I found that the whole country as far as I could see was covered with low, stunted trees, thick undergrowth and " wait-a-bit " thorns. The only clearing, indeed, appeared to be where the narrow track for the railway had been cut. This interminable nyika, or wilderness of whitish and leafless dwarf trees, presented a ghastly and sun-stricken appearance ; and here and there a ridge of dark-red heat-bHstered rock jutted out above the jungle, and added by its rugged barrenness to the dreariness of the picture. Away to the north-east stretched the unbroken line of the N'dungu Escarpment, while far off to the south I could just catch a glimpse of the snow capped top of towering Kilima N jaro.

''this interminable nyika.^^

The one redeeming feature of the neighbourhood was the river from which Tsavo takes its name. This is a swiftly-flowing stream, always cool and always running, the latter being an exceptional attribute in this part of East Africa ; and the fringe of lofty green trees along its banks formed a welcome relief to the general monotony of the landscape.

i8

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO chap.

When I had thus obtained a rough idea of the neighbourhood, I returned to my hut, and began in earnest to make preparations for my stay in this out-of-the-way place. The stores were unpacked, and my "boys" pitched my tent in a Httle clearing close to where I had slept the night