Lights and shadows of a sailor life : as exemplified in fifteen years' experience, including the more thrilling events of the U.S. exploring expedition, and reminiscences of an eventful life on the "Mountain Wave"

Front matter

OF

SAILOR LIFE,

AS EXEMPLIFIED IN FIFTEEN YEARS’ EXPERIENCE, INCLUDING THE

Preface

In presenting this work to the public, I deem it unnecessary to enter into any elaborate explanation of its design, or offer an apology for its appearance. I have been pursuing an object which I conceive to be of the highest importance, which is the awakening of the public sympathy to the nature and importance of the claims of seamen ; this, in my estimation, may be best accomplished by a truthful and lucid exhibition of the “lights and shadows of sailor life.” To accomplish the object thus truthfully, a thorough education in the school of experience will be the qualification which the public generally, both learned and unlearned, will regard as most adapted to such a work. At the present day, much interest is already felt in behalf of the sailor, and that interest is still increasing. It is a matter of the first importance that suitable information should be furnished, in order to give a right direction to the efforts that may be employed to elevate the character of seamen. One great truth has long been apparent to my mind, which is, that the condition of the sailor must be improved before his character can be very materially elevated. The gos- 1*

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pel, indeed, can accomplish, either directly or indirectly, all that is expected in moral reform, but it enjoins, with much clearness, the removal of physical as well as moral obstacles.

Of what avail is it that the mariner is induced to attend religious service on the Sabbath, if he mingles with the corrupting society of the brothel the remaining portion of the time 1 Of what avail is it that we go to the sailor shivering on the beach, escaped from the wreck, with religious books ? A dry jacket, or food, would be much more acceptable, while moral efforts might be appropriate and effectual afterward. This great truth has been overlooked until quite recently, when it was embraced by the Seamen’s Friend Society. The officers of that benevolent institution have learned the fact that every step in improving the physical condition of the sailor advances him two steps towards reformation, — first by removing him from his vices and vile companions, and secondly, by inclining him toward virtue by bringing him under the influence of the gospel.

Religion is a work in which the understanding is concerned; no one comes under its influence without a knowledge of it ; no man will apply for pardon and grace, until he understands properly that there is no other hope for him. That part of our Lord’s prayer, “ sanctify them through thy truth, thy word is truth,” is sufficient evidence of the fact that any advancement in the divine life after conversion, will be as much the work of an enlightened understanding, as is the conversion.

The benevolent operations of the day being but a part of religion, must be understandingly engaged in,

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Vll if they are to be auxiliaries to the conversion of the world.

The gospel comes to us in our darkness, a glorious light from heaven ; it reveals the great scheme of salvation, and at once discloses the promises of God to his people, and the means by which those promises are to be fulfilled. The means, then, like the end, are of divine appointment ; hence, any efforts that may be made on the part of Zion to aid in the great gospel victory, will be effectual only as God’s means are employed in the accomplishment of his purposes.

The question very naturally arises, what has the poor, despised, neglected, degraded sailor to do in the spread of the gospel? I appeal to the Bible, — u Because the abundance of the sea shall be converted unto thee , the forces of the gentiles shall come unto thee.” Again, the same view is repeated in that vision in which the prophet was shown the coming glory of Christ: “ Thy sons shall come from far.” u Surely the isles shall wait for me, and the ships of Tarshish first, to bring thy sons from far, their silver and their gold with them, unto the name of the Lord thy God, and to the Holy One of Israel.” In these and other passages, we see that God has designed the sailor to act a very important part in the great conflict between sin and grace. In accordance with this view, Jesus, being about to choose his disciples, went to the sea of Galilee, and selected a small company of weatherbeaten sailors as the means best adapted to the spread of the gospel.

While I would avoid every thing like egotism, and while I would not detract from the intrinsic value of the ordinary missionary labor, yet it is worthy of re-

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mark, that it was to these sailors that Jesus gave his great commission, “ Go ye into all the world and preach the gospel to every creature,55 a commission for which the sailor is most admirably adapted. It becomes a Christian duty, then, to inquire into the condition of these individuals, and it is, partly, to give such information, that these “ Lights and Shadows55 have been penned.

The Journal of the Exploring Expedition, published by the government, being a very expensive work, places its very important and interesting matter beyond the means of the working classes, and the scenes and sketches which I have penned from my journal of that cruise, will be read with interest and profit by such as shall peruse these pages, as they will delineate the manners and customs of different portions of the world, of whose inhabitants little has been written. The description of scenery and “ life on the ocean wave,55 has been truthfully penned, and the author can, with all confidence, appeal to the experience of every sailor for its confirmation. In the recital of the events in which he was personally engaged, any tiling like exaggeration has been carefully avoided ; the facts connected with the death of the generous Underwood and Henry, were too deeply engraven on his body as well as his mind to be easily forgotten, and in a way that renders exaggeration wholly unnecessary. Any remark that he may make upon the officers of the different vessels, he has given only his own personal opinions, free from prejudice, or color of any kind, save truth.

From the nature of their employment, seamen are to some extent isolated, removed from many of the

PREFACE.

IX influences which are adapted, in their tendencies, to refine the more ennobling sentiments of our nature, and to elevate human character. From these circumstances it seems inevitable that they should assume a kind of distinctness , should become a class, yet not a caste , to which the tendency of the past age has been so much inclined. There are peculiarities among all the varied classes and conditions of society, and this diversity constitutes the necessity of an adaptation of reformatory labors to these peculiarities. In this view of the subject, no one, it is presumed, will question the propriety of the issue of books which will be particularly interesting to the sailor as such, or those that will canvass such topics as are interesting and important, not only to seamen but landsmen. Every one who has been at all observant, must have been convinced that there has been, and still is, a manifest deficiency in this respect. It is true there have been many specimens of modern literature — “ falsely so called” — in which the imagery of the ocean has been employed ; and others still, whose plots have been drawn from the incidents of the ocean, and others of a different character, — all of which are designed for the usons of the mountain wave.” Of such works there is an abundance.

It is not true, — as many have supposed, — that seamen can not appreciate laudable efforts, which are made to elevate the class. As among all classes of society, there is a variety here. There are those who are as degraded and brutalized, seemingly, as their native depravity can make them, reveling in the ha„unts of pollution and drunkenness. As accessary,

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however, to this wreck of character, and blasting of early-cherished hopes, the filching, soulless landlord, and the wily dram-seller, have much to account for. The poor, down-trodden sailor has received unnumbered wrongs from their hands, which are still registered against them in letters of fire.

Yet there is a far greater number who are highminded, generous and worthy, who have selected an ocean-life — not from a blind fatality — but have been drawn to it by a love of the grand and wildly sublime, which the ocean ever presents to the lover of nature’s wonders. The scholar is often found here, whose romantic predilections have induced him to leave the halls of science, and study nature in her more imposing forms. There is a grandeur in ocean scenery, a majesty in the strides of a stately ship, as she moves, like “a thing of life,” over the heaving bosom of restless waters ; — an awe in the tempest, when the mighty voice of the Omnipotent is heard in thunder-tones, pealing amid the roar of winds and the dashings of billows, which can divert the man of letters from his more quiet labors.

There are, indeed, many u shadows” in the sailor’s life, yet it has its “ lights” also; and could the profession be elevated in the popular estimation, to the position which its importance demands, and the talent which is already enlisted, be developed, its “lights” would be far more conspicuous. Indeed, when the efficiency of this branch of industry is appreciated ; when the peculiar relations which the marine enterprise sustains to the advancement of civilization, and, above all, to the propagation of the everlasting gospel among the benighted sons of heathen gloom are

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XI felt, the apparent indifference of a portion of Christendom is wholly unaccountable. The sailor is a self-constituted missionary, and must be regarded in pagan climes as the representative of a Christian community. He may bear the olive branch of peace .to such as are blindly bowing before dumb idols, or are prostrating themselves before the ponderous car, to avert the vengeance of imaginary gods, or he will scatter the seeds of corruption, intemperance and death. A neutrality in this matter is scarcely attainable. The records of the past, and the experience of those on mission grounds, furnish sad proofs of this proposition. Those labors have often proved apparently ineffectual, from the counteracting influences of those who have visited missions, and have not been guided by the pure principles of Christianity. The pagan, in his simplicity, has shrunk in horror from the licentiousness of those whom he has regarded as Christians, simply because their residence is in a Christian country.

These considerations will justify the remark made at the onset, that no apology is deemed necessary for any attempts which may be made to elevate this class of our citizens, — the results of whose examples so intimately affect the great interests of humanity.

In order to render this work still more acceptable to the reader, I have secured the services of Mr. J. H. Hanaford, a gentleman who was employed in interesting the readers of the “ Light Ship,” of which paper he was the editor for some time ; his sympathy for, and deep interest and zeal in behalf of the sons of 11 Zebulon his well-established character for morals

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and religion, united with his scientific attainments, admirably qualify him to review this narrative, and prepare it properly- for the press.

It is but justice to add, that the very short time occupied in its publication, with some unfavorable circumstances, wholly beyond my control, have rendered the work less perfect than it otherwise would have been. In consequence of this, some errors would naturally be unavoidable.

BOSTON, SEPTEMBER, 1847.

CLARK’S NARRATIVE

Chapter I

The Departure — Sermon — Ocean Scenery — Flying Fish and Dolphins — Brilliant Phosphoretic Scene, and its cause — The Madeira Islands — Rio de Janeiro — Ascent of the Sugar Loaf.

Farewell to the land of my childhood and youth,

The land of the bible, religion and truth ;

Thou bright land of blessings in every form,

1 leave thee, and fly to the billows and storm.

Ye scenes of true happiness, friendship and home,

Through which, when a boy, I delighted to roam, —

Ye fields of sweet wild-flowers, the woodbine and heath,

I leave ye to grapple with dangers and death.

1838. All things being ready for sea, on the 9th of August dropped down to Hampton roads, preparatory to sailing for the South Pacific Ocean, where we remained for a few days, waiting for a favorable breeze.

The memorable day at length arrived for the longtalked-of Expedition to sail. At half past three o’clock P. M. a signal was made from the Commo- 2 dore’s ship for the squadron to get underway. Accordingly, soon after the capstan was manned, and the anchor “ catted,” and every one seemed anxious to hid adieu to his home, since they had been so long kept in suspense, many in sight of their own “ homes,” without ever having the privilege of visiting their friends.

There have been various changes in this Expedition since its first organization under the command of Thomas Ap Catesby Jones, Esq., and six commanders have been appointed and discharged since Commodore Jones gave it up. And we were now about to take leave of our loved, our native country.

We had not proceeded far, when the wind died away and we were compelled to come to anchor, only a short distance from where we started.

Soon after, however, a breeze springing up, signals were again made for the squadron to get underway, which was immediately done, and all the vessels stood out in company. The breeze lasting but a short time, we made but little progress during the night. In the morning we were in sight of Cape Henry. At eight o’clock the ships were “hove to” and the pilots left, and by them we sent our final “farewells” to our friends on shore. At such a moment, when the last hold on our country is sundered from us, the kinder feelings of the soul are awakened. Our friends become more than ever endeared to us, and every thing connected with them wears an increasing interest. There was a sadness on the countenance of many, and a quivering of the lips.

Home ! Native country ! How dear to the heart. How each cherished remembrances of childhood’s

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scenes, and loved associations of those sunny hours, come rushing up from the past, and steal into the throbbing bosom, as the ties of affection are riven. The intrusive tear moistens the eye, as early fancies flit before us, and wend their silent way down the cheek of youth, — the overflowing of the troubled waters of the soul. Affection gladly would throw her bands around the loved of earth, and draw them nearer and nearer, as the eye catches the last glimpse of boyhood’s home in its faint, indistinct outline, but it is vain. The distant hum of business has died away, and the rippling of the waves, as they murmur across the prow, is heard instead. The towering spires.,, which point upward to the God of the “Sea and the dry land,” have become dim in the distance, and familiar objects have blended in the fast fading view of the distant shore. But the fancies of the past, and endearments of home, must give place to the realities of a life on the “mountain wave.”

The ship, from the gentleness of her motion, seemed less willing than ourselves, to exchange the smooth waters of the Bay and the beautiful landscapes along the shores of the “Old Dominion,” for the troubled bosom and unbroken horizon of the ocean. In a few hours afterwards the shores of our happy country receded from our view, and seemed only as a speck upon the horizon.

At eleven o’clock all hands were called to “muster,” where we had an excellent and appropiate sermon by our Chaplain, Mr. Elliott, who earnestly invoked “ Him whom the winds and waves obey,” to aid us in our arduous undertaking. He spoke feelingly of the dangers of our enterprize, and the inability of human exertions, without the aid of Him. who, when called upon by his affrighted companions, “ Lord save us or we perish,” bade the angry billows cease, and in a moment they were still.

At half past one o’clock, P. M. we were piped down, and at five o’clock again called to muster, when each mess was furnished with a Bible and every man with a Prayer Book.

The sea is a fit place for contemplating the majesty and power of the “ Almighty,” where the air is calm ; where sleepeth the deep waters. What a contrast when comparing the smoothness of the sea yesterday, with the troubled bosom of the mighty deep to-day ! Now the sea is running “ mountains high;” — yesterday it was hushed, and as smooth as a mirror. Through the night, nothing seemed to disturb its peaceful bosom ; but now and then the gleaming of a shark, or some monster of the deep.

Some of our “green-horns” looked truly pitiful. This is nothing like what they fancied in their dreams of a sea-life in their juvenile days, after listening to the yarn of some “ old tar.” This is only a prelude to what may be expected before we accomplish the object of the Expedition. During the day we shipped some very heavy seas, which flooded our decks from stem to stern. During the next day the weather was clear and pleasant, with a strong breeze, sufficient for any ordinary vessel to sail at the rate of ten knots. This breeze we lost however, on account of having to lay to, for the Relief, which vessel is a very dull sailer, and besides, she is loaded as deep as she can swim. The Captain finding that he should be detained if he continued to wait for the Relief, sent or-

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ders for her to make the best of her way to Rio de Janeiro, where the squadron is to rendezvous, previous to doubling Cape Horn.

For some time during the latter part of August, that “ Queen of months ” for an ocean life, the ocean around us was enlivened by immense numbers of flying fish. This is a beautiful animal about six or eight inches in length, and of slender and delicate form. Until now, I had an impression that it received its name from springing into the air for a moment only, and then sinking into its native element ; but for several days, flocks of forty and fifty, and even of a greater number, have risen about our ship, and flown yards before descending again.

When in this situation, a person ignorant of their nature could not distinguish them from birds of the same size. The large transparent fins which they use in flying, have every appearance of wings, and when in a direction opposite to the sun, their whole bodies are of a most dazzling silver white.

But in this case, as well as in that of the dying dolphin, we have been led to commiserate as well as to admire. At most times, when these little creatures take flight, it is only to escape from some devouring enemy in close pursuit.

We have often caught a glimpse of the dolphin darting through the water under them, as they have skimmed along its surface ; and once, after watching with delight the lengthened course of an uncommonly beautiful fish, as time after time it dipped for a moment but scarcely touched the waves before it rose again, and seemed to exert every power to pursue its rapid way, we saw it fall directly into the jaws of some ferocious monster, which, as if doubly ravenous from the chase, leaped partly out of the water to receive it. They seem peculiarly ill-fated ; not unfrequently a flight from their enemies exposes them to the rapacity of others equally destructive, and they become the prey of gulls, cormorants and other sea fowl, hovering over the water for food. In their serial course, they also often come in contact with vessels, and fall helpless captives on their decks.

It is pleasing, after a long seclusion from the society of our fellows, save the few with whom we come in daily contact, during the monotony of a routine of duties peculiar to a squadron like ours, it is pleasing under such circumstances, to greet a brother man. He may be an entire stranger, with whom we can have no cherished reviews of the past ; can gather no gems from the sunny scenes of childhood, — perchance he is from a distant clime, has his local prejudices, his sectional animosities, yet he is a brother sailor, and is greeted with the tokens of friendship.

During the first of September we were favored with fine weather and fair breezes, and were making rapid progress toward the place of our destination. It is under such circumstances that the sailor feels buoyant. He sees no darkening clouds about him, no lightning’s glare, no yawning abyss beneath, ready to engulf him in the depths of ocean’s bed, but his bark moves onward in stately grandeur, a “ thing of life.” He feels a pride, known only to the sailor.

At eleven o’clock, September 9th, all hands were called, when we had a sermon from our Chaplain, from James 5: 6, 12. His discourse was directed principally against profane swearing. Such ser-

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vices effectually call to remembrance scenes of the past and awaken the better feelings of our nature.

In the afternoon, we passed in sight of Pico, one of the Western Islands.

On the following day the lookout from the mast-head reported “ land ho,” which proved to be the Island of Saint Michaels, another of the Western Islands, and on the twelfth we were off Saint Michaels. Saint Michaels is a high and mountainous Island, and at the distance we were from it, has a dreary appearance. But I am told that it is extremely fertile, and produces excellent fruit and wine.

September 4th. This morning we had the first sight of a dolphin, one of the most beautiful of the inhabitants of the sea. The usual length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears but little resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases, &c., and in marine emblems, and armorial bearings, but is very similar to the white salmon trout, found in fresh water lakes. When swimming in the water, its colors appear exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the sides, vary from the hue of burnished steel to that of deep azure and nazarine blue, shading off toward the under part in pea green and light yellow. The dolphin is often taken with a hook and line, but this morning one was struck with a harpoon and brought upon deck. I hastened to witness its colors while dying. I found them to be as truly beautiful as they have been described, consisting of rapid transitions, from the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several shades of silver, to almost a snow white, and then to purple again. The sight, however, was painful from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer. I could hut feel that the gratification of my curiosity was at the expense of its life.

The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared. A large school of boneto was sporting about the ship in company with the dolphin. They are a very active fish and frequently throw themselves several feet out of water.

In a water spout we have had one of those phenomena, characteristic of the region in which we then were. It was at too great a distance to be seen very minutely; the end nearest the ocean was scarcely perceptible, though the agitation of the water under it was quite evident, the upper extremity terminated by a tubular expansion, similar in form to the large end of a trumpet, in a heavy black cloud. The part clearly visible was about three hundred feet in length and the cloud not less than fifteen hundred feet in height.

There was a shower of rain almost immediately afterwards, of the largest drops I ever saw. It was perfectly calm, and the ocean glassy as a mirror, which made the appearance of the rain, as it struck the surface of the water, singularly beautiful, as far as the eye could reach. The whole sea seemed a plain of glass studded with diamonds of the first magnitude.

At ten o’clock at night, the exhibitions of the day were followed by a phosphoretic scene of unrivaled beauty and sublimity. I have often before observed luminous points, like sparks of fire floating here and there in the wake of our vessel ; but now the whole

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ocean was literally bespangled with them, notwithstanding the smoothness of the surface. There was a considerable swell of the sea ; and sparkling as it did on every part as with fire, the mighty heavings of its bosom were indescribably magnificent. It seemed as if the sky had fallen to a level with the ship, and all its stars in ten fold number and brilliancy were rolling about with the undulation of the billows. The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of our vessel appeared kindling to a flame, and the flash of the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illumined every object along the whole course of the ship. By throwing any thing over board a display of light and colors took place, surpassing in beauty and brilliancy the finest exhibition of fireworks. The rudder too, by its motion, created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fishes were distinctly traceable by running lines, showing their rapid course ; while now and then broad gleamings, extending many yards in every direction, made known the movement of some monster of the deep. But minuteness will only weary, without conveying any adequate impression of the scene.

It would have been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among the most sublime scenes which nature herself ever presents. The cause of this phenomenon was long a subject of speculation among men of science, but is now satisfactorily ascertained to be sea animalcules of the luminous tribe, particularly the species Medusa.

Captain A. K. Long, of the ship Relief, took great pains in examining this subject with great minuteness.

The weather is still favorable, and the breeze propitious. At daylight the island of Madeira, just appeared in sight, was looming above the watery horizon. About three o’clock, P. M. we came up with these justly celebrated islands, and I need not attempt a description of the sublime and picturesque scenery, or the rich and highly cultivated hills. At sunset we arrived off the town of Funchal, and came to anchor in Funchal Roads near the town.

Soon after coming to anchor, we received a visit from the American Consul, who frequently visited our ship during our stay.

The Madeira Islands consist of Madeira Parto Santo and the Desert Isles. Madeira, the principal island, is distinguished for its wines, whieh are exported to various parts of the world; its capital is Funchal.

These islands belong to Portugal, and have a population of ninety thousands, including blacks.

After our arrival here, the officers and scientific gentlemen were busily engaged in examining the islands, and making observations, and measuring the height of some of the loftiest mountains. The weather was fine and beautiful, and the country in every direction was clothed in green verdure. Our ship was furnished with a plenty of excellent beef and vegetables, and also fruit in abundance. I suppose there is no place in the known world which produces finer beef, vegetables and fruit, than this island.

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The island is under the government of Portugal, and the natives seem to be quite loyal to the present Queen Donna Maria. Its capital, Funchal, is a handsome little town, containing some six or eight thousand inhabitants, who seem to he a gay and lively people, and remarkably hospitable. Like other Spanish and Portuguese towns, it has its number of churches and convents, which were mostly illuminated the first part of the night.

At two o’clock, P. M., on the following day, we weighed anchor, and bid adieu to this truly beautiful island — squadron in company.

After leaving Madeira, we had delightful weather with fine cool breezes. At four o’clock, P. M, we passed the Island Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd Islands, and at midnight lay to off the Island of San Jago, the principal Island of the Cape de Yerds.

October 6th, we were off the island. At nine o’clock, A. M., came to anchor off the town of Porto Praya, and soon after received a visit from Mr. Gardener, American Consul.

Cape De Yerd Islands, discovered in 1460 by the Portuguese and still subject to the crown of Portugal, form a group of about twenty in number, including those of a smaller size, which are unimportant. They formerly contained a population of about twenty thousands, but at present are very sparsely inhabited. They are all more or less mountainous, with scarcely enough vegetation to support themselves and cattle. The people, isolated as they were from the world, with most of the channels of communication cut off between them and the other countries, are dependent chiefly for whatever sustenance their own islands do not afford, upon vessels casually stopping at them. The trade is generally carried on by barter. From the time of their first discovery they have been subject at intervals to severe drought and famine. The rain of heaven is often withheld for several years in succession, at which time all the sources of fertility are dried up, and the people and their cattle perish for the want of food and water. It is not surprising to learn that so many have perished from famine. The most deadly famine took place in 1832, when one half of the inhabitants lost their lives, and all their cattle died. Large donations were made in New York and other parts of the United States for their relief, with which provisions were purchased and sent them.