Life and society in America

Front matter

THE HAPPY BRIDEGROOM.

LIFE A¥r SOCIETY

IN

Contents

CHAPTER PA'?K

I. OVER THE SEA - 1

ir. THE "EMPIRE CITY" - 15

Chapter I. Over The Sea

ONE of my earliest boyhood recollections is the noticing, about the end of each recurrent January, large parti-coloured placards in the outskirts of Cork, announcing, in conspicuous capital letters, the sailing of "The First Spring Ship for Quebec." Then, as now, the superabundant industrial popu lation, whom Dryden characterizes as

" The porcelain clay of human kind,"

were forced to take their labour to a market where it was more in demand, better remunerated, and likely to produce such independence, competence, and comfort, as it were vain to hope for in the "Old Country." Forty years since the exodus from Ireland had only commenced. Subsequently it assumed proportions which threatened to

LIFE AND SOCIETY IN AMERICA.

reduce the population, until the country would be left without hands to till the soil.

What a wonderful revolution has been effected in the construction of steam-vessels since the Great Western and the Sirius sailed from English ports to New York in the Spring of 1838 ? At one time, crossing the Atlantic was attended with much discomfort and no little danger. Conse quently, only the most venturesome and intrepid of the labouring classes undertook the experiment, however tempting the inducements which the New World offered. Even the ships employed were very unsuitable for carrying passengers. The accommodation was of the most wretched kind ; rather there was no proper accommodation at all. The food supplied was stinted in quantity and bad in quality. The supply of water was insufficient. Vessels quitted our harbours without undergoing that careful inspection by Government officers which is now obligatory. Emigrants were crowded into the holds of ships in which they could not stand upright; "stowed away," in fact, like so much human ballast. One shrinks from the thought of the misery engendered by a five or six weeks'

voyage in one of those ill-contrived hulks, affec tedly styled, by interested agents, " fine, fastsailing ships." Not nnfrequently the voyage across, what our American cousins disparagingly call " The Big Ferry," used to occupy from two to three months, owing to stress of weather and the inability of creaky and leaky old vessels to cope with the hostile elements.

But, as I have premised, a marvellous change for the better has long been effected. To private enterprise and commercial competition we are indebted for the magnificent fleets of steam-ships which cross and re-cross more than three thousand miles of ocean during all seasons of the year. The great Lines, such as the " Cunard," the "Inman," the ''National," the "Anchor," the "White Star," the " American," the "North German Lloyd," and the "Allan," seem to vie with each other in the construction of stately vessels, remarkable not simply for their size, but for their swiftness. For some time past these several Corporations, finding their old screw and paddle steamers not quite up to the mark, have been building and launching ships of vaster

1—2

LIFE AND SOCIETY IN AMERICA.

dimensions and more scientific construction. Hence the greatest safety and comfort are afforded both to saloon and steerage passengers. Perhaps one of the finest and noblest vessels is the Egypt, belonging to the "National" fleet, which made her first run from Queenstown to New York in nine and a half days. There are several sister ships, built (with the exception of the decorative por tions) entirely of iron and steel, combining great strength, power, and beauty of model. These vessels are divided into water-tight and fire proof compartments. They also possess other advantages which it is unnecessary to mention. Suffice it to say that they are the largest in the Atlantic Service.

Crossing the Atlantic at the present day is attended with scarcely any danger, and but little, if any, positive discomfort. Saloon passengers especially, must find it pleasant, exhilarating, and health-invigorating :

" O'er the glad waters of the dark-blue sea, Our thoughts as boundless and our souls as free."

Time does not drag its slow length along as slug gishly as a landsman might suppose. The steam-

OVER THE SEA.

ship becomes a veritable floating hotel, wherein voyageurs can make themselves perfectly at home, and find facilities for reasonable enjoyment. They can "eat, drink, and be merry," after the tempo rary sea-sickness has relieved their livers, and restored or refreshed their animal spirits. They can while away their time in divers fashions. They can form little coteries, and, between the hours of meals, can recreate themselves in a variety of ways. They can read, talk, sing, lounge, play at special games, pace the quarter-deck, smoke, or enjoy their glass of wine, as they list. No more suitable place in the world can be found for indulging in a little innocent flirtation, or for tentative courtship, than a steam-vessel. Pas sengers are disposed to be sentimental ; and I have noticed more than once in journeying across tlie Atlantic, the formation of very tender ties between young people ; ties which I trust have resulted in honourable unions and prosperous results. In such case the fortunate couples may well look back with agreeable feelings upon their brief but blissful " life on the ocean wave/'

The learned schoolmaster in Goldsmith's " De-

LIFE AND SOCIETY IX AMERICA.

serted Tillage," made folks wonder " how one small head could carry all he knew.1' I have often wondered how the seemingly small capacity of a single store-room of an Atlantic-going steamer could contain wholesome provisions and luxurious viands sufficient not only to feed, but to feast one thousand persons, all told. Yet everything is done without bustle or confusion, and by com paratively few stewards. So much for system and experience. As a rule, the saloon daily menu is most liberal, no matter how high the wind or how rough the waves. One exceedingly stormy day, when the ship was pitching heavily, so much so that most of the saloon passengers had to betake them selves to their state-rooms, I observed to the Cap tain, who, as usual, presided at the dinner-table :

" What a pity that the cook should have prepared such an elaborate but unnecessary bill of fare as I see before me ! A most recherche dinner, with none to eat it."

" Well," said he, with a smile, " it will be good for somebody ; after a while it will be sent to the steerage. ' Tis a bad wind that blows nobody good/ you know."

OVER TEE SEA.

Perhaps one of the most notable things on board Transatlantic steamers is the uniform order that prevails. I have occasionally crossed the Atlantic in vessels containing from six hundred to eight hundred individuals of the emigrant class, in. addition to, perhaps, sixty saloon passengers, and never witnessed the slightest disorder or disturb ance. This is saying a good deal for the character of the artisans or labourers who seek to better their fortune in a distant land. It holds out fair promise, too, that the emigrants who quit our shores will make worthy denizens of the country of their adoption, whether that country happen to be the Canadian Dominion or the United States. Now and again I have conversed freely with groups of emigrants, and I invariably found them anxious to receive information, and grateful for such being proffered to them. Once, indeed, the President of Washington University and myself essayed to hold nightly meetings of the steerage passengers, whom we would alternately address to some extent. But a few took alarm, foolishly considering that we had a design ultimately to proselytize, notwithstanding that

LIFE AND SOCIETY IN AMERICA.

we sedulously guarded against touching upon theological topics. So, greatly to the grief of many, after one or two experiments, we had to abandon our project.

Crotchety and eccentric people will be encoun tered on board ship as well as on land. They are generally where they should not be, or doing what they should not do. They become " the observed of all observers ;" still they neither heed nor care. Their fellow-passengers laugh at them, chaff them, possibly " cut " them as incorrigible bores. They remain provokingly imperturbable nevertheless, pursuing the peculiar tenor of their wayward way, impervious to the keen shafts of ridicule incessantly hurled against them. Inquisitiveness is most their besetting sin. They ask needless and senseless questions of the officers on duty, with whom it is specially forbidden to hold converse. To employ an in elegant but expressive rhetorical figure, they "poke their noses" everywhere, and unwittingly become the most intrepid of Paul Prys in their intrusiveness.

One of this class, while the steamer was

OVER THE SEA.

passing the Newfoundland Banks, once hastily approached the commander while he was par ticularly occupied, and impertinently inter rogated him :

" Pray tell me, Captain, is it always thus foggy in these parts ?"

The Captain (who was no other than the late respected Commodore of the Cunard Line), ren dered suddenly irascible, sharply retorted :

" How the devil do I know, sir ? I don't live here !"

The thirst for knowledge is all very well in its way ; but it may be carried too far at times, and manifest itself in strange forms and on unseason able occasions. It is possible, I apprehend, for ignorance to be bliss, though folly never can be wise.

In all British steamers plying across the Atlantic a portion of the Church Service is regularly read each Sunday morning by a clergyman, should one happen to be on board ; if not, by the Captain. Sometimes, in addition to the ordinary Prayers and Lessons, a short and suitable discourse is delivered. To these services — which are held in the saloon — the steerage passengers, and as many of the crew as can be spared, are invited ; but attendance is quite optional on the part of all. On every occasion, I have found the congregation not only attentive, but reverent, which is more than I can say for congregations I have witnessed on land.

" Love the sea, but keep on land," says George Herbert. Some people have an innate dread of the sea. In 1841, the witty Canon of St. Paul's, writing to the Countess Grey, observes: "I hear Morpeth is going to America, a resolution which I should decidedly carry into execution, myself if I were not going to heaven." It is not long since I met an old friend — one of the Metro politan Borough Members — who interrogated me respecting my opinion of America. Upon my suggesting that he should take a trip through the States during the long vacation, he. replied, "I would gladly do so, only I so dread the ordeal of sea-sickness."

The first sight of land has a magical effect. It is gratifying to the mind, no less pleasing to the eye and brightens up the animal spirits, which, mayhap, had grown sombre or dull from the monotony of sky and ocean — ocean and sky. What a rush there is to have the first peep at yonder coast, now but dimly seen, as though it were a dense elongated cloud ! With what unflagging interest is it watched, until at length the cloud clears away, and the blue hill-tops in the background are illuminated by the sun's rays. It is satisfactory to think that the perils and dangers of the voyage are nearly passed, and that soon the battle of life will have to be again fought under new conditions and with fairer prospects.

It is time for the steerage passengers to attend a little to their personal appearance, now that the brave vessel is fairly entering the harbour. The top- masts and yards are scraped, the funnel is painted afresh, and the ship is trimmed and touched up, so as to present a smart appearance. The example is followed by its living freight, especially by the emigrants, who put on their Sunday clothes, and tidy themselves as best they are able.

We steam slowly up the river, and finally arrive in port. Now commence the shaking of hands and demonstrative leave-taking ; for friend ships are invariably formed on ship-board, albeit the voyage seldom exceeds ten or eleven days. The saloon passengers at length disembark and scatter, few of them ever to meet again. The im migrants are next conveyed with their baggage to Castle Garden, a large building, formerly an Opera House, wherein the illustrious Jenny Lind made her debut in America. Here every necessary preparation is made for their reception. Each person's name, with his or her destination, is duly registered. Food is supplied at moderate charges ; baths are ready for those who wish to use them ; while all needful advice and assist ance are cheerfully afforded by the Superintendent of the establishment — a kind, good-natured, and zealous official, as I have observed. This is a suitable resting-place for somewhat weary immigrants until they can quietly prosecute their journey.

In this excellent asylum they are protected from those hideous, despicable land-sharks who prowl about the wharves of New York, eagerly seeking whom they may devour. Castle Garden was formerly supported by a passenger tax of one dollar, and forms a bureau of the State, from which emanates an annual report on emigration. The tide of emigration again setting in is truly marvellous, and seems to swell as it rises. There is a stirring passage in the speech delivered in Birmingham during the cotton famine, by Mr. John Bright, M.P. :

" Are you aware," he asked his audience, " of the great fact, that in fifteen years, which is but as yesterday, two million five hundred thousand of your countrymen have found a home in the United States ; that a population equal to eight times the population of this great city — itself equal to no mean kingdom — has emigrated from these shores ? In the United States there has been, as you know, an open door for every man, and millions have entered into it and have found rest."

The Irish emigrants are generally the poorest that leave our shores, and yet few succeed better in America. They may be indolent at home, which I doubt, but I am convinced they are in dustrious abroad. They work with a will, and reap the reward of their labour. One noble trait in their character is that they do not forget the " old folk," nor even those relatives who have been forced to stay behind. .Immense sums of money are annually forwarded from the States to Ire land, in order to bring out fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers, and others connected by family ties. What nationality is remarkable for a like sense of duty, or in whom natural affection is so strong ? None, I unhesitatingly declare.

I have grown so familiar with the Atlantic as almost to " take to it " with the fervour a child clings to its mother. I love to be rocked on the vast ocean, and in proportion as it storms and rages, so does my fondness for it increase. Invariably have I felt intense sympathy with Byron, and have as often repeated his lines when fairly out at sea :

" Once more upon the ocean, yet once more, And the sea bounds beneath me, like a steed That knows its rider. Welcome be its roar."

Chapter II. The " Empire City."

PERHAPS no place in the United States possesses more interest and attraction for a stranger than the "Empire City" of America. This is not owing to the various nationalities which form its population, so much as to the peculiar and everchanging aspects under which it may profitably be seen and studied. New York is a combination of London, Berlin, and Paris ; for notwithstanding the busy buzz of commerce that perpetually rings in one's ears, the Island of Manhattan does not lack the genius of gaiety. As there is little about it thoroughly American, its denizens take pride in being considered cosmopolitan. Here one, hailing from the " Old Country," feels quite at home. Albeit there are more than three thousand miles of ocean lying between him and his native land, yet he finds himself among an English-speaking people, a goodly proportion of whom either belong to, or are descendants of, the old British stock.

The city of New York is laid out in parallelo grams ; most of the streets having numerical names. It is ill-kept and worse governed. But one or two localities are used as fashionable pro menades, namely, the upper or western end of the Broadway, and the Fifth Avenue in its immediate v icinity. The practice of drying clothes on the house-tops greatly detracts from the appear ance of neighbourhoods otherwise respectable. Along the Broadway and in other places, are a number of demoralizing haunts. These, for the most part, are situated in cellars, where drinking and dancing are suffered to go on till an advanced hour in the morning, the attendants being gaudilyattired females of notoriously loose character. If immorality of one kind be encouraged by these detestable purlieus, that of another order is main tained by the multitude of dingy il bar-rooms " with which the commercial capital abounds. Every facility is afforded for tippling; while even in stores that look above suspicion, nay, even bear the stern impress of staid respectability, thirsty souls may find a supply of whatever beverage their appetites crave. Behind a screen to the rear of a first-class grocery or fruiterer's establishment, often lurks the fatal but favourite " bar," the haven of such appearance-studying topers as do not wish their actions seen of men.

New York, in addition to a very select and rigidly exclusive class of citizens, among whom are the old Knickerbocker families, possesses a pretentious aristocracy — persons who have made money either by industry or speculation; possibly, if I said " peculation," it might riot matter much — and those "shoddy" folk, and those who have " struck ile," are by no means deficient in " bounce/'' Their arrogance is generally on a par with their ignorance, while their assumption is provoking. With such the "almighty dollar" is the " be-all and the end-all" of existence; the golden, or rather " green-back " image which their souls so slavishly worship. King Shoddy goes in for display on a magnificent scale. If such conduct disgusts really respectable, soberminded citizens, why should that interfere with his proclivities ? Money is good for nothing if it administers not to his grand master-passion —display. Hence palatial mansions, splendid equipages, extravagant habiliments, profuse en tertainments, and inordinately luxurious living. Indeed, crested carriages and footmen in showy liveries may occasionally be observed. Many who ! cannot trace their pedigree a generation back, still contrive to uphold blazoned coats of arms. What has Brown, Jones, or Robinson to do if desirous of parading the ancient fame of his family patronymic and show the Conservative blood that runs in his veins, but to take up Burke's " Peerage and Baronetage," or " The Landed Gentry of Great Britain " ? If he cannot do so himself he can readily find some one at hand who can do so for him, which amounts to the same thing. At the annual race held a few miles from New York, one may witness such gorgeous "turns-out" as are never, or at best but rarely, to be observed at Ascot. Occasionally, a course of reckless ex penditure entails terrible punishment. Disaster, ruin and remorse ensue. A bitter, trying lesson is for once learnt that is often inefficacious for good, inasmuch as, like experience, it comes too late to be profitable.

In his recent communication to the Times on " American Progress and Production," Mr. George M. Htgginson, of Chicago, paints a fair picture of his countrymen. He observes : " The Americans, when times are reasonably prosperous, are the greatest consumers and the freest spenders in the world. It is even said to our reproach, that the entire French nation, with their commend able habit of economy, could actually live on the food which in this country is annually wasted. Hard times make all the difference in the world .in this matter of expenditure. It is asserted by some, to which I fully assent, that the require ments of the mass of the American people in ordi nary times are double those of the same number of any other civilized nation. They are never fully satisfied with what they have, and must be continually acquiring something in the way of conveniences and superfluities. When an 'economy craze ' comes upon them, as it did during the five years following the panic, and they settle down more closely to the necessaries of life, the

2—2 shrinkage in the general volume of business in the country is simply enormous, every branch of trade is borne down and oppressed, and it is felt the world over." Now, however, that the tide of general prosperity has set in once more, the " economy craze " is being abandoned, and people are returning to their old habits and to the indulgence of a taste for vulgar ostentation.

The attempt of the fashionable New Yorkers to imitate the French in everything would be pitiable if it were not despicable. But this affecta tion is simply a rude burlesque of the reality. The slavish imitators cannot approach the ideal they set before themselves, for such ideal is too high, so that they cannot attain unto it. Nature has not gifted them with the grace, the genius, or the mobility of the admired foreigners. Accord ingly they but caricature what they would fain resemble. One grand passion of the W7ell-to-do Manhattanite consists in excessive love of dress ; because all articles of apparel are high in price, some fabulously so. People " dress," not only for balls, parties, concerts, theatres, but likewise for the streets. The Broadway becomes brilliant every fine afternoon. Ladies attired in rich and radiant costumes perambulate up and down a limited range of this great thoroughfare, some times accompanied by gentlemen, in their way as " loudly " attired as the sex whose natural weak ness it is to show themselves off to the best advantage. These obviously dress for effect, and, so far, are but true to their womanly instincts. They know full well that they go forth with no other or higher object than to be seen and spoken of. They are conscious that not only will they be thoroughly surveyed, scrutinised, and criticised by a host of idlers, whose chief occupation lies in gambling, smoking, and drinking, but that at least one fashionable hebdomadal print will duly come out with an elaborate account of their principal garments, after the manner of the most consummate costumier; special correspondents, whose souls, maybe, soar no higher than a lady's headgear, being permanently engaged for this delicate and intricate delineation. I must needs surprise my lady-readers when I mention that no American woman of ton, desirous of keeping up the rules of street etiquette de rigueur, but will hesitate before she appears abroad twice in the same costume.

An English person can scarcely form an idea of the cost attending this over-dressing. It is the expenditure it entails that renders the practice so immoral and condemnatory. A middle-class family in this country could live well upon the sum necessary to rig an American belle efficiently. I do not include digital ornaments, although no New York woman, be she dame or spinster, considers herself properly " adjusted," unless she has got half-a-dozen diamond rings sparkling on her tiny, tapering fingers. I am acquainted with a literary, childless lady, whose husband every year invariably presents her with a pledge of love, in the form of a diamond ring.

A propos of dress, the United States Treasury for some time past has been defrauded by the systematic undervaluations of silks and velvets at the several ports of entry. Hence it was found necessary by the Government to despatch Treasury Agents to foreign markets in order to discredit the sworn statements of respectable firms. This precautionary measure is considered calculated to augment the valuation, and so render the duties more heavy,

Fashion reigns supreme in this Transatlantic miniature Paris. Some time since the number of prematurely grey fair ones excited special attention. Their hair is neither powdered nor frosted, but is actually grey. A chemical process, it appears, is resorted to, which effectually pro duces the unnatural change. Blonde, golden, and raven tresses have become unfashionable. Even young girls who possess dark and auburn hair are running crazy to have their heads " bleached." Surely Folly cannot much further go. So universal has the silly love of display become, that it is by no means an unusual occur rence for wives and daughters to entail embarrass ment upon their husbands and fathers, in the effort to uphold a stylish appearance, solely in the matter of dress. A degrading rivalry with regard to their " get-up " appears to exist between the young men and women of the period. This emu lation is hateful, and at once disgusts observant strangers. One sex is quite as self-asserting and as covetous of public admiration as the other.

24 LIFE AND SOCIETY IN AMEKICA.

" Tall talk " and bumptious mannerism go hand in hand with " loud " habiliments and affected gait. Neither maiden modesty nor gentlemanlike deportment are qualities congenial to the social atmosphere which pre-eminently distinguishes New York City.

The felicity of domestic life, as we in England understand it, is almost unknown in this " go-ahead " centre of commerce. The people live much out of doors, not relishing the tame mono tony and dull stillness of home. There are special red-letter days, it is true, in their calendar, when social gatherings occur ; but these are not so numerous as they have been a few years ago. The nominal heads of families, when their day's work is done, betake themselves to their comfort able clubs, where they read the papers, " liquor," and indulge in games of hazard. Materfamilias receives her special visitors at home. .And so do the female "olive branches" when they have reached the age of womanhood. Each has her familiar male friend or suitor. Indeed, it is not uncommon for braces of courtships to be going on, in adjoining "parlours," one suitor being blissfully unconscious of the other's contiguity. Of course, the sisters keep their own counsel, being only mindful of what concerns themselves individually. Young ladies usurp an excessive licence — excessive, that is, measured by the rigorous standard of English etiquette. And such is readily accorded to them. I have heard of young and eligible gentlemen paying their addresses to the cherished objects of their affection regularly for months together, without having once encountered the venerable parents of their fair charmers. If you are even but slightly acquainted with a lady, she will esteem it a compliment by your taking her for a drive or to a theatre. American damsels know nothing of our Old- World demureness. If they did, they would hate it from their hearts. They will drink champagne with you, crack jokes with you, gossip with you, smoke cigarettes with you? nay, even flirt a bit with you ; but they will not marry you, save upon the cold, careful considera tion of how you stand with your banker. This may seem very horrid; and so it is. Yet it is possible to err the other way, and to " marry in haste " only to " repent at leisure."

-6 LIFE AXL) SOCIETY IN AMERICA.

The New York Idle is not of a " gushing " tempe rament. Neither is she remarkable for an overflow of sentiment. If she be pert or "smart," she is practical to boot. She can " tell a hawk from a hand-saw. " With the innate instinct of her sex, she naturally looks forward to the acquisition of a husband. This desire, however, she does not suffer to disconcert her frigid composure. When the right opportunity occurs, she courts calmly and coldly. She is seldom or never " demonstra tive ;" she is too wily for that. Her beau she regards somewhat with the like emotion that she does a piece of fancy furniture. She is divested of all romance ; in fine, has no experi mental idea of its meaning. She takes quite a business view of the marital relationship, talks glibly about " real estate," and discourses on the increased cost of housekeeping, with provoking naivete. Perhaps, after all, there is not much risk to run in the choice of a partner — I will not say for life— such legal facilities abound in the States for untying the Gordian Knot — or what was once supposed to be equally as secure — thereby readily releasing from their vows, those who through caprice, interest, or discretion, hastily entered into the same. Others, again, may not scruple to rush to Hymen's altar, inasmuch as they possess a consciousness of their ability to rule, if Dot subdue, their spouses. Each fair one of this class may exclaim, upon weighing the ordeal of matri mony, in the language of an old. British poet :

" O welcome easy yoke, sweet bondage come,

I seek not from thy toils for to bo shielded ; But I am well content to be o'ercome,

Since that I must command when I have yielded."

The facilities in the United States for obtaining •divorces are considerable. In New York, however, the like facilities do not obtain. It is considered a legal marriage should a man consort with a woman, live in the same house, or hotel, and pay her bills. Strange cases occasionally come before the Courts. Not long since a married lady brought a suit against a spinster for having estranged her husband's affections, claiming twenty thousand dollars damages. Again, a young lady who had been deceived by a mar ried man, sued for a like sum in compensation for the injury sustained as regards her peace and prospects.