Life in prairie land

Preface

The following work was commenced with the intention of writing one or two brief sketches descriptive of Life at the West. And until some hundred and fifty pages were written, I never contemplated the possibility of extending them to a volume. At that point, I was so far from having said all I felt, that I very willingly resigned myself to the current of my feelings and wrote on.

To those who read the volume first, and afterward, in some idle moment, turn back to the preface, I need not say that I have been impelled in every step by love of my theme. That will have been apparent enough to them, without any such declaration. I have loved the West, and it still claims my preference over all other portions of the earth. Its magnitude, its fertility, the kindliness of its climate, the variety and excellence of its productions are unrivaled in our own country, if not on the globe.

In these characteristics, it presents itself to my mind in the light of a strong and generous parent, whose arms are spread to extend prow?r

IV PREFACE.

tection, happiness, and life to throngs who seek them from other and less friendly climes. Setting a high value upon these resources, I rejoice to hear of emigration to the country possessing them — not alone because those who go will find there abundance for the supply of their natural wants, but because the influences with which it will address their spiritual natures are purifying, ennobling, and elevating. If nature ever taught a lesson which the endwarfed, debased mind of man could study with profit, it is in these regions of her benignest dispensations. The burden of her teaching here, is too palpable to be wholly rejected by any. Even vulgar minds do not altogether escape its influence. Their perceptions become more vivid, their desires more exalted, their feelings purer, and all their intellectual action more expanded.

The magnificence, freedom, and beauty of the country form, as it were, a common element, in which all varieties of character, education, and prejudice are resolved into simple and harmonious relation. Living near to nature, artificial distinctions lose much of their force. Humanity is valued mainly for its intrinsic worth — not for its appurtenances or outward belongings.

It must not be forgotten, however, that a large class of minds have no adaptation to the

PREFACE.

conditions of life in the West. This is more especially true of my own sex. Very many ladies are so unfortunate as to have had their minds thoroughly distorted from all true and natural modes of action by an artificial and pernicious course of education, or the influence of a false social position. They cannot endure the sudden and complete transition which is forced upon them by emigration to the West. Hence a class may always be found who dislike the country ; who see and feel only its disadvantages ; who endure the self-denial it imposes without enjoying any of the freedom it confers ; who' suffer the loss of artificial luxuries, but never appreciate what is offered in exchange for them. Persons so constituted ought never to entertain for a moment the project of emigration. They destroy their own happiness, and materially diminish that of others. Their discontent and pining are tolerated with much impatience, because those who do not sympathize* with them, see so much to enjoy and so little to endure, that their griefs command little or no respect.

I had no such experience, for I loved the country, and when compelled to return to the crowded and dusty marts of the East, I did so with many and deep regrets; and these still

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VI PREFACE.

linger and mingle largely with the emotions of my life. The writing of these sketches has, therefore, been a labor of love. While engaged upon them, I have lived again in the land of my heart. I have seen the grasses wave, and felt the winds, and listened to the birds, and watched the springing flowers, and exulted in something of the old sense of freedom which these conferred upon me. Visions, prophetic of the glory and greatness which are to be developed here, have dwelt in my mind and exalted it above the narrow personal cares of life.

It is the enjoyment afforded by this kind of emancipation which so endears the Western country to those who have resided in it. It steals upon the heart like what it is, the very witchery of nature ; so that those who are susceptible to it, feel the charm but not the inconvenience through which it is invoked. Such persons delight in the perfection and beauty of the natural, and these suffice them.

After what has been said, it would be superfluous to add that of this latter class I am an humble member ; that no deprivation or suffering incident to the country could sever my attachment to it, and that any portraiture of its life which I should draw would, therefore, abound in gay and cheerful colors. The som-

PREFACE. Vii

bre tints would not dwell in my heart, and I cannot reproduce them. This may make my picture appear to be a partial one, but to me and those who are of like spirit it will be honest. Conscious of the intent to make it so, I shall dismiss it without care in that regard, and leave it to tell its own story of the great and generous land whose name it bears.

E. W. F.

Mount Pleasant, N. Y.

March, 1846.

Contents

Preface Page lii

Chap. I. — Embarkation for the Illinois — Western steamboats in general — The Banner in particular — Her captain and crew — Hooshier bride and bridegroom— A walk in St. Louis — A horrible tale of Lynching 13

Chap. II.— Departure from St. Louus— The first night on board the Banner— The next morning— Speed of our boat— J unction of the Missouri and Mississippi — Landing {U Alton — Unpardonable behavior of the boat under trying circumstances — Disaster to the captain — A specimen of Hooshier indignation 22

Part II

Chap. I. — Birds and animals of Prairie Land — The Gopher ; its curious habits — Prairie fox — Prairie dog . 262

Chap. II.— Prairie w r olves — Red wolf harmless— Grey wolf ferocious — Danger of unarmed travelers in former years — Incidents in later years — Catamount and panther found in " bottom lands" — Grey wolf monarch of the Prairie — Robs the tomb when famished .... 264

Chap. III. — The burning of the Prairie — A thrilling incident on the great northern and southern road, passing near Peoria, Illinois — The country around the spot — Its rare beauty — Account of an early settler here ; his preparation for winter; journey to the nearest settlement for his cow and for winter supplies — Mother and children left alone — Visit from warrior Indians — Sleepless night and foreboding of evil — She watches the Prairie — Faint light in the distance — Prairie on fire — Fearful progress of the flames, and the sublimity of the scene — Her terror and helplessness— Cabin in flames — The instinct of the dog saves the lives of mother and children — They sleep without shelter, and sustain life by a pittance of wild fruit 268

Chap. IV. — Desolation of the scene— A storm conies on — Children and mother hover around the smouldering ruins of the cabin — The mother sinks — Premature birth — The father arrives to hear from his wife the terrible story, to witness her dying hour, and to bury mother and child in one tomb — His bitter grief 276

Chap. V. — Progress of the settlers — Habits — Views of labor — A journev — Love Ring 283

Chap. VI. — The next tavern — Amusing incidents— Court — Lawyers — Dialogue with the driver 289

Chap. VII.— The stage-house— Hostess— The quandary— Indifference to the comforts of life ; how induced 295

Xll CONTENTS.

Chap. VIE.— Dixonville, the Vicksburg of Illinois— Gang of thieves- Incidents there 300

Chap. IX.— Crimes of these men— The landlord— The night. . 305

Chap. X.— Departure — Pleasant ride with the New England farmer — Arrival among friends — Three guests in one cabin — Fun — " Smudging" muskitos— Climate of the west 308

Chap. XI. — The new town in prospect— The eccentric man its founder — His removal to the west 316

Chap. XII. — The inhabitants of the town — The sea captain— Our host — His wife ; a pattern of excellence 321

Chap. XIII. — Our amusements and visits in the neighborhood— Departure 324

Chap. XIV. — Early settlers — Emigrants — The emigrant supplants the Sucker ; the reason — Their different views of life . . . 328

Chap. XV. — Hospitality of the people of the prairie — Their daily food and method of preparing it 331

Chap. XVI. — Morals of the people— Religious sects— The circuit preacher — Styie of preaching — An amusing character — Happy effect of their ministry 334

Chap. XVII.— Excursions— Visit to the burial grounds and council house of the Sauks— Reflections 341

Chap. XVIII.— A tour through the prairie country — Anecdotes and dialogues 347

Chap. XIX.— Tour continued— Amusing incidents . • . 356

Chap. XX.— Tour continued— Dialogues with the settlers . . 362

Chap. XXI.— Cheerless hotel— Tour ended 368

Chap. XXn. — Happy residence at Alton ; its social aspect more like the eastern cities — Beauty of the country 372

Chap. XXHI— The picnic— Delightful close of the day . *. 376

Chap. XXIV. — Return to our former residence — Change in the place — Effect of these changes on the mind — A mournful tale . . 382

Chap. XXV. — A visit to Prairie Lodge — Departure from the west — Story and legends of the Indian — The prospects of this country — Its future greatness 394

LIFE IN THE PRAIRIE LAND.

Chapter I

On the morning of one of the last days of April, 18 — , there was a small party of persons collected in the cabin of a steamboat which had just arrived at St. Louis from Louisville, discussing some topic which seemed to possess for them an engrossing interest. This party consisted of six persons, four ladies and two gentlemen, all evidently travelers. The question was how and when they should prosecute the remainder of their voyage up the principal eastern tributary which the father of waters receives above the Ohio. One of the gentlemen had explored the forest of steamboats which crowded the whaif of this growing city, and reported that there was but one advertised " For the Illinois this evening, without fail," that he could not get on board of her, but thought her appearance extremely unpromising. It was near the close of the week, and as the other gentleman was a clergyman, and he and his party had moreover no dear friends from whom they had been separated seven long years, awaiting their arrival, they concluded to stop till the succeeding one. They accordingly went on shore, and the writer and her companion set out, accompanied by a cartman and sundry trunks, chests, et cet., to find the elegant, fast-sailing, high-pressure boat that was going " up the Illinois this evening, without fail."

B

We had traveled far enough on the western waters already, to have learned that the " this evening" of the bills might possibly be adjourned twenty-four or even thirty-six hours ; but faith is no less requisite on western steamboats than elsewhere, and summoning all ours, we embarked ourselves and our baggage on board the " Banner." We soon found the faith which led us on board was a mere rush-light to that necessary to keep us there. If steamboats had been running on the Illinois at the time when Noah explored the summit of Ararat, one would have affirmed that this very " Banner" was the pioneer of that period. But there is a story to be told, by-and-by, of the first craft of this kind that ever went up the Illinois, and its effect on the settlers, which unfortunately conflicts with this supposition, and drives the antiquarian to a period comparatively modern, as that which gave birth to the Banner. She was not a very large boat, but what she wanted in size was amply compensated in filth. One flight of stairs between the cabins was carpeted, and sundry small patches still remained on the floor of that in which we ate, being too firmly fastened by mingled grease and clay to be easily removed. It is not perhaps generally known, that these articles, properly compounded, make a paste which is quite firm and nearly insoluble in cold water. I mention it for the benefit of the unenlightened, and can bear ample testimony to its virtues, having seen them repeatedly demonstrated in various ways at the west.

The floors were broken, the stairs dilapidated ; there was no linen for the berths, the humcane deck leaked, and its edge was hung with delicate filaments of tar, which the warmth of the sun often drew to an inconvenient length and sometimes quite severed, irrespective of the welfare of those passing beneath. The waste of steam was so great that the wheels effected only about four revolutions a minute, and the boat had a strange habit which I could not then fully comprehend, but which has since been satisfactorily explained by a scientific friend, of occasionally running twice or thrice her length with considerable rapidity, and then suddenly lurching so as throw every thing to the larboard. She averaged five of these spasms a day. There was a one-handed chambermaid on board, a one-eyed cook, and a three-fingered boy to wait at table. But all these imperfections were more than compensated by the exquisite finish and perfection of the captain. He was a soft-voiced, red-haired gentleman, in white silk hose, and French pumps, umbrageous ruffles, and a light satin cravat ; who had strangely enough been transferred from his natural profession of lounging in the Broadway of some western town, to the command of this antediluvian piece of water craft. One could draw his portrait this day, by adding a thatch of red bristles over the mouth, and substituting for the silken hose gaiters of the neatest fit and finish. On deck he wore lemon-colored gloves. The first polish of the laundress was taken off his snowy linen pantaloons when I first saw him, and the plaits of his ruffle had relaxed a little from their precise angles, but the satin cravat, the pumps and hose, were unexceptionable. He walked with a mincing, uneasy gait through the little hall which led to the ladies' cabin, and presented himself before my astonished eyes — one delicate glove drawn on, and the other straightened in his hand- — with a bow that would have graced the drawing-room of St. James.

" It's a ver-ry-warm day, miss." I looked my astonishment, and was about informing him that the gentlemen's cabin was in some other part of the boat, when he laid his white hand on one of the filthy chairs and placing it near the door, seated himself upon it with such an at-home sort of air, looking at the same time so familiar with the filth and disorder about, that I felt convinced he must be a part of the establishment. He must either be the captain or clerk, for the cook is black, and none of the hands would dare undertake a prank of this kind. These thoughts passed rapidlythrough my mind, while the object of them was adjusting his cravat, arranging his hair, and passing his cambric handkerchief slowly over his moist forehead, so that, notwithstanding my deliberation, I replied, before he was entirely prepared to continue the conversation, that so far as the temperature was concerned, I was happy to be able to coincide with him.

" You are going up the Illinois, miss V

" I am delighted with your sagacity, sir," I replied ; " that forms apart of my present expectation."

" Have you ever been up V*

" Never, sir."

" Then you have a delightful trip before you."

" I admire your taste," I replied, glancing at the naked floor, the mutilated chairs, and the greasy berths.

" How far up do you go, miss V

" I am not informed, sir, as to the exact distance."

" You have recently arrived in this region, I presume V*

" 1 have, sir."

" I shall have great pleasure in carrying so intelligible a young lady into the country."

" You flatter me."

" O no, miss, I believe I speak truth."

" Your sagacity, sir is beyond praise."

Before lie had time to reply, a young chap in a red calico shirt, with a face dirtier than I can describe, presented himself at the door and bawled out, " Cappen, please to come kyur* John's dead done with whiskey, the new ingineer's gone off on a spree, and th' ain't nobody to keep the fire up." Hereupon the " cappen" rose and departed, with a pompous solicitation that I would excuse his absence.

He had been gone but a very few moments when the one-handed chambermaid entered, directing in a raw Hooshier girl who had been our fellow passenger from Louisville. Poor child ! even her eyes, trained as they were to rude sights, looked astonished at the poverty and filth about her. I did not wonder that she started with an exclamation of delight and said, " I'm light glad to see you !" though we had never exchanged a word before. She was a tall, dark featured person, with a head of fine black hair that flowed to her feet when the horn comb was withdrawn from it. Her stature was large, her hands and feet proportionably so. She was accompanied by a man whose relation to her had excited a good deal of speculation among us. He was several years her senior ; had lost three of his front teeth, wore a red flannel shirt with a standing collar of the same, supported by a cotton pocket-handkerchief, a fur cap, and the thickest of all possible boots, the tops of which were just invaded by the bottoms of a pair of jean pantaloons. His attentions to his traveling companion were so peculiar that we had been in a delightful state of uncertainty all the way as to what

* It is difficult to convey by any written combination of letters the sound of this word as uttered by the natives of these regions. It is more like yur preceded by h sharply aspirated, than anything else to which 1 can liken it.

this relation could be. They were authoritative enough for those of a father, but then their age forbade the supposition. He might have been an uncle, but she never called him so ; possibly a cousin, but no woman ever so prized the attention of a mere cousin. He could scarcely have been a brother, because there was not the faintest resemblance between them. What then could he be 1 We had examined and rejected every supposition but that of his being her husband ; but nobody would listen to that, because supported by no probabilities. The riddle was turned over to me for solution. It cannot be wondered at, that in such desperate circumstances, I looked upon their entrance as quite a providence, and reciprocated the self-gratulation expressed by my fellow-passenger.

She seated herself on one chair, deposited her bundle on another, and, laughing the while, exclaimed, " This liyur boat ain't set out so smart by a heap as t'other. I 'lowed we shouldn't have such a fine place to be in all the way."

" Why," said I, " had you been told that the boats up the Illinois were so poorly furnished V

"No, I never heern nothin about 'em, but 'tain't in natur to have such carpets, and cheers, and glasses everywhere ; it costs a heap to have 'em. "

Poor child ! the splendors of a comfortable cabin had been to her like the show of regal magnificence to a peasant ; and she could say with poor Hinda, though not in language so sentimental, " I knew, I knew it could not last !"

In a few minutes her companion made his appearance, and announced that he had toted the plunder aboard, and as the boat wa'n't goin to start till after night, he was goin up to see the place. He gave her no invitation to accompany him, nor did the seem to expect it. I did not wish to broach the question at once, so we had a few words on indifferent topics, till Hal (I believe I have forgotten to say that my traveling companion bore that convenient soubriquet) entered and asked me if I would like to stroll an hour or two over the western city.

"Most gladly," I replied; "a wilderness and motion were preferable to this tedious place."

" Have you seen the captain V was his next question.

" Yes, he has paid his respects formally."

" Well, he's a character, isn't he, to finish off such a boat as this 1 but we'll have some fun out of him before we part."

We sallied forth, and my heart really ached as I left the solitary girl sitting there, robbed of all the splendor that had so delighted her senses for the last few days, and alone. She looked sad, and I made an interrogative sign to Hal about asking her to accompany us, with all the oddities of her person and apparel, but he shook his bead. When we were out, I asked why he had refused my request.

" Why," said he, " Mr. Red-flannel may prefer to escort his wife himself, and his preference might be expressed rather strongly if he found me doing it without his consent. We don't know how these Huoshiers will receive any civilities to which they are not accustomed ; and you have heard enough of the modes in which they express their displeasure, to be aware that it is no slight thing to awaken it. You see that clump of trees yonder in the skirt of the city V

" Yes, but what have they to do with the resentment of insult or wrong 1 ?"

" Much. There is a heap of ashes under one of them with which this pleasant wind is playing, as if they were not the most revolting object that could be found on the face of this republic."

" And what, pray, renders them such 1 Your face tells a tale of horror."

" And well it may; for last night, only last night, a man, an unfortunate and guilty one it may be, but still a man, and a citizen of this proud state, was tied to that tree and burned alive !"

" Merciful heaven, it cannot be !"

" Yes, it is even so, and a crowd of people were gathered around to witness the fearful spectacle."

" And was there no heart during all that period of agony to relent and turn the tide of fury into pity and tenderness 1 A word uttered in the spirit of human love must have done it, methinks, and made the most violent ready to bear their suffering victim away in their arms."

"It remained unspoken, then; for the damning fact is recorded on earth as well as in Heaven."

" It surely must blast the peace of every person who had any knowledge of it and did not interpose to prevent it. But what was his offence'? Surely it must have been very aggravated to have awakened such awful vengeance."

" I have not learned the precise circumstances, but rumor (and that from those who approved, or at least suffered the disgraceful event to take place, would, we may suppose, attribute to him his full measure of iniquity) says that he had led a desperate sort of life on the river and in its vicinity. His final offence was stabbing an officer who attempted to arrest him for some recent crime."

" Did the wound produce instant death V

" No. I believe the man is still living, or at least survived some hours. I have understood that he was very much esteemed, and had a family of small children. But these are less than feather weights in the scale that will balance the guilt of his murderers."

" These things are awful truly, and disgraceful too, if we consider the boasted supremacy and efficiency of our laws. I trust the like does not occur so often that the city is not agitated by it."

" No, such extreme cases do not; but this is only an extreme one of a class of public offences that are frequent here. Individual or associated feeling often assumes the prerogative of law in the infliction of lesser punishments."

" Well, it is not perhaps, on reflection, so extraordinary as it seems at first sight to us. We come from a region comparatively old, where time has defined right and interest, and developed more fully the power of law, and established rules of action. Here all is new. Passion may break forth and do its fatal misdeeds, before the slower majesty of law is perceived by the turbulent actors to be sufficient for their purposes. Such scenes must exhibit clearly to every reflecting mind the necessity of framing in our seasons of entire self-possession rules by which we will abide when these have passed away. Fanatical liberalists may term them shackles to restrain our future freedom, but I would that every one of such might stand beside that funeral dust. Before the awful truth taught there, his ravings for large liberty would shrink into their true insignificance."

" But if such lessons are not learned from the pages of history, black with the records of fouler violence than this, how shall the shallow minds which reject them there, imbibe them here 1"

" True : but we are wandering far, and your horrible recital has been so painful that I am less disposed to walk than before I heard it. Let us return."

Chapter II

On reaching the wharf, we found things wearing a very busy appearance. The engine was wheezino- like an asthmatic, some rough-looking men were toting plunder on board, the captain stood upon the guard with both gloves drawn on and buttoned, the hands were moving about as if intent on business, and things began to wear quite the aspect of departure. This was encouraging.

" Will you start to-night, captain V said Hal.

" Certainly, sir," taking out his repeater. " Ring the bell, Jack. That's our first bell ; we shall be off in an hour."

" Really," said I, as we walked up the street, " this affair has some creditable points, its punctuality for instance."

" Yes, you'll learn the value of that when our friends who wait here till Monday pass us halfway up the Illinois."

" Now out upon your croaking, and let's put a cheerful face on the attempt, since we have made it."

The hour extended from one o'clock to six. "We left the wharf just as the sun was setting, and if the reader escapes a common-place description of spires gilded by his last rays, of windows blazing with crimson and golden light, of trees shaking their small foliage in the evening wind, and of the dying hum of the city, stealing fainter and fainter on our ears as the muddy waters parted slowly before our prow, he may thank the Banner and her peerless captain. Either were sufficient to have put to flight the sentimentality of a legion of school-misses, — both together quite routed mine ; not to mention our red-flanneled Hooshier, or his long-haired bride. Everything about me was so thoroughly uncomfortable, that I felt no disposition to rest in any anticipation short of that which pictured the home and faces we so longed to see. Three days of this dismal journeying were reported to lie between us and them, and it required under such circumstances some heroism in man or woman to look forward through their tedious length.

I was fatigued, and requested the chambermaid to prepare my berth as early as possible. She offered me a very disinterested piece of advice in reference to it, which I shall give here for the benefit of such as may be similarly situated, without the like kindness to direct their choice. It was, that I had better abandon the little pen, otherwise state-room, which I had chosen beside the cabin, and take my berth in the latter apartment, " 'Kase," to use her own elegant language, " the bugs ain't a touch in hyur to what they be in yander." Here was another volume of misery opened to my already oppressed senses. Seeing my consternation, she added, " O, you needn't dread 'em so powerful ; I broomed the berths to-day, and shook the 'trasses, so they won't be so mighty bad."

" Make my berth where you think best," I said.

" There ain't no clean sheets, but I can tear off a pair, and you can sleep in 'em, you know, if they ain't hemmed, and I'll give you my pillow."

" No, thank you," I replied; "just tear off a third sheet, and I'll make a pillow-case of it for myself."

At last the berth was prepared, and the vermin made a night of it. They had evidently not been treated for some time, and brought vigorous appetites to my reception. After a contest of four or five hours, I was fain to yield possession to them. Making such limited ablution as the place allowed, I dressed myself and sat down on the stern of the boat to wait the coming day, and speculate on the distance we had made. When the light came up over the heavy forest which clothed the eastern bank of the river, I saw that the waters were still muddy, and knew, therefore, that we could not have passed the mouth of the Missouri. Nine hours' running had brought us twenty -two miles! — a dismal augury for the 240 that yet remained. As the daylight gained, I saw that the current under the eastern shore was dark and clear, and a few minutes after the scattered town of Alton began to peer up from among its beautiful bluffs, just touched with the first tender hue of spring.