Life in Old Virginia: A Description of Virginia More Particularly the Tidewater Section ...

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Foreword

When I am old and feeble,

And cannot work any more,

Then carry ^le back to Old Virginia,

To Old Virginia's shore.

• Thi^ sentiment doubtless was most forcibly expressed in the year 1907, during which there was witnessed an international celebration of the first permanent settlement of the English speaking people upon the American continent.

In aid of this event the Congress of the United States passed an Act approved March 3, 1906, entitled "An Act to provide for celebrating the birth of the American Nation, the first permanent settlement of English speaking people on the Western hemisphere, by the holding of an international naval, marine and military celebration in the vicinity of Jamestown in the waters of Hampton Eoads, in the State of Virginia, to provide for the suitable and permanent Commemoration of said event and to authorize an appropriation in aid thereof and for other purposes.^^

The Act authorized the President of the United States to make public proclamation of this celebration, "inviting foreign nations to participate by the sending of their naval and such representatives of their military organizations as may be proper."

The proclamation fixed the time of the beginning of the celebration on May 13, and ending not later than November 1, 1907.

The purpose of this book is to give a brief history of the efforts of the English to establish permanent settlements in Virginia, and to follow with interesting stories of the life and customs of the people inhabiting particularly that part of

[iH]

IV FOREWORD

Old Virginia, known as the " Tidewater*' section where American civilization began its first struggles for existence amid the forests of a new world whose only occupants then were wild beasts and savage men.

It was the fortune of the writer to pass more than twenty-five years of his life in Eastern Virginia, beginning at the close of that great struggle — ^the War between the States — when there yet existed many of the customs and manners inherited from the forefathers of the quiet and orderly people inhabiting that section. By means of official and social intercourse with all classes of the citizens of Tidewater Virginia the writer is indebted for much of the interesting and amusing data herein submitted to the reader.

The book also contains the names of all the counties with date of formation and a valuable appendix giving a list with short biographical sketches of all the governors of Virginia. This volume is, therefore, intended as a reference book as well as for general reading. Many of the narratives may appear disconnected, but the author wishes it understood that his purpose has been not to give a connected history but to present those facts of Virginia relating especially to the life and customs which are fast disappearing and of which there has been no chronicler.

Table Of Contents

CHAPTER PAQB

I The Domain of Virginia 1

II The Peninsulas of Tidewater Virginia 5

CHAPTER I The Domain of Virginia

The historian Burke wrote: "A correct history of Virginia would be the history of North America itself, a portion of the globe, which enjoying the invaluable privilege of self government, promises to eclipse the glory of Rome and Athens. In this part of the American Continent the first permanent establishment was formed by the English, and it is here we must look for those ancient documents and materials, whose discovery will throw light on the history of the other States."

Virginia, now a South Atlantic State, and one of the original thirteen States to form the Union, was named in honor of Elizabeth, the Virgin Queen, and originally comprised all the territory north of Florida extending "from sea to sea,'* across this continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. What is now left of this immense territory, bearing the honored name of Virginia, lies between the parallels of 36° 31' and 39'' 27' North; and longitude 75" 13' and 83° 37' West, containing a gross area of 42,450 square miles, or 27,168,000 acres; 40,125 square miles of which is land surface, and 2,325 square miles of water surface. It contains 100 counties, which are grouped into six grand divisions, as follows :

(1) Tidewater Virginia; (2) Middle Virginia; (3) Piedmont, Virginia; (4) The Valley of Virginia; (5) The Blue Bidge, and (6) Apalachia.

The first dividing of tiie original territory named Virginia was by James I of England, who on April 10, 1606, granted a charter to the " South Virginia Company " of London, commonly called the " London Company,'^ and to the " North Virginia Company,^^ of Plymouth. When this charter was granted, the Crown of England claimed the whole of North America called ** Virginia,^' between 34** and 45* north latitude under the name of Virginia, by right of discovery. It was conceded that Spain occupied all south of 34* — commonly called Florida — ^and to Prance was conceded all north of 45*. To the London Company was granted the territory between 34* and 41* north latitude, running from ocean to ocean.

The northern limits of Virginia were afterwards curtailed by grants to Lord Baltimore in 1631 and to William Penn in 1681,* and the southern limits by a grant to the Proprietors of the Carolinas by charter in 1663. The next division of Virginia's territory was by deed of cession through her delegates in the Continental Congress, Thomas JefiEerson, Samuel Hardy, Arthur Lee, and James Monroe on March 1, 1784.

When the definite treaty of peace with Great Britain was made, September 3, 1783, the general government had no lands in its possession, though the States had promised to cede their western lands. All the territory included in that treaty was then claimed by some one or other of the several States. It was through the cessions of these several States which claimed the lands that the United States government derived title to what is known as public lands, or ** public domain.'^ Subsequently both the public and national domain was acquired and added to by the general government by purchase, treaty and annexation from France, Spain, Texas, !

and Eussia, during several respective periods. The *' national V

domain *' is the total area, land and water, embraced within \

THB DOMAIN OF VIRGINIA 8

the boundaries of the United States of America. The United States goyermnent also holds dominion over the Sandwich Islands^ some parts of the West Indies^ and the Philippine Islands^ all of which are outside the limits of the main lands of North America.

Prior to 1781, six only of the original thirteen States, viz.. New Hampshire, Ehode Island, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Delaware had their present defined boundaries, while the remaining seven States, claimed some lands to the west The States with inexact boundaries ceded their claims to the lands west of their present limits to the general Qovemment.

The total actual cessions of these seven States, viz: Connecticut, New York, Massachusetts, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, for public domain, were 404,956 square miles, or 259,171,840 acres. Of this amount Virginia ceded 195,431,680 acres, the most valuable gift ever recorded in the history of this nation. Hence her right to the honored title of '* The Mother of States.'*

On March 1, 1784, Virginia, through her delegates in the Continental Congress completed the act of ceding all the territory west of the State of Pennsylvania and northwest of the river Ohio below the forty-first parallel of north latitude, which was hers by charter right. She had an additional claim to the western territory extending north from the forty-first parallel north latitude to Lakes Michigan and Huron, now in Illinois and Michigan, and northward, by reason of conquest and occupancy during the Eevolutionary War by her State troops under General George Eogers Clark.

The present area of the State of Kentucky, 40,400 square miles, was a '' District ** of Virginia, l3ring south of the Ohio Biver, and was allowed to be organized into a State in 1792.

4 LIFE IK OLD VISOINIA

The extent of the territory Virginia gave to the Union was:

The State of Ohio (excepting the Western Reserve and Fire-lands claimed by the State of

Connecticut and lands now in Michigan) 39,364 sq. miles

The State of Indiana 33,809 sq. miles

The State of Illinois 55,414 sq. miles

She also ceded lands claimed hy the State of Connecticut and Massachusetts under their crown charters, as well as by the United States under the definite treaty of peace with Great Britain of 1783 :

In Michigan 56,451 sq. miles

In Wisconsin 53,924 sq. miles

In Minnesota, east of Mississippi River 26,000 sq. miles

Total (disputed and undisputed) cession by Virginia, including Kentucky 305,362 sq. miles

The last slice of territory tahen from Old Virginia was 23,000 square miles, which went to form the State of West Virginia, by an Act of Congress, December 31, 1862, which took effect June 9, 1863.

CHAPTER II The Peninsulas of Tidewater Virginia

The region which the colonists first selected for settlement is known as ** Tidewater Virginia/' It was there that the first great struggle of the white race was begun with the aboriginal inhabitants for the purpose of establishing a permanent abiding home in a new world, many years before the ''Pilgrim Fathers'* first sighted Plymouth Eock. The howling of the wild beasts of the forest, the war whoop of the equally wild man and the solemn hoot of the midnight owl were the only sounds to greet the ears of the first settler in all the vast territory which now comprises this " Glorious Union of States/' The settlement of this region was begun more than two hundred years before the first railroad was built upon this planet. There were then no public highways, but only here and there an Indian trail to point the new comer through the wide wilderness of America.

This region of America is full of the romances and the realities of the experiences of the eariy years of the first permanent settlement of the English speaking people on this Continent. Here it was for the first time that the stroke of the axe of the English laid prostrate the standing giants of the forests of the new worid, and thereby awakened nature from its slumbers and sounded new and alarming echoes throughout the lands christened ''Virginia" by a Virgin Queen of the Old Worid. It was here tiiat the beasts of the wild woods, and the fowls of the air first were shocked to death by the burst of the rifle's discharge, and the superstitious natives thus forced to believe that the new comers were born not of woman but sent armed from the skies with a demon of destruction which no other earthly power possessed. It was there the first thoughts of human freedom were given birth and voice to cheer mankind. The ** cradle of liberty for this Continent ^^ was first tenanted and rocked there to lull the cries of the ** child of f reedom.^^ It was there the first truly representative legislative body of the people assembled on this continent. The first sound of praise and thanksgiving ever uttered in the language of this nation from a house of worship dedicated to God, in the new found world, vibrated the air of Tidewater Virginia, and wafted its way to the throne of Grace, bespeaking the coming of a new race. It was at Jamestown that the first church was built within the territory which later comprised the thirteen original States. It was in that section that Pocahontas, the untutored daughter of a savage chief, though born in the primeval forest, first taught the world that " pity and mercy " are the inherent qualities of womankind, and are not confined to the cultured princesses of the stately palaces of civilization.

It was here that the first slave set foot upon the mainland of this continent. Here it was that the white man first exercised the right of suffrage, and that trial by jury was first granted. The first free school on this continent was started in this section. The first manufactures of this continent were begun here, and were the first of such products sent from the newly found continent to the Old World.

Tidewater Virginia has produced more eminent and illustrious men of America than any other section of the same extent within the boundaries of this nation. Its history has inspired the orator, enthused the soldier, and awakened in the statesman suggestions of wisdom, the benefits of which this nation is now the recipient.

Its soil is sprinkled with the blood of the patriots of the

THE PENINSULAS OF TIDEWATER VIRGINIA 7

•

Bevolution in their successful battling at Yorktown, which cheered a weak people in their mighty struggle for final freedom. The marks of many heroic battles for the perpetuation of the *^ Old Union of States/^ or a disunited nation and a '' New Confederacy/^ are yet in plain view in many parts of this section of Virginia, bearing evidence of the willing sacrifices which all Americans will make in defense of a principle.

Tidewater Virginia begins at a gap in the Atlantic Ocean shores of Virginia, known as the *^ Capes of the Chesapeake/' This gap forms an entrance more than twelve miles in width, and within a short distance inland from its mouth it broadens into a magnificent stream, in some places nearly forty miles wide, and is known as the Chesapeake Bay. The salt waters which flow from the Atlantic Ocean into this big bay, through its capacious mouth, spread out and form long rivers, such as the James, Eappahannock, and Potomac, and shorter streams as the York, Piankatank, Yeocomico, Coan, Wicomico, Nomini and others too numerous to mention, and inlets, creeks, and coves innumerable. The Chesapeake Bay also sends its flood of waters to the shores of Maryland, where they form iimumerable streams throughout that State.

Tidewater Virginia is divided into nine natural subdivisions, or large (primary) peninsulas, each of which contains many small (subordinate) peninsulas, no part of which is elevated more than 150 feet above sea level. The large peninsulas are grouped as follows :

1. "The Eastern Shore Peninsula,^^ consisting of two counties :

Northampton and Accomac. The first was named in honor of the Earl of Northampton; the latter was named after an Indian tribe inhabiting that section. Northampton and Accomac were twice named. The territory composing the Eastern Shore of Virginia was first named Accawmake. Under this name it was made one of the eight original shires

8 LmC IK OLD yiBGINIi.

into which Virginia was divided in 1634^ and continued under the name of Accawmake until 1642^ when it was changed to Northampton. In 1672 Accomac was formed from its upper part, and the lower part retained the name of Northampton. This peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at Cape Charles, and extends along the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay to the Maryland line. It includes the land across to the Atlantic coast.

2. The '* Norfolk Peninsula'^ consisting of two counties: Princess Anne, formed in 1691, from Lower Norfolk,

named in honor of Queen Anne.

Norfolk, formed in 1691, from part of Lower Norfolk, named in honor of Duke of Norfolk.

This peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at tb.e North Carolina line, extending inland around Cape Henry to the mouth of James Eiver.

3. The '* Southside Peninsula '^ containing seven counties : Nansemond was formed in 1639 from Upper Norfolk, and

named Nansimun after an Indian tribe. In 1645 it was changed to Nansemond.

Isle of Wight, one of the original eight shires formed in 1634, and known originally as Warrasquake. In 1637 it was named in honor of a place in England.

Southampton, formed in 1784, from Isle of Wight, named in honor of Earl of Southampton. '

Sussex, farmed in 1753 from Surrey County, named in honor of Lord Sussex.

Surrey, formed in 1652 from James City County, named in honor of Lord Surrey.

Prince George, formed in 1702 from Charles City County, named in honor of Prince George, afterwards King George II.

Chesterfield, formed in 1748, from Henrico, named in honor of P. D. Stanhope, Lord Chesterfield.

This peninsula is situated on the south side of the James

"1,

THE PENINSULAS OF TIDBWATEB VIBGINIA 9

Eiver, beginning at its mouth, and extending to " the falls *' of that river which flows between Chesterfield and Henrico counties.

4. The '* Eichmond/' or ** Chickahominy '^ Peninsula, containing two counties:

Charles City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of Charles the First.

Henrico, one of the original eight shires into which Vir* ginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of Henry, Prince of Wales.

This peninsula is on the north side of the James, and between that river and the Chickahominy. It begins at the mouth of the Chickahominy where that stream empties into the James, and extends to *Uhe falls ^^ of the latter river, which flows between Henrico and Chesterfield counties.

6. The next peninsula is known as ** The Peninsula,*^ containing six counties :

Elizabeth City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of Queen Elizabeth.

Warwick, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, then called Warwick Eiver, changed to Warwick in 1642, named in honor of Warwick in England.

York, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, then called Charles Eiver, changed to York in 1642, named in honor of Duke of York.

James City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of King James I.

New Kent, formed in 1654, from York, named in honor of Kent in England.

Hanover, formed in 1720, from New Kent, named in honor of George I., King of Hanover as well as England.

10 UFB IN OLD yiBQINIA

This peninsula begins at Hampton Boads and Chesapeake Bay, its southern boundary, thence up the James Eiver to mouth of Chickahominy, where this stream empties into the latter river, thence up the northern bank of Chickahominy. Its eastern and northern boundary is the whole length of the south side of York Eiver, thence up the Pamunkey, between that river and Chickahominy.

6. The '^ Gloucester Peninsula,'^ containing three counties : Gloucester, formed in 1651 from a part of York, named in

honor of Duke of Gloucester,

Mathews, formed in 1790, from part of Gloucester, named in honor of Governor Mathews. This county is a peninsula extending into the Chesapeake Bay, and united to the main land by a narrow neck of land. Its lands are so nearly on a dead level that there are no running streams of fresh water in the county. The grist mills are run by wind or tide power.

King and Queen County, formed in 1691, from New Kent, named in honor of King William and Queen Mary.

This peninsula lies between the York and Piankatank Bivers and Chesapeake Bay.

7. The " King WiQiam *^ or " Pamunkey Peninsula,'^ containing two counties:

King William, formed in 1701, from King and Queen, named in honor of William III. It lies between the Pamunkey and Mattaponi Elvers.

Caroline, formed in 1727, in the language of the act of the House of Burgess, "On the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and King William Counties,^' named in honor of Princess Caroline Elizabeth. It lies between the North Anna and Eappahannock Elvers.

8. The *' Middlesex Peninsula,^* containing two counties : Middlesex, formed in 1675, from Lancaster, named in

honor of Middlesex in England.

THE PENINSULAS OF TIDEWATEB VIRGINIA 11

Essex, formed in 1692, from part of " Old Rappahannock '* County, named in honor of Earl of Essex.

Old Eappahannock County was formed in December, 1656, from part of Lancaster County. In the language of the Act of Assembly: "The upper part of Mr. Bennetts land knowne by the name of Naemhock on the south side of the eastermost branch of Moratticock Creeke, on the north side the river be the lowermost bounds of the upper county. The lower county to retaine the name of Lancaster and the upper county to be named Eappahannock."

The territory embraced within what was termed in the act as the " Upper County *^ included Eichmond County, on the north side of Eappahannock Eiver, and Essex County on the south side of same river.

9. The " Northern Neck of Virginia," now containing five counties :

Lancaster, foimed in 1651, from Northumberland, named in honor of Lancaster in England.

Northumberland County, originally called Chickcoun, adjoining Lancaster on the Chesapeake Bay. It originally comprised the whole " Neck of land between Rappahannock and Potomac Eivers."

The date when this county was formed is in doubt ; it certainly contained the first settlement of the whites north of Rappahannock River, within all the territory subsequently named *^ The Northern Neck of Virginia." At what date the first settlement was made there is not known. By an Act of Assembly in June, 1642, it was felony to settle outside of certain limits without permission of the governor and council. It provided "That the Rappahannock River should remain unseated for divers reasons therein contained, notwithstanding it should and might be lawful for all persons to assume grants for lands there,^' etc. A similar act to that of June, 1642 was passed in 1647, but in October, 1648, it was repealed. Hening^s statutes states : " The county was probably formed by the Governor and Council during the recess of the Legislature*' (of 1642 )♦ Notwithstanding the act making it felony to settle " in the north side/' of the Eappahannock Biver, Northumberland County was represented in the General Assembly at James City in the session beginning in November, 1645, by *^ Mr. John Matrum.'' He was the only Burgess from the Northern Neck side of Eappahannock Eiver, and is named as from "Northumberland,'' without the *' County" attached. He probably was accepted from the *^ Plantation of Northumberland." Act of October 12, 1648, is as follows: "That the inhal)itants of Chickcoun, and other parts of the neck of land between the Eappahannock and Potomac Eivers * * * be hereafter called and known by the name of Northumberland, and that they have the power of electing Burgesses for said County," &c. The Act of October, 1646, calls upon the inhabitants of " Northumberland" for taxes: "Whereas the inhabitants of Chickawane alias Northumberland being members of this colony have not hitherto contributed towards the charges of War. It is now felt that said inhabitants do make payments of the leavy according to such rates as are by the Grand Assembly assessed. The inhabitants of Chickawane shall alwaies hereafter be liable for taxes." The taxes were assessed in tobacco as follows :

" For every 100 acres of land 15 lbs. of tobacco." " For every cow above 3 years old 15 lbs. tobacco." In case of " refusal to pay leavy the inhabitants to be called ofiE the plantation " — sent south of the Eappahannock Eiver. "Northumberland" was the name given this section in honor of the Earl of Northumberland, and that name was probably in use there, as well as the Indian name of " Chickcoun" or "Chickawane" long before it became a county. One of the rivers of this county — ^Cone or Coan — ^is an abbre-

THE PENINSULAS OP TIDEWATER VIRGINIA 18

viation of Secacaconies^ an Indian tribe once located on that stream. The first public oflScial announcement of the name of Northumberland occurs in the 9th Act of Assembly, February, 1644-5, providing for the erection of three forts, viz. : one at "Pamunkey^' (West Point), named Fort Eoyal, one at the "Falls of James Eiver^^ (Eichmond), named Fort Charles, and the third on the ridge at " Chicquohominie '* (near Bottoms Bridge), named Fort James, as follows: " And be it explained and confirmed by the authorities that the associating counties on the south side of the river are hereby to contribute towards the maintainance of the (Indian) war on that side, without any expectation of any contribution from the north side, and so likewise on the north side by themselves including Northampton and Northumberland.^^ From the above one would conclude it had been made a county at, or prior to 1644, but the writers of the early period, except Hening, were content with their own knowledge that Northumberland was but a " Plantation ^^ in 1644-45. The earliest court records now in the clerk^s oflBce of that county are dated 1652. Some of the court records were burned many years ago, therefore it is not known what dates the records bore which were destroyed. The old books are bound with oak board backs, covered with heavy leather. They contain much of interest in the matter of curious wills, and surprising items relating to the sentences imposed by the courts for offenses (stated in the plainest words of the English language), which under the present day ruling of the courts would meet with less rigorous punishment.

Eichmond County, formed in 1692, from old Eappahannock, named in honor of Duke of Eichmond.

Westmoreland County, formed in 1653, from Northumberland, named after Westmoreland in England. The first mention of Westmoreland County is in an Act of Assembly of July, 1653, by which '^ It is ordered that the bounds of the

14 LIFE IK OLD VIRQINIA

County of Westmoreland be as follows^ viz. ; from Machoactoke Biver, where Mr. Cole lives, and so upwards to the falU of the great river Pawtomake, above Nescostines towne." Nescostines towne referred to was probably a settlement of Indians at the place now known as *' Anacostia/' on the Eastern Branch, now in the District of Columbia. Westmoreland County under this Act extended to " the falls of the Potomac/^ which would include the territory now comprising the counties of King George, StafiEord, Prince William, Fairfax and Alexandria.

King George County, formed in 1720, from Richmond County, named in honor of King George I.

These five counties are formed within a peninsula, the southern and eastern boundaries being the mouths of the Bappahannock, and Potomac rivers.

Many persons include the County of Stafford in the present *' Northern Neck of Virginia.*' To include this county would bring the Northern Neck opposite to the City of Fredericksburg, and beyond it to include the limits of the whole county. The city of Fredericksburg is in Spotsylvania County, and lies on the southern banks of the Bappahannock, at the ** falls *' of that river — the head of tidewater of that stream.

The original *' Northern Neck of Virginia*' distinguishes this peninsula as being once the seat of the largest individual land holdings ever in America. In 1661, Charles II, of England made a grant of land in America to Lord Hopton and others, which included : " All that entire tract, territory and parcel of land, lying and being in America, and bounded by and within the headwaters of the rivers Tappahannock alias Bappahannock, and Quiriough alias Potomac rivers, the course of the said rivers as they are commonly called and known by the inhabitants, and description of their parts and Chesapeake Bay.'* This was sold by the original patentees to

THE PENINSULAS OF TIDEWATER VIRGINIA 15

Lord Culpeper in 1683, and later was confirmed to him by letters patent in the fourth year of the reign of James II, of England. The elder — Thomas 5th — Lord Fairfax, married the only daughter of Lord Culpeper. These lands descended to the son by this marriage — Lord Thomas Fairfax, Sixth Baron of Cambridge. He came to Virginia in 1739 to look after this estate. This immense tract included the territory now comprising the counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Eichmond, Westmoreland, King George, Stafford, Prince William, Fauquier, Fairfax, Loudon, Culpeper, Clarke, Madison, Page, Shenandoah and Frederick, in the present limits of the State of Virginia, and Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan, Berkeley and Jefferson, now within the State of West Virginia; the whole estate comprising nearly 6,000,000 acres. It was said that the first grant was only intended to include the territory between the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers east of the Blue Eidge Mountains. When Fairfax discovered that the Potomac River headed in the Alleghany Mountains he went to England and instituted his petition in the Court of the Kings Bench for extending his grant into the Alleghany Mountains, so as to include the territory now composing the counties of Page, Shenandoah, and Frederick, in Virginia, and Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan, Berkeley, and Jefferson, now in West Virginia. A compromise was effected between Fairfax and the Crown, in which it was stipulated that the holders of lands, under what then were called "Kings grants,^^ were to be quieted in their right of possession. Fairfax, under certain pretexts took it upon himself to grant away large quantities of these Crown granted lands to individuals other than those occupjring or claiming them under the Crown grants, and thereby produced numerous lawsuits. His title was disputed on every hand. The northern boundary was disputed by the Maryland proprietary, and his eastern and southern boundaries were disputed by many settlers upon it. On the Maryland side the question was which of the two head streams of the Potomac was intended to be the northern boundary of Lord Culpeper^s purchase in 1683. In Virginia the dispute was concerning the grants to settlers east of the Alleghanies, and also as to which of the two head streams of the Eappahannock was the Fairfax limits : '^ The Conway ^^ (confluent of the Eapidan), or the Eappahannock, between these being all the land now comprised by the counties of Culpeper, Madison and Eappahannock.