La Plata, Brazil, and Paraguay, during the present war

Front matter

LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, CHARING CROSS, S.W.

if ^

/3^

Chapter I

ENGLISH AND FKENCH SaUADRONS — APPOINTMENT TO H.M. GUN- BOAT "spider" — INCIDENTS OP VOYAGE OUT IN PACKET —

ARRIVAL AT MONTE VIDEO — THE STATE OP APFAIRS THERE

URUGUAY — DESCRIPTION OP MONTE VIDEO, ITS SOCIETY AND PEOPLE, THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC 1

Chapter II. Monte Video — The " ©riental " Hotel — Arrival Of Mail

ORDERED TO START FOR PARAGUAY — CROSSING THE " ORTIZ " — ^ARRIVAL AT BUENOS AYRES — MR. PARISH — QUALIFICATIONS FOR THE CONSULAR SERVICE — FLANAGAN AND HIS WIFE's BURIAL-FUND MONEY — ARRANGEMENT WITH PILOT — JOURNEY UP THE PARANA — PASS OF OBLIGADO — ROSARIO — A DUST- STORM — SAN LORENZO — ANCHORAGE FOR THE NIGHT . . . . 16

CHAPTEE III.

DANGERS OF NAVIGATING THE PARANA — STRIKING A SANDBANK — ^LA PAZ — SCENE OF NAVAL ACTION BETWEEN BRAZILIANS AND PARAGUAYANS — CRUELTY OF THE PARAGUAYANS DURING -"' THE CAMPAIGN IN CORRIENTES — PREPARATIONS FOR ENGAGE- MENT— ALARM OF RESIDENTS — STRENGTH OF BRAZILIAN FLEET

BRILLIANT AFFAIR AT THE " PASS OF CUEVOS " VISIT TO

THE BRAZILIAN COMMODORE DETAINED AT CORRIENTES

TAKING THE EVENING BATH — THE CORRIENTINOS — THE TOWN

— INCIDENT IN A CAFE 31

VI CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter IV. Senor Farreas, The Governor Of Corrientes — The Pampero

— NATIVE METHOD OF FISHING CHRISTMAS ON BOARB — FETES

ON SHORE — VISITING ON NEW-YEAR's DAY — INVITATION TO ATTEND A TERTULIA — THE SPANISH WALTZ 53

CHAPTEE Y.

ALARM OF FIRE-SHIPS — THE LAW OF NEUTRALS — RIDING IN

THE CAMPO VIS£T TO THE ALLIED ENCAMPMENT GENERAL

VENANGIO FLORES — PREPARATIONS FOR CROSSING THE PASO DE LA PATRIA — A VISIT FROM CHACO INDIANS — INDIAN

METHOD OF CROSSING HORSES ON THE PARANA VISIT TO

THE INDIAN CAMP— THE GAME OF TAPIA JEALOUSY, AND ITS

CONSEaUENCES 72

CHAPTEE YI.

VISIT TO THE PASO DE LA PATRIA — SKETCH OF PARAGUAY — DR. FRANCIA — FRANCISCO SOLANO LOPEZ — THE RIVER PARA- GUAY— SKETCH OF THE WAR — ADMIRAL MURATORI . . . . 92

CHAPTEE YII.

STRENGTH OF THE RESPECTIVE FORCES, THEIR POSITION, ETC. — STRATAGEM OF PARAGUAYANS — NAVAL ENCOUNTER AT PASO DE LA PATRIA — PASSAGE OF THE ALLIED TROOPS — EVACUA- TION OF ITAPIRU ATTACK ON THE ALLIES BY LOPEZ EN- GAGEMENT BEFORE ESTERO BELLACO 113

CHAPTEE YIII.

position of the allied army mortality among the forces

— Torpedoes — inactivity of the allies — contest for the tuyuty mound death of colonel palleja capture op

. curuzu — ^repulse of the allies at curupaiti — appointment of admiral ignacio — his energy and gallantry —

withdrawal of the argentine troops movement to

turn the paraguayan flank at las rojas 130

CONTENTS. Vll

CHAPTER IX.

ADMIRAL IGNACJO ENGAGES THE FORTS OF CURITPAITI — CAPTURE BY THE ALLIES OF PILAR AND TAYI — DESPERATE ATTACK BY

PARAGUAYAN CAVALRY UPON TUYUTY ACCESSIONS TO THE

BRAZILIAN NAVY — POSITION AND STRENGTH OF THE BATTERIES OF HUMAITA — FORCING THE HUMAITA PASSAGE AND STORMING OF ESTABLECIMENTO — RETREAT OF LOPEZ — RUSE ON THE PART OF THE PARAGUAYANS — ABANDONMENT OF CURUPAITI — DE- VOTION OF THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE TO THE CAUSE OF LOPEZ . . 147

CHAPTER X.

GALLANT REPULSE OF AN ASSAULT UPON HUMAITA ITS EVACUA- TION AND SURRENDER OP ITS GARRISON — CONDUCT OF LOPEZ

STRENGTH OF ALLIED FORCES — PLAN OP OPERATIONS — ABAN- DONMENT OF TIMBO BY THE PARAGUAYANS — ADVANCE OF THE ALLIED FORCES UPON ASUNCION — ESCAPE OF LOPEZ TO CERRO LEON — OFFICIAL DECLARATION OF END OF CAMPAIGN — REVIEW, AND REFLECTIONS THEREON 168

CHAPTER XI.

DEPARTURE FROM CORRIENTES — RETURN TO MONTE VIDEO — EX- PEDITION UP THE RIVER URUGUAY ENGAGEMENT WITH PILOT

DESCRIPTION OF THE RIVER URUGUAY GENERAL URQUIZA

— VISIT TO HIS PALACE AT SAN JOSE — DINNER — THE GUALE- GUAYCHU WATER 188

CHAPTER XII.

DIFFICULTIES OF THE SPANISH IDIOM — THE BALL AT THE general's, ETC. — METHOD OF CATCHING PARTRIDGES IN LA PLATA — ENTERTAINMENT AT GENERAL URQUIZA's FARM-HOUSE — BREAKING IN WILD COLTS — THE DORMADOR — SHEEP-FARM- ING IN LA PLATA 204

VIU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE GENTLE SHEPHERDS — THE WELSH COLONY OF CHUPAT — ADVICE TO INTENDLNG EMIGRANTS— LIFE IN A LA PLATA

ESTANCIA PREPARATION OF PRESERVED BEEF AT FRAY BENTOS

— VISIT TO A SALADERO — THE ACTION AT THE PASS OF OBLI- GADO — DEPARTURE FOR RIO JANEIRO 218

CHAPTEE XIY.

BRAZIL, ITS MILITARY AND NAVAL FORCES, ETC. — LOSSES DURING

CAMPAIGN BAHIA THE EMPEROR OF BRAZIL JEALOUSY OF

THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION AND URUGUAY RIO JANEIRO

BAY — THE TOWN — THE " MACHIN BOMBA" — TEJUCA THE

CHURCH OF ST. MARGARITA — A MOUNTAIN STORM — RETURN

CHAPTEE XY.

VISIT TO PETKOPOLIS — DESCRIPTION OF TOWN, PEOPLE, ETC. —

MULE TRAINS — VIEW FROM THE SIERRA VISIT TO THE RIO

BOTANICAL GARDENS — PASSAGE IN THE " RHONE " — THE PAS- SENGERS— VISIT TO BAHIA — THE SALOON SERVANTS — HOME TO ENGLAND 256

LA PLATA,

AND THE WAR IN PARAGUAY.

Chapter I

ENGLISH AND PRENCH SQUADRONS — APPOINTMENT TO H. M. GUN- BOAT "spider" INCIDENTS OF VOYAGE OUT IN PACKET —

ARRIVAL AT MONTE VIDEO — THE STATE OF AFFAIRS THERE

URUGUAY — DESCRIPTION OF MONTE VIDEO, ITS SOCIETY AND PEOPLE, THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC.

The English naval squadron stationed on the south-east coast of America has for many years been kept at one large vessel (generally a frigate) as flag-ship, with a few small steamers and gunboats of lighter draught for river service. The French also maintain a similarly small force in that part of the world, but the apparent weakness of the two squadrons taken separately has been well counterbalanced by their invariable co-operation in time of difficulty ; and this has perhaps enabled the respective admirals to effect more in dealing with the constant revolutions of the La Plata republics than they would have been able to accomplish with larger forces working separately. Although no actual conflict between England and France and the forces of the La Plata republics lias taken place since the " forcing the passage of

Z LA PLATA, AND

Obligado " in 1845, still on several occasions it has been necessary to land a combined force of seamen and marines to protect the mercantile interests during the disturbances consequent on a change of government ; but here the moral effects of the union of England and France, supported by the personal respect in which the merchants of those two countries are held by the local governments, has always enabled the naval commanders to attain their object without coming to blows with the natives. The duties connected with the higher parts of the rivers on the station fall to the lot of the small craft ; and this river service, at all times novel and exciting, had now received additional interest from the commencement of the war between Brazil and Paraguay which promised to offer an opportunity for visiting those comparatively little known countries, Paraguay and the northern provinces of the Argentine Confederation.

In July, 1865, having been appointed to H. M. gun-boat Spider, stationed on the south-east coast of America, I was ordered to take a passage in the packet of the 9th, and accordingly arrived on the morning of that day at the Southampton docks, ready to embark. The docks in Midsummer are not a bad preparation for a journey to the tropics ; what with the glare of a fiercely hot sun, lighting up groups of Lascars, Chinamen, negroes, and Creoles of all shades, unloading cargoes of cochineal, indigo, coffee, pineapples, oranges, &c., a very little imagination suffices to carry the thoughts to the Indies. The E. M. steamer Doiiro was to be our ship ; and I found

THE WAH IN PARAGUAY. 3

a brother- officer who was going to join a ship on the South American station would share my cabin with me. We started the same afternoon, with a fine breeze in our favour, and soon passed the Needles on our way to Lisbon, which port we reached on the fourth day ; from there we went to St. .Yincent, where, after coaling, we again started across the ocean for Brazil.

Certainly, should the pampas of La Plata ever become fashionable, or form part of the enterprising Briton's grand tour, July can be recommended as a good month for starting from England. At that season the ocean (which forms such a considerable item in the journey) is on its best behaviour ; and the pure summer breeze which reaches you on midocean in the perfection of freshness is beyond description, and requires to be experienced to be appreciated.

We were now bowling merrily along under sail and steam some eleven knots an hour, putting up shoals of flying fish as we dashed through the long Atlantic swell. The passengers, of which there were more than an average number on board, were nearly all on deck, seated in those inevitable articles of steam-packet furniture, cane-bottomed easy chairs ; the English portion of the community were armed with the regulation yellow-backed railway novel, the foreigners with their pamphlet-looking volumes of divers colours, — the French affecting pale green and pink, the Germans j^ellow and straw-colour. All were supposed to be reading, but in reality flirtations were

B 2 going on in almost every language under the sun, from broken English — which is still beheved by many native possessors of that language to be the most intelligible medium for expressing the feelings to a foreigner — to Dutch. All were in the best of humours, particularly the Grermans, who, fat, calm, and placid, were regarding the gentle blue waves with great satisfaction. One male Grerman, a trifle superior to his countrymen and women on board in the matter of fatness, calmness, and placidity, was seated in a chair of suitable dimensions, which slid about as the ship heeled over without disturbing the equanimity of its occupant in the least, who sat still, speechless and happy, canoning against the people seated in his neighbourhood with a peaceful indifference as to the interruptions of several quiet little tetes-a-tete which were brought to an abrupt termination on encountering his onslaught, until at last a happy roll of the ship capsized him into the lee scuppers, where he had ample time to reflect on his situation.

There were several old travellers on board, who could be distinguished by their well-appointed easy chairs, with the owner's name neatly sewn on the back. These easy chairs are quite an institution on board packets ; they are generally constructed in the same fashion, and are invariably the private property of the respective passengers ; for the company sternly ignores easy seats of any description. As the old and wary traveller is to be distinguished by his possessing a comfortable chair, so the youthful and inexperienced beginner is to be marked by not having one of his own, but bj occupjdng his neighbour's, with evident approval of the idea^ until requested to move.

Our voyage progressed favourably ; in fact, the sea was as smooth as a lake the whole way across, and an open boat might have accompanied us with perfect safety. We arrived at Eio Janeiro on the 4th of August, and the following day started for Monte Yideo in the Carmel, the steamer which runs between Rio and Buenos Ayres, calling at Monte Video on her way, and reached the latter port on the 12th of the same month. The Admiral had just started for a cruise, intending to visit the parts of the station situated near the line during the cool season.

I found my gun-boat was anchored oflP the custom-house, and, after reporting my arrival to the senior officer, I went to look at her. She was small — very small ; in fact she appeared to be all gun, the huge 100-pounder Armstrong towered over her bulwarks in such a disproportionate manner. Everybody wanted to hear the news from home : " When were the promotions coming out ?'' was of course the first question : but my budget of gossip was tame compared with the stirring time now commencing in the River Plate. I was told that the Argentines had joined Brazil and Uruguay, and an alliance had been formed, pledging themselves to overthrow Lopez at all hazards ; that the Monte Yideans were off to the war, and the foreign merchants would have it all to themselves, and expected to make "pots of money " during the ensuing operations, the port of Monte Yideo being likely to form a base of supply for the army when tlie campaign commenced. The character of the Paraguayan Dictator appeared to be most impartially handled, one party calling him a savage beast, and the other pronouncing him to be a man of unquestioned talent and energy : one thing all agreed in — that he was likely to prove a difficult subject for the allies to manage. But opinion was again divided on the point of his policy in thus bringing all three powers on himself at once, as he had lately done in invading the Argentine territory. Persons who believed in Lopez said the alliance could never hold, and that Brazil would have to withdraw from want of money ; others were certain that Lopez was already making arrangements to leave the country, and had sent away a considerable portion of his treasure.

Certainly his policy, if he ever had any beyond lust of power (ambition is too respectable a term to apply), is difficult to understand. It must be supposed that, having embarked his all in soldiers and fortifications, he now wished to see the result of his speculation before getting too old to enjoy it. The ostensible cause of the rupture was jealousy of Brazil ; for, while the Argentine Confederation and Banda Oriental have never made any pretension of keeping up a naval or mihtary establishment, Brazil had always mainained a force sufficiently strong to perform the necessary duties on her extended frontier ; and although her army had never been hitherto sufficiently increased to enable it to assume ofi'ensive operations, still it was a respectable force, and, as the late war has shown, readily capable of enlargement. Paraguay, it was well known, had been for years arming, and while other countries in the neighbourhood had been applying their resources to the development of commerce, Lopez had absorbed the entire revenue of his republic in the establishment of a military power out of all proportion to the requirements of his country. Now was to be determined the question of the protectorate of the rich provinces south of Brazil and Paraguay : was it to be the amiable Lopez, who had lately given a specimen of his style of administration in his treatment of the inhabitants of Corrientes after overrunning their province ; or the Emperor of Brazil, who had given ample proof of his capacity as a ruler in the prosperous condition of his large empire, and the respect in which he was held by all classes of his people ?

The republic of Uruguay, or, as it is as commonly called, Banda Oriental, is bounded on the north by the Brazilian province of Pio Grrande, and on the other sides by the ocean. La Plata, and river Uruguay. It contains an area of 73,000 square miles (the same as Paraguay) ; but while Paraguay has a population of 1,337,000, Uruguay has only 300,000. A considerable portion of these are foreigners, and exempt from military service ; consequently the force maintained by the state is only 2,500 men of all arms. At the commencement of the Paraguayan war these were by great exertion raised to 3,000 effectives, and under the command of General Yenancio Flores, their gallant President, joined the allied forces as the Oriental contingent. They were stationed in the vanguard of the army, and made up for their want of numbers by the most conspicuous gallantry, until, decimated by the constant fighting extending over a period of two years, the few survivors were incorporated in the Argentine divisions, and ceased to form a separate corps. The sad end of their brave and energetic leader, who perished by the hand of an assassin, excited universal pity and indignation. He was considered the most dashing cavalry officer of his day, and was always to be found in action where the fire was hottest. His second in command, Colonel Pallaja, who was equally celebrated as author and soldier, also lost his life in the service of his country ; he was killed at Estero Bellaco : and, indeed, there were few families in Monte Yideo who had not cause to mourn the loss of some relative during the bloody campaign in Paraguay.

Monte Yideo, the chief town of the Eepublic, is built on the eastern side of a large bay. It is by far the most agreeable part of the east coast of South America ; the climate is good, and temperate enough to admit of sharp exercise. The land gradually ascends from the shore to a height of 500 feet, giving a rather striking appearance to the town when vievv'ed from the sea at the entrance of the bay. The houses are well built, generally two stories high , with azotea and mirador ; the streets are arranged in squares, the Spanish fashion being retained in that as well as in many other points. On the opposite side of the bay, across the water, stands the Mount from which both the town and bay take their names. The country in the vicinity is open grass-land, generally thin and scanty ; where the soil is exposed, it shows fine light-coloured sand. The country-houses of the wealthy city merchants are dotted here and there, their surrounding gardens relieving the eye from the generally monotonous appearance of the district; farther down towards the beach are the large saladero establishments, which continue round the bay, until they are met by the wharves and warehouses of the city, while these latter are terminated at the south-east part of the town by the custom-house, a fine handsome building, with a large wooden shed in front, where the goods are placed temporarily on being landed from the shipping. The anchorage presents a wonderful scene of animation ; flags of all nations are flying in countless numbers, and ships of all sizes are lying at their anchors, from the pretty little fruit schooner, which runs to Eio with apples and brings back oranges, to the huge iron-clad Monadnock, who, with a fleet of other men-of-war of all nations, is lying in the offing.

The shallowness of water causes considerable inconvenience, for ships drawing only fourteen feet of water can scarcely approach within three miles of the custom-house ; and even at that distance it is a common occurrence for them to be aground for weeks at a time. The Mount is the especial pride of the Monte Yideans, and in spring (September) is very beautiful ; it rises gracefully and quite alone, on the extreme point of the land, with a profusion of wild flowers covering it from the base to the summit, their great variety of colours producing just before sunset (when the sun shines full on them) a most charming effect. Nor is the Mount ornamental only ; the lighthouse and signal-station are placed on the top, and both by night and day form most important marks for navigating the river. The inhabitants of the town consider it resembles, if not equals, Naples in appearance and beauty. That must be, of course, a matter of opinion ; but I fancy any strangers who have had an opportunity of comparing the respective cities will agree that Monte Video decidedly excels Naples in the matter of vile smells, which is saying a good deal, Naples itself not being the sweetest of places. Many a night have I spent in Monte Video Bay vainly trying to pacify my olfactory nerves by stuffing cotton up my nose and muffling up my head, until nearly suffocated. Quite useless ! all one can do is to groan and curse the saladeros.

Monte Video has its Plaza, where the senoritas promenade after church, and the caballeros salute them from the side of the walks, it not being etiquette for gentlemen to join the ladies. The toilets are arranged according to the religious season of the year, and on particular fiestas are most gorgeous. The gentlemen, too, on Sundays are great swells, in Parisian ties and gloves, and London hats. The cathedral occupies one side of the Plaza, opposite the public offices. The theatre is a handsome building ; and there are two clubs, one English, the other native. The principal street, called the Twenty-fifth May, has very fair shops in it, and of an evening is used

THE WAR IN PARAGUAY.

as a fashionable promenade, the amusement of shopping being varied by a stroll up to the Plaza where a military band plays. The scene about nine of a summer's evening is very pretty and amusing ; the band playing, streets crowded with well-dressed people, cafes all lighted up, and the shops decked with their best goods, make a most effective tableau. After nine people go to the opera, or home, when they receive visitors, calls being usually made in the evening, when it is cool. Occasionally there is a good operatic company at Monte Yideo, but it always requires considerable support from the government to keep it up. There is a good-sized church, with an English clergyman (the Rev. Samuel Adams) for the large Protestant community. The church is built close to the ridge of a cliff overhanging the sea, on which, in south-easterly gales, the waves dash with great violence ; it is to be feared that the foundations of the building will soon get undermined, for the bank on each side is rapidly giving way to the influence of the water. The Monte Yidean government is jealous of foreign religious bodies, and it is said it suggested a short time ago that the English burial-ground, which is a handsome enclosure laid out with great care, should be handed over to the local authorities as a park for the people. This modest request was of course refused, considering the land was bought and paid for with English money. The proposal was considered rather as an insult offered by the Poman Catholic priests. Almost every European, nationally, is represented at Monte Yideo ; tlie large mercliaiits and bankers are generally English or Grerman, tlie shop-keepers French, and the country and market people natives, Italians, and Spaniards ; the latter (principally from the Basque provinces) also are to be found amongst the nautical community in large numbers. The market is well worth visiting during the fruit season. Here you see the pomegranate by the side of a basket of cherries, pine-apples and peaches, strawberries and bananas, all having been raised in the open air ; also vegetables of every variety. The flowers are handsome, but generally wanting in scent. The gardens are enclosed by hedges formed of the aloe, and a few of the quintas that have had any trouble taken in laying out their grounds show that tropical plants can be brought to perfection there as easily as European. In the immediate neighbourhood of Monte Yideo the sandy soil is much against flowers ; it also partially destroys the flavour of the more delicate fruits. Pears and apples are particularly fine, and considerable numbers are sent up to Brazil during the season.

Society is divided into two sets, socially as well as politically, Blancos and Cohforados. The Blancos are the old aristocratic, exclusive, conservative families. The Collorados are the new, go-ahead, unscrupulous, and most powerful party, and are now in office; Brazil, the protector, favours the latter party. The Blancos look with great distrust and jealousy on the Brazilian influence ; this has been carefully fostered by Lopez, and has been one of the ostensible causes of the war. There are many pleasant families, no doubt, on both sides, but the Blancos are the favourites in society. The lovely senoritas of the latter set, when seen in public, affect a charmingly pensive air, and their graceful figures are draped in .black. When saluted by a passing caballero, they answer the bow by a sad and downcast movement, expressive of the fallen fortunes of their partj^ This would be only laid aside for a look of scorn when some person of the Oo^forado faction passed, and quickly resumed ; until the evening, when, seated on sofas round a very, very dimly-lighted room, they received the friends of their family.

There is something inexpressibly enchanting in these darkened visits, where you cannot see any faces, and only know when you have come to your particular favourite by the gentle pressure of the hand and a slight movement of dress to make room for you by her side ; and then, while some one, told off for the occasion, is drumming away on the piano, what pleasant minutes — hours — pass ! It is astonishing how quickly a foreign language is learnt under these circumstances ; and then, when the mate bowl is handed round, and the fair seiiorita, taking a little sip through the silver tube, gives it to you, what rapture ! You receive it, taking advantage of the contact of hands to administer a gentle squeeze, and with an eloquent and impassioned look place the tube in your own mouth. Here, unless you happen to be coppered inside your throat, your pleasure for the rest of the evening is over ; the vile decoction is red hot, and as bitter as gall ! With one bound you dash at the nearest window or fireplace, and explode like a volcano, amidst shouts of laughter; for the ladies, sad as they look in the morning, can appreciate a joke in the evening very keenly. This mate trick has long been a standing joke, and a newcomer is invariably victimized.

During the heat of the summer the inhabitants retire to their quintas, where they can get the cool breezes from the country. When the flag-ship is at Monte Video, the Admiral lives on shore generally. In 1865 the Admiral's quinta was at Pas^o Molino, a pretty village and bridge about foin- miles from town, but it could be reached by boat within half a mile. Here the Admiral entertained the principal inhabitants of the town, and one met all the prettiest of the Monte Yidean senoritas at his very pleasant dejeuners.

The principal amusement at Monte Yideo is riding ; horses are very cheap and (if you look out sharply) good. Horsed ealers are shy of giving any one a valuable horse at first unless they know he can ride, and is not likely to damage the animal ; the best plan is to get a resident to go with you to the stables for the first time, then you have no difficulty. A vicious horse is more than usually inconvenient at Monte Yideo ; for if you get thrown off and happen to alight on a hedge, the aloe thorns pierce you like a cheval de frise of bayonets. This is not at all unlikely to happen unless you are well up to the ways of the country, for the roads are infested with

THE WAR IN i'AnAGVAY. 15

savage curs of dogs, who start out at every turn, barking furiously, and the horse invariably shies ; so, unless you have a steady hand on your animal, he goes into the opposite hedge directly, and you come out minus a coat-tail, or perhaps a pound or so of flesh. The roads in the vicinity of the town are also in a terrible condition, and there is no more painful sight than to see a team of oxen trying to drag a huge lumbering waggon, heavily laden, through one of these pantanos, with the mud above the axle of the wheel.