The land of Bolivar : or, War, peace, and adventure in the republic of Venezuela

Front matter

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Preface

Venezuela lies so much out of the beaten track of tourist and traveller, that but little is known in Europe of its scenery, its products, or its people. - A residence of eighteen months in this picturesque country, full of mineral wealth, and rich in other natural resources, yet almost untrodden by the man of science, may perhaps be considered sufficient apology for this attempt to add to the scanty knowledge we possess of a land bordering on British Guiana, and opposite to Trinidad, and from which, it is more than probable, the meat-supply of our West Indian possessions must, sooner or later, be derived.

The materials for this volume were collected by the writer during 1871 and 1872, when the Republic of Venezuela was gliding into peace, after twenty -five years of continued civil war and trouble. During his residence in the country he was in treaty with the Government for several important mining conces-

PREFACE .

viii

sions, which naturally brought him into close relations with the ruling powers, and afforded him opportunities of acquiring accurate information from sources not generally accessible.

His memories of places and of the people are of the most vivid and endearing character. In many of his excursions the author was accompanied by the late Senor Ramon Bolet, an artist of great promise, whose early death is a matter of sincere sorrow. To his pencil are due most of the sketches from which the illustrations are taken. The remainder are principally copied from drawings made on the spot by Mr. Anton Goering, no less eminent as a botanist and ornithologist than as a' lover of the picturesque.

The valleys of Caracas, of the Tuy, and of Aragua, for richness of soil and luxuriance of vegetation, as well as for the natural beauty of their scenery, need fear no comparison. Strikingly in contrast with these, but no less attractive and beautiful, are the mountain ranges. To the Peak of Naiguata, the highest of the coast chain, considerable space is devoted in these pages to describe the first ascent to its summit.

Although the author has chiefly confined himself to a record of incidents of travel, he has been desirous, at the same time, of furnishing a general outline and

PREFACE.

ix character of this great South American Republic. The text gives details of its geography, natural history, and political constitution, as well as a sketch of the War of Independence, and of the successive revolutions, ending with that which seated the government of General Guzman Blanco firmly in power. The Appendix consists of an outline of the Colonial administration of Venezuela ; of various papers relating to natural history, mineralogy, and archaeology ; and of some documents of a more personal character.

To General Nicanor Bolet Peraza, and to General Leopoldo Terrero, the author is indebted for much information ; by Dr. A. Ernst of Caracas, he has been supplied with a considerable amount of scientific data; and Mr. William E. A. Axon, M.R.S.L., has rendered most valuable aid, from his familiarity with the language and history of Spanish America.

—II. Maccabees xv. 39.

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

(February, 1871.)

Departure — The “ Seine ” — Passing the Azores — Pico — A night of horrors — Sombrero — Virgin Islands — Bay of St. Thomas — Quarantine — The escape — Leeward and Windward Islands — St. Kitts — Redonda — Barbadoes — Sugar — A week’s purgatory— The “Cuban” — Off “ Tierra Firme” — Arrival at La Guayra — The Aduana — “ Hotel Neptuno ” — Origin of La Guayra — A hot story-— Description of the port — Breakwater— Plaza or Alameda — Church of St. Juan de Dios —

— The road to the capital — Arrival at Caracas . . Pages 1

Chapter II. Caracas : Churches, Statistics, And Spanish Idioms

The British Consulate — Hotel Saint Amand — A Caracas merchant — Petty annoyances engendered by civil war — “Alto ! Quien vive ? ” — Caracas : Climate, Situation, Churches and Population— Vital statistics — University of Caracas — the Cathedral—St. George and the maggots — “La Iglesia de la Santisima Trinidad ” — Extra-mundane generosity — The miraculous image — The legend of “ El Cerrito del Diablo ” — Cock-fighting — “ El Casino ” — An old acquaintance — The farm of Blandin — A visit to the Minister of Foreign Rela-

Xll

CONTENTS.

tions — Senor Antonio Leocadio Guzman — Episode in the life of the Minister — A Brazilian Envoy Extraordinary — A canal scheme to unite the rivers Amazon and Orinoco — Guanape — Maiquetia — Exports from La Guayra — “ La Iglesia de la Santisima Caramba ! ” — Priests — Jesuitical casuistry — Difficulties of learning Spanish — Idioms . Pages 24-45

Part I

Agustin Codazzi — The Country : its limits, area, sea-board, mountains, rivers, and climate — The three zones — yegetation — Metals and minerals — Cattle-breeding — Zoology — Population — Anthropology — Abolition of slavery — Equality— Form of government — Powers of the President —

“ Alta Corte F ederal ” — Revenues — Religion — Religious liberty — National defences — Education — Commerce — Smuggling— Public debt — States of Bolivar, “ Guzman Blanco,” Guarico, and Carabobo Pages 46-61

Part II

States of Nueva Barcelona and Cumana — Caves of the Guacharos, States of Maturin, Nueva Esparata, Yaracuy, Barquisimeto, Coro, and Zulia — Lake of Maracaybo — The States of Trujillo, Merida, Tachira, Zamora, and Portugueza — Province of Apure — The Llanos of Venezuela — Province of Guayana — Poisoned arrows — Indian love task — Ciudad- Bolivar Pages 62-82

CHAPTER V. EXCURSION TO THE COAL DISTRICT OF NUEVA BARCELONA. (April, 1871.)

Black diamonds — A miserable steamer — Inauguration of a campaign against Civil War — Arrived at Barcelona — The port — The Monagas family — “ La Casa Fuerte ” — A narration of

CONTENTS.

xiii

Spanish atrocities — “Corona de Sangre” — The quack doctor’s fever remedy — Commerce, area, population, agriculture, and rivers of the State — Caribe Indians : origin, dress, habits, and gradual extermination of the race — Church of San Cristobal — A rich collection of sacred relics — “ Agua Providencial de Potentini ” — A ride through the cotton-growing district — Estimated possible production of the whole State — Valleys of the Neveri and Naricual — The coal district — Outcrops of mineral — Route of proposed railway — Trial of the coal — The Holy Week Procession —

Jesus Maria Jose Juan Dios Domingo Perez — Discovery of a new harbour — Entertainment at Posuelos — “ Las balas no conocen a nadie ! ” Pages 83-105

Chapter VI. Residence In Caracas

The President of the Republic, General Antonio Guzman Blanco — Portrait of the President — Down with yellow fever — Grand political celebrations — Feeding the multitude — Ministerial and military ball— The leading citizens “at home” — La Senora Elena Echanagucia de Hahn — A curious custom at balls — “ Club Union” — “ Circulo de Amigos” — A breakfast at Bonfante’s — A round of invitations — Reflections on the financial state of the country — Cotton factory at Los Adjuntos — “ El hombre de hierro ” — “ The Englishman may pass ! ”

— Arrest of a Minister — Insult to the “ Stars and Stripes.”

Chapter VII. The War Of Independence

(1800-1830.)

Simon Bolivar becomes a patriot — Blockade of the coast of “ Tierra Firme ” — The tricolour — All disputes referred to the arbitration of the sword — The Royalists victorious — Triumph of the Patriots — The wretch Zuazola — Spanish enormities — Slaves manumitted by Bolivar — Patriotic heroism — Paez takes Barfnas — The “ gang of Apure ” — Spanish gun-boats captured by cavalry — Llanero military tactics — Battle of

XIV

CONTENTS .

Quesaras del Medio — Morillo, the Spanish general, proposes an armistice — Battle of Carabobo — The British Legion —

The Spaniard driven from the land — Conduct of Paez — Dismemberment of Colombia — Bolivar resigns the presidency — His country’s ingratitude — He dies at Santa Marta —

Verses on the death of Bolivar . Pages 1 22-1 37

Chapter VIII. Modern History — Civil War

(1830-1870.)

The two political parties — Personal ambition of Paez and its results — Honours to the mighty dead — Stuffing the ballotboxes, introduced into Venezuela — The election of A. L. Guzman as President nullified — Negro emancipation — War of the Federation — Biography of Antonio Guzman Blanco —

He joins the Federalists, reorganises their army, and leads it to victory — He visits Europe to raise a loan — Election of Falcon for President — Guzman Blanco, Vice-President — Triumph of the Blues — Persecution of the Yellows — Attack on the house of Guzman Blanco — He escapes to Curazao —

His return — He takes Caracas, and becomes (provisional) President of the Republic ..... Pages 138-150

Chapter IX. A Drive Through The Valleys Of Aragua

A too early start — “ Compagnon de voyage ” — The road to Los Teques — Coffee and sugar estates — “ Fiesta de Corpo Cristo ”

— Victoria — La Quebrada sugar estate — Self-sacrifice, a reminiscence of the great war — Native troops in marching order — San Mateo — El Saman de Giiere tree — Maracay —

Lake of Tacarigua — “ The garden of the world ” — Bad roads — Valencia — Interview with the President — Agricultural data — Cost of civil war — “ Our ancestors ” — Sugar-cane —

Dr. R. Arvelo — Cheap fare in Valencia — Crossing the mountains— On the coast — Arrival at Puerto-Cabello — The double passport — Return to Caracas . . . Pages 1 51-174

CONTENTS.

xv

. CHAPTER X.

IMMIGRATION— EARTHQUAKES — CUSTOMS.

(June-August, 1871.)

The Maguey plant — Immigration — Anecdote of a German emigration agent — Tacasuruma — Attractions for settlers — Views of the President on the Barcelona harbour and coal project — Independence Day in Caracas — Postal regulations — The alienated mail-bags — Stirring events in the life of a Yankee acquaintance — Bogley the Recorder, a tale of revenge —

“Viva el General Bruzual!” — The rainy season — Earthquakes— “ Las Mariquitas ” — “ Dias de compleanos ” Pages 175-189

Chapter XI. Expedition To The Islands Of Los Roques

(August-September, 1871.)

An early morning intruder — A quick drive to La Guayra — The Caribbean Sea from the heights — A backwoodsman’s first view of the ocean — Conjectures of the natives as to the objects of the expedition — The “Venus” — Sleeping quarters — Captain Taylor — A trance — A true Sabbath — Cayo de Sal — The Los Roques group of islands — Salt-pans — Census of Cayo Grande — The thirsty cooper — Fishermen — The Captain in his r61e of literary critic — Arrival at El Gran Roque — Topography of the island — Harbour — Preliminary survey — Boye’s narratives of shipwrecks — Rats — Phosphate deposits — Animal life — Flora — Intense heat and its effects — A sail round the island — Phosphates collected — Preparations to leave — The challenge — Boye turns tail on us — A terrible storm — Off the reefs — Narrow escape — Excitement of the captain — The “Venus” beaten — The Sea-Serpent — Turtle-hunting — Arrival at La Guayra . . Pages 190-2 14

Chapter XII. National Education— Currency— Working Classes

(September-November, 1871.)

Rumours of war — Mixed currency — Change for a pound sterling — Caracas flooded — The American Minister — Interview with the President — National education — Opening of a new school

XVI

CONTENTS.

— H.M.S.“ Racoon” visits La Guayra — The officers in Caracas — Crossing the coast range of mountains — An eccentric British Minister — Why Venezuela is slandered abroad — Honesty of the lower orders — “Fiesta de Los Muertos” — Longevity extraordinary . . . . . Pages 215-226

Chapter XIII. Excursion To The Valleys Of The Tuy

PART I. — DISTRICT OF CHAR ALL AVE.

(November, 1871.)

Passports — Feast of Saint Peter and Saint Paul — A traveller’s Spartan store of provisions — On the road — “ A goods train ” in motion — The Patroness — Coche — Turmerito — Campo Alegre — Bridge of Falcon — “ Pozo de los Pajaros ” — “ Tucusiapon” — Lovera’s estate of Guayabo — The party regaled with San Cocho — Analysis of the national dish — Charallave — Hard fare — Taking stock of the district — Bad farming — Road-making — The Tuy Valley — Achiote trees — A military chief’s courtesy — Military exigencies — The Englishman and his donkey — “ My daughter ! O ! My daughter ! ” Pages 227-240

Chapter XIV. Excursion To The Valleys Of The Tuy

PART II. — DISTRICTS OF CUA, OCUMARE, AND TACATA.

(November, 1871.)

Cua — Too much garlic — Ringing the changes on beef — A fine cac&o estate — Indigo cultivation — Produce of the Cua district— Rich pasturage — “ La Teja ” — General Pedro Conde — “Queso de manos” — Cheap estate on the Llanos — Ocumare del Tuy — A night in a Catre — “ Paseo ” in the mountains — Leseur’s plantations — Coffee-picking — Invitation to settle in the Tuy — Produce of the Ocumare district — Return to Cua — The start for Altagracia — Adieu to civilization — Tacata —

Office of the Jefe Civil — A mule’s intelligence — A Tacata merchant prince — Stock-taking — Ostentatious display of table linen — Lisboa’s disgust — A horrid banquet — Sovereign consternation of the landlord — The citizens summoned — Altagracia — Paracoto — Return to Caracas . . Pages 241-257

CONTENTS.

XVII

Chapter XV. Civil War — Missionary Efforts — Orchids

(December- January, 1871-1872.)

Revolt of the Blues — Apostasy of Salazar — War in Trujillo — Capture of Ciudad- Bolivar by the Blues — Flight of the President of Guay ana — Fall of San Fernando — The troops of the Cordillera restore Trujillo to the Government — Guzman Blanco in person takes the field — The Grand Army of the Apure — Advance on San Fernando — “El Chingo Olivo”

— Plan of the battle — The Yellows victorious — Retreat of the remnant of the Blues — General Joaquin Crespo sent in pursuit — Annihilation of the fugitives — Life in Caracas — Official civility— Economic and scientific collection — Orchids— Tiger skins — New birds — A valuable relic — “ My Book ” — Senorita Loria Brion — Protestantism at a discount — An amateur evangelist — Death of the President’s mother — Popular excitement in the capital — The Danish Minister sets a good example to his compeers . . . Pages 258-272

Chapter XVI. Government Commission To The Island Of Orchila

Islands of the Republic — Resort of smugglers — Decrees — Scientific commission sent to Orchila — American Guano Company’s concession — Commission reports breach of contract — The Minister of Public Works heads a second expedition — Invitation to accompany it — Departure from Caracas — Abortive attempts at joviality — Arrival at La Guayra — Human freight list of the “ Portena” — Sufferings of the passengers — Off Orchila — “El Bahia de Nuevo Napoles”

— Explorations by moonlight — Phosphate deposits —

“ Ladrones ” — Cayo El Dorado — The Philadelphia Guano Company’s establishment — How the deposits are worked — Quantity of mineral exported— Seasons — Climate — Birds —

Fish — The Hall of Justice — The victim of the inquisition — Portrait of the victim — Double interpreter necessary — Examination of the victim — The return to the mainland.

CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. The Valleys Of The Tuy

DISTRICTS OF YARE, SANTA TERESA, AND SANTA LUCIA.

(February, 1872.)

Early morning observations — Goering’s incredible snake encounter in Merida — Our old quarters at Ocumare — How coffee is grown in Venezuela — Indian of the Tuy — Foundation for a miracle laid by Goering — A fandango of the peasantry —

Grand panorama seen from the heights of Marare — A Tuy ball — Ethnological types — Guard of honour — A ride through the valley — Death of the snake — Anecdote of a dog’s sagacity — San Francisco de Yare — Military sports — Santa Teresa —

A rest at Milagro — Santa Lucia — Produce of the district —

On the road to the capital — The coffee country of Los Mariches — Summary of statistical details . . Pages 289-310

Chapter XVIII. Peace Celebrations In The Capital

(February-April, 1872.)

Caracas mad with excitement — “ See the conquering hero comes ”

The triumphal arch — Peace speech of the victor — Grand illuminations — A visit to the chief — Leseur’s dinner party — Linguistic powers of Englishmen — The merchants entertain the President — “ Te Deum ” in the cathedral — Picnic to Catuche — Earthquakes — Death of Padre Blanco, the soldier priest — “Semana Santa” — The Venezuelan Press — “Academia Espanola.” Pages 31 1-323

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

1. The Peak Conquered . Frontispiece .

2. The Arms of Venezuela Title-page.

3. The Port of La Guayra .... To face page 16

4. Portrait of John R. Leseur 27

5. Caracas ........ To face page 29

6. Scene on the Lake of Maracaybo . . .To face page 70

7. Group of Caribe Indians 91

8. Portrait of Antonio Guzman Blanco . . . . . 107

9. Portrait of Diego Bautista Urbaneja 118

10. Portrait of Simon Bolivar . . , » . . . 123

11. Portrait of Antonio Leocadio Guzman . . . . 141

12. Maracay, and the Lake of Valencia . . . . . 158

13. A Quiet Spot, near the Lake of Valencia . . To face page 161

14. A Coffee Plantation in the Valleys of Aragua . , . 162

15. A Bridge on the Mountain Road to the Coast . . . 17 1

16. River Borburata, near Puerto-Cabello . . . . 173

1 7. Cayo de Sal 197

18. Mosquito Cayo 199

19. Portrait of L. C. Boye 203

20. Interior of Boye’s House . . . . . . . 205

21. Sunset from the North-East Corner of the Island

of El Gran Roque 210

22. The Cascade Pozo de los Pajaros” .

XX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

23. Tacata

24. Musicians Playing Native Instruments ....

25. Shipping Orchids from the Hotel Saint Amand

26. The New Bird, Lochmias Sororia .....

27. The New Bird, Crypturus Cerviniventris ....

28. American Guano Company’s Establishment on Orchila

29. The Victim of the Inquisition ......

30. The Incredible Snake Encounter in Merida

31. Indian and Dogs, of the Tuy

32. Jose Carmen de Ocumare

33. “ Flor del Tuy ”

34. Death of the Snake .

35. The Triumphal Arch

36. Illuminations on the Plaza de Bolivar . . To face 'page

37. Rio Catuche

303 ^

313 "

314 316

MAPS AND PLANS.

1. Map of Venezuela

2. Map of the Los Roques Group of Islands .

3. Plan of the Battle of Apure

4. Plan of the Island of Orchila

. To face page

MA P O F THE REPUBLIC OF

SOUTH AMERICA

N I) s '

THE LAND OF BOLIVAR.

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

My voyage to Venezuela, although undertaken chiefly to benefit my health, impaired by overwork, had also an ulterior object, and that was, to look out for any valuable mineral deposits which the islands skirting the coast might contain. Having spent years of adventure in California and Arizona, after a lengthened stay in Europe, the desire to wander westward again possessed me, and I was delighted with the prospect of going to a land that had been for twenty-five years the scene of almost uninterrupted civil war. The condolences of my friends were freely offered, for Venezuela had for some time been discredited in English eyes, and many reports detrimental to it were in circulation. The ignorance respecting the country was so universal, that the capital was only known to the average Englishman by the advertisements of “ Fry’s Caracas Cocoa ; ” whilst a British Minister, once accredited there, is said to have spent two years in a vain search for his destination.

VOL. i.

A

THE LAND OF BOLIVAR.

[Chap. i.

I left Southampton on the 3d of February 1871 by the “ Seine,” one of the last of the dear old expensive “ ocean-going ” paddle-steamers. These safe and comfortable boats have, in the march of progress and improvement, given way to the rakish, rolling, rollocking screw, unsafe and uncomfortable, the veritable steam sea-serpent of the nineteenth century. Economy being the order of the day, it is not to be expected that ships which burn eighty tons of coal in twenty-four hours will be tolerated, even though they are the best sort of sea-boats in “ dirty weather,” when it has been practically proved that this quantity can be “ screwed ” down to thirty tons.

Most passengers are very proud of being on friendly terms with the captain, but those who are wise will cultivate the acquaintance of the head-steward, and thus add greatly to their own enjoyment. Our captain— Moir, of the “Trent” affair — although a strict disciplinarian, was able not only in a masterly manner to manage his ship, but found time to see that the helpless passengers intrusted to his care were made as happy as possible, which is more than can be said of every captain in the service of the Eoyal Mail Company. Owing to his genial good-nature, .all on board went “ merry as a marriage bell.” On the quarter-deck, “ weather permitting,” young and old every evening (accompanied by the carpenter and his classical fiddle), with dance and song, chased the flying hours.

On the sixth day out we sighted the Azores, or Western Islands, those grand sentinels of the Atlantic,

Chap, i.] THE AZOTES OR WESTERN /SLANTS. 3 which, rooted in mid-ocean, raise their proud heads above the almost infinite expanse of waters, and seem to separate the hemisphere, which has had its day, from its more juvenile competitor in the west. The snow-tipped summit of Pico glittered white and brilliant in the sunshine, whilst all below it was wrapped in dark masses of clouds which moved along the side of the mountain. The height of Pico is 7613 feet.

The want of occupation is apt to make long voyages very dull, but fortunately I had plenty of employment, for, with the aid of Ollendorf’s “ Spanish Method,” I managed to fill up all spare moments.

The only incident which disturbed the even tenor of my way on board the “ Seine,” was one that left a very vivid impression on my mind. We were nearing the tropics, and the sea, in its calm stillness, had put on that painted-ocean appearance so common in these latitudes. The air had been hot and sultry, and the deck above the grand saloon (as if to prove the fallacy of science in doggedly insisting that wood is a bad conductor of caloric), was dealing down, with profuse liberality, the accumulated heat absorbed during a long and cloudless day. Dining at five o’clock in the afternoon, under such circumstances, assumed the character of a strictly formal ceremony, and in consequence, as night drew on, a stiff appetite developed itself. It was appeased by the demolition of innumerable sandwiches ; and a walk on deck, solaced by the narcotic weed so much used as a timekiller, closed the evening. Soon after I was com-

THE LAND OF BOLIVAR.

[Chap. i.

fortably ensconced in my berth, and in a few minutes entered dreamland.

My sleep was heavy, but a crashing blow on the vessel’s side partly restored me to consciousness. The concussion seemed to have driven a hole in the ship, and the gurgling, rushing sound, made by the water as it forced its way in, was fearfully distinct. Spellbound and breathless I listened ; backwards and forwards outside my cabin door went hurried footsteps. The commotion increased ; loud and stern were the voices of the officers giving orders ; then for a moment all was still, the big engines having ceased their action. The boiler fires had been put out. Door after door of the adjoining state-rooms was opened, and terror-stricken passengers poured forth, and were heard anxiously discussing the fearful news that the vessel was gradually sinking. I made prodigious efforts to rise, but could not ; to shout, but failed. At intervals the voice of the carpenter, who had been sent into the hold to gauge the depth of water, echoed through the ship, as inch by inch he announced its dreadful progress. The pumps were started, but they availed nothing to stem the inrushing flood. All below was now deserted, and the deck was crowded with passengers and crew. One after another the lifeboats were lowered, eagerly occupied, and steered away from the ship. The water surged under my cabin floor. How soon, alas, would it reach my berth ! My power of hearing was terribly acute. The last boat, in charge of the captain, was leaving the doomed ship ; and as the splash of oars and the

NOCTURNAL DESPAIR.

voices of the men died away in the distance, my agony became intense. My limbs were powerless, my tongue refused utterance ! A profound stillness now reimed — Death — mm death stared me in the

O O

face ; and such a death, abandoned and alone on a wide waste of waters !

The ever-envious flood now stole up the sides of my state-room, while seconds seemed years, minutes an eternity. It rose till it reached my berth ; it touched my face, and receded to the fore part of my cabin ; the ship was making its final plunge into the dark waters of its ocean grave. The horrors of that moment, the paralysing agony of being chained to death, the terrors of the unfathomed deep, into whose yawning vortex I was hurriedly descending — all that was dreadful and cruel in such a fate I there experienced !

At last the pent-up agony burst forth, and with a desperate struggle against the impending doom, I awoke !

“ Merciful heavens ! ” cried I, “is this a dream ? ”

It was indeed ! Morning was dawning. The sailors were already scrubbing the decks. The thud of the water from the hose-pipe falling on the roof above, and a few drops that had trickled through the planks upon my face, accounted for the fearful nightmare which had possessed me.

Sleep had fled, but it was not until the steward came in to say that my bath was ready that my equanimity was restored.

At a later date, this “ terror of the night,” in one

THE LAND OF BOLIVAR.

[Chap. i.

of his darksome prowlings, again attempted to victimise me, but the effort was vain.

On the 1 8th instant we came in sight of the island of Sombrero, on which there is a lighthouse,'* and large works for the extraction of phosphate of lime. Extensive beds of this mineral formerly existed here. The surface crop having become extinct, the present supply is obtained by divers from a depth of from twenty to thirty feet. In consequence of the exhaustion of the superficial deposits, the property was considered to be of comparatively little value, and only fetched in the London market £ 1 1 0,000 ! The ships loading showed that there was some business being done.

At noon the same day we passed in quick succession several groups of the Virgin Islands. These, although not ill-favoured, were destitute of those blooming graces the name would lead one to expect. The change of season from tropical moisture to continual aridity, in this part of the Antilles, is altering the character of these isles ; once fertile and luxuriant, they are now almost bare and barren.

In the evening the “ Seine” anchored in the bay of St.

* On a subsequent voyage to the West Indies, we had an example of the foreknowledge of modern nautical science. We had passed over the broad Atlantic without seeing a speck of land, when one clear starlight night, as I walked the deck with the Captain (Commodore Revett of the “Nile 55 S.S.), he said, “We must have Sombrero light now.” Sweeping the horizon with a powerful glass, there was no beacon to be seen ; but sending a man aloft, he at once cried out, “ Light off the port bow.” The vessel’s course was never changed. As though drawn by a magnet, she had gone straight to the spot. What would the old navigators, painfully groping their way, have thought of such a feat ?

QUARANTINE.

Thomas. It is a beautifully secluded spot ; — too much so indeed — for it seemed as if no breeze of heaven could gain access to it ; and it is here that the almost vertical and burning rays of a tropical sun often generate disease and death. On approaching the harbour two guns were fired from the “ Seine/’ and presently a boat, bearing the Danish flag, and manned by six sturdy negroes, brought the health officer alongside. After a brief conversation with our captain and doctor, he pulled off ; and immediately afterwards the yellow flag was run up to the masthead, and, to the consternation of all the passengers, the unpleasant truth flashed out that one of the ship’s petty officers was down with smallpox. In consequence we were all condemned to the horrors of quarantine.

Cut off from all communication with the town, except by fumigated dispatches quickly interchanged between the “ Seine ” and a shore-boat, we felt that we were harshly treated. There was not the slightest appearance of an epidemic ; the man who was bad had come on board ill, but the disease had not spread. He, the only person who had the smallpox, was landed, whilst all the sound and healthy ones were deprived of that privilege. Those who were going no further than St. Thomas did penance in a hulk outside the harbour ; but, happily for them (as we afterwards learned), before the expiration of the official term of their imprisonment, the poor unfortunates were liberated by their gaol-house drifting on shore during a heavy gale. The remainder escaped in various colonial boats, and these having received