The king of Saxony's journey through England and Scotland in the year 1844

Front matter

VICTORIAN 914.2 C251ke 1846

Joseph Earl and Genevieve Thornton

Arrington

Preface

The journey of his Majesty the King of Saxony through England and Scotland was so well planned and executed, and is so admirably fitted to give a rapid but clear view of the most remarkable things of these remarkable countries, that it will serve as a model for future travellers who have similar objects in view. Even in this respect, it would have been a subject of regret, had not at least a short but accurate account of the nature and direction of the various excursions undertaken been given to the public. And this circumstance, in addition to the very numerous and interesting occurrences and observations, determined me not to withold from the press the contents of my journal, written during the rapidity of the journey, and in a very brief style.

The present volume, therefore, owes its origin to no premeditated plan of travelling in order to write a book, and still less is it written and published in order to travel again, but to the circumstances alone already mentioned, together with the permission and sanction given to its appearance.

The reader is not in such a case to look for complete statistical notices, detailed geographical or historical descriptions, and still less for copious political reflections ; but he is here permitted in some measure to participate in a journey favoured in every respect, through an important country favoured in many respects, and among so many persons who exercise a remarkable influence upon the history of our times.

Had time and leisure allowed, many of the hasty sketches and vi PREFACE.

remarks in the journal might have been recast and extended, and made in many respects more complete, but they would thereby have certainly lost in freshness, precision, and reality. Even in this respect, therefore, I have preferred leaving them in their original, almost aphoristic form — with very few additions — and the more so as there can be, or is, no want of copious and accurate works on so civilised — nay, the most civilised — country in the world ; but it will be to me a subject of higher gratification, if the descriptions which I have given furnish the careful reader with what he often seeks in vain in works of the greatest detail — an unclouded feeling of true, lively, and real circumstantiality ; that is, the possibility of transporting one's self in mind into the midst of the things themselves.

Contents

PAGE.

I. — Introduction 1

II. — Journey to England— Leipzig — Magdeburg, The Cathedral — Brunswick

I. Italy, France, And England

These constitute the great triad, whose influence and investigation have produced such great effects upon Germany. To examine and clearly to represent the relations of these remarkable countries to one another and to us, must therefore always continue to be one of the most difficult and important problems for every reflecting German to solve. It has long appeared so to me, and was, in fact, the motive which determined me to take a journey to Paris, now nine years ago. Notwithstanding this, I still laboured under the disadvantage of never yet having personally visited the most difficult of these countries to be thoroughly understood ; and, after all, without personal review and observation, none of the great phenomena of the world, and least of all the development of national peculiarities, can ever be thoroughly comprehended or really understood.

In the course of time — though often late — our projects ripen; and the intended journey of his majesty the king very unexpectedly afforded me the long- wished for opportunity of being all at once transported into the very midst of this Albion, to me hitherto unknown.

In a comparatively short time I have been able to obtain a view of the capitals and rural districts of England and Scotland ; numerous and interesting persons have come under my observation ; and I feel myself impelled, from all that I have seen, to deduce a result, to which I am far from venturing to ascribe objective perfection, but which must be of decided importance for the completion of my own views of the world, and may at least serve to furnish many useful indications to others. In truth, however, no efforts at obtaining a full and perfect comprehension of such immense subjects can ever be any thing but approximative.

According to my notes, daily made, I shall first briefly follow the way which conducted me in the suite of his majesty to this rcmark-

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able island, and then anticipate the relation of particulars, by endeavouring to sketch a general view of the peculiarities of the nation and people, of the correctness of which the subsequent details of what I have seen and described in the country itself may be regarded as an appropriate proof.

II. The Journey

Hildesheim, May 22nd, 1844— -Midnight.

From Dresden to Hildesheim in a day ! — about 260 miles ! The old fables of seven-league boots are being realised. Would that many of our other pleasant dreams could be realised in a similar manner !

We arrived in Leipzig at half-past nine o'clock. The authorities received his majesty. I met my second son, having previously taken leave of the eldest at the railroad-station in Dresden.

At a quarter past two we reached Magdeburg. On leaving the train, we found carriages drawn up for our use, and the Prince of Hesse having been presented to the king, we immediately drove to the cathedral. The outside of the cathedral manifests its Gothic origin in the peculiarly sharp and strict style of its architecture. This is almost still more the case in the interior. I have seen many churches more richly ornamented, but none of such a peculiarly severe beauty.

The period of the erection of the church extends from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century. Traces of Otto I., and of the Saxon Prince Ernest — Prince Bishop of Magdeburg and Halberstadt — are everywhere visible in the first foundation, alterations, and progress of the building. The church contains the large bronze tomb of Archbishop Ernest, by Peter Fischer. Had sculpture been developed independently from that source, without the influence of the Greeks, it might have become what Shakspeare is in reference to Sophocles. A germ fitted for the development of a beauty of a peculiar description unquestionably lies in the works of Peter Fischer and his contemporaries. The study of such works may be of the greatest advantage to those who embarrass themselves with the supposition that there is only one ideal of beauty.

In the porch, where this monument stands, there are, besides, some very admirable old sculptural ornaments.

The enemies of Christianity and their prominent sins are symbolically expressed by figures of animals : murder is represented by an eagle killing a bird ; an ape singing spells of enchantment is said to represent the pleasures of the world, &c, &c.

Within, the cathedral presents to the eye a delightful architectural picture; and the style, which almost reminds one of fortifications, affords an opportunity for the most splendid effects of light and shade. Among the numerous tombs, inscriptions, and ancient pictures of all kinds, I was most struck with a large oil-painting, which represents a lady of Asseburg, who, having been buried while still alive, again came forth, and walked into the midst of her relations and family — whether for joy or new sorrows is not added.

We drove down again from the cathedral. A hasty dinner — and as early as a quarter past three the steam-carriage bore us forth past the fortress called the Star — and the star of misfortune it was to Herr von Trenk, who was long confined a prisoner in its casemates.

The afternoon was splendid — as the early morning fog announced — the company cheerful. At Aschersleben the Halberstadt and Brunswick lines separate ; and upon the latter the ducal carriage was prepared for our reception. This carriage is constructed so as to represent a small drawing-room richly adorned with velvet, and provided with two small antechambers ; the whole arranged in the most convenient manner both for motion and occupation. The country, too, becomes much more interesting than the dull plains of Leipzig and Magdeburg, through which we had previously passed. The Harz appears on the left, stretching away into the distance with its flat, sloping blue summits ; patches of snow still lie on the Brocken ; the larger hills are all green, with a beautiful foliage, and every thing breathes of the cheerful spring.

At seven wre arrived in Brunswick. Whilst the carriages were being removed from the train and provided with post-horses, the king wished to see the cathedral and the palace. The way leads through narrow streets — the houses, for the most part, with their gable-ends to the street, are built of wrood, and of the most singular construction, rising in projecting stories one above another. We came to the market-place, and then to the cathedral, before which stands the old bronze lion. The church itself is old — simple — stiff, almost in the character of that ancient rigid lion. Behind, an immense lime-tree. The church contains the tomb of Henry the Lion, and his wife. Before the choir there stands a remarkable colossal candlestick with seven branches. In the ducal vault is shown the coffin of the humane Duke Leopold, who was drowned in an attempt to save life. On the whole, the interior of this cathedral makes no memorable impression.

Finally, the new ducal palace built by Ottmer. It is erected on the site occupied by the old one, which wras burnt down, and is in the usual palace style, with a projecting portico supported by pillars — perfectly modern and elegant, as well as new — but inspires no thought of genius. We passed through the interior ; the large vaulted entrance-hall is too low, and the stairs, made of cast iron, are, indeed, strong enough, but in a large building appear too light and fragile; and every art — even the art of life — demands attention to appearance as well as to reality. The ball-room is spacious and handsomely ornamented; • the finest room in the palace, however, is a round dining-room inlaid with mahogany, and adorned with mirrors and gilded ornaments. Evening now began to approach, the carriages had driven up, and, at a quarter-past eight, we rolled away in a most glorious

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evening. The moon and Venus shone forth in all their splendour; a warm and glowing sun-set appeared to presage a continuance of fine weather; and towards midnight we arrived in Hildesheim, where every thing already assumes somewhat of a foreign air and dialect. — A very late supper — and, at last — repose.

III. Cologne, May 24th — Evening

For the first time since the commencement of our journey, I have enjoyed a feeling of rest, retirement, and quiet recollection — and that in a walk on the Rhine bridge, late in the twilight, and by the light of Venus and the moon. Nothing less than vehement travelling can bring one from Dresden to Cologne in two days and a half.

Early yesterday morning in Hildesheim, the sky, after a splendid evening, was gray, misty, and cold. I proceeded a very little way into the ancient city, and strange and wonderful buildings forced themselves peculiarly on my notice. The second story projects over the first, the third over the second, and so upwards. In all directions wooden houses, with the gables mostly towards the streets, the timbers grown brown by time, and covered with multifarious carvings; almost every house, too, presented its single or double bay windows, with highly-ornamented gables and roofs, full of windows, pilasters, and architectural ornaments. It would not be easy to find richer subjects for the scene-painter than these edifices and streets afford. I would especially recommend for such studies the open place round St. Andrew's church, in whose tower a large carved figure, covered with sheet iron painted in the brightest colours, keeps watch and ward. From hence we were conducted to the cathedral — externally, old Byzantine; within, modern, and in the worst taste. The most interesting part is the old cloisters adjoining, enclosing a species of campo santo} in which there is a very old chapel. This suggests to the mind " the tomb of all the Capulets." Opposite to this is a projecting buttress of the church, up which a very old wild-rose tree twines and clambers to the height of twenty-five feet. Its stem is strong and gray; according to the account of the sacristan, it numbers above 800 years, and traditions arc connected with its branches. The veil of an empress is said to have been caught by its thorns, and thus the sign was given her respecting the place which a dream had indicated to her for building a church. All this, joined with the ancient masonry and the green earth planted with shrubs, presented a noble picture to the mind.

In front of the cathedral there stands an old bronze column of the twelfth century, ornamented with historical reliefs, the work of Archbishop Bernard (a large and clumsy chandelier in the church is also said to have owed its existence to his handiwork). Undoubtedly, the efforts of this man, however weak in themselves, deserve a more extended notice in the history of German art.

From the church we drove to what was formerly the convent of St. Michael, now a lunatic asylum, where I met with Dr. Bergmann, privy councillor of the medical department {Geheimer medicinal Rath) who is at present at the head of the establishment. I remembered that the Countess Julia EglofTstein of Hildesheim, which is her usual residence, had spoken of the ruins of the church, and the cloisters of St. Michael's convent, as something very interesting and picturesque. After a very hasty visit to the asylum, the gates leading to these ruins were also opened to us, and I can well believe that under favourable lights, those arches and walls, with their elder-bushes and plants, must present a most interesting picture, and furnish very favourable opportunities for the study of the picturesque. Our visit took place on a gloomy day, and it made no particularly lively impression on our minds. Whilst conversing with Dr. Bergmann on his views respecting the physiology of the brain and cranioscopy, we wandered back to the carriage, which was ready to receive us, and at eight o'clock took our departure for Buckeburg.

The wind blew cold, the heavens looked dark and lowering, the fields had suffered from a violent storm, which had burst here two days before, and the grain was partly covered with earth, in short, every thing Avore a gloomy and joyless appearance. About ten o'clock a few chance sunbeams began to shed their radiance on the country — the old peasants' houses in the villages, prettily ornamented with wood carvings, made a singular impression on my mind — one bore the date of 1518. How many events have passed silently over this old wood-work !

The country now becomes mountainous ; on the left the Siintel, where Charlemagne defeated Wittekind. The Leine flows on in its course, here and there an old castle amongst beautiful oaks; at length the Weser comes in view, and the Porta Westphalica, and we arrive at the small fortress of Minden.

We dined here at five o'clock, and I was not a little astonished to find in the glass cupboard of a neighbouring room in the inn, among many old and insignificant images and Roman remains, chiefly of clay, Zahn's interesting casts of the silver vessels of Herculaneum. The riddle was solved by the host most unexpectedly proving to be the brother of Professor Zahn. When, by the side of his majesty the king, I left Minden, the weather had become delightful, and indulging in singular reflections on the times of ancient Germany, and the geological phenomena of the neighbourhood, we passed the Porta Westphalica, through which the broad stream of the Weser flows towards the sea. A large exposure of the strata of the mountain, which forms the right of the pass, presents a broad obliquely ascending stratum of the limestone of the Alps, which appears here considerably elevated, and slopes downwards in a northerly direction.

The country towards Bielefeld is agreeably hilly, meadows interspersed with corn-fields, and instead of villages, separate houses scattered over the country, like the dwellings of colonists. The old German dislike to compulsory restrictions, and a firm attachment to personal independence, appears here, in this retired mode of living, more than in any other part of Germany.

From Bielefeld we continued our journey by night, and as I enjoyed a very comfortable carriage to myself, I was free to indulge in repose. I fell into a deep sleep, and first awoke in the clear but cold morning. Fogs soon came on, and continued till behind Unna, when the sun broke forth, and under his warm and cheering beams, we passed through the beautiful and extraordinarily populous districts of Hagen and Elberfeld. The latter place, especially, appeared very ornamental and full of life. It stretches along the valley, and is built on the banks of the river — its flourishing manufactories and trade appear in the active bustle of its market, streets, and railway; and the handsome aspect of the people, which had altogether disappeared on leaving Brunswick, here again presents itself. Our carriage and four, with the well-dressed postilions and their cracking whips, rattling through the town, brought the greater part of the population to the windows and into the streets, and we were thus afforded a sort of general review of the people as we' passed, suilicient to form the foundation of a casual judgment on the appearance of the inhabitants.

At length, the valley of the Rhine begins to appear, like a blue stripe in the horizon, and further in the distance, the cathedral of Cologne, whilst to the south the tops of the Siebengebirge are dimly seen in the blue air. At four o'clock we arrived here, and alighted at the Rhine hotel; already I hear of invitations for his majesty to Brussels, and to meet Lord Delawarr on the coast of England. After a dinner elegantly served, we drove to the cathedral. Zwirner, the chief architect, conducted us over this immense work, carried on with new and increasing vigour. The back part of the choir is already freed from houses, and produces a great and noble impression upon the spectator. The plan of the nave and of the right-hand tower is now also become clearer. In the choir itself, much that was offensive to taste has been removed, but variegated colouring and gilded capitals and figures, not less offensive, are added. The most interesting part of the structure, to me, was the way up to the gallery, which first goes round the whole circuit of the choir within, between the highest arches, then passes to the outside of the building, wdiere it pursues its course round the whole external wall behind the buttresses, arches, and turrets of the choir. Before us was stretched out the extensive country. Beneath us flowed the majestic Rhine, rolling onwards to the sea. Then in the evening light the gray towers of St. Martin's and of the town-house, reflected the rays of the evening sun upon the ancient city, as it appeared through the vistas formed by the dark columns, arches, and turrets of this forest of stone. The most charming pictures were thus presented to the eye, which

I longed to transfer to paper, but a few hasty sketches were all that time suffered me to make.

Much has been already effected by the new works on the cathedral, for this outer gallery itself was previously altogether inaccessible. May more and more means be added for the completion of the grand design! The church, it is said, will still require 2,000,000 of dollars, and the erection of the two towers 3,000,000 more! It was impossible to leave without casting another glance on the old solid tower, so splendidly adorned, and stretching to half its height — after which, the declining sun compelled us to hasten over the old square-shaped Giirzenich to the hotel, from whence I then completed my solitary walk on the bridge of boats, which here stretches across the mighty flowing Rhine.

IV. Brussels, May 26th— Early

This sunny, but still somewhat cold Whitsun morning in Brussels, gives me a peculiar feeling. Hurried all at once from a long accustomed circle of existence, and in four short days transported into quite a new and foreign element. There is, after all, no other or better counsel than that of Goethe : —

At six o'clock yesterday morning we left Cologne. Our carriages, with the baggage and servants, were sent off to the railroad as early as five ; we followed shortly after, in two light open carriages, and as for a drive of pleasure, rolled out through the high and beautiful gate of the fortress of the ancient Colonia Agrippina, defended by large towers upon its walls. The station, as well as the royal carriage, fitted-up like a chamber, and richly adorned with velvet, was gaily decorated with flags, and all being ready, we started punctually with the large early train, which leaves daily at six o'clock. The various tunnels on the way, necessarily engaged our attention, as they deserved, as well as the magnificent viaduct which spans a deep valley before entering Aix-la-Chapelle, and exhibits two lofty rows of arches, one above another. The train was stopped in order to allow us to descend into the valley, that we might have a just idea of this splendid work, which alone cost 260,000 dollars.

A considerable number of spectators was assembled at the station, where we remained for more than half an hour ; amongst the number I recognised one of my old patients, the Frau von P***, who hastened to meet me, scarcely able to suppress her strong emotions of grateful remembrance and attachment. The train again proceeded on its way to Venders, and there, before we arrived at this frontier town, we inspected all the machinery for the removal of the carriages, which is worked by steam and notified by an electric telegraph. The country now became much more interesting. Valleys of various and characteristic forms, singular ravines, and rifts in the rocks, indicative of the violent commotions which had taken place during the formation of the strata, and old castles, such as Schloss Merode, with its numerous turrets, and an antiquated manor-house adorned with four round towers, furnished copious subjects for conversation.

In Verviers, on Belgian soil, the king was met by Herr von Konneritz, the Saxon ambassador, and Count d'Hann de Steenhuyze, the latter of whom was deputed by the King of Belgium to conduct his majesty to Brussels by a special train. Here, as well as in Liege, and at all the successive stations, a guard of honour, with military music, was placed to receive the king, and give him a festive greeting. On the other side of Liege we had an opportunity of examining the powerful engine which is employed to draw the train to the summit of the line, which here reaches a height of from 500 to 600 feet above the level of the sea. From this station the carriages rolled forward across a plain with a continuous but gentle declivity towards the sea, passing through Lou vain, Tirlemont, and Marines, to Brussels, where we arrived at five o'clock in the afternoon.

Great masses of people were assembled at the station, a magnificent regiment of horse-guards was drawn up to salute the king — the royal carriages in waiting. Having quickly descended from the railroad carriages, and passed over a path covered with carpets to the court equipages, we proceeded through the crowded streets to the Hotel Belle-vuc, surrounded by a troop of cavalry, and amidst the joyful peals of the church bells. At the hotel, again, a guard of honour was stationed, and soon after, the King of the Belgians paid a visit to our most gracious sovereign. In the meantime our carriages and servants also arrived from the railroad, and forthwith all the uniforms and court dresses were to be unpacked, to dress for a state dinner at the palace at half-past six.

AVe were presented to their gracious majesties. The dinner was splendid (some fifty covers), and the entertainment was opened by the performance of the overture to ' Oberon,' by the royal band. I was most agreeably placed beside a M. Couet, directeur de la liste civile. He appeared to me to be a young and interesting man. I was indebted to him for many useful and agreeable explanations. After dinner, the king entered into a long conversation with me. His majesty, by whom we were all invited to Laeken, expressed himself very favourably respecting the state of science in Germany, and added the expression of his desire to facilitate and promote, by every means in his power, the cultivation of the physical sciences in his own states. The king gives the impression of a refined, cautious, and experienced man of the world. He is in his fifty-fifth year, of healthy and vigorous appearance, and, like almost the whole of the Coburg race, possesses a good figure, rather above the middle stature. Her majesty the queen is small in stature, but of very agreeable exterior, and her features strongly resemble those of her father, Louis Philippe. It was about ten o'clock yesterday evening when we came home from dinner — a dinner which as far anticipated the season as it prolonged the clay, for there were ortolans and other similar rarities, strawberries, grapes, and peaches, of the richest description, together with all the choicest productions of the spring.

This morning being clear, but somewhat cold, induced the king to indulge in a walk through the city, in company with Herr von Konneritz, whom I joined. We traversed the park, with its beautiful tall lime-trees, and then a part of the new boulevards, all covered with new and elegant buildings, chiefly erected on speculation, but for the most part waste, and uninhabited. Having turned from thence into the old town, my steps were irresistibly attracted towards St. Gudule, and we entered the cathedral, where, fortunately, the service had not yet commenced. I again made my way to the magnificent pulpit, the recollection of whose splendid wood carvings had been ever fresh in my memory since I had seen them nine years before, and the poetical conception of the work again filled my mind with admiration. It is true I felt that the first impression had, in the mean time, insensibly strengthened in my mind, and that the reality no longer corresponded fully to the ideal. The idea of employing the whole materials from the wide-spreading tree of knowledge, whose stem constitutes the pedestal, to the desk, borders, and canopy of the pulpit, for depicting the history from the loss of Paradise to the triumph of faith, had formerly appeared to me as an extremely remarkable Christian myth, founded upon a deep view of human development and transitions, and it still made a powerful impression; but, on the other hand, I now perceived that the execution, although admirable and beautiful in all its parts, was altogether deficient in that peculiar beauty which belongs to the plastic arts. The inward fancy had, indeed, richly supplied all these deficiencies, and lent the captivating forms of a higher and nobler art to the figures of Adam and Eve, as well as to that of the Virgin above, enthroned upon the crescent moon, and killing the snake ; the reality, however, fell far short of the beauties which fancy had idealised — everywhere progress !

The lofty arches of the church still continued to produce a delightful impression, notwithstanding the new white colouring, which had better been omitted ; and the magnificent painted glass in the choir, with its historical delineations, charmed me as much as ever. We would willingly have delayed, in order to examine many of these beauties more in detail, but the pious congregation began to assemble, and great care is here taken to prevent every species of interruption. On leaving the church, it was just the proper time to visit the market, and to take a survey of the splendid old town house. In proceeding thither, we passed directly into the heart of this city, where the Parisian luxuries exhibited for sale in the cellars and on the stalls, all open, even on this Whitsunday morning, the multitude of buyers and sellers pursuing their busy occupation, the nationality of the dress, the women with the huge, bright brass pitchers, in which water is here carried, the large and singular two-wheeled cars, with one horse — all this for the first time realised the lively impression of a foreign populous capital. The town house is a truly magnificent edifice. The tower was in the course of reparation, and the lower part still surrounded with scaffolding ; the ornamental spire, with its beautiful filigree work, was already finished. On this occasion I was particularly struck with the fortification style of the cornices, windows, and turrets of the building, which arc, as it were, sublimed and elevated to the ornamental; so that the combination and result of the whole, and the peculiar delicacy and execution of the whole structure, were sufficient to engage long consideration. Time, however, pressed, and we returned to the hotel.

The same day — Evening.

After breakfast the royal carriages sent for our use were in waiting, and the whole party again drove to the town house, when the king was this time formally received by the city guards and the authorities, and conducted through the interior. A variety of stairs, passages, and chambers were ascended and passed through, but the interior disappointed the expectations of interest awakened by the exterior : — council-chamber — old tapestry — pictures of no value — nothing more. We next proceeded to the Geographical Institute of M. Vandermaelen, a private individual of great wealth, who, in connexion with his brother and brother-in-law, has got together a very large collection. The series of maps, especially of Belgium, appeared to be very remarkable. His collections in mineralogy, ornithology, and entomology were by no means small, to which may be added a number of sculls belonging to persons of foreign nations, and a variety of anatomical preparations ; and finally, his magnificent forcing-houses and beautiful garden were shown to his illustrious visiter. M. Vandermaelen is at present engaged in publishing a number of new, extensive, and beautifully engraved maps of Belgium, which, to judge by the rich materials at his disposal, must be possessed of the highest merit.