Jerusalem as it is

Front matter

S.

ed Ane Sener

Mo Patent,

Chapter I

‘Quitting Paris—On board at Marseilles—Sentimental Adieux— The expansive young Couple from the Midi—Medley of parting Expressions—Steaming out to Sea—Change in the Appearance of the Passengers—EHgyptian Ladies— Curious Questions— The East-Indian Lady — Caprera— Three Weeks with Garibaldt— Messma-—Alexandria—French Influence in Egypt’ . Awe : . . ; . . er re:

CHAPTER IT.

‘Cairo—Shepherd’s Hotel—Excursion to the Pyramids on Donkeys —Donkey Steeplechase—Backshish as a Power—Carried over a Stream by Natives—Mounting the Grand Pyramid—Lunching in its Shadow—Importunate Arabs—The Sphinx—A tenacious old Arab—A Race—Returning through Old Cairo— Wedding Procession—Street Life—Egyptian Donkeys—Their Nomenclature—Diminutive Eggs— Egg-hatching—Massacre of the Mamelukes by Mehemet Ali— The Esbekeyeh — Ceremony of the Doseh— Private Slave-markets—A Matrimonial Offer— L’Egypt, c’est le Nil—A Steamboat on the Nile— Corruption in the management of the Alexandria and Suez Railway Company—No Time-table—The Viceroy . p. 20

Chapter III

Departure from Alexandria—Arrival at Jaffa in Palestine—The Franciscan Convent-—Filthiness of Jaffa—House of Simon the Tanner—Bonaparte— Fable of the Mermaid Derceto— Beautiful Gardens outside the Town—An Arab Holy Man— Road to Jerusalem — Ramleh — Crusaders — Indifference of

V1 CONTENTS.

Bonaparte about the Holy City—Accommodation in the Convent—Up the Hills of Judea—Village of Abou Gosh, the Bedawee Robber—Valley of the Terebinth—Jewish Pilgrims— Arrival at the Holy City: 0.) § 4) «45,

Chapter IV

Hauser’s Hotel—A Singular Character—His inquisitiveness and ideas concerning the restoration of Palestine and his connection therewith ; : ‘ A ; - . p.dT

Chapter V

Visits to Church Dignitaries—Some account of the Order of Franciscans in Palestine—Monseigneur Joseph Valerga, the Latin Patriarch—A cordial reception—The Reverendissimo of the Franciscans—An Irish Monk—Greek Catholics—Maronites— Syrian Catholics—Armenian Catholics—Roman Catholics, or. Latins . ‘ A ; ; ‘ ; : ‘ - p. 63

Chapter VI

The Greek Church—Greek Monks and Priests—Theological Seminary—Russian-Greeks—The Reception of Greek Pilgrims— Generosity of Pilgrims—The Russian Pilgrim—The Patriarch’s. Vicar—Interview with him—Words of Wisdom . me

CHAPTER VIL.

The Syrian Bishop—Convent of St, Mark—Episode in the Life of the Bishop—His Drawing—Manuscripts—Loss of Property— Spoken Language of the Syrians , ° ; , » p88

Chapter VIII

Armenian Bishops—Monophysites—Literature of the Armenians. —Church of Saint James—Head of the Apostle— Ostrich Eggs—Chair of the Son of Zebedee—Armenian Painting of the Judgment— Bell of the Orient— The Catholicus of Etchmiazine—Dispersion of the Armenians since the Fifth Century—Their Characteristics—The only Race under Muslem rule which will ever revolutionise Turkey — Turkish

CONTENTS. Vil

Propitiation — Manuscripts —The Monk Isaiah, afterwards Patriarch , ‘ ; : ‘ ; ‘i : en. 9d

CHAPTER IX. The Superior of the Copt Convent—Coptic Manuscript with

‘ Arabic Interpretation—Some Account of the Copts—A Tradition—Abyssinians , ¢ ; : ° e ~ p. 103

Chapter X

Judah Turo’s Alms-house for Jews, usually called Montefiore’s Hospice—A Spanish Jewess—An Early Marriage—Road to Bethlehem—A Legend—View of the Places of the Birth and the Death—Rachel’s Tomb—Bethlehem—Greek Christmas— Ceremonies and Procession of the Greeks—Occupying the Bishop’s Chair—Grotto of the Nativity—Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est—Difficulty between the Greeks and Franciscans — Authenticity of the Sacred Grotto— Out in the Moonlight—Oratory of Saint Jerome—Tomb of Lady Paula and her Daughter—Church of the Nativity—Tradition of the Milk Grotto—Population of Bethlehem—Anecdote of Ibrahim Pasha , : : . : ; : <9, 109

Chapter XI

Jewish Cemetery in the Valley of Jehoshaphat—Road to Bethany —The Hamlet of Bethany—The Domestic Life of Martha and Mary—The Raising of Lazarus—Scene in the House of the Dead Man raised to Life—The alleged Tomb of Lazarus —Order of Saint Lazarus—The Saviour’s Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem—Conversation with my Companions concerning the Place of the Ascension , . . : ef) Deven

Chapter XII

Visit to the Pasha—Contrast between America and the Orient— The Pasha’s Interest in American Affairs—His Attendants in faded blue, and clerical-cut black Coats—Backshish—Mo- -hammedan Priests — Mohammedan Funeral Procession — Women mourning the Dead—The Cry of the Moazzin p, 147

Vili CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XI. .

An Oriental Bae gain , ; . : , ; ee . p. 155

Chapter XIV

Mount Olivet— Appearance of Jerusalem and the surrounding hills and valleys from the summit—Church of the Ascension —Devotional spirit of my companion, the Latin Priest—The Cavity in the Rock—The Grotto of Saint Pelagia, the Actress of Antioch—Spot where the Lord wept over Jerusalem— Tomb of the Prophets—Church of the Virgin Mary—Tomb of Joseph, the husband of Mary—Tomb of the Virgin Mother —Struggles between the Latins and Greeks for the possession of this Church—Doctrine of the Assumption—My Companion’s Reason for his Faith in the Doctrine—Site of Saint Stephen’s Martyrdom—Pillar of Absalom—Cave of Saint James—Its long-eared Occupant—Death of Saint James— Tomb of Zacharias—Fountain of the Virgin—Pools of Siloam —Isaiah’s Tree — Believing first and seeing afterwards — Gardens in Jehoshaphat—En Rogel—Gehenna—Idol of Moloch— The Field of Blood—Lower Pool of Gihon—'Traditionary spot where David saw the Wife of Uriah the Hittte gs pers ah 00 Pie date, oe

Chapter XV

Scene outside the Jaffa Gate in the Pilgrim Season—Variety of Nationalities—Jaded Quadrupeds—Turkish Custom-house— The Big-Tree Road—A Favourite Promenade— Groups of Women of the East—The Big Tree—Fuller’s Field—Convent of the Cross—Traditionary Spot where the Tree grew from which the Cross was made—Album of Autographs—Tomb of Helena—Mons, de Saulcy and his Discoveries—Hill of Scopus —Alexander the Great—Tomb of the J udges—The Echo— Cave of Jeremiah . . . . . . - p. 200

Chapter XVI

Excursion to Philip’s Fountain—Donkeys—The Woman-Donkey — Her indignant Husband — Horses— Mukarees — Riding about Jerusalem—The Camel , ° . ° » p. 215

CONTENTS. ix

Chapter XVII

Sheikh of the Mosque of Omar— Unexpected Osculation— Entrance-fee to the Mosque—The Sheikh’s Observations on the American War—The Mosque—Skeleton Outline of its History —Traditions of the Prophet Mohammed—His beloved Wife, Fatima—Borak—Ordeal of the Pillars—Matrimonial Happiness or Misery—Justinian’s Church—Tradition of the Well of the Leaf—Rags about the Window . : : Se 234.

Chapter XVIII

A Coptic. Funeral—American Cemetery—Latin Cemetery—Grave of an American—Costigan, the Irish Explorer—The French Pilgrim—Tomb of David—Account of Benjamin of Tudela— Exaggeration in the Orient—Sham Tomb of David, and the supposed real one—Adding Traditions—Fanatical Muslems— Lettering Grave-stones— Town House of Caiaphas— Place where the Cock crew when Peter denied his Master—Men knitting—Lepers : : ‘ ° . ‘ « p 241

Chapter XIX

Garden of Gethsemane—The Monk Angelo—Aged Olive-trees— The Night of the Agony—The mate al of Jesus—Flight of the Disciples : : ° ‘ , : « p.-259

Chapter XX

Via Dolorosa—The Latin Stations—Pretorium of Pilate—Place of the Seala Santa—Arch of Ecce Homo— Sepulchre of Jesus — Stations of the Oriental Churches — Pilgrims on the Via Dolorosa—The Flagellation—Wandering Jew—The Legend . . : ° ° ° ‘ : . p. 265

Chapter XXI

Dinner Table-talk at Hauser’s Hotel—Discussion concerning the ‘Identity of the Holy Sepulchre — Argument of the French Abbé in favour of the Present Site—Argument of the New Englander against it—Observations of the Old Lady in Bombazine—Views of the French Priest—The Disciple of Fergusson—Still another theory—The Old Lady’s conclusion— x CONTENTS.

Closing remark of the Abbé—Weak part in the Yankee’s reasoning . . é ‘ : . ° - + Dp 276

Chapter XXII

Church of the Holy Sepulchre—The Franciscans making their Stations—Members of the Church of England forming part. of the Procession—Chapel of the Apparition—Prison of Jesus —Tablet of the Cross—Division of the Garments—Chapel of Helena—Invention of the Cross—Calvary—Notre Dame des Douleurs—Tradition of the Virgin Mother—Stone of Unction —Head of Adam—Tomb of Christian Kings—Holy Sepulchre —Believers and Doubters . é d : ‘ sp. B19

Chapter XXIII

The Latin Tenebrae, and the Nox Tenebrosa, or the Ceremony of the Crucifixion, in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Turkish Peacemakers—Procession—Acting the Crucifixion—The v6les — of Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus— Effect upon the Lookers-on . 9. «+e te

Chapter XXIV

Holy Fire of the Greeks in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre-— Its Origin—Discountenanced by Intelligent Greeks—Appearance of the Church—Disorderly Conduct of the Pilgrims— The Crisis—Accident to the Fire-bishop—The Faithful burning themselves—Remarks of the Athenians—Ibrahim Pasha’s Proposition—The Imposture a Source of Revenue to the Church 3 , ; ‘ ‘ ‘ : : . p. 842

Chapter XXV

The Jewish Communities in Jerusalem—Sephardim and Aschkenazim—Khakham Bashi—Rabbi Taragan—Debts and Receipts of the Sephardim—Corruption amongst the Rabbis— Peruschim or Pharisees—Volhynian Chassidim— Austrian Chassidim—Chassidim Chabat—Warsovians—Anche Hod— Ingratitude of the Jews—The Presidents— Distribution of Money — Mugrabie Race—Karaites—Visit to their President — Synagogue— Humility of Jewish Women—Early Marriages , ‘ J : ‘ ‘ . : ‘ » pp. 353

CONTENTS. X1

Chapter XXVI

Wailing-place of the Jews—The Wailers—“ O Lord, how long”— Meeting on Common Ground—Legend of the Hand . p. 373

Chapter XXVIII

Excursion to Jordan and the Dead Sea—The Bedawin Guards— A Gallop—Wilderness of Judea—The Descent—Brook where Elijah was fed by. the Ravens—Ancient Jericho—Fountain healed by Elisha—Arab Dancer—The Jordan—A Swim— Pilgrims in the Stream—Latin Tradition—Modern Jericho and its Inhabitants— Under the Tents— Riding down the Plain—My Suggestion to the Ladies—The Dead Sea—Duc de Luyne’s Ship—Conduct of the Sheikh Mahmoud—A Bath in the Sea — Experiments— Mahmoud ‘doing me honour’— Apple of Sodom— Legend of Moses—Sham Bravery—Mar Saba . d : ; ° ‘ : : PF « 9.895

Chapter XXIX

Tattooing —In vogue amongst Ladies—Origin of the Practice —Prickly Jack — His Certificates— Those of the rival Tattooer . ° ‘ : . . : ; ‘ - p. 422

Chapter XXX

Proselyting by the Protestants— Arabs as Christians — Customs or Laws of Arabs in neighbouring Villages— Inheritance — Death of the Master of the House—In regard to Homicide -. j : ‘ ‘ F é : ‘ « p. 427

CHAPTER XXXTI.

The Russian Buildings, or New Jerusalem—The Chapel—Drunken Pilgrim—A Russian Wedding . : . . . p. 436

Xl CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII

Church of England on Mount Zion—lIts Interior and Congregation—Object of the Establishment of a Bishopric in Jerusalem —English and Prussian Copartnership— Instructions of the Archbishop of Canterbury— Bishop Alexander and his Attempts at Proselyting—English and American Missionaries —Their Work—Reasons for their want of Success—‘‘ Dead and Idolatrous Churches” —German Lutheran Element in the’ Mission—Bishop Gobat—Efforts at Converting the Jews —Aids thereto — Hospital — Library — House of Industry— Jewess’ Institution—The Agricultural Scheme—Boys’ School — Inquirers’ Home— Bible Dépot— Street-Preacher — Seripture-Readers—Lack of Success—A Barren Field—Cost of a Convert— Suggestions : ; ; : : » p, 442

Chapter I

Quitting Paris—On board at Marseilles—Sentimental Adieux— The expansive young Couple from the Midi—Medley of parting Expressions—Steaming out to Sea—Change in the Appearance of the Passengers— Egyptian Ladies— Curious Questions— The East-Indian Lady — Caprera— Three Weeks with Garibaldi—Messina Egypt.

Alexandria—French Influence in

Earuy one morning I found myself rolling down the Boulevard des Italiens in a voiture, on my way to the railway station for Marseilles. The morning was clear and gray, and there were but few of the inhabitants of the gay metropolis astir. Here and there, along the main artery of the city, I met a straggler whose disordered dress and pale face told of nighthours sacrificed to giddy pleasure,—a frail sister, in festive attire, hastening homeward to hide her pale a couple cheeks from the glare of opening day, of coquettish grisettes, with their little baskets on their arms, tripping cheerfully along to their magasins,—a workman in blouse marching sturdily forward to another day’s labour, or a stout Auyergnat sweeping the street with his long broom.

Arriving at Marseilles, I at once embarked on the steamer for Egypt. I was on board the vessel—one of the Messagerie Impériale line—about an hour before the departure, and whiled away the time im looking on at leave-takings of friends and relatives. The parties being principally French, the adieux were naturally demonstrative, but quite unaffected. They paid no attention to whether bystanders were looking or not; the scene might have taken place between four walls, as far as their appearing to take any notice of what was going on around them was concerned. Besides, the French are not a migratory people, as compared with the Anglo-Saxon ; and what appears a little jaunt to us seems quite a journey to them. The shedding of a tear, which we are disposed to regard as the exclusive privilege of women, was here shared in by the men,—quite a contrast to the Anglo-Saxon, who, when he does give way to the ‘ melting mood,” endeavours to coyer it up by looking grim, sonorously blowing his nose, and complaining of a cold,

AN EXPANSIVE COUPLE. S

I could not but overhear a portion of the conversation of an expansive young couple who stood near me:

‘Ah, Robert,” said a brunette from the Midi, ‘‘no one ever loved as I love you!”

‘¢ | never knew how much J loved you, my idol, until this hour of cruel separation!” responded Robert.

“¢ Tt will kill me!” accompanied with fresh tears, exclaimed the ‘‘idol.”” Then with quick and curious transition of thought she asked: ‘‘ Are the Egyptian women pretty down there, Robert ?”’ ~ He parried this sly feeler by saying :

‘¢ Ah! little difference it makes to me what they are; my heart is filled with your image, my soul.”

This was evidently consolatory to the young woman from the Midi, for she bestowed an osculation on the swarthy cheek of Robert.

_ % Besides, they are veiled,” added he, with perhaps a shade of regret in his voice.

’ said she, as she applied

“¢ Only below the eyes,’ the handkerchief to hers.

‘¢ But there are no eyes like yours, my dear,” eyeing tenderly the object of his affections, responded he.

After repeated pledges of constancy and demonstrations of affection, they separated after the last bell for the departure had rung, she singing out pathetically, with the inevitable handkerchief to her eyes, as she retired down the plank:

‘¢ And don’t forget to send me the Damascus silk, Robert!”

‘“‘ Count upon it, my angel,”’ answered the generous swain.

And the brunette took up a convenient position on the dock, determined to look on Robert as long as a speck of him should be visible—her handkerchief being all the while waved in giving out signals, except now and then, when.employed for another purpose. .

As the vessel moved away from the dock, amid the general fluttering of handkerchiefs, the parting expressions were shouted out as long as the parties were within earshot of each other, and were of quite a miscellaneous character :

‘* Diable m’emporte—”’

‘* To Shepherd’s Hotel, Cairo—”

*¢ Les Pyramides—”

THE ADIEUX. s

“¢ Je t’embrasse mille fois, mon 4me!”

** Le vin a l’ Hotel Abbat en Alexandrie.”’

** Adieu, France! la reine des nations—”’

‘Et des crapauds, sur le Nil.”

“Don’t get sea-sick, old boy! Put yourself ca se mange parfaitement outside of some brandy, and you will be outside of

9 _ danger.

‘Et de l’amour. C’est ca.”

This was a sample of the running fire that was kept up until we were beyond hearing; still the sense of sight was gratified for some time longer, during which the leave-takers peered out over the sea in the direction of the crowd on the dock, where the handkerchiefs were still waving. At length the land began to look misty in the distance, and gradually receded from view. With a stiff breeze and a fair head of steam, we were soon out of the harbour.

Two hours at sea produced a great change. Many of those who were full of talk and gibes and jests in starting were now painfully silent. A ghastly smile is seen nowhere in perfection but on the sea,—in the faces of the Mark Tapleys who endeavour to look jolly under distressing circumstances. This smile is more ghastly than a Death’s-head wreathed in flowers. It is meant to deceive, and deceives no one. Il-disguised suffering is plainly seen under this attempt at cheerfulness. Occasionally the victim goes so far as to make what is intended as a jocular remark, although it costs him a world of pain to do so. Then it is that he of a sound stomach, who may have been quite an ordinary mortal on land, becomes a superior being. The calmness with which he loiters about the deck, smoking a cigar or chatting with a friend, is provoking to the man with the inward trouble, who doubtless mentally observes that the sea is almost as great a leveller as death—that is, if he makes. any reflections at all, which is doubtful. If the man with the tranquil stomach be of a sympathising turn, he will probably inform his unfortunate neighbour that the great Nelson was sick every time he went to sea, or that the land-hero the first Napoleon was as helpless as an infant on salt-water, which possibly affords him a little consolation. Three hours at sea,

SEA-SICKNESS. 7 and all efforts at diseuise among the unfortunate are thrown away with the contents of their respective stomachs, when they go below, or stretch themselves out at full-length on the benches about the deck.

As I had the good fortune not to be affected as many of my fellow-passengers were, I proftered some assistance to those who seemed in need of it, and began to look about me and make some acquaintances. Among others I remarked half-a-dozen Latin priests, who were on their way to China by the Isthmus route; and as many French officers, and three or four English ladies,—all proceeding to the same destination. ‘These ladies were the wives of English officers in India, and were going out to join their husbands. Also eight or ten Sisters of Charity going to Beirtit and Tripoli, three or four employees of the Isthmus-Canal Company, bound for the scene of their operations, several French officials, stationed at Alexandria with their families, some Alexandrian merchants, and a few pilgrims to Jerusalem, comprised the principal part of the travellers aboard.

Towards evening I observed two ladies, who had come aboard attired in the last Parisian mode, now appeared habited in loose rich gowns, and Damascus kerchiefs round their heads, in Oriental style. A

Greek maid followed them with a large rich mat, which she spread on the deck, and on which the two ladies seated themselves in Turkish fashion. One of them, as soon as she was comfortably seated, produced a morocco-leather tobacco-pouch, made a cigarette, and puffed away with unmistakable satisfaction. I afterwards learned that these ladies were born, and had spent the best part of their lives, in Egypt, but were of French parentage, and were returning to their native country. In conversing with each other, they usually spoke Arabic, but occasionally French. The next day, as they spread their mat near where I was seated, a little child, the son of one of the ladies, made quite free with me, when his mother rebuked him. This broke the ice, and led to a conversation between us. They knew I was not a Frenchman. Was Ian Italian? No. AGerman? No. An Englishman? No. Ah, an American! What a long way off it must be, your country!

While these remarks were passing, the married lady had made and presented me with a cigarette as a matter of course, and invited me to a seat on the mat. I did not sit in Turkish fashion, but compromised the matter as best I could. These ladies seemed to be proficient in music, and acquainted with fashionable French literature, but knew scarcely any thing outside of their own little world. The

EGYPTIAN LADIES. 9 younger lady asked me naively if English were the language of my country, and if the inhabitants were usually of my complexion. The married lady, inclined to be fat, although young, would sit by the hour in a dreamy state, with her eyes almost closed ; indeed, I do not think I saw them opened to the natural width more than once during the passage, which was a pity, seeing that they were very pretty.

Until nearly the close of the first day one of the Hast-Indian ladies was quite merry, frequently at the expense of the unfortunate who were relieving themselves over the ship’s side. Her English was of a peculiar kind. For instance, she would say, ‘‘ Her husband is sicker than her,” which reminded me of | the speech of a belligerent little girl I once heard: “¢ Her thought her could whip I; but when her come to try, her found I could whip she.” In the course of conversation she informed me that the Yankees spoke such queer English, “they had such a twang with them.” Before night set in retribution came for jesting at the infirmities of others; the East Indian with difficulty reached the gangway, where she disappeared, and was not seen for a day or two afterwards.

The second day out I observed another English lady, a young amiable-looking person, quite alone on deck, and suffering from sea-sickness. Her servant, it seemed, was too ill to render her any assistance. As she was very thirsty, I brought her a lemonade ; and as the sea grew calm, she became better. I had the pleasure of attending to her little wants on several occasions afterwards, and we became quite good friends. She had spent a portion of her life in Italy, and had passed three weeks in the house of Garibaldi. We were passing the island of Caprera when she spoke of this, and we saw the house of the general from the ship with the aid of a glass—a white stone building, rather handsome as seen from the sea, and altogether isolated. It appears that she and another lady, in compliance with an invitation from Garibaldi, were hospitably domiciled under his roof during the time she had named. According to her account, a democratic state of things prevails in the general’s establishment; that the family proper consists of the general, his two sons, a couple of farm-labourers, and an old woman, who performs the offices of cook and chambermaid, but that there are always more than a score of guests at the house, three-fourths of whom are guests en permanence—a lot of military followers who have been with the general in some of his campaigns, and have hung on to him ever since. They all eat at the same

GARIBALDI’S HOME. TR time, and at the same table, except the old woman, who waits on the others as best she can. Thus the number at table is usually thirty, the general presiding at the head. |

‘The old woman,” went on to say my informant, *‘is not overly clean, and shuffles about in slippers run down at the heel; and of course the service is not of the best ; but as the general is satisfied, every body else must be. Presents of provisions arrive by every ship, which is once a-week; otherwise it would be difficult to see how this family would be provided for. When the provisions run short, which frequently occurs, Garibaldi, or one of his sons, takes a gun and hunts about the island for game, which is scarce. Ifthe hunter be successful, the game is at once brought to the house and served up for the next repast. It sometimes happens that they are obliged to live two or three days together almost entirely on fish. Then again, when a ship arrives, the table is well supplied,—to profusion even ; but it does not last over a day or two, when all are again reduced to short-commons. ‘The soil of the island is poor, and is cultivated by the general himself, his two sons, and the two labourers. The military hangers-on do nothing, and the general, in his simple-heartedness, takes care of them as if they were his children. Any

TZ JERUSALEM AS IT IS.

soldier who has fought under him may seek his hospitality, certain of a warm reception ; more, they may abuse it, as the sabreurs do who cluster about the general at present. They are a vulgar set of fellows, who are not ashamed to live off of a man who, they cannot help seeing, is much troubled to provide for them. The chief himself literally lives by the sweat of his brow, for he works in the fields every day. One would think these ex-soldiers would imitate such an example, but they are too lazy. Some of the chief’s friends have tried to persuade him to get rid of them, urging that it is not only a source of trouble to him personally, but of injury to the cause; but - Garibaldi will not listen to them, always replying that he will never turn his back on men who have fought for the freedom of their country. But the evil does not end here; the general’s two sons, from daily association with these men, are becoming coarse and ill-bred. The general is well educated, fond of reading, especially poetry, talks well and with energy, and is sometimes violent and obstinate. Where his feelings are enlisted, his judgment becomes clouded. He is naturally affectionate in his manner, especially towards animals. It is not unusual to see the horses poke their heads in at the window (which is always open) while the family are at table, when the general

DESCRIPTION OF GARIBALDI. 13 invariably treats them as favourites, and gives them something to eat from his own hand; and the animals seem to recognise him as soon as he approaches. The interior of the house presents a curious mélange of luxury and poverty. The general has received a number of presents, such as divans, pictures, carpets, mats, guitars, &e., which are scattered about here and there, with fishing-tackle, guns, farm-tools, &c. My companion and myself, however, before we left, prepared a surprise for the general, and arranged the drawing-room as well as we were able; for which we received no end of compliments from our host.

‘* Garibaldi is a good deal of a poet,” continued the lady; “‘ not that he has written any poetry that I know of, but he has the poetical feeling, which colours all his sentiments. Moral grandeur is the ereat feature in his character; in other respects I think he is an ordinary man. If Garibaldi ever secures the independence of Italy, I think it will only be when some man of sound judgment acquires sufficient influence over him to guide him.”

We did not reach Messina until after nightfall, when we anchored out in the harbour, some distance from the town, two or three hours, to wait for the mails, before proceeding on our journey. Much to my disappointment, we passed Mount Etna about four o’clock in the morning, while I was asleep. During our short stay at Messina, in company with a couple of my fellow-passengers, I took a walk through the dimly gas-lighted streets of the town, but, owing to the lateness of the hour, could not see much of the place.

After a pleasant passage of six days, on a flat sandy shore, rising but a few feet above the level of the sea, we saw Alexandria on our left, the lighthouse upon the site of the ancient Pharos, and one of the summer palaces of the viceroy; in the distance Pompey’s Pillar, isolated in its height from any steeple or tower in its neighbourhood ; and on the left, rather beyond the town, numerous windmills near the sea, and all in motion, driven by a stiff breeze from the Mediterranean. It occurred to me, as J saw the immense fans whirling around, that this would have been a field on which Don Quixote could have exercised his knightly prowess to his heart’s content.

As soon as we got into the harbour, a host ot scantily-dressed Arabs came out in clumsy boats to take us on shore, shouting and cesticulating in the most extravagant manner. Bidding adieu to some of my fellow-passengers, I descended the ship’s side, and was soon on land.

ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA, 15

On arriving at the Custom-house at the landing, our egress was barred and our passports demanded, which the officials could not read when produced. They made a show of reading, but only looked at the seal. It is the rule here for the official to retain the passport, to be delivered to the traveller’s consul, who in turn hands it to the owner. Next comes the searching of the luggage by the Custom-house officers, who are bare-legged natives. The search is a shameless one, and apt to rouse the ire of the Frank as he sees the dirty hands of an Arab crumpling his linen, opening little souvenirs, and fingering photographs. But all this may be avoided, by tipping discreetly to the amount of two or three shillings. This I afterwards learned. It is the first power in the country, as I discovered before I had been a day in the town, is this tipping business. The other two are, after backshish, the viceroy and the consuls. The latter, when united, can carry almost any measure they choose with the government, and disunited as they are, influence the viceroy greatly in what he does.

As the name Alexandria falls upon the ear, one recalls to mind some of the figures which stand out

St. Mark spreading the great in the world’s history, truths of the gospel; Origen straying from truth, and preaching his fallacious doctrine to his too-willing hearers; Athanasius battling for the right; and the royal coquette Cleopatra charming away the senses of the Roman warrior.

The ancient city, it appears, was some fifteen miles in length, as laid out by order of the great captain from whom it takes its name, and contained about 4,000 palaces, 4,000 baths, 400 theatres, and 12,000 shops. The library contained 400,000 volumes, and among much that was valuable, the Septuagint translation of the Bible. There was also, besides this principal one, the library in the Serapion, containing some 800,000 volumes. It was in reference to this collection of works that the well-known anecdote of the Khaliph Omar is told: “‘ If these books of the Greeks agree with the Koran, the Koran is sufficient without them, therefore they need not be preserved ; if they disagree, they are pernicious, and ought to be destroyed.”

Thus every hero has his day, and Alexander had his; then the Saracen came, and the beautiful city, with its palaces and public edifices, was swept away.