Japan: its architecture, art, and art manufactures

Preface

An apology is needed for adding to the number of our books on Japan. We have heard of the ways of the Japanese, of the pecuHarities of their manners, of their feasts and festivals, of the food they eat, and of the aspect of the country in which they live. My excuse for writing is a simple one — I am a specialist.

An architect and ornamentist by profession, and having knowledge of many manufacturing processes, I went to Japan to observe what an ordinary visitor would naturally pass unnoticed. As a specialist, and a specialist only, I submit this volume to public notice. When in Japan I engaged the best native photographer that I could find to take views for me ; thus I got not only architectural edifices, but also architectural details. I also engaged the best ornamentist in Kioto to make coloured drawings of temple decorations for me.

Many will be surprised when I say that as yet the English public know almost nothing, and even our architects very little, of Japanese architecture. Coloured illustrations are needed to give anything like a complete idea of the glories of Buddhistic art ; yet I hope that my book may throw some little light on Japanese building, and do something towards revealing the fact that Japan has had a great architectural history, although I have no chromatic illustrations. Ornament springs from architecture. I

250718 vi PREFACE.

have therefore endeavoured to trace its origin and development ; and for the first time, so far as I know, the growth of native conventional ornament is brought before the English reader.

Drawings of flowers, of birds, of fish, of insects, are all familiar to us ; but it is not generally known that just as the Greeks, Moors, and other peoples associated with their architecture certain conventional forms, so the Japanese have a national style of conventional ornament ; yet this is the case. To me the fact was almost unknown up to the time that I visited the country, although I had been an earnest student of Oriental art for nearly thirty years.

In my book I attempt to explain how the architecture resulted from climatic and religious influences, and how the ornaments with which domestic objects arc figured, and the very finish of the objects themselves, are traceable to religious teachings.

As a guest of the nation, I was not only permitted to enter sacred edifices (some of which had never before been trodden by European feet), but I had also opportunities for studying all forms of art industry. For the privileges enjoyed I shall ever feel under a debt of gratitude to the members of the Japanese Government. I had also the honour of presentation to His Majesty the Mikado, who himself ordered that I should have every facility for seeing what I wished.

While in Japan I made a daily record of what I saw and did ; and this record was roughly illustrated. I either bought or had taken for me about a thousand photographs, some being fifteen inches by eighteen, the others about nine inches by twelve. I had a multitude of small coloured drawings made of temple ornaments. I visited sixty -eight potteries, and some scores of manufacturers engaged in other industries. I also brought specimens of work from most of the factories visited.

As to the temples and shrines, I saw about a hundred of the finest in the countiy, to say nothing of the crowd of temples

PREFACE. vii

nestled together on the top of Mount Koya-zan, manj' of which I studied minutely. In seeing these things I travelled about two thousand miles ; but my stay was short, being limited to four months.

I mention these facts so that the reader may judge of my opportunities of study, and now I must leave my book in his hands.

I am much indebted to the painstaking care of Mr. Hundley, who has drawn the illustrations on wood for me, and to Mr. G. Pearson, the well-known wood engraver, who has cut the blocks. Both these gentlemen have exerted themselves in the kindest manner to render the illustrations such as I wished.

I have also to acknowledge the services of my daughters, who acted as my amanuenses, and thus rendered it possible for the book to be written during a long and painful illness from which I suffered while most of the letter -press was prepared. Their willing assistance was of great value to mc.

October 1881.

Chapter I

Yokohama — The Grand Hotel — Sights in the Streets — Jiniikishas — Japanese hospitality — Sachi — Yedo, or Tokio — Letter-writing — The Castle — Winter in Ja]ian — Temple of Shiba — Tombs of the Shoguns ..... Pages i - 1 8

CHAPTER H.

Yokohama — A fire in the hotel — A Japanese banquet — Japanese dancing-girls — Music — Eating a live fish — Hara-kiri — The Mikado — The New Year — Tokio firemen — Japanese matting — The Hamagoten palace .... 19-62

CHAPTER HI.

Preparation for long journey — l!y water to Kobe — Entrance of tlie Mikado into Kobe — Awadji, Sanda, Arima, Nara — The Mikado's antiquities . . . 63-ioj

CHAPTER IV.

The sacred dance — A feast night — Kioto — The royal collections — Osaka 104-1

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

The Japanese Calendar— Wakayania — -JaiJanesc culil ami Jaii.incse vegelalion — Koya-zan — Splendouv of shrines and of scenery — Sakai — News of revoU in Sats^una — Return to Osaka — Feast of the god of riclies . . . Pages 124-140

CHAPTER VI.

Temple of Kioto — ^Japanese estimate of Christianity — Picnics — Honest workmanship — Lacquer-work — Vahie of Corean ware — Tea-drinking ceremony — Otsu — P'utamigaura — Kamiji-yama . . . . . . 141-170

CHAPTER Vn.

Tidings ofreljellion — Ise — VokUaiclii — Manufactures of Nagoya — Comparative estimates of wealtli and skill — Castle of Nagoya — Sidsuoka — Fujiyama — Return to Yokohama

171-196

CHAPTER VHI.

A Shinto festival — Nikko — The great Sanctuary — Arrival at Tokio — Japanese reports and police supervision ...... 197-213

CHAPTER IX.

A Japanese blue-book — Object of my visit — Exportation of ginger — Manufacture of carpets, etc. ....... 214-224

CONTENTS. xi

Part II. Chapter I

Religion and Architecture ..... Pages 225-320

CHAPTER n.

Analogies and Symbols ...... 321-344

CHAPTER HI.

The Lacquer Man'ufactures ..... 345-36/

CHAPTER IV.

The Pottery Manufactures ..... 368-414

CHAPTER V.

The Metal Manufactures. ..... 415-430

CHAPTER VI.

On the means BY WHICH Fabrics receive Pattern . . 431-449

CHAPTER VII.

Minor Manufactures of Japan ..... 450-466

JAPAN

ITS ARCHITECTURE, ART, AND ART MANUFACTURES.

PART I.

CHAPTER I.

Yokohama — The Grand Hotel — Sights in the Streets — Jinrikishas — Japanese hospitality — Sachi — Yedo, or Tokio — Letter-writing — The Castle — Winter in Japan — Temple of Shiba — Tombs of the Shogims.

It was on the 26th day of December at 6.30 in the morning that I first saw Japan. As yet this strange country was enveloped in a soft mist above which the sun was only just rising, but as the mist dispersed we could see that the land w£is pleasantly undulating and richly wooded ; that in some of the valleys, fissures, and gorges nestled little picturesque villages ; that in sheltered spots palm-trees, with their plumous tops, rose high above the houses that found shelter beneath them, and that junks of quaint aspect ploughed the shallow waters of the coast.

A cry arises from the Japanese passengers, who are earnestlj' looking to the left (for we have several on board) — Fujiyama I I look in the direction in which they gaze, but see no mountain. The undulating land in front is perfectly distinct, and is thrown out on a background of gray-and-white cloud which rises high behind it ; but I see no mountain. Under the guidance, however, of Japanese friends, I look above these clouds, and there, at a vast height, shines the immaculate summit of Japan's peerless

B

2 JAPAhJ: ITS ARCHITECTURE,

c6he.' ■ I have's'ddri alihost c\cr\' alpine peak in the land of Tell ; I have viewed Monte Rosa from Zermat, Aosta, and Como ; I have gloried in the wild beaut)- of the Jungfrau and the precipitous heights of the Matterhorn ; but never before did^^^ a mountain so pure in its form, so imposing in its grancWI^ so impressive in its beauty, as tliat at which wc now gaze. I do not wonder at the Japanese endowing it with marvellous powers ; I do not wonder at this vast cone around which clouds love to sleep being regarded as the home of the dragon — the demon of the storm, — for surely this mountain is one of nature's grandest works !

Rounding a promontory wc soon enter the baj' of Yokohama, fire two cannon, and drop our anchor.

In a few minutes certain officials come on board, and the ship is surrounded by a score of native boats. Some belong to hotels, some seek to take passengers or merchandise on shore, some bring out servants of the company to which our ship belongs, and others a variety of things which it is impossible to describe. A scene of life and activity thus springs up around us of a character so novel as to be both interesting and amusing. A small steam-launch is now moored to the side of our great vessel, and General Saigo, the commander-in-chief of the Japanese army, who is on board, invites me to step into the launch and accompanjhim on shore : the launch is a Government boat which has been sent to convey the General to land.^ Accepting the kind invitation I am soon seated in the boat, where we find the son of the General, who is a cheerful smiling-faced urchin about two years old. No sooner does the father see the little fellow than he caresses him with that warm affection which the Japanese at all times show towards their children ; but there is no kissing, for kissing is unknown in the East, and while the General manifests his love for his child 1 yet feel that the little fellow has not received all his due, and I almost long to kiss him myself The screw of our little launch is soon in motion, and in a few minutes I stand on

' General .Saigo was ictiuning from America, where he had acted as the commissioner for Japan at the Philadelphia exhibition. I met General Saigo and liis party at San Francisco by arrangement, so that we might travel together to his country.

a land which, as a decorative artist, I have for years had an intense desire to see, whose works I have already learned to admire, and amidst a people who are saturated with the refinem^^^which spring only from an old civilisation. With the viewW" reaching my hotel I now get into a jinrikisha, a vehicle somewhat resembling a small hansom cab, only with a hood that shuts back. It is lighth' built, has two somewhat large wheels, and slender shafts united together by a tie - piece near their extremities. It is drawn by a man who gets between the shafts and most ably acts the part of the best of ponies, or sometimes by two, or even three men. In the latter cases the tandem principle is adopted, and the leaders are attached to the vehicle by thin ropes. As soon as I am seated in my carriage, which is scarcely large enough to contain my somewhat cumbrous body, my tandem coolies (for I have two) set off with a speed which is certainly astonishing, if not alarming, and I soon find myself at the entrance to the Grand Hotel — a European house — where I secure my room (terms three and a half dollars or fourteen shillings a da)', including e\-er)'thing save fire and wine).

Breakfast this morning was somewhat neglected, for the excitement of nearing land after a twenty-one days' sea-voyage had lessened our appetites. It seemed impossible to spare time for a hearty meal when, with the movement of our vessel through the water, shifting scenes both strange and beautiful were constantly presenting themselves to our sight. The keen, fresh, exhilarating air, the cloudless sky, the bright and cheering sunshine, and the gallop through the wind in my tiny carriage had caused nature to assert itself and demand some refreshment for the inner man.

Sitting down to table at the hotel I partook of a somewhat hurried meal. Fish, entrees, and joint were presented in due sequence, as though I were sitting in the Grand Hotel at Paris ; while grouped on dishes were tins of Crosse and Blackwell's potted meats, and Keiller's Dundee marmalade and jam. I confess that while these luxuries were in the most perfect state of preservation, and in every sense enjoyable, I was disappointed in

4 JAPAN: ITS ARCniTECTURE,

seeing such familiar forms of food instead of ilic tentacle of an octopus, the succulent shoot of a bamboo, the fin of a shark, or some other such natives dainties as I looked for.

Having finished my meal, I am joined by a gcii^^nn who is to act as my secretary while 1 am in the count^^bj- Prince Henri of Liechtenstein, and by Prince Alfred Montenuovo (two Austrian princes with whom I have been a fellow-passenger from San Francisco), and we start for a walk, the secretary being our guide. We pass through the European settlement of Yokohama, where beautiful villas — in character half English and half Japanese — nestle in lo\-el}- gardens, and on to the native town. Here all is strange and quaint be}'ond description. The shops are without fronts and their floors are raised above the ground by one high step ; they are matted, and the goods are displayed on stands which resemble the so-called " stage " of a greenhouse. Strange articles of food, strange people, strange objects meet the eye on every side. We stop, we look, we admire, we wonder. We are looked at ; smiles of amusement at the interest which is taken in things, to them common, meet us at every turn. We watch children play, — a little girl bounces a ball and turns round while the ball is ascending from the ground for her to hit again. We pass by a canal which is tunnelled through a hill, and on which the strangest of boats float ; we enter the precincts of a Buddhist Temple, but we must take our boots off before we cross the threshold. We return home by crossing " the bluffs," from which we have a glorious view of the town and the ba}-, and by a road which, bordered by curious fences (Figs, i to 15), winds its way through nurseries where strange trees abound. I need scarcely say that we have enjoyed our walk more than words can tell. Indeed it would be almost impossible to describe the impression of novelty left on our minds ; but to give the reader some notion of the strange aspect of things I may repeat a remark made b)' one of the Austrian princes during the stroll. " Had we died," he said, " and risen from the dead the scene presented could not be more strange."

The princes dine with me, and at 8.30 we set out again ; this time in jinrikishas, each drawn by one man, who now bears a lantern, as it is dark, and oft" we go at almost the pc^^W a race-horse. We laugh heartily at the shouts of the me^ffhe bobbing of the lanterns, the shaking of the vehicles, and the excitement of the furious run. In about fifteen minutes we alight in front of a large house, into one room of which we enter. Here our conductor orders for us a native repast, to which are to be added the pleasures of music and the dance. The room is a plain square, but there is European glass in the windows, and the doors have European fasteners. Mats cover the floor, and on the mats stand two brazen vessels (called hibachi), each containing a few bits of ignited charcoal ; and these primitive and insignificant fires afford the only means by which a Japanese room is warmed. We are favoured with Chinese chairs and two small tables, while the natives, who shortly come to serve the repast, or to amuse us by their music and dancing, kneel in front of us on the floor. Preparations having now been completed, a large lacquer tray is brought in, and placed in the centre of the group of kneeling female attendants. On this tray rests a dish of sliced raw, unsalted fish, with condiments of various kinds, all being arranged much like the French dish of Tcte de veau vinaigrette if tastefully garnished with leaves. European plates are used out of compliment to us strangers, but chop-sticks are supplied instead of knives and forks. We taste the dish after many unsuccessful attempts at getting the food to our mouths by the aid of the chop-sticks, but strange to say, the \iands have the flavours, and the condiments are almost tasteless. After the raw fish comes fried fish, and with it hot sachi.

Sachi, although generally regarded in England as a spirit, is in reality a white beer made from rice. Like all alcoholic drinks, sachi varies much in quality ; and the Japanese estimate its excellence by flavour, aroma, and other qualities, as we do our port and other wines. It is drunk both cold and warm, but it is not made hot by admixture with water, but is itself warmed ; and in this condition it is now offered to us.

Native Drawings of the Fences which uolnd Gardens.

Native Drawings uf the Fences \\hilh lolnu Gardens g.,.,.. ....... jA'PAn: its architecture,

Sachi cups are usually small earthen vessels of about two inches in diameter, much resembling in character shallow tea-cups, or deep saucers. They are without handle, and are offered to the guest empty after being placed in hot water for^Bfcw moments if he is to drink the sachi warm. Into these ^B^ty cups a second serving- maid pours the warm sachi from a delicately-formed china bottle.

Following the fish and the wine a dish of sea-slugs with herbs and sea-weed is served, but the mollusc is as tough as leather, and my powers of mastication are altogether overcome. After the repast, music begins with the samasin (banjo), and the coto (horizontal harp), together with certain drums (the tsudzumu and the taiko), while girls dance to the weird sounds — their motions being graceful but strange. This over, there is singing of native songs, after which we all leave, take our places in the jinrikishas, and are drawn home at almost lightning speed.

On the following morning I begin to make observations with some care. Yesterday everything was so new that impressions resulted chiefly from general effects, or curious incidents, while details were passed almost unnoticed. I now, however, seem to be more able to mark accurately what comes before me. Standing on the steps of our hotel, I glance upwards with the view of noticing the nature of the building in which I have for the present taken up my abode. To my astonishment what I yesterday regarded as a solid stone edifice turns out to be a mere wooden framework bearing on its surface thin slabs of stone, each of which is drilled partially through and is hung on two common nails.

This hotel is beautifully situated, having its chief face overlooking the sea, from which it is separated by a broad and wellmade road. On its right is a canal which here meets the ocean. As I stand on these steps I have above me a cloudless sky of the deepest blue, an ocean rippled by the smallest of waves, and reflecting the azure of the heavens above. The white sails of picturesque boats reflect the rays of the sun, hidden from my view by the house in front of which I stand ; while the air has a crispness, due to the slight frost of the night, which makes it in the highest degree exhilarating. I breakfast off fish, ham, eggs, and tea, as though I were sitting at ro}- own table in London, instead of being i 2,000 miles from home, and then set out to view thjjj^ps and their contents. During my walk I find many curios thaBrre to me quite irresistible, and I buy, I fear, in a truly reckless fashion. At 5.15 I return home somewhat tired, having had a perfect " field day " amidst the shops.

While I was dressing. Prince Henri came into my room and asked me to join him and Prince Montenuovo at dinner. Thus passed my second day in Japan.

I find the following scraps noted in mj' diar\- under date December 27th. It is customary here to go to a shop to select a number of goods, and then to ask the owner to send all the objects selected to your house, or hotel, for you to look over and decide upon at your leisure.

The people here are most polite and charming ; at one place while we were making purchases tea was served to us. The tea is by no means strong, is pale yellow (almost amber) in colour, and is drunk without milk or sugar. It is served in small cups without handles or saucers.

The native town of Yokohama is lit with gas, while the European quarter has at night dark streets. The foreign settler objects to a gas rate.

The next morning I go by appointment to Yedo (Tokio, or the northern capital) by 9.34 train. The railway connecting Yokohama (the port of Tokio) with Tokio is eighteen miles in length, is well built, and is one of two railways now existing in Japan ; the other railway connects Hiogo (Kobe) with Kioto (the southern capital). The Yokohama railway is of specially narrow gauge, and the carriages are m.ore like omnibuses than any to be found on our lines — being small in size and entered at the end. A train leaves Yokohama for Tokio, and Tokio for Yokohama, every hour of every day in the j'car, and every train carries mails ; hence, while Yedo and Yokohama are eighteen miles apart, there is a delivery of letters in both places every hour of every day.

These places, and intlced all the towns of Japan, are tiow connected by telegrai)h wires, by the agency of which messages can be sent in the native character or in most of the European languages ; but for conveying a message in a strange ton<a|^an extra fee is very reasonably demanded. ^^^

The line from Yokohama to Yedo skirts the bay throughout the greater portion of its length ; and the scenery along the route, though curious, presents few features of marked interest. The dresses, however, of the female peasantry who happen to be in holiday attire are quaint and pleasing, while the flowing robes of the men contrast favourably with our set and inartistic dress.

At Tokio, I am met by General Saigo and Mr. Sekisawa, — the latter being a gentleman who was one of our party from San Francisco to Japan. General Saigo has with him his carriage, which is of European make, and is drawn by a horse ; but a •' runner " precedes the carriage on foot, as was common in England in more early dajs. This practice of employing a running groom to precede the carriage is rendered necessary by the fact that horse carriages have but recently been introduced into Japan. For centuries the inhabitants of towns have been in the habit of walking in the middle of the streets, for no Japanese town that I remember has properly made footpaths at the sides of the roads ; and wells imperfectly protected are often situated in front of the shops.

General Saigo is a man of handsome appearance, and stately bearing, of about thirty-seven years of age ; like many southerners,^ he is by no means small of stature. His house, which we soon reach, is a wooden building in the English style. The floor of the room in which I am received is covered with a " tapestry " carpet, and in it stands an American stove, which can scarcely be regarded as beautiful, though it is probably useful. The furniture is of European character, but surely of American make, and in pattern resembles English furniture prior to 1862.

As we sat on European chairs, tea was served in nati\c stj'le. It had been arranged that I should visit Mr. Sano — one of the ministers ; but Japanese etiquette demands that a note be sent

' < jt'iieral Saigo is a native of the province of .Satsuma.

ART, AND ART MANUFACTURES ii

immediately before the visit, to ask if all things are ready for the reception ; General Saigo therefore writes the first Japanese letter which I have seen written.

•s writing-box is about i i inches in width, i 2 inches long, mches deep, and contains a roll of fibrous paper somewhat bibulous in character, a stick of Indian ink, a slab on which to mix the ink, a small water vessel, and a few brushes formed of vegetable hairs. From the box he takes the roll of paper, an inch or two of which he unrolls and arranges as flatly as possible. He next mixes a small quantity of ink, and then holding the roll of paper in his left hand, begins to write with a brush, previously dipped in the Indian ink, upon the spread out portion of the paper. The first character is made at the upper right-hand corner, the second follows immediately under- it, and so on, till a vertical column is formed, then a second column is written, and so on ; in each case the new line of writing being commenced at the top and finished at the bottom of the sheet, and being to the left of the previously written columns. When the letter is completed, the portion of the paper occupied by the writing is torn from the roll, and folded, and the letter is placed in a lacquer box, round which the writer ties a silk cord.^ A servant carries the box to the house of the receiver, who himself takes from the box the letter which has not been touched by the messenger. An answer comes in like form saying that all is ready, so we drive to Mr. Sano's house, which is a fine old Japanese building near the outskirts of the city. Two rooms at least of this thoroughl)- Japanese residence are furnished in Euroj^ean fashion, and of the residences belonging to Japanese ministers, or high officials, which I happened to see, this, as a specimen of European furnishing, was one of the most successful.

Mr. Sano was the commissioner representing the Japanese Government at the Vienna International Exhibition in the year 1873, and during his visit to Europe at this period he seems to have studied most carefully the art industries of the west, and the nature of our manufactures ; for the suggestions which he

' These boxes are sokl in England as -'glove-boxes.

I

12 JAPAN: ITS ARCHITECTURE, l|

made to his own people upon his return appear to have proved \ery vahiable to the industries of Japan.

During Mr. Sano's residence at Vienna he was requested by his government to make purchases of such manufactured .^^^ts as he thought Hkely to have an interest for the Japanes^^Fith the view of their being placed in a museum which was about to be established in Tokio, much after the plan of our South Kensington Museum. Unfortunately the goods selected were lost in Yedo Bay by the foundering there of the vessel which was chartered to convey them to Japan. In spite of this dire calamity, an excellent museum has been established in Tokio, of which Mr. Sano was the head and chief, although he has now relinquished the post in favour of Mr. Machida, a gentleman who has travelled in Europe, and who both speaks and writes English well.

Mr. Sano is a man of aristocratic bearing, and decidedly of large stature for a Japanese. He interests himself especially in the advancement of the art industries of his countr}' which have in a large degree been saved from the corrupting influences of European taste through his exertions.

After I had determined to leave England for Japan, my old friend Mr. Philip Cunliffe Owen (now Sir Philip) suggested to me that I should do what I could to repair the loss sustained by the Japanese-through the wreck of the vessel containing the specimens of European manufactures. I therefore appealed to my manufacturing friends ; and the result was that 1 took with me to Tokio a collection of objects such as could only prove valuable to the Imperial Museum. Sir Philip Owen gave me introductions to his Excellency Mr. Sano, General Saigo, and other Japanese ministers, and it is to him that I am indebted for the many valuable friends whom I still retain among the leading men of Japan.

The presentation of this gift from our manufacturers to the representatives of the Japanese Government was the object of my visit to Mr. Sano.

Mr. Sano received me most kindl}'. During our conversation (which we carried on through the kind and careful interpretation of Mr. Sckisawa^ tea was served in native fashion. After a sumptuous luncheon, serv-ed in European style and with European wines, General Saigo takes me to the Castle, where Mr. Sano and Mr. Asami (another of our American party, who is engaged under Mr^^po in translating European works pertaining to manufacturSWto the Japanese language) met us.