Ireland's welcome to the stranger; or An excursion through Ireland, in 1844 & 1845, for the purpose of personally investigating the condition of the poor. By A. Nicholson

Front matter

m W

IRELAND'S

WELCOME TO THE STRAHR.

Preface

A Preface is like a porter at the entrance of a castle or a dinner-party ; however necessary his attendance may be, and however dazzling his livery, he can expect but a hasty brush from the passers in ; it is the castle they want to see, it is the dinner they have come to eat. Knowing, however, that every public act demands a public explanation, I give my candid reasons for doing so strange a work, and for doing it in so strange a way.

We have had many " Pencillings by the Way," and *' Conciliation Halls," and " Killarney Lakes" from the tops of coaches and from smoking dinner tables. But one day's walk on mountain or bog, one night's lodging where the pig, and the ass, and horned oxen feed, " Like Aaron's serpent, swallows all the rest."

^' Remember, my children," said my father, '^ that the Irish are a suffering people ; and when they come to your doors, never send them empty away." It was in the garrets and cellars of New York that I first became acquainted with the Irish peasantry, and it was there I saw they were a suffering people. Their patience, their cheerfulness, their flow of blundering, hap-hazard, iv PREFACE.

happy wit, made them to me a distinct people from all I had seen. Often, when seated at my fireside, have I said to those most dear to my heart, " God will one day allow me to hreathe the mountain air of the sea-girt coast of Ireland — to sit down in their cabins, and there learn what soil has nurtured, what hardships have disciplined so hardy a race — so patient and so impetuous, so revengeful and so forgiving, so proud and so humble, so obstinate and so docile, so witty and so simple a people."

Those who then laughed at my vagaries, have all gone down to the dust. The world was before me, and all mankind my brethren. *' I have made you desolate. I want you for other purposes. Go, work in my vineyard," was the word. I conferred not with flesh and blood. No pope or priest, no minister or prelate augmented* my purse, to enable me to spy out the nakedness of the land. I came " a warfare at my own charges." I came to gather no legends of fairies or banshees, to pull down no monarchies, or set up any democracies ; but I came to glean after the reapers, to gather up the fragments, to see the poor peasant by wayside and in bog, in the field and by his peat fire, and to read to him the story of Calvary. I came to linger with the women at the foot of the cross, and go with them early to the sepulchre. I have done so ; and should the fastidious reader say that this condescending to men of low estate, this eating with publicans and sinners — above all, this lodging in a manger, is quite in bad odor if not in bad taste, he must be told it wag because there was no " room for me in the inn," or because my pained feet could go no further.

I had counted the cost. I knew there were professed

PREFACE. V

Christians in the nineteenth century, who would be forgetful to entertain strangers, and would ask, " where hast thou left those few sheep in the wilderness ?" I knew there were " doorkeepers in the house of God," who would say, " Sit thou here under my footstool," if " the gold ring and goodly apparel" were wanting ; and I knew that sAe, whose delicate foot never treads the threshold of the poor, would scruple the propriety if not the reputation of her who does it. I have not *' dipped my pen in gall" towards any of those ; I have mentioned no names where they could be readily avoided, and then, in most cases, where gratitude required me to do so.

I ask no reward — I ask no sympathy. This sowing by the side of all waters has been abundantly paid by the " God save ye kindly," and the " Fear not, I am with you.''

Reader, I would not be an egotist — I would not boast ; but I would speak of that Almighty Arm that sustained me, when, on a penny's worth of bread, I have walked over mountain and bog for twenty and twenty-three miles, resting upon a wall, by the side of a lake, or upon my basket, reading a, chapter in the sweet Word of Life to some listening laborer. And when at night-fall, in some humble lodging-house, my potatoe and salt were taken, my feet bathed, then could I sing of mercy ; then could I say, what lack I yet ^ I never had one fear by night or by day, nor ever cast a longing, lingering look behind, to my once loved home across the ocean.

Should the devout reader be disappointed at the want of gravity in some of the details, he can only be told that facts are delineated as they occurred ; not to make vi PREFACE.

a story or a book, but to present to the reader the rustic as he is — the seemly and the unseemly, the beautiful and the deformed, the consistent and the inconsistent. Whoever mixes awhile with the heterogeneous jumble of Irish sadness and Irish mirth, will find that to be grave at all times,

" Exceeds all power efface.'*

One great difficulty in the narration has been the pronoun J. Many interesting facts have been partially illustrated, and some wholly suppressed, because this officious letter must figure so prominently.

Allow me to say to every Christian and every philanthropist, ^^ Turn not away from your own flesh." There is a vast amount of talent in its native rubbish in the mountains of Kerry and Connemara, and in the bogs of Connaught. Far too many roses have already wasted their " sweetness on the desert air" — too many a dark-haired Kerry girl has lavished her graces on the mountain goat and sheep she has tended, without once reading the story of the Ruth and Rebecca whom she, in occupation, unknowingly imitates. I do not say, Do the work as I have done, but, Do it, and do it better. If my steps will not serve as a pattern, my aberrations may as a warning. Their proprieties and improprieties are before you ; and you must show me a " more excellent way," or I shall certainly do the same thing in the same manner, if again honored with the mission.

It was never my intention to tax the Irish public with another volume, added to the huge pile already written on Ireland. It was my design to go silently through among the poor, and tell the story to my own country-

PREFACE.

men ; that they might be induced to labor more untiringly and effectually for the destitute portion of this nation, who are daily landing upon their shores. But I heard the sound of an ^' abundance of rain ;'' the cloud is spreading over mountain top and lowly glen ; they that " for want and famine are desolate," are crying, " give us food to eat, we loathe this light manna ;" and from many a pulpit through the length and breadth of the land I hear, " Thrust in the sickle, for the harvest is ripe." The treasury is open, and the rich men are casting in their gifts. Accept the mite of the widow ; it is small indeed, but it is ^' all her living," and given heartily and cheerfully.

The reader is assured that nothing has been added to meet the state of the famine of 1846 and 1847. Facts are related as they occurred and were described in 1844 and 1845 ; and these facts then indicated that an explosion must soon take place, and that Ireland must be turned inside out ; so that all the world might see that, deformed as may be her surface, her vitals show a disease hereditary, obstinate, and still more odious, which opiates or ointments cannot cure. ''

Thanks to the Hibernian Bible Society, which furnished me with the Word of God in English and Irish, through the instrumentality of a friend, who also procured for me tracts and other suitable books for distribution, on my last tour round the coast. It was not till four excursions had been made in the interior, that my name and object were known. They, therefore, are not amenable for anything I have said or done. I was not a " chosen vessel" of theirs. God reward their bounty, by the finding " after many days," of this bread " cast

.4 riii PREFACE.

upon tlie waters." " Thou knowest not which shall prosper, either this or that.''''

Thanks to all those who have spoken kind words to the stranger ; and thanks to those who have felt called to give the distant look or the cool rebuke — the former have filled my heart with gratitude, and the latter have made me cling closer to the High Arm that sustained me.

ASENATH NICHOLSON.

Dublin, June 10th, 1847.

Chapter I

Departure from New York— The Author's Parentage— Fellow Passengers— Deatii on Board — A good Captain — Death of a Drunkard — Arrival at Liverpool — Voyage to Dublin and Arrival at Kingstown — A chapter of Accidents — Difficulty of obtaining Lodgings — A Morning Walk — Visit to a Roman Catholic Clergyman — The Linen Hall— The North Union Poor House— Letters of Introduction— A Strange Reception— Asylum for Unmarried Ladies 17

Chapter II

Dialogues with the Poor— An English Prophecy— Clontarf Castle— Plan for the Relief of the Destitute— A Dying Saint— Journey to Tullamore— Family Af. fliction — Visits to the Poor — The Jail — The Poorhouse — Irish Beggars — A Scene on leaving Tullamore — Return to Dublin — Extraordinary Spectacle on the Road— Connaught Laborers— The Two Convicts— A Man's Merit cannot be judged by his Coat — Another Visit to the Dying — A Military Congregation 35

CHAPTER HI.

Visit to the County of Wicklow — A Tremendous Coach-load — Horrors of the Journey — Safe Arrival and kind Reception — A Happy Family — Shelton Abbey — Arklow— Beautiful Scenery — Arklow Fishermen — Domestic Turmoil— Rathdrum— The Vale of Avoca— Wicklow Gold Mines— A Hungry Man— An Old War Horse— A Scriptural Answer— Visit to a Rectory 51

Chapter IV

The Church of Kilbride— A Methodist Minister— Methodism in Ireland— Visit to the Rectory — Tetotaiism unfashionable — Ameriean Courtesy to Females not universal in Ireland — The Seven Churches of Glendalough — Foolish Legends connected with this locality — Strange Exhibition of Party Spirit — Re-

tTirn to Dublin— Lady Harburton's School -. 68

1*

CONTENTS.

Chapter V

The Second Cabin of a Canal-Boat— Much ado about gixpeuee— A Blind Fiddler —A Jaunting Car Jaunt— Arriral at Kilkenny— Cordial Hospitality— Kilkenny Beggars— Journey to Urlingford— A Rural Physician— Kide in a Turf Kish —The Poor Widow's Welcome— A Country Dance— Departure of an Emigrant —Lamentations thereupon— Kind Reception in an intelligent Roman Catholic Family— An Irish Wake— A Faction- Fair at Urlingford— Costume of the Peasantry— Visit to a National School 83

Chapter VI

Cabin Life— Urlingford Spa— Rebuff from a Clergyman— New Birmingham Colliery— Village of Grange— The Police— A Good Methodist— Mr. Barker of Kilcooley— Yankee Doodle— Residence in the Neighborhood— Visit to Thurles —Ancient Abbey of Holy Cross— Journey to Clonmel, Dungarvan, and Cappoquin— Visit to the Trappist Monastery of Mount Mellary 99

CHAPTER Vn.

The spirit of Caste injurious in Ireland — Journey to Youghal — the Blessed Well of St. Dagan — Cabin Hospitality — Uncourteous Reception by Sir Richard Muagrave- Rebuff from a "great, good man"— Rejoicings at Lismore for O'Connell's Liberation — A Disaster — Brutality of an Inn-keeper's Son — Dungarvan — Two silent Quakeresses— Thoughts on Irish Hospitality— Unsuccessful Application to Bianconi— Strong National Peculiarities of the Irish— Uupopulari ty of Stepmothers— St. Patrick's Well— A Poor Old Woman— A Baptist Minister—Happy Molly, 121

CHAPTER Vni.

Nunnery at Thurles— Monks' School— Dialogues on the Road— Grateful Reflections—Nocturnal Alarm— Affecting Incident— A Gay Consumptive— Parting from True Friends — A Jolly Company — Lamentation on Lying— Walk to Roscrea— A Weariful Woman— A (centenarian— Charity Sermon— A Christian Sister— A Poor House— Visit to a Great Brewer— A Funeral— Father Mathew

—Remarkable Vivacity of the Irish— Self Denial— Short Commons A

Suug Protestant Farmer's Household— Cool Recepti on 138

CHAPTER IX.

Birr— A Miserable Protestant Lodging-house— A Rich Distiller's Family ruined by Intemperance— A Wealthy Eccentric— Lord Rosse's Telescope, and Lord Rosse— A Baptist Minister— Courtesy of the Children of the Irish Peasantry— Another Unfortunate Letter of Introduction — Walk from Ballinasloe to Lough rea— Miserable Condition of the Poor— A returned Emigrant— Fellow Travel-

CONTENTS.

lers— An Interesting Trio— Reading the Bible— A Scripture Discussion— A Connaught Catholic's Experience of Church-going— Market-day in Loughrea— A Shebeen House— A Pig's Honesty— Remorseless Staring— More Bible Reading —Scarcity of Female Beauty in Galway— Staring in Galway beyond Descrip. tion— Ancient Burial-ground— Visit to a Presbyterian Minister who had just married a Rich Wife— Laborers standing in the Market-place— Miserable Lodgings— Walk to Oranmore— The name of " American Stranger" a Key to the People's Heai-ta— A Connemara Girl 162

CHAPTER X.

Walk to Loughrea- Thoughts of Home— A New Day— A Fellow Traveller —Cabin Theology— Such a Bed !— Eyre-Court— Hearty Welcome in Banagher— An Anxious Mother— A Noble-hearted Daughter— Incursionof a Troop of Connaughtmen into an Inn, and how they behaved themselves — Visit to Mr. S. — Rejection— Christian kindness of Poor Mary and her Brother 189

CHAPTER XL

ovel Interior of a Cabin— No Lodging Place— Dreary walk through mud and rain to Roscrea— what to do for a bed ?— a profitable Sixpence— Start joyfully, with fine weather, and threepence in my purse— A Lift from a ''' Friend" — Money-letter at Urlingford— Reflections— Honesty and kindness of the poor Irish Peasantry — Parting from cordial friends — Garrulous fellow-traveller — Perilous position— Return to Dublin, and kind reception— Puzzling Voyage of Discovery 211

CHAPTER Xn.

start for another Tour— How to carry a heavy Load with little Trouble— A formidable Animal in the Caravan— Wicklow— Visit to a Poor Cabin, Half-a-crown earned in Three Months— Attentive Auditory— Wretch'Mi condition of a Sick Woman— The bright Old Man of the Mountain— Sabbath Hymn, and the Company collected thereby— The Scholar with his Iliad— Visit to Wicklow Lighthouses— Wezford— Infant School— A tolerant Catholic 222

CHAPTER Xni.

Public Buildings in Wexford— Unexpected Delay— American Family— A Rare Lady— Appreciation of Teachers— Doctors differ— Delightful Family — Overlading of Vehicles— Waterford—Clonmel— Car Travelling and Companions on the Road— Lodgings in Cork, .,,, ,. , 235 xii CONTENTS.

CK^VPTER XIV.

Reception from Father Mathew— The Aged Nun— Temperance Tea Party- Danger of becoming a Public Character — One Source of the Reverence paid to the Priest — Ursuline Conrent and its Elegancies— Sail to Cove— Beautiful Bay— Search fur Dr. Power— The Begging Whine— Trip to Blarney— Racy Old Priest—" The Blackguard Salt Herring''— Wonders of Blarney— Dr. Barter's Hydropathic Establishment— Our Jolly Priest is no Tetotaler— Walk to Cove— Pleasant Little Maidens— Delightful time passed in Dr. Power's Family 243

CHAPTER XV.

Cloyne— Difference between Upstarts and the really Wellbred— Practical Proofs of the same— Wonderful Natural Caves — City Jail of Cork — Humane Governor — Prison Discipline — Taking leave of a good man — Character of Father Mathew — No Monopoly in Orthodoxy — A Night in Bandon — A Peasant Family employed, a rare sight in Ireland— Arrival at the miserable town of Bantry.262

CHAPTER XVI.

Exploration in Ban try— Poverty, Wretchedness, and Filth of the Dwellings- Grand Poorhouse stauding unoccupied— Wigwam Row— My attendant. John — Employment a Novelty— Beautiful Bay of Bantry— Glengariff— Bad choice of a Lodging-house— A Motley Audience— No Refuge from the Staring — Morning Levee— Lord Bantry's Cottage— Hospitality at the Gatehouse— Call at my ill-chosen Lodgings 275

CHAPTER XVn.

Rambles in Glengariff— Household Manure— Kind Little Guide— A Gallant Offer— Splendid Interior of the Slated House— A Rare and Lofty i/arder— Perilous Transit — Wild Natives — Dwelling of the Three Sisters — Spiriinal Fallow Ground — Man sometimes behind the Lower Animals — The Author delivers a Short Sermon — Good-bye to Glengariff and the Hospitable Family of the Gatekeeper — Lakes and Mountains — Publican versus Priest — Ride among Turf Baskets— Early Matrimony 288

CHAPTER XVni.

Accident at Kenraare— Arrival at Ki Harney —Dread of Heretical Books— Turk Waterfall — Funeral Wail — America's good fame — Lions of the Lake — " Sweet Innisfallen"— White-robed Procession— A Third Funeral— Dry Bones— Bat-

CONTENTS. xiii tie of the Ghosts— '• Pair of Slippers"— Test of Orthodoxy— Staring 1 Staring !— Another Hospitable Gate-house— Lord Kenmare's Park— Calm Sabbath Morn— The Little Petitioner for the " Word of God"— A Door of Access.. 302

CHAPTER XIX.

Fellow Travellers on the Kerry Mountains— Bay of Ross by Moonlight—" Fine Stage-house" — Loss of Appetite — Feet-bathing Extraordinary — Kerry Trick — Glorious iSIorning on the Mountains, in spite of Hunger and Weariness — Cabin Courtesy — Women a Beast of Burden — Lodging-house at Cahirciveen — A Saucepan an Unattainable Luxury— Religion and Filth— Guests to the Fair— Curly-headed Biddy— Battle of the Sticks— Sabbath Services— Protestant Whiskey-Selling— Improved Quarters 319

CHAPTER XX.

An Americanized Irishman — Armed Defence — Modern Mermaids — Island of Valentia — Employment and a good Landlord — Conversible Coast Guard — A Child's Mute Appeal— Poverty and Low Rents— Ridiculous Old Custom — Derrynaue— O'Connell's Library— Cold Comfort— Hospitable Port in a Storm — Lighthearted Burdenbearers— Kerry Dancing and KerryiKindness 336

CHAPTER XXI.

Rough Road — A Kind Oifer declined— Lonely and Late — The Funeral Lament — Maurice Raheley's Lodging House — Perfumed Bedchamber— Sunrise on the Kerry Mountains — Novel Duet — Mountain Air or City Smoke? — Irish Roada — A Tetotaler in Bad Company Awful Night— Sabbath of Rest at Killarney — Gap of Dunloe — Guide Persecution — The " Crazy Woman" — Where to spend the night — Bright Wood Fire — Recollections of Childhood — Dinis Island —Debt of Gratitude 349

CHAPTER XXII.

Tralee— Public-house honesty— A '• Gentleman "—Mr. Walpole's Honorable Dealings — Christianity at Dingle — ''They always Stand" — One Bright Spot — The Converts — Education of the Lower Order — Nancy Brown's Parlor — Coquetry and Gallantry — Peasant Girl's Poetry — Learned Priest — Sybil Head — " Look ! Look ["—Fearless Children— Disappointment and Vexation— Candid Hotel-keeper— Banks of the Shannon 364

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XXIIL

Sail up the Shannon to Limerick — Poorhouse Stirabout — Sleepless Night at Ennis — Town without Bread — Grievous Ignorance — ^True Delivery of my one-armed Charioteer— Basket of Bones— My Carpet-bag ransacked— Learned Schoolmaster— Exchange of Compliments— Red Petticoats— Old Pedlar and his daughter— Temple of Nature— The back of the Barracks— :Marble Quarry — Completely Watersoaked — Connemara Hospitality — Bundles of Straw — Sab* bath in tho Mountain Cabiu 379

CHAPTER XXIV.

Clifden— Clifdeu Castle— Irish Holidays—Walk to Roundstone— Hardships of Irish Tenants — Three Guides pointing three different ways — Potatoes a Curse upon Ireland— A Rough and Weary road— Absence of Ti"ees— An aged Pilgrim—Good Wishes— A Timely Supply— Judicious Advice— A Kind Curate — A Connemara School— Ascent of the Diamond Mountain, and Adventure by the Way— Tully— No Bread to be had in the Town— The Isle of Oma, and the Natives thereof— Change for the better in Connemara- Retura to Clifden.395

CHAPTER XXV.

Misfortune in Clifden— Reverse of Fortune— An Aged Pilgrim —Eager Listeners — Visit to a Dying Man — Glorious Sunset — An officious Policeman — Lady Clare— Arrival in Galway— Obtrusiveness of the Women— A Sermon on Bap. tism — Journey to Westport — Introduction to Mr. Poundon — A devoted Presbyterian Minister— Sketch of a Christian :SIissionary, such as Ireland needs— Croagh Patrick— Hazardous Ascent to the Mountain— Grand Prospect from the Summit— Return to Westport— Doubts Removed— Filial Aflection— A Poor Protestant 415

CHAPTER XXVI.

Sunday Sermons— Newport— A Relic of Better Days— Arrival at Achill Sound, and Kind Reception from Mr. Savage and his Family— Visit to the Colony- Mr. Nangle's Protestant Missionary Settlement — Molly Vesey's Lodgings — Visit to the Schools at the Colony — Walk to the Keem Mountains — A Centenarian— The Amethyst Quarries— The Author's Acknowledgments and Censures Explained— Mr. Nangle's Weekday Lecture — Interview with Mr. and Mrs. Nangle— Doctrinal Conversion is not all that is due to the Convert from

CONTENTS. XV

Popery— A Reformed Roman Catholic Priest— Renewed Hospitality at the Sound— Another Short Visit to the Colony — Newport— Intemperance not Banished from the County of Mayo — Westport — Castlebar — Sligo — A Beautiful Gem— Hospitality in Death— Picturesque Scenery of the County of Sligo —Return to Dublin— The Mendicity Association 429

CHAPTER XXVII.

Mr. Nangle's Notice in the Achill Herald, of the Author's Visit to the Settlement— Remarks upon this Document and the motives which probably dictated it— Concluding Observations relative to the objects of the Writer's Tour in Ireland, and the Reception she met with from various Classes of the Community 451

IRELAND'S WELCOME TO THE STRANGER.

Chapter I

Departure from New York — The Author's Parentage — Fellow Passengers — Death on Board— A good Captain — Death of a Drunkard — Arrival at Liverpool — Voyage to Dublin and Arrival at Kingstown — A Chapter of Accidents— DifiBLculty of obtaining Lodgings — A Morning Walk — Visit to a Konian Catholio Clergyman — The Linen Hall — The North Union Poor House — Letters of Introduction—A Strange Keception— Asylum for Unmarried Ladies.

It was in tlie spring of 1844, May 16tli, that I stood upon the deck of the ship Brooklyn, and saw the last spire of New York recede in the distance. It was the home of my childhood — the land where hopes and disappointments had ebbed and flowed ; where I had looked out through smiles and tears, till the last earthly tie was severed ; and where the last tear was dried on the graves of those most loved. I had no more to shed. It was with a stoical indifference I heard the last farewell, and took the last grasp of the hand of him who asked, " When shall we look for you home P^ and then I shut myself into the narrow cabin, which was to be my parlor and bed-room during the voyage, heeding neither wind, nor wave, nor monster of the deep. It was not the rich, the honored, or the happy I was hoping to meet ; it was not their salutations or presents I was going to seek for. It was the poor and the outcast. I was about to visit those who in dens and caves of the earth, were " for-

18 THE VOYAGE. [chap. i.

gotten by their neidibors," and wlio heard no kinder voices than the whistling of the winds, or the screeching of some desolate owl amono; the mountains and*crao;s where they had made their habitations.

I was alone. Not a soul in the ship but the captain knew my name, or understood my object, and leaving the command of the vessel to him, and the working of the ropes to the sailors, I betook myself to the opening of my parcels, to ascertain what necessary supplies they contained for mind and body in a voyage like this.

" M}"- boast is not that I deduce my birth, From loins enthroned, and rulers of the earth; But higher far my proud pretensions rise, The child of parents passed into the skies."

My home education was of the most uncompromising kind. My parents were descended from the puritanical stock; they taught me that goodness alone was greatness ; that, in order rightly to estimate the worth of a man, his gold watch and equipage, his title and station, must be deducted ; that a conformity to the customs of the world, when they clashed with the sound principles of the gospel, or the strictest rules of morality, was not only a sin, but meanness of spirit. My father had read little and thought much ; and though somewhat orthodox, yet he cared not whether his neighbor prayed kneeling or standing, if he prayed in the true spirit, or whether the psalm were in a minor or a major key, or performed in common or triple time, if sung, making melody in the heart to God. He hung no quakers, nor put any men in a corner of the church because they had a colored skin. He rebuked sin in high places with fearlessness, and forgave all personal injuries before forgiveness was asked.

My mother remembered the poor, and entertained strangers ; hated oppression, scorned a mean act, and dealt justly by all. She taught me that in order to be healthy, I must rise early, and if I desired to take an honest breakfast with a proper relish, I must earn before eating it ; that to find friends, I must show

Chap. I.] The Voyage. 19

myself friendly ; that to live peaceably, I must allow my neighbors to go out and in, eat, drink, and dress when and how they liked ; always avoiding putting my head into a hornets' nest, if I would not be stung. *' And when you are sent from home," she emphatically said, " conduct yourself well, and your good name will take care of itself ; always remembering that a character which requires lawyers and doctors, ministers and elders, to look after it is not worth a groat." With these principles in my head, if not in my heart, I was sent into the world, to make my way, through good and through evil report, as best I could. I looked out upon the seas ; the vessel was well under weigh, and the dizzy passengers had already begun to exclaim, " O dear ! I am dreadfully sick."

My chum now entered ; we were shut in — and, like or dislike, there was no alternative ; snugly packed as we were, there was no escape, and we immediately set ourselves about, as Eve's daughters are wont to do, ascertaining each other's pedigree, object, andjdestination.

I found her to be an Irish lady, born and bred in the city of Dublin, but she had passed five years in the city of New York, to which she had become greatly attached. She had left her husband and three children to go. on business to Ireland, and though she cast many a " longing, lingering look " back to them, yet she never forgot that she must do good unto all when opportunity presented, and she never neglected the performance of that duty, when necessity required it. Her tall and noble figure, her high open forehead, united with an unpretending though dignified manner, and the benevolence of her heart, which beamed in her placid eye, made her to me an object not only of interest, but of warm attachment. Often when she returned to the berth from some errand of kindness among the sick and distressed have I said in my heart, " Who would not love such an augel of mercy .'" Thus was the beginning of my journey prosperous, and all anxiety for the :-^morrow was banished by the blessings of to-day.

20 THE VOYAGE. [chap. i.

Our cabin companions consisted of tlie widow of »a ' clergyman, with her son and daughter, who were returning from New York to England, their native country ; an Irishman, who had spent the last twenty-five years in America, a naval officer, an editor from the United States (a genuine American), and the young Irish wife of the mate, on a visit to ^' her people." These, with one exception, gave more cause of praise than blame, and made me quite willing to balance accounts with them all when we parted.

All was quiet after the first wrenchings were past. On the third morning after our departure, the captain came up from the steerage, saying, " We have had a death on board." The wife of a Scotchman occupied the same berth with her son, a boy of thirteen. She went to bed the preceding evening in as good health as when she came on board, and she slept the sleep of death in the night. Her husband and another son of twenty were in a berth above them, and knew nothing of the circumstance till the young boy awoke, and found his mother cold and stiff by his side.

On descending the steerage stairs, I saw the accompaniments of death as they never had been presented to my view before. The rough hands of the sailors were wrapping the slender body in hempen cloth, and fitting iron weights to the feet, to cause it to sink. The father and the eldest son looked silently, if not coldly on; whilst the younger boy, in a flood of grief, was interrupted occasionally by the stern command of his father, to ^' hold his tongue."

The body was placed on deck, and at twelve the captain assembled the crew, read some passages of Scripture, appropriate for the burial of the dead, prayed (for he was a man of prayer), and four sailors raised the board containing the body upon the railing of the deck, turning away their faces ; one dismal plunge was heard ; the parted wave closed again, and all was hushed, save the suppressed sobs of the young son. The captain whispered, " the husband was not kind," and each turned to his monotony again.