The Kafirs of the Hindu-Kush

Preface

In the year 1888, in company with Colonel Durand, C.B., then a young cavalry captain, I was travelling through the Astor Valley of Kashmir to Gilgit. On one memorable occasion we had made a double march. The track yas extremely arduous, and the waning light found us tired and jaded, and still some distance from camp. Silent and slow-footed, we rounded the Doian spur in the gathering darkness, and had begun the descent to the village, when a strange sight to the north-west startled us into open-eyed wonder. And indeed a wonderful picture lay spread out before and beneath us. It was bounded and restricted below by the large spurs which guard the mouth of the Astor Valley. Above, the pure sky domed over all, while in front a filmy veil of cloud was suspended, which seemed to magnify and accentuate, instead of dimming, the noble outlines which lay behind. Through this mysterious curtain could be seen a bold curve of the Indus flanked by mighty mountains, and the light yellowish-grey shades of the Sai Valley, which increased the general’ appearance of dream-like unreality. Beyond this, again, were the dark mountain ranges of the gloomy Gilgit region, divided by equally sombre ravines, while the eternal snows of the lovely Rakhipushi, calm and brooding, with a single cloud pennon streaming from its solitary peak, completed viii . PREFACE a background of surpassing beauty. The whelé scene was iteminated by a dying afterglow. Swiftly, aldzost instantaneously, the light failed, and the transhicent veil deepened and darkened so rapidly, that the visionlike picture was shut out almost as magically as it had flashed forth upon our senses.

As we turned away silently, the fantastic thought arose in wy mind that behind that transparency, that translucent cloud-film, a. veritable faery country - had . been revealed to me, stretching far inte the nothingness beyond; and an anxious doubt disturbed me lest a ‘should never be permitted to enter. that strange and enticing dreamland. J never revisit’. Deiaw, and look towards the Rakhipush? mountain, but the memory of that picture recurs to my mind; but now if I gave way to fantasy my veflections would fall upon the countries and people I had. visited through the mystertous cloud-curtain.

This book is the record of a journey to one of these countries, and of nearly a year spent amongst a wild and imteresting people.

Chapter I Page

The narrative—Second visit to Chitril—Permission of the Government of India to visit Kdfiristfn—Plan of preliminary visit— Village of Utziin —Azt the headman—Warning as to making presents—Torag Merak—His demands—Din Malik—Delay in starting from Utzin March to Gourdesh—Torag Merak’s desertion—‘lroublesome baggage-carriers—Difficult march—Torag Merak’s Musalmin son— Camp at Sdrat bridge—Cheerfulness and vivacity of Kafirs— Return journey—Trouble with baggage-porters again—Gourdesh to K4mdesh—Memorial gateway at mouth of Kamu Valley—Mergrom—A Kiifir city of refuge . - ; ‘ ‘ ‘ , . I

Chapter II

The narrative continued—Kaémdesh—Shrines to Gish and Moni—Dan Malik’s hospitality—Inquisitiveness of the lower classes—The headmen—Utah the priest—Chandlu Astin—Their suspicion of me—Subsequent friendliness—Their proposals—Volunteers for visit to India—Shermalik—Return to Chitrél—Raiding band of Madugdl Kifirs—Bahdur, their chief—Utzin again—Adopt Shermalik as my “son”—The ceremony—A quarrel—Start for India— Sayed Shah . . : . : . 5 - 3 . . 19.

Chapter III

The narrative continued—Arrival in India—Visit to England—Preparation for second visit to Kifiristin—Return to India—Completing my equipment in Srinagar—Miin Gul—His plan to exploit me—Final subjection—Engaged as my servant—Leave Srinagar for Gilgit—My Balti coolies—Their faithfulness and devotion— Catastrophe at Bunji—Gilgit—Start for Chitrél 2. 2... 33

Chapter IV

The narrative continued—Leave Chitril—Change of route—Rumour about Dir fanatics—Shah Baba, the Mulli of Dir—Hostile intentions—The Mehtar’s opposition—Final stipulation—Distrust of

Xx x CONTENTS my objects—His suspicion of the Government of India—His dread

PAGE of Afghanistan—Higs British-Kashmir subsidy—His endeavours to - defeat my plans—His indecision . A

Chapter V

The narrative continued—Start from Chitrél—Ghuldm Dustgir—Aiin —Bomboret—The Bomboret River—Bridges—Kalash dance— Tong Chandlu—The Parpit Pass—The Pittigul Valley—Troubles —Dismissal of the Chitrél Prince—Village of Pittigul—Trouble with Torag Merak and Chandlu—Shermalik’s Indian presents— Blackmailing—The Bashgul Valley—Bridges—Kamu— Pleasure of chief men at my visit—Restrained curiosity—Kamu to Bindram

—Kamdesh—Welcome from headmen—Their anxiety for me to take a wife

Chapter IX

The narrative continued—Universal opposition to my travelling about the country—Settling down—Appearance of Kafirs—Kafirs in their own country—Anxiety about my safety at night—Necessity for caution—Small swindles and thefts—Torag Merak’s threat to expel me from the valley—Diiliculty in getting supplies—Adverse arid friendly parties—The Mehtar’s influence against me—My

CONTENTS xi

PAGE arguments and assurances—Perpetual sacrifices to Imré and Gish —Plans to obtain solitude—Efforts to learn the Bashgul language ~-Torag Merak’s recipe to that end—Visit of Presungulis—Their amazement at my abode—Presungul national dance and music— Visit of Rimgulis—Their attire—Their departure—Their temerity —Rumours of fighting—Raids—Kafir stealthy revenge and cold-

blooded murder—Observances upon the return of successful braves 104

Chapter X

The narrative continued— Opposition to my leaving Kémdesh—I determine to visit the Dungul Valley—Start without escort—Shermalik’s indignation—The Arikon range—Kashtin men on a shooting expedition—Their attire—Ch4ri and the Kashtdns—-Supposed murder—-Cause of the quarrel—Shermalik’s love affairs— Camp in the Dungul Valley—Cause of feud between the Kashtdn and the Asmar people—the Kashtans are suspicious of my party —aAn anxious time—‘“Pshal” at Azharbai—-War party of wild Kifirs—Utah’s arrival—Description of Utah—A little story— Await return of raiders—Conversation—Shtaluk, the sick Katir— News of ancient rock inscriptions—Description of Azharbai—Precautions—The shout of victory—Kifirs on the war-path—Homeward journey—Warrior’s song of triumph—Return of main body of Kafirs—Their arms—TInterest in my sporting rifle—A feu de joie. 124

Chapter XI

Observations about the Kdfirs—Probable early history—<Aboriginal races—Native tradition—Estimate of the evidences of Kédfir origin —The physical characteristics of the people—Gracefulness—Agility —The Kéfir in repose—Kiifirs on the march—Kiifir faces and complexion—Hair—Characteristics of the Kdfir women—Diseases— General estimate—“ Locality ”—Power of sleeping . . : + 157

Chapter XII

Kafir character — Intrigue — Intellect of Kafirs — Inquisitiveness — Jealousy and cupidity — Inter-tribal hatreds — Blackmailing— Lying—Love of admiration and credit—Love of freedom—Personal dignity—Politeness—Reception of visitors—Hospitality— Family affection—Kindness to children and animals—KAfirs not cruel Bravery —— Loyalty and self-sacrifice—Quarrelsomeness— Peace-making—-Religious tolerance—Sociability and humour— Thievish instincts-—-Murder—The Kéfir ideal of a “good” man. 177 xil CONTENTS

PAGE

Chapter XIII

The narrative continued— Utah takes me to see the rock-markings—Our journey there—A bad bridge—The Kim frontier village of Urmir — Difficult pathways—A nerve-trying bridge—Village of Bagalgrom—Coffins—EffiziesStone sacred to the god Bagisht—An isolated Kafir—Markhor hunt—The marks in the rock—The sick, the maimed, and the blind at Bagalgrom—Embarrassing attentions of the people — Difficult return journey — Conversation — Lame Astén—Visit to the Kamu Valley— Unpleasant experiences . - 198

Chapter XIV

The narrative continued—Return from Kamu—I adopt Torag Merak as my “brother’—The ceremony—-Utah takes umbrage, and is also adopted as my brother—Chief reason for this custom amongst the Kafirs—Three days’ dancing in connection with erecting effigies to the dead—My attire on such special occasions—The male effigy—Description of the performers, dances, costumes, ceremonies, &c. -The band—The old men dancers—Addresses to the eftigies--The choir leader—The female efligy—Declamation by old Astén—Dancing and feasting for the female efligy—Place auz dames — November troubles — Growing discontent — Jealousy of Shermalik—Utah’s enmity—Squabbling all round by everybody ~—Bachik’s high-handedness—More quarrelling—Kamdesh again— Advantages of not knowing too much of a language—Dinner en famille with Torag Merak—Incidents . . ‘; ; ; + 213

Chapter XV

The narrative’continued—Present at an exclusive Jast ceremony—The Kifirs’ friendly bearing towards me—Small-pox and influenza— Inoculation—Carelessness of infection—Interest in vaccination— Pitiless weather—A -white woman—Gazab Shah—Shdhru the “pshur”—He sees a spirit—A kindly young brave’s homicides—

The youthful Chandlu Torag—Dinner with Utah—A considerate host-—-A’ suffering household—-Epidemic - of influenza—Rusalé’s treachery — Matters assume a dangerous complexion— A sorry triumph—I leave Kimdesh foratime . . . . . « 238

Chapter XVI

The narrative continued—Opposition to my journey—I am boycotted— Halt at Mergrom—-Send for Gul Muhammad Khan—Shooting in the Charadgul Valley—The Kim beg me to'return to Kimdesh— Zanr Malik—Run out of supplies—Lost—Shelter in the “ pshal”— Hospitable reception—A lively bearskin couch—Hidden position

CONTENTS of camp—A markhor hunt—Valley swarming with game—March from the Charadgul Valley—* Gabars ”—Birkot—Personal appearance of the Gabar—The Gabar women—Arandi—An easy rope-bridge—A quarrel—The Kiitirs give trouble—Bad behaviour of the people of N&ri—Hostility of the Malik—Nari—Return journey to Kimdesh—Smallpox in Mergrom—Night-in a cow-stable—Reach Kémdesh—Want of cordiality in the people—Renewed intrigues of the Mehtar of Chitral—His change of front—The Kim debate the advisability of detaining me a prisoner—Question satisfactorily arranged—Midn Gul as an intriguer—His attempt at blackmailing —Shermalik implores me to leave the valley—Boycotted again— Summoned to appear before the headmen—Arguments and threats —Torag Merak waxes abusive—Victory rests with me—Miin Gul a perpetual thorn in my side—Sojourn in Agatsi

CHAPTER XVII The narrative continued—Difticulty to obtain service of Kiufirs—Lutkér

The

~—Road to Agatsi—Bridge—Cool reception at Agatsi-—Misery of life in a “pshal”—Lutkir’s love story—Utah’s apotheosis as one of the Jast—Improving relations with the Kifirs—Sayed Shah’s defection —His departure for India—Kila Drosh—Shah-i-Mulk’s proposed fort at Narsut—Straits for food—Second visit to the Kunar Valley —Chitral{ escort—Riot at Arandi—The “ bloodshed” season— Umré Khan of Jandil—KAfir discontent with the Mehtar of Chitrél—Schemes of Mir Jin—Disputes between the Chitralis and the Kafirs reach an acute stage—The Mehtar's ultimatum—My journey to Lutdeh—Pleasant welcome oe. le

CHAPTER XVIII narrative continued—The village of Bragamatd]—-The Manangul torrent—The old village—Its destruction—The Jannahdiri Clan— -

Kain Mdré—Fort- villages peculiar to this part of the Bashgul Valley—The story of Karlah Jannah—His stronghold in Baddawan —Kéfir etiquette—Conyversation -upon religion—-Karlah Jannah’s surprise at Franks’ ignorance of Gish—His own ignorance about Gish—Attempt to prevent my crossing the Mandl Pass—Karlah’ Jannah’s pertinacity—The customary change of tactics—Strange behaviour of Shermalik—A difficult climb—Descent to the Minjan Valley—Camp—A day of tronble—The masterful Mersi—Peip— The Minjdnis—The women—The Mandd] Pass—The village of Palul—Return march—Reach Bragamattl— Letter from the Mebtar of Chitrél—Unsatisfactory news from Kiimdesh—Return to Kaémdesh—Friendly relations—Journey to the Presun planned—False rumours—Umré Khan’s messengers—Calm before storm xiii

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303,

Xiv

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XIX The hdrrative continued—Mersi again—Widing Chandlu in disgrace

Mir Jan’s efforts for Umré Khan—The question of building a house for me— Quarrel between the three divisions of the village— The issue—General disturbance in the upper village—From bad to worse—Testing my friendship—Impossible demands—I am dismissed from K4mdesh—Utah escorts me-out of the valley—Arrival at Lutdeh—The tribe absent raiding—The women dancing to Gish— General ill-fortune—March up the valley—Pshowar—Unpleasant experiences—Karlah Jannah receives me kindly—We become brothers—He escorts me up the Skorigui—Return to Lutdeh—Ten weary days there—Resolve to go to the a tribe—Shermalik joins me at Chibu with good news ‘

Chapter XX

The narrative continued—Reach Bagalgrom—I. C. Merak and Bahdur combine against me—Gokal Chand — Critical position—Opportune arrival of two Kim headmen—The 5th of September ; an exciting day—Extracts from diary—The successful coup—The 6th of September—Chandlu Astan’s miracle—A day of woe—Biblical form of grief—An impossible request—The Mehtar of Chitrdél’s envoy— The Mehtar’s price for K4m assistance—Flight of the Mehtar’s envoy—Revolt of the young “braves” against the Jast—Changes in tribal opinion—Hurried start for Presungul—Malkan’s ultimatum—My opponents form my escort—Cross the Kungani .

CHAPTER XXI The narrative continued—My escort behave abominably—Utah’s tact

My illness—Temporary desertion of escort—A crisis—Shtevgrom— My tent rushed—I am declared a prisoner—My escape—Manage to get clear of Shtevgrom—A perfect hiding-place—Return to Kimdesh—Hardships on the road—I get the whip-hand—Desire of the Kam to enter into an alliance with Umraé Khan—Invite guests to accompany me to India—Crowds of volunteers—Jealousy amongst the clans— Leave Kafiristén—Decision of the Jast—Halt in Chitral en route to Gilgit : . ‘ “ ‘ . , :

CHAPTER XXII The narrative concluded—Reach Gilgit—The Hunza-Nagar expedition

—I officiate as British Agent at een “P the idea of returning to Kéfiristén—Conclusions . . : F

PAGE

CONTENTS

Chapter XXIII

The Kafir Pantheon—Difficulty of investigation—Scepticism—Bashgulis and Presuns contrasted—Theology—List of the chief deities—Story of Bagisht—Legends of Imrdé—Imrd’s sacrifices and temples— Imrd’s handwriting—The mysterious hole—Imré’s iron bar—Other places sacred to Imra—Gods grouped for worship—Sacred stones outside temples—Moni—Other deities — Dizane — Nirmali — Krumai : ; 50° ae eo. ne

Chapter XXVII

Kéfir villages—Women’s quarters—The fort village—Villages built upon defensive positions—Populous villages—Walled villages— Undefended villages—The one-room house—Centre pillars—The roof—The smoke-hole—Houses of the better class—Katir houses— Houses of the Presun Kafirs—A Kafir tower—The dancing-place or “ gromma”—The Nirmali house—Pshals—Cooking utensils—Store vessels—KAfir fire-irons—Fixed furniture—The bedstead—Tables and stools—The “ Sheni ’—Cupboards and other receptacles .

xV

PAGE xvi CONTENTS

Chapter XXVIII

Kafi Hothing in general—Dress of the Siih-Posh—The goatskin—The “ Budzun”—Sewing—Women’s cotton clothes—The horned head-dress—Gaiters of the women—Kafir boots—Hunting-boots—Imported dress—Scarcity of clothing—Dress of the slaves—Sish-Posh blankets— Winter clothing —Dress of the Kashtén—Toilette of a Kashmir “masher ”—Dress of the Presuns—Dress of the Wai—A Jast hat—Dancing-turbans—Dancing-boots—Dancing ornaments of wonien—Two strange figures . : .

Chapter XXIX

The position of aL of clan— Divorce—Family life . .

- CHAPTER XXX

External trade—Exports—Measures and currency—Miscellaneous trades —Versatility of the craftsmen—Crops—Ploughing— Harrowing and sowing—Weeding and manuring—Irrigation—Threshing and winnowing—Terraced fields—Cattle—Wine-making—Dried grape cakes ‘ . . . . . . . . . . °

Chapter XXXI

Tribal feuds—Blood for blood—The murder at Nari fort-—The avenging of Dan Malik—Beginning of war—Casus belli—Inter-tribal jealousy —Foreign foes—Musalmdn hatred of the Kdfirs—Peace-making— Foreign alliances—Methods of warfure—Guerilla warfare—Provisions—Celebrating a triumph—Weapons—The Kafir dagger— Bows and arrows—Spears—Matchlocks—Shields and swords—The cannon of the Kim . : : : : . . . . .

Chapter XXXII

The Bashgul K4fir festivals—The seasons-—-Various dates of festivals— The Agar—Festivals beginning in the éVening—Giché—Veron— + Taska—The throwing of the Shil—Marnma—Duban—Azhindra—

Diran—Gerdulow—Patilo—Dizanedu-—Munzilo—Nilu .

CHAPTER XXXIITI

Childbirth—Naming of children—Kafir names—Babies—Puberty— Children’s games—-Men’s games— Archery—Rolling walnuts—Aluts -~Miscellaneous sports—Stone-bow practice—Swimming—Occasions

PAGE

CONTENTS . we of dancing—The dances of the Jast te the gods—Music—The Pshur—Fhe Debilila—Women dancers—Qutdoor dances—Dances to the illustrious dead—The homicides’ Uhanksgiving dance to Gish—Phe emen’s dance to the gods whén the meii are xaiding— Bancing in private houses—Wai dances—Music and singing wae 596 CHAPTER XXXIV .

Funeral. ceremonies—Young chiidven— Torag’ Merak’s wife—Sunra and Nilha—Basti— At the a dribious struchite—Litdle effigies—Gateways : : plat g . 630

CHAPTER XXXV

Sport j in Kifizisttn— Partridges— Pheasants— Benvs — Markhor—Phe commonest diseases—Smalt-pox — Ulcerative disease—Goitre— Medicat acquitements of Kifirs—Astronomy . . ele 652

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Torag Merak . . -. wwe Jace page 6 Dan Mauk. . . Os. Sle. »” page 12 Sacriricine Goats: Pinine: OFF THE Broop- Sariep: “ARROW ,, 15 MEMORIAL Gateway . . ; . ; eats ; » 17 KAMDESE. . . F * a0° eel ‘ » 20 TROUBLESOME Visrrors - oo. ele Lo face page 22 Utan’s CHILDREN . . wt. ee pet’ 25 A Quarretsome KAvin . . . . * . St 10 face page 29 SHERMALIE . ; j . : . : : . page 3s Acoipent at Bungr . ‘ : ‘ : ws ose : » 39 Torag MERAK . . : - ‘ : ; » Nee og 55 A K&Arin Briver Pe en Se KArir LanpscarE. . . ‘ : : . To face paye 68 | Presun or Viron Mun. A uss. ; . pays. 78 Sumrrs Feasr .. GP Net ME = 0 face page 94 Gtsn’s (THE War Gop) SHRINE : oe page 114 SHERMALIK INSTRUCTING ME IN THE KAFIR Lanovaee, To face page 116 CHARA -AND THE KasHrAn ; ‘ . ; . ni 128 Paolrying THE RAIDERS. : . F : a re 134 Uran’s House . «wee page 139 Tur Story or UraH. «weet To fate paye 143 SHERMALIK AND Utan on Guard. «wl, eo 148 Sona or TrRiuMPH . ‘ , : : : , 53 152 KArim Warrare , , : , ‘ a 162 KArirn Woman WITH Comtoan Basker . . ; 173 THe TRADER AND THE GIRLS . 3 i : ‘ 4 194 Kértr Carving. 2. wee . page 202 Descent or THE Rock... ae “Lo face page 204 BrorHerHoop CEREMONY WITH Tonac Mprak', ‘ a 213 A Dance wits Errigigs . . 2... » 26 Fuiaut oF SHERMALIK a‘ . : ‘ : , » «229 Toraa Merak Escorts ME HomE . ‘ . ‘ ” 237 SHAHRU SEES A SPIRIT : 7 P : : : - 242 Saauru Be Ce pete 245 RusatA TURNS Tae: . : : . , T'o face page 251 In tan PsHan . ye os eae a <208

Tar ParHaN AND THE Maxie : F ; : . ”

Bautis in THE SNOW. «ee es » 274 xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PRacticE witH Bows anp ARROWS Karwan JANNAH’S STRONGHOLD KAFIRS dit THE Snow.

KArirn LANDSCAPE

WATCHING FOR THE Mssencrrs Walting FOR THE ATTACK .

Tue Tent RusHeD

EFFIGIEs. : 7 DIZANE’s TEMPLE A SyHauru CHasING THE CHILDREN Arom’s SHRINE

INVOKING THE Gops

AN OFFERING at GisH’s Sante PREPARING FOR THE FEast At tHe Pusiic BANQuet THE SANOWKUN CEREMONY Apsal VILLAGE

A Corner In KAmpEsH Burtpina a House ‘ Tue Hies-Prisst’s House .

CorNER OF A VILLAGE WITH ALTAR Srone Boys 1x GoatsKINs

THRESHING .

SLAVE WEAVING :

PLOUGHING

New Year’s Day Cunmiony THE Srrititui NAt

Boys’ Game.

Tse Game or “ ree SHootine with Stong-Bow

THE Women’s DaNcké To THE GoDs WHEN THE as are Rarpine R F ‘ Women WalILING OVER THE Erricy .

THe SHENITAN (CEMETERY) EFFIGIES .

MEMORIALS OF THE BRave

‘ » 320 ” 341

» 348

” 352

” 363

~» 364

»” 402

” 409

” 421

» 426

. 452

” 456

» 402

~ + oy 485 To face page 488

» 495

‘ page 544 To face page 549

” 553

» 559

” 573

To fuce page 583

” 611

” 612

” 622

” 638

” 642

To Jace page 648

THE

KAFIRS OF THE HINDU-KUSH

Chapter I

The narrative—Second visit to Chitral—Permission of the Government of India to visit Kdfiristin—Plan of preliminary visit—Village of Utzin— Azi the headman—Warning as to making presents—~Torag Merak— His demands—Din Malik—Delay in starting from Utztin—March to Gourdesh—Torag Merak’s desertion—Troublesome baggage-carriers— Difficult march—Torag Merak’s Musalman son—Camp at Sirat bridge— Cheerfulness and vivacity of Kafirs—Return journey—Trouble with baggage-porters again—Gourdesh to Kamdesh—Memorial gateway at mouth of Kamu Valley—Mergrom—A Kafir city of refuge.

In October 1889 I found myself, for the second time, the official guest of the Mehtar of Chitral at the fort which constitutes the capital of that country. The previous year had seen me at the same place in a similar capacity. ; In those days Chitrdl was very little known, and the Europeans who had visited it could be counted on the fingers. The people and the country were alike interesting—the former for their picturesque light-heartedness, the latter for its magnificent scenery, and both for their freshness and novelty. But it was not only the Chitralis themselves that had excited my curiosity and interest,. for at the Mehtar’s capital, on my first visit, I had seen several Kadfirs of the Hindu- Kush, and had heard many tales of their strange ae and customs. The people of Kafiristén had first excited my curiosity during the Afghan war of 1879-80, and seeing them now in the flesh, my interest in them became so intensified, that the desire to see them in their own homes was irresistible. I had accordingly asked the Government of India to be allowed to make an attempt to enter the Kafir country, and the permission was accorded me while actually on my way to Chitral for the second time.

It should be mentioned that the only previous Euro- © pean who had attempted to enter K4firistan was General (then Colonel) Lockhart, when in command of a Mission to examine the Hindu-Kush passes in 1885-86. He had penetrated into the upper part of the Bashgul Valley, and remained there for a few days; but jealousies having broken out.amongst the Kéafir headmen, he had been compelled to leave the country and return to Chitral.

As soon as permission had been granted me to make an attempt to get into K4firistan and study its people, my line of action had at once been decided upon, and by the time ‘Chitral was reached, the details of the plan had arranged themselves in my mind. Lockhart’s experiences, and his partial failure, had convinced me that the great danger to my enterprise lay in exciting the jealousy of the Kafir tribesmen one for the other. It also seemed well for me not to follow in Lockhart’s footsteps, and try to visit the tribe which inhabits the upper part of the Bashgul Valley, but to make a fresh departure, and see if the famous Kam tribe would not accept me as a visitor. There were peculiar inducements to lead me to try to get into the Kam country. The Chitrdlis declared that those people and the Wai tribe were the fiercest

THE KAM TRIBE 3 and most intractable of all the Kafir tribes, while of those two the K&m were the most to be dreaded for their military prowess. It also happened that at that time the Kam were on the best of terms with the Mehtar of Chitral, and acknowledged- his suzerainty, which, if ‘only: nominal submission on their part, was nevertheless. very convenient for my plans. The Mehtar of Chitrdl,; on his ‘part, was désirous of showing the éxtent of his power over the K4firs, and on my applying to him for help, assured me that there would be no difficulty about my going to Kamdesh, under his auspices, for a few days.

My plan was to get to Kamdesh for a short visit, conciliate the people, and persuade one or more of the headmen tg accompany me to India, where, while we were learning to understand one another in the Urdu or the Bashgul language, there would be leisure to gain special information wherewith to equip myself for a prolonged visit to Kafiristin. It so happened that there were at the time in Chitrdl several of the Kim headmen, and they readily consented to take me to their chief village, and bring me back again to Chitrdl. One of them, indeed, a very rich and influential man, tried to make conditions, while his looks and manner left much to be desired ; but all further objections were anticipated by my riding off at once to the Kéfir frontier, leaving my Kaéfir friends to follow and join me there, which they did two days later; for they are not horsemen, and always journey on foot. My baggage was light, but it was soon seen that it must be still further diminished. Finally, it consisted of a sleeping-bag, a small box of medicines, and a few cooking things.

c

The third day after leaving Chitral found me and my Kéfir friends at the village of Utzan, a community of Kalash Kafirs, who, as will be explained subsequently, are not the true independent Kéfirs of the Hindu-Kush, but an idolatrous tribe of slaves subject to the Mehtar of Chitrél, and living within his borders. The village of Utzin numbers thirty or forty domiciles, which are perched on the top of a conical rock 700 feet high, in the middle of fields which lie in an amphitheatre of hills. The vil- . lagers were friendly, and carried themselves with an air of independence which surprised me, for my experience of Kalash Kafirs was that they were a most servile and degraded race. They, however, informed me that the Utzin differed from all the other Kalash in having a strong infusion of Bashgul Valley blood in their veins, and were consequently closely allied to the true Kafirs. These people are known to be turbulent, and to obey the Mehtar’s orders with discrimination, reserving to themselves the right of private judgment on such subjects: they generally refused to carry loads.

The headman, Az4, received me with great empressement. We climbed the steep, difficult rock together and inspected the village, visited the place where the village effigies were kept under a shed, and finally descended again to my camping-place under a horse-chestnut tree. My friend hospitably invited me to share his home and be his guest; but not being case-hardened to Kéfir dirtiness, I politely declined the kind offer, and spread my sleeping-bag under the tree. Azad sat down to entertain me in the kindest way, and told me about his village, and how his mother came from “great” Kdfiristin and married the Utzin headman. He spoke with conscious

THE HEADMAN AZA 5 pride of birth, and related with exultation that the village possessed a shrine to Gish, the great war-god of the _Ké&firs, which had been erected by his father, no doubt at the instigation of the Bashgul Valley woman and her relations. Finally, he went on to more than hint that his influence was paramount throughout KAéfiristin, and that with his help there would be no difficulty in my going anywhere and doing just as I pleased. As every Kéafir who had spoken to me had confided to me the same information and the same assurances, and undoubtedly with the identical object, to get the first milking of the stranger cow secretly and confidentially, Azé&s remarks were received by me with considerable mental reservation, although it seemed a matter of congratulation that so many people were anxious to help me for pay. But several Chitrdéli and other friends, who knew the Kéfirs well, had earnestly warned me against the positive danger which would be incurred unless my gifts were given discreetly, equitably, and openly. The advice was not only good, it was invaluable; and then, and afterwards, it was never disregarded without my having to pay a penalty.

After Az& had brought me supplies and made all possible arrangements for my comfort, he retired to his home, carrying all my Kafir friends with him, but not before one of them, Torag Merak, had tried an experiment upon me. This man was of great wealth and importance in the K4m tribe, and was probably the richest man in the whole of Kéfiristén. In his youth he had been a famous warrior, and’as a peculiar mark of distinction he carried a walking-stick to which was attached a small brass bell; so one always knew when he was near at hand. I shall never forget his appearance on, the very evening. referred to. He had been troublesome at Chitr4l, and had tried insolence and fawning by turns with Captain Durand, in the hope of inducing the latter to give him some of the presents brought to Chitrél for political purposes, and had eventually been conciliated (for my sake) with a flaming red broad-cloth robe down to his heels, and one of those bright brass atrocities known as a Benares shield. These he now gravely assumed, and stalked up and down, the last of the sun now and then lighting up his striking coat, or setting the shield on fire for the instant. He had stiong Semitic features, and his long locks, matted into rat’s-tails, fell upon his gaudy shoulders, while occasionally he turned a prowd glance to see if the stranger appreciated his grandeur. He was a delightful object, and made a great impression upon me, especially as this picturesque, fantastic individual was generally credited with having slain, with his own hand, more than a hundred victims, many of them, alas! helpless women and poor children. The exact number of the killed may have been exaggerated, but not very greatly, while about the slaughter of women and children there is no doubt at all. At length, having tired of parading his splendour, he sent me an abrupt message, through my Pathan servant, that unless he was at once supplied with thirty rifles and a large sum in rupees, it would be well for me to return to Chitrdl forthwith.

In reply, it was pointed out to Torag Merak, that rifles could not be created on the spur of the moment, ‘and he could himself perceive that the only, one with me was an express rifle; and that neither were there

TORAG MERAK.

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CARRIERS HARD TO PROCURE 9 more rupees in my possession than the small sum absolutely necessary for road expenses. He blustered _ and fumed a little, but received no help from his fellow- Ké&firs, who, under the influence of the oldest of the party, Dan Malik, a kind and gentle old man—for a Kafir—supported me sufficiently; so the gloomy-eyed Torag Merak went off to the village in all the dignity of sulkiness. I passed the night very uncomfortably, for rain fell heavily, and my sleeping-bag was very unpleasant.

The next morning, the 23rd of October, we were up early, but found it was anything but easy to make a start. The difficulty was to get my light luggage carried. Two of the Mehtar’s officials were with me, but they evidently had but little authority in the Mehtav’s village of Utztin. Valuable time was passing, and the day’s march was a long one. The case seemed hopeless, when old Ddén Malik and another old Kafir told me significantly to go on ahead, and that they would see my things were brought after me. The suggestion did not commend itself to me at first, for there was a doubt about my ever seeing my belongings again if once they were left behind; but the two K4firs explained by signs that they wanted me on ahead, in order that they might put a little pressure on the Utzin people, who were seated all around us, smiling and evidently amused. ‘ However, the illustration given of what was intended was quite sufficient, for when the gesture of slapping a man’s cheek was made, three or four wild-looking Utztin men at once seized my baggage between them, hoisted it on to their shoulders, and began dancing with it to show how little they thought of its weight.

oO

The next instant they all deposited their loads on the ground, and declared they were too heavy to carry; but on aidéther wink from Dan Malik, I started on ahead. His arguments were conclusive, and we had no more trouble about the baggage that day, the men carrying the small loads easily and cheerily.

For four miles we tramped up the rough bed of a mountain torrent with very little water in it, which was fortunate, as we had to cross and recross the stream continually. It had been necessary to leave my pony behind at Utzun, and the weather was extremely hot. We then started, all together, up the steep track which runs through the pine woods to the top of the Patkun Pass, but very soon we were in two parties; one, headed by Torag Merak, consisting of about a dozen K4firs, well ahead; the other, consisting of Dan Malik and myself, getting along as fast as we could. It was mortifying to find that this old man, after the first burst, could hold me easily, as the phrase goes, and that I was actually the worst of the party in getting up ‘the hill. As soon as we reached the top, Torag Merak indulged himself in loud yells, and observed that he was still the best man of his tribe on a hill. This was not true, ‘but no one cared to dispute the great man’s boastful utterances. We next had a long descent through a delightful pine forest, the path exceedingly rocky and difficult in some places, and eventually came into the open, where a small dwelling stood in the midst of fields. As the people of the place were away, we all sat down to wait at some little distance, as it might perhaps have led to misunderstanding if the owners had come back and found people in their house.