History of Royalton, Vermont, with family genealogies, 1769-1911

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Contents

CHAPTBR I.

ROTALTON.

Location — ^Topography — Fauna — Flora 1

Chapter I. Royalton

LOCATION, TOPOGRAPHY, FAUNA, AND FLORA.

Perhaps not half a dozen residents of Royalton could give an inquirer the latitude and longitude of the town in which they live, nor is it to be charged to general ignorance, if they fail to do so. There are some facts which we carry around in our heads, some in our note books, and some that we let lie in bound volumes on dusty shelves. One such volume informs the 'reader that Royalton is located in the north part of WindsoTP' county, in latitude 43 degrees 49 minutes, and longitude 4 degrees and 28 minutes east from Washington. Its latitude is about the same as that of Genoa in sunny Italy. Its climate, however, is more varied. The temperature generally ranges from the 90 's in July and August to 30 degrees below zero in the winter months. There are not many winter days when the mercury falls lower than 10 degrees below zero. The winters are variable, like other Vermont towns. Sometimes wheels run nearly every month in the year, but usually snow falls about Thanksgiving time, and from that date until the January thaw, the jingling of sleigh bells makes music on the frosty air. Heavy snow storms are likely to fall in February and March, but the residents console themselves with the thought that the sun is running its course higher every day, and the bed of downy white will soon melt under its warm rays. Occasionally the fall of snow is so heavy that the farmers are unable to get around in their sugar places, and a short supply of the delicious maple sugar is the result. Again, when there is an open winter, and spring comes earlier than usual, sending warm thrills through the sleeping maples, the buds start too early, and, though sap may run, it is not good for making sugar.

The town is a hilly one, as a whole, but not so much so as some of the surrounding towns. The river flowing through the whole length of the town, the two branches, which would be called rivers in many localities, and the long brooks, all have bordering them many acres of meadow land, as fine as can be found in any other part of New England. The hills rise one above another, and are of such altitude as to be worthy of the name of mountain, could they be set down on a broad prairie. Not many of these hills, mostly crowned with a luxuriant growth of trees, have been given names. The ** Elephant" is a peak near South Royalton, which ambitious youths sometimes climb, but oftener they are content to pick their way up the more modest elevation fronting the hotel, where a small building has been erected. At Royalton village the ** Pinnacle" has been associated in loving thought with many picnics and other good times in the minds of those who spent their young days in the quiet hamlet, or a few months within the academy walls.

A long range of hills in the southeast part of the town, back from the river, runs in a graded line for several miles. One part, the middle and highest portion, is sometimes called the Saw-tooth Range, from the fact that three sharp cuts, at quite regular intervals, are plainly noticeable from several viewpoints, one being on the north side of the river, near Havensville, and another on the old Royalton & Woodstock turnpike, over the hills to Barnard. The ** Twins" are two small elevations near the mouth of the First Branch. **Bald Mountain" is another high elevation north of the river, the location of which can be seen on the map of ** School Districts." In the northwest part of the town are high hills, on one of which, near Mr. Payette Green 's, the broadest and most beautiful landscape can be viewed that Royalton affords, stretching off to the distant Green Mountains, and revealing peak after peak. A sunrise or sunset watched from this elevation is most entrancing. Almost every hill road furnishes new delights to the traveller.

No quarrying of any consequence has been carried on in Royalton. The Bethel quarries are located on the border of the town. In 1846, the State Geologist, C. B. Adams, in his report, in speaking of a calcareo-mica slate region in Vermont, said that that part of the slate which lies east of the range from Memphremagog lake to the State House at Montpelier, and thence to Halifax, is wholly embraced in this division excepting a part of Essex county. He continues, ** There is considerable difference perceptible in a portion of this division, extending from Derby and Holland on the north, to Bethel and Royalton in White River valley, from the other portions, though similar in

lithological character. In the calcareo-mica slate region,

especially in that portion of it first described, embracing Memphremagog basin, Clyde, Barton, and Black River valley, and from thence to Royalton, Barnard, and Sharon, in White River valley, the deposits of muck are both numerous and large."

According to his estimate Royalton and Woodstock contain not much less marl than the deposit at Williamstown, covering about fifteen acres, which he thought would yield more than sixty millions of bushels of marl, suitable for manufacturing lime. Speaking specifically of Royalton, he said, ** There is a large and very valuable deposit of marl on the farm of Mr. Dewey. It was deposited in an ancient beaver pond, and is now very accessible. It will supply lime for the whole White River valley. Several valuable deposits of muck are found in the vicinity."

This beaver pond to which Mr. Adams referred was an artificial pond of considerable size built up by beavers, that dammed the brook running through the farm now owned by Lisle Mcintosh. On the farm of Amos J. Eaton was another beaver pond of smaller size. Proofs of the existence of these ponds are to be seen today. It may be that the Indians in their migrations knew of these ponds. On the Harry Bingham farm is a large boulder, commonly called the ** Indian Rock," where Indian remains have been found, and it is the tradition that Indians were in the habit of building a temporary shelter about it, by using limbs of trees.

There are no caves of any note in town. A small one is found near the home of Rev. Levi Wild, and another of small dimensions is on the hill back of the Edward Rix house. It was here that about the middle of the last century some young members of Elisha Rix's family found a mysterious note, which sent them scampering in fear to the protection of home. This note is now in the possession of Mrs. William Skinner, daughter of William Rix.

According to the U. S. Geological Survey the altitude of Royalton is 510 feet. Its geographical center is on the ** Bradstreet" farm, near the place where the portable sawing machine was recently set up, not far from the old school house. Royalton village seems to have been built up as near the center as practicable.

White river, the largest river east of the mountains, nearly sixty miles long, pursues its sinuous course through the town, having been frequently fed by hillside brooks since it left its birthplace in Granville, and continues to expand and deepen until its waters mingle with the Connecticut at Hartford. The First Branch, its largest tributary, winds its way down from Washington, through Chelsea and Tunbridge, and surrenders itself to the larger stream at South Royalton, while the Second Branch, somewhat smaller, with the same self-surrender in view, contentedly runs its course from Williamstown, through Brookfield, Randolph, and East Bethel to North Royalton. The town is thus supplied with sufficient water for the generation of power, and for other purposes, though in very dry seasons these streams and other smaller ones become quite low. There is evidence, from the nature and conformation of the river banks and contiguous land, that the bed of the river was considerably broader, when the first settlers painfully picked their way along its banks, than it is today. Some islands have disappeared, and others have formed, so that a few deeds of real estate executed one hundred years ago are now practically worthless.

The first settlers of Royalton did not have the fear of wild animals that some pioneers had in other parts of the country. There were bears and wolves, but they do not seem to have had very ferocious natures, and the settler did not need so much to guard his life as his property from their greedy jaws. Their depredations were to be dreaded, but no instance has been forthcoming where one's life was really in danger from these animals, if one were armed and had courage.

Wolves were much more common than bears, and were so troublesome throughout the state, that bounties were early offered for them. A certificate is on file in the office of the Secretary of State at Montpelier, dated June 16, 1779, in which Isaac Morgan and Comfort Sever, selectmen, certify that in the preceding January John Parkhurst of Royalton killed a wolf, and brought the head to the subscribers, as the law directed. On July 6th the selectmen of Royalton paid Mr. Parkhurst £8 bounty. Independent action by the towns is shown by a town record dated 1795. In a warning for a town meeting to be held Dec. 8, was an article **To see if they will join with a number of the other Towns in this vicinity to raise the bounty on wolves killed within sd Towns & to chose an agent to meet with the agents of other Towns at Braintree the 10th Day of Deer, next on that business." They met and adjourned to the 22d, when no action was taken on this article. An act was passed by the legislature in 1797 offering a bounty of $20 for everj^ wolf or panther killed in the state. The poor crow was in disfavor with Royalton farmers then as now, and April 24, 1806, it was voted to offer a bounty of twenty cents for every crow killed within the town from that date to August 1st. The treasurer's business was to cut off the head, administer the oath, and pay the bounty.

Bears and wolves are no longer domiciled in our forests. The animals most troublesome to dwellers are the fox, the woodchuck, skunk, weasel, and rat. The fox has been persistently hunted, but he still holds his own, and not uncommonly outwits the farmer, and dines on his choicest fowls.

Mr. Amos J. Eaton has very kindly furnished a list of animals found in town. Among those not already named are the ermine weasel, little brown bat, white-tailed deer, red, gray, and

BhSTORY OP ROYAXiTON, VERMONT 5

flying squirrels, chipmunk, black, and brown rats, house, and white-footed wood mice, meadow vole, muskrat, star-nosed and shrew moles, hedgehog, common hare, raccoon, striped garter snake, chicken, red-bellied, and black snakes, land tortoise, snapping turtle, common hyla, green, brown tree, and common tree frogs, garden toad, red lizard and newt. Rarer specimens are the northern mink, marten, spotted salamander, deer mouse, conie rabbit, and Canada lynx. A few years ago Mr. Eaton saw a wolf peeping into Royalton from Strafford line.

There is not so large a number nor so great a variety of birds in Royalton, as in former years before the pugnacious English sparrow became so numerous. The kinds are about the same as in other towns in Vermont. The list which follows was furnished by Mr. Amos H. Lamb, Mr. Amos J. Eaton, and Miss Minnie Metcalf.

The summer residents that are more or less common are the green heron, American woodcock, spotted sandpiper, sharpshinned. Cooper's, red-shouldered, and pigeon hawks, rosebreasted grosbeak, indigo bunting, scarlet tanager, cliflf, barn, tree, and bank swallows, waxwing, loggerhead shrike, red-eyed, warbling, and yellow-throated vireos, summer, chestnut-sided, blackbumian, black-throated green, myrtle, parula, white-creeping, and Canadian warblers, oven bird, Maryland yellow-throat, redstart, catbird, house wren, wood, hermit, and Wilson's thrushes, red-breasted robin, bluebird, yellow-billed and blackbilled cuckoos, kingfisher, yellow-bellied woodpecker, flicker, whip-poor-will, night hawk, chimney swift, brown creeper, kingbird, phoebe, wood pewee, least flycatcher, crow, bob-o-link, cow bird, red-winged blackbird, Baltimore oriole, purple finch, vesper, chipping; song, and field sparrows, red-headed woodpecker, white-crowned sparrow, and the ruby-throated humming bird.

The rare summer residents are the sparrow hawk, brown thrasher, great-crested flycatcher, meadow lark, purple, and bronze grackles, and white-throated sparrow.

The resident birds, remaining through the year are the ruffed grouse, barred owl, saw-whet owl, and screech owl, hairy, downy, and pileated woodpecker, blue jay, American goldfinch, white-breasted, and red-breasted nuthatches, chickadee, American crossbill, and English sparrow. The robin has been known to winter here.

The common migrant birds are the shell drake, wild goose, fish hawk, and homed lark. The rare migrant birds are the American herring gull, great blue heron, black-bellied plover, fox sparrow, winter wren, golden crowned kinglet, Traill's flycatcher, rusty blackbird, and white-crowned sparrow. The verv rare migrant birds are the American bittern, solitary sandpiper, and wild pigeon.

The summer visitants are the golden, and the bald eagle, both very rare. The winter visitants are the American goshawk, northern shrike, pine grosbeak, pine siskin, snow bunting, tree sparrow, and red poll, nearly all of which are rare.

Regarding the haunts and the time of appearance of some of these birds Miss Metcalf writes very entertainingly. In part she says, **The kingfisher's shrill whistle is heard along the river banks until quite cold weather, and again in early spring. With the advent of spring the blue bird appears, enjoying the distinction of standing at the head in the systematic arrangement of the birds of America in point of development, as * it takes practically none of man's products and boards itself.' The robin and song sparrow soon follow the blue bird, and the purple finch only a little later completes our spring quartette of the roadside. By May our fields and highways are thickly peopled with sweet singing and gayly plumaged birds, the brown thrasher, notably of the first, the indigo bunting of the second, accompanied by the plainer little vesper sparrow, the cat bird, king bird, and phoebe, while from the hillside comes the engaging song of the rosebreasted grosbeak. As summer advances, from the woods comes the songs of the thrushes, the call of the oven bird, the cuckoos' monotones, mingled with the plaintive note of the wood pewee, and the scarlet tanager is seen flitting about among the trees. Among the low-growing trees and shrubs may be found the white-throated sparrow, white-crowned sparrow, chewink, golden crowned kinglet, Maryland yellow-throat, black and white creeping warbler, and the brown creeper. The wiry call of the grasshopper sparrow announces its presence in the meadow. Along the river bank we may hear the sandpiper's monotonous call, and note the restless flight of many bank swallows. Occasionally we see a blue heron, and the call of the night heron is frequently heard, while the night hawk flies busily about, * policeman of the night,' as he has been called."

A few years ago two wood ibis were shot by Mr. Clark Turner on the First Branch in Royalton, and were mounted by Mr. Lamb. These specimens are now owned by Dr. Fish.

Since the laws for the protection of game and fish have been more stringently enforced, our streams, both large and small, but especially the brooks, are becoming fairly well supplied with several kinds of the finny tribe, such as the trout, shiner, dace, minnow, and eel. No fish of any large size is now taken from our streams, the angler feeling well repaid for several hours of trolling, if at last he succeeds in hauling in a twopounder. While Charles Lyman owned his saw mill, he stocked

History of Koyalton, Vermont 7

a pond near it with fish, and that hatchery still exists, the property of Fred Fowler.

Royalton does not now boast of so large a variety of flora as in earlier years. The deplorable stripping of the hills of their heavy growth of trees suitable for timber has resulted in the disappearance of several shy specimens of flowers that do not thrive in the open. In other cases the reckless gathering of rather rare flowers has ended in the extinction of that particular variety. The trailing arbutus at one time was very abundant in the vicinity of Royalton village, but has now nearly disappeared.

The closed gentian and the hop hornbeam tree are found on the hill road from South Royalton to Broad Brook. On this road also runs riot what is familiarly called viper's bugloss. It is not many years since it first made its appearance there, and it has spread with the rapidity of the tumble weed on the prairie, and what was at first admired as a novelty, is now called a pest. Another beautiful fiower, which the farmers fight, as a rule, most industriously with small success, is the yellow and the ox-eye daisy. A field white with the rank ox-eye is a thing of beauty in the month of June, but hateful to the farmer, who knows his grass crop will be a minus quantity. The peculiar pitcher plant, quite common in some localities, is quite rare in Royalton. It is found on the Franklin Joiner farm.

The swamp beyond the hills back of the Thomas Davis farm revels in a rich growth of mosses of great variety. Lovers of the lower forms of vegetation will be amply repaid by a visit to this section of the town, and if they time their trip in the month of the crimsoning raspberry, they can also fill their pails with this luscious fruit. The raspberry and blackberry shrubs, so common thirty years ago, have largely succumbed to the ruthless scythe and the lack of moisture which has characterized some of our later seasons.

The dandelion, which is an uncontrollable pest in some western states, occasions no uneasiness here, for the love of ** greens'' leads the small boys and girls to gather them plentifully for table use in the spring. Ferns grow to luxuriant size along roadsides and in moist places. Since the law requiring roadsides to be cleared has been rigidly enforced, many of our drives have lost much of their wild beauty, which loss is not counterbalanced by the more frequent passing of automobiles, in the interest of which the law seems to have had its inception.

Rev. Levi Wild, who is a lover of flowers, and has given some time to the study of plant life in the town, has very kindly furnished some information regarding it which will be of interest to those of like mind. He says, **I suppose the Flora of

8 HlSTOELY OP ROYALTON, VbBMONT

Royalton is in general like that of this section of the state, but there are some noteworthy exceptions. Among trees we have a well established colony of shellbark hickory on the 'Pinnacle' back of Royalton village. While this tree is common west of the Green Mountains, and in the Champlain region and in the southem Connecticut valley, it is doubtful if it is found on the east side of the state in any other place as far north as Royalton. It is doubtless not native here, but was* probably introduced at an early period in the history of the town. Miss Lucy Skinner used to say that these trees came from hickory nuts brought from Connecticut and planted here by the early settlers. Among the rare trees may be mentioned the buttonwood or sycamore, which is found occasionally in the vicinity of White river.

It is noticeable that the white pine has been spreading within the past half century away from the river to the worn-out upland pastures. I know of one pasture which contained only a single pine, perhaps thirty years ago, and is now covered with a dense growth of trees almost large enough to cut for lumber. This tendency of the pine to spread should be encouraged by the farmers. One acre of timber pine is more valuable than many acres of old pasture overgrown with brakes and steeplebush. Pine lumber commands a high price, and it is one of our most rapidly growing trees. Under favorable conditions a white pine may be expected to make a growth of about two thousand feet of lumber in three quarters of a century.

Leaving the trees and coming to other plants, we may notice among ferns that the walking fern has been found within a few years on the farm of Mr. John P. Shepard. It is sincerely to be hoped that collectors will not uproot so many specimens as to destroy this station; for this curious plant, while common in western Vermont, is rare on the eastern side, and botanically it is a great distinction for a town to possess it. Braun's holly fern, a somewhat rare fern of elevated situations, is also found in Royalton.

In the Rose Family I have seen a single specimen of the shrubby cinquefoil in a pasture near Broad Brook. In some towns of Vermont this is considered a pest. In the Pulse Family the blue false indigo has been found well established on the banks of White river. The smooth sumach is found near the Sharon line on the side of the river road. The fringed gentian is found in several places in Royalton. I think this is not so rare a plant as many suppose."

Among the wild fruits we may note a fair supply of butternuts, some thorn apple trees, the red, black, and choke cherrj-. the beech nut, juniper, checkerberry, sprignet, and others both dry and fleshy, edible and poisonous. Ginseng grows abundantly in some sections, and yields good returns to those gathering the root. The wild grape is rather common along roadsides, and with the clematis and woodbine adds beauty to the landscape.

No attempt has been made to give a full list of the Flora of the town, as it would occupy too much space, but other trees should be mentioned, such as the ash, hemlock, spruce, black, white, red, and gray birch, red and black beech, basswood, elm, hornbeam, white and red oak, poplar, white and sugar maple, and quite a variety of willows. Few towns have so many old beautiful elms as has Boyalton.

CHAPTER 11.

RoYALTON Charters.

A reference to the partition deed of the township of Royalton showed that the charter of the town had been granted two years before the deed was executed, and a search of the proprietors' records revealed the fact, that the town was not in possession of the charter. If the agent who was sent for it in 1779 did really secure a copy of it, it must have been lost.

The deed of partition with the accompanying chart of allotments is of more value than the charter would be. Many lots had been pitched previous to 1779, and several had been sold with boundaries described as in the chart, before the town awoke to the necessity of having a map of its lots.

A search for the charter revealed its existence in manuscript form in the oflBce of the Secretary of State at Albany, N. Y., and on application, permission was readily and courteously granted for the examination and copying of it. As it may not be accessible in printed form among the archives of New York for years to come, if ever, and as it is a document of more than local interest, it is given in full.

"George the Third hy the Grace of God of Great Britain France and Ireland King Defender of the Faith and so forth. To all to whom these Presents shall come Greeting

Whereas Our loving Subjects William LivingBton, William Smith Junior, and Whitehead Hicks, in behalf of themselves and twenty seven other Persons their Associates, by their humble Petition unto our late trusty and well beloved Sir Henry Moore Baronet then our Captain General and Governor in Chief of our Province of New York, and read in our Council for our said Province, on the third day of November which was in the Year of Our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty six did set forth, among other Things, That there was a certain Tract of Land situate on the West side of Connecticut River within our said Province, which the Petitioners had discovered to be vacant and unpatented; — bounded E2asterly by a Tract of Land commonly called or known by the Name of Sharon, and Southerly by another Tract of Land commonly called or known by the Name of Bernard, and Northerly by a Tract of Land commonly called or known by the Name of Tunbridge, and to run Westerly so as to comprehend Thirty Thousand Acres: And therefore the Petitioners for themselves and their Associates humbly prayed that as the aforesaid Lands never were granted under our Province of New Hampshire, our said late Captain

General and (Governor in Chief would be favourably pleased by our Letters Patent to grant unto them and their Associates, and to their respective heirs and Assigns forever, the aforesaid Tract of Land containing thirty thousand Acres: And that the same might be formed into a Township by the Name of Royalton with the usual Powers and Privileges that are granted to Townships within Our said Province: Which Petition having been referred to a Committee humbly advise and Consent that our said late Captain General and Governor in Chief should by our Letters Patent grant unto the Petitioners and their Associates and their heirs the Tract of Land aforesaid and that the same should be thereby erected into a Township by the Name of Royalton with the usual privileges, under the Quit Rent Provisoes Limitations and Restrictions prescribed by our Royal Instructions. And whereas the said William Livingston and Whitehead Hicks by their humble Petition in behalf of themselves and their Associates presented unto our trusty and well beloved Cadwallader Colden Esquire our Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief of our said Province of New York and the Territories depending thereon in America and read in our Council for our said Province on the twentieth day of October now last past, did set forth That the Petitioners and their Associates having obtained on their former Petition an order of our said late Captain General and Governor in Chief with the advice and Consent of our Council, bearing date the seventh day of November in the said Year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty six, for granting to them and their heirs a certain Tract of Land on the West side of Connecticut River containing thirty thousand Acres, had procured an actual Survey thereof at considerable E^pence: That the same tho' within the Lands formerly claimed by the Province of New Hampshire, had not been granted by that Government, and remains still vacant and vested in us; And therefore the Petitioners in behalf of themselves and their Associates did humbly pray that they might have Leave when the Letters Patent should issue for said Lands to insert as Grantees therein, the Names mentioned in the Schedule or List at the Foot of the said Petition, who are all the Persons interested in the Premises, to wit, William Livingstone, William Smith junior, Whitehead Hicks, John Kelly, Susannah Livingstone, Elizabeth Livingstone, John Brevort, Elias Brevort, Thomas Hicks, John Woods, Gilbert Hicks, John W.

Smith, Samuel Smith, Garret Noel, John Brown, Gerard Bancker, John Robinson, Gilbert Ash, William Sorrall, John Button Crimshier, Garret Roorback, John McKenney, Isaac Heron, Elias Nixon, Robert Hyslop, Francis Child, James Moran, Isaac Myer, John Lewis, and Samuel Boyer. On reading and due Consideration whereof. It was ordered by our said Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief with the Advice and Consent of our said Council, that the Names of the several Persons aforescdd should be inserted as Grantees In the Letters Patent for the Lands described in the said Petition, according to the Prayer thereof. In Pursuance whereof and in Obedience to our Royal Instructions aforesaid. Our Commissioners appointed for the selling out all Lands to be granted within our said Province have set out for them the said William Livingstone, William Smith junior, Whitehead Hicks, John Kelly, Susannah Livingstone, Elizabeth Livingstone, John Brevort, Ellas Brevort, Thomas Hicks, John Woods, Gilbert Hicks, John W. Smith, Samuel Smith, Garrett Noel, John Brown, Gerard Bancker, John Robinson, Gilbert Ash, William Sorrall, John Button Crimshier, Garrett Roorback, John McKenney, Isaac Heron, Elias Nixon, Robert Hyslop, Francis Child, James Moran, Isaac Myer, John Lewis and Samuel Bower, All that certain Tract or Parcel of Land within our Province of New York situate lying and being on the West side of the Connecticut

12 HlST(»Y OP ROYALTON, VERMONT

River in the County of Cumberland: Beginning at the Southwest Cbmer of a Tract of Land called and known by the Name of Sharon, being a Beech Tree with the Words The Southeast Comer of Royalton, and runs thence North sixty degrees West six hundred and twenty Chains; then North forty degrees East five hundred and thirty Chains; Then South fifty seven degrees and thirty Minutes "EaBt six hundred and eighteen Chains; and then South forty deg^rees West five hundred Chains, to the Beech Tree where this Tract first began containing thirty thousand Acres of Land and the usual allowance for Highways; And in setting out the said Tract of Land Our said Commissioners have had regard to the profitable and unpn^table Acres and have taken Care that the Length thereof doth not extend along the Banks of any River otherwise than is conformable to Our said Royal Instructions, as by a Certificate thereof under their hands bearing date the seventh day of this Instant Month of November, and entered on Record in our Secretary's Office for our said Province may more fully appear. Which said Tract of Land set out as aforesaid according to our said Royal Instructions We being willing to grant to the said Petitioners and their Associates, their heirs and Assigns forever, with the several Privileges and Powers hereinafter mentioned. Know Ye that of our especial Grace certain knowledge and meer Motion, We have given granted ratified and confirmed and do by these Presents for our heirs and Successors give grant ratify and confirm unto them the said William Livingstone, William Smith Junior, Whitehead Hicks, John Kelly, Susannah Livingstone, Elizabeth Livingstone, John Brevort, EHias Brevort, Thomas Hicks, John Woods, Gilbert Hicks, John W.