The history of San José and surroundings : with biographical sketches of early settlers

Preface

The principal events which have occurred in the Valley of Santa Clara, from its first settlement by the whites to the present time, must ever be regarded important to the people of the State; and particularly to the residents of the Valley, and to their relatives and intimate friends who reside .far beyond the confines of California. This portion of the State has been denominated its "Paradise"; and, perhaps, not altogether without reason.

Inquiries have frequently been made, by strangers here from the East, for its history; and, in most cases, the answer that there is no such history has been heard with surprise. . The facts which present themselves to the stranger's mind, namely : that this Valley contains the most ancient Pueblo in the State; two old Missions; and the New Almaden Quicksilver Mine, were enough from which to draw a reasonable conclusion that some collection of their past events should have been given to the public in an historical form. Having resided many years in the Valley, knowing many facts pertaining to its history, and feeling much interest in its prosperity, I have been prompted to exert my best endeavors to place before the public what should not be buried, and what ought to be considered interestingannals.

IV PREFACE.

Tin- reader must be aware, that although lie, who narrates the annals of an American city, may have furnish* d him many interesting facts, yet he is, in a

asure, deprived of a flood of rich materials which swell up before the historian who attempts to portray the histoiy of a nation, situated within the boundaries of Europe. There he may gather tales of heroic games, of daring deeds of armory, shield, helmet and spear, to give lustre to his pages; he may delineate with exactness the history of courts, parliaments, emperors, and kings; he may paint in exquisite shades their apparel, their stately mansions, richly adorned parks, 1>aronial keeps, and castles o'erhung with ivy; which -lit and intoxicate the mind like a draught from .the cup of enchantment. While I have been deprived of drawing from depositories of such glittering wealth, I have recounted those facts which encompass the attractive spots which the inhabitants of this Valley call their Homes, — spots ever dear to the human race.

It has been with no small amount of labor that I have dug up, from the almost hidden recesses of the Mexican archives, the events which make up the. early history of this Valley. No history of the movements of the contending forces in this Valley, during the Mexican war, has ever before been published or written.

I have given, in the Appendices, lists of officials, the Pueblo survey and' map, the grants in the county, and the .suit against the city; also, the Mexican laws which once governe'd the territory, and the laws regulating the founding of Pueblos; which laws are difficult' of a aiid more so of purchase, as there are none

for sale excepl in this work. The error in Chapter II, 1'. 9, in the name of the high mountain east of San Jos6, cted loo late to !>>■ corrected. For "Washingread " Hamilton."

PREFACE.

I must acknowledge the benefits I have derived froni the valuable "Colonial History of Han Francisco," by John W. Dwinelle; also, from " The Natural Wealth of California," by T. F. Cronise. I must likewise express my gratitude to R. C. Hopkins, Keeper of California Archives, and John T. Colahan, City Clerk of San Josc>, for their kindness rendered me in pursuit of materials. I would also record a just sense of the courtesy of Mr. Levi P. Goodrich, in favoring me with drawings of Santa Clara street, the Legislative Hall and the Juzgado, for engravings in this work; and, finally, extend many thanks to Mr. James A. Forbes for much early historical matter.

F. H.

San Jose, California, December, 1870.

Chapter I

irOS— 1T70.

Civilization of the. Americas. — American Colonies; Their Conflict with Great Britain. — Adventures of the Spaniards. — Charles III; His Character. — The Aztecs; Their Traditions.— Indian Traditions of Upper and Lower California. — The Californias considered as an Island a century ago. ------- 1-6

CHAPTER 11.

17GT-1TSO.

The Viceroy.— Junipero Serra. — First Settlement in Upper California; San Diego, San Carlos, San Francisco and Santa Clara. — Topography of the Valley of Santa Clara. — Error in "Natural Wealth of California." — Astronomical Position of San Jose. — First Settlement of San Jose. — Comandancia-General of the Northern Provinces of Mexico. — Instructions of Viceroy.— Approval by the King of the Founding of San Jose. - 7-24

Chapter III

Gov. Fages. — First Grants of Lots and Possession Given in San Jose. — Form of Grants; Conditions Therein. — Slow Growth of Pueblo. — Solicitations for Large Tracts of Land within the Pueblo; Refusal Thereof. — Wood and Pasture Lands of Pueblo not to be granted to Individuals. — Four Square Leagues area of a Pueblo. 25-35

Chapter IV

Vancouver's Opinion of Santa Clara Valley in 1792. — The Indians of this Vicinity; Their Name, Language, Habits, Mode of Living, Mechanical Skill, Implements. 36-45

Vlll CONTEXTS.

% CHAPTER V .

Ancient Site of Pueblo. — Removal to the Present Site. — Different Classes of Lands in a Pueblo. — Propios, Ejidos, Dehesas, Lienes Concejiles. — Temporary Occupancy of Pueblo Lands. — Governor's Statement that Ejidos were not measured off. 46-56

Chapter VI

Dispute as to the Boundary Line between the Pueblo of San Jose and Mission of Santa Clara; Letters in Relation thereto from Governors, Missionaries, Military Officers, and the Viceroy. — Guadalupe Eiver Declared to be the Boundary. — Juzgado. - 57-81

CHAPTER VII. The Alameda. — Mission and Pueblo of San Jose— Land Dispute

about La Calera. — Eirst Church in San Jose — Ceremony of

Laying its Corner-stone, 1803. — Peach Brandy. — Dispute

about the Land called Las Calaveras ; its Location ; why so

named. — Boundary of Pueblo by Mariano Castro. — Schools. 82-101

Chapter IX. 1siul— 1s3g

Qilioy. — First Foreign Settler. — Livermore. — Sunol. — Commerce in Grain, Hides and Tallow.— Food.— .Earthquake. — Change of Imperial to Republican Government. — William Willis. — Colonization Law. — Population, 1831. — Settlers in 1833. — Law of California Deputation, 1834. — Petition of Ranchero's to Change Jurisdiction. — Revolution, 1S3(J. — Gov. Alvarado. 112-121

CONTENTS. i \

C 1IAPTER X.

Applications for Grants. — Commission Appointed to Survey Pueblo; Survey Made; Report thereof to Ayuntamientos; No Action of Government thereon. -------- 125-132

Chapter XI. 1843-1846

Bickerings between Alvarado and Castro. — Arrival of Gov. Micheltorena from Mexico ; his Overthrow [and Departure. — List of American and Foreign Settlers. — Fremont's Movements.

— Pio Pico favors Annexation to England.— r Bear Flag. — Castro's Proclamations. — Com. Sloat's Proclamation. — The Taking of San Jose by Capt. Fallon. — First U. S. Flag raised in the Valley. — Letters to Fallon from Capt. Montgomery.

— Fallon's Departure. - - - - 133-153

Chapter XII. 1846— '47

Arrival of Force under Purser Watmough. — Weber and Aram form companies. — Arrival of Lieutenant Pinckney's command.

— Prisoners taken by the enemy. — Demand of a surrender of San Jose. — Refusal thereof. — Bartlett delivered to English

Consul by the enemy. — Movements of U. S. forces. — Battle, American victory. — Armistice. — Surrender of the enemy. — Their loss. 151-166

Chapter XIII

Executive, Judicial, and Legislative Forms of Government. — Jurisdiction of Courts. — John Burton, Alcalde; His Court. — Judgments Rendered Therein.— Burton's Committee. - 167-175

Chapter XIV

Survey of the Pueblo Lots. — Claims to the Lands under Old Titles; Rejection thereof. — Re-survey of the Pueblo. — Survey

X CONTENTS.

of the Five-Hundred-Acre Lots ; Titles therefor. — Burying Grounds. — Re-survey under City Authority ; Maps thereof. — Unimproved Park. ------------- 176-187

Chapter XV

Improvements. — Discovery of Gold. — Exit of Population to the Mines. — Peralta's Opinion of the Gold; his Life. — John M. Murphy's Success. — Crimes, Convictions, and Executions. —Aspect of the Pueblo. ----- V 188-200

Chapter XVI. 18-4,9

San Jose Delegates to State Convention. — Influence of White and Reed in making San Jose the Capital. — Vote of San Jose for Governor. — Governor Burnett's Family. — Legislative House; Difficulties in Obtaining One; How Obtained; Its Description; Its Destruction by Fire. --------- 201-208

Chapter XVII

City Hotel; Its Character. — Mansion House; Its Character; Tricks Played Therein; Its Destruction by Fire. 209-216

Chapter XVIII

Legislature. — Governors. — Candidates for United States Senate; Their Election. — Bill to Remove Capital. — Party given to Legislature. — Pueblo Grants. — Governor's Proclamation prohibiting Grants. — Delegates from Deseret. — Ayuntamiento. — Trial before Court of First Instance. — District Court. — Amusements. — Gold Excitement. — Fourth of July.— Escape of Hernandez.— Crimes. - - - - 217-235

Chapter XIX. 1850-1351

Roads, Travel and Stage Fare.— Railroad Meeting.— Newspapers; " State Journal;" "San Jose Daily Argus;" " Weekly Visitor."

CONTENTS. XI

Improvements, 1850. — Churches. — Schools. — Cholera. —

Legislature, 1851. — State Scrip.— Removal of Capital. — Dullness of the City. — Crimes and Executions. — Meeting for Division of State, and Delegates Elected. — Court-House. - 236-248

Chapter XX. 1853— 1860

Crimes.— Punishment.— Execution for Grand Larceny.— Murder of Smith.— Express Company.— Suit of City against County.

— San Jose Academy.— " Santa Clara Register."— Fire. — Election. — /Dedication of Methodist Church. — Civil and Military School.— Principal Hotels. — Treasury Robbed. — Bascom Institute. — Common Schools. — Explosion on Jenny Lind. — Mrs. Hensley's Premises. — Santa Clara Street Improvements. —City Vote. — Telegraph Line. — Improvements. — College of Notre Dame. — Advance of Real Estate. — St. James Square Granted for Depot. — " Semi-Weekly Tribune." — Artesian Wells.— Money for Indigent Sick,— San Jose the Capital.— Removal of Supreme Court' to San Jose. — Agricultural Society Organized.— Stage Fare to San Francisco.— Church Burned. •

— Bell Purchased for Hook and Ladder Company.— Engine Company Organized. — Berreyessa Executed. — Fire Engine Purchased.— Engine House. — Vote. — City Hall.— Indebtedness of City.— City Loan.— County Jail. — School by Gates. — Improvements.— " San Jose Telegraph." — Omnibusses to Santa Clara.— Bells tolled for King of William.— Public Meetings on' Vigilance 'Committees. — Earthquakes. — Reincorporation of City. —Fire. — Execution of Cardoza. — Organization of Fire Department, and of Torrent Engine Company, No. 2.— Common Schools.— Number of Children.— Cemetery Enclosed. —Railroad Meeting. —Rules of Cemetery by Ordinance.— Improvements. — Crosby Shot. —Fire. — Election. — Squatter Meeting.— Dedication of Baptist Church.— City Expenditures.

Notice of Land Company and Commissioners of Funded

Debt.— Horace Greeley.— Theater.— Incorporation of Agricultural Society.— " Daily Reporter."— Mass Meeting.— "Weekly Reporter."— School Fund.— Court House. 249-2S2

Chapter XXI

Gas.— Settler's Parade— Refusal of the Posse Comitalus to obey Sheriff.— Adjournment of the District Court in Consequence

XI 1 CONTENTS.

Thereof. — Fire. — Votes. — Alameda Turnpike.— Indebtedness of City.— Fourth of July.— A. Smith Executed.— '^.Weekly Patriot." — Improvements. — City Census of Children. — Gen. Naglee's Premises. — Earthquake. — Bridge. — " Courier." — City out of Debt.— Civil War. 283-298

Chapter XXII

Growth and Industry. — "Daily Patriot." — "San Jose Weekly Argus." — Earthquakes. — Death of Hendricks. — City Grants. — Bank of Knox and Beans. — Be-incorporation of City. — Sale of Part of Market Square. — Court-house. — Methodist Church.

— City Vote. — Silkworms and Silk Looms. — San Jose Water Company. — Purchase of School Premises by City. — Building thereon. — Young Men's Christian Association. — County Bonds Purchased by the City. — City Vote. — New York Hotel. — Improvements.— Fall Vote. — Market Street Extended. — Bank of San Jose. — San Jose Savings Bank. — City Yote. — "Daily Ai"gus." — Horse Bailroad to Santa Clara. — Severe Earthquake.

— Eailroad extended to Fifteen-Mile House. — Methodist Church Ground Sold. — Engine-house Lot purchased by City. — Methodist Church burned. — Eailroad extended to Gilroy. — • Receipts of Bailroad Company for four years. — Improvement * of Washington Square. — Murder of Mrs. Hauser. — Erection

of Methodist Church. — Number of Scholars in the Citjr. — Directory of City. — Location of Normal School. — City Funds. — City Vote. — "Daily Independent." — Consumption of Gas and Coal. — Number of City Consumers. — Woolen Manufacturing Company. — Opera House; Opening Address and Play. — Normal School Building. — Laying of its Corner Stone. — Music I [all. — Jail. — Hose Company. — Present Condition of the City. — Schools. — Value of Property. — Assessments. — Fiscal condition of the City. — General Appearance and Health of the City. ----- - 29D-332

C PI A P T E R XXIII.

THE PUEBLO L A. N T> TITLE.

Law Defining Pueblos.— A; .fC.n i . .\bivh .'id, l,v">l. — Action

of the Board of Land Commissioners. — Testimony. — Confir-

."ii of Four Square Leagues to the City. — Appeal to U. S.

CONTENTS. Xl ll

District Court, and Reversal. — Appeal to U. S. Supreme Court. — Final Decree of Confirmation to the City of Amount Claimed — The Land Company's Claim to the Pueblo Lauds. — Survey of Pueblo Lauds.— Map. 333-349

CHAPTER XXPY.

BIO&R^lPHICAL sketches.

Hon. Peter H. Burnett.— Gen. H. M. Naglee.— Maj. S. J. Hensley. — Jacob D. Hoppe. — Charles White. — Joseph Aram. — Isaac Branhani. — James F. Reed. — Thomas Fallon. — Adolph Pfister. — Peter Quivey. — Hon. James M. Jones. — Hon. C. P. Hester. —Hon. W. T. Wallace.— Hon. A. L. Rhodes.— Andrew J. Grayson. - - 350-395

CHAPTER XXV.

QUICKSILVER MINES.

Discovery of the New Almaden ; Working of the Mine in 182-4 •by Sunol and the Robles ; Experiments by Andres Castillero, in 18-45; Denouncement of the Mine by him; his Proceedings to acquire Title thereto; his Working of the Mine; his Sale to Messrs. Barron, Forbes & Co. ; their Possession and Work ; Furnaces and Process of Working therewith; Geological Character and Chemical Analysis of the Ore ; Mode of Obtaining and Transporting Ores; Products of the Mine; Sale thereof. — Almaden Mine in Spain; Comparison between the two Mines. — Enrequita Mine. — Title to the New Almaden. — Guadalupe Mine. ------ 396-414

CHAPTER XXYI.

Missions of Santa Clara and San Jose.— Santa Clara College, and. University of the Pacific.

Comandante of San Diego and Father Pefia make the first Vis^; to Santa Clara Valley in 177G ; their Visit to San Francisco. — Father Peiia returns to Santa Clara ; he Builds a Cross, and says the first Mass under it. — Founding of Santa Clara Mission. — Death of Father Murguia. — Dedication of Mission Church.— Vancouver's Visit to, and Description of, the Mis-

XIV CONTEXTS.

sion.— Earthquakes.— Building of the present Mission Church. — Description of the Mission by a Spanish writer in 1822. — Population and Stock of Missions in 1S31 and 1812.— Description of Missions by De Mofras. — Colonization of California.— Laws and [Regulations for the Secularization of the Missions. — Possession by the Priests under United States authority. — Possession of Santa Clara Mission by Redman and Clayton; Suits by and against them. — Missions Confirmed to Roman Catholic Church. — Opinion of Court on the Nature of Missions. — Santa Clara College. — San Jose Mission. — University of the Pacific. 415-14:1

CHAPTER XXYII.

SA-NTJ^. CLARA. COUNTY.

Area of County; Population in 1852, 1860, and 1870; Number of Children; Eate of Assessment on Property; County Indebtedness; Value of Property in the County; Number of Live Stock; Productions. — Angora Goats. — Adaptability of Soil and Climate to all Plants.— Health -of Climate .—Temperature in each Month.— Philosophy of the Pacific Climate.— Climate of Santa Clara Valley. — Bayard Taylor's Description of the Valley. ------- 412-454

APPENDICES.

Colonial Governors of California. — Treaty with Mexico; when Ratified.— State Constitution; when Adopted. ----- 155-457

I

Pueblo Officers. — Mayor of City, and President of Board of Trustees. -- ----- 458-459

CONTENTS. \ v

Kegulations under Spain for Government of Pueblos in California. - 460-4.73

Suit of Land Company against City of San Jose. - - - - 474-479

Boundaries of the Pueblo of San Jose. -------- 480-483

Private Land Grants in the County of Santa Clara. - - - 484-i88

Laws for California, passed by the Mexican Congress in

1837. ..... 489-537

AND

SURROUNDINGS.

Chapter I. 1vos— 17vo

Civilization of the Americas. — American Colonies. — Their Conflict with Great Britain. — Adventures of the Spaniards. — Charles III. — His Character. — The Aztecs. — Their Traditions. — Indian Traditions of Upper and Lower California. — The Californias considered as an Island a century ago.

During the last half of the last century there existed a great vigor of thought, a great physical activity in the advancement of civilization in the Americas. It is true, that emigration from Great Britain to her Colonies was, for a period, brought nearly to a cessation. Dr. Franklin observed, before 1760, that " There has not gone from Britain to our Colonies, in these twenty years past, to settle there, so many as ten families a year." But this did not evidence a paucity of resources, nor, that a fair industry was not amply remunerated in those oppressed Plantations. There did exist a restlessness, a defection; a determination sooner or

2 HISTORY OF SAN JOSS

later to paralyze the hand of oppression, to crush the heart of insolence, to resist unjust taxation, and to extend the area of freedom of thought, of expression and of action. The hues that were heating the political cauldron were fed by continued acts of oppression imposed by the Mother country; until, at last, a general conflagration overspread the whole people, and the Colonies became the theatre of a momentous struggle, the final result of which has produced an everlasting influence upon the interests and destinies of mankind. While England was thus in stubborn conflict with those Colonies, the Spanish tide of adventurous enterprise was rolling over the boundless regions of the Western empire, — rich and luxurious provinces, — lands bathed in a genial clime, — lands, too, endowed with the alluring and, sometimes, fatal gifts of silver and gold.

From 1759 to 1780, Charles III. swayed the sceptre on the Spanish throne. He was a kind-hearted and generous prince, a man of more than ordinary intellectual power, and of considerable executive ability. In all those qualities far superior to his half-brother and immediate predecessor, Ferdinand IV.; and, in generosity and consideration for the welfare of his subjects, in ideas of progress, and vigor of mind, he infinitely surpassed his profligate son and successor, Charles IV. He had paid much attention to finance, commerce and agriculture while he was King of Naples, and the acquirements thus made were of immense value to him after the acquisition of his new throne. We cannot deny that he possessed, to a great degree, that trait so characteristic of the House of Bourbon,— fondness for the chase. His European domain was but a hand's breadth in comparison with his vast American territories. . He gave great impetus to commerce and to agriculture. Although the distant possessions of Mexico and the Californias were under the immediate government of his Viceroy, he' was not unfamiliar with their respective conditions. His gifts were liberal in the disposition of his uncultivated lands, and by virtue thereof he induced his subjects to settle on his new and unexhausted soil.

As the successive changes in this territory pass in review before us they will exhibit four different governments: that of Spain, of the Empire undet Iturbide; and those of the Republics of Mexico and the United States.

So far as we can glean from historic or traditional fields, the ancestors of the Aztec race, that battled against the encroachments of the proud Spaniards, went forth from the North to people the broad and fruitful plateaus and valleys of Mexico. But we are at as great a loss to define the boundaries of that "North," as we are to ascertain whence and when the human race first migrated into Italy. The great depositaries of history and tradition have furnished no proof of either. The domain through which courses the Gila and Colorado, still possesses some debris supposed to be the remnants of rude architectural structures of the semi-civilized Aztecs. Whether the beautiful valleys of California this far North were ever held in subjection by that race is unknown. Such an inquiry may offer some temptation to the fanciful antiquarian, but the paths will all doubtless lead him into the realms of enchantment, where he may cull flowers — not facts.

The Indians of Lower California, one hundred and fifty years ago and more, amused their children, and interested the stranger that came within their hunting-grounds, by relating the legends handed down by tradition about their ancestors. They told how the big chiefs among those ancestors fell into a dispute at a great banquet; how they became enraged ; how they fought, and how the conquered parties advanced to the South' and rested in that southern land, far away from the victors. But the Indians of Upper California were of far less capacity; they had not equal courage ; they had less physical and mental power; they were indolent and ignorant in comparison with those who dwelt in the South and East. In fact, it is not known that they ever had any tradition among themselves as to their ancestors, or scarcely any as to their country.

The most civilized nations of the world knew I mi little aim at Upper California until the last quarter of the last century. Capt. Woods Rogers, commander-in-chief of the expedition around the world, made in the ships Duke and Duchess, of Bristol, which was commenced in 1708 and finished in 1711, in speaking of California says: "It is not certainly known whether it be an island or joins to the continent. The Spaniards told me that some of their folks had sailed as far up as latitutle 42° NT.; meeting with shoal water and abundance of islands dared not go farther. Shoal water and islands are a general sign of being near some main land. The Dutch say they formerly took a Spanish vessel in those seas which had sailed around California and found it to be an island. That cannot be depended on."

Father Kiihn ascertained to his satisfaction in 1709, that California, or the peninsula, as he termed it, joined the continent. Even a century ago, European geographers placed California on their maps as an island. Archbishop Lorenzana wrote in his history of New Spain, in 1770, that "It is doubtful if the country of New Spain does not border on Tartary and Greenland — by the way of California on the former, and by New Mexico on the latter." Such was, one hundred years ago, the scanty and imperfect knowledge possessed by civilized nations of this now far-famed land.

As tradition has served us to no purpose, we shall commence with the Spaniard who, as he advanced into his new possessions, carried the pen and ink, and from his records we ma}' trace him and his various acts down the stream of Time, and form therefrom a part of the history we herein relate of a small, but the fairest, portion of this Great Republic.

AND URROUN DINGS.

Chapter II

The Viceroy.— Junipero Serra. — First Settlement in Upper California. — San Diego, San Carlos, San Francisco and Santa Clara. — Topography of the Valley of Santa Clara.— Errors in "Natural Wealth of California." — Astronomical Position of San Jose. — First Settlement of San Jose. — Comandancia-General of the Northern Provinces of Mexico. — Instructions of Viceroy. — Approval by the King of the Founding of San Jose.

I shall make no apology for stepping over the municipal confines of San Jose in this history, inasmuch as there were many occurrences without its territorial limits that bear indirectly upon its annals. And further, the Pueblo extends its area far beyond the now city limits.

The immediate conclusion to civilize and settle Upper California, arose from the expulsion of the Jesuits from Lower California in 1767. Marquis de Croix, Viceroy of Mexico, having, in 1768, concluded that it was time to know more about this distant land and to enlighten its natives, entrusted the enterprise to the priesthood, and nominated Father Junipero Serra, a Franciscan friar, as Missionary-President of Upper California. He took with him sixteen brothers of his own Order from the convent of San Fernando, in the city of Mexico. He arrived at San Diego July 1st, 1769, and on the 16th organized a mission there. The first native was baptized there December 26th of that year. The Mission of San Carlos, at Monterey, was founded June 3d, 1770. The Presidio at San Francisco was established September 17th, 1776, and the Mission of San Francisco de las Dolores, October 9th, 1776, and the Mission of Santa Clara, January 18th, 1777. The foregoing data are herein given that the reader ma^ carry them along in his mind as he contemplates the history we are about to record of that town of an almost contemporaneous creation.

The city of San Jose, pronounced San Hosay, and written in English Saint Josej)7i, formerly known as the Pueblo de San Jose de Guadalupe, is situated on the right bank of the Guadalupe river, about eight miles south of the bay of San Francisco, in the county of Sa^ita Clara, and in the broad and beautiful valley which bears the same appellation as the county. Although the land which encircles San Jose, for a very considerable extent, has been christened " Santa Clara Valley," yet the domain thus denominated is but a part of the great valley which embraces several counties, and sweeps down from the city at the Golden Gate in one apparent uniform level to San Juan South, a distance of more than ninety miles. The ancient name of this great valley at the time of its first settlement was San Bernardino, from San Francisco to San Juan Bautista. It is oval in form, and its width at San Jose is about fifteen miles. At about four miles south of San Jose, small hills, Lomas Lagrimas (Hills of Tears), appear to fence in the valley; but they are not extensive, nor do they obstruct either road that leads southward. They are probably about two miles in extent at their base.* Eight miles farther south the valley narrows to a width of nearly three miles, and thus extending six miles farther, when it gradually expands to a breadth of some six miles and so sweeps onward. On either side the valley is bordered by a chain of mountains running northwest and southeast, and ranging in altitude from one thousand to nearly four thousand feet. Directly east, and about twelve miles on an air line from the city, is Mount Washington, 4,448 feet high. The western range near the Almaden Mines is crowned by two peaks, standing like sentinels watching the precious metal emboweled in the surrounding hills, but firmer on their base than that metal which oozes out in silver streams from these mercurial fountains. The one termed by the Indians Choual, is 3,530 feet in altitude. The other, Oumouhum, since named Mount Bache, is 3,430 feet. On the western mountains grows the tall and stately redwood (Sequoia Semper r ire us), so serviceable for building timber — so stubborn in

* These hills are so named because in early times, when some of the early settlers were coming up from the State of Sonora, they stopped there, and their provisions giving out caused the children to cry.

resisting the march of decay. Also many oaks and madroiia shade nook and ravine. The eastern range, which slopes down in irregular curvilinear lines, bears a scanty forest of oaks; but its grassy knolls and nooks, intermingled with its multifarious wild flowers, in their vernal freshness array themselves in rainbow-tints in the rays of the gorgeous West.

From out those eastern hills, at a distance of twenty-five miles from San Jose, the Coyote stream takes its rise, and leaping among the hills in a westerly course until it flows into the valley at a distance of eighteen miles southeast of the city, it circles around to the northwest, and meandering through the valley by the eastern confines of the city, empties its contents into the bay of San Francisco. During the rainy seasons this stream rushes torrent-like, surging first on this then on that side, gullying out its banks and freighting in its swiftness the mud and sand scooped therefrom into the salt-water basin of the sea. Then in the dryness of Summer heat it is as quiet as a gentle lamb, calmly meandering, as if reluctant to leave the luxuriant valley, scarcely moving, scarcely moistening the sparkling sand below. It bore its present appellation last oentury, from the fact, I" presume, of there being so many coyotes (cards htrans), in the valley and along its banks. This animal partakes of the nature of the fox and wolf. Its skin is sometimes sold from fifty cents to a dollar. Its bark is less harmonious and musical than the Chinese gong; and the weary midnight traveler would prefer the gruff voice of the storm to the death-like howl of this sneaking beast.

The river Guadalupe, named after the patron saint of Mexico, has its source about one league southwest of San Jose, in the place called Souzal. It is fed by springs and other small streams. It runs in a northerly course until it comes near the city, then turns and courses northwesterly, and pours into the San Francisco bay. It is always supplied with water, and for that reason the Pueblo was laid off on its bank that the settlers might be provided with sufficient water for irrigation. It is clogged with floodwood, and to that fact may be attributed its occasional overflow in the seasons of very heavy rains. It needs to be dredged ; were that well done, there would be no room for fear in the heaviest rains. The damage from its overflow has been very slight, and might be entirely remedied as suggested.