Historic landmarks, being a history of early explorers and fur-traders, with a narrative of their adventures in the wilds of the Great Northwest Territory..

Introduction

Many years ago the writer purchased some rare old volumes from the libi-ary of the late General J. B. S. Todd — Dakota's first delegate in congress. On their musty pages are found interesting accounts of the white man's doings in the wilds of the great northwest. Here, beyond the borderlands of civilization, history was rapidly made and graphically reported, and nearly every day becomes an anniversary of some important historical event enacted in the lands of ancient Louisana and the Dakotas.

Here, wild Indians roamed in migratory bands across the uninhabited plains, and the fur-traders' Mackinaw boats glided over the turgid waters of the mighty Missouri — propelled by a band of French voyageurs. No longer will these old navigators thread their restless way up the winding channel of the great river. Their glory has departed never to return! A straggling wanderer may still be seen pitching his lonely tent along the shallow waters of some remote tributary, but he will soon disappear and his songs die away like the echoes they awaken. The old Missouri river trappers and hunters will ever be remembered as poetic images who moved in the vanguard of pioneer life. Their names and exploits are interwoven with episodes of daring deeds of adventure and themes of traditional associations, around the sacred precincts of many old historic landmarks.

These published narratives of exploration and adventure, in the wilds of Upper Louisana, form interesting episodes of early history during its embryonic life. As connecting links in the historic chain, leading up the mind's eye to that point where the horizon lifts and takes in the introductory chapters of the two Dakotas. The author gathered the material for this work from old annuals, historic records, and the soulstirring narratives of old trappers and fur-traders, who moved as prominent actors on the upper waters of the Missouri, during their restless migrations beyond the pioneer's trespassing ploughshare.

A. L. Van Osdel.

Chapter I

History of Dakota Indians— Lone Dog's Winter Counts -==Sioux Indians in War of 1812— -Joseph Renville.

*HE early history of the two Dakotas are identified with wars of wild Indians, as untamed and ungovernable as the mighty Missouri — which bore them in their rude boats over its turgid waters. Many acts of these aboriginal inhabitants of the western plains are lost to us, while other events are handed down from traditional tales and pictographic winter counts. Picture writing was the wild Indian's mode of expressing thoughts and noting facts by marks confined to the portrayal of natural objects.

We find in the fourth annual report of the Bureau of Enthnology, published at Washington, D. C, fiftyeight pages of text and forty-six full page plates, on "Pictographs of the North American Indians." The greater portion of this matter is in the form of charts, termed "Calendars of the Dakota Nation;" now changed to the title adopted by these Indians, in their original "Waniyetu Wo-wapi;" — vis. Winter Counts.

Lone Dog, an Indian in the Yanktonias band of Dakota Sioux, was perhaps the originator of these calendars, known as Winter Counts. His historical chart extends over a period of more than seventy years; commencing with the winter of 1800-'01; and was originally painted in black and red on a beautiful buffalo robe which w^as held as a sacred relic by his band.

The Dakota name of this distinguished Indian historian: — "Shunka-ishula," corresponds with the vocables in Rigg's lexicon for Lone Dog.

It is not supposed that Lone Dog was of sufficient age in the year 1800 to enter upon his Winter Counts, Either there was a predecessor from whom he received the earlier records or he gathered his information from the old men in the tribe, and from tradition. Lone Dog was last seen with his band in the autumn of 1876, near Fort Peck, Montana.

He claimed that with the council and aid of the chief men in his tribe, he decided upon this plan of distinguishing each year, by noting some event of importance to his people. And he marked what was considered to be its appropriate symbol or device upon a buffalo robe kept for that purpose.

This historic robe was exhibited from time to time and other Indians in the tribe were taught the meaning of the devices imprinted on it. This idea was one especially appropriate to the Indian's genius, and its publication spread among other bands of the Dakota Sioux Indians, where copies of such charts are found.

Definite signs, for the first appearance of smallpox, and the first capture of wild horses on the plains of the Dakotas, are recorded by these indeographic devices, interpreted with ease and accuracy. In consider ing the extent to which Lone Dog's chart is understood and used, it may be said that every intelligent Dakota Indian of mature years understands its ideographic symbols; and in many instances, the years in which these successive events occurred.

Since the interpretation and publication of Lone Dog's winter counts, many other historic charts were found among the Sioux Indians on the upper Missouri.

Those of American Horse, Cloud Shield, and Babtiste Good, are intensely interesting, being interspersed with ideographic symbols of tribal and personal designations, Indian customs and history.

The word Dakota is an Indian name of special significance, suggesting a broad and great domain, peopled by confederate or allied, tribes.

More than two hundred and fifty years ago, French voyageurs and fur-traders from France found a warlike •race of Indians along the western shores of Lake Michigan, whom they called Nadowesioux, which is the plural of the Algonkin name Nadowessi; meaning "hated foe."

Coming nearer to them, both trader and priest found numerous bands of this nation fighting their way westward to the headwaters of the Mississippi. But no definite knowledge was obtained regarding this great war tribe, som^e times called "The Iroquois of the V/est"; until Hennepin and his men were captured by them in 1680. They took him and his companions of the voyage to their village on the headwaters of Rum river and along the shores of Mille Sac and Knife lake; within the present state of Minnesota. V/hile in captivity, Hennepin discovered the great falls in the Mississippi, which he named Saint Anthony.

There, the city of Minneapolis stands within the boundaries of Hennepin county — named in honor' to the explorer.

From St. Anthony's Falls Hennepin and DuLuth went to Lake Superior and voyaged to the French outposts on Lake Michigan.

The Ojibwas and Hurons were then occupj^ing the southern shores of Lake Superior, and coming in contact with the white race, were first supplied with firearms; which gave them sach advantage over their warlike enemies, the Sioux, that in the next hundred years we find the confederate bands of this nation driven south and west on to the plains of Iowa, Minnesota and the two Dakotas.

Here, the scattered tribes of the seven great Council fires, fought as far westward as the Missouri river; driving the Maha Indians, now known as Omahas, from their old hunting grounds near the red pipestone quarries, in the valley of the Big Sioux.

The general enlistment of the Sioux Indians on the side of the British in the war of 1812, showed to the people of the United States the necessity of building strong military posts on the upper waters of the Mississippi and Missouri. During the progress of hostilities in this second war with England the British placed their interest in the northwest in the hands of Col. Robert Dickson, a well known Scotch fur-trader, who operated within the limits of the United States.

In writing of him, in 1857, Ramsey Crooks says:

"When I first went to work for Robert Dickson & Co., at Mackinac, in 1805, they were engaged in trade with the Indians from the Great Lakes to the Missouri; and from the Wabash to the boundaries of the British possessions."

Dickson's connection with Indians, as a trader, was with the Sioux, and his business extended to the plains of Dakota. With headquarters at Prairie du Chien, he operated trading posts at Traverse de Sioux, Big Stone Lake and on Elm river, a small tributary of the Saint Jacques, or James river.

Captain Zebulon Pike met Dickson in 1807, and describes him as a gentleman of frank, open manners witli general commercial knowledge, possessing much information of the western country. He was known among the Indians west of the Mississippi as the redheaded- trader, and had great influence among the Sioux; enlisting many into the British army. •

The great chief Wapashaw, whose village was at Winona, and the Elder Little Crow, were the principal leaders among the Indian allies from near the Mississippi. But Joseph Renville, a mixed blood Sisseton Sioux, was perhaps the most influential recruiting officer among the Dakota bands; and was given a captain's commission and pay for his services in enlisting Indians in the British army. Among the twenty-two Sisseton and Yanktonwan Sioux who were enlisted into the British service were two famous warriors from the Dakota plains — the two Wanatons, father and son.

While in charge of Dickson's trading post at Big Stone Lake, Renville visited the famous warriors at their village on the old war trail leading to the Missouri river, and enlisted them in his compan3^ Joining his forces with the Minnesota Indians, Renville marched eastward to Lake Michigan, where they were recruited into the British service. The offlcer in command at Mackinac received Renville and his contingent of Minnesota and Dakota Indians with great honors. The elder Wapashaw, father of Wapashaw the II, had fought with the British many j^ears before; and was honored with a song, the following lines being the last refrain:

"Hail to great Wapashaw!

Soldiers, your triggers draw!

Guards! wave the colors and give him the drum;

Choctaw and Chickasaw,

Whoop for great "Wapashaw, Raise the portcullis, the King's friend has come."

The scene of the campaign of 1813 comprehended the whole northern frontier of the United States. The army of the west under General Harrison was stationed near the head of Lake Erie. Michigan, of which Detroit was the prominent tovvn, had been overrun and taken by the British, and was still in their possession, causing the citizens along tlie western frontier to induce General Harrison to undertake a re-conquest of that territory, d.uring a winter campaign. Accordingly, General Winchester was sent out in advance of the main army with eight hundred Kentuckians.

While marching along, this detached command attacked a British force at Frenchtown, a small village on the river Raisin, twenty six miles from Detroit. The Americans defeated the British and encamped near the battle-field, a portion of their forces being protected by a picket fence, surrounding a small inclosure. Early in the morning of the 22nd of January, they were attacked by a large force of British and Indians, commanded by Col. Proctor. The American troops encamped in the open field were thrown into disorder, and while attempting to escape many were killed by hostile Indian allies — led by Itasappa, Little Crow, and Roundhead.

General Winchester and Col. Lewis were taken prisoners by the British, but their troops behind the pickets fought and maintained their position with undaunted bravery- Here, the younger Wanaton from the Dakota plains, was wounded, but continued in the battle fighting the American soldiers, and was present during the massacre, on the following day.

Col. Proctor assured General Winchester that if the remainder of his forces would immediately surrender, they should be protected from massacre, otherwise he would set fire to the village and leave it in the hands of the savages.

Intimidated by this threat General Winchester sent an order for the troops to surrender, and the British commander hastily retreated to the harbor of Maiden, on Lake Erie; leaving the wounded American soldiers unprotected in the village of Frenchtown. The Indians accompanied the retreating British forces a few miles, but returned the next morning and massacred the wounded Americans that were left in the village. The infamy of this bloody tragedy was charged up to the British commander, who had bound himself by a solemn engagement to restrain the savages from butchering the wounded soldiers.

General Harrison was marching to the support of Vv^inchester's command, w^hen the tidings of his defeat at Frenchtown reached him. Unable to proceed against a superior force, he took post at a place called the Rapids, on the Menominee river, where he built a fort, named Fort Meigs, in honor to the Governor of Ohio.

Here, at this old landmark, he was attacked by a superior force of British and Indians, including Chief Little Crow and his contingent of Dakota Sioux. The siege of Fort Meigs began on the 29th of April and was sustained by General Harrison and his troops for a period of twelve days of constant fighting; being raised by General Clay with a force of twelve hundred men.

The young Dakota chief, Waneta, fought in the battles at Port Meigs, under the celebrated Tecumseh, and witnessed the death of the brave Colonel Dudley, on the banks of the Menominee. He was again wounded in battle there, and retreated with the British forces.

On the 10th of September the naval battle on Lake Erie was fought, and Commodore Perry's victory enabled General Harrison to move his army on the Sandusky river, where he was joined by a force of Ohio militia and four thousand Kentuckians,— the flower of the state,— with Governor Sheldon at their head; anxious to avenge the bloody tragedy at Prenchtown. With the co-operation of the victorious American fleet on Lake Erie, General Harrison embarked his forces on the 27th of September and sailed for the harbor of Maiden, reaching it the same day. But the British had destroyed their stores and public works and retreated with their Indian allies along the river Thames, in the direction of the old Moravian villages.

On the 5th of October, the battle of the Thames was fought, by which, the British army fell into the hands of the Americans. The great war chief, Tecumseh, was killed, and his Indian warriors fled.

The wampum belt of the false prophet was no more seen around their flickering campfires. Its supernatural power was unheeded by the surviving Dakota warriors, as they filed past the graves of their buried dead — near the tragic scenes of bloody turmoil. Taking a westerly direction, by the northern route, they returned to the Dakotas.

Upon the return of the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1806, Manual Lisa, a Spanish trader voyaged up the Missouri reaching the Mandan villages, where a trading house was established in the fall of 1807, with a branch house on the Yellowstone at the mouth of the Big Horn river. John Coulter and William Potts, were sent out from the new outpost on the Yellowstone to seek the friendly Crow Indians and inform them that they could exchange furs for the white man's goods at the new fort. Having iDarticipated in the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Coulter and Potts were tempted to visit an ideal hunting ground on a tributary to Jelferson's fork of the Missouri.

While setting their traps one morning they were surrounded by the wild Blackfeet Indians. Potts was killed and Coulter was captured to be tortured by the warriors. After considerable parleying the savages finally decided to strip Coulter and allow him. to run for his life. The chief of the band led him out upon the prairie, two hundred yards in advance, and told him to go and save himself. Then commenced his great race for life, so vividly portrayed in Washington Irving's Astoria, Coulter escaped, taking a circuitous route back to Lisa's trading house on the Yellowstone; and was the first white man to discover the Yellowstone Park.

We fimd on Clark's map of the upper Missouri, published in 1814, a long circuitous line marked "Coulter's route, in 1807."

Manual Lisa returned to Saint Louis in the fall of 1807, and again voyaged to the upper Missouri the following year, accompanied by Major Andrew Henry, who built a trading post at the three forks of the Missouri. There, he was attacked by the hostile Blackfeet and driven with his men westward to the Snake Indians. In the meantime, Lisa had returned to Saint Louis to sell his furs, and not hearing from Henry and his men he started out his third expedition up the Missouri, in 1811. "We find in Irving's Astoria, a vivid account of this trip up the Missouri, and Lisa's quarrel with Hunt's men at a point on the river nearly west from the present city of Pierre, South Dakota. Lisa returned to Saint Louis with Major Henry and his men in the summer of 1812, taking all his property down to his new trading post, near Omaha. He reported that the Sioux were being drawn into a great Indian confederacy through British influence, and he imparted to General Clark, who was then Governor of Missouri, a proposed plan of action to protect the upper Missouri from invasion by the hostile tribes.

The Spanish trader's plan of campaign was accepted, and Lisa was commissioned as sub-agent over all the Indians in the Missouri river country, above the mouth of the Kansas.

State papers published in 1814, praise Lisa for his work, saying: "He has been of great service the last year, in preventing British influence by sending large parties of Indians to war." However, there is no published report showing that Lisa took part in the war of 1812 — 13; other than as his interest as an Indian trader demanded.

He resided at Fort Lisa, above Omaha, during the four years he was sub-agent of the upper Missouri tribes; and during that time made visits in the Dakota country as far up the river as the "Grand Detour," or Great Bend, near the present city of Chamberlain, South Dakota.

He had established a small trading house on an island in the Missouri near there, which he visited, and through his influence the Yankton bands of Sioux continued loyal to the Americans. Lisa was the only fur trader above the mouth of the Platte during the war of 1812, as many traders suspended operations owing to heavy losses caused by the accumulation of motheaten furs in Saint Louis ware -houses.

Doane Robinson in his history says:

"When Captain Zebulon Pike explored the Mississippi in 1806, he met a Sioux Indian at the mouth of the Saint Peter river whom he was particularly pleased with owing to his friendliness and intelligence, speaking of him as "my friend, who assisted in the treaty to secure a military reservation here." This Indian's name was Tahama, the Rising Moose, better known among the white men as "the one-eyed Sioux."

He was constant in his friendship to the Americans; and when Little Crow and other leading chiefs of the Mississippi Sioux were induced to join the British under Joseph Renville, Tahama offered his servises to Governor Clark, of Missouri, as scout and messenger."

He was sent up the Missouri to Lisa's trading house in 181-1, and he was escorted to the mouth of the James river by old trappers from Lisa's fort. From there he made his way to the Mississippi, by way of the old French route to Prairie Du Chien. His mission was to visit the Mississippi Sioux, inform them of the friendly feeling among the Missouri Indians, and get what information he could relating to the movements of Col. Dickson on the Mississippi.

Tahama was accompanied from the James river by a band of Yankton warriors, to the headwaters of the Des Moine, where he found friends who assisted him. When he arrived at Prairie Du Chien, Dickson had him arrested and thrown in the guard house. His pack was searched for letters, and information was demanded of him relating to the movements of the Americans on the Missouri, this information Tahama refused to give and finding that he could not be intimidated, Dickson released him and Tahama returned to his village at the falls of Saint Anthony.

He voyaged down the Mississippi to Saint Louis in the spring of 1815, reaching Prairie Du Chien in time to see the English abandon that post in conformity to the treaty of peace. As the British soldiers marched out they hoisted the American flag over it and then set the building on fire. Seeing this, Tahama rushed into the burning Fort and rescued the flag.

Tahama visited Saint Louis in 1814, and was present at the council held by Gen. Clark with the forty-six Indian chiefs from the upper Mississippi and Missouri country, and on this occasion was presented with a medal of honor, and given a captains uniform. He was commissioned chief of the Minnesota Sioux, and was respected and honored by the whites and his own people unlil his death, which occurred in April, 1860 at the age of 85 years.

Manuel Lisa resigned his commission as sub-agent of the upper Missiouri Indians July 1st, 1817. His letter of resignation was written at Saint Louis and reads as follows:

"His excellency Governor Clark, Dear Sir:

I have the honor to remit to you the commission of sub- agent which j'ou were pleased to bestow upon me for the control of the Indian nations which inhabit the Missouri country above the mouth of the Kansas. And I pray you accept my resignation of that appointment.

The circumstances under which I do this, demand of me some explanation of the actual state of these Indians and of my own conduct during the time of my sub-agency.

Whether I deserve well or ill of the government depends upon the solution of the following questions.

1st, Are the Indians of the Missouri more or less friendly to the United States than at my appointment? 2nd, Are they altered better or worse in their own conditions at this time?

3rd, I received this appointment when war was raging between the United States and Great Britain, and when the activity of the British emmisaries had armed against the Republic all the Indian tribes of the upper Mississippi and the northern lakes.

Had the Missouri river tribes been overlooked by the British agents? No, your excellency will remember that more than a year before the war broke out I gave you the intelligence wampum was carried by British influence along the banks of the Missouri; and that all the nations of this great river were excited to join the universal confederacy, of which the Prophet was the instrument and British traders the soul.

The Indians of the upper Missouri, are to those of the Mississippi, as four is to one; and their weight would be great if thrown into the scale against us.

They did not arm against the republic; on the contrary they armed against Great Britain and struck the lowas, the alUes of that power.

When peace was declared, more than forty chiefs had intelhgence and council with me, and together we were to carry on an expedition of several thousand warriors against the upper Mississippi tribes and silence them.

These things are known to your excellency.

To the end of the war, therefore, the Indians of the Missouri country continued friends of the United States.

How are they now when I lay down my appointment? Still friends, hunting in peace upon their own grounds, and we are trading with them in security, — while the Indians of the upper Mississippi give signs of enmity and require the presence of a military force.

Therefore, the first question resolves itself to my advantage.

Before I ascended the Missouri as sub-agent, your excellency remembers what was accustomed to take place. The Indians of the river killed, robbed and pillaged the traders.

These practices are no more. Not to mention others, my own establishments furnish the example of distruction then, of safety now.

I have one at the Mahas (Omahas) more than six hundred miles up the Missouri, and another one among the Sioux six hundred miles further up, employing one hundred men; owning large quantities of horses, horned cattle, hogs and domestic fowls. And not one has been stolen by the Indians except some few solitary thefts that were perpetrated at the instigation of white men, who are my enemies.

Nor do I consider the death of Pedro Antonio, shot this spring, as an act of open hostihty; for a man is sometimes shot among us who is not stripped or mutilated— a hostile Indian custom. And thus the morals of the Indians are better and the second question remits to my advantage.

But I have had some success as a trader, and this gives rise to many reports. "Manuel must cheat the government, and Manuel must cheat the Indians, otherwise Manuel could not bring down every summer so many boats loaded with rich furs." Good, my accounts will show whether I receive anything from the government out of which to cheat it. A poor five hundred dollars a year as sub-agent salary does not buy the to bacco for them who call me Father. Cheat the Indians? The respect and friendship which they have for me; the security of my possessions in the heart of their country, respond to this charge and declare with actions louder than tongues of men, that this is not true.

"But Manuel gets so much cheap furs." Well, I will try and explain it. First, I put into operation great activity, and go a great distance while some are considering whether to start today or tomorrow. I impose on myself great hardships and privations — ten months of the year being buried in the wilderness a vast distance from my home. I appear as the benefactor, and not as the pilliger of the Indians. I carry among them the seed of the large pompion from which I have seen in their possession the fruit weighing one hundred pounds, also the large bean the potato and turnip; these vegetables making a comfortabe part of their subsistance. My blacksmiths work for them, charging nothing, and I lend them traps only demanding preference in their trade. My establishments are the refuge of the weak and old men no longer able to follow their moving lodges; and by this means I have acquired the confidence and friendship of these nations and the consequent choice of their trade.

These things have I done and I propose to do more.

The Arickaras the Mandans and the Assinaboins find themselves near the establishments of Lord Selkirk upon the Red River of the North. They can communicate with them in two or three days. And the evils of such communications will strike the minds of all persons; and it is for those who can handle the pen to dilate upon them.

To counteract their influence I form another establishment on the Missouri and shall labor to draw upon the esteem of those nations, and prevent their trade from passing to the hands of foreigners.

I regret to have troubled your excellency with this exposion. It is right for you to know and hear what is said of a public agent, and so to weigh it, and consider the source from which it comes.

In ceasing to be in the employment of the United States I shall not cease to be less devoted to its interests.

I have suifered enough in person and property under a different government, to know how to appreciate the one under which I now live.

I have the honor to be with the greatest respect, Your Excellency's Obedient Servant.

Manual Lisa."

Chapter II

Kearney's Expedition in 1820-=Indian Guide Loses Way -"Feast With Red Wing=-=Marriage of Lieut. Qreen

OFFICIAL reports and documents, published in old annals of congress, informs us that at the close of the war of 1812 army officials were instructed to inquire into the expediency of building two new forts beyond the pioneer settlements; on the upper waters of the Missisippi and Missouri rivers.

In the summer of 1819, Lieutenant Col. Henry Leavenworth of the 5th U. S. infantry, set out from old Fort Crawford near Prairie du Chien, with the advance guard to establish a new military post at the mouth of the St. Peter's river. Leavenworth's force consisted of about one hundred soldiers and twenty boatmen, with the necessary supplies and material to commence building Fort Saint Anthony. Before the new post was finished Col. Leavenworth was tramsferred to the 6th U. S. infantry and sent up the Missouri river to complete Fort Atkinson, which was being built at the old Council Bluffs, on the west side of the Missouri river, above Omaha. The work of construction on the new fort on the Mississippi, at the mouth of the St. Peter's river, was taken up and completed by Colonel Josiah Snelling which when inspected, so impressed General Winfield Scott, that upon his recommendation the name was changed in 1824 to Fort Snelling, by which it is now known.

In 1907, the author of these war stories learned that an old manuscript journal, written by the late General Stephen W. Kearney in 1820, was presented to the Missouri Historical society — acquired by gift from the late Charles Kearney, of St. Joseph, Missouri. Upon inquiry a letter was received from the vice-president of the society allowing permission to get a typewritten transcript from the old journal, which was a narrative of travel by a small military force in 1820, while establishing an overland route between Fort Atkinson on the Missouri and the new fort on the Mississippi at the mouth of the St. Peter's river. General Kearney was then a captain in the 6th U. S. infantry The journal commences on July 2nd, as follows:

"Left Council Bluffs for St. Peters at 7 a. m. Our party consists of Lieutenant Col. Morgan (of the 12th infantry) myself. Captain Magee, Lieutenant Petlands and Talcott, with fifteen soldiers, four servants, an Indian guide with his wife and pappoose, eight mules and seven horses. Captain Magee and the fifteen soldiers, assisted by Lieut. Talcott of the engineers, compose an exploring party to discover a route across the country between the two posts. Reached Lisa's about 9 o'clock and sent a boat with our mules and horses. On her return we descended the Missouri to the Bowyer, landed on the eastern side one mile from its mouth. A strong south wind rendered it difficult to m-anage the boat. Encamped for the night and until two o'clock p. m., the following day being stormy, when it cleared up cool and pleasant."