Discoveries in the ruins of Nineveh and Babylon : with travels in Armenia, Kurdistan and the desert : being the result of a second expedition

Front matter

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Preface

stance availed myself of the labors of other writers, or of the help of friends, without due acknowledgments. I have endeavored to assign to every one his proper share in the discoveries recorded in these pages.

I am aware that several distinguished French scholars, amongst whom I may mention my friends, M. Botta and M. de Saulcy, have contributed to the successful deciphering of the Assyrian inscriptions. Unfortunately I have been unable to consult the published results of their investio-ations. If, therefore, I should have overlooked in any instance their claims to prior discovery, I have to express my regret for an error arising from ignorance, and not from any unworthy national prejudice.

Doubts appear to be still entertained by many eminent critics as to the progress actually made in deciphering the cuneiform writing. These doubts may have been confirmed by too hasty theories and conclusions, which, on subsequent investigation, their authors have been the first to withdraw. But the unbiassed inquirer can scarcely now reject the evidence which can be brought forward to confirm the general accuracy of the interpretations of the inscriptions. Had they rested upon a single word, or an isolated paragraph, their soundness might reasonably have been questioned ; when, however, several independent investigators have arrived at the same results, and have not only detected numerous names of persons, nations, and cities in historical and geographical series, but have found them mentioned in proper connection with events recorded by sacred and profane writers, scarcely any stronger

PEEFACE.

IX evidence could be desired. The reader, I would fain hope, AviU come to this conclusion when I treat of the contents of the various records discovered in the Assyrian palaces.

1 have endeavored to introduce into these pages as many illustrations from the sculptures as my limits would admit. I have been obliged to include the larger and more elaborate drawings of the bas-reliefs in a folio volume, which will form a second series of the Monuments of Nineveh, and wiU be published at the same time as the present work.

I trust it may not be inferred from any remark I have been induced to make in the following pages, that I have any grounds of personal complaint against the Trustees of the British Museum. From them I have experienced uniform courtesy and kindness, which I take this opportunity of acknowledging with gratitude ; but I cannot, at the same time, forbear expressing a wish, felt in common with myself by many who have the advancement of national education, knowledge, and taste sincerely at heart, that that great establishment, so eminently calculated to promote this important end, should be speedily placed upon a new and more efficient basis.

To Mr. Thomas Ellis, who has enabled me to add to my work translations of inscriptions on Babylonian bowls, now for the first time, through his sagacity, deciphered ; to those who have assisted me in my labors, and especially to my friend and companion, Mr. Hormuzd Eassam, to the Rev. Dr. Hincks, to the Rev.

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PKEFACE.

S. C. Malan, who has kindly allowed me the use of his masterly sketches, to Mr. Fergusson, Mr. Scharf, and to Mr. Hawkins, Mr. Birch, Mr. Yaux, and the other officers of the British Museum, I beg to express my grateful thanks and acknowledgments.

London, January, 1853.

Ivory Oixiaraent, from lilimroud.

Chapter I

The Trustees of the British Museum resume Excavations at Nineveh. — Departure from Constantinople. — Description of our Party. — Cawal Yusuf. — Roads from Trebizond to Erzeroom. — Description of the Country. —

Varzahan and Armenian Churches. — Erzeroom. — Reshid Pasha The

Dudjook Tribes. — Shahan Bey. — Turkish Reform. — Journey through Armenia. — An Armenian Bishop, — The Lakes of Shailu and Nazik. — The Lake of Wan . . . . . Page 1

Chap. II

The Lake of Wan. — Akhlat. — Tatar Tombs. — Ancient Remains. — A Dervish. — A Friend. — The Mudir. — Armenian Remains. — An Armenian Convent and Bishop. — Journey to Bitlis. — Nimroud Dagh. — Bitlis. — Journey to Kherzan. — Yezidi Village - - - 23

CHAP. III. Reception by the Yezidis — Village of Guzelder. — Triumphal March to

Redwan. — Redwan. — Armenian Church Mirza Agha The Melek

Taous, or Brazen Bird. — -Tilleh. — Valley of the 7'igris. — Bas-reliefs.

— Journey to Dereboun — to SemU — Abde Agha. — Journey to Mosul.

— The Yezidi Chiefs. — Arrival at Mosul. — Xenophon’s March from the

Zab to the Black Sea - - - ~ - - 42

Chap. IV

State of the Excavations on my Return to Mosul. — Discoveries at Kouyunjik. — Tunnels in the Mound. — Bas-reliefs representing Assyrian Conquests — A Well. — Siege of a City. — Nature of Sculptures at Kouyunjik. — Arrangements for Renewal of Excavations. — Description of Mound. — Kiamil Pasha. — Visit to Sheikh Adi. — Yezidi Ceremonies. — • Sheikh Jindi. — Yezidi Meeting. — Dress of the Women. — Bavian. — Ceremony of the Kaidi. — Sacred Poem of the Yezidi. — Their Doctrines.

— Jerraiyah. — Return to Mosul - - - -66

CONTEXTS.

xii

Chap. V

Renewal of Excavations at Kouynnjik. — First \isit to Nimroud. State of Ruins. — Renew Excavations in Mound. — The Abou Salman Arabs. • Visit of Colonel Rawlinson. — Latiff Agha. — Mr. H. Rassam. The Jebour ^Vorkmen at Kouyunjik. — Discoveries at Kouynnjik. Sculptures representing moving of great Stones and Winged BuUs. — Methods adopted. — Similar Subject on Egyptian Monument. — Epigraphs on Bas-reliefs of moving Bulls. — Sculptures representing invasion of Mountainous Country, and Sack of City. — Discovery of Gateway. Excavation in high Conical Mound at Nimroud. — Discovery of Wall of Stone. — Feast to the Yezidis at Mosul. — Visit to Khorsabad. — Discovery of

Slab. — State of the Ruins. — Futhliyah. — Baazani Baasheikhah

Chap. VI

Discovery of Grand Entrance to the Palace of Kouyunjik — of the Name of Sennacherib in the Inscriptions. — The Records of that King in the Inscriptions on the Bulls. — An abridged Translation of them. — Name of Hezekiah. — Account of Sennacherib’s Wars with the Jews. — Dr. Hincks and CoL Rawlinson. — The Names of Sargon and Shalmaneser. — Discovery of Sculptures at Kouyunjik, representing the Siege of Lachish. ■ — ■ Description of the Sculptures. — Discovery of Clay Seals — of Signets of Egyptian and Assyrian Kings. — Cartouche of Sabaco. — Name of Essarhaddou. — Confirmation of Historical Records of the Bible. — Royal Cylinder of Sennacherib - - - - 1 35

Chap. VII

Road opened for Removal of Winged Lions. — Discovery of Vaulted Drain — of other Arches — of Painted Bricks. — Attack of the Tai on the Village of Nimroud. — Visit to the Howar. — Description of the Encampment of the Tai. — The Plain of Shomamok. — Sheikh Faras. — Wali Bey. — Return to Nimroud - - . . - 1 62

Chap. VIII

Contents of newly-discovered Chamber. — A Well. — Large Copper Caldrons. — Bells, Rings, and other Objects in Metal. — Tripods. — Caldrons and large Vessels. Bronze Bowls, Cups, and Dishes. — Description of the Embossings upon them. — Arms and Armour. — Shields. — Iron Instruments. Ivory Remains. — Bronze Cubes inlaid with Gold. — Glass Bowls. — Lens. — The Royal Throne - - - - 1 76

Chap. IX

Visit to the Winged Lions by Night.— The Bitumen Springs. — Removal of the Winged Lions to the River. — Floods at Nimroud — Loss and

CONTENTS.

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RecoTery of Lion. — Yezidi Marriage Festival. — Baazani. — Visit to Bavian. — Site of the Battle of Arbela. — Description of Rock-Sculptures.

— Inscriptions. — The Shabbaiks - - - . Page 201

Chap. X

Visit to Kalah Shei^hat prevented. — Visit to Shomamok. — Keshaf. — ^ The Howar. — A Bedouin. — His Mission. — Descent of Arab Horses. — Their Pedigree. — Ruins of Mokhamour. — The Mound of the Kasr. — Plain of Shomamok. — The Gla or Kalah. — Xenophon and the Ten Thousand. — A Wolf. — Return to Nimroud and Mosul. — ^Discoveries at Kouyunjik. — Description of the Bas-reliefs _ - . 218

Chap. XI

Preparations for a Journey to the Khabour. — Sculptures discovered there.

— Sheikh Suttum. — His Rediff. — Departure from Mosul. — First Encampment. — Abou Khameera. — A Storm. — Tel Ermah. — A Stranger.

— Tel Jemal. — The Chief of Tel Afer. — A Sunset in the Desert. — A

Jehour Encampment. — The Belled Sinjar. — The Sinjar Hill. — Mirkan. — Bukra. — The Dress of the Yezidis. — The Shomal. — Ossofa. — Aldina. — Return to the Belled A Snake-Charmer. — Journey con-

tinued in the Desert. — Rishwan. — Encampment of the Boraij. — Dress of Arab Women. — Rathaiyah. — Hawking. — A Deputation from the Yezidis. — Arab Encampments. — The Khabour. — Mohammed Emin. — Arrival at Arban - - - - - -234

Chap. XII

Arban. — Our Encampment. — Suttum and Mohammed Emin. — Winged BuUs discovered. — . Excavations commenced. — Their Results. — Discovery of Small Objects — of Second Pair of Winged Bulls — of Lion — of Chinese Bottle — of Vase — of Egyptian Scarabs — of Tombs. — The Scene of the Captivity ----- 272

Chap. XIII

Residence at Arban. — Mohammed Emin’s Tent. — The Agaydat. — Our Tents. — Bread-baking. — Food of the Bedouins. — Thin Bread. — The Produce of their Flocks. — Diseases amongst them. — Their Remedies. — The Deloul or Dromedary. — Bedouin Warfare. — Suttum’s First Wife.

A Storm. — Turtles. — Lions. — A Bedouin Robber. — Beavers. —

Ride to Ledjmiyat. — A plundering Expedition. — Loss of a Hawk. — Ruins of Shemshani. — A Tradition. — Jebours strike their Tents. — Return to Arban. — Visit to Moghamis - - - = 285

Chap. XIV

Leave Arban. — The Banks of the Khabour. — Artificial Mounds. — Mijwell. — The Cadi of the Bedouins. — The Thar or Blood-Revenge. —

XIV

CONTEXTS.

Caution of Arabs. — A natural Cavern. — An extinct Volcano. — The Confluents of the Khabour. — Bedouin Marks. — Suleiman Agba. — Encampment at Um-Jerjeh. — The Turkish Irregular CavMry. Mound of

Mil del. Ruins on the Khabour. — Mohammed Emin leaves ns. — ■ Visit

to Kurdish Tents and Harem. — The Milli Kurds. — The Family of

Rishwan. Arab Love-making. — The DakheeL — Bedouin Poets and

Poetry. — Turkish Cavalry Horses - - - - Page 303

Chap. XV

Departure from the Khabour. — Arab Sagacity. — The Hoi. — The Lake of Khatouniyah. — Return of Suttum. — Encampment of the Shammar.

Arab Horses — their Breeds — their Value — their Speed. — Sheikh Ferhan.

Yezidi Villages. — Falcons. — An Alarm. — Abou Maria. — Eski Mosul.

Arrival at Mosul. — Return of Suttum to the Desert - - 322

Chap. XVI

Discoveries at Kouyunjik. — Procession of Figures bearing Fruit and Game.

— Locusts. — Led Horses. — An Assyrian Campaign. — Dagon, or the

Fish-God. — The Chambers of Records. — Inscribed Clay Tablets. — Return toNimroud. — Effects of the Flood.— Discoveries. — Small Temple nnder high Mound. — The Evil Spirit. — Fish-God. — Fine Bas-relief of the King. — Extracts from the Inscription Great inscribed Monolith.

— Extracts from the Inscription. — Cedar Beams. — Small Objects. —

— Second Temple. — Marble Figure and other Objects - - 337

Chap. XVII

The Summer. — Encampment at Kouyunjik. — Visitors. — Mode of Life. — Departure for the Mountains. — Akra. — Rock-Tablets at Gunduk Dis-

trict of Zibari. — Namet Agha. — District of Shirwan — of Baradost — of Gherdi — of Shemdina. — Mousa Bey. — Nestorian Bishop. — Convent of Mar Hananisho. — District and Plain of Gbaour. — Dizza. — An Albanian Friend. — Bash-Kalah. — Izzet Pasha. . — A Jewish Encampment. — High Mountain Pass. — Mahmoudiyab. — First View of Wan

CHAP. XVIII. Mehemet Pasha. — Description of Wan. — Its History. — Improvement in

its Condition. — The Armenian Bishop. — The Cuneiform Inscriptions.

The Caves of Khorkhor. — The Meher Kapousi. — A Tradition. Observations on the Inscriptions. — Table of Kings mentioned in them. The

Bairam. — An Armenian School. — The American Missions. Protestant

Movement in Turkey. — Amikb. — The Convent of Yedi Klissia 389

Chap. XIX

Leave IVan. — The Armenian Patriarch. — The Island of Akhtamar. An

Armenian Church. — History of the Convent. — Pass into Mukus. The

CONTENTS.

XV

District of Mukus — of Shattak — of Xourdooz. — A Xestorian Village.

Encampments. — Mount Ararat. — Mar Shamoun. — Julamerik. — Valley of Diz. — Pass into Jelu. — Xestorian District of Jelu. — An ancient Church. — The Bishop. — District of Baz — of Tkhoma. — Eeturn to Mosul ------ _ Page 411

Chap. XX

Discoveries at Kouyunjik during the Summer. — Description of the Sculptures. — Capture of Cities on a great River. — Pomp of Assyrian King. — Passage of a River. — Alabaster Pavement. — Conquest of Tribes inhabiting a Marsh. — Their Wealth. — Chambers with Sculptures belonging to anew King. — Description of the Sculptures. — Conquest of the People of Susiana. — Portrait of the King. — His Guards and Attendants. — The City of Shushan. — Captive Prince. — Musicians. — Captives put to the Torture. — Artistic Character of the Sculptures. — An Inclined Passage. — Two small Chambers. — Colossal Figures. — More Sculptures

Chap. XXI

Preparations for leaving Nineveh. — Departure for Babylon. — The Awai.

Descent of the River. — Tekrit. — The State of the Rivers of Idesopctamia. — Commerce upon them. — Turkish Roads. — The Plain of Dura.

— The Xaharwan. — Samarrah. — Kadesia. — Palm Groves. — Kathimain.

— Approach to Baghdad. — The City. — Arrival. — Dr. Ross. — A British

Steamer. — Modern Baghdad. — Tel Mohammed. — Departure for Babylon. —A Persian Prince. — Abde Pasha’s Camp. — Eastern Falconry.

Hawking the GazeUe. — Approach to Babylon. — The Ruins. — Arrival at Hillah - . - . . . - ^64

Chap. XXII

The Chiefs of Hillah. — Present of Description of the Town. — Zaid. in the Course of the Euphrates. — roud. — Description of the Ruin. —

coveries in the Mound of Babel.

Athele. — Excavations in the Ruin m Hebrew and Syriac Characters.

The Jews of Babylonia -

Lions. — The Son of the Governor.

— The Ruins of Babylon. — Changes The Walls. — Visit to the Birs Nim- View from it. — Excavations and Dis- In the Mujelibe' or Kasr. — The Tree of Amran. — Bowls, with Inscriptions

Translations of the Inscriptions.

CHAP. XXIII. ^‘xat°urf®o?n“' ~ Disappearance of Buildings

ruption of M ^ Babylonians in the Arts. — Engraved Gems. — Cor-

grimaae ^ City The Mecca Pil-

ioutWn^rln ^ ~ Shammar. - Tribes of

bouthern Mesopotamia. — The Mounds of El Hymer - of Anana - 527

XVI

CONTENTS.

Chap. XXIV

Ruins in Soutliern Mesopotamia. — Departure from Hillah. View

— Villages in the Jezireh. — Sheikh Karboul. luns. ”7 Afaii

of Niffer.-The Marshes. - Arab Boats. -Amve

— Sheikh Agab.-Town of the Afaij. - Description of the ot

NifFer.— Excavations in the Mounds. - Di^overy Coffins — of various Relics. — Mr. Loftus’ Discoveries at Wurka. - The

Wild Beasts. — Lions. — Customs of the Afaij. — Leave the Mars .

Return to Baghdad.

-A Mirage

Chap. XXV

Preparations for Departure. — Sahiman. — Plunder of his Camels. - Leave Baghdad. — Journey through Mesopotamia. — Early Arab Remains. The Median Wall. — Tekrit. — Horses stolen. — Instances of Bed^m Honesty. — Excavations at Kalah Sherghat. — Reach Mosul. — Discoveries during Absence. — New Chambers at Kouyunjik. — Description of Bas-reliefs. — Extent of the Ruins explored. — Bases of Pillars. Small Objects. — Roman Coins struck at Nineveh. — Hoard of Denarii. Greek Relics. — Absence of Assyrian Tombs. — Fragment with Egyptian Characters. — Assyrian Relics. — Remains beneath the Tomb of Jonah. —

— Discoveries at Shereef-Khan — at Nimroud. — Names of new Rings.

— Assyrian Weights. — Engraved Cylinders - - - 5/4