Scenery of the plains, mountains and mines, or, A diary kept upon the overland route to California by way of the Great Salt lake : travels in the cities, mines and agricultural districts : embracing the return by the Pacific ocean and Central America in the years 1850, '51, '52 and '53

Front matter

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SCENERY

OF

Preface

The year Eighteen Hundred and Fifty, is an. epoch that will be memorable in the history of the United States. It was a year that will be long remembered, as one of unparalleled emigration, suffering, and death. The official announcement of the astounding facts in relation to the Gold Discoveries in California, seemed to move the whole Nation, as with an electric shock, and a vast multitude, of more than sixty thousand human beings, were seen rushing across immense plains and deserts, and over tremendous mountains, flushed with high hopes, and eager to fill their coffers with the glittering dust. I was an eye-witness of these exciting scenes, and assisted by my presence to swell the numbers of the mighty throng.

The following pages consist of a brief description of the varied scenes I have witnessed, and the countries through which I have passed, in going the Land Route

IV. PREFACE.

to California, by way of the Great Salt Lake, and the return by way of Central America, and the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.

I have personally surveyed many of the Mildest and most picturesque scenes to be found upon our globe. I have kept a Daily Journal, while going and returning, (but not while I was residing at Salt Lake, or in California.) Of those countries I have given general descriptions. I have designed to give such plain and graphic accounts, as would enable the reader to see the various objects delineated, as though he was personally present.

The work, with all its imperfections, is hereby offered to an inquisitive "and enlightened public, by its most devoted and humble servant,

THE AUTHOR.

Near Mount Carroll, Illinois.

CONTENTS,

Chapter I

Start for California — Outfit — Mississippi river. — Companies of fifty persons recommended. — A returned Californian. — Tipton. — State of Iowa. — Lost from my Company. — Iowa City, the Capital. — Iowa river, &c. — Number of Emigrants passed Iowa City. — Newton, Jasper County. — Quarrel at Skunk river — Fort Desmoines.— Scarcity of timber in Western Iowa.— Fondness for Titles. — Inscriptions on trees, bones, &c. — Mormon settlements. — Kanesville, a Mormon town — Emigrants. — Country about Council Bluffs. — High price of Provisions. — Mormon Speculations.— Trade among Emigrants. — Organization of Companies. — Mormon Emigrants for Salt Lake. — General Character of the Emigrants. — Captain Turner's Company. — Preaching. — Crossing the Missouri.

START FOR CALIFORNIA — OUTFIT MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

April 1st, 1850. — Early in the morning I took leave of home, and with somewhat anxious forebodings traveled to Savanna, a small town and steamboat landing on the Mississippi river, thirty-five miles below Galena, Illinois. I was aware that I had now undertaken a long, wearisome, and hazardous journey; that two or three years must, in all probability, roll away before I could expect to return, if life and health were spared.

I however made an effort to drive all gloomy thoughts from my mind, and to set my face with determined resolution towards the West. My associates were nine in number. Our conveyance was two wagons, with seven horses ; a team by no means sufficient for the undertaking. There should have been twelve horses to a company as numerous as ours. A less team might suffice, if travelers knew what kinds and quantities of baggage to take on board. It is not necessary to start for California with any surplus bedding or clothing ; it makes heft and especially bulk, is generally thrown away on the road, and if not, is seldom needed after you arrive there^ Two blankets, one suit of clothing, made of strong cloth, an extra shirt or two, and an extra pair of shoes and hose, is a sufficient outfit as to bedding and clothing. To every ten men, there ought to be a cloth tent, twelve feet square. If, in addition to these. you have a few dishes, and simple cooking tools, and provisions for each, person sufficient to last one hundred days after leaving Council Bluffs, you will be prepared to go to the gold region without going through the valley of the Great Salt Lake.

COMPANIES OK FIFTY PERSONS RECOMMENDED.

I would also recommend that men go in companies of fifty or more, as it makes easy the duty of standing on guard. Each individual ought to be armed with either a rifle or revolver. It is small parties, from five to twenty, and those who are badly armed, that have been pillaged or massacred by the savages.

As to the kind of team requisite, I think it makes but little difference whether oxen, cows, horses, or

RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. i)

mules are used, to draw the wagons ; but it is indispensably necessary, that every animal be in good working condition when it leaves the Bluffs. Some companies have gone through with pack horses or mules. I think, however, that there ought to be at least one wagon to every twenty -live men, to serve as a hospital or conveyance for the sick, in case of necessity.

We this day crossed the Mississippi, on a flat boat, to the town of Sibula, on the Iowa side of the river. We here pitched our tent for the remainder of the day and night, and commenced cooking our own food, and trying the experiment of a camp life. Some one observed that it is April fool's day, and that we might yet find ourselves embarked on a foolish expedition. Sibula is sixteen hundred miles above New Orleans, and yet the majestic Father of rivers is here more than a mile broad, with a deep and strong current, moving three or four miles per hour. Distance, traveled ten miles.

A RETURNED CALIFORNIA!*.

April 2d. — Started about noon, and moved on upon a very muddy road about four hours, and encamped near a small creek. A rain came on, which continued through the night, and our company remained in camp. As to myself, I put up at the house of an acquaintance in the vicinity. A returned Californian, by the name of Pope, arrived this night at home, in this neighborhood. We understood that he had made quite a fortune, but we did not learn the amount. This intelligence was cheering to our travelers. Distance traveled, ten miles.

April 3d. — Remained in camp.

TIPTON.

' April 4th.— Moved on to within four miles of Springfield, Jackson county, Iowa, and encamped by the side of a creek, in an open, rolling prairie.

April 5th. — Encamped in a grove surrounded by a splendid prairie country. Distance, fifteen miles.

April 6th. — Encamped in an uninhabited house. Here we found good stabling and other accommodations. The owner had started for the gold region.

April 7th. — Eight miles, brought us to Tipton, the county seat of Cedar county. It has a court-house, and is a small but thriving village, standing on prairie land, one mile east of a large grove. It being Sunday, our company concluded to encamp in the vicinity through the remainder of the day. I stayed in the town, and addressed a large audience at the court-house in the evening. Distance, eight miles.

STATIC OF IOWA.

April 8th. — Early in the morning I started to find our company, but did not succeed ; and after three hours' fruitless exertion, fortunately came across a neighbor from Savanna, bound to California, who thought .1 had better proceed with him as far as Iowa City, and there wait or look for my company. I did so. We encamped in a tent, near a tavern. Thus far, through the state of Iowa, we find the country thinly settled, but the soil is fertile, the water good, and there is a tolerable supply of timber. It will ultimately be a rich and populous country. The land is high and rolling. Distance, twenty miles.

LOST FROM MY COM!' ANY.

April 9th. — At nine o'clock, arrived at Iowa City, the capital of the state. I found nothing of my company, but concluded to wait for it. The neighbor, with whom I had traveled, went on. Happily for me, about noon, our company arrived. I found they had made diligent search for me, as well as I for them, before leaving Tipton, and had arrived at the conclusion that I must have gone forward. They then started, and as it happened, took the south, whilst we took the north road to the City. We find great numbers of emigrants at this place. Instances have been known on this journey, in which traveling companions, and even near relatives, fathers and their sons, have been separated from each other, and have never met until sometime after their arrival in California. Ton might as well search for a needle in a hay-mow, as for a person lost in such an endless throng. Distance, six miles.

IOWA CITY, THE CAPITAL.

April 10th. — In this City, we learn that forage for teams is excessively scarce and dear farther on towards Council Bluffs, and grass has not as yet started upon the prairies. In view of these facts, we have concluded to tarry awhile in this place, until there is a better prospect as to feed. The teams that have already goneforward, it is said, have devoured all the hay and grain, and the road is now continually thronged with emigrants. Many companies are encamping here for the same reason as ourselves. We encamp in an uninhabited house, near the ferry across Iowa river, one hundred rods west of the city.

In this city there is a state-house, a large and splendid edifice, constructed of stone of a light color. It was built at the expense of the General Government, while this region of country was a territorial jurisdiction. There are also several splendid churches, and two or three thousand inhabitants. The buildings are all new, and the place has a thrifty appearance. In the vicinity is an extensive forest of oak timber, and an excellent farming country around. An immense number of teams are now daily crowding through the town. They are from the states forming the northern portion of the great Mississippi valley.

IOWA river, &c.

Took a look at the Iowa river. It seems to be about sixty yards wide ; at present, ten feet deep, and quite rapid. Small steamboats ascend the river to this place at high water.

"We hear a report that from ten to twenty thousand emigrants are now at Council Bluffs, and that their teams are suffering for provender, and are living upon browse. These alarming reports have had the effect to allay, in some degree, the rage of the "gold fever;" many have become discouraged, and have here turned about, and set their faces towards home. An immense majority, however, are not so much affrighted, but that they are determined to proceed, at all hazards, even should they chance to " see the elephant," trunk and all, before they get to the land of gold. " A faint heart never wins the fair lady," is a proverb often repeated by these daring gold seekers.

April 13th. — Still encamped at the ferry. The weather is delightful. Iowa City is, at this time, a place of great traffic ; the emigrants will leave in this place a large amount of money, paid out for grain, provisions, and all sorts of merchandise.

The grass upon the prairies begins to look a little green, and we begin to be impatient to be again on our way.

We remained at our encampment, at the ferry, until the 18th instant.

April 18th. — Packed up our baggage, and proceeded on our long journey, through a country thinly settled, and but a small amount of timber ; the land, however, seems to be fertile, and the soil of a dark color ; the face of the land, rolling prairie. Distance, twenty-five miles.

NUMBER OF EMIGRANTS PASSED IOWA CITY.

April 19th. — 'When we left Iowa City, two thousand teams had crossed the ferries at that place. Three or four persons are about the average to a team, so we perceive that about six thousand travelers are now ahead of us upon this single road ; and this road is but one, among scores of others, upon which emigrants are now passing along, and wending their way towards the golden region of California. We passed " Marengo," a name famous in the history of battles. It is a very small village, though named after the bloody field where "Napoleon the Great," achieved one of his greatest triumphs over the Austrians. Distance, thirty miles.

April 20th. — The road is found to be extremely good, running through vast tracts of uninhabited, though fertile lands. Timber becomes more scarce as we proceed. Distance, thirty miles.

NEWTON, JASPER COUNTY.

April 21st. — Passed through a small place called .Newton, the county seat of Jasper county, named, J suppose, in honor of Sergeants Jasper and Newton, the bravest of the brave, and who served under General Marion in the war of the Revolution. Distance, eighteen miles.

QUARREL AT SKUNK RIVER FORT DESMOINES.

April 22d. — Found several miles of the worst possible traveling upon the marshy bottom lands, bordering Skunk river. We crossed this narrow and deep stream, at a ferry, with the owner of which a part of our company and several others, had a loud quarrel, on account of the extortionary price charged for ferriage ; some physical force was used, some bowie knives and pistols displayed, and great threatenings were made, but no blood was shed. Distance, sixteen miles.

April 23d. — Arrived at old Fort Desmoines about noon, and crossed the Desmoines river, which at this place is two hundred yards wide, and extremely rapid, the water being high. There is here an old frontier fort, belonging to the United States, not now occupied as a garrison. Here is a fine flourishing town, of one thousand inhabitants, or thereabouts, and a new court-house, in which I gave a lecture in the evening. Distance, fourteen mile^.

April 24th. — Continued our course over wide prairies, until we crossed a small river with high steep banks, and encamped on the margin of the stream, at Brown's ford, in a thick grove of large oak trees. Distance, thirty miles.

April 25th. — Encamped in a small grove, surrounded by an immense prairie. Distance, twenty -five miles.

April 26th. — Encamped on the East fork of the river - Nodaway. We cross three forks of this stream. They are all fordable. Distance, twenty miles.

SCARCITY OK TIMBER IN WE8TERN IOWA.

April 27th. — All this western part of Iowa seems remarkably destitute of timber. The soil is in all places • fertile, and covered with luxuriant grass. I believe there are ten thousand acres of prairie, to one acre of timber, in all the region through which we have passed since leaving Iowa City.

At some future clay, rail roads wrill doubtless cross this immense natural meadow, on which building materials may be transported, and this vast solitude become thronged with inhabitants. Distance, thirty miles.

FONDNESS FOR TITLES.

April 28th. — Traveled a part of the day, and passed a company of emigrants in a grove, where a preacher was addressing a small congregation of travelers. I observe that an unusual number of the emigrants are professional men. Yvre have an abundance of preachers of all denominations, and crowds of learned counselors in law ; whilst almost every tenth man has the title of doctor. It has been remarked by some foreign traveler in America, that the people of the United States are peculiarly fond of titles. On this road, almost every man has a title of some kind. We have any amount of generals, colonels, majors, captains, judges, squires, <fec, &c The great number of professional men, enlisted in this expedition, would seem to argue that professional labors are not well rewarded in the United States, or perhaps, that the ranks of all the professions are too much crowded.

About noon, we arrived at a beautiful and extensive grove of second growth hickory trees, thickly covering the sides of a valley, through which runs a small stream of water. Many hundred emigrants were resting here. It was the first day of the week ; there was no preaching, but I gave, by request, a lecture on philosophy ; the audience sitting or standing around a blazing camp fire. Distance, fifteen miles.

INSCRIPTIONS ON TREES, BONES &C

April 29th. — In every grove, through which we have passed, we see a vast number of names inscribed on the bark of trees. They are the names of emigrants who traveled this road last year, or who have preceded us this. The inscriptions are made in various ways ; sometimes cut in the bark, but more frequently the bark is peeled off, and the name, date and residence, written with red chalk, black lead, &c.

Often we see a large number of names, forming a company, written with ink on pasteboard, and nailed to a tree. A folio might be filled with these fleeting memorials. Names are also written upon almost every bone, or horn, of deer, elk or buffalo, that lies bleaching by the way-side. Among the thousands, I now and then see the name of some person with whom I have been acquainted, and such an incident often recalls to mind agreeable recollections of the past. After leaving the Hickory grove, we found the country entirely destitute (f timber, and encamped at night in the wide, open p'airie. Distance, thirty miles.

MORMON SETTLEM ENTS .

Apirl 30th. — In the course of the day, passed some scattering settlements of Mormons, and just before sunset, arrived upon the bluffs that skirt the northern limit? of the wide bottom lands on the Missouri river. The rker seems still to be ten or twelve miles distant, but its serpentine course can be traced by the strip of light ereen cottonwood trees that fringe the banks. "We encamped on the summit of the bluff. Distance, thirtv miles.

IANESVILLE, A MORMON TOWN EMIGRANTS.

May 1st. — Took a northerly course along the high prairie near the bluff, and arrived about noon at the town cf Kanesville, a village of one hundred houses. It is tie center of a large settlement of Mormons. This town, and the country around, is used by the Mormcns as a rallying point, or half-way place, where 1 they commonly reside, a longer or shorter time, preparatory to going on to the valley of the Great Salt Lake, vhich is at present the grand rendezvous of this singuhr and migratory race.

Kanisville is styled by the Mormons, " the second Presidency," Salt Lake being the " first." In this vicinity ve find innumerable emigrants encamped, whose countless tents whiten all the surrounding country.

In tlis place, trade is extremely brisk at present. A great lumber of emigrants are here, whose courage has nov utterly failed, and they are putting up their teams, provisions, (fee, at auction, by means of which to raise what money they can, and return home.

In the afternoon, we traveled across the smooth level bottom of the Missouri, nine miles broad, an< encamped near the northern bank of the river, in i thick grove of timber, a little to the north of the ferr; at Trader's Point.

COUNTRY ABOUT COUNCIL BLUFFS.

May 2d. — I took a stroll through the neighborhood In the vicinity are two small villages, one at Traders Point, on the river, and the other on the Missouri bot torn, four miles north of the first. Traders' Point is i steamboat landing, and is eight hundred miles from St Louis, by the course of the river ; the inhabitant partly Mormons. The other village is an irregula assemblage of one hundred or more log huts, and ir habited wholly by Mormons.

On these fertile river bottom lands, are many fin farms improved by Mormons. This is the region wher the followers of JoejSmith first took refuge, when the_ were expelled from Illinois.

May 3d. — Council' Bluffs is the name given to tract of country in this quarter ; of indefinite exten in the state of Iowa, and county of Potawatamic inhabited at present principally by Mormons, whe however, are not to be regarded as permanent settlers.

HIGH TRICE OF PROVISIONS.

May 4th. — It is still too early in the season to stai off upon the Plains, vegetation being backwarc Many thousands are here encamped, waiting for th grass to attain a longer growth. All the country aroun is dotted with their tents, from many of which the "stars and stripes'' are floating to the breeze, which gives the whole landscape the appearance of a large military encampment. Grain for the teams is scarce and dear ; Indian corn being sold at three dollars per bushel. Steamboats from below, are anxiously expected with supplies.

MORMON SPECULATIONS.

May 5th. — In various ways, the Mormons are making petty speculations by trading with the emigrants. Every traveler is made to believe that a Mormon " guide book " and a pair of goggles are indispensable requisites upon the road. The guide book is a pamphlet of five or six leaves, and might have cost the proprietor three cents per copy. Thousands of these are sold, at pri* ces ranging from fifty cents to two dollars each ; and the goggles, in still greater numbers, are sold at fifty cents per pair, and neither of these articles were of the least service in crossing the plains.

The goggles were a miserable piece of home-made manufacture — the eyes of common window glass, fastened into a pair of "leathern spectacles." They might have cost the manufacturer six cents per pair.

I mention these circumstances to show the tact of these " latter day Saints," (as they style themselves,) at petty speculations ; they may fairly challenge the far-famed venders of " wooden nutmegs" and "horn flints."

A man in our company was severely injured by the bursting of a rifle, nearly putting out his eyes.

May 6th. — Our company removed to a grove, two miles below the ferry, for the purpose of finding better grass. Two Mackinaw boats, heavily laden with buf falo robes, touched here to-day, on their way dowr from the Yellow Stone river, and the upper Missouri May 7th. — Several steamboats have arrived witl heavy freights of provender and provisions, and th( prices of these articles have been greatly reduced.

TRADE AMONG EMIGRANTS.

May 7th. — Many of the emigrants have traveled t< this place by water, bringing with them their clothing and provisions, also money, with which to purchase teams. This makes a good market for this species o property. They purchase of those who have concludec to "back out" and return home, and these are not ; few. There is a constant trade in the line of swapping wagons and teams. One man gets tired of his ox team, and exchanges it for horses ; another gets tire< of horses, and swaps them for oxen.

ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES.

May 9th. — The host of emigrants who are now en camped in this vicinity, are persons who have rushei together from every point of the compass ; in genera] total strangers to each other, forming, upon the whole a heterogeneous mass. They are now busily engage^ in trying to arrange these discordant materials, b; forming themselves into companies, averaging abon thirty teams to each, and four persons to a team.

MORMON EMIGRANTS FOR SALT LAKE.

May 10th. — In addition to all the California em: grants, we learn that eight hundred Mormon teams ar about, starting from this vicinity for Salt Lake. Th inquiry is daily made, whether it be possible to subsist upon the Plains such immense numbers of animals, as indications clearly show are intended to be taken through the coming season.

GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE EMIGRANTS.

The crowds, for a general rule, now congregated about the Bluffs, are a merry and thoughtless set of fellows, regardless of danger, and reckless of consequences. Card playing is almost constantly going on, at nearly every tent, and in the evenings the air resounds with jovial songs, and the ringing of violins, and all sorts of musical instruments. The amount of profane language is surprising, and from a general view, one might come to the conclusion that a strict search had been made, and that all the profane swearers in the Union had been sought out and brought together upon this expedition ; still, on a closer investigation, you might find many moral and intelligent men who would do honor to any society, but thousands seem to tax their inventive powers in originating new forms of vulgar or blasphemous language.

CAPTAIN TURNER'S COMPANY.

May 11th. — "We joined ourselves to a company, called the " Western Enterprise," commanded by Captain G. L. Turner, and encamped for the present on Mosquito creek. The company consists of forty wagons, and about one hundred and forty men and four women. Our company was organised in regular and fine order. The officers consisted of one captain, four lieutenants, one camp-master, one wagon-master, and a judicial committee, to decide on all causes of com-

22. JOURNAL OVERLAND 10 CALIFORNIA.

plaint that might arise on the road, whether civil or criminal. The officers also appointed a chaplain. The plan of this organization, with the names of all belongs ing to it attached, together with a brief code of laws, was handsomely printed, in hand-bill form, and two or three copies distributed to each member. We now considered ourselves as being prepared for war, or any other emergency likely to arise, and we began to be impatient for orders to strike our tents, and commence our hazardous march.

PREACHING.

May 12th. — The chaplain gave a discourse in the morning ; about forty men and three women composed the audience. The meeting was in the centre of the encampment, in the open air. A considerable number, however, stayed in their tents; playing cards, during the exercises, and others continued their work, within a few yards of the preacher's stand. These facts gave us a foretaste of California morals and religion.

CROSSING THE MISSOURI.

May 13th. — The company had orders to pull up stakes, and move clown to the river and commence crossing. The whole company passed over at Traders' Point, in the course of twenty -four hours. Doctoi Clark, of Jackson county, Iowa, is the principal ownei and manager of'this ferry, and we are under obligations to him for his exertions to accommodate us. This ferry is in the most direct route for all who travel by way oi Council Bluffs.

The Missouri is a tremendous stream. The water is almost thick with clay, giving it a whitish appearance.

It is full of eddies and whirlpools, and the boiling torrent rushes along with amazing rapidity, bearing in its bed a vast quantity of water from the Rocky Mountains to the Mississippi. The Missouri, at this place, is half a mile in width, and very deep. The geographical student will recollect that this is one of the longest rivers on our globe. Steamboats ascend the stream more than two thousand miles above Council Bluffs, through a region now uninhabited, except by Indians ; but when a civilized population shall take their place, then this mighty river will become one of the greatest channels of commerce. Distance, from Illinois to Council Bluffs, four hundred miles.

Chapter II

Village and Mission-house — Omahas. — Advice of the Indian Agent. — Elkhorn river — Indian train. — Platte or Nebraska river. — Camp regulations. — Preaching in camp. — Loup Fork. — Crossing the Loup Fork. — Terrific storm on the plain. — Appearance of our Company. — Prairie creek — Emigrant graves. — Signs of Buffalo. — A military training. — Game killed. — Saleratus — Prairie Dogs — Elk. — Procession — Doggery — Fine location. — City of prairie Dogs — Alkaline waters. — Scenery of the Platte river. — Companies begin to scatter. — Lonely Ox — A Dog returning. — Stampede — Excitement. — Fine scenery — A singular animal. — A Buffalo killed — Dead Buffalo. — Junction of the Forks — Latitude given. — Sunday work — Hunting excitement. — Prickly pears. — Pacific railroad. — A singular little river. — Cholera ravages. — The lone tree. — Appearance of the Piatt. — Ancient bluff ruins. — Natural curiosities.— Chimney rock. — Scott's bluff. — General view of the trains. — Alkaline waters — Diseases. — Fort Laramie — Sioux Indians. — Dangers of the Platte. — The new route.

May 14th. — •Being all safely across the river, we move on two miles and encamp, in due form, posting sentinels at night. We are now in the Indian territory, have entered upon the Plains, and the campaign is fairly opened.

VILLAGE AND MISSION HOUSE — OMAHAS.

May 15th. — On the west side of the river, a narrow bottom runs along, from which the bluff rises abruptly to the height of two or three hundred feet, Along this

EETUKST THROUGH CENTRA!, AMERICA. 25

bottom there is a scattering village, consisting of log huts and Indian lodges, the inhabitants mostly Indians, with a few French traders. Here, also, is an United States' Indian agency. On a high, smooth swell of land, to the west of the village, is a Missionary establishment. The main building makes a handsome appearance. At the Mission, a school is kept, in which the children of the natives are taught, whenever they can be induced to attend school. There are two tribes of Indians who inhabit this vicinity, viz : the Pawnees and Omahas. The Government is trying to introduce agricultural improvements among them.