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The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches home, comprising a description of this wonderful country, its immense mineral wealth, its magnificent mountain scenery, the ruins of ancient towns and cities found therein, with a complete history of the Apache tribe, and a description of the author's guide, Cochise, the great Apache war chief : the whole interpersed with strange events and adventures

Samuel Woodworth Cozzens · 1873 · Scanned text · Free in the US

120,512 words · about 8 h 26 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
About this edition

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Licence: PD-US · Published 1873 (before 1884; date from the PleIAs English-PD record). The dataset curator states the whole collection is public domain in all regions (curator assertion, not independently verified); treated as public domain in the US.

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About this book

Author
Samuel Woodworth Cozzens
Language
English
Published
1873
Length
120,512 words · about 8 h 26 min
Sections
62 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain in the United States

 

Contents (62)
  1. Front matter about 1 min
  2. Preface about 3 min
  3. Chapter I. Pag! about 1 min
  4. Chapter II under 1 min
  5. Chapter III under 1 min
  6. Chapter IV under 1 min
  7. Chapter V about 1 min
  8. Chapter VI about 1 min
  9. Chapter VII about 1 min
  10. Chapter VIII about 1 min
  11. Chapter IX about 1 min
  12. CHAPTER X. A Trip to Tucson. — The Scenery. — A Mirage. — Jimmy's about 1 min
  13. Chapter XI about 1 min
  14. Chapter XII about 1 min
  15. Chapter XIII about 1 min
  16. Chapter XIV about 1 min
  17. Chapter XV about 1 min
  18. Chapter XVI about 1 min
  19. Chapter XVII about 1 min
  20. Chapter XVIII about 1 min
  21. Chapter XIX about 1 min
  22. Chapter XX about 1 min
  23. Chapter XXI about 1 min
  24. Chapter XXII about 1 min
  25. Chapter XXIII about 2 min
  26. Chapter XXV about 1 min
  27. Chapter XXVI about 1 min
  28. Chapter XXVII about 1 min
  29. Chapter XXVIII about 1 min
  30. Chapter XXIX about 1 min
  31. Chapter XXX about 1 min
  32. Chapter XXXI about 1 min
  33. Chapter I about 11 min
  34. Chapter II about 5 min
  35. Chapter III about 9 min
  36. Chapter IV about 12 min
  37. Chapter V about 14 min
  38. Chapter VI about 12 min
  39. Chapter VII about 16 min
  40. Chapter VIII about 12 min
  41. Chapter IX about 15 min
  42. Chapter X about 27 min
  43. Chapter XII about 11 min
  44. Chapter XIII about 15 min
  45. Chapter XIV about 20 min
  46. Chapter XV about 15 min
  47. Chapter XVI about 28 min
  48. Chapter XVII about 14 min
  49. Chapter XVIII about 9 min
  50. Chapter XIX about 9 min
  51. Chapter XX about 11 min
  52. Chapter XXI about 15 min
  53. Chapter XXII about 14 min
  54. Chapter XXIII about 14 min
  55. Chapter XXIV about 24 min
  56. Chapter XXV about 30 min
  57. Chapter XXVI about 17 min
  58. Chapter XXVII about 19 min
  59. Chapter XXVIII about 20 min
  60. CHAPTER XXIX. There was no response, although I could distinctly hear about 19 min
  61. Chapter XXX about 18 min
  62. Chapter XXXI about 23 min

Continue:

Front matter

THE MARVELLOUS COUNTRY.

Sold only by subscription, and not for sale at the bookstores. Residents of any State desiring a copy should address the Publishers, and an agent will call upon them.

THE

Preface

This book will acquaint the reader with the strange and wonderful history of a most marvellous portion of our own country.

It is compiled from the journal of a traveller, and is without pretension to especial literary merit; but it is offered to the public with the belief that he who reads its pages will find many facts that are new to him, so interspersed with incident of travel and adventure that its perusal will prove both entertaining and instructive.

THE AUTHOR.

Boston, October 1, 1873.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Frontispiece — The King.

Illustrated Title-page— Dr. Parker at the Bottom of the Canon.

A Spanish Warrior of the 16th Century 29

Father Kino 40

An Apache 46

A Natural Sandstone Formation (full page) 52

The Burial of Laws (full page) 54

A Moquis 50

Los Organos Mountains 60

A City not made with Hands (full page) 64

The Fortunate Shot 66

Dr. Parker , 69

The Bear Hunt (full page) 72

Jim Davis, the Emigrants' Friend 81

Initial (T) , 83

Cochise 85

Howlv Mother! is that an Apache? 88

A Deserted Apache Hut 97

Jimmy , 99

Lower Portion of the Canon (full page) 106

The Apache's Home 108

Soap and Water . 115

Meeting of Mangus Colorado, Cochise and the Author . . . 118

The Scalp Dance (full page) 124

The Country on the Head Waters of the Gila (full page) ... 132

Capture of Jimmy by the Indians (full page) 136

Jimmy Refuses to "Inter" the Crack 140

A Vase Taken from the Sacred Spring at Zuni 143

The Wheel Scene 150

The Mission of San Xavier Del Bac (full page) 156

Killed by Apaches . 102

I Return to Camp without my Hat 164

The Bishop of Sonora 172

Jimmy's Trial .179

Ruins of the Casas Grandes in 1859 (full page) 190

Plan and Elevations — (3 cuts) 191

Initial (T) ' .199

Map Showing the Author's Route 204

Capt. Ewell's Pursuit of the Apaches 209

The Stampede 218

Initial (B) - .220

The Best Shot I Ever Made (full page) . • . . . .*,".".. 228

The Cereus Grandes 233

7 *

8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Initial (T) 235

A Mirage on the Grand Plateau (full page) ....... 238

Upper Portion of the Canon (full page) 248

The approach to the Apache Pass (full page) 258

View of Pecos 268

Kit Carson 271

The Rio Grande and Jimmy on a Bender ....... 277

A New Mexican Shepherd 281

Jimmy's Deer Hunt (full page) 284

ACOMA 286

The Acoma Belle 290

The Pueblo of Lacuna (full page) 292

Jimmy in Trouble 295

Initial (O) 300

A Panther Hunt 302

El Moro (full page) 306

From Inscription Rock 307

The Eagles of Zuni S12

The Cacique 315

The Sacred Spring at Zuni 322

Don Rafael 329

Jimmy's Arrest 333

The Pueblo of Zuni (full psipe) . • 336

Zuni Altar and Incantation Scene . 340

Tenaja Taken from the Ruins of Old Zuni ....... 342

A Drinking Vessel from Old Zuni 343

Earthen Spoon from Old Zuni 344

A Coyote 345

Stien's Peak by Moonlight (full page) 356

Initial (W) 360

Burial Scene 368

Our Fight with the Navajoes (full page) 374

Jimmy's Moonlight Stroll 377

Guilty or Not Guilty ' 400

I Fall Three Hundred Feet (full page) 410

A Mountain Goat 414

Jimmy's Mother-in-Law 418

Initial (U) 432

Ruins in Canon de Chaco (full page) 437

An Earthen Bowl from Penasca Blanoa . . .440

Initial (I) 452

The Moquis Pueblos (full page) 464

The Green-Corn Dance (full page) 468

Initial (H) 472

We Treat Jimmy for a New Disease 475

Mr. Stewart 492

A Drinking Vessel from Zuni 501

A Pueblo Restored (full page) 604

J U ANITA 510

A Group of Apaches 513

The Meeting on Broadway 532

Chapter I. Pag!

The Marvels of the New World. — Cortez in Mexico. — Montezuma's Wealth. — The Kingdom of Cibola. — Moutezuma's Treasure-house. — The Spanish Conqueror's Expedition to Cibola. — Father Niza's Exploration in 1535. — Coronado's Expedition in 1540. — The Jesuits. — Father Kino's Visit to the Country, 1658. — The Cross his only Protection ; the Wilderness his only Purveyor. — The Country. — Its Inhabitants. — Their Home. — The Arts. — Their Manufactures. — Their Flocks and Herds. — Gold and Silver Mines. — Mining. — Diamonds. — Rubies. — The Fire-Worshippers.— The Establishment of Missions in 1670. — The Missions destroyed by the Apaches. — Final Abandonment of the Settlements by the Jesuits. - 29

Chapter II

Father Kino. — The Spanish Government. — Its Efforts to develop the Mineral Wealth of Arizona. — Precious Stones. — Silver. — Gold. — Masses of virgin Silver. — Wealth of the Mines inestimable. — The Mines undeveloped. — Reasons. — The geographical Position of Arizona. — Apache Raids. — Homes ravished. — Bowie Knives and Pistols the Administrators of Justice. — The most wonderful Portion

of the American Continent. - _ - ... 40

Chapter III

The Purchase of Arizona. — Its Size. — Its Cost. — The Location of the Kingdom of Cibola. — Cortez imperils the Possession of an Empire. — The Viceroy Mendoza's Expedition to Cibola. — Settlements in Arizona at the Til le of its Purchase.— Texan "Head Rights." — Santa Rita del Cobre. — A Visit there. — Ojo Caliente. — Remarkable Springs. — Immense Value of the Copper Mines. — "Wonderful Sandstone Formations. — Adventure with the Apaches. — Their War-whoop.— Death of Laws. — His Burial by Moonlight. — A Mother's Thanks. — God bless her. 46

Chapter IV

The Mesilla Valley. —Its Climate. — Wines. —Its Productions.— The Inhabitants. — Their Manners and Customs. — Los Organos Mountains. — The Salt Lakes. — "A City not made with Hands." — The Elements as an Architect. — The Temples of Crystal. — The Sacramento Mountains. — The Tularosa; its Trout. — Antelope. — A Hunt. — Lost upon the Plains. — The terrified Mule. — The moving Bush. — Suspense. — The fortunate Shot. — "Will Daylight never come ? " — The Apache's last Trail.— A Scalp. —The White Man's Smoke. — Camp at last. 56

Chapter V

The Valley of the Tularosa. — A Bear Hunt. — The Cinnamon Bear. — An unfortunate Shot. — Bruin "riled." — The Giants of the Forest. — Dr. Parker not a Successful Climber. — Bear Meat in Camp. — Fort Stanton. — The Ruins of "Le Gran Quivera." — Miles of Ruins. — A Stone Aqueduct fourteen Miles long. — Cathedrals. — Mines. — One of the seven Cities of Cibola. — Fifty Millions of Treasure buried.

CONTENTS.

— The Doctor's Horse stolen by Apaches. — Petrified Forest. — The Rio Grande. — Old Pennington and his seven Daughters.— Capture of Mrs. Paige by the Indians. — Her Sufferings.— Her Story. — Down the Rio Grande. — " Jim " Davis, the Emigrant's Friend. — Jim swaps. — Home again. — The Alcalde. — " Enough to Eat at Home."

Chapter VI

The Apaches. — The Terror of the Settler.— The Scourge of the White Man. — Eight Bands. — Their Location. — Their Depredations. — Their War Chiefs. — The Tribe as now constituted. — Their Numbers. — The Apache Pass. — Cochise. — His personal Appearance. — " Howly Mother ! is that an Apache?"— The lost Mules. — The Overland Mail Company. — The Massacre of the Fraziers. — The Bodies burned. — The Oatman Family. — Their Attempt to cross the Desert. — Their Surprise by the Apaches. — The Massacre. — Escape of Lorenzo. — He returns and finds the dead Bodies of his Father, Mother, and Sister. — Olive and Mary Captives. — Lorenzo's Sufferings. — The Fate of the Girls. — Their Tortures. — Slaves for four Years.

— Death at last releases little Mary. — Olive buries her Sister at Night. — Olive finally purchased. — Olive and Lorenzo meet. — Mangus Colorado, the White Man's Friend.

— The Tonto Apaches. 83

Chapter VII

Negotiations with Cochise. — He agrees to accompany me to the Apnche Village as my Guide. — Our Journey. — A Mirage. — The Country. — Its general Features. — A Canon on the Gila. — Thrilling Account of its Descent. — The " Jornada del Mwrte? or Journey of Death. — All the while gaining Light, though losing Strength. — Nature's wonder-

CONTENTS.

ful Organ. — Cathedrals. — Castles. — Rotundas. — Ravines. — Chasms. — Mountains. — The Apache Scouts. — The Bluff. — Our first Sight of the "Apache Home." — Its beautiful Situation. — Our Reception. — A Description of the Valley and its Inhabitants. — My first Night among the Apaches. — A Dance. — As villanous a Crowd as " ever cut a Throat." 97

Chapter VIII

My second Night in an Apache Village. — Soap and Water.

— The Soap Plant. — An Alarm. — Are they Mojaves or Apaches ? — Great Excitement. — Arrival of Mangus Colorado. — The Plunder. — The Scalps. — His Welcome to the White Man. — What Cochise says. — A Description of the Great Apache Chief. — His reception by his Tribe. — Gold.

— A Mule flayed alive. — A terrible Sight. — A Feast in Preparation. — My Invitation thereto. — I modestly decline.

— The Scalp Dance and Feast. — Mule Meat in demand. — A Description of the Dance. — The Feast, and who partook.

— Sick and disgusted. — A Description of the Valley by Moonlight. — Wonderful Effect of the Camp Fires. — The Apaches' Creed. — Thrilling Account of the Sacrifice of a beautiful Mexican Girl. — Her Ashes scattered to the Winds. 114

Chapter IX

I want to go Home. — The advice of Cochise. — The Women and Children of the Mancheria. — The Navajoe Country. — How the Navajoes make Blankets. — Their Manners and Customs. — Their Religion. — Singular Superstition regarding a Firebrand. — Its origin. — How the Apaches tan Deer-skins. — A visit from Mangus Colorado. — Diplomacy. — I lose a Mule, but not my Scalp. — Adieu to the Apache

CONTENTS.

Bancheria. — On the Trail. — Vhe Scenery. — The Organ of the Almighty ; His hand fingers the Keyboard. — Morning.

— An alarm. — We meet Friends. — Dr. Paiker and Jimmy. — Jimmy's Experience in crossing the Canon. — He refuses to "inter the Crack." — A ludicrous Adventure.

— Captured by the Apaches. — Startling Effect of the Fire in the Canon. — "Down into Hell without the Absolution of a Praste, or the Satisfaction of dyin'." — We recross the Canon. — Arrival at the Apache Pass. 127

CHAPTER X. A Trip to Tucson. — The Scenery. — A Mirage. — Jimmy's

Pursuit of a Bath. — His Return. — He "dont know."

Our Camp for the Night. — A dry Run, a wet Run, before Morning. —We lose our Wheels. — A Search for them.— Jimmy's Consternation. — The Lake and the Mountain Torrent too much for him. — " The Lake as dhry as powther."

— Where are our Wheels? — "The Divil has 'em." A

Fix, and how we got out of it. — Once more on the Road.

— A Mescal Distillery. — How they make it, and how they

drink it. — Jimmy the Worse for it. — Arrival at Tucson.

The City and its Inhabitants. — The Santa Cruz. — The Mission of San Xavier del Bac. — Built in 1678 by the Jesuits. — Its great architectural Beauty. — Description of

the Buildings. — Its Lesson. — Desolation and Decay.

The Papago Indians. — Old Jose\ their Chief. — His Dress and personal Appearance. — Jimmy compares him to the Kings of "Ould Ireland." — Vespers in the old Mission. ~ The Choir. — Effect of the Music. 143

Chapter XI

Bill May's Ranche. — Bill's History. — How he "bags" the Apaches.— His Story. — The Valley of the Santa Cruz.—

CONTENTS.

Arrival at Tubac. — Its Inhabitants and Trade. — Description of the Town. — "Good action." — The Mission of San Jose Tnmaccari. — Its present Condition. — Its beautiful Situation. — Apache Depredations. — Killed by Apaches.

— Captain Ewell. — The Patagonian Mine. — Worked by the Spaniards in 1760. — Its Machinery. — The Apaches and the Boiler. — The Ore and its Yield. — What it Assays.

— Destruction of the Mine by the Apaches. — A morning Excursion and the Beauties of Nature. — An unexpected Sight. — " To be, or not to be." — Apaches. — As they advance, I retreat. — The best Time 1 ever made. — Hatless, but not Witless, I reach the Camp. — Captain Evvell's Pursuit.— Campaigning Qualities of the Apaches. — What they can endure. — My Escape and its Lesson. — Jimmy's Ideas

of early Birds and Worms. - -- -- -- -- -- 162

Chapter XII

The Santa Rita Mountain and its Mine. — The Ore and its Value. — How the Apaches destroyed it. — The Salero Mine. — How it was worked in 1760. — Wood and Water.

— Why it is called the Salt-Cellar Mine. — The Bishop of Sonora is entertained by the Holy Fathers at Tumaccari. — He wants a Salt-Cellar, and gets it. — A Happy Thought.

— The Bustillo and other Mines. — Their enormous Yield.

— The Foe of Industry and Civilization. — Fort Buchanan.

— Visit to the Heintzleman Mine. — It assays Nine Thousand Dollars to the Ton. — Average Yield. — The brave old General. — How the Mine was destroyed. — The Arivacca Ranche and Mine. — Jimmy's first Shot at a Deer. — It proves to be a good one. — He stays by it. — Is sent for.

— His Trial. — The Evidence and Verdict. — "The gineral Diciptiveniss of the Counthry." — Venison Steaks. — Apache Depredations. — Protection. — Farewell to Tubac.

— Arrival at San Xavier. — Jimmy and the King. — A Cock Fight after Vespers. 172

CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII

A Visit to the Pimo Villages. — We leave Jimmy at San Xavier. — Our Arrival among the Piraos. — Their Civilization.—Four Hundred Miles of Acequias. — Their Houses.

— Their Weapons. — The only successful Apache Fighters.

— An Ark of Safety. — A Visit to the « Casas Grandest — Our first Sight of these Wonders of the Desert. — Their Condition.—What Mr. Bartlett said of them in 1852. — A Description of the Buildings. — The Elevation and Ground Plan. — The Pottery found here. — Remarkable Evidences of an Extinct Civilization — The Buildings supposed to be Eight Hundred Years Old. — Forty Miles of Ruins.— The Work of whose Hands ? — Father Pedro Font visits them in 1775. — Extracts from a Manuscript Copy of his

Journal, — Condition of the Ruins at the Time of his Visit.

A Description of them as Mangi found them in 1694.

Father Kino says Mass in them in that Year. — What the Government ought to do. — Speculations. — Return to the Pimo Villages.

Chapter XIV

The Montezuma Indians. — Their distinguishing Characteristics. — The Ruins upon the Rio Verde and Salina River.

The four-story Houses, and who built them. — Gold and Silver Ornaments. — Cochise and the Apaches. — The Gold-bearing Region of Arizona. — In the Heart of the Apache Country. — Virgin Gold in the Hands of the Apaches. — They refuse all Information concerning it. — Felix Aubrey's Visit to the Gold-bearing Region in 1849. — What lie found there. — Extent and Value of the Deposits. — The Indians use Golden Bullets. — Aubrey's Death. — Silver. — The Mountains full of it. — Gila City. — Up like a Rocket, down like a Stick. — Good-by to the Pimos. — Return to Tucson. — Jimmy puts in an Appearance. — What we saw in Tuc-

CONTENTS.

son.— How the Inhabitants amuse themselves. — Distinguished Characters. — A Tragedy. — Mrs. Paige again.— Shocking Sight. — We leave Tucson under Captain Ewell's Escort. — Scenery. — Apaches. — The Flight and Pursuit. — A Spirited Scene. — Will they overtake us ? — Camp. — The Return. — Result of the Chase. — Expedition into the Mountains. — What we found. — The Apaches asleep. — The Apaches awake. — An exciting Adventure. — A Stampede. — What happened, and how it happened. - - - -

Chapter XV

A Storm in the Mountains, and what came of it. — How the Apaches stampede Stock.— What Captain Ewell found.— On the Road once more. — The Captain meets his Apache Friends.— How they shook Hands. — We find Cochise at Apache Pass. — The San Cirnon. — Castles in Spain. — What shall we do ? — Apache Attack. —A lucky Shot. — Consternation.— The Return for the Dead. — I acquire a Reputation as a Marksman, and take good care not to spoil it. —Attack upon the Overland Mail Coach. — The Conductor killed. — The Great Door to the Pacific Slope.— Doubtful Pass. — Stein's Peak. — Watch and Ward. — The Backbone of the Continent.— A Magnificent Sight.— Mountain Sheep. — A Mountain Lake. — Two tiny Streams, springing from the same Source.— A Continent divides them.

— The Cereus Grandes.—A Picture. — A Mirror silvered by Nature's own Hand. — The Moonlight and its Effect. — The Soldier's Farewell. - -

Chapter XVI

Thirty-two Miles. — A Panorama. — Grand Mountain Scenery.

— Our Descent. — The Great Plateau.— A natural Route for a Railroad. — The Thirty-second Parallel.— A parched and endless Waste. — No Water. — A wonderful Mirage. —

CONTENTS.

The " Playas" of the great Plateau. — Barney Station. — How we reached La Mesilla. — Jimmy enacts "Sinbad the Sailor." — Fort Fillmore. — Visitors from the East, and their sad Fate. — Our Revenge. — Arizona and New Mexico one.

— How and when it was divided. — The geographical Boundaries. — I determine to visit the Zunis. — Preparations for the Trip. — Jimmy promoted. — About the Seven Cities of Cibola. — Conquered by the Spaniards in 1540. — Joseph de Bazemzalles visits Zuni in 1526. — He leaves his Name on Inscription Rock. — What the Abbe Domenech says of it. — Father Marcos de Niza's Explorations in 1535.

— The Arabian Negro Esteva. — The Friar Honoratus. — Father Niza " follows where the Holy Ghost did lead." — His Description of the Inhabitants. — Gold. — Turquoise and Cotton Cloth. — Father Niza and the Negro Quarrel. — Esteva sets out on a Voyage of Discovery. — He finds the City of Cibola. — Dress of tlie Inhabitants. — Girdles of Turquoise. — Gowns of Cotton Cloth. — Ox Hides. — Father Niza is received by the Children of the Desert. — He hears of Cibola and Marata. — Acus. — Totonteac. — The wild Beasts of the Kingdom. — He learns the sad Fate of the Negro Esteva. — He sees Cibola from the Top of a Mountain. — What he says of it and its Inhabitants. — He returns to Culican. — The Valley of the Rio Verde. — Conjectures. — Captain General Governor Francisco Vasquez de Coronado. — His Expedition to conquer Cibola. — His Army. — Easter Morning, 1540, and what it saw. - - 235

Chapter XVII

Forty Days' Toil. — Red Town. — Coronado's Troubles. — His Men and Horses Starve. — Don Tristan d'Arellano his Lieutenant. — The Reserve. — Description of the wonderful Country through which he passed. — He arrives before the Walls of Cibola. — Determines to attack the City.

— Desperate Assault and Repulse. — The final Assault and Capitulation of the City. — What Coronado found therein. —

CONTENTS.

The Expedition of De Cardenas. — What it found. — Don Tristan arrives with his Army. — A Terrible March.

— Coronado's Report to Charles V. — Acuoo. — Crooked-backed Oxen. — Coronado marches on Tigucx. — A Desperate Fight. — Pecos. — Montezuma's Temple. — The Fire-worshippers and the Sacred Flame. — The Legend of Montezuma. — His Prophecy. — Singular fulfilment of it.

— The Sacred Flame kept burning for more than three Centuries. — What happened in 1542. — Coronado determines to return to Culican. — An Accident. — He departs in April, 1543. — Conjectures. We leave for Zuni. — The Valley of the Rio Grande. — Albuquerque. — Kit Carson the Veritable. — .He "don't fear no Injun a-livin'." — We take a Guide. — All about Don Rafael. — Off for Zuni at last. — Our Camp at Isletta. — What happened there. — The Rio Grande on a "Bender." — Jimmy dumbfounded.

— He calls loudly on the Virgin. — On which side of the River are we? — Singular Freak of the Rio Grande. — Jimmy pronounces it " the Divil's own Work, sure." - - - 263

Chapter XVIII

On the Road to Laguna. — The Valley of the RioPuerco. — New Mexican Sheep. — The Herders and their Dogs.' — Wonderful Sagacity. — Navajoe Depredations. — What they have stolen. — Expeditions against them. — How the Governmenttreated them. — The Puerco. — In Camp. --—Don Rafael's Stories. — Game of the Country. — Jimmy determines to go Deer hunting. — He shows us how they hunt Deer in " Ould Ireland." — A Misfortune. — Jimmy's sudden Disappearance. — How the " Powther laked out of his Gun." — The Rio San Jose. — The Pneblo of Laguna.— How the Houses are built without Doors or Windows. — The Temple — An Extinct Volcano. — We ascend to the top of the Temple. — Peach and Apricot Orchards. — En Route for Acoma. — Its Situation on the top of a Rock

CONTENTS.

Three Hundred and Fifty Feet High. — The only Means of Ascent. — Water Tanks. — The Houses. — The People. ' — The Government. — Jimmy is troubled. — The Women of Acoma. — Stuffed Legs. — An Aeoma Belle. — Jimmy attempts to form a "Mathrimonial Alliance." — How we defeat the Project. — We leave Acoma. - -- -- -- - 279

Chapter XIX

Sunrise and its Beauties. — The Ladder leading to the Gates of Paradise. — The Mountain Scenery. — A Motionless Sea.

— What we find Six Thousand Feet above the Level of the Ocean. — The tawny Coyote. — Breakfast and a Fresh Start. — The " Agua Frio." — Moonlight. — The Awful Silence. — It overwhelms me as does the Thought of the Infinite. — Nature in an Eternal Sleep. — The Coyote's Bark. — I disturb the Camp. — To Bed at last. — A moan.

— Jimmy's Sickness. — His Tears. — The Doctor won't Prescribe. — Jimmy's last Chance. — He " hankereth " after the Flesh Pots of Acoma. — The Sierra Madre Range. — The Navajoe Pass. — What it looks like, Seven Thousand Three Hundred and Twenty-one Feet above the Level of the Sea. — Acoma in the Distance. — The Carizo Springs.

— What the Country west of us resembles. — In Camp.

— Reflections. — We moralize. - - -- -- -- - 290

Chapter XX

The Adventures of the Night. — A Moonlight Scene. — Hush-ah-sh. — "The poor Craythur's lost, an' she's callin' to me." — Attacked by a Panther. — Thrilling Description. — A Desperate Encounter. — We capture him. — Jimmy's valiant Charge. — Who killed the Mule ? — El Moro. — Its Beauties in the setting Sun. — The Valley by Moonlight. — Fancies. — Juan Gonzales in 1629. — Don Diego de Bargas

CONTENTS.

in 1692. — Don Felix Martinez in 1716. — His Expedition to reduce and punish the Apaches, and what came of it. — What his Majesty said about it. — The Book of History. — Ruins in the Valley. — Description of them. — The Pottery found here. — The old Watch-Towers. — The Rio Pescado and its Valley. — Lands and Crops. — Jimmy warned. — No more entangling Alliances. — The Blue-eyed, Lighthaired Zunis. — Prince Madoc and his Voyage of Discovery in the Twelfth Century. — The Welsh Miners and what came of them. — Singular similarity between the Welsh and Zuni Language. — The Story of the Negro Esteva. — Jimmy " swears a swear." — The Legend of the Rio Pescado. — How the Fish came in it. — The Rio de Zuni and its Valley. - - - r ... 800

Chapter XXI

Zuni. — Its Situation. — Our first Sight of the People. — The Products of the Valley. — Jimmy Trades. — A new Steward.

— His Chagrin. — In Camp. — A Visit from the Cacique, or Governor. — His Dress. — A Warning. — An Abattis. — An Examination of the Plain. — The Pits, and how concealed.

— Description of the Town. — Characteristics of the Zunis.

— The Women. — Jimmy has a Flirtation. — He makes a Present. — Its Object. — Tame Eagles. — The Population.

— A Church. — The Council. — The Heads of Departments.

— We visit the Sacred Spring. — No one permitted to drink the Water. — The Broken Tenajas. — Communication with departed Spirits. — Singular Customs. — Honor among the Zunis. — Jimmy takes a Drink from the Spring and departs. — We return to Camp troubled. — We miss Jimmy. — He does not return. — Anxiety. — Exercise. — A Conversation, and how it was interrupted. — Do the Mills

of the Gods grind slow ? — Nemesis. 312

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII

Jimmy in Trouble. — Hunting the Animals. — His Betrothal.

— His Arrest by the "Bazaque," and what came of it. — The Trials of two fond Hearts. — Ancient Cibola. — Its Situation.— How we reached it. — The' Ascent of a Thousand Feet — The Mountain Scenery. — The San Francisco Peak.

— Its snow-clad Summit resembles a huge Crystal. — The Country to the Westward. — The blue Pacific a Thousand Miles away. — An Emerald in a Setting of Topaz. — What we found at Old Zuni. — The Ruins. — The Monuments, and the Legend concerning them. — The Zunis' History of the Deluge. — Proofs sustaining their Theory. — We visit the Cedar Grove. — The Incantation Scene. — The Sacred Altars. — Traditions and Superstitions. — A beautiful Sight. 329

Chapter XXIII

The Zunis' Legend of the Creation. — Origin of the Nations of the Earth. — How they escaped from the Cave in which they were confined. — The four White Swans and their Mission. — How the Water was drained from the Face of the Earth. — The Mission of the Bear. — The Navajoes first come forth. — What they did. — The Zunis next emerge. — The Pueblos follow. — The Americans bring up the rear, but immediately leave for the place where the Sun rises. — The Confusion of Tongues. — What became of the Birds and Beasts: — How the domestic Animals were obtained. — Size of the Earth. — The old Men decide to have a Sun, and who made it. — How the Heavens and the Moon were constructed. — Who made the Stars, and why there are so few Constellations. — Growth of the Earth. — The three Tenajas. — The Navajoes' Choice. — What the Zunis chose. — What the Pueblos got. — As you nave

CONTENTS.

chosen so shall it ever be with you. — The white Hen Turkey. — Where she came from, and what she brought. — How it was divided. — The old Man shot into the Clouds.

— Death. — "All those who die must come down here and live with me in our first Home." — Sunset. — Our Return to Camp. 345

' CHAPTER XXIV.

What the Apostle said. — Visitors in Camp. — What they had, and how they got it. — Jimmy offers to settle the Bill.

— Bridal Presents. — Jimmy and the Cacique. — A dark Prospect for Jimmy. — Supposed Settlement of the Difficulties. — Jacob's Well. — A most remarkable Freak of Nature.

— A Death and Burial. — Singular Customs. — The Death-cry. — A Soul bereft of all Hope. — Jimmy anxious. — A Consultation. — Jimmy out. — The Midnight Attack. — Preparations for Battle. — Navajoes. — The Pits are found.

— The Fight and the War-whoop. — I am wounded. — Twenty-three Shots. — The Navajoes leave us. — We don't care to follow them. — Jimmy absent. — Why we received no Assistance from the City, — Jimmy in the Distance. — He cometh like a Race Horse. — "Save her, save her! for God's sake save her!" — A moonlight Stroll, and what came of it. — Jimmy forgets both Valor and Honor. —

— What happened. — "Howly Mother! how thim Divils did rin, though." — A Warning to all young Damsels. — What Daylight brought. — The Story of the Fight and its Results. — The Zunis determine to follow the Foe. — The Volunteers. — Jimmy's Scruples. — How they were overcome. — His Mule « bucks." — He plays " Possum." — How he recovered. — Our Reception by the Zunis. — Jimmy is boastful. 360

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV

The Result of an Inspection. — We Start. — The Trail that we followed. — The Braves charge. — Jimmy attempts to follow them. — The Result of riding a playful Mule. — A remarkable Feat. — We sight the Navajoes. — The Disposition of our Forces. — A complete Surprise. — The Result. — Our Return. — After the Battle. — The Celebration of the Victory in the Pueblo. — The brave Man's Dance. — The Plaza by Moonlight. — The Eagle, the. Turkey, the Duck, and the Crow. — Singular Superstitions. — A complete Description of the Dance. — Dr. Parker and myself congratulate ourselves with the others. — A Visit from the Cacique. — His Companions, and the Ghject of their Visit. --Jimmy summoned. — His Appearance. — The Charge. — Guilty or not Guilty? — The Answer and Defence. — The Judgment. — A Surprise. — " The Whit© Man tells no Lies." — The Cacique vindicates his Judgment. — He speaks, not with a " forked Tongue." — "Howly Mother! protict me characther." — Puzzled. — Zuni Maiden, " Requiescat in Pace" — The Scene of Coronado's Assault. — The Terraces. — "The Spaniards came, and all was changed." — Montezuma the Embodiment of Truth. — Eight Hundred Feet above the Plains. — Twilight and the Descent. — A fearful Fall. — The Sensa-

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