A treatise on printing and dyeing silks : shawls, garments, bandanas, and piece goods, in the different colours

Preface

Tlie British Government having given every encouragement for the improvement of the Silk Business, particularly in the department of Silk Printing, by repealing the Act which levied a duty of sixpence per square yard on all Silk Printed, and twenty pounds per year for a license for printing the same; it is the duty of every well-wisher to his country, to co-operate in these truly patriotic measures. A treatise, therefore, on Silk Printing and Dyeing, including the most recent discoveries and improvements in these interesting branches of art, may very naturally accompany this important era in the trade.

iv PREFACE.

The different processes described in this ivork, founded on long practice, and many years of actual expedience, cannot but have a strong claim on public attention. The numerous and varied operations through which the Silk passes, to prepare it for Printing and Dyeing, in order to produce the different styles of work, and variatiotis in colour, being amply detailed in this treatise, ivill give, even to those conversant in the business, a new set of ideas; ivhile it will direct others, who have only a partial knowledge, hoiv to conduct a train of experimental operations, ivith a certainty of obtaining a successful result.

Rapid and numerous as our acquirement of knowledge, in the art of Printing and Dyeing of Silk, may of late years have been, it must not be dissembled that we have many things yet to learn. The Author has seen printed muslins from Persia, the colours of which, particularly Blues, are very different from our oivn, and vastly stiperior to them; but of their method of acquiring them we are totally ignorant. He has also seen printed Calicoes, from the interior of our own Indian possessions, the colours of which are as distinct from those of Persia, as they are from our oivn. A knowledge of the ingredients, and the process by which these colours are obtained, ivoiild he an important acquisition to the Silk and Calico Printers of this country; tending, at once, to enrich its merchants, extend its commerce, and increase its fame.

Not having the pecuniary means, or an opportunity of making a series of esperimetits, that might ultimately lead to a knowledge of Persian and Indian colours, the Author mentions this subject, to dratv the attention of gentlemen who are favoured tvith leisure, wealth, and science, to experimental investigations, and to induce those in power to prosecute inquiries, which, in the present state of the British Empire, can hardly be urged in vain. With many gentlemen. Chemistry has long been a favourite study ; and to their acuteness and perseverance, this science is laid under lasting obligations. The branches noiv recommended to their attention, are not only useful and essential, but interesting; and he ivho shall succeed

Vi PREFACE.

iti his experiments, is sure to have his ?iatne recorded among the benefactors of his country.

For the style and manner- in which the following treatise is written, some apology may perhaps he deemed necessary; but here the Author has very little to offer. Elegance of diction is not his province. He has aimed to embody that knowledge of Silk Printing and Dyeing, which he has been acquiring through life, in plain and intelligible language, and to trace the various processes through all their branches ; and if in these he has been successful, he is confident that, from an Operative, nothing more will be expected.

Part I

PREPARING THE SILK FOR PRINTING, OR, WHAT IS TERMED, BOILING OFF THE GUM.

To Prepare the Silk, or ungumming do.

PART 11.

TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT MORDANTS FOR THE COLOURS.

No. 1. Mordant for Black, &c.

do.

for Red, &c.

do.

for Purple, &c.

do.

for Yellow, &:c.

do.

for second Yellow or Red.

do.

for Crimson, &c.

do.

for Chocolate, &c.

8, do.

for Black, through the Blue Vat.

do.

for Red, through do.

do.

for Chocolate, do.

11. Mild Paste, through the Blue Vat.

12. Strong Blue Paste, through the Blue Vat, to print

with Block, Plate, or Cylinder,

13. Spirit Orange.

14. Red Mordants.

Part III. Preparing The Steam Colours For Silk

No. 15. Sulphate of Indigo.

16. To neutralize the Sulphate of Indigo.

17. Blue, for Steaming on Silk.

18. Black for do.

19. Red for do.

20. Brown Red for do.

21. Pale Red for do.

Vlll

CONTENTS.

No. 22. Yellow for do.

23. Strong Green for do.

24. Light Green for do.

25. Purple for do.

26. Orange for do.

27. Drab do.

28. Muriate of Tin.

29. do. of Iron.

30. Nitric Muriate of Tin,

31. Nitrate of Copper.

32. Feathered Tin.

33. Calcined Copper.

Part IV

METHOD OF PREPARING THE SILK WHEN PRINTED, OR, WHAT IS CALLED, RINGING TO DYE IN MADDER, ETC.

No. 34. Dyeing, or Preparing for Dyeing. ^ 35. To Dye, or, what is called, "Rincing" Black and Red;

or Black, Red, and Purple; or Black, Red, and Chocolate.

36. To Dye the Yellow Grounds on the difFerent sorts of

Work, as Black, Red, and Yellow; Black, Red, Chocolate, and Yellow; and several other Colours.

37. To Dye Black and Purple on Silk, &c.

38. To Dye Black, Crimson, and White on do.

39. For Black and Red on Silk.

40. For Black, Red, and Purple.

41. For Black, Red, and Chocolate.

42. For Black, Red, and Yellow.

43. For Black, Red, Chocolate, and Yellow.

44. For Black, Purple, and White.

45. For Black, Crimson, and White.

46. For Black, Yellow, and White.

47. For Black, Orange, and White.

CONTENTSi

No. 48. For Black, Olive, and White.

49. For Black, Brown, and White.

50. For Black, Blue, and White.

51. For Black, Yellow, Green, and White.

52. For Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, and White.

Part V

No. 53. To make the Wax to Print ofF the Common Sieve.

54. Table to Print the Wax on.

55. The Soft Wax.

56. The Old Wax.

57. To dye the Black and White Wax-work, and the

Block- work-, do.

58. Saddening.

59. To Strip the Wax.

60. For Dyeing heavy Black and White, printed in Wax

61. The Block- work for Black and White.

62. To dye Red and White Wax-work.

63. For Red and White Block-work.

64. To dye Purple Wax-work.

65. For fast Purple and White Wax-work.

66. For Purple Block-work.

67. For Brown, Blue, and Green Wax-work.

68. For dyeing Chocolate and White Wax-work.

69. For dyeing the Block-work Chocolate and White.

70. For dyeing Orange and White Wax-work.

71. For dyeing Brown and White Wax-work.

72. For dyeing Block-work Brown and White.

73. For dyeing Olive and White Wax-work.

74. For dyeing Olive and White Block-work.

75. For dyeing Green and White Wax-work.

76. Soft Wax Pan, &c.

77. The Old Wax Pan.

B a CONTENTS.

Part VI

No, 78. Description of the Blue Vat, Rolling Frame, and Common Frame; also the Setting of the Blue Vat, and Method of Dipping the different Blues.

79. Setting the Blue Vat.

80. Dimensions of the Blue Vat.

81. do. of the Common Dipping Frame for Blue Vat, (side view.)

82. do. of do. do. (end view.)

83. Rolling Frame for Blue Vat, (side view.)

84. do. do. (end view.)

85. Side View of Common Dipping Frame.

86. End View of do.

87. Side View of Rolling Frame.

88. End View of do.

Part VII

No, 89. Description of the Steam Box and Frame ; tinje of Steaming, &c,

90. Dimensions of the Steam Box.

91. do. of Iron Frame for Steam Box.

92. Steam Box.

93. Iron Frame for Steam Box.

Part VIII

No. 94. Description of Tied- work in Spots, and Method of Dyeing the same in Chocolate, Red, Yellow, and White; also in Crimson and White.

95. Square Print.

96. Round do.

97. For Dyeing Knotted Red-work.

98. For Saddening do.

99. For Pencilling-in the Yellow.

100. For Dyeing Crimson and White Knotted-work.

CONTENTS.

xi

Part IX

No. 101. The White Discharge, and the way of Rincing and Dyeing the following colours, viz. Black, Red, Yellow, Orange, Olive, Chocolate, Dxab, and Brown.

102. For Black Ground, and White Objects.

103. For Red. do. and do.'

104. Yellow Ground and do;

105. Orange and White Objects.

106. Chocolate Ground, Brown or Olive and White Objects.

107. Drab or Slate Ground and White Objects.

108. Rinciqg the Discharge Work, or Preparing it for

Dyeing

109. For Raising or Dyeing Black Grounds, and White

Discharge.

110. For Raising or Dyeing Red. do. do.

111. For Raising or Dyeing Yellow, do. do.

112. For Raising or Dyeing Orange, do. do.

113. For Raising or Dyeing Chocolate, Brown, or Olive

Grounds, &c., do.

114. For Brown Grounds.

115. For Olive do.

116. For Raising or Dyeing Drab and Slate Grounds, and

White Discharge.

117. For Slate Grounds.

Part X

No. 118. The Method of producing fast Chintz Colours on Silk, as Black, two Reds, Purple, Blue, Green, Yellow, and Drab.

119. Making the Pencil Blue.

120. To make Mordants for Yellow and Drab, and the

Dyeing of these Colours.

121. Madder Chintz-work.

CONTEMTS.

No. 122. For Raising Madder Chintz-work. 123. Observations. •

PART XL

No. 124, Description of the Padding Machine, Steam Box, &c. and Method of Padding the Spirit Orange.

125. Dimensions .and Description of the Padding Machine

for padding the Spirit Orange on White Silk, &c.

126. Steam Box for.- Steaming the Orange on Blue

Grounds, and on White Silk do.

, PART XII.

No. 127. Dimensions and Description of Long Table for Printing Silk on, and Improvements on it. The way to make the Common Table answer for Printing Silk.

1^8. Teering Stage and Colour Box.

129. To make the Common Table answer for Printing Silk.

PART XIII.

THE NEW METHOD OF DRESSING SILK BY STEAM.

No. 130. Making the Size for Dressing.

PART XIV.

CHINA BLUES ON SILK.

No. 131. Dark Blue.

132. Pale do.

133. Dipping China Blues.

PART XV.

No. 134. General Observations.

A-

TREATISE

ON

PRINTING AND DYEING SILK.

Part I

PREPARING THE SILK FOR PRINTING; OR, WHAT IS TERMED, BOILING OFF THE GUM.

The copper to boil off the gum from twelve pieces of silk handkerchiefs, (each piece containing seven handkerchiefs,) should hold ninety gallons of water, and be set so high as to allow the liquor, boiled therein, to be run oif into vats, or tubs, which are used in preparing, rincing, or dyeing silk.

ON PRINTING AND DYEING OP SILK.

To prepare the Silk, or un- Gumming ditto.

Take a canvass bag, one yard wide, and one yard and a half long, for twelve pieces. Open the pieces, and put them into the bag one at a time, then tie it up, and put it into a copper, three parts filled with cold water : then take the same weight of the best yellow soap, and soft soap, in equal parts, as the twelve pieces of silk weighed. Cut up the yellow soap in slices, and dissolve them in eight gallons of boiling water. Put this into the copper with the silk ; then light the fire under the copper, and boil for two hours, keeping the silk under the soap liquor with a stick. When the silk is boiled in the soap liquor for the time mentioned, lift it out of the copper into a tub of cold water; then open the bag, and examine if the gum be ofi" the selvage of the pieces. If it be, edge* the pieces in the water; then winchf in more water, until the soap liquor is out of the silk. If the gum be not off the selvage of the silk, put it back into the bag, and add more soap to the copper of soap liquor ; boil one hour. Then proceed as above ; then wring the pieces, and dry up for printing.

The soap liquor that is left is run off into a tub. This is used by adding it to the next copper of silk that is boiling off, according as it evaporates.

I am certain a great deal of madder and other work is spoiled, by not boiling off the silk in a proper manner. If the bag of silk be put into a copper of boiling soap liquor, it sets the gum in the silk so firmly as not

Edge, see Note 1 .

t Winch f see Note 2.

to be got off. 1 have seen the old wax that was printed on silk set in this way, therefore it is best to begin as above directed. I also would advise that the silk should be run through a copper of water, in which is dissolved two pounds of soda ; then bring on to a heat of 160° ;* then winch the pieces in this, ten or fifteen minutes, and winch or wash in water ; wring and dry up for printing.

The different sorts of silk require more or less soap ; but what I find the best criterion is, to give the same weight of soap as of silk. Yellow soap, and soft soap, of the best quality, in equal parts, I find to be best.

* The glass for trying the heat of the liquors is the common thermometer used in brewing.

ON PRINTING AND DYEING OF SILK.

Part II

t

TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT MORDANTS FOR THE FOL- LOWING COLOURS.

[Mordants in dyeing are substances employed to increase the permanence and beauty of the various colouring matter. In the more general sense, a mordant is considered as an intermediate substance, to increase the affinity of the colouring matter, for the substance to be dyed. — Other substances are also called mordants, which have merely the effect of increasing the intensity and brightness of the colour, or, as the dyers term it, to bring it out. Of the first kind we have decided examples in alum and oxide of iron. In order to demonstrate the effect of affinity in the operations where alum is used, we may here give a brief description of the process of printing a piece of silk.

Since the earth or base of the alum is found to be the essential ingredient, it has been discovered that when the acetate of alumine is employed, the stuff takes the earth from that acid with greater facility than it does from the sulphuric acid, when alum is used. For this purpose, the alum is mixed in certain proportions with the acetate of lead and water. By this means the acetate of alumine is obtained in solution, while the sulphate of lead can be separated on account of its insolubility. The acetate of alumine liquor is then made of sufficient consistence with gum for printing. Then it

ON PRINTING AMD DYEING OF SILK. 17

is printed with a pattern on the silk ; and when dry for twenty- four hours, the silk is run through bran and warm water; then well rinsed, to get the thickening from the mordant. It is then put into a madder-bath, and boiled. The parts where the mordant was applied assume a deep and lively red, while the ground is very faint and of a different hue. The silk is then well boiled in bran and water, to clear the ground and brighten the red.

In this process it is clearly shown that the silk in itself has not a sufficient attraction for the colouring matter to receive a permanent dye, without the presence of the alumina, which, by its common affinity to both, renders the colour intense and permanent. The acetate of iron, prepared and thickened, then printed as directed for the aluminous mordant, and the silk prepared and dyed in the same madder-bath, produces a black.

No. J.

Mordant for Black, Sfc.

1 quart tar-iron liquor at 23°*,

2 do. common do. at 11°,

3 do. water,

4 ounces sulphate of copper. — Or, 2 quarts tar-iron liquor at ^3°,

4 do. water, and

4 ounces sulphate of copper.

One gallon to be thickened with one pound and a quarter of white starch and two ounces of glue, or with flour. This colour works best when made two or three days before it is wanted.

* The strength of the liquors is tried by the hydrometer of Twadell Glagow; glass, No. 1, answers for the purpose of the colour-maker.

C

Mordant for Red, &^c.

To each gallon of water, at a heat of 150°, add

4 pounds of alum in powder,

2 do. acetate, or sugar of lead,

4 ounces sulphate of copper, or blue vitriol, '

2 do. whiting.

Stir the mixture well, and, when it is cold, add the two ounces of whiting to each gallon. This will cause a fermentation; therefore, add the whiting by degrees. Stir it often for two or three days, then let it settle for use.

Thicken one gallon of the clear liquor with four pounds of gum Senegal, or Arabic, r When the colour is wanting on the scarlet cast, omit the blue vitriol.

Mordant for Purple, 5fc.

1 pint tar-iron liquor at 23°, 14 pints of gum liquor, 8 ounces sulphate of copper. — Or, 1 pint common iron liquor, and 7 pints gum liquor.

Add more or less gum liquor according to the shades required ; and, for some shades, omit the sulphate of copper.

The gum liquor is made by dissolving four pounds of gum with a gallon of water. When dissolved, strain it for use.

Mordant for Yellow, b)C.

To each gallon of water, at a heat of 150°, add fourteen ounces of ground alum. When the alum is dissolved, and the liquor is cold, then add one ounce of whiting. Of this mordant, there is usually made fifty or sixty gallons at a time.

Mordant, second Yellow or Red.

To each gallon of water, at a heat of 150°, add 4 pounds of ground alum, 2 do. pyrolignite of lime.

Stir it often for two or three days, then let it settle for use. For some work, this will be too strong, then add gum liquor according to the shade wanted.

Thicken each gallon of clear liquor with four pounds gum Senegal or Arabic, or with gum and ground pipe-clay.

Mordant for Crimson, &;c.

To each gallon of water, at a heat of 150°, add 4 pounds ground alum, 2 do. acetate of lead, 4 ounces verdigris, 2 do. whiting.

Prepare the verdigris by pounding and sifting it, then put one quart of boiling water to it; stir it well, and, when it is dissolved, add one quart to the alum and acetate, or sugar of lead. Then add three quarts of water; stir it well; and, when the liquor is cold, add the two ounces of whiting.

Thicken the clear liquor with four pounds of gum Senegal or Arabic, or gum and pipe-clay.

For altering the shade of crimson, use sulphate of copper, or common sulphate of zinc, instead of the verdigris.

Mordant for Chocolate, i^c.

1 quart tar-iron liquor at 23°,

2 do. No. 2. Mordant for red, or more according to the shade required,

3 quarts water, or more according to shade.

Add the mordant No. 2, more or less, according to the work: viz. when the chocolate or the red shade is required, add more red mordant; but on the dark shade, add more iron liquor.

Thicken one gallon with three pounds and a half gum Senegal or Arabic, or with flour, or with gum and pipe-clay, according to the work.

Mordant for Black, through the Blue Vat.

3 pints tar iron liquor at 23°, 5 do. water,

8 ounces sulphate of copper.

Thicken them with one pound starch, or gum and pipe-clay.

This colour works best when made two or three days before it is wanted.

Mordant for Red, through the Blue Vat.

To each gallon of water, at a heat of 150°, add,

4 pounds ground alum,

2 do. acetate of lead,

8 ounces verdigris,

2 do. whiting.

Pound the verdigris very fine, and sift it through a fine sieve ; then pour one quart of boiling water on it, and stir it till it is dissolved. Then add it to the alum and acetate liquor, and stir well till all is dissolved. When it is cold, add the whiting by degrees ; stir it often for two or three days ; then let it settle for use.

Thicken one gallon of clear liquor with three pounds gum Senegal, and half a gallon with six pounds pipe-clay. Then take four ounces soft soap, and dissolve it over the fire in a brass pan, which add to the pipe-clay and red liquor; mix well; then add as much of the thickened gum red liquor as will answer the work. Stir up well, and strain through a sieve for use.

Mordant for Chocolate, through the Blue Vat.

2 quarts tar-iron liquor at 23°, 4 do. No. 2, red mordant, 6 do. water,

3 pounds white copperas.

Thicken each gallon with three pounds gum, then thicken half a gallon with six pounds pipe-clay, to which add eight ounces soft soap melted in a brass pan. Strain them through a fine sieve for use.

Add more or less of No. 2, red mordant, according to the shade wanted.

Mild Paste, through the Blue Vat.

2 quarts of water at a heat 150°, 6 pounds pure sulphate of zinc, 8 do. ground pipe-clay,

1 do. soft soap,

2 quarts boiling gum liquor.

When the sulphate of zinc is dissolved, then add the pipe-clay, and mix them well ; then add the soft soap, after which add the gum liquor. Then strain them through a fine sieve for use.

Strong Blue Paste, through the Blue Vat, to print with Block, Plate, or Cylinder.

1 gallon water at a heat 150°,

3 pounds sulphate of copper,

2 do. acetate of lead.

Stir the mixture for two or three days ; then let it settle for use.

Thicken each gallon of clear liquor with one pound and a half of flour ; when nearly cold, add six ounces single aquafortis, or thicken with British gum, adding the aquafortis. This is for plate or cylinder.

Thicken, for the block, with gum and pipe-clay.

Spirit Orange.

Take from one pint nitric acid (specific gravity 1-500) four ounces, to which add eight ounces water, and one ounce of feathered tin. When this is dissolved or corroded, add it to the remainder of the pint of nitric acid ; then add as much pipe-clay as will make it very thick. Dissolve four pounds gum Senegal in a gallon of boiling water; when cold, strain it for use : then add as much gum liquor to the nitric acid and pipe-clay, as will bring it to a working state. Try the strength of the colour, and reduce it, if too strong, with more gum liquor ; or mix some flour and water, and add it to the colour ; this prevents the colour from getting thin.

Red Mordants.

The red and iron liquors, as made by Mac-Murdo, Pitchford, and Co., No. 4, Gould Square, Crutched Friars, or the Lancashire or Scotch red liquors, when mixed with the different drugs as directed, will answer for most work. The common iron liquor is made by Blake, North Street, Back Church Lane, St. George's in the East.

Part III

Preparing the Steam Colours for Silk, and MAKING the Acids, etc.

Sulphate of Indigo.

Take one pound of the best Flora indigo in very jfine powder; put this into a stone-ware or lead vessel ; then add gradually three pounds of the best sulphuric acid, or oil of vitriol, (specific gravity 1-800.) Mix well, and stir often, and in twenty-four hours the indigo will be dissolved.

N.B. By adding three ounces of sulphur to the vitriol, and heating it to 180°, then, when cooled down to 100°, pouring the vitriol off the sediment, and then adding it to the indigo, is considered the best way of opening, or dissolving, the indigo.

When the indigo and vitriol have been mixed twenty-four hours, then add three pints of boiling water. Stir often, and, when cold, it will be fit for use.

To Neutralize the Sulphate of Indigo.

Take six pounds of alum, and dissolve it in two gallons of water, at 120° ; when dissolved, add by degrees five pounds of pearl-ashes, until the acid of the alum is neutralized, and the alumine formed ; then put the whole on a piece of calico, that has been hooked in a square frame, or tied over a vessel. When the liquor is run off, then add one gallon of boiling water on the alumine, and stir it up well. When the water has gone through the calico, the alumine is fit for use.

Then add a part of this alumine to some of the sulphate of indigo, as prepared in No. 15, until the sulphuric acid is neutralized.

Blue for Steaming on Silk.

Take four ounces of gum-dragon in fine powder, add to it two quarts of water ; then boil until the gum is well dissolved. When at the heat of 110°, add half a pint of No. 16, neutralized sulphate of indigo, more or less, according to shade. Or, neutralize the sulphate of indigo as made No. 15, with whiting. Take three pounds of whiting, and mix it with three quarts of water, then add this by degrees to the sulphate of indigo ; stirring it well. When the fermentation is over, then taste, and be careful there is no acid that will hurt the silk : it is then fit for use. If acid still remain, add more whiting.

D

ON PRINTING AND DYEING OP SILK.

Blaclc for Steaming on Silk, ^c.

Take at the rate of two pounds of chip logwood to each gallon of water; boil two hours, adding water as it evaporates : then take out the chips, and add two pounds more, and water to make up what is wasted. Boil as before. Then boil down to three quarts for each gallon of water. When the liquor is cold, strain off for use.

Thicken one quart of this liquor with two ounces of gum dragon ; when cold, add two ounces or more of muriate of iron; stir the whole well: it is then fit for use.

N.B. In printing with this, use some lamp-black on the sieve, to make it work.

Red for Steaming on Silk, 5yc.

Take at the rate of two pounds of chip brazil, or peachwood, to each gallon of water. Boil for two hours, adding water as it evaporates ; then take out the first chips, and add two pounds more of chips ; boil as before. Then boil the whole to three quarts for each gallon of water used at first. Strain off" the liquor for use.

Then take the same four pounds of chips, and boil them in three gallons of water for two hours. Strain off the liquor ; then add to it, at the rate of each gallon, half a pint of muriate of tin ; stir it ; then put this on a stuff' or calico sieve ; and when the clear liquor is run off, gather the precipitate for use.

Thicken half a gallon of No. 19. liquor, with three quarters of a pound of white starch ; when cold, add one pint of muriate of tin, in which is dissolved one pint of the precipitate made as above : strain all through a fine hair sieve for use. — Or thicken with gum dragon, and proceed as above. — Or precipitate with alum, and thicken some of No. 19 liquor with British gum, adding the precipitate and some calcined copper.

Brown Red, for Steaming on Silk, 5jc.

Take one gallon of the best blue archil liquor, and boil it down to one half ; then strain it through a fine sieve. When cold, thicken it with half a pound fine starch, and add half an ounce of crystallized muriate of tin. Stir it up well, and it is then fit for use.

Pale Red, for Steaming on Silk, S^c.

Take half a gallon of white-wine vinegar, and boil in it half a pound of black- grain ground cochineal for ten minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve; then grind the cochineal in a stone-ware mortar until it goes through the sieve ; then add four ounces tartar, and one pint of muriate of tin; thicken with four ounces of gum-dragon. By using nitric muriate of tiii, you get the red more on the scarlet shade, or add turmeric or saffron to the spirits. This colour should be made in a tinned copper vessel, or white stone-ware pot.

ON PRINTING AND DYEING OF SILK.

Yellow, for Steaming on Silk, 5fc.

Take two pounds of quercitron bark to each gallon of water; boil them two hours, adding water as it evaporates ; take out the bark, and add two pounds more bark, and water to make up the two gallons. Boil as before, so as to have half a gallon of liquor, for each gallon of water that was used at first. Strain them through a fine calico sieve, and put the liquor by for use. Take the same four pounds of bark, and add it to two gallons of water. Boil two hours, adding water as it evaporates, then strain as before ; then add to each gallon of this bark liquor, four ounces measure of muriate of tin; then stir all up; then put it on a stufi" or calico sieve, and when the liquor is strained olF, gather the precipitate for use.

Thicken half a gallon of No. 22, bark liquor, with half a pound of white starch ; when cold, add one pint, more or less, according to shade, of muriate of tin, in which is dissolved half a pint of the precipitate. Strain through a fine sieve for use.

Strong Green, for Steaming on Silk, ^c.

Take two pounds chip fustic to each gallon of water. Boil them two hours ; then take out the chips, and add two pounds more chips, and water to make up the two gallons. Boil as before, so as to have half a gallon of liquor for each gallon of water that was used at first ; strain through a fine sieve for use.