Sketches of travels in South America, Mexico and California

Preface

While pursuing a journey to and from California, some years since, and during my sojourn there, I kept a daily record of " -what I saw and did." It was a source of great interest and pleasure to me, especially as it was written and continued at the desire of the dear and valued friend to whom this book is dedicated. And being a stranger, wandering among strangers, often deprived of all congenial society, it became my chief delight to note down my impressions of the countries I visited.

Of course, my recollections of events and occurrences are stronger and more vivid than they would otherwise have been, and since my return many questions having been asked by acquaintances relative to a miner's life &c, frequent reference to my journal has been made. One of the editors of a religious paper, who had often listened to my reminiscences of a life among the miners, solicited me to contribute articles for his paper, which appeared uuder the signature of Quartz : and were continued until I had communicated the principal incidents of my three years absence. These articles, it gives me pleasure to say, were favorably received, and I have been frequently requested to publish them in book form. They are now offered to the public, with diffidence and some little hesitancy — and while they may possess no literary merit, still a full and correct history of events which came under my own observation, will, it is hoped, compensate for other deficiencies.

L. M. S.

Frederick, Md, 18G0.

Chapter I

THE CALIFORNIA GOLD FEVER— A BERTH SECURED— LEAV- ING NEW YORK — SEA SICKNESS — SUN SET-CONFUSION ON BOARD THE SHIP — A SIGHT OF LAND, AC. AC.

The excitement attending the first discovery of gold in California was intense as it was universal. Indeed it was considered as an epidemic, and those who determined to seek their fortunes in that far off land, were said to have caught the California gold fever. A voyage thither, was at that time attended with vexatious delays and annoying inconveniences ; yet tempted by the almost fabulous tales of fortunes acquired as if by magic, thousands of venturesome youth and even men advanced in years, left home and friends, dared the dangers of the deep and endured the hardships of the pioneer's life to secure a portion of the glittering metal. Early in the year 1849 I first conceived the idea of a trip to California, and repaired to New York to gain all the information I could, purchase my outfit and secure a berth in one of the many sailing vessels leaving that port.

After numerous delays and disappointments, T succeeded in obtaining passage in the ship Flavius. On Saturday, March 24th, 1849, my younger brother W. and myself sat s

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clown to breakfast together for the last time ; our hearts saddened by the reflection that perhaps we might never again enjoy that privilege. Although the meal was inviting, I had no disposition to eat. In vain my brother, in his efforts to conceal his own feelings, urged me to partake heartily, for I felt so peculiarly queer ! so much like a school boy, about to leave his happy home, for a six month's residence beneath the roof of some rigid school or seminary, that I had no appetite for either food or drink. " Come, gentlemen your time is up." I bade farewell to my acquaintances about the hotel and followed my kind friends, listlessly to the wharf. It was not, that the ship Flavius was pronounced by some, unseaworthy, not that others declared she would rot ere we reached California, that I felt so sad and gloomy ; oh no, but because I was about to separate from a few highly valued friends, and I dreaded the long time that must elapse ere we would meet again.

As we hove in sight of the Flavius, we saw crowds of men, women and children standing on the wharf— some were taking a last farewell, others were imparting excellent advice, which I thought was listened to with one ear and rapidly passed out of the other, and others again were mingling tears of love, grief and hope, for even in that hour of departure, they were anticipating the pleasure of a future meeting. But hark! man overboard — "throw over a rope" — " stand back men" — " now, pull up — hold"

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— he is safe. A son of Neptune, "had a brick in his hat," and the weight being top-heavy, caused him to lose his balance, he went in drunk and was pulled out sober ! Our " A, No. 1, coppered and copper-fastened" ship Flavius, was riding at anchor as cosily as a cape pigeon just after a storm. " All aboard," whew ! what a rush to the ship — " Man the windlass" — the sailors sang lustily — cheers were given and returned — we were soon gracefully sailing from the wharf and forest of masts, under the " immediate assistance" of a steam-tug. Many friends of the California bound passengers were on board. The band of music engaged for the occasion struck up Yankee Doodle. Away we went, every passenger excited, each one gazing intently upon the vast Metropolitan city, as we receded from its piles of brick and stone.

I knew as much about a ship as a backwoodsman, and when the anchor was let go, those of us, who were unacquainted with the sudden splash of the anchor in the water, and the rattling of the heavy linked chain, started, and cried out, " what is that?" to the infinite amusement of the " old salts," who took especial delight in watching the blunders of landsmen. The steamer carried us to the Quarantine landing; and as she parted from us, cheer upon cheer was given and returned with a hearty will, hats and handkerchiefs were waved aloft. Good bye, and good bye was given and returned until the steamer

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passed out of sight — and we were left alone to await the coming of the Captain, who did not come aboard until the following day, the 25th, when we ''gold hunters" saluted him with cheers and sang in right good style Hail Columbia. The pilot took command, and off we sailed with a stiff breeze, and when we were out sight of land, hemmed in by the horizon, the pilot left us, and now we felt that we were bound in earnest for California. A few passengers were sea sick for a day or two— and if any one can imagine a fellow being utterly wretched, perfectly indifferent as to whether the ship kept straight on her course or sank beneath the waters, some idea may be formed of the awful sufferings of sea-sick voyagers. Passengers rushed to the table without the slightest order or system, the strongest secured the most food, and the proceedings on board were so aggravating, that we held a meeting, drew up rules and regulations for our comfort and convenience ; after which we managed to live along more comfortably.

Monday, April 30th. Beautiful weather, lovely sunset, His majesty gracefully descended below the horizon, leaving a sky richly colored, now representing a magnificent viaduct, underneath a fiery flame— and then assuming a more calm and lovely aspect, seeming as though the Heavens were transformed into a matchless panorama of meadows, lakes and rivulets, and these again swept out of sight by a gorgeous curtain of scarlet and crimson hues.

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About midnight, we crossed the " equatorial line," a fact impressed upon all by the performance of that absurd and contemptible ceremony, of Neptune, demanding homage of those passengers, who had " never before crossed the line." However, I ought not to complain, for his Highness, very kindly spared me the fine and punishment Not so with some others, who not only received a " terrible ducking" of salt water — but had slush and black paint thrown over them. Our Captain, seemed to enjoy the sport heartily — but I could not relish the foolish custom as much as some others did.

Tuesday, May 15th. About 10 o'clock, A. M., we came in sight of Cape Frio — which presented a pleasing and interesting view. We had so often and so long been wishing for only a " snuff" of land, that our hearts beat high, when we strained our eyes to catch a glimpse of the distant shore. Eio de Janeiro is only about eighty miles distant. Towards evening the water assumed a light green color — we were on soundings. Owing to the rather dangerous channel, and there being no pilots at Rio, as at most other seaports, we "took in studding sails, and laid to" until morning. The sunset was attended with wondrous beauty — descending behind a lofty hill, which seemed to have just jumped from under the water, and on either side of which, chanced to be a vessel, the whole presenting a novel and lovely scene. As he disappeared

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the clouds assumed a rich golden hue, followed as usual by a flame colored sky, which continued until night advanced.

As we hoped to effect an anchorage ere twenty-four hours, and a heavy dew was falling, I sought my " bunk" and was soon wrapt in slumber deep and sound.

Chapter II. Rio De Janeiro

Wednesday, May 16th, 1849. Ship ahoy! Where are you from 1 But before our captain could satisfactorily answer, there came a more terrible order from the fort. Ship ahoy ! Keep from shore — put out your boat — steer north ! Here then, was excitement — the night was dark — we heard the loud roar of the breakers, and found we were in a cross current, almost becalmed, and drifting towards the shore of rocks. Over was tossed our long-boat: in jumped strong, stout men, and away they pulled and worked, but still was our faithful old ship drifting towards the shore, amid roaring waves and vociferous shouts from the fort; confusion reigned supreme. Some wanted the anchor let go, others were preparing for a watery grave, or a sudden hurl against the rugged, naked, slimy rocks. When, ah ! all at once, we heard from the fort — all safe ! all safe !

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A brilliant light was displayed on the top of the wall of the fort, which was soon answered by a rocket from the city, denoting that the authorities were aware another vessel had entered their harbor. Our anchor was soon let go : each man told what he did during our imminent danger. Of course no one was frightened ! Finally, we all settled down in the arms of Somnus, dreaming, perhaps, of the loved ones at home.

As the light of another day began to peep over the rugged, romantic hills surrounding the harbor, I too, peeped over the side of the vessel to catch a glimpse of the city. Soon the Oustom-house officials boarded us, and after satisfying themselves that all was right, the captain told us to go a-shore, which privilege very many of the passengers at once accepted.

A party of twelve of us engaged a boat alongside to take us ashore. Our oarsmen were black as night, and they would rise up when they pulled their oars, and dance, and sing, and whistle for the breeze to spring up, which, however, had no effect, for it was calm as a summer's morn ; however, we were at last landed, and a more filthy, sickly, trifling set of beings lounging about the wharves, I have never seen before nor since, nor desire to see again. There were two hotels convenient to the landing, one of which was conducted by a New Yorker, but the accommodations were miserable. The Emperor's chapel is near by,

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but will not compare with the Baltimore Exchange. In almost every street we saw soldiers, nearly all of whom were blacks, parading or lounging about. The houses are generally two stories in height, no chimneys, as the climate is not only warm, but hot. Gardens, yards and cellars are nowhere seen. The gutters are in the middle of the streets, which are narrow and need very much the attention of the street sweeper. The mechanics and merchants, unlike our custom, congregate together ; for instance, jewellers occupy one street to themselves, so through all the other branches of trade. The ladies go abroad, only to church ; but as service is held every day, they can easily manage to get out ; pews are not used; each person has a cushion, on which the faithful can kneel and repeat their numerous prayers.

I visited a monastery, built in 1671. I was very politely received. There is a chapel in the building most gorgeously embellished, the floors inlaid with variegated marble, the walls with porcelain and China squares, relieved by gilt and scarlet lines. There is also in the room a large China figure of our Saviour on the cross.

The navy yard next demanded my attention ; but there was nothing attractive about it. One vessel was on the stocks ; but I should suppose, by the time it was finished, the wood would be pretty much decayed, for all the workmen had adopted the "take your time system,"

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Several fountains are distributed over the city, around which hundreds of blacks were collecting water in casks, which they carry on their heads to the various families, hydrants and pipes being unknown to the Brazilians ; and these poor degraded blacks carry sacks of coffee, bales and boxes on their heads, taking the place of drays and carts ; but they are short lived ; about seven years finishes them entirely.

In a large open square, without shade or any protection from the sun, crowds of almost naked negro women were washing and pounding clothes, the sun pouring down hot upon their uncovered beads, and yet they appear happy ! " "Where ignorance is bliss — 'tis folly to be wise."

The Market houses I found large and cleanly. But the meat had the appearance of lean horse flesh. They want a Yankee butcher among them. There was an abundance of fruit and flowers, birds both alive and stuffed, and fish, but vegetables and butter were not to be had at any price. Here I saw two " birds of Paradise," quite tame, certainly the prettiest birds I have ever seen.

The museum is only open to the public on Sunday. At the entrance I observed two cages, in each were two immense boa constrictors, alive and apparently disposed for a meal. In the window above was a large, lively white eagle, and pigeons thrice larger than our own. The entire exhibition is on one floorof an ordinary building, and the cu-

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riosities were chiefly stuffed birds, minerals, coins, a mummy, and pictures. I paid most attention to the birds, for I discovered that they were chiefly from our own country.

Seeing a large crowd of persons in front of one of the numerous churches, I joined them, and discovered that they were attending the burial of a wealthy citizen. None of the family were present. All the mourners were hired, each holding alighted candle, and standing in military array, while around the corpse, which was exposed on an elevated bier, richly gilt, the officiating priests were sprinkling holy water, and chanting Latin prayers ; after which the corpse was carried by four priests, followed by the crowd, into an adjoining apartment, where it was placed in an aperture in the wall and left exposed ; a few more chaunts and prayers, and we were ordered out. It appears the bodies are covered with lime, and when the flesh is destroyed, the bones are thrown into a common pit.

The prevailing religion throughout the state is Roman Catholic, and crosses are placed on the top of every public building.

I found a number of Americans doing business out here, who, of course, are visited by their countrymen whenever they arrive, and appear to be prosperously employed.

Upon the whole, Rio is not a desirable place of residence, but the surrounding country is delightful ; scenery grand, and people hospitable.

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Our captain notified me that the ship was ready to sail, so I jumped aboard a boat, and gave a final adieu to Brazil, and was soon treading the decks of our American vessel, with the " delightful prospect" of a " sail round the Horn," in the very worst season of the year.

Chapter III. Leaving Beazil— Scenes On Boakd The Vessel — Storms, &c. &c. „

Thursday, May 24th, 1849. " Come men, hurry aboard." The flag is flying — the signal given — our old ship is ready to set sail. " Man the windlass" was ordered — up came the anchor — the sails were unfurled — and away we sailed — but hark ! from the antiquated Fort, was sounded — " Americana, ship ahoy V — Hello, responded our Captain — "What de pass word V — "Margarieto" was answered — " Very good, 'tis very good" — and away we sailed, glad enough to resume our voyage to California. We espied a brig ahead, which appeared to us, to he dancing a Virginia reel on the high sea ; and I suppose if any vessel had been in our wake, we would have presented the same appearance. The weather was damp, chilly and windy, but did not appear to affect the spirits of the passengers, some of whom were singing " A life on the ocean is

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wave " — and others " I'm bound for California" — the rest sought their bunks, while the Flavius kept steadily on her course. Finally all was still, save the occasional hoarse voice of the officer on deck — and the melancholy howl of the wind, as it swept through the rigging.

Thursday, May 31st. One week just elapsed since we bid adieu to Rio — having sailed eight hundred miles during that time. Passengers found amusement in catching, with hook and line, Cape pigeons and the Albatross. The pigeons were larger than our ordinary land pigeons. They are beautiful birds, looking more like ducks than pigeons, having on their breasts a soft, pure white down, which would make an Astor house pillow blush— they are web-footed, and cannot fly from deck, unless the wind strikes them, and then they stretch their wings and gracefully sail away.

One of the Albatross measured ten feet from one tip of the wing to the other, and from the back of his head to the end of his bill twelve inches. The prettiest cape pigeon was reserved and preparatory to being stuffed,. was suspended from the main top — but the wind blowing hard, soon carried the beautiful prize beyond the ruthless hand of the amateur artist.

Friday, June 22d. Three cheers," — our Captain tells us we are "around the Horn" — and we found he was right when he said " Some of you are making a great fuss about

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rounding the Horn, and I'll venture the assertion we will round the Cape without any one knowing it and so we did— and right merry we were at the announcement. During the severest blow, when the sea rolled mountains high — wave after wave dashing over our staunch vessel, when the raging waters looked black with rage, I stood alone in the "forward hatch," holding on to "a stancheon" — watching the fury of the storm, with mingled feelings of awe and pleasure. The " hatches" were fastened down — the sails were clewed up — we had sailed for some days under " bare poles." Our days, for about a fortnight began at 9 A. M. and ended about 2 P. M., and time hung heavy upon our hands. We found most comfort in our bunks, for we could scarcely venture on deck without receiving a fall or undergoing a salt water bath.

Sunday, June 24th. This day completed three months of our tedious voyage ; and this day we encountered one of the most terrific gales, we had thus far experienced. " Old Salts" declared they had never witnessed a more furious storm — we lost our "jib and foretop mast stay sail" — and felt ourselves fortunate in escaping so well. Our vessel rolled to and fro — and pitched "fore and aft" without respect to persons, trunks, dishes, et cetera — the wind whistled through the rigging, as though Neptune and his whole train of worshippers were engaged in serenading us.

Wednesday, July 4th. As we had anticipated much

:>0

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pleasure in celebrating the memorable Fourth on board the Flavius, but when we peeped out at early dawn, we saw our anticipations were not to be realized. The sea was rough, and the rain poured down fast and heavy. Every passenger felt keenly disappointed, for we had made arrangements to have " a good time" on the glorious natal day of American Independence. However, the American people, "know no such word as fail." The passengers assembled midships, in the saloon, which was in reality nothing but the steerage or between decks. The author read the Declaration of Independence, and owing to the sickness of the duly appointed orator, delivered a few reremarks, followed by about twenty others — and thus with speeches, songs and sentiment, we whiled away the day, doing our best to commemorate the glorious Fourth.

Thursday, July 12th. Magnificent sun rise. The ocean during the day was calm as a lake. The atmosphere warm and agreeable, and sky and clouds presenting a succession of rich and varied views.

Whales seen at a distance, spouting water high in the air, accompanied by a noise resembling the sound of a high pressure engine. We expected to make Valparaiso before many hours, and of course every passenger was excited with the hope of soon stepping ashore once more ; for hardly any circumstance can be so delightful to a sea voyager as the prospect of soon reaching port.

Chapter IV. Valparaiso And Its Inhabitants

About 1 o'clock P. M. the anchor was let go, and our dangerous and disagreeable voyage around the inhospitable coast of Patagonia was over. Each man gazed wistfully at the wild Chilian scenry, and viewed with delight the city of Valparaiso, built upon hills and surrounded by volcanic looking eminences, heartily wishing the lazy custom house officials would come on board and permit us to go ashore.

As the light of another day dawned, bringing with it the dews and cold of a Chilian morning, I anxiously peered over the side of the vessel, fearful the rain would descend and add to the gloom of my already sombre feelings. But about 9 o'clock the glorious, ever welcome sun came forth in all its splendor, dispelling the dew and dampness, and I ventured aboard a " dug out," and for two reals (25 cents) was rowed to the landing. Here I saw some of the natives lounging about the old rickety wharves, with their fancy colored blankets thrown around them, and wearing a sharp-pointed, Chinese-looking hat, which serves both as an umbrella and sun-shade.

Valparaiso is built something in the form of a horseshoe, and extends over considerable space. The general style of building is far more pleasiug than in Rio. I observed some very comfortable residences, but there are many mere " Adobes." The Custom House is in front of the landing — a one storied, dull looking building. On the right is the Merchant's Exchange and Reading Room, in which I found some old New York papers. Underneath is a large ship chandlery establishment, owned by an American. To the left is an old, almost dilapidated building, called the " Hole in the Wall," and I found it a hole indeed — in which crowds were drinking the various stimulating liquors, which make fools of all who too freely imbibe. The hotels are quite comfortable, and I found the landlord of the " Baltimore House," (where I dined,) a native of old Maryland. The " Star Hotel" opposite, is presided over by Monsieur Frenchman. Passing up Main street, I found the stores numerous — goods well arranged, but prices exorbitant. Perfumery, gaudily labelled, takes well.

Along the upper part of the street small wares were displayed on the sidewalk, and as I am about as conversant with the Spanish language as with the Chinese, the incessant gabbling of the crowd was of course unintelligible. But the manners and customs of the natives are so different from our own, that I had plenty of incidents to amuse and interest me.

Whoa! whoa! — ah, here comes a fine team, a clumsy,

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pig-pen looking wagon, perched on two clumsier wheels cut out of solid wood, drawn by two miserable looking oxen, which were treading along a little behind 2.40 time. And here dashed along two mules, on one of which sat a postillion, with a spur about a foot long, digging it into the sides of the mules, which were drawing a vehicle, closely resembling one of our old-fashioned, high-top gigs, in which were seated two pretty signoritas. The ladies go abroad at all times, wearing a gay colored shawl over their heads, and are polite and social in their manners. Again I was attracted by a familiar sound — the rolling and tumbling of nine-pins. I peeped into one of the numerous bowling alleys, and saw many of my own countrymen enjoying the exercise ; much more lively and agreeable they seemed than when a-board their respective vessels.

Extending my walk outside of the city, I observed a large number of donkeys and goats slowly wending their way down a tortuous path, through the irregular hills. The patient, but sleepy looking donkey, not much larger than a Newfoundland dog, was laden with fire-wood and country produce, and the long-bearded goat ready to supply the inhabitants with milk. To the Chilians these animals are invaluable. In the houses of the poor, the donkey, goat, dog, cat and chicken usurp the best places, and in all probability are allowed the best fare. Fruits are abundant, so also wild game. Liquor can be had at every

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store, but the natives prefer light wines, leaving brandy, whiskey and gin for the foreigners to swallow. A vast quantity of wheat is raised in Chili, and its flour, usually packed in bags of about 100 lbs., has a high reputation. Indeed, Chili offers many inducements to encourage the emigration of enterprising merchants and mechanics.

The government is republican— the religion Roman Catholic; but the inhabitants appear to care more for their temporal comforts than their spiritual interests. I fear the morals of Valparaiso are not of the highest order; yet a more social, hospitable and polite people I have never met. They are remarkably fond of music; the opera is well encouraged, but in nearly every house you hear the guitar, which seems to be the universal favorite ; and dancing is participated in by almost every one. Called by an acquaintance into a house, and requested to give the company a few notes on the flute, I played several of our national airs, which were respectfully listened to ; but when I struck up a polka, instantly the entire company were on their feet, dancing away as merry and happy as any set of mortals could be.

I visited the fort, located on an eminence, overlooking the harbor ; but as I was preparing to rest myself after my fatiguing tramp, one of the numerous soldiers ordered me to " vamose," which I did without waiting for a second command.

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As nearly all the vessels that sail around the Horn make this place their rendezvous, the shipping merchants and others do a thriving and flourishing business, and the city itself is sustained by the vast amount of shipping which at all seasons congregate here.

Our vessel being provisioned, the signal for hoisting the anchor announced, I bade adieu to Valparaiso, jumped aboard a row-boat, passed several United States and English men-of-war, sprang upon the deck of our good old ship, and joined the crowd in a real American huzza for Chili, as we were fast sailing away, and heading for San Francisco.

Chapter V. San Francisco In 1849

After six months' endurance of the good old ship Flavius — after an almost interminable life on the Atlantic and Pacific oceans— after a surfeit of watching the rising and setting sun, the circular horizon, the numerous fishes of the deep, and listening to the roar of the angry waters, the strike of the ship's bells, to the orders of the officers, the stories of passengers and sailors—at last, on the bright and beautiful morning of September 17th, 1849, we passed the " Golden Gate," entered the capacious and magnificent bay of San Francisco, and let go the heavy 2

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anchors, amid the vociferous cheers of one hundred delighted and grateful passengers.

Only those who have been long at sea, can appreciate the happy feelings of persons, who after a long and tedious voyage, are permitted to look out upon land, and can once more tread mother earth.

I succeeded in procuring a standing place in a row boat alongside our vessel, and was soon nearing that land whose rich mineral deposits were disturbing the entire world.

" Keep down there !" " Hold still ! Wait until I can fasten my boat." " Don't you see how fast the tide is running V "There — you can go." We jumped ashore, and I stood upon the soil of California.

So long pent up on board the ship, that when I began to walk, it seemed as though the earth was heaving to and fro, like some gigantic vessel. But this feeling soon passed off, and I pushed ahead, determined to see and hear all I possibly could in San Francisco.