Grammar of textile design

Preface

The Grammar of Textile Design is a treatise upon the Fundamental Principles of Structural Design in Woven Fabrics, and the application of those principles in the production of various types of cloth.

It has been chiefly prepared as a text-book for students of weaving and designing in all branches of the weaving trade, and contains much information of practical utility to designers, salesmen, manufacturers and others, to whom a knowledge of the construction, characteristic features and uses of textile fabrics will be helpful.

In the descriptions of fabrics that are produced by the aid of special mechanical devices, these are briefly described and illustrated by scale diagrams, and include descriptions of three types of steel-wire doup harnesses for cross-weaving ; a loom for weaving leno fabrics in which warp ends are crossed by a system of douping in front of the reed; and a loom for weaving ondule fabrics in which warp ends, and sometimes picks of weft, are caused to assume undulating or wavy lines in the direction of warp, or weft, respectively.

HARRY NISBET.

Bolton, October, 1906.

19354

General Principle of Fabric Structure (§§ 1-4) and the use of Design Paper (§5)----- pages 1-5

CHAPTER II. The Plain Weave and its Modifications

The Plain, Calico, or Tabby Weave (§ 6). Firmness of Texture (§ 7). Variety of Texture (§ 8). Variety of Form : Ribbed Fabrics (§§ 9-13). Corded Fabrics (§ 14). Matt Weaves (§§ 15, 16) - - pages 6-23

CHAPTER III. Twill and Kindred Weaves

Classification of Twill Weaves (§ 17). I. Continuous Twills (a) warp-face Twills (§ 18). (b) Weft-face Twills (§ 19). (c) Warp and Weft-face Twills (§ 20). The Angle of Twill (§ 21). Influences affecting the Prominence of Twills and Kindred Weaves (a) Character of Weave, (6) Character of Yarn, (c) Number of Threads per Inch, (d) Direction of Twill in Relation to the Direction of Twist in Yarn (§§ 22-26). 2. Zigzag or Wavy Twills (§§ 27 29). 3. Rearranged Twillsl: Satin Weaves (§§ 30-32). Table of Intervals of Selection for the Construction of Satin Weaves (§ 32). Corkscrew Twills (§§ 33, 34). Rearrangement of Twill Weaves on Satin and other Bases (§§ 35, 36). 4. Combined Twills (§37). 5. Broken Twills (§ 38). 6. Figured or Ornamented Twills (§39) pages 24-76 vi

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV. Diamond and Kindred Weaves

Diamond Weaves (§ 40). Honeycomb and Kindred Weaves (§ 41).

Brighton Weaves (§ 42). Sponge Weaves (§ 43). Huck-a-Back and

Kindred Weaves (§ 44). Grecian Weaves (§ 45). Linear Zigzag

Weaves (§ 46) pages 77-102

CHAPTER V. Bedford Cords

Plain Calico-ribbed Bedford Cords (§§ 47-49). Plain Twill-ribbed Bedford Cords (§§ 50, 51). Figured Bedford Cords (§§ 52, 53). Tabulated Data of Particulars relating to the Manufacture of Seventeen Varieties of Bedford Cord Fabrics described in this Chapter (§ 54)

CHAPTER VI. Backed Fabrics

Weft-backed Fabrics (§ 55). Warp-backed Fabrics (§ 56). Reversible or Double-faced Fabrics (§57) pages 119-125

CHAPTER VII. Fustians

Varieties of Fustians (§ 58). Imperials or Swansdowns (§ 59). Cantoons or Diagonals (§ 60). Moleskins (§ 61). Beaverteens (§ 62). Velveteens and Velveteen Cutting (§§ 63-71). Ribbed or Corded Velveteen (§ 72). Figured Velveteen (§§ 73, 74). Corduroy (§§ 75, 76). Figured Corduroy (§ 77). Corduroy Cutting Machines (§§ 78, 79) pages 126-161

CHAPTER VIII. Terry Pile Fabrics

Methods of producing Terry Pile on Textile Fabrics (§§ 80, 81). Terry-forming Devices (§ 82). Varieties of Terry Fabrics (§§ 83-87). Action of the Reed in Relation to Shedding (§ 84). Figured Terry Weaving (§ 87). Practical Details of Terry Weaving (§ 88) - pages 162-177

CONTENTS. vii CHAPTER IX.

Gauze and Lbno Fabrics.

Gauze, Net Leno, and Leno Brocade Varieties of Cross= Weaving

(§ 89). Plain Gauze, and a Heald Gauze or Leno Harness (§§ 90, 91). Net Leno Fabrics (§§ 92-94). Gauze and Net Leno Figuring by means of several Back Standard Healds to each Doup Heald (§§ 95-103). Leno Specialities produced by a System of Crossing Warp Ends in front of the Reed (§ 104). A Device for the Production of Special Leno Effects (§ 105). Full-cross Leno Fabrics (§ 106). Relative Merits of a Top and a Bottom-doup Harness (§ 107). Relative Merits of Different Types of Dobbies for Gauze and Leno Fabrics (§ 108). Shaking Devices for Leno Weaving (§§ 109-113), Practical Details of Leno Weaving (§§ 114-116). Tempered Steel = wire Doup Harnesses for Cross=weaving (§ 117). Mock or Imitation Leno Fabrics (§ 118) pages 178-236