Ten thousand miles of travel, sport and adventure

Front matter

TEN THOUSAND MILES

OF

TRAVEL, SPORT, AND ADVENTURE.

Preface

viii

then at war; and the possibility of falling in with a hostile tribe of Sioux or Ar&pahoes was a pro¬ spect which even a strong and well-armed party of hunters could not contemplate without consi¬ derable uneasiness; a state of affairs, however, which it may be hoped will no longer exist, the vigorous measures taken by Generals Sherman and Sheridan rendering it probable that peace will be concluded before the next hunting season begins. Happily, owing to the kindness of Generals Sher¬ man and Augur, in allowing us to accompany a party sent on the scout across the plains of Nebraska and Kansas, we were not only enabled to enjoy our novel sport with comparative security, but had an excellent opportunity of becoming acquainted with the life of the American soldier in the military outposts of the Far West. We were received at these distant stations, as every¬ where in America, with the greatest kindness and hospitality by the officers, who invariably pressed us to spend some time with them, promising to show us the best sport to be obtained in their neighbourhood.

CONTENTS,

Chapter I. Page

THE VOYAGE OUT—PLEASANT ANTIDOTE TO SEA-SICKNESS—ICE¬ BERGS—ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK—A CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIAL —NEW YORK HOTELS—AN AMERICAN DINNER—WAITERS AND SERVANTS—IMPRESSIONS OF NEW YORK—CHURCHES— DESIRABLE REGULATIONS—PRICE OF GOLD—STATEN ISLAND 1

Chapter II

START FOR RHODE ISLAND—SALOON STEAMERS—NEWPORT— OCEAN HOUSE HOTEL—SOCIETY AT AN AMERICAN WATERING PLACE—PATRIARCHAL HOURS—A PRIVATE “ HELL ”—NEW YORK YACHT SQUADRON—BOSTON—APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN—JOURNEY TO SARATOGA BY RAIL—THE VERANDAHS—

AN AMERICAN HABIT—BALL IN CONGRESS HALL—AMERICAN LADIES—A PLANK ROAD—LAKE GEORGE . . . .17

Chapter VI

START FOR THE FAR WEST—PULLMAN’S PALACE SLEEPING CARS —THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS — CHICAGO — RAISING AND MOVING HOUSES — INDIAN CONFERENCE — GENERALS SHER¬ MAN AND AUGUR—POLITICAL PROCESSIONS—START FOR OMAHA — THE PRAIRIES—THE MISSOURI RIVER — WILD FOWL SHOOTING AT ST. JOHN’S, IOWA — TALES OF WESTERN LIFE— RETURN TO OMAHA — ARMS AND NECESSARIES FOR HUNTING . 78

Chapter VII

START FOR THE PLAINS — THE PLATTE RIVER — MODE OF CAMPING —ACCOUTREMENTS OF THE SOLDIERS — THE GREAT INDIAN HUNTING GROUNDS — MY FIRST BUFFALO — ANTELOPE—THE REPUBLICAN RIVER—LARGE HERDS OF BUFFALO—BEAVER

CONTENTS.

XI

PAGE

CREEK—DREARY COUNTRY—TRAIL OF HOSTILE INDIANS— TALES ROUND THE CAMP FIRE—MASSACRE OF UNITED STATES TROOPS—TORTURES INFLICTED BY THE INDIANS—FIGHT BETWEEN PAWNEES AND SIOUX—REMINISCENCES OF THE LATE WAR.94

Chapter VIII

THE INDIAN TRAIL—DOG CREEK—GAMBLING—MEASUREMENT OF TIME—INDIAN PONIES—THE RED MAN’S ARMS—DESERTED WIGWAM8—PRAIRIE DOG VILLAGES—COYOTES, OR PRAIRIE WOLVES—FALSE ALARM—RATTLESNAKES—TURKEY CREEK— INDIAN SONGS AND DANCES—THE INDIAN PIPE—THE RED MAN’S HEAVEN—INVITATION TO VISIT A PAWNEE VILLAGE— INDIAN MORALITY—RESPECT FOR OLD AGE . . . .112

Chapter IX

ENCOUNTER WITH A BUFFALO — PAWNEE BOB—VINDICTIVE CRUELTY OF INDIAN SQUAWS—A MEDICINE ROBE—MEDICINE FORK—TAME MAGPIES—CANONS—BLACK-TAILED DEER— FORT MACPHERSON—CONSTRUCTION OF THE FORTS—LIFE OF SOLDIERS IN OUTPOSTS—THE CHEVINGTON MASSACRE—IRISH SOLDIERS—ANTI-BRITISH SONGS—FENIAN ANTHEM

Chapter X

PASSING OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—FORT SAUNDERS—LARA¬ MIE CITY—VIGILANCE COMMITTEE—PUNISHMENT OF A BULLY —START ON OUR HUNT THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—

THE SAGE BUSH—INTENSE COLD—DIFFICULTIES OF OUR ROUTE THROUGH THE FOREST—THE NORTH PARK—EN¬ COUNTER WITH INDIANS—OUT IN SEARCH OF GAME . . 146

CONTENTS.

xii

Chapter XI. Page

THE PLATTE RIVER—SOLITARY HUNTER—LONG CREEK—TENA¬ CITY OP LIFE IN ANTELOPES—GORGE OP THE PLATTE— ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP—THE GRIZZLY AND THE CINNA¬ MON BEAR—THE PASS CREEK—LARGE HERD OP ELK— DANGEROUS JOURNEY IN THE DARK—CROSSING PASS CREEK —HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS— THEIR COSTUME AND EQUIPMENT — BRIDGER THE OLD HUNTER AND SCOUT.160

Chapter XII

FORT STEEL—RESULT OP OUR SPORTING EXPEDITION—HUTS OP THE SOLDIERS—“ CITY” OP BENTON—WESTERN RUFFIANS—

THE RAILWAY IN THE FAR WEST—DISCOVERY OP COAL— BRYANT—WELLS, FARGO, AND CO.’S STAGE COACHES—DIS¬ AGREEABLE TRAVELLING—THE MAIL-BAGS IN THE FAR WEST—DISASTER TO OUR VEHICLE—FORT BRIDGER—CURIOUS DISCUSSION—A MUD WAGGON—ANOTHER COACH DISASTER —BEAR RIVER STATION—ECHO CANON—OGDEN CITY . . 177

Chapter XIII

SALT LAKE CITY—VIEW FROM CAMP DOUGLAS—THE GREAT SALT LAKE AND THE DEAD SEA—DIVISIONS AND GOVERNMENT OF THE CITY—INTERVIEW WITH BRIGHAM YOUNG—THE SULPHUR SPRINGS—THE THEATRE—MORMON WOMEN—SEPA¬ RATE HAREMS—FAVOURITE OCCUPATION—STRANGERS AT SALT LAKE—THE TABERNACLE—THE PRISON—NATIVE WINE —UTAH—ELDER JOHN TAYLOR’S ACCOUNT OF HIS CONVER-

Chapter XIV

START FOR SAN FRANCISCO—THE SHORES OF SALT LAKE— STOCKTON—A FAIR MORMON—STOCKTON LAKE—THE GREAT

CONTENTS.

Xlll

PAGE

AMERICAN DESERT—CHARACTER OP THE COUNTRY, INHABIT¬ ANTS AND CLIMATE—DEEP CREEK—METEORIC SHOWER— RUBY VALLEY—DIAMOND MOUNTAIN—WHITE PINE—AUSTIN —A RUSH TO THE SILVER MINES OP NEVADA—CURIOUS ATMOSPHERICAL ILLUSION—TERMINUS OP CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD—ROUGHS IN THE CARS—SUNRISE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS.209

Chapter XV

ARRIVAL AT SACRAMENTO—RIVER SCENERY—SAN FRANCISCO— THE OVERLAND ROUTE—CALIFORNIA—CLIMATE AND TEMPE¬ RATURE-PRODUCTIONS—FRUIT—WINES—THE EARTHQUAKE OF OCTOBER 21ST—THE NEW DOCKS—MONOPOLY—WOOLLEN MILLS—CHINESE—THE CLIFF HOUSE—SEA-LIONS—THEATRE

Chapter XVI

LEAVE SAN FRANCISCO—THE AMERICAN PACIFIC STEAM-SHIP COMPANY—OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS—THE TROPICS—THE CORDILLERAS — FLYING FISH — WHALES — SEA-BIRDS — ACAPULCO—A MEXICAN TOWN—MEXICANS—COCK-FIGHTING —A JOINT-STOCK COMPANY—GALE IN THE GULF OF TEHUAN¬ TEPEC—VOLCANOES—THE SOUTHERN CROSS—REACH PANAMA —GREAT HEAT—THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN—MAGNIFICENT VEGETATION —DEADLY CLIMATE—NARROW ESCAPE

Chapter XVII

ASPINWALL—PART FROM OUR AMERICAN FRIENDS—HEAT AND MOSQUITOES—SUNDAY AT COLON—START FOR JAMAICA—THE RIVAL PILOT8—PORT ROYAL—BAY OF KINGSTON—CUBAN REFUGEES—KINGSTON—BARRACKS OF THE NATIVE TROOPS —COALING—A BODY-GUARD OF AMAZONS—FIREFLIES—NEW-

XIV

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CASTLE—MORANT BAT—ST. DOMINGO—GUANO ISLAND—ST. THOMAS—TRACES OF THE EARTHQUAKE—APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN AND INHABITANTS.255

Chapter XVIII

START FOR ENGLAND—WRECK OF THE RHONE—TORTOLA—GLO¬ RIOUS SUNSET IN A CALM—A HEAVY GALE IN MID-ATLANTIC — SUNDAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS — DROWNED OUT — LOSE SAILS, BULWARKS AND LIFE-BOAT—CHRISTMAS EVENING—A VESSEL VAINLY ENDEAVOURS TO SIGNAL—REACH PLYMOUTH SOUND — FEARFUL WEATHER IN THE CHANNEL — REACH

TEN THOUSAND MILES

OP

TRAVEL, SPORT, AND ADVENTURE.

Chapter I

THE VOYAGE OUT—PLEASANT ANTIDOTE TO SEA-SICKNESS—ICEBERGS —ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK—A CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIAL—NEW YORK HOTELS—AN AMERICAN DINNER—WAITERS AND SERVANTS —IMPRESSIONS OF NEW YORK—CHURCHES—DESIRABLE REGULA¬ TIONS—PRICE OF GOLD—STATEN ISLAND.

Having obtained leave of absence from the autho-. rities at the Horse-Guards, to visit our American cousins, my brother officer, C. P. Kendall, and I left Liverpool in the Cunard screw steam-ship Russia, on Saturday afternoon, the 1st of August, 1868.

A fine sail of eighteen hours down the channel brought us to Queenstown, where we landed for a few hours while waiting for the mails. Leaving that port about 4 p.m. on Sunday afternoon, we

THE VOYAGE OUT.

liad no sooner got well out to sea than a cold drizzle, with a north-west wind came on, which continued to blow steadily against us during the whole voyage across the Atlantic. We unfortu¬ nately neglected to secure seats at table in the saloon, and had, therefore, to put up with seats right aft, where the motion of the ship and the shaking of the screw were very unpleasantly perceptible. However, for the first five days after leaving land, we managed to find room at the captain’s table, owing to the fresh breeze somewhat interfering with the appetites of the rightful owners of the places.

A case of champagne, which we brought from London, we found of great assistance in preventing sea-sickness; and all those who prefer dry to very sweet champagne, will do well to bring their own wine with them.

We had about a hundred and thirty fellow-pas¬ sengers, among whom we soon made acquaintance with some very nice people—English and Ame¬ ricans—in whose pleasant company we so well beguiled the tediousness of the voyage, that we looked forward to our arrival at New York, and

ARRIVAL OFF SANDY HOOK.

consequent separation, rather as a misfortune than a pleasure.

On the fifth day we sighted an iceberg, and soon got among a whole lot of them. Some of them had the appearance of huge floating islands of ice about four hundred feet high, while others only just showed above the water. The weather came on very foggy in the evening, and we passed rather an uncomfortable night, our rest being much dis¬ turbed by the dismal sound of the fog-whistle, which bellowed out incessantly above our heads, rendering it impossible to enjoy a moment’s sleep. Next day we got clear of the ice, and although occasionally a dense fog would come on for a short time, we had calm and warm weather for the rest of the voyage.

On Tuesday morning, August 11th, we were roused out of our cabins at daylight by the news of our arrival off Sandy Hook, and on going on deck we found the pilot on board and our ship slowly steaming up the magnificent bay of New York. Ten a.m. saw us safely moored alongside the Cunard Company’s wharf at Jersey City; where, after taking an affectionate leave of our friends on

CLARENDON HOTEL.

board, we had to submit to the loss of time, besides the trouble and annoyance, inseparable from the examination of luggage in a Custom-house.

My rifle appeared especially to excite the sus¬ picions of the “ colonel ” who was told off to ex¬ amine my baggage. He made me put it together, and then having examined it carefully, he asked me how much I had given for it. On my replying “eighty pounds”—four hundred dollars gold—he coolly remarked, “ Guess you’d get as good a one in N’York for eighty dollars,” and then allowed me to put it up again in its case.

At the Custom-house we committed our luggage to the care of the express agent, and then proceeded to engage a hack carriage, which, as legal fares either don’t exist, or are totally disregarded, is an affair of a good deal of trouble and argument. However, we at last agreed to pay the heavy sum of eight dollars—twenty-four shillings English—and then drove on board the steam ferry-boat, which conveyed our carriage and several others over to New York, where we put up at the Clarendon Hotel.

The Clarendon Hotel is conducted on the principle

AMERICAN DINNER.

generally adopted throughout America, and the charges are much the same as in other hotels of a similar character in the States. The payment of five dollars a day includes everything,—board, lodging, and attendance, but not wine. Breakfast hours are from seven to ten, and lunch, from two to three. Dinner is served at five, tea at seven, and supper at ten; so that a man gifted with a vigorous appetite can spend most of the day indulging in the pleasures of the table. The bills of fare, too, are long and varied, and no extra charge is made for ordering any number of different dishes.

An American dinner, however, to a Britisher, is anything but a comfortable meal, as, although soup and fish are handed round, all the rest of the dinner is put down at once on the table. In a surprisingly short time, everybody's plate is piled up with two or three sorts of meat, vegetables, and sweets all together, and by the time the unaccustomed stranger has made up his mind what he will eat, dinner is ever, and the waiters are commencing to clear the table. Iced water is almost the only drink con¬ sumed at dinner, as the high duty imposed on wine

WAITERS AND SERVANTS.

renders it beyond the means of the ordinary fre¬ quenters of hotels. The usual custom in America, seems to be rather to drink spirits, in the shape of cocktails of various sorts, at the bar, both before and after dinner.

It was chiefly in the matter of waiters and ser¬ vants that the great Republican principle of equality struck me as rather a questionable blessing. The white servants, almost invariably Irish, seem to consider that they are conferring a favour, rather than performing a duty, when they obey an order or answer a bell. The blacks are even worse than the whites, for they are sulky, lazy, and dirty. I think the Americans themselves are a good deal to blame for the inattention and bad attendance of the servants at the hotels; as I afterwards found it to be the custom to present the head waiter with a bribe of from eight to ten dollars, in order to secure attention and comfort while staying at one of these establishments. In fact, the system of “ tipping,” whether to servants, railway guards, or porters, is quite as universally carried otit in America as it is in this country; and to secure

APPEARANCE OF THE CITY.

their attention much larger sums are frequently offered to them.

It was probably owing to having heard Americans talk so much of the marble palaces, the great wealth, and the immense trade of New York, that I was disappointed at first sight in the appearance of the city. The streets are narrow, and most of them execrably paved. In many the grass was springing up on the footway and the road. I observed little of the bustle or traffic that may be seen all the year round in London or Paris, although that may have been partially owing to the extreme heat of the weather, which had rather relaxed the Yankee ardour in business. It is said there have been more than a hundred deaths daily during the last few weeks from sunstroke.

Broadway with its huge marble stores, and Fifth Avenue with its cool shading trees, are undoubtedly very fine streets, while the Central Park can com¬ pare favourably with Hyde Park, or even with the Bois de Boulogne; yet still great alterations must be made, and many years must elapse before New York will bear comparison with the great cities of

PLACES OF WORSHIP.

Europe—such as London, Paris, St. Petersburg, or Vienna.

Among the numerous places of worship in Fifth Avenue, one of the handsomest is the new Jewish Synagogue at present in course of construction. It will hold an immense number of people, and the Yankees say it will be “the finest building the Jews have had since Solomon’s Temple was de¬ stroyed.” A little higher up an immense Roman Catholic Cathedral is being built of white marble, for the benefit of those who profess the “ old faith.” In fact churches of every imaginable creed are to be found in the Avenue,—so that Episcopalian, Quaker, Romanist, Shaker, Unitarian, Baptist, or the professor of any other of the multitudinous creeds of the New World, cannot find the smallest difficulty in suiting his taste as to where and how he will worship God.

The Episcopal or American form of the Church of England is the fashionable religion in New York; and it is customary for the young ladies in society to ask their male friends to meet them at some particular church, and, after service, to

CHURCH-GOING.

walk up and down Fifth. Avenue together, cha¬ perons being looked on as quite superfluous. Church-going on Sundays did not appear to me to be regarded at all in the light of a sacred duty, as we are taught to think it in England; and, as far as I could judge, ladies did not make it a rule, and gentlemen certainly made it an exception, to attend any sort of religious service at all. The Yankee who excused himself from attending the Protestant church, by saying that he had lately conformed to the Roman Catholic religion, and found that confessing and obtaining absolution right away was a darned sight better than sitting for hours in church every Sunday, had apparently more religious scruples than most of those I met. Whatever the advantages of a separation of church and state may be, the effect in the States and in Canada is not such as to afford matter of congratu¬ lation to any man with a particle of religious feeling in his heart.

The first service according to the American form of the Church of England which we attended was during my visit to Staten Island, afterwards re-

SERMONS.

ferred to, and in some respects the slight difference between the English and American prayer-books, is, I think, in favour of the latter. A more modem form of English is used, and the frequent repeti¬ tion of the Lord’s prayer avoided. Some words and sentences which sound indelicate to American ears are altered. The words “Give peace in our time,” &c., are left out, though I don’t know why, as they have certainly every reason to pray that they may be spared the horrors of war, after the example brought home to them in the late civil con¬ test. After the ten commandments, are added the two “ on which hang all the law and the prophets,” as given in the 22nd chapter of St. Matthew.

The sermons I generally heard did not strike me as being more brilliant or attractive than the usual run of discourses one hears in England, while at one church I heard the parson, before telling his congregation of what sins they ought to repent, apologise to them in case he should say anything disagreeable, in a way that showed that the poor man knew he was dependent on the approval of his flock for his daily bread, and that he feared, if he

MUNICIPAL REGULATIONS.

denounced their sins too strongly, he might be turned off and another parson engaged who would look more leniently on them.

The stranger from Europe cannot but remark how many changes are desirable in the municipal regulations of the Empire City. It would be a great advantage, for example, if cabs could be obtained at reasonable fares; and it would add much to the comfort and convenience of the public, if omnibuses were placed under the supervision of smart and intelligent conductors. Overcrowding in the street cars ought to be rigorously forbidden, and the footpaths should be cleared of the cartloads of merchandise of every description which continu¬ ally block them up. Such alterations appear to be most urgently needed in New York.

One thing that struck me much in New York was the way in which the drivers of the various descriptions of vehicles refrained from using bad language or swearing at one another in the manner so common in London. In New York they drive very slowly and badly, and collisions are frequent, but instead of the English driver’s usual growl.

THE SOCIAL EVIL.

“ Where the h— are you coming to ? ” when run into, a Yankee will merely chaff the offender, or more likely take no notice of the matter. I saw a gentleman on horseback turning into Fourth Avenue, just by the Clarendon Hotel, at the moment that an omnibus was passing. The driver of the omnibus made no attempt to pull up, and the pole struck the gentleman’s horse in the flank, knocking over both horse and rider. The omnibus driver merely laughed, and calling out “ Bully for you,” drove away. The gentleman got up, and though a good deal hurt, made no attempt to find out the driver’s name, nor did he indulge in any abuse of the man for driving over him.

I have seen it stated that New York is the most immoral place in the world, but my own experience of that city by lamplight, and the accounts I re¬ ceived from the habitues of the town, make me think that it is neither much worse nor much better than London. The great social evil is not so glaringly prominent as it is in our metropolis, nor do the ladies of the demi-monde attain that mag¬ nificent position awarded to them in Paris, yet still

THE PRICE OF GOLD.

the evil exists to quite as great an extent, in pro¬ portion to the number of inhabitants.

New York has one advantage over London, and that is, that ladies may freely walk about the streets secure from insult or remark, and it is not contrary to the rules of society for a young lady to walk or drive about with a gentleman who may be nothing more than an acquaintance. I suppose that American young ladies are well able to take care of themselves, as I never heard of any evil conse¬ quences following on this unrestricted friendship. Being the custom, it has come to be looked on as a matter of course, and not as any peculiar mark of favour.

The great fluctuations in the price of gold, the day we landed in America, standing first at 50 premium, and then steadily declining to 35, caused an extraordinary amount of speculation in the precious metal. Everybody, old and young, rich and poor, each according to his means, was either buying, in hope of a rise, or selling, in anti¬ cipation of a fall. The very first question asked of the pilot who boarded us off Sandy Hook was,

VISIT TO STATEN ISLAND.

“ Wliat is the price of gold ? ” and at the merchants’ offices, the restaurants, the hotels, the ever-varying price of gold was posted up in a conspicuous position. The approaching elections were the great cause of the fluctuations in its value, it being gene¬ rally understood that the Democratic platform was repudiation of the national debt, or at least pay¬ ment of the interest in paper currency, while that of the Republican party was, on the contrary, honour¬ able payment in gold of the interest on the debt. These great changes in the value of the precious metal are naturally an immense inconvenience to the bankers and merchants, and the conduct of the “ bears ” at the gold room, where the business of buying and selling gold was carried on, was de¬ nounced in the leading papers as a nuisance which would not for a day have been tolerated in England.

Having received a pressing invitation from our friend, Mr. R W. Cameron, to visit him at his country place on Staten Island, we lost no time in exchanging the heat of the town for the cool air of the country, and the discomforts of an hotel for the

MOSQUITOES.

comfort and kindness. we experienced under his hospitable roof.

Staten Island is situated south-west of New York, and is distant three quarters of an hour in the steam ferry which plies across the bay every hour. It is a favourite summer resort of the merchants, whose villas cover the island, while from every hill lovely views are obtained over the bay, either towards the open sea, or across to the towns of New York, Jersey City, and Brooklyn.

The island has, however, one serious drawback in the shape of mosquitoes, which literally swarm in millions, and cover the hands, face, and legs when walking about the fields. In fact, they have at times been regarded as such a plague that the inha¬ bitants have been forced to seek refuge from them by abandoning the island while their numbers con¬ tinued to be so prolific.

It is a matter of the greatest difficulty, in fact, I may say it is next to impossible, to obtain any trustworthy information at New York or in the Eastern States generally, as to the prospect of sport in the Far West, or as to the means by

SPORT.

which it may be procured. We were often told that we should enjoy ourselves much more, and see far more of American life and customs, by spending the winter season at New York; and as to buffalo hunting, we were generally assured that, if we went into a farmyard and shot so many bulls and cows, we might have about as much excitement and danger, with far less trouble, as if we were galloping after buffalo on the plains. On further inquiry, however, we always found that our informants had never themselves tried which was the best sport. In fact, a love of sport, with willingness to undergo the hardships which are inseparable from a wild life, is a feeling which they could not understand. Then the Indians, we were told, were certain to scalp us if we ventured into their country. We were given to understand by some that we should probably get no hunting at all, and if we did “ the game would not be worth the candle.” Finding, however, that we were bent on going, every pos¬ sible kindness was shown us in the way of giving us letters of introduction to every town and post between New York and San Francisco.

Chapter II

START FOR RHODE ISLAND—SALOON STEAMERS—NEWPORT—OCEAN HOUSE HOTEL—SOCIETY AT AN AMERICAN WATERING PLACE— PATRIARCHAL HOURS—A PRIVATE “ HELL ”—NEW YORK YACHT SQUADRON—BOSTON—APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN—JOURNEY TO SARATOGA BY RAIL—THE VERANDAHS—AN AMERICAN HABIT— BALL IN CONGRESS HALL—AMERICAN LADIES—A PLANK ROAD —LAKE GEORGE.

On Monday, 17th August, we left New York at 5 p.m. for Newport in the State of Rhode Island. On going to the office to take our tickets, we were surprised to find that the fare was only one dollar, while the distance is two hundred miles. The smallness of the charge was owing to competition, a rival line having recently commenced running steamers to Newport. These saloon steamers are magnificently fitted up, and are provided with every luxury in the way of splendid saloons, state rooms, and dining saloons. Luxurious baths are prepared for the accommodation of passengers; at a commo-

SALOON STEAMERS.

dious bar they may procure any of the numerous spirituous mixtures in which Americans indulge; a barber s shop is always open for the reception of such as require the services of that functionary; and books and newspapers are liberally provided for the use of those who find pleasure in reading. In fact, the highest point of luxury attainable in travelling seems to have been reached by the American river steam-boats. They travel too at a pace very little surpassed by the railways, twenty miles an hour being the usual speed between New York and Newport.

After an excellent dinner, where we made our first acquaintance with that great delicacy, soft shell crabs, we proceeded to smoke our cigars on deck and enjoy the pretty scenery of the East River and Long Island Sound. On returning to the saloon, a curious scene presented itself to us. The floor was covered with sleeping men of every class, many of them drunk, and all of them—at least such as were awake—squirting their beastly tobacco juice over the rich carpet and decorations of the saloon. A great proportion of the state rooms

NEWPORT.

were occupied by gaily dressed ladies, who ap¬ peared to have no objection to admit to these sanctuaries any gentlemen of their acquaintance who might desire to enjoy a few minutes’ conversation with them before retiring for the night.

At about 3 a.m. we were awoke by the tremen¬ dous noise made by blowing off steam, and presently cries of “All aboard the cars for Boston!” made us aware that we were arrived in Newport harbour. We were allowed, however, to remain in our berths until 8 a.m., when we went on shore and proceeded to the Ocean House Hotel, one of the gigantic wooden structures common in this country.

Newport, the most fashionable watering place in America, is one of the most charming places ima¬ ginable. The climate has fewer extremes of heat and cold than any other part of eastern America; the scenery is extremely pretty, and the society delightful.

Society at Newport lives in pretty wooden villas, built rather in the Swiss chalet style, standing in some few acres of well-timbered grounds, and

LIFE AT NEWPORT.

extending far along the terraces which overlook the sea.

The hours observed are decidedly patriarchal, dinner being usually between 3 and 5 p.m., so that, when asked out to dinner at 4 p.m., it is extremely hard to know what sort of dress to put on, evening clothes looking absurd at that time of day. The Americans make a compromise by wear¬ ing an evening dress coat and coloured “pants.”

Having brought several letters of introduction from New York, our week at Newport was spent in a constant round of breakfasts, succeeded by croquet or musical parties, dinners followed by drives round the island, and suppers topped up with dances, or what is called a “ German,” that is, a continual cotillon, no other dance being danced during the evening.

The favourite manner of winding up the evening’s amusement at Newport was to adjourn about mid¬ night to a pretty little villa close to our hotel, where fashionable young Americans were wont to indulge in the expensive amusements of playing faro and roulette. The “gentleman” who keeps

GAMBLING.

this private hell was formerly a large and successful owner of race-horses in America; but, becoming disgusted with the turf, on account of having been black-balled by the Jockey Club, he now devotes himself entirely to the profitable business of a hellkeeper at Newport, Saratoga, and elsewhere. An excellent champagne supper was nightly provided “gratis” for all comers, and everything was con¬ ducted in the most quiet and orderly manner. Faro was the game at which most money changed hands, though the amount which was staked on the cards was almost nothing in com¬ parison with the enormous sums won and lost at similar establishments in our own country during the race meetings at Newmarket, Windsor, and Brighton.

Though gambling is equally contrary to law in both countries, the hell-keepers appear as free from police interference in the one as in the other.

That the law of primogeniture does not prevail in America is perhaps a fortunate circumstance. I was assured by the Americans themselves that the very worst thing that can happen to a young

WEALTHY YOUNG MEN.

man is the inheritance of a large property, because he then almost invariably goes to the bad. Why such should be the case, I do not know, but I certainly came across several instances which proved the truth of the statement. One reason may, per¬ haps, be that there are no country pursuits to occupy the time of the fortunate heir,—no fox hunting, no cricket. Shooting is an occupation for which the eastern American appears to have little taste, and the position of a magistrate and country gentleman is unknown in the northern States. A wealthy young man, therefore, who is in no business, is obliged to idle away his time in the cities and watering places; and, according to the old proverb, Satan then finds occupation for idle hands, the favourite one being, as far as my experience taught me, the conveyance of cocktails of every sort to his lips much more frequently than is good for him. Gambling is resorted to, to beguile the tediousness of the evenings; and a third and surer means of wasting money and health is easily procured in all the large towns.