Glacier national park; its trails and treasures

Foreword

Our design in the following pages is to direct the attention and interest of nature-lovers to one of the newer play-grounds of our country, the Glacier National Park, in the Rocky Mountains of Montana. Nature has been almost reckless in equipping this spot with the most characteristic features of beauty and wonder.

Our country is rich in natural scenery and offers an inexhaustible supply of scenic features which are true fountain-heads from which renewed spirits, health and inspiration may be drawn. The nation owes it to the people to set apart and make accessible portions of the magnificent regions of the Rocky Mountains as great parks, for their education, pleasure, and profit. It signifies a high degree of patriotism when Congress creates these national parks and conserves their possessions. The human mind and heart long for visions of the sublime and an opportunity for intimacy with the great features of the natural world.

vii viii FOREWORD

For centuries Nature has been fashioning a great region which, in recognition of its most active formative agent, has been honoured with the name of Glacier National Park.

He who traverses this mountain-land park enriches his memory with a wealth of beautiful pictures. This is a dream world, a land of enchantment. It is Nature's great art gallery and sculpture hall.

John Muir said of it, "Give a month at least to this precious reserve. The time will not be taken from your life. Instead of shortening, it will indefinitely lengthen it and make you truly immortal." M. E. H.

K. I. B.

Chapter I Paoe

NATURE'S GREAT PLAY-GROUND . . . . .19

A little paradise — Creation of the play-ground — Location and boundaries — Ranges and Continental Divide — Natural little park on Flattop Mountain — Approach to the Park — What the transcontinental traveller does not see — Entrance stations — Trips into the interior — Scenic attractions — The charm of the lakes — Music in * the Park — "Thrillers" — Natural Zoo — The mountains — A great outdoor institute of art.

Chapter II

Interesting features of the Park — Arrival at Glacier Park Hotel — The setting of the hotel — The architecture of Glacier Park Hotel — Side trips — Two Medicine Camp and side trips — Cut Bank Camp and side trips — St. Mary's Camp — Red Eagle and other side trips — Launch ride on St. Mary's Lake — Going-to-the-Sun Camp and side trips — Gunsight Camp and side trips — Sperry Camp — Granite Park Camp — Many Glacier Camp — Many Glacier Hotel and side trips — Tepee Camps.

Chapter III On The Mount Henry Trail . . . . .51

The group of peaks near Glacier Park Hotel — Eagerness to start into the interior — Rendezvous in the "forest lobby" — A grey day — Evening around the camp-fire — Guides of the Park — Donald Monroe — The rain conx CONTENTS

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tinues — Dressed for the Park — Off, and hitting the trail up Mt. Henry — Caught in the rain — Snow-storm on top of Mt. Henry — Snow-drift interferes — "Babes in the Woods" — The descent of the "switch-back" — Zones of Alpine vegetation — Arrival at Two Medicine Chalets.

Chapter IV

Easy approach into the interior — The Automobile Highway — Panoramic views — Inspirations — A region of beauties — Sunset on Lake McDermott — Belton to Lake McDonald — Lovers of high places — How trails are made —"Switch-backs"— "Skyland" trails— Swift Current Valley— Preparing to cross Swift Current Pass — On the way —The hard climb — The Garden Wall— Faithful greys- View from the Pass — To the west of the Pass — Iceberg Lake Trail — Rocky Mountain goat and Big Horn sheep — Out to Cracker Lake — Gunsight Pass — Walking the trail — A sight of Lake Louise — Breathless climbing — A pass of snow — East and went — Down Mt. Jackson— Triple Divide— Spell of a trail.

Chapter V

"The old trail that close to the mountain passes" — Advantage in crossing the foothills — Scouts sent in advance — The travois contrivance — Winding over the buffalo-grass hills — The Hudson Bay Company using the travois trail lock gun — Buffaloes as easy game — Dangers of the trail — Faded lines tell a story — An old war lodge — A pile of stone — Under the mould — Mountains seen from the trail — Tracing the trail — As a "get-away" — Major Logan — Lewis and Clark — The Automobile Highway.

CHAPTER VI PlEGAN PASS THE FLOWER PASS .... 100

Of Piegan Pass — Gunsight Lake — Early morning in the mountains — Matin chorus of the birds — On the trail

CONTENTS xi

PAGE

to St. Mary's meadows — The forest of Going-to-the-Sun Mt. — Charles and the Marathon Runner — Our Piegan Uplands — A thriller — The Pass filled with snow — The Field of the Cloth of Gold— Morning Eagle Falls— Nearing Many Glacier Camp — Moonlight on Lake McDennott.

Chapter VII The Flower Fields Of Glacier National Park . 112

Glacier National Park an enchanted land — Regarding flower-lovers and plant specialists — Alpine flora — Shortened season of Alpine vegetation — Rich and representative mountain flora of the Park — Regions in the Park most notable for Alpine flora — Flowers native to the Park — Classification of flowers of the Park as to colour — Grouping of flowers in certain neighbourhoods — Brief descriptions of most common flowers of the Park: false forget-me-nots, western anemone, queen's cup, northern twin-flower, saxifrage, mountain phacelia, gentians, harebell, arnica, beard tongue, larkspur, gaillardia, wild heliotrope, butterwort, fleabane, columbine, androsace, heath, heather, vetches, spirea, globeflower, snow lily, rhododendron, lady's slipper, Indian paint brush, painted cup.

Chapter VIII

Shining jewels of nature — Basins — Reflections — Shape, size and colour — Ideal settings — Effect on the tourist — Compared with European lakes — Charm of Two Medicine Lake — Upper St. Mary's Lake — A storm on St. Mary's — An avenue of water between stately mountains— A lake centre in Many Glacier region — Approaching Lake McDermott — Beauty of the lake — Sunset from the chalet — Iceberg Lake with its floating ice — A wonderful picture — Two jewels viewed from Gunsight Pass — Avalanche Lake, the pearl — The far-famed Lake Mc- Donald— Inverted pictures.

xii CONTENTS

Chapter IX Page

The Great Ice Age — Glaciers of Glacier National Park — Cirques — Geological survey of glaciers of the Park — Principal glaciers of the Park — Accessibility of Blackfeet Glacier — Leaving Gunsight Chalets for Blackfeet Glacier — Description of the glacier — Crossing the western lobe — A sudden fright — Crevasses and compositions of ice — Glacial brooks.

Chapter X

Interesting place to study types — A welcome from the Stars and Stripes — The habitual hotel dweller — "Honey-Mooners" — "Clinging-vine" variety — Lost to the world — Nature lovers — The Tenderfoot — "Omega Tau" company — Various specimens — True appreciation in the tourist.

Chapter XI A Day With The Blackfeet . . . . .174

Region teeming with legends — The name Blackfeet — Roving buffalo hunters — Character of the Blackfeet — Primitive customs — Religion — A visit to Browning — Police headquarters — Chiefs — Indian toggery — Yellow Owl makes medicine — The "Sun Woman" — Re-enacting past deeds — Bear Chief — The Grass Dance — The Scalp Dance — Thoughts in the twilight — Opening the sacred Medicine Bundle — Reaching out toward God.

Chapter XII Some Blackfeet Legends And Indian Names . . 191

The oral literature of the Blackfeet — Compared with legends of distant tribes — Translations of Mr. George Bird Grinnell and Mr. J. W. Schultz— The legends of

CONTENTS xiii

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St. Mary's region — Legend of Going-to-the-Sun Mt. — Legend of Chief Mt. — Legend of Two Medicine region — Legend of Rising Wolf Mt. — Indian name.

Chapter XIII Blackfeet Historical Pictographs . . . 208

The mural canvases in the Many Glacier Hotel — By whom made — How translated — Interpretation of pictograph made by South Piegan Indian chiefs — Interpretation of paintings made by Blackfeet Indian chiefs.

ILLUSTRATIONS

FAGH

MORNING EAGLE FALLS, PIEGAN PASS REGION . Frontispiece Two MEDICINE CAMP ...... 38

Two MEDICINE LAKE ...... 38

GoiNG-TO-THE-SuN MOUNTAIN . .... 42

MANY GLACIER HOTEL ON LAKE MCDERMOTT . 48 LAKE MCDERMOTT AND GRINNELL MOUNTAIN . 48 THE START FROM CAMP . . . . .58

NEW AUTOMOBILE ROAD, MANY GLACIER CAMP . 72 LAKE LOUISE AND GUNSIGHT PASS. MOUNT JACKSON 82

ON THE RIGHT .......

LOOKING SOUTHEAST PROM TRIPLE DIVIDE MOUNTAIN 90 FOLLOWING UP THE HUNTERS — CUT BANKS VICINITY 98 TOURISTS ON PIEGAN PASS TRAIL, GOULD MOUNTAIN

IN THE BACKGROUND . . . . .108 WILD FLOWERS NEAR CUT BANK CAMP . .118; ST. MARY'S LAKE . . . . . . .142

CAMP AT ST. MARY'S LAKE 142

ICEBERG LAKE . . . . . . .150

AVALANCHE LAKE . . . . . . .150

BLACKFEET GLACIER ...... 158

BLACKFEET INDIAN CAMP AT CUT BANKS . . 202 A PIEGAN MOTHER 226

Chapter I Nature's Great Play-ground

fTHHE Glacier National Park may well be de- A fined as a great play-ground formed and equipped by the powerful forces of nature. It is a veritable "little paradise" filled with scenic beauties which can but fill the tourist with vigour, with a deeper love of life and nature, and with a purer and more healthy mind. Any play-ground which serves to develop these qualities in one, thereby increasing his power for efficiency, fulfils its mission in the fullest and best sense.

In 1910 President Taft signed the bill which had been passed by Congress, creating this great wonder-place as a national park, thus giving to the people of our country a permanent play-ground which possesses a charm and fascination for all nature-lovers and is easily accessible to all.

Glacier Park is located in the northwestern

part of Montana on the main line of the Great

Northern Railroad. Its boundaries are the Canadian border on the north, the Blackfeet Indian Reservation on the east, the Great Northern Railroad on the south and the Flathead River on the west. This great "mountain land" park covers an area of over 1400 square miles or about 900,000 acres of the most picturesque and magnificent portion of the Rocky Mountains, commonly termed and structurally so, the "backbone" of the American continent.

That part of the Rockies traversing the Park consists of a very broad range, or, as some regard it, two chains, an eastern and a western division of mountain masses extending in a northwesterly direction. The Continental Divide, in true serpentine fashion, follows the crest of the eastern chain from the southern boundary to a little beyond Ahern Pass, where it crosses to the western chain, thence continuing on and into the Canadian Rockies. This "roof of America" is marked throughout its course by giant peaks, towering from 8000 to 10,000 feet in height, which stand like sentinels to guard enchanted land.

It might be well at this point to make reference to Flattop Mountain, which lies enclosed within the crests of these two chains and just

NATURE'S PLAY-GROUND 21

south of where the Continental Divide crosses from one to the other. The region thus rimmed, though a mountain itself, 6500 feet in height, is comparatively level as its name implies, and in itself forms a most beautiful little natural park. The "walking tourist" in search of a camping site could find no more attractive and alluring spot than this, with its rolling surface and open forest, on which to "pitch his tent." Here, surrounded by snow-capped mountains and within reach of sparkling streams, one might feel that he had reached the land where "it seemed always afternoon."

The approach from the east to the Park is most abrupt because of the extreme ruggedness of the mountains on that side. The traveller, after riding many wearisome hours over treeless prairies, suddenly becomes aware of a change in the landscape, which is rapidly giving way from the monotonous stretch of the plains to a view of varied beauty. Before him, piled high in majestic grandeur, lie the mighty, silent mountains, many of which are snow-mantled.

With this vision now constantly before him, neither the tourist to the Park, nor the transcontinental traveller who now looks out with perhaps a little more interest as he is passing through this region, has the faintest conception that beyond these "shining mountains" are stretches of the most superb and sublime scenery — more mountains, deep canyons, beautiful lakes, glistening glaciers, sombre forests, and tumbling water-falls, all representing the work of the great forces of nature, which are forever controlled by the Great Master Builder.

This great play-ground is waiting for the people to come and enjoy its beauties and to indulge in actual "sports" within its borders. Two stations give entrance to the Park, — an eastern gateway at Glacier Park Station and a western at Belton. The main entrance, however, is the eastern one, as this point marks the beginning of the Automobile Highway which connects this place with the Many-Glacier region.

Trips into the interior may be made in any manner the tourist desires, whether by automobile, by horse-back, or by walking. To see the Park in its entirety one must go either by saddle-horse or walk, as it is only by one or the other of these two ways that the ascent of a lofty mountain can be made, or a climb to view some glacier.

The scenic attractions of Glacier Park are so many and so varied that they cannot adequately be described. Within its borders are more than

NATURE'S PLAY-GROUND 23

eighty glaciers, from which fact the Park receives its name. While these are small compared with Alaskan glaciers and even inferior in size to those of the Alps, yet their setting amidst such unsurpassed mountain scenery is sufficient to stimulate the tourist to an effort to see them. Blackfeet Glacier, lying within the shadows of Mt. Jackson and Blackfeet Mountain, is the largest. From Gunsight Camp one can easily walk to the edge of this glacier, and at certain times, with guides who must be equipped with ropes and alpen-stocks, may venture upon its surface. As one looks upon these great ice-masses he realises that these are the mighty tools which have sculptured the mountains into such fantastic shapes, which have fashioned the valleys, and formed the hollows in which beautiful lakes lie.

The lakes form another source of attraction and in this the Park is not lacking, for there are many of them, numbering over 250, all varying in size, shape and colour. No more beautiful view is imaginable than that which meets the eye of the tourist, as, from some high, steep, zig-zag trail on the side of a huge mountain, he looks far into the valley below and there, surrounded by snow-capped mountains for a background, or hemmed in by forests of dark pine, a lovely lake lies shimmering in the sunlight, unsurpassed in beauty and brilliancy. No jewel with its setting of the most exquisite design can rival this gem of the mountains nestling in its hollow.

Among so many lakes those not to be missed by the traveller are Lake McDonald, the largest ; Upper St. Mary connecting St. Mary Camp with Going-to-the-Sun Camp ; McDermott and Altyn linked by a small creek; beautiful Grinnell receiving its waters from the glacier and mountain of the same name; Gunsight Lake, like a small mirror; Two-Medicine Lake; and Iceberg Lake with its phenomenal feature of icebergs floating about in the water.

While all of these lakes are quite generally alike in that each rests in a pocket, surrounded in part or wholly by towering rock-walls, and when unruffled by any breeze, presents a glasslike surface which truthfully reflects every natural feature within its reach, yet, too, each has its own peculiar characteristics marking an individuality as truly as each person possesses, and which distinguishes it from every other.

Nature has been most generous in supplying this play-ground with music in various degrees of volume, tone-colour, and sweetness. What pipe-organ can approach in effect the thunder-

NATURE'S PLAY-GROUND 25

ous roar of Morning Eagle Falls near Piegan Pass, or of Golden Stair Waterfall, giving forth a different tone with each successive leap over the various ledges, and yet producing a harmonious whole as it falls upon the ear of the traveller, following the trail to Iceberg Lake, or, again, the rushing water at Trick Falls with its precipitous plunge, a view of which amply repays one for the time taken from the main roadway to follow a little side trail for a half-mile through the woods.

Added to these may be heard the musical flow of countless streams falling down the mountain sides and breaking into little ripples over the pebbly paths; the gushing of a crystal stream from some subterranean tunnel ; and the on-rush of a torrent through some deep canyon.

Over and above all these, the feathered songsters of the air pour forth an abundance of music not to be surpassed by instrument nor human voice.

"And sometimes in the distant woods apart, The tall trees whisper, heart to heart,"

in such sighing accents that one can only wonder if the great pine forest is wailing forth a requiem for those natives of the region who have passed beyond and away.

For "thrillers" the Park has its "skyland" trails. The most venturesome may have his fill of excitement as he follows one of these "ribbons" stretched along and across the Divide. It may wind through a beautiful forest emitting a delicious fragrance, with here and there open stretches upon which Dame Nature has spread floral rugs of various beautiful colours and designs; then suddenly at a bend change into "switches," each turn taking one higher and higher, until it leads around the shoulder of a mountain in a thread-like line which seems to the rider or walker (at this point of progress many brave "riders" become "walkers") that it becomes more narrow at every step and he feels a most affectionate regard for the "mountain"- side of a trail, as now and then a quick glance over the edge reveals a precipice whose walls are almost vertical and measuring 3000 or 4000 feet in height.

Glacier Park has its own "zoo" in a natural way. Here in native haunts may be found the grizzly bear, the black bear, the elk, the moose, and the deer. Along the edges of cliffs the •mountain-goat and the mountain-sheep may be seen

NATURE'S PLAY-GROUND 27

skilfully picking their way along, fearing no intrusion at that height. Occasionally the tracks of a mountain-lion are seen — mute evidence that he may be lurking near. These animals are all protected by law. Fish abound in many of the lakes and streams, and certain varieties are said to be "gamey" in resisting the efforts of the angler to a closer acquaintance, even though he be provided with a license.

Rising above and beyond all these other features of the place, and excelling all in grandeur, are the mountains themselves, forming a setting and background for these. Some lie piled up in almost solitary grandeur in an attitude suggesting repose; others are forbidding in aspect and appear bristling with resentfulness the approach of the mountain-climbers. The beautifully various coloured strata of the summit of this peak catches the glints of the sunset and is thrown in bold relief against a cloudless sky, while its neighbour lifts its white crest heavenward in matchless beauty. No two are alike. All are wonderful and represent the greatest architecture of the world.

In this great outdoor institute of art the geological student may find a field for study ; the artist, a panorama of colour and design; the musician, an inspiration for composition and expression; the architect, a study of nature's balance and construction ; the sportsman, a place in which to ride> motor and fish ; the tired brain-worker, a source of mental uplift; and the everyday common nature-lover unburdened with analytical ideas, a wholesome, clean place for pure enjoyment, with an environment of the most majestic beauties and wonders of nature, which are only the expression of God's handiwork.

Chapter II

IN perfect harmony with their setting, deep in among the mountains of Glacier National Park, are the hotels, chalet-villages, and tepeecamps. They form not the least interesting feature of this mountain land. True, some who are looking for a wilderness in their visit to this great play-ground, and who carry their "hotels" in a "rucksack" on their backs, consider these accommodations an unwelcome luxury and an unnecessary comfort, if not a sacrilege.

But in every play-ground are there not those who care only to look on, as well as those who play for all there is in the game? So here in Glacier National Park are those who are satisfied to look from a distance upon the panorama of lofty peaks, as well as those who brave the dangers and discomforts of mountain climbs. Countless thousands who do not care to hike over skyland trails by day and at night pitch their tent under the stars, can enjoy the beauties of the mirror lakes ; canyons and cliffs ; streams and water-falls; and evergreen forests.

For many who have come afar to look upon or climb among these crags and peaks, it is a charm of this wonderland, and more, a contribution to their happiness, to find these chalet-groups and hotels where one may sit down to a well-cooked dinner, enjoy a hot bath, and sleep in a clean, comfortable bed. After a long day's tramp or a hard ride there is no more welcoming cheer than a charming chalet. Many a rainy day will be encountered in this land of mountain walls. Where, then, is one better off than reading before a blazing, crackling log in a huge fireplace ; or enjoying the wonderful cloud effects from the windows of a rustic lodge ?

Evening was drawing on and long twilight shadows were creeping softly from the valleys to take possession of the snowy peaks of the Park, when the "Oriental Limited" brought us into Glacier Park Station, the eastern and, from its geographical location, the main entrance to that summer play-ground, within the gigantic walls of which is to be found some of the grandest scenery of the world.

Here just beyond the Park entrance portal, built of huge fir logs, is Glacier Park Hotel, one of the most magnificent and most unique mountain hotels of America. The many electric lights of the hotel and grounds answered one another across the growing darkness and gleamed like huge fire-flies, as we passed along the gravelled walk that leads up the rising ground on which the hotel is built.

Even as we walked on, the shadows grew upon the hills, and we paused to look upon that rampart wall, the lure of which, from the first, seems irresistible. The kindling of that mysterious afterglow dimmed the light of stars, and, silhouetted against the western sky, were the snow-capped mountains that stand out like sentinels to guard that region of wild beauty beyond — the true mountaineers' fascinating field of exploration and enjoyment.

We cannot readily forget the first impression received of the setting of this great hostelry, as we saw it from the wide verandas the next sunlit morning. Delightful was the landscape, bounded westward by the lovely forested hills beyond which rise abruptly in the high but gracefully varied outlines of the Lewis Range, Mt. Henry, Squaw Mt., Red Crow Mt., Bearhead Mt., and Bison Mt. To the east as far as eye could see stretched the flowerful plains of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.

One hundred and sixty acres comprise the grounds of the hotel. These in landscape garden effect are laid out in close-cut lawns, shrubbery, flower-beds, garden walks and tennis courts. The rushing ripple of Midvale Creek comes to one's ears as it surges down through a timbered vale just beyond the hotel, where most picturesquely a group of Blackfeet Indian tepees are pitched.

The "Great Log Lodge," as the Blackfeet call the "Glacier Park," most ingeniously typifies the atmosphere and traditions of this Indian land of the eagle and the Rocky Mountain goat. Built in rustic Swiss style of architecture, it differs from any hotel of the Alps. The giant forest trees of the Northwest have contributed mainly in the construction of the outer walls. More than fifty huge fir tree columns support the thousands of feet of outside piazzas and galleries of this mammoth mountain caravansary. The ground plan features two wings — the western of four stories and the eastern of three stories, linked by a sun lounge ninety feet long. These sections with the spacious kitchen annex give a total length to the building of nearly six hundred and fifty feet.

But the chief interest of the "Glacier Park" lies in the beautiful interior. Here again one stands in admiration at the simple charm yet grand dimensions achieved by both architect and builder. From the moment that he enters the visitor finds a succession of surprises awaiting and a complete satisfaction prevailing him.

A great and impressive feature of this wonderful hotel is the "forest lobby." All tourists will have delight for their eyes on entering this public room. The general effect, especially if seen under the spell of the beautiful nightly illumination, is wonderfully fascinating. Most remarkably, in architectural details, decorations and furnishings has the true spirit of this high mountain world been achieved.

What strikes one as most unusual is the great colonnade of fir trees on which the bark has been retained, each weighing from fifteen to eighteen tons, and from four to five feet in diameter, which support the interior galleries that overlook the lobby. These giant columns rise to the skylight set in the ceiling sixty feet high. The rafters, gallery railings, office desks, counters, and great lamp-stands are all fashioned from huge tree trunks. Throughout the lobby the fragrant "Christmas trees" and huge flower baskets, filled with the lovely wild flowers of this region, most truly accentuate the "forest" scheme.

The walls are adorned with trophies of the chase, and our eyes are caught away by the priceless collection of antlers and skins of the big game that was hunted here in the days gone by. We noted the cinnamon, black and grizzly bears ; the Big Horn sheep ; the Rocky Mountain goat ; the deer; the elk; the moose; and the mountain lion ; as well as the ghostly skulls of the bison and the only existing specimen of the far-famed "wimpus" of Glacier National Park.

The lovely forest browns, greens, and greys of the walls, pillars, and balcony railings serve as a most effective background for the numerous specimens of Blackfeet handicraft as displayed in gay coloured rugs, blankets, and basketry.

The open camp fire made of a great bed of stones on the lobby floor, the strikingly beautiful frieze in oils, showing beauty spots of the Park, the countless totem poles, and on the second gallery, the buffalo skin tepee, which for centuries was the Council Lodge of the Blackfeet and now a gift of that tribe to the hotel, are noteworthy features of decoration.

None of the creature comforts and luxuries is wanting in the "Glacier Park." The sun lounge with its observation windows commanding the wonderful panorama of peaks and changing clouds; the music room; the spacious dining room; the grill; the plunge pool; the emergency hospital; the four hundred guest rooms, more than a hundred equipped with private bath ; the electrically equipped kitchen; the laundry; the fire station; the storehouse; the steam heating and telephone service, all are familiar knowledge to the many thousands who have enjoyed the hospitality of the "Glacier Park."

This hotel is the rendezvous for most of the tourists through the Park, who here arrange for their tours into the interior by auto-stage, launch, and saddle-horse service, or plan for tours "over trails afoot."

The Automobile Highway from which branch the chief trails for horseback tours begins at the "Glacier Park," and penetrates fifty-five miles deep into the mountains to the Many Glacier region. Exceptionally interesting side trips from the hotel may be made to St. Mary's Camp, Two Medicine Camp, and Cut Bank Camp. The ascent of Mt. Henry will prove a most enjoyable "first attempt" into the interior.

The chalet groups, resembling small Alpine villages, are scattered throughout the Park.

Studding the hillsides or lying embedded in some mountain hollow, these rustic lodges add greatly to the picturesqueness of the scenery. The pine logs and timber of which they are constructed acquire a rich brown colour from the elements, thus contrasting well with the bright green of the meadows or the sombre tones of the upland timber.

The individual structures of these groups are modelled after the Swiss chalets, being broad and low. The wide roofs are of gentle slopes and are formed of sheets of pine wood. Upon these large pine shingles are laid heavy stones in order that the roof may not be torn away during the fierce gales of winter. Around the outside walls of some of the chalets run galleries, sheltered by broad eaves, which spring out well beyond the sides. These quaint and pleasing houses are as comfortable inside as they are charming without. Most of the lounging and dormitory chalets have massive stone fireplaces. In general each chalet group features a dmmg-commissarylounging chalet, around which are grouped dormitories of various dimensions.

Life is far from conventional after one has penetrated the far recesses of the Park, yet in these mountain chalets we found in the service and cuisine everything harmonising with those conditions that make the joyful, care-free, outdoor existence in Glacier National Park.

In the land of one of the favourite legends which the Blackfeet have preserved to the present day, a scene of surprising variety, interest, and beauty awaits the tourist at Two Medicine Camp. Close to the water's edge, at the lower end of Two Medicine Lake, in a park-like clearing is this charming chalet group. To the east, crowded upon the camp, rise dark timbered masses piled up ridge upon ridge.