The gateway to the Polynia. A voyage to Spitzbergen

Front matter

THE GATEWAY TO THE POLYNIA.

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

CHAPTER I. Old Whaling Captains — Onr Schooner — Sealers — Ice Dangers

Our Crew — Ralph the Rover — The Shetlands — Scalloway Castle — Lerwick — Hard Times — Hialtlandia — Over-Greedi¬ ness — Fin Whales — Right Whales — Whales’ Food — Adven¬ tures with Whales . . . 53

Chapter II

Troubles in the Ice — Sea Birds — Wanderings on Shore — Objects of the Sea-shore — Extinct Craters — Fox Hunting — Aspect of the Icy Sea — First Experiences — In the Ice— Seal Shooting — Shoals of Seals — Seals and their Habits — Collecting Seal Oil — A Long Jump— Fog Gathering — Dodges to get within Range — Disappointment — Seal Battue — Danger Averted . 87

Chapter III

Peterhead Steamers — Fleet of Sealers — Narwhal — We “Lie on Bran” — A Fall ! A Fall ! — Monodon Monoceros — Arctic Black Hole of Calcutta — Drifting Ice — Pursuit of Narwhal — A Sad Picture — Seals out of Water . . . . . , .127

b

CONTENTS.

viii

Chapter IV. Tage

Only a Fly — Summer Beverages — Whale Adventure —Death of the Whale — Flencing the Whale — Wasted Ice — The Dreamer — Cunning of the Bear — Enthusiastic Nimrods — Dead Whale — The Farmer— Bear Outwitted — Awkward Complication —

Deep Sea Soundings . . . * . . .151

Chapter IX

A Short Cut — A Dangerous Descent— A Signal not Understood — Reindeer — Game less Abundant — A Day’s Outing — On the Mountain Side — A Scramble — A Push and a Pinch — A Love Letter . . 234

CONTENTS.

ix.

Chapter X. Page

Foreign Sailors — Old Stagers — The Snow Goose — A Remote Guano

Bed — Geological Rambles . 255

Chapter XI

Barentsz’s Voyage — Nova Zenibla— Russians and Hollanders — Linschoten — Gerard le Ver — The Waigatz— Adventure with a Bear — Barentsz and Rijp — Beeren Island — Commencement of Winter — Sun Disappears — Effects of Refraction — Scientific Observations — Death of Barentsz — Barentsz’s Relics . . 268

Chapter XII

Professor Nordenskiold— Boats for the Journey — Method of Travel¬ ling — Parry’s Journal — Latitude 81° 31' 41// N. — Meteoro¬ logical Observations — Stout-built Boats — Thickness of the Ice ■ — Formation of Ice — Long Time getting to 83° — If they had a Steamer — New Appliances — Dogs not Approved of — Shall we go North ? — Our Schooner — Whitby Lights — Old Customs Preserved — Scientific Inquiry in the North — Spitzbergen Route — Navigation comparatively Easy — Smith Sound Advo¬ cates — The Lydiana — New Land Reconnoitred — Iceberg System . 301

Appendix

. 351

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE.

RED BEACH, SPITSBERGEN . Frontispiece.

BARENTSZ RELICS . . 11

WHALE . 64

RUINS OF SCALLOWAY CASTLE . 68

SHARK .

WHALES’ FOOD . . . 82

BOTTLE-NOSE WHALE . 85

SEA-BIRD . 91

BRENT GEESE, EIDER DUCKS, AND YOUNG SNOW GOOSE . . 95

•YACHT IN AN ICE FIELD . 104

TREACHEROUS ICE . 168

NARWHAL . 136

BEAR AND SEAL . 167

STAR-FISH . 191

WALRUS , . 201

SKELETON OF A WHALE . 205

ICE IN SMITH SOUND .

REINDEER . 223

LAKE, WITH REINDEER . 229

WHITE WHALE . . 231

REINDEER SEEN IN PASS . 232

A SHORT CUT . 235

MOUNTAIN RAVINE . 236

DANGEROUS DESCENT . 237

ON THE MOUNTAIN SIDE . 247

A PUSH AND A PINCH . 251

VIEW FROM THE PEAK BETWEEN ICY FIORD AND WIDDIE BAY 252

SKETCH IN RED BAY . 256

king’s BAY . 259

PARTING WITH N ORDEN SKIOLD . 326

prince Charles’s foreland . 331

WATERSPOUT . 350

SOME of the fossil leaves we found in spitzbergen . 352 g'JUAIion Squire

THE

GATE-WAY TO THE POLYNIA:

BEING

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBEEGEN.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

The British Sailor has taken a leading part in the exploration of the North Polar Regions since the Vene¬ tian merchant of Bristol, John Cabot, led the wayunder the patronage of Henry VII. , at the close of the fifteenth century. The names of Willoughby, Frobisher, Davis, Hudson, Baffin, Boss, Parry, Frank¬ lin, Scoresby, Beechy, Back, and many others belong¬ ing to individuals who are yet alive, recall to our minds the deeds of our countrymen — deeds which shed a lustre upon the annals of the British Navy. At one time the motive for such enterprise was based upon commercial considerations, the desire being to p»

A VOYAGE TO SPI TZBER GEN.

find a northerly passage to the wealth-producing East Indies. At another time, the efforts of our men were urged on by the hope of relieving, or of ascertaining the fate of, Sir John Franklin and his crew. It is now well established that there is not the slightest chance of finding any commercial route in high north lati¬ tudes which is likely to supersede those at present in use ; and we have learnt all, or nearly all, that it is possible to do respecting Sir John Franklin and his crew. For many years past the English Government has relaxed its efforts, and the lead is being taken by other nations, such as the Germans, Swedes, Nor¬ wegians, Russians, and Americans. We want a new motive to rouse up the spirit of the nation and Govern¬ ment ; and what higher and nobler one can be found than the search for truth and the advancement of science ? This is the duty of a government, to pro¬ mote the national welfare, and one of the surest ways in which this can be done is by encouraging scientific efforts. Millions are spent every year upon the navy and army, the main result of which is a large estab¬ lishment and the performance of routine duty. It would cost little, if anything more, to give a large proportion of the men work to do, which would develop their intellectual and moral faculties, and thereby render them not only more useful in peace, but also more

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

effective in war. Captain Sherard Osborn lias re¬ peatedly dwelt upon this in his many spirit-stirring addresses advocating a renewal of Polar Exploration. In one of these addresses, read by him before the Eoyal Geographical Society on January 23, 1865, he says: “ The Navy needs some action to wake it up from the sloth of routine, and save it from the canker of pro¬ longed peace. ... You are not going to educate us, work us up to the point of nautical perfection, awaken hopes and ambition, and then give us oakum to pick ; or run us over the mast-head after top-gallant yards, to keep down the spirit which intellectual progress has evoked. The Navy of England cries not for mere war to gratify its desire for honourable employment or fame. There are other achievements, it knows well, as glorious as victorious battles : and a wise ruler and a wise people will, I hold, be careful to satisfy a crav¬ ing which is the life-blood of a profession — indeed, I hold that it ought to be fostered and encouraged.” There are few ways in which this spirit can be better fostered than by Polar Exploration, and so popular is such service amongst our sailors, more especially Arctic sailors, that hundreds of them volunteer to go when any project of this kind is afloat. From this point of view, the exploration of the higher latitudes is a matter for government, and not for private enterprise.

A VOYAGE TO tSEITZBEUGEN.

From the scientific point of view, it is a matter which requires both government and private enterprise. Many people, however, ask what is the use of such explorations ? Who cares, say they, for a lot of barren ice-clad lands or frozen seas 1 and why should you encourage men to risk their lives for such objects as these ? These questions chiefly emanate from those who do not see the advantage of prosecuting anything which does not promise a handsome pecuniary profit ; who over-estimate the risks incidental to Arctic ad¬ venture, and who cannot appreciate successes which are simply scientific. Arctic voyages have yielded good fruit in the past, and there is every prospect of greater gains accruing to science from the explorations of the future. The present phase of Arctic Explora¬ tion, the characteristic feature of which is the attempt * to reach the Pole, combined more or less with a spirit of scientific inquiry, promises to be a more glorious one than either of the two preceding phases ; and since the English Navy has taken a leading share in these, it is to be hoped it will take a foremost one in the pre¬ sent phase.

In this introductory chapter the object will be to give, first, a rapid sketch of Arctic voyages ; next, to show in a very summary way some of the results due to, and probable advantages to be derived from, Arctic research ; and lastly, to make a few

remarks on the routes by which the Polar area is accessible.

The Phoenician mariners were probably the first recorded persons to enter the Arctic circle, the Ultima Thule of the ancients being apparently Iceland. The Irish may have again visited it in the sixth century. It was again discovered by a Norwegian named Naddodr in 860, and shortly after colonized by Norse¬ men. In 890 Ohther made a voyage round the northern part of Norway, and along a portion of the north coast of Eussia. Soon after this an Icelandic fisherman, Gembiorn, got caught in a gale which drove him a long way to the west. The first land he sighted was Cape Farewell, or, as he called it, Hoidsaerk (white shirt), from its being clad in white snow. The land was called GembionTs Land. In or about 982 Erek the Red was banished from Iceland, upon which he resolved to explore GembionTs Land. He soon reached the east coast of Greenland, which he followed in a southerly direction, and doubled Cape Farewell. The west coast was then explored for about a day’s journey beyond, or as far as Hvarf, which is probably the modern Cape Egede. . He returned to Iceland, and induced many of his countrymen to colonize the west coast of Greenland. These colonists

A VOYAGE TO 8PI TZBER GEN, chiefly maintained themselves by hunting for whales, seals, &c., and by fishing ; and in their pursuit of these occupations they frequented some hunting sta¬ tions far to the north, one of which was called Northern Saeta. Their Bjarney, or Bear Island, is identified by Rofu with Disco Island. The region beyond Northern Saeta they called Furthern Stranda, of which Baffin's Bay was a part. Flow far north they advanced it is difficult to say, but a Runic inscription found on the island of Kingitorsoak, and bearing date 1135, shows that they had then reached at least as high as 12° 55' N. These colonies flourished for a while, but owing to diseases, wars, and other misfortunes, they gradually declined and became extinct by about the beginning of the fifteenth century. In 1474 Columbus visited Iceland, and even sailed one hundred leagues beyond it ; and it is not improbable he may have heard from the Icelanders traditions of their former occupation of Greenland and portions of the American continent. John Cabot, a native of Venice, but established as a merchant at Bristol, may also have heard of the western lands from the same source, since it is well known the Bristol merchant traded both with Norway and with Iceland. In 1497 John Cabot and his son Sebastian discovered Newfoundland. In 1498 Sebastian com¬ manded a small fleet destined for Newfoundland, and

INTRODUCTORY CHARTER .

discovered Labrador, as also the great abundance of cod-fish along this coast. He also entered some strait, which some have thought was Hudson’s Strait, but which was in all probability the Strait of Belle Isle at the mouth of the St. Lawrence. In 1500 a Portu¬ guese, Gasper Cortoreale, fitted out some ships at his own expense, and coasted all along Labrador, as far as 60°, where he saw a river or strait blocked with ice, which he named Eio Nevado, but which is doubt¬ less' Hudson’s Strait. These voyages had the effect of developing the Newfoundland cod-fishery, which was already well established in 1504. In 1517 Sebastian Cabot entered Hudson’s Strait. After 'this there was a pause in the progress of Arctic discovery, although Master Robert Thorne made a bold proposition for an expedition to be sent across the Polar area to the Moluccas, and two ships were sent, but nothing of im¬ portance was done. In 1553 Sir Hugh Willoughby and Richard Chancelor were sent out under the in¬ structions of Sebastian Cabot, to proceed to China by a north-east route. Willoughby commanded the Bona Esperanza , Chancelor the Edward Bonaventure , and Durfoorth the Bona Conjidentia. When off the Nor¬ wegian coast the ships got separated by a storm, Willoughby proceeded as far as Willoughby’s Land, which is probably a portion of Nova Zembla, and

A VOYAGE TO SPI TZBEBGEN.

wintered on the Russian coast near the Dwina ; but the whole company were killed by frost and starvation. This disastrous result would have been prevented had the men been experienced in Arctic travelling, for they could have laid in a sufficient stock of turf and dwarf shrubs for fuel ; and could have secured plenty of food, since some of the papers that have been recovered state that while the sailors were searching in all direc¬ tions for natives to help them, they saw many bears, deer, foxes, and other animals, while those in the ship saw seals and whales in abundance. Chancelor pro¬ ceeded to St. Nichola in the White Sea, and returned home through Russia by way of Moscow. His success led to the establishment of the Muscovy or Russia Company, by which many of the subsequent expedi¬ tions in search of the North-East and North-West Pas¬ sages were organized and supported. In 1556 they sent Stephen Burrough out in the Serchthrift , and Sebastian Cabot, then eighty-eight years of age, saw the vessel off, and bade the expedition “ God cheer. ” Burrough passed the island of Kolguev on July 14th, and next day he reached the coast of the mouth of the Petchora. He saw the St. J ames’s Islands, and on July 31st he anchored amongst the Waigats Islands. He was the first navigator to sail into the Sea of Kara by the Karagate. In 1576 the project of the North-

West Passage was renewed by Sir Martin Frobisher, after having been neglected for nearly eighty years. Frobisher had been agitating his plans for fifteen years, and at last obtained support from the Earl of Warwick, and from Michael Lok, a man of wealth. Hence he christened Greenland, West England. On July 28 he saw Queen Elizabeth's Foreland, and went fifty leagues up Frobisher's Bay, which he considered to be a strait, and which he flattered himself would lead him to Cathay. He took home a piece of iron pyrites under the impression that it was an ore rich in gold. His second voyage was simply occupied in procuring three ship-loads of this ore, which was found to be worthless. On the third voyage (in 1578) he took out fifteen ships to be laden with this ore. When off the Queen Elizabeth's Foreland a storm blew him towards the straits, which he called Frobisher's Mis¬ taken Straits, but which are commonly known as Hudson's Straits. He entered them, and found a fine open passage, through which, it is said, he “ would and could have gone through to the South Sea." There was plenty of ice at the entrance, but farther in the sea was free from ice. However, his duty was to get the ore, and it was only when he found he had mis¬ taken his way that he returned by a cross channel into Frobisher's Bay. In 1585 the London merchants again

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBEEGEN .

subscribed for another north-west voyage, and in this and the following two years, John Davis commanded three successive expeditions. He sighted Greenland, and visited Gilbert’s Sound in 64° 30' N. From this he proceeded, on August 6, for five days, towards the north-west, and sighted land again in 66° 40', at an anchorage free from ice. He named various prominent features here, such as Mount Raleigh and Cape Walsingham. This was the highest latitude then reached on the American side of Davis’ Strait. He coasted this land to the south, passed the Cape of God’s Mercy, sailed up Northumberland Inlet, and worked his way south into Frobisher’s Strait, and then into Hudson’s Strait. In his second voyage Davis simply explored the coast of Labrador. In his third voyage he went as far north, along the west coast of Greenland, as Cape Hope Sanderson, in 72° 15', or well into Baffin’s Bay ; he seems to have reached the North Water, and hence to have been the pioneer to this well-known whaling ground.

The account of Barentsz’s voyages is given in the body of our work, and here we may allude only to the discovery which was made this year of the house in which these hardy men lived during the long winter; the relics brought home are now de¬ posited in the National Museum of Holland. The various articles found are figured in the sketch appended.

Captain Waymouth's expedition, sent out in 1602 by the Muscovy Company in search of the North-West Passage, traversed ground which had been previously explored ; and the expeditions of Cun¬ ningham and Hall in 1605, and of John Knight in 1607, were also without any result. In 1609, Henry Hudson, whose earlier voyages will be noticed pre¬ sently, discovered Hudson's Bay ; and in 1610 he was nominated to the command of the Discovery , with a view to renewing the attempt to find the North-West Passage. He went into Frobisher's Bay, which was

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN.

much obstructed with ice, then crossed the mouth of Hudson's Strait into Ungava Bay, and worked his way round the coast of the continent into James's Bay, where he wintered. On November 21 his crew mutinied, and he and a few others were turned adrift in a small boat. Nothing more was heard of them. In 1612, Sir Thomas Button, accompanied by Bylot and Prickett, explored portions of Southampton Island and Hudson's Bay, and wintered there without any material injury to the crew. In 1615, Bylot and Baffin passed Mill Island in Hudson's Strait, and traced the north-east coast of Southampton Island, from Sea- Horse Point to Cape Comfort. Baffin suggested that the North-West Passage should be sought off Davis' Strait, not through Hudson's Strait. Accordingly, in his next voyage, in 1616, also in company with Bylot, he passed Hope Sanderson on May 30, and was stopped by the ice in Horn Sound, 74° N. When the ice per¬ mitted, he kept on north, passing by Cape Dudley Digges in 76° 35' N., Walstenholme Sound, Whale Sound in 77° 30' N., and Hakluyt's Island. He pro¬ ceeded a little north of this, and saw a large sound stretching away north, which he named Smith’s Sound. He then turned south, following the west side of Baffin's Bay. He saw Cary Islands, Jones's Sound, and Lan¬ caster Sound, which was blocked up by ice (July 12).

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

Through stress of weather, together with the ill-health of his crew, he was unable to ascend these sounds, and was compelled to make for the coast of Greenland. His report of the great abundance of whale in Davis’ Strait led to the whale fishery there. Meuck’s voyage to Hudson’s Bay in 1619 calls for no remark ; and that of Captain Luke Fox, in 1631, was chiefly a re-survey of what Button had seen. Fox, however, coasted along the east side of Cumberland Strait, as far as St. Peregrine, in 66° 47' N. In the same year Captain James wintered in James’s Bay, and discovered Charlton Island. After this period most of the north¬ west expeditions were at the expense, not of the Mus¬ covy Company, but of the Hudson’s Bay Company ; but none of these advanced beyond previous explorers until we come to Captain Middleton, who, in 1741, discovered Wager Biver, entered Repulse Bay, and saw the Frozen Strait off Southampton Island.

The voyage of Moor and Smith, in 1746, did not lead to the discovery of the North-West Passage, nor to any discoveries within the Arctic circle, but both their ships went up Chesterfield Inlet. Hearne’s land journeys added much to our geographical knowledge of North America ; but in this place they are noticeable, because he advanced to the mouth of the Coppermine River, in 67° 48' N. ; since this fact showed that the

A VOYAGE TO 8 PITZBEBGEN.

North-West Passage must be within the Arctic circle. This was also shown by Cook, in 1 776, when he coasted along the west coast of America, through Behring's Strait, as far as Ice Cape, in 70° N. In 1789, Sir N. Mackenzie followed the Mackenzie River to its ter¬ mination in the Arctic Sea. He determined the lati¬ tude of Whale Island, off the mouth of the river, to be 69° 15' N. In 1818, Captain John Ross and Lieute¬ nant W. E. Parry went up Davis’ Strait, but they did little more than confirm the observations of Baffin. Lancaster Sound was, however, now found to be free from ice, and Captain Ross sailed into it a short way. He was induced to return by the sight of the Croker Mountains, which subsequent research proved to be purely visionary. His own men doubted the accuracy of his sight, and accordingly Parry was sent in 1819 to explore Lancaster Sound. His ships, the Hecla and Griper , passed over the supposed site of the Croker Mountains, through Barrow's Strait and Parry’s Sound, to the south side of Melville's Island, where he wintered in Winter Harbour. In the following year he at¬ tempted to advance through McClure’s Sound, but did not succeed. His first voyage was undertaken in two small ships, the Gabriel and the Michael , and narra¬ tives of this and his subsequent voyages were written by Hall, Best, Settle, and Ellis. The first land sighted

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

was Cape Desolation, near the south end of Greenland. Here the Michael left Frobisher, who, notwithstanding his vessel had been much damaged by storms, deter¬ mined to see whether he could not strike land by pur¬ suing a north-west course. It should be remembered that at this time the discoveries of the Icelanders had been forgotten, and were hidden antiquarian lore not accessible. This was one of the most successful and ably-conducted Arctic voyages which had yet been made. He discovered the islands of North Devon, Cornwallis, Bathurst, Melville, North Somerset, Cape Walker, and Banks's Land, which forms part of Baring's Island. From 1819 to 1822 Sir John Franklin made extensive journeys in the Hudson's Bay territories. He went to the mouth of the Coppermine River, and from thence took a boat and surveyed the coast as far east as Point Turnagain, in 68° 19' N. In 1821 Sir W. E. Parry again went out, accompanied by Captain Lyon, and confirmed the discoveries of Middleton. He passed the first winter at Winter Island, and the second at Igloolik, and followed the Fury and Hecla Strait to its junction with Regent Inlet. In 1824 he again at¬ tempted to reach Regent Inlet, but without success. In 1825 a series of explorations were organised : Franklin, in this and following years, surveyed the coast from the Mackenzie River on the east to the

A VOYAGE TO SPIT ZEE EGEN.

Return Eeef on the west, or to within one hundred and sixty miles of Point Barrow. Captain Beeehey sailed through Behring’s Strait to Point Barrow, in 71° 38' N. Dr. Richardson and Lieutenant Kendall coasted in boats from the mouth of the Mackenzie River eastward, doubling Cape Bathurst, in 70° 31' N., and Cape Parry, in 70° 6' N. They passed through the Dolphin and Union Strait, and thus reached the mouth of the Coppermine River. These discoveries rendered a North-West Passage almost certain, for, with the exception of one hundred and sixty miles, the north coast of America had been traced from Behring’s Strait to Point Turnagain, in 109° 25' W. ; while Parry had advanced in a higher latitude to about 116° W. The discovery of a connecting north and south passage would complete the search. In 1829 Captain John Ross commanded an expedition sent out at the expense of Sir Felix Booth. He discovered Boothia Felix, explored portions of the Gulf of Boothia, and determined the site of the magnetic pole. His stay was an unusually prolonged one, his return to England not occurring till 1833. His brother, James Clark Ross, made extensive sledge journeys, in the course of which he traced portions of King William’s Island, Boothia Felix, and North Somerset; but he crossed Brentford Bay without noticing Bellot’s Strait,

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

which bounds the northernmost point of the continent in 72° N. Owing to the long absence of this expedi¬ tion, Captain Back, supported by public subscription, was sent in search of it. He wintered in 1833 on Great Slave Lake, and in 1834 descended the Back Biver to its mouth, and explored the coast from Cape Britannia to Point Richardson, thus almost reaching the southern termination of James C. Rosss sledge journey. Back’s voyage, in 1836, failed in accomplishing its object, but the work which it was proposed to do was in great part effected in the years 1837, 1838, and 1839, by Messrs. Dease and Simpson, who, in a series of boat- voyages, traced the coast from Point Barrow to the estuary of the Back River. The/ laid down portions of Wol¬ laston Land, and of King William’s Island. Thus, the only gap in the completion of the North-West Passage was a connection between Franklin’s Channel and the Gulf of Boothia. Dr. Rae was selected to make this completion. He surveyed portions of the Gulf of Boothia, and found that the Boothia isthmus separated this gulf from the sea explored by Dease and Simpson. In 1845 Sir John Franklin was sent out in command of the Erebus and Terror to attempt the North-West Passage. In July the expedition reached Whale Fish Island, Baffin’s Bay, from whence letters weredespatched, and the last that was seen of it was;

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBEBGEN.

on July 26, when it was making for Lancaster Sound.

In 1858 Sir Leopold McClintock and liis expedition found some documents, from which it appears that Franklin proceeded through Lancaster Sound, and up Wellington Channel, to the north of Bathurst and Grinnell Island ; then they turned south, through Crosier Channels, Barrow’s Strait, Peel’s Sound, and Franklin Channel, thus completing the discovery of the long-sought-for North-West voyage. The crew must have explored or seen portions of North Somerset,, Prince of Wales’s Island, Boothia Felix, and King Wil¬ liam’s Island, on or near which most of the crew died in the spring of 1848. As no news could be gleaned,, search parties were sent out, the first in 1847, and McClintock’s, which was the fortieth, in 1857. Here,, however, we can only notice those which proceeded over new ground.

In 1849 Sir J. C. Eoss traversed Peel Sound, and examined the coast of North Somerset as far south as- 72° 38' N. Parry surveyed Wellington Channel as. far as Cape Beecher. Captain Austin examined por¬ tions of Bathurst’s Island and By am Martin’s Island, as. also portions of Prince of Wales’s Island and Bussell’s Island. This latter work was chiefly done by Captain Sherard Osborn, who was then a lieutenant. Captain

Austin also entered Jones Sound. In 1850 Captain M'Clure proceeded through Behring s Strait, doubled Point Barrow, and continued into the south end of Banks's Land or Baring s Island. He then passed through Prince of Wales's Strait, and got stopped by the ice in Parry's Sound. He wintered in the strait, and explored portions of the northern part of Wol¬ laston Land, which he named Prince Albert Land. Parties sent out by him travelled round most of the island, the only part of the coast not explored being about one hundred and sixty miles along McClintock's Channel. In 1851 the attempt to cross Parry's Sound was renewed, but without success. A more northern route was tried, but he was compelled to take shelter in the Bay of Mercy, on the north side of Baring's Island. The ship was ice-bound during the next two winters, being relieved by Captain Kellett, of the Resolute . The ship was abandoned, but Captain M‘Clure and his crew were transferred to the North Star , which took them to England through Baffin's Bay, and they were consequently the first persons who had traversed the North-West Passage from end to end. Mr. Kennedy and Lieutenant Bellot discovered Bellot's Strait in 1852. In this year, also, Sir Edward Belcher went up Wellington Channel to Northumberland Sound in 76° 52' ; he also surveyed the south side of North

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN.

Cornwall, Belcher Channel, and portions of North Devon. M'ClintOck examined Prince Patrick Island,, while Commanders Richards, Sherard Osborn, and others, explored the northern shores of Melville* Bathurst, and Cornwallis Islands. In 1851 and 1852 Captain Collinson sailed through Behring’s Strait, through Dolphin and Union Strait, to Victoria Land, and proceeded in sledge to Gateshead Island, thusoverlapping the furthest point reached by Sir John Franklin. In 1851 Dr. Rae made a more minute examination of Boothia Felix, fully established the fact that King William’s Island was an island, and found numerous relics belonging to Sir John Franklin’s crews at the same time that he collected the reports of the natives as to their fate, and fairly earned the Government reward of £10,000.