Garments for girls

Preface

So far sewing has not received the attention which it should in the school curriculum, and yet no other subject helps more to cultivate thrift, order, and economy. With the introduction of the straight line drafting, one finds that since 1886 the teaching of sewing, cutting, and garment making has found an equal place with academic studies in most of the girls' schools in European countries. The value of this teaching on the economic, social, and moral conditions of these countries has been well recognized.

In addition it will offer an opportunity for close correlation with other subjects in the school curriculum, such as drawing, arithmetic, English, etc. It enables the instructor to give more class instruction than has heretofore been possible in the teaching of sewing.

The subject matter includes the sewing, the cutting, and the making of the most necessary garments in any girl's wardrobe.

Each lesson is a complete unit. In the selection of the work care has been taken to make

ix

X PREFACE

sure that the lesson of one day reviews that of the previous day and prepares for the one in advance. To acquire skill, repetition is necessary. This has been kept in mind and the writer has endeavored to make the repetition less tiresome and more profitable by giving it variety. Each lesson is followed by such questions as will create thought and discussion on the part of the members of the class, and also will give suggestions to the teacher.

Special attention has been given to the introduction of all possible short cuts in the construction of garments, without sacrificing the standards of work. Only such garments as are used in the trade at the present time are presented in this text.

Every proljlem and garment described has been fully worked out in the vocational schools in Wisconsin under the personal direction of the writer.

The aim of the text is to inspire a love for the work. Long experience has proved that a growing interest in handiwork can be developed in almost every girl, provided that the efforts of the student are rewarded with adequate results.

The aid rendered in the organization and preparation of this text by Dean H. L. Russell

PREFACE xi

of the University of Wisconsin is gratefully acknowledged by the author.

C. L. S.

University of Wisconsin, Madison, July, 1918.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I Application of Hand and Machine

Sewing 3

Foreword

Until recent years the art of cutting women's and children's garments without the aid of commercial patterns has, in this country, been known only to dressmakers and tailors. It is possible, however, for any one to master the definite yet simple underlying principles which the system of drafting here presents and thus be able to make in a very short time a perfect fitting skirt and waist pattern. These patterns may be readily used as a base upon which all the patterns needed for other garments can be developed. This method originated with Mme. A. Guerre and is extensively used in the public schools of France. Through its use, the expense and wastefulness of commercial patterns may be eliminated.

The method is based on geometric principles and is the result of years of careful and patient observations both in the class room and in practice in the home. It is clear, precise, and leaves nothing to hazard.

Chapter I Application Of Hand And Machine Sewing

In the sewing outfit illustrated here, all the stitches and many of the seams with which pupils are already familiar are reviewed.

^'A place for everything and everything in its place'' is demonstrated here.

Fig. 1. — Sewing Outfit

A, Sewing bag; B, spool holder with scissors and thimble; C, needle book; D, pin cushion

4 GARMENTS FOK GIRLS

This sewing outfit includes:

1. Sewing bag.

2. Needlebook.

3. Spool holder with a place for scissors, thimble, stiletto, bodkin, emery bag, etc.

4. Pincushion.

To make the outfit 2/3 of a yard of 36'' material is required.

Sewing Bag

B:

Fold

IT in n

/6\ xl -^

Fig. 2. — Sewing Outfit

I, Sewing bag; II, bottom of sewing bag, with divisons marked; III, needle book: IV, spool holder; V, top part of spool holder; VI, pin cushion.

A, Turned hem; B, casing; C, hem; D, folded over part and divisions for pockets.

1 piece of material 14" by 36", 2 pieces of material 5" by 5", 2 pieces of cardboard 4" by 4" in diameter, 2 yards of cord or ribbon, 1 spool of cotton or silk thread, 1 skein of embroidery cotton, sewing needle No. 9, bodkin, fine steel pins.

To Make the Bag

1. Cut a piece of material 14" by 36".

2. If there is a selvage on the sides turn the material only once ; if there is a cut edge, turn the material l^" and fold this over 14". The raw edge may extend a little beyond the turned edge.

3. Join together with an overhanding seam.

4. Press the seam open and cut away the raw edges, if any, from under the turn.

5. Turn, pin or baste a V^" hem on the lower cut end of the material and stitch this by machine, or finish with either a hemming or a fancy stitch.

6. Fold over 1%'' for the upper hem ; crease this well.

7. Put in a basting thread 1" below the folded edge.

8. Leave %" space below the basting or IV2" from the folded edge of tne hem.

9. Measure 1^2^ down from the top. Turn the material wrong side out and baste down.

10. Divide the bag into halves with colored thread, then into four, and then into eight parts.

11. Stitch by machine or work over these divisions with a running or fancy stitch, to form the inside pockets.

12. Gather by machine, or run two rows of very fine stitches %'' apart at the lowest edge.

13. For the bottom, cut two round pieces of cardboard 4" by 4'' in diameter. Cut the material V larger than the cardboard and make a fine running stitch around the edge.

14. Draw the thread up a little and insert the cardboard; then draw the thread so that the material fits over the cardboard tightly and smoothly, holding it in place by criss-crossing several threads.

15. Make both the bottom pieces in the same way and join or baste them together.

16. Divide the bottom edge into eight sections with colored thread.

17. Pin the sections of the bottom to the sections of the bag; draw up these threads and overhand the top to the bottom.

18. Take out a few stitches in the casing of the hem of the seam and opposite this make an eyelet. Two cords should be used. These should be drawn through in opposite directions. (See Fig. 1 A, Fig. 2 I, VI.)

1. Cut the bag.

2. JMake a i/4" turn along the cut edge. Crease or pull a thread.

3. For the hem and the casing measure ll^'' from the turned edge.

4. For the casing measure 1" from the turned edge. Crease or pull a thread.

5. Overhand the selvages together.

6. Pin the hem down and run one shirring thread for the casing.

7. Make the hem.

8. Make a V2" hem on the other side of the bag. Hem this by hand or stitch it by machine.

9. Measure 5" from this hem for the pockets. Crease this firmly or draw a thread.

10. Divide the bag into eight parts. Mark these divisions with a colored thread.

11. Run two gathering threads %" apart very close to the bottom edge. These gathering threads may be put in by machine.

12. Prepare the two parts for the bottom of the bag.

13. Divide each part into eight sections. Where the parts are divided into sections sew them together with an overhand stitch.

14. Pin the sections of the bag to the sections of the bottom.

15. Draw up the gathering thread of the bag to fit the bottom of the bag.

16. Sew the upper part of the bag to the bottom with an overhand stitch.

17. Make a running or a fancy stitch over the divisions in the bag, or stitch these by machine.

18. Make two cords for the bag.

19. Run the cords in the casing of the bag.

20. Finish the cords with a knot or tassel.

1. What material has been used for making the bag?

2. What other material could be used ?

3. Name the different kinds of bags and their uses.

4. What material is used in the different types ?

5. What bags ^re especially used at the present time ? Why ?

6. What stitches were used in the making of the bag?

7. What seams were used in the making of the bag?

Needle Book

2 pieces of cardboard 3'' by 5", 2 pieces of cloth 5'' by 7'% 1 piece of cloth 3'' by 7", 2 pieces of white cotton flannel 3" by 5", thread, needle, and pins as for the sewing bag.

Cut through the center two pieces of cardboard 3'' by 5'', to secure four pieces 3" by 2i/2''-

Cut two pieces of covering 5'' by 7".

Lay the material over one of these cardboard pieces, being careful to have the warp and the woof at right angles. Turn the edges over, miter the corners, and hold the material in place with pins. Then baste the corners and hold the edges down by criss-crossing threads from side to side.

Repeat this process on the other cardboard, leaving i/^/' space in the center.

Before applying the inside piece, take a 3'' by 7'' piece, turn the raw edge over, and baste this to the middle. Fold the edges over the cardboard, pin both the covers together, and join them with an overhand stitch. Hold the centers in place with 2 rows of running stitches %" apart.

Cut 2 pieces of white flannel 3" by 5"; pink the edges or finish these with a blanket stitch and fasten the pieces to the cover. (See Fig. 1 C, Fig. 2 III.)

Spool Holder

6 pieces of cardboard 5'' long, 1'' wide at the top and 1%'' wide at the bottom;

6 pieces of material 7" by 3^'', 1 piece of cardboard 3'' by 1%'', 1 piece of cardboard 1" by 2'', 1 piece of material 5" by 2i/o", 1 piece of material 2'' by 3'% needles and thread as for previous articles, and 5 spools of thread of various numbers to put in the holder.

To make the spool holder, cut six pieces of material 7'' by 'Sy^', and cover the six cardboards by following the directions given for the needle book. The middle piece has an additional pocket on the top to hold the scissors. This is covered on the piece of cardboard 3'' long V wide at the bottom and 1%'' wide at the top. The top is cut to a point.

Pin each top piece to the bottom one and then join the three pieces together with an overhand stitch, a cross-stitch, or any other fancy stitch.

Cover a piece of cardboard 1" wide by 2'' long with the same material and fasten it to the upper corner.

A number of spools of cotton and silk thread are laced to the holder. The spaces between the lacing on the top cover may be used as holders for the glove darner, stiletto, bodkin, pencil, etc. (See Fig. 1 B, Fig. 2 IV, V.)

HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 11 Pin Cushion

2 pieces of material 3%'' in diameter, bran, sawdust, or vegetable hair for filling, needles and thread as for previous articles.

If the material used is not strong, line it with white muslin. Be careful to see that the warp and woof of both the outer and the inner material run in the same direction.

Run a basting thread up and down, and from side to side to divide the circular pieces into four equal sections.

Join the parts on the wrong side with a combination stitch, leaving an opening of 1%''. Baste the raw edge down all around the opening.

Press the seam open and turn the cushion right side out. Fill it with curled or vegetable hair, sawdust, or bran.

After the cushion is well filled, overhand the opening.

Make a fancy stitch over the seam.

With a strong thread or embroidery cotton, divide the cushion into eight parts. Draw up the dividing threads so that the cushion looks like a pumpkin. (See Fig. 1 D, Fig. 2 II.)

Holder and Cover

Holders are used in every food class. There should be at least two sets for each student : A set consists of two. A holder may be made of three thicknesses of outing flannel or of any remnants which may be on hand. Very often the holder is slipped into a cover. (See Figs. 3 and 4.)

Fig. 3. — Holder

Three thicknesses of material, 5')4" square, No. 70 white thread for machine stitching, 1 spool of coarse soft crochet cotton, No. 6 crewel needle, a piece of muslin 13" by 6'' for the cover, % of a yard of tape, or instead of the tape a strip of cloth 1%'' wide and % yard long.

The holder is a short problem and affords the

teacher a good opportunity for testing the skill

of new students.

It may serve as a first problem for machine

stitching. The short raw edges afford a good

opportunity for a review of the blanket stitch

and the buttonhole stitch.

Making the Holder

1. Cut 3 or 4 pieces of material 5%" by 51/2'' for each holder.

2. Baste or pin these together carefully.

3. Stitch 2 or 3 rows evenly all around the 4 sides about 14'' apart. Be careful to make good square corners and to have a perfect tension.

4. Finish two of the raw edges with a buttonhole stitch.

5. Finish the other two edges with a blanket stitch. Use coarse soft crochet or embroidery cotton. The stitches may be %" apart and 3/16'' deep.

Cover Cut a piece of muslin 13" long and 6'' wide.

Making the Cover

1. On each short end, crease a %" hem firmly and stitch it by machine.

2. Fold the holder crosswise through the center and mark this center well with a crease.

3. From each side of the center, measure over 5%'' and mark this point with a pin.

4. Unfold the holder and place each marked end directly over the line which marks the middle of the holder. The hems will slightly overlap. (See Fig. 4 II.)

5. Cut a piece of tape Y/' or W wide and 27'' long and stitch this securely to one corner of the holder. If tape cannot be obtained readily, it may be made out of strips of cloth. The tape may be made of double material or a small hem may be made on each side. (Fig. 4 III.)

6. Stitch the holder together with a plain seam %" below each cut edge.

7. Open each seam by pressing it between the thumb and the forefinger.

8. Turn the cover inside out. Pull out each corner with a pin. Crease the seams very flat.

9. Press the cover and the holder.

10. Make in the end of the tape a buttonhole

Fig. 4. — Method of Cutting Holdee and Cover

I, Cover cut; II, wrong side of folded cover; ID, right side of folded cover; IV, holder to fit the button which is sewed on the band of the cooking apron.

1. Cut the material.

2. Fold the hem.

3. Stitch the hem.

4. Fold the cover to make a square with the flaps inside.

5. Make the tape.

6. Sew on the tape.

7. Stitch the raw edge.

8. Open the seam.

9. Turn inside out.

10. Crease and press.

11. Make a buttonhole in the end of the tape.

1. What are holders used for?

2. Why do we make covers for the holders?

3. What material may be used for the holders?

4. What material may be used for the covers?

5. What stitches do you use around the edges of the holders?

6. Name some other places where these stitches are used?

7. What seams do you use in the covers ?

8. Enumerate the steps you have taken to make the covers.

CHAPTEE II

Before beginning to make any kind of garment it is necessary to analyze it and consider :

1. The required measurements.

2. The different parts of which it is composed.

3. Suitable material with regard to (a) wearing qualities, (b) advantage of cutting, (c) expenditure, (d) ease of laundering, (e) ease of repairing or making over.

4. The preparation of the material for drafting and cutting.

5. The drafting of the pattern.

6. The laying of the pattern on the material.

7. The cutting out.

8. The construction of the garment.

9. The trimming.

10. The pressing.

11. The cost.

12. The comparison of the finished garment with similar ready-made garments as to quality of materia], workmanship, price, fit, and general appearance.

Cutting and Making of Garments

General Rule for the Construction of Garments

Under garment construction is included the making of a suitable garment for an individual.

This very important part of needlework includes the study and analysis of the garment to be made :

1. The taking of measurements.

2. The drafting of the pattern.

3. The cutting of the garment according to the pattern.

4. The joining of the different parts.

5. The fitting and necessary alterations.

6. The sewing and finishing of the garment.

7. The application of trimmings, if these are used.

8. The pressing.

Taking of Measurements

For the construction of any garment, no matter how simple, certain definite measurements are necessary. The taking of measurements is a very important procedure, because the fit and the elegance of the garment depend wholly upon the accuracy with which these measurements are taken. For loose, flowing garments, comparatively few measurements are required. For tight-fitting garments, more measurements are necessary, because of the great accuracy with which each part must be adjusted. A

Figs. 5 and 6.

Measurements:

-Taking Measurements

Waist Measurements: 1, Length of back; 2, width across back ; 3, bust measure ; 4, underarm seam; 5, width across chest; 6, length of front; 7, waist measure; 8, neck measure; 9, length of sleeve.

Skirt Measurements: 1, Waist measure; a, hip measure taken 7" below the waist line; b, front length; c, side length; d, back length.

close-fitting waist always requires more measurements than a skirt. Measurements for a tight-fitting waist should always be taken over a corset cover. A waist is often ill-fitting, and if the measurements are taken over it, they are apt to be misleading. The measurements necessary for each garment will be given in each chapter, but the general principles give directions as to what measurements should be taken.

DifTerence of various commercial patterns and drafted patterns A. Drafted pattern. B. Commercial pattern.

Braffwff and Placing of Patterns

The student is shown how to draft patterns for herself and thus be relieved from the expense of purchasing commercial patterns for the various garments hereinafter described. The pattern of many of the garments illustrated in this text are drafted directly on the cloth. This saves a great deal of time and i)aper. The cost of the commercial patterns used for the garments described in this work, figuring each at 15 cents, would be approximately $2.

If the pattern is drafted on paper, cut out the pattern very carefully on the traced lines and cut just as many parts as are required to make the cloth garment. Mark each piece with its full name on the right side. Cutting all of the pieces and marking them on the right side will result in economical use of cloth and aid in avoiding mistakes which are likely to occur, especially if the material has a nap or a right and a wrong side.

The material must be unfolded and stretched evenly on a large table. Fasten the material with thumb tacks, keeping the warp and the woof at right angles.

If the material is not even, it is well to pull the short corner. There is no definite rule for placing the patterns on the cloth. Place all the large pieces first and as economically as possible. Place the smaller pieces next. Be careful to keep in mind the right and the wrong side, the up and down, the stripes, the plaids, etc. The largest pieces should always be cut first. They should be placed with the widest part near the cut end of the cloth.

If a two or three piece suit is required, be sure to place all the parts of the pattern on the cloth before beginning to cut them out. This may save a great do^l of trouble and inconvenience later on. The parts of the pattern should be placed on the material with the construction lines running in the same direction as the warp and the woof. The length of the garment ordinarily follows the length of the selvage.

Cutting the Material

The cutting shears of By^" to 9'' should be well sharpened. Cut with an even long stroke to the end of the si i ears to avoid notches in the cloth. As patterns are drafted according to the measurements taken, there will be no allowance for seams or fullness. After the parts of the pattern are pinned exactly and securely to the material, trace all around them with a tracing wheel, tailors' chalk, or tailors' basting thread. Which of these is used will depend upon the material. Then cut the goods, allowing for seams, hems, and fullness according to the garment and the cloth.

For ordinary seams allow %'' to %"; for hems allow 2'' or 3" to 4" according to the garment. If the garment laps in the front or in the back, care must be taken to make allowance for this lapping; otherwise it will be too tight.

Joining of the Different Parts

Join the different parts of the garment either with pins or with basting thread. Be careful that all the corresponding parts meet accurately, and also that the connecting points meet accurately.

Fitting

When all the parts of a garment are pinned or basted together, it is ready for fitting. This should be done in order to discover any mistakes which may have been made. Mistakes do not always occur in the cutting, but they often occur through careless joining of the different parts.

In fitting, the garment is ordinarily tried on with the wrong side out. The seam projection on the wrong side makes fitting easier. Persons who have one side different from the other should always be fitted with the right side of the garment out. Both sides of the garment must then be adjusted. But for a person regularly built, only one side, the right side, is fitted.

Changes Made in Fitting

Waist too large: If the waist of a dress or apron is too large in the front or back, take in the surplus in the underarm seam. If it is too narrow, let out the underarm seam.

Front and back of the waist too long : If the waist is too long, take it up on the shoulder seam ; if it is too short, let it out on the shoulder seam. If the waist is too high and narrow at the neck, notch it carefully all around. If a high neck is desired, take a straight piece of cloth and place this around the neck like a collar and mark it with pins or basting thread just below this line. Then notch carefully within 1/16'' of this line. If the neck is too large, a condition which should be guarded against as much as possible, take up the back and the shoulder seams. If the armseye is too large, a condition which, like the neck, should be carefully avoided, take in the shoulder and the underarm seams. If the armseye is too small, notch it and cut it out carefully, especially around the lower curve of the armseye.

Skirts can, according to the needs, be changed from top to bottom. Sleeves, if too long, are taken in at both the top and the bottom in order to keep the elbow in its proper relative position. Many other mistakes may occur. It would be difficult to mention all of them. A little practice will enable any student not only to see mistakes, but also to correct them.

Alterations

After the fitting, the alterations are marked with a tracing wheel, basting thread, or tailors' chalk. The seam of the garment is then opened and placed on the opposite corresponding side. This side is then also marked. Great care must be taken to preserve the symmetry of the garment. It is advisable to fit an altered garment a second time before the seams are stitched and finished, to make sure that every part is correct.

Sewing

No definite rule can be given for the sewing and finishing of garments, as seams and finishings depend on the type of the garment and the material used. Regularity of both seams and stitches, whether done by hand or machine, careful sewing of fastenings, good buttonholes, a neat and clean appearance, are essential to the construction of any garment.

Pressing

All pressing should be done, if possible, on the wrong side, but this is especially desirable on colored cotton cloth, wool, or silk. A bottle with a sprinkler top or a bowl of water and a sponge are convenient for pressing cotton garments. A woolen garment should be pressed on the wrong side, or if it must be pressed on the right side, a heavy piece of ticking should be put over the material to prevent it from becoming glossy. If pressed on the wrong side, a piece of cheesecloth dipped in water and wrung out well should be used.

Chapter III

A sewing apron should be worn during the sewing class. It not only protects the dress but the pockets are convenient for holding the necessary tools and materials during the work. One pocket should be used for the handkerchief only; the other for such tools and materials as may be used during the work.

Fig. 8. — Sewing Apron 27

Suitable Material

Materials such as flaxon, dimity, lawn, muslin, cambric, percale, chambray, or any other material may be used. Material 27'' wide works up to better advantage than any other width.

A C

n — v

<5

C3

ft: to

in

ED

CO

Pockets

CO

27"

Fig. 9

The w^aist measure — the band may be 2'' or 4" smaller than the waist measure, since the strings are added.

The leng-th^this should be taken when the person is standing. Measure the length from the waist to the finger tips. This will give the length needed for the apron.

By standard measurements is meant those measurements which experience has proved are used for the average person.

Length— 18''.

To make this apron use % of a yard of cross-barred material 27" wide. No. 90 white thread for machine stitching.

No. 9 '^between" needles for hand sewing.

Cutting

1. Measure 7" from the selvage on the width of the material and draw a thread. (See Fig.

2. Cut off this piece, and use it for the band and the strings. Lay it aside until the body of the apron is finished.

1. Take the body of the apron, which is a piece 27" by 20'', and on the width (the narrower side) fold a hem which, when finished, is %" deep.

2. Crease this well. Pin or baste it down. In loosely woven materials, especially in cross-barred dimity, threads pull very easily. The pulling of a thread assures an even hem.

3. Stitch this hem by machine, close to the turned-in edge.

Pockets

1. From each end of the hem measure 8" along the selvage and 8" along the opposite side. Draw a thread. This indicates the depth of the pocket.

2. Fold this over on the apron so that the hem is on the inside, and crease the fold well.

3. Divide this into two or three equal sections. Put pins at these dividing points. By means of the dull-edged scissors indicate the lines which are to be stitched.

4. Stitch the dividing line by machine. On each divided line, make two rows of stitching %" apart. Start from the bottom of the pocket.

Sides of the Apron

1. Baste each side of the pocket to the side of the apron. Baste with fine thread and very close to the edge.

2. Baste a %'' hem on each side of the apron and stitch it by maclnne.

Gathering the Apron for the Band

1. Find the middle of the apron and mark this with a basting thread of a contrasting color.

2. Make 2 rows of gathering stitches by machine i/i'' apart. To gather the material by machine, loosen either the top or the lower tension and adjust the machine to the longest possible stitch. The thread which lies the straightest on the material will be pulled up for the gathers.

Preparing the Band

1. Take the piece of the apron which was laid aside and cut off a strip 3" wide for the band.

2. Make a %'' turn on all four edges and crease it well. If possible, press it with a flatiron.

3. Fold the band crosswise and find the center. This will be the center of the front. Mark this with a contrasting thread. Measure 7'' from each side of the center front and mark this also with a contrasting thread.

Putting the Band on the Apron ■

1. Pin the right side and the center front of the band to the wrong side and the center front of the apron.