Faxon's illustrated hand-book of summer travel, to the lakes, springs and mountains of New England and New York

Front matter

THE UNIVERSITY

OF ILLINOIS

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Contents

Columbian Hotels ; The Holden and Waverlj Houses ; Strong’s Institute; Social Life in Saratoga; Schroon Lake ; The Route to Lake George.

CHAPTER V. .

Lake George and its Beauties. — The Fort William Henry Hotel; Trip down the Lake; History of Lake George ; Ticonderoga.

CHAPTER I. Steamboat Routes to Saratoga

HE objective point of our journeying-s for the present being Saratoga, we will first show how a very pleasant trip thither may be made principally by steamer, with more or less railroad worked in by way of connections, as may be desired. And in opening the consideration of this subject, several popular, estimable and every way first-class routes intrude themselves, so to speak, upon our notice, and we shall treat them, one at a time as they deserve. But first, whichever route be chosen, we will presume the tourist understands his business, has procured his tickets and laid out his course beforehand, and has not as some foolish virgins do, left all till arrival at the railway station, a few minutes before train-time. Thus in place

I of a nearly distracted and thoroughly irritated man, hurlling questions at the head of a busy and preoccupied ticketseller or a hurrying and impatient porter, while his family (the traveller’s, not the porter’s) stand around in anxiety and despair, we shall have the pleasing spectacle of a complacent and amiable gentleman, leading a well ordered and joyous procession of his family into the right car, at the right time and bound in the right direction ; with ample leisure for the purchase of the morning papers and the selection of seats on the shady side of the car, or a desirable section in the ‘‘drawing room ” if preferred. This much premised, we will proceed to speak of

The Stonington Route to Wew York,

whence we will take the Hudson river boats to Albany, and the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad thence to the Springs. The agency in Boston of this line is at 228 Washington street, where courteous gentlemen will be happy to afford any necessary information and to sell tickets for any desirable excursion taking in this route. From Boston our course is over the Boston and Providence Railroad, one of the bestmanaged and most comfortable roads to ride over, in the country. The station is on Park Square, only a few steps from the Common and the Public Garden, and is one of the largest and finest railway depots in New England. The magnificent train house, a huge Gothic arch, accommodates a dozen trains at once, without confusion or inconvenience, while the waiting rooms, offices, etc., in the head-house fronting on the Square, are magnificent in their dimensions, furnishings and conveniences. A lofty clock-tower surmounts the head-house and adds beauty and lightness to the outward appearance of the structure. Taking seats on the right hand side of the cars if it be a hot and sunny day, we are whirled out of the station, across the Back Bay, stopping for one instant at the crossing of the Boston and Albany, and then a delightful ride begins through the beautiful western suburbs of Boston. The several neat and convenient stations in the newly annexed wards of the city are passed, and then come Hyde Park, Readville and Canton (14 miles from Boston, and the seat of one of Eliot’s Christian-Indian settlements), where the railroad traverses a viaduct of solid granite 63 feet high and 600 feet long, and whence, seated in the cars, we overlook the roofs of the village.

Here the Stoughton Branch, four miles long, leaves the main road and runs southeasterly to Stoughton forming a connection with the Old Colony. Blue Hill, an eminence over 600 feet high, commands a fine view of the city which we have just left, the ocean dotted with snowy sails and the whole surrounding country. Next come Sharon and Foxboro, noted for their fine hills, their manufacture of straw-goods and their fine farms. Mansfield, 22 miles from Boston, is the next place, and here we make our first stop, taking on board probably, a number of passengers who have come down from Fitchburg, Clinton, Lowell or South Framingham “and way stations” via the Mansfield and Framingham Railroad, which here crosses our track on its way to Taunton and New Bedford, and which will hereafter be described. The junction here of these two important lines has made Mansfield quite a busy, thriving railroad centre, though there is little else of interest about the place. Passing West Mansfield “on the fly” we are soon whizzing through Attleborough, on a high embankment, giving us a view of the busy village, with its factories lighted up, if it be a dark evening, and their hundreds of windows gleaming through the darkness like fire-flies. The principal industries — indeed almost the universal manufacture, is that of jewelry. The tradition used to be that Attleboro jewelry could be procured for fifty cents a peck, and that it was dear at that, but of late the manufacturers have copied costly gold jewelry with such accuracy and good taste, and have so thoroughly plated their goods that their appearance can be hardly distinguished from the original, and they will wear for a number of years. Dodgeville and Hebronville, manufacturing villages, are rapidly left behind, and then we pass through Pawtucket, 39 miles from Boston, the first town in Rhode Island, on a high embankment, with quite a sharp curve, and have a fine view of the many large and busy manufactories for which the place is famous. Here are the Pawtucket tack works, turning out some 300 or 400 millions annually, the Dunnell manufacturing company’s thirty-six factories, where some 20 million yards of calico are yearly printed, the thread and spool factories, the steam fire engine works and many other industries. Pawtucket has its historical interest, also, being the spot where in 1676 Captain Pierce with 70 men were massacred by the Indians in the bloody “King Philip’s war.” From Pawtucket we ride only five minutes or so until we draw up in the fine and spacious railway station at Providence, 434 miles from Boston.

Providence — Its History and Surroundings.

Probably every reader of this book is familiar with more or less of the history of this, the second city in size and wealth, of the Eastern States. “ The State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations,” as the olficial documents read, has had more good natured fun made of it than any other State in the Union, except perhaps Delaware, on account of its tiny dimensions and its two capitals, being, since the rejection of the absurd custom by Connecticut, the only State which indulges in such an expensive and needless luxury. Yet if wealth, industry and prosperity count for anything, Rhode Island is a great State, and as for patriotism and national pride, the 1680 Rhode Island soldiers who fell in the war for the Union sufficiently answer. Providence “is the State” to a greater degree, probably, than is true of the capital of any other Commonwealth, not merely by virtue of containing some 70,000 of the 220,000 entire population of the State, but bv virtue of its commerce, its manufactures, its educational institutions and the wealth and enterprise of its citizens. It is a beautiful city, most attractively located around the head

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of Narragansett Bay, which stretches southward to the ocean. The Providence river, which empties into the bay, expands into a cove, almost circular in form, and quite large in area, which lies to our right as we enter the station. This cove is surrounded by a broad walk, shaded by fine trees, amply lighted and protected by an iron railing, thus forming a favorite promenade in the Summer. The view across the cove in the evening, when all the twinkling lights are gleaming and their refiections flash from the water, is very pretty. The Seekonk river runs on the East side of the city, forming at its confluence with the Providence river a broad and commodious harbor. On the eastern side of the Seekonk, is East Providence, a pleasant suburb, through which the Providence, Warren and Bristol Railroad runs along the shore of the bay to Vue de L’Eau, and thence to Warren and Bristol. The city is very irregularly laid out, rivalling its ancient foe, Boston, in that respect, but its business streets and buildings are many of them very fine. The manufacture of steam engines and other machinery, silver ware, fire-arms, cigars, etc., foreign commerce and trade are the principal sources of the wealth of Providence. Alighting from the cars, we step out of the depot upon Exchange Place, where we see the fine soldiers’ monument, from the design of Randolph Rogers, and which was erected by the State. The base is of blue Westerly granite and the superstructure of bronze. Four statues seven feet high represent the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery and the Navy, and above them stands a figure of America, ten feet high, extending in one hand a wreath of immortelles for the fallen and in the other a sword and laurel wreath for the living. A short distance from the monument, towards the river, is the Custom House and Post-office, a massive granite building, and just across the river is the City Hall. The Arcade, a large, open hall, roofed with glass, on either side of which, on two stories, open retail stores of various descriptions, extends through from Weybosset to Westminster streets, in this immediate vicinity, and is one of the attractions usually

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shown to strangers. The Rhode Island Hospital, Brown University, the Athenaeum, the Rhode Island Historical Society’s Hall, the Dexter Asylum, the Butler Insane Hospital, the Friends’ Boarding School, and the State Prison are the principal public institutions, and there are many fine churches of various denominations.

Providence was founded in June, 1636, by Roger Williams, who had been exiled from the Massachusetts Bay Colony for heretical religious views, he being a Baptist. On his coming hither, he was drifting down the Seekonk river, when at a rock near the foot of Power street, which is still shown to visitors, he was hailed by some Indians with the cry “What cheer?” He landed, "end after a short confab with the savages, who were very friendly and amiable, he continued his course a few blocks further, under the India street bridge and around Fox street to the mouth of the Providence river, where he saw a good opening for a settlement, and accordingly settled. Since that day, Roger Williams and What Cheer have been the patron saints of Rhode Island, and nearly everything in Providence is named after one or the other. Roger Williams was a good man and he was the first to try the experiment of genuine and perfect religious liberty in this country. The consequence was that his little colony was soon filled up with all sorts of “damnable heretics,” Quakers, Baptists, Catholics and those of no particular faith, yet they managed to prosper, branch out and increase, living at peace with each other and with the Indians. It will be observed that there were good Indians in those days. The Narragansetts, as Roger Williams found them, were a simple, amiable race, and what is most wonderful for Indians, industrious, supplying most of their dusky brethren of other tribes with wampum, pipes and pottery. The only good Indians nowadays, are dead Indians.

The suburbs of Providence are very inviting to the Summer tourist. By the Providence, Warren and Bristol railroad, one may visit several watering places along the east shore of Narraganset Bay, or may settle for a time at Warren, the former

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home of Massasoit, or at Bristol, near which is Mount Hope, the dwelling place of Metacomet or King Philip, son of the great sachem, and the bitterest foe of the whites in the long war which ended with his death. By steamers from Providence one can take passage almost hourly down the Bay to Vue de L’Eau, Smith’s Palace, Silver Springs, Cedar Grove, Bullock’s Point, Naj^att Point; Rocky Point, the most celebrated shore resort and clambake manufactory in New England ; past Warwick, famous in old times as the seat of a colony of most remarkable heretics even for that age^ and as the birthplace of General Nathaniel Greene, of Revolutionary fame ; by Prudence, Hope, Patience and Despair Isfands, then down between Rhode and Conanicut Islands, and into the harbor of Newport. From Providence, a line of steamers runs to New York, the Hartford, Providence and Fishkill Railroad runs west to Hartford and Waterbury, the Providence and Worcester northw^est to Worcester, and the Stonington and Providence, by which we continue our route, and which forms part of the Shore Line, (all-rail) to New York, skirts along the west coast of Narraganset Bay and across a point of Washington County, across the line of Connecticut to Stonington at the easterly end of Long Island Sound.

Stonington and the Sound Voyage.

Leaving Providence we pass nearly south through the towns of Cranston (noted for its cotton-mills and for its Narragansett race-course), Warwick, previously described; Greenwich, the site of a Methodist seminary; Wickford, a sleepy, antique place, and Kingston (70 miles from Boston), the county seat, whence carriages convey passengers to Narragansett Pier, nine miles southeast, the youthful rival of Newport, with its cluster of hotels, its fii^e beach, its overlooking Heights, its morning bathing and afternoon croquet, and its drives to Narragansett Heights, the neighboring lakelets. Point Judith and other points of interest. This town of South

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Kingstown is the largest in Rhode Island, covering an area of 76 square miles ; it is noted as the birthplace of Commodore Perry and of Stuart the great painter, and for containing the great swamp in which was fought the decisive battle in the King Philip war. On a hill crowned with pines and cedars in the centre of this swamp are still to be seen the remains of the rude fort in which the desperate Narragansetts intrenched themselves and whence they were driven by the still more desperate colonists from Massachusetts and Connecticut.

Leaving behind Carolina, a manufacturing village, Richmond Switch and Niantic, we come to Westerly, which lies on both sides of the Pawcatuck river. Here is the dividing line between Connecticut and Rhode Island ; accordingly one half the village is in one State and the rest in the other. Another curious feature of Westerly is that nearly all the inhabitants are Seventh Day Baptists, so that on Saturday the visitor will find the manufactories and stores closed and the church bells ringing. On Sunday, everything assumes its week-day aspect. There are extensive fiannel and cotton mills here and the village has quite a picturesque appearance. There is one fine hotel here, the Dixon House, owned by and named after ex- Senator Dixon. From Westerly a little steamer runs twice daily down the river to Watch Hill, a favorite watering place on the Sound, or rather on the precipitous promontory which divides the Atlantic Ocean from the Sound. On the one side of this point the visitor can enjoy still-bathing; on the other surf-bathing, which in high winds is too high and strong for safety. Watch Hill is also accessible six times daily by boat from Stonington and once or twice daily by boats from Norwich and New London. There are seven fine hotels at Watch Hill, all on the summit of the Bluff, and a fine view of the Sound, Fisher’s and Block Islands, and the town of Stonington on the mainland just across the sheltered bay. The collision by which the steamer Metis was sunk off Watch Hill, in August, 1872, will be remembered for many years by residents and visitors. The deck of the vessel with most of the rescued passengers washed ashore on the point, and so did most of the bodies of the drowned. The proprietors and guests of the hotels were indefatigable in their efforts for the comfort of the rescued.

Stonington, 92 miles from Boston, is the next station, but we do not see anything of the quaint and sleepy old town, for we are switched off a mile or two short of the station, and sent down to the landing alongside which lies the steamer Rhode Island, Stonington or Narragansett, with steam up, ready to convey us to New York. These steamers of the Stonington line (especially the Rhode Island, the newest of the Sound boats and one of the most elegant afloat) are famous the country over for their speed, safety, comfort and luxury, and the convenient hours at which they start and arrive have always made this a favorite route with the public.

The Rhode Island — A Model Steamer and an Enchanting Sail.

The Rhode Island may be taken as a model Sound steamer, her size, elegance and varied conveniences being united with speed and safety, thus making up all the desirable qualities of a steam.boat. One novel and most agreeable feature is the location of the dining hall on the main deck, aft the space usually devoted to the Ladies Saloon. This dining hall is a spacious and luxurious apartment, fitted up tastily and looking out upon the water on both sides, thus ensuring a happy combination of light, fresh, pure air, and an everchanging scene npon the waters of the largest inland sea of America. The linen, silver, glass and service of this hall is rich, attractive, and, in beauty of finish, all that the most fastidious could hope or wish for. The dining room will seat 250 persons at one sitting. On warm afternoons, parties desiring it can dine off the spacious guards, a novelty in steamboat travel. There are 165 staterooms, each large and with lofty ceilings. Every room on the boat is lit with gas, and in each alcove is an electric bell, which communicates with the steward’s delO

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partment, which is a novelty on a Sound steamer. The rooms are richly furnished and fitted with every convenience. A Chickering grand piano graces the saloon which is sumptuously decorated, carpeted and frescoed, and is lighted by elegant bronze chandeliers. One of the noticeable features of this really magnificent steamer is the application of steam to her steering wheel, which reduces the chances of accident by collision to the merest minimum. A child can steer the Rhode Island, as far as strength is required. Under its present auspices the Stonington Steamboat Company has been in operation seven years, without missing a trip or losing a single life. It traverses what is called the inside route, thus avoiding the rough and uncertain passage around Point Judith, and its provisions for the comfort and pleasure of passengers are unsurpassed.

Embarking at about 9 o’clock we are soon steaming out into the Sound, with a view of the gleaming lights of the Watch Hill hotels on our left, and the blazing Fisher’s Island light ahead of us. Soon we turn to the eastward and lay our course up the Sound, with the beautiful hills and green fields of Connecticut on our right, and the low, flat, monotonous shores of Long Island in the distance on our left. After a substantial supper in the saloon below, if it be a moonlight night, we shall find our chief enjoyment of the trip in sitting out upon the forward deck, watching the lights on shore, the pasing sails that gleam ghostly white in the moonbeams for an instant and flit by like morning vapors ; the bold outlines of the eminences on the shore, or the islands along our course, while the gentlemen enjoy the acme of physical happiness in the whiffing of fragrant cigars, and the ladies, wrapped in fleecy nothings express their uncontrollable enthusiasm in positive declarations that “it’s just too lovely for anything.” Or, if the breeze be too strong, as Sound breezes even in .. Summer often are, we shall find in a seat upon the afterdeck, with the steamer’s wake churned to frothy whiteness by the paddlewheels stretching behind us like a path of silver in the white moonbeams, a fascination that we would not forego, and here for hours we shall find delighted voyagers drinking in the beauty of the scene with placid contentment. But romance fades before the drowsy god, and we shall doubtless succumb to the desire for sleep sometime before midnight. Then we can retire to our cosy staterooms fitted with electric bells, running water, gas and other comforts of a first class hotel, and on a luxurious bed rest as sweetly as if at home, being wakened in the morning, if we desire, in season to enjoy the sail through the East River and Hell Gate ; or if we prefer can slumber till the boat reaches her pier. No. 33 North River.

The Approach to New York.

The East River, so called, is simply the narrow strait by which the waters of the Sound communicate with New York Bay. The narrowest portion of this strait, filled with sunken ledges, projecting rocks and small islets, through which all the water is poured at every turn of the tide is known as Hell Gate, from its dangerous character in years past. Many vessels have been caught in its treacherous, boiling whirlpools and dashed upon its sunken rocks, to destruction. But the government engineers, by blasting out the submarine rocks have greatly changed the aspect of the place for the better and there is now little or no danger in navigating the river. Our entrance to the river is made where the Sound, suddenly narrowing, is almost cut off by the projection of Throgg’s Neck, from the shore of Westchester County on the north, and the almost coincident projection of Willett’s Point from Long Island on the south. Here the government has two strong fortifications commanding the passage of the river and the approach to the city from this direction. Soon we pass Flushing Bay, on the left, with the beautiful village of the same name at its head ; Randall’s Island, with its House of Refuge for young criminals ; Ward’s Island, with its Emigrant Hospital and Potter’s Field ; Hell Gate, with its swirling currents

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and rocky isles; Astoria and Ravenswood, pretty villages on the Long Island shore ; Blackwell’s Island, with its Lunatic Asylum, Workhouse, Almshouse, Penitentiary, Charity Hospital, Small-pox Hospital, and its neat little fortification, built by a crazy inmate named Maxey, who was impressed with the belief that this was the true point to defend the city. We now begin to realize our approach to the metropolis. The elegant villas and richly cultivated gardens on either side of the river begin to give place to foundries, ship-yards and other manufacturing establishments ; on our left we pass in succession Hunter’s Point, Greenpoint, Williamsburg (now part of Brooklyn), the Wallabout Bay, with the U. S. Navy Yard and the houses and spires of Brooklyn ; on our right flit past one after the other Jones’s Wood, the German festival garden, Bellevue Hospital, and then the solid squares of brick and mortar that go to make up the great city. Continuing down the East River, amid the swarm of ferryboats that dart out from the slips on either hand, by the forests of masts that line the wharves on both sides, we pass the huge and towering piers of the Brooklyn Suspension Bridge, turn to the right and are soon rounding the Battery. This small island on our left, covered with fortifications bristling with guns, and surmounted by a circular fort that looks as much like a cheese as anything, is Governor’s Island. That round, odd looking structure on our right, with a conical roof that looks like a big gasholder, is Castle Garden, once a fort, later the fashionable concert hall and ball-room of the city, where Jenny Lind, Parodi, Sontag and other old-time prime-donne made their most notable successes ; now the emigant depot of the city.

It was formerly isolated from the main land, and accessible only by a bridge, but among the improvements carried on by the Tammany ring, with Boss Tweed as its centre, was the extension and beautifying of the Battery, by which Castle Garden was included within its limits, the whole territory enclosed by a splendid granite sea-wall, the surface graded, turfed and laid out in walks, trees planted, lights set, and the whole made a most attractive pleasure park for the densely crowded district in its vicinity. “Give the devil his due” is an old proverb, and Boss Tweed and the Tammany ring have received so much just denunciation that they ought to have credit for this genuine improvement to the city. Looking directly north from the Battery extends Broadway, the great artery of Manhattan Island. We are now entering the North or Hudson river, and passing between New York city on the right, and Jersey city and Hoboken on the left. On both sides are the piers and docks of steamship lines, foreign and domestic, and all along the wharves are the proofs of the immense commerce of the city. The piers are numbered in regular order, beginning at the Battery, and as our Pier is No. 33, it is only a short time before we are “warping in” and soon we are landed at the foot of Jay street, a few steps from West street. As this is not a cyclopaedia nor a gazetteer, no description of New York city will be attempted ; indeed to most people it will be unnecessary. We will simply pursue our journey Saratogaward, proceeding by steamer up the Hudson, as described in Chapter II.

The Old Colony Route to Saratoga.

Another favorite route from Boston to New York, e7i route for Saratoga, is that via Old Colony Railroad to Fall River or Newport, thence by the steamer Bristol or Providence to New York, and thence up the Hudson, as described in next chapter. If we decide on this route, our first move will be to visit the office of the line in the venerable old building at the head of State street, formerly the seat of the assembled wisdom of the colony, known as the Old State House. Having purchased tickets and secured check for a first class stateroom, we repair to the Old Colony depot, corner of Kneeland and South streets, a few minutes before half past four in the afternoon, and are soon comfortably seated in the cars. We have an opportunity to admire the fine station, with its lofty rotunda, its elegant and luxuriously furnished waiting rooms, its immense arched train house, its courteous ticket sellers and other

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depot officials, its complete system of designating trains and their starting time, so that no one could possibly go astray, and the numerous conveniences which all travelers must appreciate, but which are not often found in such perfection as here. If we choose we can fancy ourselves English lords or something else as we whirl over the smooth rails, by taking to ourselves a compartment in the English coaches which are run on the steamboat trains, but if we here have a patriotic horror of “blasted Britishers” and their ways, we shall find the ordinary cars sufficiently comfortable for the best Yankee citizen. We move out of the depot, and out of the city proper almost simultaneously as we cross Fort Point Channel to South Boston, on a pile drawbridge, but though out of the old town of Boston, we are not to be outside of the limits of the present city of Boston for some time. Crossing the South Bay on a causeway and pile bridge, we enter the old town of Dorchester, now the Sixteenth Ward, Boston. We successively pass Crescent Avenue, Savin Hill, Harrison Square and Neponset stations, all in the Dorchester District, and all on the shores of Dorchester Bay, across which fine views of the harbor and islands are obtained. Then we cross the end of Milton (Atlantic Station) and enter the famous town of Quincy, famous as the home of the Adams family and the birthplace of Quincy granite. The three stations in this town are Wollaston Heights, Quincy and Quincy Adams, respectively 6-i, 8 and 82 miles from Boston.

The Quincy station is near the homestead of the Adams family. Then Braintree is passed, whence the South Shore division branches off to the eastward, passing through Weymouth, Hingham, Cohasset, Scituate and Mansfield to Duxbury, and thence to Plymouth by a short connecting branch, and we draw up for a moment at South Braintree, ii4 miles from Boston. Here is a general junction, as three divisions of the road branch off here, one via the Abingtons, Hanson, Halifax, Plympton and Kingston to Plymouth, with a branch diverging from South Abington to Bridgewater on the second or Cape Cod Division. This division taking South Braintree as its point of departure, passes through Holbrook, East Stoughton, Brockton, Bridgewater, Middleboro, (whence two branches lead to the westward, one to Weir Junction, near Taunton, the other via Myricks, where the New Bedford Railroad is crossed, to Somerset Junction, forming a connection with the third or Fall River and Newport Division, jet to be described, through South Middleboro, Tremont (connecting with the Fairhaven Branch Railroad to New Bedford), Wareham, Cohasset Narrows (hence still another branch runs south via Falmouth to Woods’ Hole, where the Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket steamer is taken). Sandwich, Barnstable, Yarmouth (where a little branch runs south to Hyannis Port, on the south side of the Cape, a watering place of some note), then along the sandy ridge known as Cape Cod, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, and Truro, to the extreme curving tip of the Cape, the fishing town of Provincetown, 120 miles from Boston. The third division is the one with which we have to do, and we take the most westerly course of the three from South Braintree. We pass through Holbrook, 14! miles from Boston, a “shoe town,” Stoughton, North Easton, Easton, and Raynham, in which latter place the first forge in America was set up by the Leonard brothers, in 1652, and soon enter the station at Taunton, 34 miles from Boston. This is a city of some 20,000 inhabitants, on the Taunton river, which furnishes the power for many manufactories, thus disproving the ancient libel that Taunton water was too weak to run down hill. Miss Elizabeth Pool, of Taunton in Somersetshire, England, founded and named this city in the early days of the colony, but it was only a pretty hamlet in 1810. Now, there are the immense Mason Locomotive Works, the Taunton Car Works, the various tack manufactories which turn out about the only kind of tax popular with the public, the Taunton Copper Works, several brick manufactories, foundries, cotton mills and an extensive Britannia-ware manufactory. The centre of i6