Narrative of a tour through Hawaii, or Owhyhee with remarks on the history, traditions, manners, customs, and language of the inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands

Front matter

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Preface

person, instead of the third. I have not felt it incumbent on me to confine myself to the mere contents of the document left in America; but have, in various parts, made large additions from my own private observations. .

The biographical accounts of various important persons, many descriptions of the superstitions, manners, customs, and traditions of the people, the nature of their government, and the remarks on their language, are taken from my own memoranda, which a knowledge of their language enabled me to make, during my daily intercourse with the natives for the space of two years,

I have occasionally illustrated my remarks by allusions to the Socicty Islands, where I spent six years in missionary occupations. I have invariably represented the natives as we found them, exhibiting freely the lights and shadows of their character, without cxaggeration; and can assure my readers, that it has been my constant aim to offer nothing, the accuracy of which may not be relied upon; and, in many descriptions, have rather diminished than enlarged the objects described.*

*In corroboration of which, I insert, from a recent American periodical publication, the following extract of a letter, written by Mr. L, Chamberlain, relative to the great volcano of Kirauea: which I had estimated at five and a half miles in circumference, and 700 or 800 feet deep.

“Mr. Goodrich and myself visited the voleano again, and, with a line, measured the upper edge of the crater, and found it to bo seven miles and a half in circumference. We then descended, and measured one side of the Iedge, and satisfied ourselves, that, at the depth of 500 or 600 feet, the circumference is at least five miles and a half. We did not get the exact depth of it, but judge it not less than one thousand feet. We had good opportunities for forming a judgment.”

PREFACE.

The drawings were sketched on the spot. The outline of the map is from Vancouver's survey, unaltered, except slightly in two places, viz, Kairua and Waiakea. The geographical divisions, &c. were inserted during the tour; and specimens brought to this country, of the lava, &c. described in the narrative, have been inspected by individuals of eminence in the study of mineralogy.

It is hoped, that in various points of view, the following narrative will be found interesting. It will introduce to the more accurate knowledge of our country a portion of the human race, with which they have been hitherto very imperfectly acquainted; and tend to remove some prejudices which may have existed respecting the supposed invincible ferocity of the Sandwich Islanders. It will prove that they are rapidly emerging from their former condition, and preparing to maintain a higher rank in the scale of nations. Above all, it will furnish a decisive and triumphant illustration of the direct tendency of Christian principles, and Christian institutions, to promote the true amelioration of mankind in all the relations of social life. Without depreciating the value of those efforts, which mere political philanthropists may employ for the interests of humanity; such facts as those presented to the world, in the recent history of the Society and Sandwich Islands, prove, that CHRISTIANITY ALONE supplies the most powerful motives, and the most effective machinery, for originating and accomplishing the processes of civilization. While the spiritual welfare and the eternal destinies of men are the primary objects of its solicitude, it provides for all their subordinate interests on true and permanent principles; and thus lays a solid foundation

PREFACE.

for personal happiness, domestic comfort, and national prosperity. These are the legitimate triumphs of the gospel; these are moral demonstrations of its efficiency and its origin; these are proofs, in perfect harmony with other illustrations of the fact, that “the foolishness of God is wiser than men, and the weakness of God is stronger than men;” and that “ godliness hath the promise of the life that now is, and of the life which is to come.”

The candid reader will pass over all the detects in the execution of the work, when assured, that every pretension, except to a simple narrative of facts, is disclaimed; that it was prepared amidst a variety of engagements, and under the pressure of severe domestic affliction; and thatthe last ten years of my life have been so much devoted to the study of the uncultivated languages of the Pacific, that when most of it was written, they were more familiar than my native tongue.

London, March 23, 1826,

Chap. I

Correctness of Captain Cook’s Narrative—Remarks onthe impressions produced by its perusal—Actual State of’ the People~Character of the Islands~Climate, Population, Natural Hite Tapers tance of their local Sttuation—Lstablishment of a Christian Mission among them—Friendship of the King towards Fo-« reiyners—Present from the British Government— Visit of the Deputation to the Sandwich I[slands—Motives of removing thither—Arrival of Missionarirs— Objects of the projected Tour of Hawaii—Remarks on the Orthography of native Words ..3

Chap. II

Voyage of part of the Missionaries to Kairua— Welcome from the Governor of Hawaii—A Breakfast Scene — Description of an extensive Cavern—Curious natural Phenomenon, occasioned by the Sea—Situation and Appearance of Kairua— Excursion to the Plantations—Christian Zeal of a Chief—Ruins of a Heiau —WNotice of Capiain Cook— Account of Mouna Huararai— Volcanic Phenomente..oseeseeoees eee eee eee eee eee eee ey)

CHAP. IIt.

Departure from Oahu--Occurrence off Ranai— Appearance of Lahaina — Keopuolani, Queen of the Islands—Native Dance —Missionary Labours — Buhenehene, a popular natire Game —Traditions respecting some of the principal Idols of Maui and the adjacent Islands—Voyage to Hawati— Visit to an aged English resident—Description of « Heiau—Native Dance At KGUIUG, cece cee er cere near cerscensenseeestesene yA

CONTENTS.

Chap. IV

Proposed Route—An ancient Fortress—Aid from the Governor of Hawaii—Anoiher Native Dance—Height of Mouna Huararai— Munner of preparing Bark for Native Cloth — Cultivation of the Cloth Plant—Methad of manufacturing and painting various hinds of Cloth—Conversation with the Governor — Departure Sram Kairua—Description of our Guide—Several Heiaus— Population of the Western Coast—Traets of rugged Lava—Scene of the Buttle which took place in consequence of the Abolition of Adolutry in 1819— Deseription of the Batile—Tomb of a celebrated Priest—Account of Captain Covk’s Death, and the LHonvurs rendered to his Remains —Eneouraging Missionary

Chap. V

Visit to the Spot where Captain Cook was killed—ITawatian Notions of @ Future State—Account of the Battle at Mokuohai—Death va Kauikeouli— Former Prevalence of War in the Sandwich

slands—Warriors—-Warlike Games—Methods of consulting the gods before determining on War—Human Sacrifices—Councils of War—Levying Armies ~ Encampments—Fortifications — Naval Fights -— Disposition of Forces — Weapons — War Dresses— Methods of Attack— War gods carried to Battle—Single Combats —Sacrificing the Slain—Treatment of the vanquished—Manner of concluding PeacesscessccssccccceecseccsnecseccensttlO

Chap. VI

Burying-pluce of the ancient Hawaiian Kings — Account of the Puhonua, or City of Refuge, at Honaunau— Population of this Part of the Coast--Advantages of Honaunau for a Missionary Station — Lodging at Keokea—Ancient Cataract of Lava, and irregular vaulted Avenie—Journey along the Shore —Mourning Ceremonies and Customs at the Death of the

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CHAP. VIL.

Singular Pillars of Lava—Scareity of Fresh Water—Division of fona — Appearance of the South-west Part of ihe Island— Keavaiti— Missionary Labours at Patini— Beautiful Spouting of Water through the Lava— Appearance of the Southern Extremity of Hawaii—Iniand Route to Kaura— Description of the Mountain Taro—A Congregation of Natives at Paapohatu—Valley of Waiohinu— Account of the Pahe, a native Game—Conversation respecting the Abolition of Idolatry, with the People at Kapauku—Superstitions connected with Kaverohea—Reception

CONTENTS.

Chap. VII

Makoa objects to visiting the Voleano—Account of ihe Defeat and Assassination of Keoua—Superstitions connected with the Pebbly Beach at Ninole.--ITuspitulity of the Natives—Methods of dressing the Turo-— Distant Indications of the Voleano at Kirauea —Visit to the Burning Chasm at Ponahohoa—Journey from Kapapala— Lodging in a Cavern—Reflection from the Voleano Di Nig libista vin iu tuee ne ren gs anaes fares teks ate lll

Chap. IX

Departure for the Voleano— Voleanie Sand—Superstitions of the Natives respecting the Ohelo-—Deseription of the great Voleano— Doals of Water—Banks of Sulphur—Appearance of the Voleano at Midnight—Traditions and Superstitions of the Natives connected with it—Names of the gods by whom they suppose it inhabited—The little Kirauea—Ancient Leiuu on the summit vf @ precipice—Mouna Roa — Probable Structure of the

Chap. X

Journey to Kearakomo— Description of the Dracena, or Ti Plant— Reported Lruption of Lava in Kapapala—Sabbath in Keara+ komo—Affectionate Reception of Mauae—Fragment of a Song on kis Birth — Conversation with the People =~ Marks of an Larthquake—Desecription of Kaimu—Manner of Launching and Landing Canoes at Kehena—Preaching— Visit to Kinao—Popular Superstitions respecting the Origin of Diseases, ..0...u604 423!

Chap. XI

Conversation with the Natives—Appearance of the Country in the Vicinity of Pualaa— Extinguished Volcano in the Valley of Kapoho—Description of the Horua, a native Game—Traditionary Story of a Contest between Pélé and Kahavari—Incidents on the Journey to Hiro—Description of Ora— Public Worship at Waiakea—Conversation with a Priestess of Pélé, the goddess of the Voleanoes—Opinion of the Natives respecting the permanent Residence of Missionaries at Waiakea— Description Of Native Houses. .cccscsvscccccsvceeceveccsnesesssed GUL

Chap. XII

Former Customs on Wairuku River—Affecting Instance of Infanticide—Extent of Infanticide; Motives to its Practice; humane Efforts of the Chiefs for preventing it— Account of the native Methods of curing Diseases — Tradition of ithe Origin of Medicine — Waiakea Bay — Conversation with Natives of the Marquesian Islands — Farewell Visit to Maaro — Voyage to Laupahoehoe — Description of a double Canoe — Native Hospitality cc csecacecscccesenccccctvcareseccaserese segue

CONTENTS.

Chap. XIII

Temple of Péé—Division of Hiro—Missionary Labours—Journey across the Hills to Towaihae—Description of Waipio Valley— Funeral Ceremonies amony the Natives —- Another Place’ of Hefuge — Notions of a Future State—Voyage to Waimanu— Swimming in the Suxf a populur Amusement — Value of the Kukui Tree—Interest manifested at thig Place in the Instruetions of the Missionaries—full of immense Alasses of Locks Halaua—Drinking Ava—Tdeas of the Natives, who have emo braced Christianity, respecting War-—Character of Tamchameha —Accuunt of the Tab crcecceccveesecsreenecesssgeg esBoe

Chap. XIV

Traditions connected with the Northern Part of Kohala—Methods of procuring Sandal Wood—Manufaciure uf Salt at Towaihae— Visit to Waimea—Asrent of Mouna-Kea—Arrival of Messrs, Bishop and Goodrich at Kairna—Erection of a Place of Worship—Obserrance of the Sabbath—Maritime Character of the People — Government of the Islands — Hereditary Rank ~ Tenure of Lunds—Rerenue and Lavs—Nereral of the Party embark for OdhitsccccerccceecscnnrcenaeetenenesenescdZ0