Dyeing and tissue-printing

Preface

'HIS work on dyeing and tissue-printing has been

X prepared with special reference to the needs of students preparing for the technological examinations of the City and Guilds Institute. It is of necessity brief,, and its object is more to exhibit the general principles of the arts in their practical working than to enter into all their almost endless minutice. An attempt has been made to give the leading features of each department of dyeing, as modified by the kind of fibre operated upon,, and by its condition, whether in the raw state as yarn^, or as cloth. The uses of the various colouring matters,, mordants, &c., are shown in practical examples, and special attention has been paid to the recently discovered artificial colours which have so remarkably extended, and at the same time simplified and rationalized the tinctorial arts.

As regards printing, the author has sought to describe the various styles, the accessory operations, and the machinery employed.

It is not for a moment presumed that the most careful study of this book will make any man a dyer or a printer. But it is hoped that the student will be able to obtain from it a general knowledge of the objects, the conditions, and the resources of the tinctorial arts, so that vi

PREFACE.

when taking part in actual work, whether on a merely experimental or a commercial scale, he may understand what he is doing, why he is doing it, and what are the pro- |)erties of the agents in his hands.

It is desirable that the student before taking up this book -should have some knowledge of the elements of chemistry. Theoretical reflections have been, however, avoided as much as possible.

The technical language of dye, print, and chemical works has been employed in preference to that of strictly ^scientific circles. These terms have in all cases been explained.

The weights and measures used in the receipts are those customary in England, viz., the avoirdupois standard for all larger quantities, and for very small weights Troy grains, of which 437^- = 1 oz. avoirdupois.

For liquid measures, quantities below a pint are often <5xpressed in fluid ounces, of which 20 = 1 pint. In dye-works, &c., measures frequently used are the gill, which in the manufacturing districts is -l pint, = 10 fluid ozs., and the noggin, s. pint, = 5 fluid ozs.

In some receipts the quantities of water, saline solutions, •extracts of dye-woods, &c., are measured by the pail or ^' burn," which may hold about 2 gallons. Smaller quantities are often measured by the " piggin," a small wooden measure, holding about li- pint. The pail (French sceau, •German eimer) and the piggin are not legal measures made exactly to one standard, nor are they in use always filled up to a certain line.

Specific gravity — a very important consideration for ■acids, dilutions of mordants, extracts of dye-wares, &c, — is expressed in this manual in Twaddell's scale, as commonly used in manufacturing establishments. On this scale the specific gravity of water = 0. It is readily converted into direct specific gravity by the following simple calculation. To convert Twaddell into direct specific gravity multiply by 5, considering the product as decimals, and add to it

PREFACE.

vii

1-000. Thns if a sample of oil of vitriol marks 168^ = Tw., we have —

168 5

•840 1-000

1-840 the direct specific gravity ».

On the other hand, if the strength of a liquid has been taken by direct specific gravity we find the corresponding^ degree Twaddell by subtracting 1*000, and dividing the^ remainder by 5.

Thus, if the direct specific gravity of a sample of muriatic acid be 1*160, then —

1-160 1-000

5)160

32^, the degree Twaddell.

Beaume's scale, persistently used on the Continent, cannot be recommended, as it bears no simple relation either to direct specific gravity or to Twaddell.

Por indicating degrees of heat the ordinary scale — Fahrenheit's — has been used. At the same time it must be confessed, that the Centigrade scale used in France^ which puts the freezing-point of water = 0, and the boiling-point = 100°, is much simpler.

To convert Centigrade into Fahrenheit, if the temperature be above the freezing-point of water (and lower temperatures do not occur in dyeing processes), multiply by 9^. divide the product by 5, and add 32 to the quotient.

To convert degrees of Fahrenheit above the freezing-point, subtract 32, multiply the remainder by 5, and dividethe product by 9.

PREFACE.

In German dyeing receipts the temperature is often expressed in degrees of Reaumur — freezing-point = 0, and boiling-point = 80.

To convert E/Caumur into Fahrenlieit, multiply by 9, divide by 4, and add 32 to the quotient.

To convert Fahrenheit into Reaumur, subtract 32, multiply the remainder by 4, and divide the product by 9.

Among the works which have been consulted in preparing this manual the principal are : —

Periodicals: "Chemical News," ''Chemical Review," " Textile Colourist " (Manchester), "Textile Colourist " (Philadelphia), "Bulletin de la Societe Industrielle de Mulhouse," " Bulletin de la Societe Industrielle de Rouen/' Moniteur Scientifique Quesneville," " Bulletin de la Societe 'Chimiquede Paris," " LeTextilde Lyon/' "Moniteur de la Teinture," " Teinturier Pratique," Dingler's " Polyteschniche Journal," Reimann's " Faerber Zeitung," "Deutsche Faerber Zeitung," " Leipziger Muster Zeitung," &c.

Independent Works : " Dyeing and Calico Printing," by Dr. F. Crace-Calvert ; "Handbook of Dyeing and Calico Printing," by W. Crookes ; M. D. Koeppelin on "Silk Printing;" "Dyeing, Printing, and Bleaching," by Michel de Vinant ; Articles on dyeing and printing in lire's " Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines ; " do. in Muspratt's "Dictionary of Chemistry;" J. W. Slater's "Manual of Colours and Dye Wares : " Smith's " Practical Dyer's Guide ; " Spon's " Encyclopaedia of Industrial Arts " (for bleaching) ; Moyret, " Traite de la Teinture des Soies ; " J. Persoz, " Traite de I'lmpression ; " E. C. Haserick, " Secrets of Dyeing Wool, Cotton, and Linen ;" J. Jocquet, "Woll und Seidendruckerei ; " F. Springmuhl, "Lexicon der Farbwaaren ; " C. 0']S"eill, " Calico Printing, Bleaching, and Dyeing ; " A. Spirk, " Praktisches Handbuch der Faerberei," &c., besides the specifications of patents and the instructions issued by the manufacturers of new colours.

W. C.

Contents

PAGE

Dyeing and Tissue Printing, General Introduction ... 1

General Instructions on Dyeing 82