Dressings and finishings for textile fabrics and their application; description of all the materials used in dressing textiles

Front matter

ND FIN!

EXTILE FABRICS

HEIR APPLICATION

Preface To The First Edition

Though well aware of the difficulties attending the production of a work relating to a branch of industry which has already reached a high stage of development, the author entered on his task with pleasure, being convinced of the existing necessity for such a work in connection with the preparation and application of dressings, or at any rate of a work in the form of the present one, which deals chiefly with the chemico-physical side of the matter.

From the outset there could not be any question of producing a work similar to that of Dr. Grothe, which treats principally of the mechanical side, and is unsurpassed in that respect ; nor did the author intend to imitate in any way the equally excellent work of Romen, his programme being restricted to dressing materials, in the narrow sense of the term, their properties, suitability, and preparation, points which had hitherto been treated in a scanty fashion; as also to give a series of dressing recipes, and briefly describe the application of the finished dressings.

In compiling the work, the whole literature of the subject has been gone through carefully, suitable material being utilised, and particular attention bestowed on the patents that have been taken out in recent years.

The finisher will find all the information he ran desire set forth in the concise form necessitated by the limitations of spare, so that the author ventures to hope that the hook will meet with an exclusively friendly reception. At the same time, he will he pleased to receive corrections where necessary, and to bear them duly in mind.

Preface To The Second Edition

Spurred by the favourable criticism with which the first edition of his work was received in the trade, the author, in preparing the second edition, has omitted everything that seemed out of date or superfluous, shortening passages that appeared needlessly diffuse, and added new matter, so that he feels justified in assuming that everything possible has been done, in revising the book, to make it practically a new work.

Preface To The Third Edition

The fact that a revised edition has been found necessary within a comparatively short time constitutes the best proof that the work itself has fulfilled practical requirements. In the revision, attention has been paid to recent improvements. It is true that there is no striking novelty to record, the finisher being accustomed to work with long known raw materials, which are rarely supplemented by new ones ; and the effects to be produced are based more on the mechanical treatment. Nevertheless the bunk, in its amplified form, will afford valuable assistance to every finisher, and repay consultation ; and the author hopes to gain additional friends by bringing his work up to date.

F. POLLEYN.

Chapter I Page

The Dressing Process and Materials for same

CHAPTER II Stiffenings and Glazes

Starch .

Potato Starch .

Maize Starch .

Rice Starch

Buckwheat Starch

Arrowroot

Tapioca

Sago

Artichoke Starch

Differentiating and Examining Starches

Estimating the Relative Value of Potato, Wheaten, and Maiz

e Starcl

L

for Stiffening, Glazing, etc.

The Gelatinisation Temperature of Starches .

Determining the Value of Starch for Dressing Purposes

Determination of the Moisture Content of Potato Starch 1

rom tin

Specific Gravity ....

Cloudy Water

Frothy Water

Malodorous Water

Dirty Scum

( 'onsistence in Boiling

Flour .

On the Covering Power of the Flour

On the Filling Property of the Flour

Protamol for Dressings and Sizes

CHAPTER III Adhesive Dressings

Gluten .

. 36

Protein Glue

Ai>he-i\ i. Dressings — [continued) Vegetable Glue.

Arbol Gum Apparatine

Vegetable Glue Dressing

Poacher's Vegetable Glue

Vegetable Glue containing Fat

Dextrin (British Gum)

Preparation of Dextrin

Gum, Gum Arabic

Feronia Gum .

Cherry Gum, Plum-Tree Gum

Testing Gum Arabic

Tragacanth

Vegetable Mucilage

Carragheen Moss

Iceland Moss .

Hai-Thao

Fleawort Seed .

Linseed.

Peru Gum

Ceylon Moss

Canary Grass Seed

Albumin

Casein .

Caseo-Gum

Gluten .

Glue

Starch Syrup, Potato Syrup

Colophony (Rosin)

CHAPTER IV Materials fob Soft Dressings Glycerine

Wax .

Paraffin Wax .

Stearine

Fats and Fatty Oils Soaps .

Softenings

: KGS FOB FlLLISt Alum .

Barium Chloride

CHAPTER V ami Loading .

76 76

7 G

Dressings fob Filling and Loading — ; (continued)

Barium Sulphate

Barium Carbonate

Bleaching-Powder

Lead Sulphate .

Gypsum

Calcium Chloride

Magnesium Chloride .

Sodium Sulphate, Glauber Salt

Magnesium Sulphate, Epsom Salt

Magnesium Carbonate .

Magnesia White

Magnesium Silicate

China Clay (Aluminium Silicate)

Zinc Chloride .

Alkali Silicates, Water-Glass .

l'AOB

CHAPTER VII Dyeing and Blueing Agents

Ultramarine Blue Paris Blue Indigocannine .

88 89

CHAPTER VIII Various Dressings Endosmiu Eau de Crystal] ( .'rystalltixe Lukon

Algin .

Paramentine .

Cream Softening Norgine Dressing Soaps .

Gum Tragasol .

Senegalin Monopol Soap .

Liquid Size for Dressing Bleached and Coloured Fa Li Vegetable Gum Dressing Gum Substitute S. Size .

Puntsehart's Vegetable Glue .

Vegetable Glue and P. Size .

Appliances fob the Preparation of Dressings

Starch Cooker .

Hampers Cooker Priifer's Starch Cooker Rushton's Size Boiler Sifting Machine

CHAPTER XII Recipes for Dressin - . Dressings for Linen and Cotton

Dressings for Shirtings.

Protamol Dressings ....

Chiffon Dressings ....

Dressing for " German Leather "

Dressings for Bleached and Printed Cottons .

Dressings for Light, Thin Shirtings .

Bielefeld Dressing (for Cotton-Linen Unions) .

Keern and Stenhouse's Dre-

Drill Dressing .....

- •• ning, Starching, and Lading Preparation for Fabrics

....

For Cotton Dimit}- ....

och Natural Finish for Bleached Smooth Calicoes Linen Finish .....

For Calicoes Made of Strong Yams

ottons .....

German I ....

.- for Coloured Cotton Trouserings Dressing for Shirtings or Shirt Calicoes

- for Coloured Jaconneta and Similar Fabrics , Bohemian Finish for Figured Cottons

Recipes foh Dbessings — {continued)

Dressing for Rough, Unbleached Calicoes

Jeannolles's Dressing for Black Goods

Alsatian Finish ....

Parisian Dull Finish for Plain Cottons

Scroopy Finish for Imitation Linens .

High Gloss Finish for Cottons .

Swiss Elastic Finish for Fine Cottons .

Bodice and Corset Twills

Dressings for Coloured Calicoes, Jaconnets

Glycerine Dressing for Drill

Dressings for Printed Cottons . .

Dressing for Coloured Bedding Materials

Puscher's Dressing

Gruner's Dressing for Point Net and Marly (Scotch Gauze)

Watered Finish for Coloured Calicoes .

English Watered Finish

French Lawn Finish ....

Brise, Organtine, or Elastic Finish

Dressing for Cotton Trouserings

Dressing for Cheap Cotton Trouserings

Velvet Finish .....

Whewell's Dressing ....

Dressing for Italian Cloth and Zanella.

Gum Dressing .....

Dressing for Rough Cottons (Inlets)

Wash-proof Dressing ....

Koeehlin's Dressing Recipe

Dressing for Lace ....

Rough Dressing for Cottons

Dressing for Muslins and other Fine Fabrics .

1 1 cim's Dressing Recipe

Curtain Dressings ....

Dressing for Printed Calicoes (Apron Stuffs, Unions, etc.)

Waterproof Dressing ....

Dressing for Raised Double Piques

Chaudefs Dressing Starch

Dressing for Dark Cottons

Dressing for Linings ....

Senegalin Dressings ....

Dressing for White Goods : Cheap ( 'retonnes Dressing for Holland ....

Raised Cord .....

Jaconnet Linings ....

Dressing with Ammonia Water Improving the Compactness and Fineness of Fabrics Paper Pulp as a Filling for Cotton Dressings . Parchmcnting Cotton ....

PAOB

133 133

CHAPTEB XIII

DBBS8IN6G FOB LlNKN-

Por WeUrBleached Linens

For Fine Holla ml

I'm Tali]. Linen and Damask .

Clarke's Dressing

Ducket and Mercer's Dressing.

Rawson and Hartley's Dressing

i loulthurst's Dressing .

Cooke's Dressing for White and Coloured Cottons

Finesse's Dressing

Thomson's Sizing Mixture

M'Kean and Gabbotfs Dressings

( 'rasse's Dressing

Chalirnin's Dressing

Calvert and Lowe's Dressing .

For Medium Finish

For Heavy Finish

For Very Heavy Finish

Damask Dressings

For Crash Linens

For Very Glossy Linens

Dressings for Black Cottons

Black Glace Dressings .

Black Dressings for Half-A\*oollens

CHAPTER XIV Yarn Dressings

For Hard -Twist Varus ......

For Hemp and Linen Varus .

Hoffmann's Method of Sizing and Dressing Cotton Yarns

Dressing for Sewing Twist .....

Hoelken's Dull Finish for Cotton, Linen, Woollen, and Silk Yarns

Baerle and Sponnagel's Crystal Size Dressing .

Horse Chestnut Starch for Dressing ....

CHAPTER XV Laundry Glazes

Starch Glaze Zwick's Starch Glaze .

Laundry » (la: e.

Liquid Starch Glaze Vienna Laundry Glaze Dietrich's Laundry Glaze Laundry Glaze . 1 tossing Preparation for Starching xni

CHAPTER XVI \kn Sizing Wheaten Flour Sizing

Sizes ....

Sixes for Unbleaohed Cotton Warpa English Size for Heavy Loading Machine Size for Dyed-Cotton Varna Warp Size Size Powder Potato Starch Size Potato Flour Size ( larragheen Size Glycerine in Vain Size Machine Size for Strong Linen Yarns Machine Size for Light Linen Varna Machine Size for Woollen Yarns Glycerine Size for Dyed-Cotton Yarns (No. 40 Machine Sizes for Jute Yarns .

Size for Hand or Hank Sizing Dyed -Cotton Y For Dyed-Cotton Yarns (No, 26 to 36) For Woollen Warpa Size for Cotton ....

Mandot's Glycerine Size Size for Cotton Yarn .

Size for Linen Yarn in the Hank Morin's Size ....

Size for Woollen Warps Size .....

Loaded Size ....

Potato Flour Size Water-Glass Size Size for Jute Warps Vogt's Eecipe for Size .

Bone Size ....

Haubold's Yarn-Sizing Machine Methods of Recovering Size, Oil, Salts, Acids

from Yarns and Fabrics Extracting the Adhesives from the Fabric Eliminating Dressings with Diastafor .

to f>0) arns (N o. 12 to and Other Substance

CHAPTER XVII Finishing Woollen Goods Silk Finish for Wool

Looke's Dressing for Worsteds .

Dressing for Flannels and Woollens Dressing for Heavy Trouserings xiv CONTENTS

Finishing Woollbn Goops — [continued)

Dreaeiiig for Inferior Woollens ..... 185

tamol Dressing for Wool

Dressing foi Worsteds, Cheviots, and Balf-Woollens

Back Dressing for Worsteds

Finishing Woollens by the Eleotric Corrent .

1 BAPTEB XVIII

Finishing Silk Fabkh s .

. 188

Single Dressing for Silk

Full Dressing for Silk .

Kaeppelin's Dressing .

Jandin and Duval's Dressing .

Bamsbotten's Dressing.

Pastor's Dressing

Knape's Dressing

1 1 ^sing for Taffeta, Foulard, etc.

Amber Dressing

Finishing Half-Silk Satins

CHAPTER XIX Waterproof Dbxssis

Alexanderson's Recipe .

Recipe of Arieny-Flouy, Bayol, and Laurens

Balard's Recipe

Chevallot and Girre's Recipe .

Felton's Recipe

Kappelin's Recipe

Sorel's Recipe ....

Waterproof Dressing for Linens and Cottons

Muratori and Landry's Method of Waterproofing Felt

Half- Woollens Jacquelin's Process of Waterproofing Linens, Cottons

Silks Baswitz's Recipe Doering's Recipe

Muzmann and Krakowieser's Recipe Bled and Dujardin's Recipe BrafFs Recipe .

Hermann Coins' Recipe Various Waterproofing Recipes

Woollens, Woollens, and and

CHAPTEK XX

Fireproof Dressings B. HofFs Recipe Fersmann and Oppenheim's Recipe

204 205 206

XV

FIREPROOF DRESSINGS — (CtmliilVril)

Fleck's Recipe .

Gleichmar's Recipe

Gimenez and Grigogen's Recipe

.1. A. Martin's Fireproof Dressing

Nieoll's Fireproof Dressings

Patera's Fireproof Dressing

Eisner's Method of FireprooBng Fabrii

Hottin s Recipe

Intyrn's Recipe

Fielding's Recipe

Thourut's Fireproof Dressing .

Sulliot and David's Recipe

CHAPTER XXI Imparting a Silky Appearance to Vegetable Fibres

Silvering and Gilding Silk

Sachs' Printing Process

Flexible Mother-of-Pearl Design on Various Fabrics

Metal Lustre Finishes ....

Adolf s Chrome-Glne Dressing.

Applying Spangles to Fabrics .

Colour Photography on Woven Fabrics

Gold and Silver Designs Applied by Heat

Imitating Embroidery and Lace

Silvering and Gilding Silks

Velvet Effect .....

Embossed Metal, or Colour Designs on Velvet

Metallising Clothing Materials

Bouillonne Finish ....

Chapter. XXII

The Application of Dressing Preparations Dressing Machines Baerlein's Sizing Machine Starching Machine Padding Machine The Double Padding Machine .

Loading Machine

Starching Machine for Heavy Goods Machine for Back Starching The Sizing Machine Pneumatic Spraying Apparatus for Liquid Dressings Jahr's Universal Stenter and Drying Machine Jahr's Gassing Machine xvi CONTENTS

Tin: Application of Dressing Preparations — {oontiwued) paoi

Dressing Distributor ....••• 245

Gebauer's Hydraulic Box-Mangle ..... 246

Embossing Machine .-...- • 248