A Ride To Khiva

Front matter

SHE WING

_ THE ADVANCES or RUSSIA g CENTRAL ASIA.

Authors Route English Statute Miles.

Preface

Tue title explains the nature of this work. It is merely a narrative of a ride to Khiva. I have added a short account of Russia’s Advance Eastward.

In the course of my journey I had the opportunity of conversing with many Russians in Central Asia. India was a topic which never failed to produce numerous comments. .

A work has been lately published in St. Petersburg. The author dilates at considerable length on the Russo-Indian Question. His opinions on this subject are similar to those which I have heard expressed. The author’s remarks are as follows :—

“ Another advantage which we have gained consists in the fact that from our present position our power of threatening British India has become real, and ceased to be visionary. In this respect our Central Asian possessions serve only as an 颢afe on the road to further advance, and as a halting-place where we can rest and gather fresh strength. If in the time of Paul I. an overland expedition to India was considered feasible, it is certainly much more so at the v1 PREFACE.

present time, when we have shortened the interval by such an immense stretch of country.

“ Asia will not of course ever form the avowed object of dispute between England and Russia, but in the event of a war produced by European complications, we shall clearly be obliged in our own interests to take advantage of the proximity to India which is afforded by our present position in Central Asia.

“ Besides the English,” the author continues, “there is another nation whose attitude is also one of expectancy for the Russians—namely, the natives of India.

“The East India Company is nothing less than a poisonous unnatural plant engrafted on the splendid soil of India—a parasite which saps away the life of the most fertile and wealthy country in the world.

‘This plant can only be uprooted by forcible means; and such an attempt was made by the natives of the country in 1857, though it failed for want of sufficient skill.

“Sick to death, the natives are now waiting for a physician from the North. Some time will naturally elapse before they care to repeat the experiment of 1857; and, as far as can be foreseen, the English will have to deal only with disconnected outbreaks; but it cannot be said with any certainty that such small sparks of rebellion may not, if supported by an impetus from without, produce a general conflagration throughout the length and breadth of India. In this case the

PREFACE. Vii

British Government will be unable to reckon on the support of the native troops, numbering 124,000 out of a total of 200,000, and the small remnant will barely be sufficient to guard the most important points.”

Such are the observations of Captain Terentyeff in his recent work called “ Russia and England in the East.”

In my own: opinion Russia, from her present position, has not the power of even threatening British India. However, she has the power of threatening points which, should she be permitted to annex them, would form a splendid basis for operations against Hindostan. Merve, Balkh, and Kashgar would make magnificent ¢é/apes. The former locality is richer than any of the most fertile corn-growing countries in European Russia. Merve is close to Herat; and should the Afghans join with Russia, a direct advance might be made upon India through the Bolan Pass. If Kashgar were permitted to fall into the Tzar’s possession, we should lose our prestige with the Mohammedans in Central Asia; whilst the occupation of Kashgar would prove a disagreeable thorn in our side, and give rise to endless intrigues.

Balkh, from Bokhara, is only a twelve days’ march, and from Balkh to Cabul, through the Bamian Pass, it is the same distance. This road, though blocked by the snow in winter, can be traversed by artillery in the summer and autumn months; whilst Bokhara could supply Balkh with any quantity of provisions which

Vill. PREFACE.

might be required. Should Russia be permitted to annex Kashgar, Balkh, and Merve, India would be liable to attack from three points, and we should have to divide our small European force. We have learnt how much trust can be placed in a Russian statesman’s promises. Russia ought to be clearly given to understand that any advance in the direction of Kashgar, Balkh, or Merve, will be looked upon by England as a casus bell. If this is done, we shall no longer hear from the authorities at St. Petersburg that they are unable to restrain their generals in Turkistan. At the present moment Great Britain, without any European ally, can drive Russia out of Central Asia. If we allow her to keep on advancing, the same arms which we might now employ will one day be turned against ourselves.

THE AUTHOR.

Somerby Hall, Leicestershire, September, 1876.

Contents

INTRODUCTION ‘ ‘ ‘ ’ : > ° ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ I

Chapter I

Information about Khiva—Cold in Russia—East Wind—Russian Authorities —Count Schouvaloff—General Milutin—Christianity and Civilization— Anglo-Russian Railways in Central Asia—Preparations for the Journey —The Sleeping Bag—Cockle’s er ree pe eee: for ne : ‘ ° ‘ p ; ‘ . 8

Chapter II

Waist-belt for Gold—A Servant an Encumbrance when Travelling—Cologne —Russian Diplomatic Agent—The Nord Newspaper—Mr. Disraeli—The Suez Canal Shares—Baron Reuter—Strausberg—Examination of Passports —Of Sleeping Bag—Railway Travellingin Russia—Refreshment Rooms— Russian disregard of Time—Officials easily Suborned—St. Petersburg —Sleigh Drivers—No Russian Piece in any Theatre—A Russian’s Dislike to his own Language—His Contempt for anything purely Russian—Military Rank—A Village Drinking Establishment—Jonka— Table d’héte—Fish Soups—India and Education—Agitators—General Kauffmann’s Dislike to Publicity—Mr. Schuyler—Bismarck and the Russian Language—All have their Price—Gold an Open Sesame— Letter to General Milutin—Count Schouvaloff’s Brother not in St. Petersburg . ° ° : . . ‘ . . ° ‘ . 16

Chapter III

The Volga Frozen—Navigation Stopped in the Caspian—The Russian Boundary Line in the East—Reports are rife in Russia—The Press is Gagged—General Milutin’s Regard for my Safety—Ignorance of Clerks at Railway’ Station—Cartridge Case—Insurgents in Herzegovina—Subscriptions—England bent upon Money-making—Austria allied with England—The Baltic Provinces—The Russians’ Hatred of Austria and ee eee — Her ee s Consul in Moscow ; : ‘ - 31 x CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Railway Officials—Unpunctuality of Trains—Frauds on the Railway Companies—Old Spirit of Serfdom—Socialistic and Nihilist Tendencies— The Emperor Alexander and the Religious Influence in Russia—The Ecclesiastical Hierachy more powerful than the Tzar—Waiting-rooms at Riajsk—Superstition and Dirt—Sizeran e ° ‘ .

Chapter V

Twenty Degrees below Zero—Provisions—Wolves in the Neighbourhood— Our Troika—Driving along the Volga—Price of Corn—Bridge being Built over the River—The Sterlet-—The Cossacks of the Ural—How to Catch Sturgeon —The three kinds of Caviare ee . ° .

‘CHAPTER VI.

A Hole in the Ice—The Two Alternatives—Being Dragged through the Water—Preparing for the Leap—Price of Land—Our First Halting-place —Winnowing Corn—Russian Idols © 6 © e « «

Chapter VII

Pins-and-Needles—Spoiled Horses—Driver’s idea of Distance—The Halting-place—Our Fellow Travellers—A Devout but Unwashed Pedlar—A Glorious Sunrise—A Bargain isa Bargain . . . . . .

Chapter VIII

The Guardian of the Forests—No Sleigh Bells allowed in the Town—Hotel Anaeff—A Curiously-shaped Vehicle—Law about Libel—Price of Provisions at Samara—Rate of Mortality amongst the Infant Population— Podorojnayas, or Road Passports—The Grumblers’ Book—Difference of Opinion between my Horses andthe Driver. eo wl gk

Chapter IX

Delayed by a Snowstorm — Tchin — Russian Curiosity A Conservative Inspector—General Kryjinovsky—He tells me that I speak Russian— The Interest the Paternal Government takes in my Movements—Russia and China—A Newly-married Sleigh Driver—A Camel in Love . ‘

CHAPTER X., : Sleigh Sickness—A Happy Family—Orenburg—Nipping—Gas from a Charcoal Stove—A Professor of Eastern Languages—The Chief of the Police —Special Order Prohibiting Foreigners from Travelling in Turkistan— Messrs. MacGahan and Schuyler—In Search of a Servant—Friendly Interest Russian Officers take in India—Exhibition of Maps—Map of the Punjaub—March Routes—General Bazoulek . : oe

Chapter XI

The Ural Cossacks — Dissenters — Two Thousand Five Hundred Men Banished—Exiles Flogged—A Battue—Reports about General Kauffmann—The Tzar's Officers in Turkistan e ° A ; : ‘

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CONTENTS. x!

Chapter XII. Page

A Supply of Provisions—A Grocer’s Shop—An Elastic Piece of Goods— Schuyler and MacGahan—A Russian Bank—Gold and Paper—Coutts’ Circular Notes—Cox’s Letter of Credit—What is the Paper Value of a Half Imperial ?—Russia on the verge of Bankruptcy—A Dinner Party —German Military Railway Carriages—The Russian Railway Gauge— Christmas Day—The Chief of the Police—An Intelligent Thief Catcher —A Podorojnaya—Arrival of the Prisoner—‘‘ Women, women—there were two with him!” . e e ° e e e ° e e 102

Chapter XIII

A Sheepskin Suit—Servant Hunting—A Tartar Dwarf—Nazar—Packing the Sleigh— Kirghiz Camels—Ural Mountains—Krasnogorsk—Bouran—Off the Track—Harness Broken—Driver Loses his Way—Nazar Famished —Keeping Awake under Difficulties—The Rescue —Nazar’s Culinary Composition—Benighted Travellers—The Courier—An Officer and his Wife—The ee Heat or Extreme Cold, which is the worst to bear? . ‘ . : ‘ ; . IUL

Chapter XIV

A Start with the Courier—Tea-money—A Breakdown—The Book for Complaints—Improvement in Scenery—Trade in Shawls—An Eastern Tale—Podgornaya—A Precipice—‘‘ Oura!””—The Inn at Orsk—A Basin and a Table Napkin—A Servant with a Joyful Countenance—No Horses at the Stable—A Man who has Horses for Hire—‘*‘ You have a Grandmother ?”—A Blue-eyed Siren . ; : a . 123

Chapter XV

Nomad Tribes—A Picture of Desolation—Nazar is Worn Out—The Inspector —Price of Land, Cattle, and Provisions—The Cattle Pest—Vaccinating the Animals—The Kirghiz do not believe in Doctors—Small Pox— Strict Orders to Prevent Englishmen travelling in Russian Asia—The Cost of Post Horses—Robbing Peter to pay Paul—Postal Track let out to Contractors—Fort Karabootak—Filthy Stations—Horses wanted— Whipping, the Order of the Day—The Emperor Nicholas—A Snowstorm—Asleep in the Sleigh—Frostbites—Physical Pain—Mental Agony —Cossack Soldiers—Brothers in Misfortune. . . ° > . 134

Chapter XVI

Kashgar—English Officers said to be Drilling the Inhabitants—Yakoob Bek’s Envoys—Perfidious Albion—Tashkent—Commerce with Bokhara—A Railway to Tashkent—Irghiz—A Wolf—Terekli—The Boundary Line— How far does Russia extend ?—Uncivil Inspector—Bottles Broken by the Frost—Passengers’ Necks—Tartar Sleigh Drivers—A Ruined Contractor—

A Team of Camels—Head-over-heels in the Snow—The Kirghiz Horses— A Hundred Miles’ Ride—Two Hundred Miles in twenty-four hours (on two Horses)}—Two extraordinary Marches . © © 0 « 143

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CHAPTER XVII. ree

Break-down of the Sleigh—Fresh Vehicle—‘‘ The Scavenger’s Daughter ”— The Sea of Aral—A Salt Breeze—Less Snow—Christmas Day in Russia —Amorous Females in Search of a Husband—Supper for Two—Kasala, or Fort Number One—The Garrison—The Aral Fleet—The Inn of Morozoff—Comparisons in Dirt—In Search of a Lodging—“ Go with God, Brother” —The Jews’ Quarter—A Commandant . ‘ ; » 154

Chapter XVIII

An English Engineer Officer at Kasala—A Russian Scientific Expedition—Surveying the Oxus— The Rapidity of the Stream—A Future Fleet—Transport and Fishing Barges—Lady Smokers—Disturbances in Kokand—The Js#valide Newspaper—Abuse of Yakoob Bek— Dinner—‘‘ Anything you ask for’’—Cabbage Soup and Cold Mutton— Colonel Goloff— His Residence— An Assembly— The Beauty and Fashion of Kasala—Steamers—Wood instead of Coal—Great Expense to Government—‘‘ When we Fight you Fellows in India”’"—Zakuski— Russian Linguists—System of Teaching Languages—Our Schools in England—Latin and Greek, or French and German—A Foundation; or, a Two-storied House . : ‘ ‘ ; : ‘ : ; » 163

Chapter XIX

Ablutions under Difficulties—The Turkomans—An Escort of Cossacks—The Khan and his Executioner—In Search of Horses—Provisions for the March—Snow instead of Water—Exceptional Winter—Frozen to Death —The Unclean Animal—Kirghiz Amazons—Ural Cossacks—Dissenters and the Tzar—The Town of Kasala and Fever — Kibitkas— Mr. MacGahan and the Fair Sex—A Wife for One Hundred Sheep—The Matrimonial Lottery—A Russian Officer—‘‘ rae is the only thing worth living for !”—Shadows of War . : ° ‘ ‘ - 173

CHAPTER XxX.

A Priest—Only one Wife allowed—Russian Bread—The Telegraph in Turkistan—General Milutin might change his Mind—Horse-dealing— Five Pounds for a Horse, Saddle and Bridle, &c.—A Guide—The Expedition to Khiva—The Russian evar on the ee degrees below Zero, Fahrenheit . ; ; . 184

Chapter XXI

Water Route from Kasala to Petro-Alexandrovsk—The Irkibai Route—The Winter March Route—General Perovsky—His Expedition—Loss of Nine Thousand Camels—New Year’s Day—Two out of Ten Cossacks Frozen to Death—Major Wood and the Survey of the Oxus—Struggling into the Saddle—‘‘ Your Horse is Tough” —Ophthalmia—Cotton Bales—

The Mohammedans and the Deity—Fatalism—The Will of Allah . . 192

CONTENTS. Xi

CHAPTER XXII. ae

Camels—Their Rate of March—How to Divide the Marches—The Kibitka —Better be Cold than Blind—A Tartar Cook—The Turkoman’s Appetite—A Khivan Caravan—The Main Road goes to Khiva, the Branch Road to the Fort—Dninking Tea with the Khivans—Sheltering the Camels . 202

Chapter XXIII

A Lazy Guide—A Cold Pig—Insubordination— How to Awake Arabs—Hot Embers better than Cold Water—Power of Camels to carry Burdens much exaggerated—Quickest Road to a Tartar’s Affections—Sores from Frostbites . ‘ : ° ‘ : . ey ‘ . 210

Chapter XXIV

The Guide’s Retaliation—Horses’ Nostrils stuffed up with Icicles—Endurance of the Horses—The Brother-in-Law’s Horses—Kalenderhana—A Sudden Thought—Stchi—The Women expose their Faces—The Kirghiz Poetry —Sheep—A Sign of Manhood in the Bridegroom—Jealous Females—_ Feasting—A Peculiar Pocket—Games—Horse Races—The Girls and their Admirers—The Prettiest Girl in the Tribe—A Simple Marriage Ceremony—‘‘ But supposing she would not have you ?” 2 «6 « 216

Chapter XXV

Disobedience of Orders—A Lesson—A Song about a Sheep—The Importance of a Traveller gauged in Russia by his Furs, in Asia by his Retinue— Worn Out— The Pretty Ice-bearer—Moon-faced Girls—Seville —Gilanas—Buying a Sheep—‘‘Fat !"—A _ Beautiful Butcher—A Kirghiz Pipe—Kirghiz Tobacco—Heart Disease—Desultory Warfare — Progress of Russia—The Sword and the Gibbet— Christianity and the Bible—A Filthy Habit—Snow for Horses instead of Water—In the Misty Gloom of Awakening Day—Stretching a Point—‘‘ We will go to Kalenderhana”—Ootch Ootkool—Tan Sooloo—Tooz—A Small Salt Lake . ‘ : . : ° . ° ‘ ° ; © 6 225

Chapter XXVI

The Turkoman on his Donkey—Jana Darya—A once Fertile Country—A Barren Waste—The Grandfather of the Khan—English Horses and Kirghiz Horses— Russian Cavalry—A Sea like Molten Gold—Isles as if of Silver—Kamstakak—A Fresh Water Pond—A Return to Vegetation— Saigak —Pheasants—The Camel Driver is taken ill—The Moullahs— Conjuring the Evil One—A Dog of an Unbeliever—The Guide's Fight with the Khivan—A Revolver is sometimes a Peace-maker—Khivan method of Preserving Grass throughout the Winter—Deep Chasms— Tombs—The Vision of the Peer Kazan-Tor Mountains—Auriferous nature of the Soil ‘ : a : . 236

XIV > CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVII

Villages Fortified—The Turkoman Raids exaggerated—A Retrospect—The Cossacks Invade Khiva—Urgentch—Peter the Great’s Idea about Khiva and India—Prince Bekovitch—Careful Preparations for the Expedition— Points Selected by the Shores of the Caspian—Forts St. George, Alexander, and Krasnovodsk—March across the Ust Urt—Destruction of the Russians—Expedition in 1859—Chikishlar Taken—Military Posts Established—Chikishlar Occupied in 1871—Russian Statement about the Shah’s Recognition of the Tzar’s Claim to Ashourade—Russians Established at Four Points in Turkoman Territory—The Adayefs— ~ Forced Contributions—Taxes Raised 150 per Cent.—Dissatisfaction— Letter from the Khan—Adayefs Overcome—The Khan’s Letters to the Emperor and to the Viceroy of the Caucasus—The Russian Chancellor’s perfect understanding with Mr. Gladstone’s Government—Count Schouvaloff’s Statement to Lord Granville—Positive Assurances to Parliament about Khiva—The Force Employed by Kauffmann in his Advance upon Khiva—The different Columns—Difference of Opinion between Kryjinovsky and Kauffmann—Capture of Khiva—Markosoff’s Failure— War Indemnity—Prince Gortschakoff’s Principles—Treatment of the Turkomans—General Kryjinovsky’s Statement about this Subject—Court Martial on Two Turkomans—Sentence of Death—Russian Treaty with Khiva—Khivan Territory given to Bokhara . : . ‘ . « 247

PAGE

Chapter XXVIII

The Guide’s Kibitka—His Wife—His Brother-in-Law—Why not go to Khiva ?—Domestic Pressure—Eating a Horse—Letter to the Khan— The Moullah—Xapitan or Folkounik—A Letter in Russian—Tchin— Horse-dealing—A Horse with One Eye—Canals from the Oxus— Fougouroo—The Grey Horse—A Purchase . ‘ ° ‘ ‘ . 263

Chapter XXIX

The Oozek—A Fragile Bridge—The Oxus—Khivan Taxation—Russian Imports—The Traders—A Slug—A Caravan—Costumes—Saddles— Khivan Horses—Salam Aaleikom—Quarters for the Night—Hospitality —A Khivan House—Melons—Hindostan and England—Railways—An Tron Horse—s500 Versts in twenty-four hours j ‘ ‘ ‘ . 273

Chapter XXX

Oogentch—The Town—The Bazaar—A Barber’s Shop—‘‘ These Infidels have Strange Customs’’—‘‘ Please God you do not get your Throat cut !”—Breakfast with a Khivan Merchant—India a Mine of Wealth in the Eyes of the Russians in Tashkent—There are many Roads to India —A Fort at Merve—Shabbatat Canal—The Bridge—The Cemetery— The Tombs—Fearful Scenes—‘‘ Who began the War?”—The Kazabat Canal—Shamahoolhoor—A Sportsman—‘‘ You have not got a Wife?” —A Breechloader—‘‘ The Khan has now no Soldiers”’ . ‘ ° . 282

CONTENTS, - XV

Chapter XXXI

The Messenger—Two Khivan Noblemen—Minarets—Orchards—Mulberry Trees—Khiva—The Fortifications—The Market-place—The Gallows— How Murderers are put to death—The Muscovite Imagination—Capital Punishment rarely inflicted—The Population—The Schools—Cupolas— The Khivan’s House—A Bath in Khiva—The Bathing Establishment— The Belt which contained my Gold—The Moullah—Captain Abbott —‘* The Winter killed the Dogs by thousands ”—The Khan’s Treasurer —¥‘‘ They do not love you English People ”—‘‘ Four Years ago we were quite as far off Russia as you are at the present time ”’—Distinguished Foreigners—Ink Frozen—‘‘ The Russians have not such things” , » 294

PAGE

Chapter XXXII

Breakfast in Khiva—Decorations or Orders—How to obtain them in Russia —The Procession through the Streets—The Band —The Khan’s Palace— His Guards—-Effeminate Boys dressed a little like Women—The Treasury —Khivan Tribute to the Tzar—The Executioner— Nazar’s Trepidation— The Reception Hall—The Audience—The Khan—His description— Tea— The Interpreters — England, ‘‘ How far is it from Russia?” —Englishmen and Germans—Wyld’s Map—‘‘ Where is India?”—A Compass — An Infernal Machine — Afghanistan — China— War with Russia—‘‘ The Russians laughed at you ”—‘‘ What shall you do about Kasghar ?”—‘“‘ Are there Jews in your Country ?”—‘‘ The Russians love Money very much”—‘‘ Hum!” , ‘ ‘ ; , ° ° - 304

Chapter XXXIII

The Present Khan—The Law of Succession—The Turkomans and their Tribute—The Royal Gardens—A Summer Palace—How the Sovereign administers Justice—God’s Vengeance—The Prison—The Prisoners— —The Stocks—The Schools—The Moullahs—Reading, Writing, and the Koran—How Schoolmasters are remunerated for their trouble— Preparations for a Start to Bokhara—L’homme propose, mais Dieu dispose —A Letter—It must have cost a large sum of money sending that Telegram—General Milutin— The Bazaar—A Strict Order—A Nose-ring—The Unclean Animal—A Present from the Khan—His Invitation to Englishmen—His Hospitality . . . . : . : ° 315

Chapter XXXIV

Departure from Khiva—The Khan’s Brother—His rumoured intention of visiting St. Petersburg—Villages—Goryin—The Governor of Anca— L: Northbrook—Herat—Lahore—Lucknow—Calcu:ta—Our Soldiers in India—The Cossacks—Indian Teas—The Amou Darya—Lager— Three Squadrons Picketed out in the open— The Telegram from H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge—Colonel Ivanoff—Misunderstanding between Major Wood and Colonel Ivanoff—Atmosphere of Centra]

# xvi CONTENTS.

PAGE

Asia, and the Colonel’s Memory—Letter to General Kolpakovsky— Dinner at Ivanoff's—Russia and England—Merve—If taken a Strong Fort would be Built there—Roads to Merve—The Khivans are Quiet People—Court Martial upon the Turkomans—Borrowing to Pay the Interest of Former Loans—Troops at Petro - Alexandrovsk—Ivanoff would shortly receive his Promotion—The Russki Mir (Russian World) —Article on the large number of German Officers in the Russian Army —Marked antipathy to the Germans—The New Military System in a transitory state—Contempt eee for Austria—The Ladies at Petro- Alexandrovsk . ‘ : ° ‘ ‘ ; ‘ ° ‘ . 324

Chapter XXXV

The Meet—Bokharan and Kirghiz Sportsmen —The Country—The Chase— The Falcons—A Club-house—A Ball—The way of Dancing Quadrilles —Valses—A Mazurka—Theatricals—Osbaldestone’s Feat—The Davenport Brothers’ Trick—The Khan’s Treasurer—An Envoy from the Ameer of Bokhara—‘‘ Who is the Khan in the Moon?”—A Russo- German Scientific Expedition—A Prussian Officer—Nazar and Ivanoff’s Servants—Captain Yanusheff—Shurahan . 7 ; ‘ - 334

Chapter XXXVI

The Tarantass—The Last Adieux—A Night in the Cold—The Cossacks : their Arms, Weight, &c.—How they Bivouac—The Ameer of Bokhara —The Sentry—His Punishment—Whipping the Camel Driver—The Kirghiz Postman—A Kirghiz Chapel—A Race back to Kasala—371 Miles in nine Days and two Hours—A Duel—Mutiny of the Uralsk Cossacks—The Tzarevitch—The Cross of St. George—A Reinforcement of 10,000 Men from Orenburg. ; ‘ ; , : ; - 343

Chapter XXXVII

The District Governor—A Cossack Colonel’s Funeral—The Island in the Sea of Aral—How to join the Amou Darya and Syr Darya Rivers—My Quarters in Morozoff’s Inn—Letter from General Kolpakovsky— Changing Money—English Sovereigns—Sale of Horses—A Jew and a Greek—Sympathy between the Russians and the Greeks—A Rich Young Kirghiz Widow—Love-making through a Third Party—A Boy Husband —Cossacks Marching from Orenburg—Nazar’s Father-in-Law—The Commander of the Battery—Despatches sent from Tashkent to St. Petersburg in twelve Days—A Fat Goose . . . - + « 352

Chapter Xxxviii

An Inquisitive Inspector—‘‘ Will England cede us Kasghar ?””—The Fortress Afghan—‘‘ Are the English Christians?”—‘‘ Have you Images ?”— ** Aud yet you call yourselves Christians !’""—The Bath in Uralsk—No one Washed on a Friday—The Chief of the Police—A Murderer—His Punishment—The Ural Cossacks—Sizeran—Good-bye to Nazar . . 361

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APPENDIX A.

PAGE

The Russian Advance Eastward "i i ; : ‘ ‘ ; . 367 APPENDIX B.

Report of Mr. Schuyler... ; of a ‘ - 391% APPENDIX C.

Russian Immorality in Central Asia . . . - © «6 «© « 396 APPENDIX D.

Treaty of Peace between Russia and Khiva ; ‘ ’ ‘ : » 397 APPENDIX E.

The Promise not to Annex Khivan Territory ; ; j ‘ ; . 402 APPENDIX F.

Treaty conclnded between General Kauffmann and Seid Muzafer, Ameer of

An Afghan Prince on the Importance of Merve .°. ‘ : . » 409 APPENDIX H.

Budget of the Turkistan Government . é j ‘ ‘ ; , . 412 APPENDIX I.

Russian Operations against the Yomud Turkomans_ Z ‘ ; » 405 APPENDIX J.

Movements of Russian Troops on the Oxus : ' ; ‘ ‘ - 419

APPENDIX K.

Showing how easily Merve might be taken by the Russians - 6 6 424 APPENDIX L.

A Russian Officer on Cossack Bivouacs e ie 3 .- «© © “%» 425

APPENDIX M.

A Russian Officer about the Size and Requirements of a Steppe Train. . 426

APPENDIX N.

Ways of Communication by Sea to the East Coast of the Caspian . . 428

XVIII CONTENTS,

APPENDIX 0, — Steppe Routes , ° ‘ . . © : ° ‘ . - 430

APPENDIX P, The Most Important Routes in Turkistan , ‘ ° 6 : - + 432

APPENDIX Q.

Captain Burnaby’s Route from Orenburg to Kasala_ ° . ©) s 445 APPENDIX R.

March Routes in Bokhara and Afghanistan, oe i“ oe Kostenko, a Russian Staff Officer . ° e e ° ° e 446 APPENDIX S.

March Routes in Cachemire and Afghanistan, compiled by Mr. Bektchourin. 447

APPENDIX T.

Colonel Venukoff’s List of Routes in China and in Central Asia , ; . 448

A RIDE TO KHIVA.

Introduction

A Low room, with but little furniture, and that of the simplest kind ; a few telegraphic instruments scattered about here and there in out-of-the-way corners, and mixed up promiscuously with rifles and wooden boxes, some filled with cartridges, others containing provisions for a journey; two or three bottles, labelled “Quinine,” on a rickety wooden table; several men of various nationalities all talking at the same time, and a Babel of different languages ;—such was the scene around the writer of this work, who was leaning against the window-sill, and glancing from time to time at an old number of an English newspaper.

The host was a German gentleman, now several thousand miles from the Fatherland, which he had been induced to leave by an offer of the post of superintendent and general manager on a long and important line of recently-constructed telegraph. A graceful girl, with large dark eyes and pearl-white teeth, but whose olive complexion and Oriental dress showed that she was in no way akin to the fairer beauties of Europe, was engaged in handing round small cups of coffee to the most excited talkers of the party, an Italian, Arab, and

A

Englishman, the former gesticulating wildly in an endeavour to interpret between his two companions, who were evidently not at all in accord about the subject of conversation. A bright sun, its rays flashing down on a broad stream, nearly the colour of lapis-lazuli, which flowed hard by the dwelling, had raised the temperature of the room to an almost unbearable heat. It was the month of February. In England people were shivering beside their fires or walking in slush or snow; but I was at Khartoum, having just returned from a visit to Colonel Gordon, Sir Samuel Baker's successor, on the White Nile,

. It may seem strange thus to commence the narrative of a journey to Central Asia in Central Africa, and yet, had it not been for a remark made by one of the men in the low square room to which I have just referred, in all probability I should never have gone to Khiva. The conversation had lulled, the Arab and Englishman having, by means of the Italian, settled the knotty point as to whether the son of Albion, an officer late in the Khedive’s service, was to receive the salary due to him in its entirety or not; the Mohammedan being of opinion that the Christian ought to be paid the amount subject to a deduction, the native Egyptian officials having always to submit to this system of taxation. However, my English friend did not see it in this light: he had agreed to serve for a certain sum—that sum he must receive—and if the Arab did not pay, why, he would complain to the Khedive. This last remark having been at length translated to the official, the latter succumbed. My compatriot, the question being settled to his satisfaction, came and looked out of the window by my side.

It was indeed a picturesque scene. The Blue Nile,

INTRODUCTION. 3 here nearly half a mile from shore to shore, lay smooth and unrippled like a sea of glass almost at our feet. On its vast surface were barges and native boats innumerable, whilst many zuggers—the huge sailing barques of the Arabs, and much used by them in former years when engaged in the slave-trade—were anchored here and there. Gangs of workmen, black as ebony, and stripped to the waist, their welldeveloped muscles standing out like knotted cords, were busily engaged unloading a freight of ivory bound for Cairo. An enormous saguzeh, or waterwheel, for irrigation purposes, was slowly revolving, put in motion by the united exertions of a bullock and a donkey. The wild yells of a negro lad, whose duty it was to goad the animals should they ever flag, mingled strangely with the creaking sounds of the ponderous woodwork. |

“TI wonder where we shall all be this time next year,’ suddenly remarked my companion. ‘“ God knows,” was my answer; “but I do not think I shall try the White Nile again; if I come to Africa another time I shall select a new line of country.” At that moment my eye fell upon a paragraph in the paper, It was to the effect that the Government at St. Petersburg had given an order that no foreigner was to be allowed to travel in Russian Asia, and that an Englishman who had recently attempted a journey in that direction had been turned back by the authorities. I have, unfortunately for my own interests, from my earliest childhood had what my old nurse used to call a most “ contradictorious ” spirit, and it suddenly occurred to me, Why not go to Central Asia? “ Well, I shall try it,” was my remark. ‘“ What, Timbuctoo ?” said my friend. “ No, Central Asia;” and I showed him the paragraph. ‘“ You will never get there; they will stop you.” “They can if they like, but I don't think they will.” And this trifling incident was the first thing which put the idea into my head of again attempting to reach Khiva.

I had intended to go there some few years ago, when the Russians were about to invade the country. I had even started on my journey, meaning to try and find a way into Khiva, vwé Persia and Merve, and, if possible, be with the Khivans at the time of the Russian attack. But this project was never realised. A typhoid fever, caught as I was rapidly travelling through Italy, laid me for four months on a bed of sickness. My leave thus was spent in a very different manner from that originally intended, and I had, as it is commonly termed, a much closer shave for my life than I believe would ever have been the case even if I had been taken prisoner by the most fanatical Turkomans in Central Asia. But the campaign was over. There would be no fighting to see. Our statesmen had learned how to appreciate a Russian’s promises at their true value. Samarcand had been annexed to the Tzar’s dominions, the Black Sea Treaty had been repudiated, and Russian troops were quartered in Khivan territory.*

According to some politicians Khiva was a long way from India, and it really did not signify to England whether Russia annexed it or not. Again, it was urged by others, if Russia does eventually reach our Indian frontier so much the better for England. We shall have a civilized nation as a neighbour instead of the barbarous Afghans. A third argument brought

* See Appendix A, The Russian Advance Eastward, and Appendix D, The Treaty with Khiva.

INTRODUCTION. 5 forward to defend the action of the Liberal Government was, that India did not signify so much to us after all, that she was a very expensive possession, and one which we should very likely have taken from us, but one certainly not worth fighting for. This was the opinion of some men who were high in office, and who thus lightly valued one of the brightest jewels in the British crown. The majority of our rulers did not trouble their heads much about the matter. India will last my time was the remark; Russia is still a long way off; and our grandchildren must look after themselves. Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof; and after me the Deluge. Thus the question was allowed to drop, and the minds of our legislators were speedily engrossed in studying the important question as to which would be the better course to pursue—to allow Englishmen to go into public-houses after eleven o'clock at night, or to send them thirsty and supperless to bed.

The following autumn the Carlist War was going on, so I went to Spain. After atime my thoughts were no longer occupied with the state of affairs in Central Asia. It was only when my friend, in reply to my observation, had observed, “ You will never get there ; they will stop you,” that it occurred to me to ask what possible reason the Russian Government could have for pursuing a line of policy which, easily understood when adopted by a barbarous nation like China, was a singular one for even a semi-civilized power. It was the more remarkable, as, from the days of Peter the Great, the regenerator of Russia, his successors have invariably encouraged the inhabitants of Western Europe to visit and freely circulate throughout the Imperial dominions, If it were not for the German ts element, which is so largely diffused throughout the governing classes, Russia would never have arrived at even her present state of advancement. Of all the Tzars of Muscovy during the last 200 years the present Emperor is perhaps the sovereign most keenly alive to the advantage of raising the standard of civilization throughout his dominions, by admitting foreigners, particularly Germans, to every office in the empire. The repressive order to which I have alluded, thus absolutely cutting off Asiatic Russia from almost all contact with the more civilized inhabitants of Europe, was in striking contrast to the line of conduct which had previously characterized his reign.