Turkistan; notes of a journey in Russian Turkistan, Khokand, Bukhara, and Kuldja

Front matter

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CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

Chapter I. The Steppe

The start — Prince Tchinghiz — The German Colonies on the Volga — Btshkirs — Uralsk — The Cossacks — Their great merits— Orenburg, the threshold of Central Asia — Old acquaintances— Our final preparations — Crossing the mountains — Orsk — The road through the steppe — Camels — Imaginary dangers — The steppe — Karabutak — Irghiz — The Aral Sea — Desert of Kara-Kum — Ari-ival at Kazala — The Kirghiz — Their history and present condition — Their character and peculiarities — Their life — Amusements — Horse races — Marriages

Chapter II. The Stb Darta

Kazala — Fort No. 1 — Commercial importance — Cordial reception — Talk of the Khivan expedition — Prospects of joining it — Suspicions — Frustrated hopes — We explain — Arrival of Eussian raptires from Khiva — The Syr Darya — Obstacles to navigation, and efforts to improve it — The Aral flotilla — A strange birthplace — Fort No. 2 — A Kirghiz cemetery — A Mussulman saint — Fort Perovsky — MacGahan starts f j Khiva — The Kyzyl Kum desert — Hazreti-Turkistan — Mausoleum of Akhmed Yasavi — Inscriptions — Ikaa — Its brave defence — Tchimkent .... 44 yiii CONTENTS OF

Chapter III. Tashkent

PAQB

First impressions — Similarity to American towns— Eapid growth— Honses —Garden of Governor-Qeneral- The Chiirch-Earthquakes— Hotels and fare— The. Club— Ming TJruk- Society— The Governor-General's State —Rigid etiquette at his balls— Bad tone— Cliques— Ignorance of the country displayed by officials— The ' Central Asiatic Society '-Jura Befc — Baba Bek -A nephew of the Amir of Bukhara— Alim Hadji Yunusof —A Court doctor— Murder of Malla Khan— A political execution in Bukhara— The mercantile community — Said Azim — The native town — Mills— Walls -Population— Sarts—Tadj iks— Uzbeks— Their characteristics-Arabs— History of Tashkent— Its capture by General Tchernaief — His first proclamation 78

OHAPTEE IV.

MirSSTJLMAN LIFE itt TASHKENT.

A merchant's house — Its furniture — Mussulman devotions — Dress- Food — Drinks— ^Narcotics —Native games — Sporti ng — Falcon s — Horses — Vehicles — Singing — Musical instruments — Dances of boys —A dance of women — The festival of Zang'-ata — Veneration for old trees — Circumcision- Marriage — Wedding feasts — Divorce — Maladies of the Sarts — Cholera — Parasites — Medicines — Funerals — Mourning— "Asiatic influence on Bussia — Islam — Dififerent sects of Mohammedans — Mosques and worship there — Religious orders — Visit to performances of Jahria — Education — Primary schools — Colleges — Their arrangements and studies — The Kazis

Native courts among the nomad and settled population — Mussulman

law — Christianity and Islam , 118

Chapter V. The Bazaars And Trade

The Tashkent bazaar — Sunday bazaar — Silversmiths — Brassworkers — Cutlery and arms — Iron-foundries — Teahouses — Barbers — Apothecaries — Cosmetics — Oils — Dyes — Shoes and Leather — The Kirghiz bazaar — Caravanserais — Hindoos — Money-lending and its subterfuges —Pottery — Embroidery — Cotton goods — Silk and silk culture— Legendary history of silk — Weights and measures — Money — Duties and Taxes — The Fair and its results — Statistics of Central Asiatic trade — Transportation — Trade routes — Proposed railway ... 173

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Chapter VI. Samarkand

PAaa

The Mullah — Tehinaz — The Pamished Steppe — Assafoetida — Murza Rabat

— Jizakh — Gates of Tamerlane — Rock inscriptions — Tchupan-Ata — First view of Samarkand — Hafistas — Early history — The Grseco-Bactrian dynasty — Chinese travellers - Clarijo — Baber's description — The Russian conquest — Sisge of the citadel by the natives, and its heroic defence by the Russians — Mosque of Shah Zindeh — Bibi Khanym — Shir-dar — Tomb of Timur — The Kok-tash — Hodja Akhrar — Koran of Othman — Bazaars — Dervishes — The .Tews — Abdur Rahman lihan of Afghanistan — Russian adventurers — Russian soldiers — Russian administration . 225