Stirring adventures "up the Missouri" with Lewis and Clarke : pioneers of the great Northwest

Preface

The History of the Expedition of Captains Lewis atfd Clarke, during the years 1804, 1805, and 1806, by order of the Government of the United States, is the first narrative which diffused widely at that time a knowledge of the so-called Oregon Territory, and the intermediate country from the Mississippi to the Rocky Mountains. It presents a description of a new and magnificent region, unvisited before by white men, with its barbarous tribes, their character and habits, and abounding in herds of buffalo, deer, and antelope, outnumbering the human tenants of the land. The Exposition held at Portland, Oregon, during the year of 1905, in commemoration of the great achievements attained by the Lewis and Clarke Expedition did surely lend a renewed interest to their Journal. The work being now nearly out of print, it seemed to the publishers a suitable time to put forth a new edition of the Journal of Lewis and Clarke, pruned of unimpor tant details, with a sketch of the progress of maritime discovery en the Pacific coast, and a summary account of earlier attempts to penetrate this vast western wilderness.

This Journal must ever retain a high degree of interest, as the account of the first voyage made by; Indian or white man, in boats or canoes, stemming the current and rapids of the Missouri by the aid of sails, oars, pole and towline, from the point where its

A

PREFACE

waters discharge themselves into the Mississippi tcr its sources in the Rocky Mountains. They and their party were also the first white men who, after crossing the mountains, discovered the head-waters of the Columbia River, and where borne by its rapid current to the bay where its tuifiultuous waters meet the stormy tides of the Pacific.

Table Of Contents

STIRRING ADVENTURES

Chapter I

Party composing the Expedition— Their Departare — Cave near Osage Womaii RiTer— Grand Osage River — Osage Indians — Curious traditionary Acconnt of their Origin — ^The Missouris — Snake BIufE»— Kanzas RiTer — Kanzas Indians — The Nodawa River — The Nemahaw, and Mounds on its BanJks — Party aiHicted with Boils — Flatte River..!

Chapter II

Some Account of the Pawnees and other Tribes of Indians— -Councii held with the Ottoe and Missouri Indians— -Little Sioux River — Ravages of Smallpox among the Mahas — Council held with another Party of the Ottoes — Death of Sergeant Floyd — Honor among the Indians . . .13

Chapter III

Whimsical Instance of Superstition of the Sioux Indians — Council heU with the Sioux — Character of that Tribe, their Manners, etc. — A Ridiculous Instance of their Heroism — Ancient Fortifications — ^Vast Herds ef Buffalo — Account of the Petit Chien, or Little Dog — Narrow Escape of Georgje Shannon — Surprising Fleetness of the Antelope — Pass the River of the Sioux — The Grand Detour, or Great Bend- Encamp on the Teton River 29

Chapter IV

Couneil held with the Tetons — Their Manners, Dances, etc. — Chayeane River — Council held with the Ricara Indians — Their Manners and Habits — Strange Instance of Ricara Idolatry — Another Instance — CannonbaU River — Arrival among the Mandans — Character of the surrounding Country .^ 52

Chapter V

Council held with the Mandans — A Prairie on Fire, and a singular Instance of Preservation — Peace established between the Mandans • and Ricaras — The Party encamp for the Winter — Indian Mode of catching Goats — Beautiful Appearance of Northern Lights — Friendly Character of the Indians — Some Account of the Mandans, the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetarees — The Party acquire the Confidence of the Mandans by taldng part in their Controversy with the Sioux— rReligion of tlie Mandans, and their singular Conception of the term Medicine — ^Their Tradition — The Sufferings of the Party from the Severity of the Season — Indian Game of Billiards described — Account of the Sioux.. 78

Contents chapter vi.

5 Party increase in Favor — A Buffalo Dance — Medicine Dance — The Fortitude with which the Indian bears the Severity of the Season — Disitress of the Party for Want of Provision — The great Importance of the Blacksmith in' procuring it — Depredations of the Sioux — The Homage paid to the Medicine Stone — Summary Act of Justice among the Miiuietarees— The Pirocess by vfaich the Maodaas. ind Ricaras vaake Beads-^Chaiacter of the Misssuri and of the suxrouading Country 113

Chapter VII

tian Method of attacking the Buffalo on the Ice — Presents sent to the President of the United States — Visit from a Ricara Chief — They leave their Encampment, and |kroce«d on their Journey — Description of the Little Missouri— Some Accoont of the Assiniboins — ^Their Mode of burying the Dead — ^Whiteearth Kiver — Great ©uantity of Salt (fiscoveced tm its Banics—YeUcnrstone Sirei—Aecoant tf fhe Coantry at the Confhie«<:e of the ?«nowsttine and Mtssouii — jDescrip- |ion of the lCi»snti and At surrounding Countiy 133

Chapter VIII

lal Appearance of Salt— The formidable Character of the White Bear

Poreapiee Si»er described — Beaudfal Appearance at t*e BurroandHig

Stir Narrow Escape of one of the Party firoai that Aniraal — A still

more remarkable Instance — Muscleshell ffiver .156

Chapter IX

B 'Party coBtinae their Route— Judith River— Indiao Ifode <{ talcing the Buffalo — SlauAter Siver — Phenomena rf Nature — ^Walls on the Bsidcs of theMissonri — The Party encan^), to ascertain whicii of the Stxearos coostitates tiae M3»ouri— Captain Lewis leaves the Party to escplore the Northern Foik, and Captain Clarke explores the Southern t— Narrow Escape of one of Captain Lewis's Party 174

LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITIO UP THE MISSOURI

Chapter I

Party eompoaag tlie Expedition. — Their Departnre. — Cave near Osag Woman River. — Grand Osage River. — Osage* Indians. — Curious trad tionary Accsnmt of tiseir Origin. — The Missouris. — Snake Bluffs.- Eanzas Rivet. — Kanzas Indians. — The Nodawa River. — The Nemi haw, and Monnds on its Banks. — Party afflicted with Boils. — Piatt River.

THE preparations for the expedition were com pleted, and the party selected before the clos of 1803. Capt. Lewis designed to winter a JLe Charrette, tiie highest settlement On the Missouri but the Spanish commandant of Louisiana not -havinj received official notice of the transfer of the province to the United States, he wintered art the mouth o Wood River, on the east side of the Mississippi, with out the jurisdiction of the Spanish authorities.

" The party consisted of nine young men fron Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who volunteered their services, two French waterijiei (an interpreter and hunter), and a black servant be longing to Captain Clarke. All these, except the lasl were enlisted to serve as privates during the expedi tion, and three sergeants appointed from among then M. oi H.-xxvni— 1 (1)

3 LEWIS A^D CLARKE'S EXPEDITION

by the captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen, to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores or repelling aii attack, which was most to be apprehended between Wood River and that tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales and one box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were added fourteea bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same manner, and composed of richly-laced coats and other articles of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs ; ornaments of different kinds, particularly beads, looking-glasses, handkerchiefs, paints and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three boats : the first was a keel-boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three feet water, carrying one large square-sail and twenty-twcT oars; a deck of ten feet in the bow and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a. breast work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two pirogues or open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at the same time to be led along the banks of the- river, for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity."

The party left their encampment at the mouth of Wood River on Monday, the 14th of May, 1804, and on the morning of the 16th reached St. Charles, a

UP THE MISSOURI, MAY, 1804 3

town 21 miles up the Missouri. Captain Lewis, who had been detained at St. Louis, joined them at this place, and on the 21st of May they proceeded on their voyage. Passing Osage Woman River on the 23d, about a mile and a kaflf beyond its mouth, they saw " a large cave on the south side, at the foot of clififs nearly three hundred feet high, overhanging the^water, which becomes very swift at this place. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep and twenty high : it is known by the name of the Tavern among the traders, who have written their names on the rock, and painted some images, which command the homage of the Indians and French."

On the 25th they stopped for the night at La Charrette Creek, 68 miles from the mouth of the Missouri, and near which was a small village of seven poor families, the last establishment of whites on that river. In the afternoon of the 31st of May they received information that the Indians had committed to the flames a letter announcing the cession of Louisiana, and that they would not believe the Americans had come in possession of the country. On the 1st of June the boats arrived at the mouth of the Grand Osage River, 133 miles up the Missouri, which is here 875 yards wide, and the breadth of the Osage 397 yards.

" The Osage River empties itself into the Missouri at one hundred and thirty-three miles' distance from the mouth of the latter river. It gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name, however, seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among themselves and their neighhours they are called the Wasbashas, They number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of three tribes: the Great Osages, of about five hundred warriors, living in a village on the south bank of the river; the Little Osages, of nearly hali that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them ; and the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot, and settled on the Vermillion River, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person the Osages are among the largest and best-formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military capacities ; but, residing as they do in villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem less addicted to war than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man ; but with the change of his nature he had not forgotten his native seat on 'the Osage, towards which he immediately bent his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger and fatigue, when, happily, the Great Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence ; but as he approached the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority

LITTLE MANITOU MAN 5

he came to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon came the village and the nation of the Wasbashas, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver-skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relations has been visibly reduced, and the poor animals have nearly lost all the privileges of kindred."

On the 3d of June they continued their voyage, and successively passed the Little and Big Manitou Creeks (on the latter of which they found some saltlicks). Good Woman River, and Mine River. " Little Manitou ^reek takes its name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit or deity." Canoes and rafts were occasionally met, descending with furs and buffalo tallow from distant points of the Missouri, Kanzas, and Platte Rivers, under the guidance of hunters, who had sought their game in the neighbourhood of those streams. Captain Lewis was so fortunate as to engage one of them, a M. Durion, who had lived with the Sioux twenty years, to accompany him to that nation.

6 LEWIS AND CLARKE'3 EXPEDITION

" On the 13th," continues the narrative, " we passed, at between four and five miks, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the Round Bend Creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie in which once stood the ancient village of the Mis- ■ souris. Of this village there remains no vestige, nor is there anythiijig to recall this great and numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and other Indians from the Mississippi (who destroyed at this village two hundred of them in one contest), and sought refuge near the Little Osage, on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks ' of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osages, and the remainder found an asylum on the River Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort, but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations having probably washed them away, as the willow island, which is in the situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped. This river follows a course nearly south or southeast, and is between eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a delightful and rich plain." * * * " y^^ the distance of eight miles we came to some high cUffs, called the Snake Bluffs, from the numbers of that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs, Snake Creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our hunters,

STRANGE SPECIES OF SNAKE 7

a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to-day passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding; and in the pond he heard a snake making a gutteral noise like a turkey. He fired hig gun, but the noise became louder. He adds that he has heard the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed by a Frenchman of our party." * * * " '\j\/q passed several islands and one creek on the south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which extends as far back as the Orange River, and some miles up the Missouri. In fix)nt of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the Little Osages, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp, is the situation of t-he old village of the Missouris after they fled from the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osages to retire from the Misspuri a few years a^o, and establish themselves near the Great Osages." * * * " On the 17th we set out early, and, having come to a convenient pldce, at one niile's distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive prairies, and at seven or eight miles' distance becomes higher and waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse, which was probably lost by 6ome war party, this being the crossing- place for the

Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the Osages."

On the 25th they passed a bank of stone coal, apparently very abundant, and the next day airived at the mouth of the Kanzas, 340 miles from the Mississippi; and here the party remained two days for rest and repairs. " The River Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte Rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the Missouri, Which is in latitude 38° 31' 13"; here it is 340% yards wide, though it is wider a short distance above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in width ; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for two hundred and fifty yards ; it then rises a little above high-water mark, and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the Kanzas the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the river; on the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than several miles ; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific gravity of the two rivers are, for the Missouri seventy-eight, the Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very disagreeable taste. * * * On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men. They onCe lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south bank of thp Missouri, and were then more numerous; but they have been reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who, being^ better supplied with arms, have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter are not less fierce and warlike

RIVER KANZAS ' 9

than themselves. Tbis natioja is now huatiag! in the plaias for the buSaio, wfaicfa our hunters have seen for tbe first time."

Departing on the 89tb, tfcey pa^ed La Petite Riviere Platte, Turkey Creidc, an4 Bear Medicine Island, a short distance from which they landed l&c the night on the 2d of July. In a valley opposite to their eacaropment " was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two high points <of land, and on the baitk of the river. About a mile in the rear loi the village was a $maU fort, buJit by the French on an elevat«w». There are now no traces of the village, but the sittta' tion of the fort may 1^ recc^aized by some remains of chimneys, and the general outline of the fortiScation, as well as by the fine spring which supplied it with water. Tbe party who were stationed here were probably cut off by idtie Indians, as there are no accounts of them."

July 3d they passed the Isle des Yaches. The morning of the anniversary of tbe 4th of July was announced by the disf^rge of a gun, and its name was given to a creek which they passed during thi day : it was also nsade memorable by one of the part> being bitten by a snake, though the usual applicatton of a poultice of bark and gunpowder soon cured the viround. On the 5th, near Independence Creek, they passed the ruins of another village of the Kaiuas, which, fr<Mn the extent of its remains, must once have been a large town. Several fead sand-bars here presented themselves and on the shores there were gneat quantities of summer and fa!l grapes, berries, and wild roses. Deer were not so abundant as usual, but there were numerous tracks of elk. On the 8th the

10 LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITIDN party reached the River Nodawa, after passing Reevey's Prairie, so called from the name of a man who had been killed there, and the line pfairie of St. Michael's appearing as though it were divided into farms by the narrow strips of woodland which border iSie small runs falling into the river. Below the mouth of the Nodawa, besides. several smaller islands, is that of Great Nodawa, more than five miles in length, containing seven or eight thousand acres of high, rich land, rarely overflowed, and one of the largest islands < in the Missouri. This river is navigable for boats for some distance.

On the 11th they landed on a sand island opposite to the River Nemahaw, where they remained a day for the purpose of taking lunar observations and refreshing the party. They had now ascended the Missouri to the distance of 480 miles. " The Nemahaw empties itself into the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, which is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Captain Clarke ascended it in the pirogue about two miles, to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country, the mounds being certainly intended as tombs, the Indians of the Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect presented itself: the level and extensive meadows watered by the -Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the bol^ders of the river and its tributary streams ; the lowland of the Missouri covered with

INDIAN MOUNDS 11

undulating grkss, nearly ftve feet high, gradually rising into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed- with copses of the Osage plum ; farther back were seen small groves of trees; an abundance of grapes ; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our own, but larger, and growing on a small bush ; and the chokecherry, wtich was observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day were nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are Tarious inscriptioHS and marks made by the Indians."

On the 14th elk were seen for the first time. They passed the Nishnahbatona and Little Nemahaw Rivers, and found the former to be only 300 yards from the Missouri, at the distance of twelve miles from its mouth. Farther on they reached an island to the north, near which the banks overflow; while on the south, hills project over the river in the form of high cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly three fourths of a mile in length and 200 feet in height, had fallen into the river. On the 20th they passed a creek called by the French I'Eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and here the narrative states, " for a momth past the party have been troubled with boils, aad occasionally with dysentery. These boils were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the Ifegs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes became too painful to permit the, men to work. After remaining some days, they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice ©f the bark of the elm or of Indian me^l. This disorder, . which we ascribe to the muddiness oi tije river water,

IS LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION

has not affected the general health of the party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same number of men in any other situation."

They reached the great River Platte on the 31st, and it is thus described : "The highlands, which had accompanied tis on the south for the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile from the entrance of the Platte. Captams Lewis and Clarke ascended the river in a pirogue for about one mile, and found the current very rapid, rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels, none of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance from the mouth ; that its depth is generally not much more than five or six feet; Khat there are many small islands scattered through it; and that, from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated by boats or pirogues, though the Indians pass it in small fiat canoes made of hides : that the Saline or Salt River, which in some seasons is too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south, about thirty miles up; and a little above it Elkhorn River from the north, running nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands, and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide, and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty we worked round the sand-bars near the mouth, and came to above the point, having made fifteen miles."

Chapter II

Some Account of the Pawnees and other Tribes of Indiana. — CwmtSi held with the Ottoe and Missouri Isdians. — Littie Sioiuc tUmei. — Ravages «f SmallpoK ajnons the Mahas- — Council held with another Party of the Ojtoes. — Death of Sergeant Floyd. — Honour among the Indians.

THE next day, oommg to a high and shaded spot on the north bank, ten miles above the Pbtte, Captain Lewis encamped there, in order to make the necessary observations, and to have an interview with the neighbouring tribes, that they might be informed of the recent change in the government, and of the desire of the United States to cultivate friendly relations with them. Captain Lewis thus coivtinues his narrative:

" Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it is a plain abojut five miles wide, one half covered with wood, the other dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south, near the junction of the two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up the banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach the river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, and elm. The intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or Butterfly Creek, of about 18 yards wide, and three miles from the Platte ; on the north are high opea plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte, the Moscheto Creek and two or three small willow

14 LEWIS AND CLAPIKE'S EXPEDITION

islarkis. 'Vy'e stayed here several days, during which we dried our provisioBS, made new oars, and prepared our despatches and maps of the country we passed, for tbe President of tfae United States, to whom we ^ intend to send them by a pirogue from this place. The kiinters have found game scarce in this neighbourhood; {hey have seen deer, turkeys, and grouse; we kave also an abundance of ripe grapes, and one of our Bae» caught a white catfish, the eyes of which wfere snoall, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin.

" The present season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies to hunt the buffalo; but as we discovered some hunters' tracks, and observed the piains OH fire in the direction of their villages, we hoped that they might have returned to gather the green Indian corn, and thierefore despatched two men to tl;ie Ottoe or Pawnee villages with a present of tobacco, and an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They returned after two days' absence. Their first course was through aH open prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly Creek. They then reached a small beautiful river, called Corne de Cerf, or Elkhorn River, about 100 yards wide, with clear water and a gravelly channel. It empties a little below the Ottoe village into the Platte, which ihey crossed, and arrived at the town about 45 miles from our camp. They found no Indians there, though they saw some fresh tracks of a small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, arid lived about 20 miles above the Platte, on the southern bank of the Missouri. Being reduced', they migrated to the neigh- f bourhood of the Pawnees,, 'under whose protection they no\7 live. Tlieir village is on the south side of