The life of Isaac Ingalls Stevens

Front matter

lilr,. I ! if. .

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I Cornell University

Preface

For many years I have felt impelled to write this Life, not only in justice to General Stevens's memory, but also as an act of duty to the young men of the country, that the example of his noble and patriotic career might not be lost to posterity. An only son, closely associated from boyhood with him, his chief of staff in the Civil War, and always the recipient of his counsel and confidence, the opportunities thus given me to know his sentiments and characteristics, and to witness so many of his actions, plainly augment the duty of making his record more widely known. In these pages, setting aside, as far as possible, the bias of filial respect and affection, I seek to simply narrate the actual facts of his life.

Since beginning this work in 1877, 1 have been greatly assisted by data furnished by many of General Stevens's contemporaries, former brother officers, and associates in the public service, many of whom have now passed on. I render my grateful thanks to them for such aid, and for their words of appreciation of General Stevens and encouragement to his biographer, and especially to Generals Zealous B. Tower, Henry J. Hunt, Benjamin Alvord, Edward D. Townsend, Eufus Ingalls, A. A. Humphreys, E. 0. C. Ord, Thomas W. Sherman, Joseph E. Johnston, G. T. Beauregard, William H. French, Truman Seymour, Orlando M. Poe, Silas Casey, John G. Barnard, M. C. Meiggs, Joseph Hooker, George W. CuUum, David Morvi PKEFACE

rison, George E. Kandolph; Colonels Samuel N. Benjamin, Granville 0. Haller, Henry C. Hodges, John Hamilton, H. G, Heffron, Elijah Walker, Moses B. Lakeman ; Major Theodore J. Eckerson, Major George T. Clark ; Captains William T. Lusk, Robert Armour, C. H. Armstrong; Professors W. H. C. Bartlett, A. E. Church, H. S. Kendrick, H. E. Hilgard, Spencer F. Baird ; General Joseph Lane, Senator James W. Nesmith ; General Joel Palmer, Nathan W. Hazen, Esq., Alexander S. Abernethy, C. P. Higgins ; Judge James G. Swan, Arthur A. Denny ; Hon. El wood Evans, General James Tilton.

My thanks are also due, for facilities for examining and copying records in their departments, to the Hon. J. Q. Smith, former Commissioner of Indian AfEairs, and Hon. A. C. Towner, Acting Commissioner ; to General H. C. Corbin, Adjutant-General ; General John M. Wilson, Chief of Engineers ; Hon. John Hay, Secretary of State ; Professor Henry L. Pritchett, Superintendent of the Coast Survey ; Lieutenant Paul Brodie, formerly adjutant 79th Highlanders, for copying hundreds of pages of documents in the Indian Office ; Mr. R. F. Thompson, of the same office, for assistance rendered; Professor F. G. Young, of Eugene, Oregon, for a copy of Colonel Lawrence Kip's account of the Walla Walla Council, republished by him.

SOURCES OF INFORMATION

Savage's New England Genealogies.

Abiel Abbott's History of Andover.

Miss Sarah Loring Bailey's Historical Sketches of Andover.

Church and town records of Andover.

Massachusetts Colonial Records.

Family records and correspondence.

History of the Mexican War, by General C. M. Wilcox.

Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico, by Major Isaac I. Stevens.

General Stevens's diary and letters (unpublished).

His reports in the Engineer Bureau of the Army (unpublished).

Reports of the Coast Survey, Professor A. D. Bache, for 1850 to 1853.

Boston Post newspaper, files for 1852.

Pacific Railroad Routes Explorations, vols. i. and xii., two parts.

General Stevens's reports to Commissioner of Indian Affairs, with journals of Indian councils and proceedings in 1854-55 (unpublished).

Reports of December 22, 1855, and January 29, 1856, in House Document 48, 1st session, 34th Congress.

Reports of August 28, December 5, 1856, council at Fox Island ; October 22, 1856, second council at Walla Walla ; April 30, 1857, with map and census of Indian tribes (unpublished).

Reports to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, August 15, December 21, 1854 ; February 19, March 9 and 21, May 23 (two letters), June 8, July 7 and 24, August 14, October 22, November 21 (three letters), 1856. See documents of 34th and 35th Congresses.

Reports and correspondence of General Wool, Colonel George Wright, and Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey, in said documents.

Governor Stevens's messages to legislature of Washington Territory, February 28, December 5, 1854 ; January 20, December, 1856, the latter accompanied by reports to the Secretary of War and correspondence with military officers during the Indian war. See, also, above documents and messages for proceedings relative to martial law.

Governor Stevens's speeches in 35th and 36th Congresses, in Congressional Globe.

^ili SOURCES OF INFORMATION

General Joseph Lane's speech in 35th Congress, May 13, 1858, on

the Indian war. _ _,

Three Years' Residence in Washington Territory, by James br.

Swan.

The Walla WaUa CouncU, by Colonel Lawrence Kip.

Account of Colonel Wright's campaign against the Spokanes, by Colonel Lawrence Kip.

Report of J. Boss Browne, Special Agent, etc., on the Indian war, House Document 58, 1st session, 35th Congress.

History of the Pacific States, by H. H. Bancroft, vols, xxiv.-xxvi.

Archives State Department.

Records War Department.

Circular Letter to Emigrants, The Northwest, Letter to the Vancouver Railroad Convention, by Governor Stevens, published in pamphlet.

The War between the States, by A. H. Stephens.

War Records, vol. v., for Army of the Potomac in 1861 ; vol. vi., for Port Royal Expedition; vol. xiv., for James Island campaign; vol. xii., in three parts, for Pope's campaign.

Military Historical Society of Massachusetts, vol. ii., entitled The Virginia Campaign of 1862 under General Pope.

History of the 79th Highlanders, by WiUiam Todd.

History of the 21st Massachusetts, by General Charles F. Walcott.

Biographical Register of West Point Graduates, by General George W. CuUum.

Defence of Charleston Harbor, by Major John Johnson.

Southern Historical Society Papers, vol. xvi.

Official dispatches of Admiral Dupont.

Life of Charles Henry Davis, Rear Admiral.

Letters and statements from gentlemen named in the Preface.

The author, having sought his information from original sources as far as possible, deems it unnecessary to mention the great number of histories, regimental histories, and biographies that he has perused, as they throw little light on the subject, and much of that misleading.

CHAPTER I AirCESTET. — BIBTHPLACE

Isaac Ingalls Stevens, seventh in descent from John Stevens, 1, one of founders of Andover, Mass., 1640 — Deacon Joseph, 2

— Captain James, 3, captor of Louishurg ; deputy to General Court — Lieutenant James, 4, raised company for French and Indian war ; died in service — Jonathan, 5, Revolutionary soldier, Bunker Hill ; other service ; characteristics — His brother James's diary of siege of Boston — Isaac, 6, crippled by falling tree ; marries Hannah Cummings, — her ancestry ; hires Bridges farm ; untiring industry and thrift ; death of wife ; second marriage ; characteristics ; children .... 1

CHAPTER n

BIETH. BOYHOOD

Born, Marble Ridge farmhouse. North Andover, Mass., March 25, 1818 — Delicate child — Heroic treatment — Incidents showing character — Devotion to mother ■ — Her death irreparable loss

— Early schooling — Over-study — Evil effects — Insists on leaving school — Works in factory a year — Strict treatment — No indulgence — Injudicious urging — Fever — Rupture from over-exertion — Seeks Dr. Warren — Old Put's school, Franklin Academy — Rigorous daily life of farmer's boy — Phillips Academy — Appearance on entering — Earns board and lodgings with Nathan W. Hazen, Esq. — Takes first rank in studies — Power of concentration — Habits of study — Proficiency in mathematics — Protests against bigotry — Overcomes extreme diffidence — Appointed to West Point ... 13

Chapter III

Patriotic emotions on entering West Point — Determines to be head of his class — Better prepared rivals, Biddle, Halleck,

X CONTENTS

and Butler — Distinguished classmates — Extra French lessons— Letters describe life and studies — Father and uncle WiUiam disappointed at standing at first examination — Abominates smoking and chewing — Early rising — HaUeck and Biddle compare notes — " Little Stevens is driving ahead like the DevU " — Gains first place — Spends 4th of July in New York — Southern contempt for Yankee farmers — Determined to resent it — Dialectic Society — Second year encampment — Military ball — Contrasts his situation with that on entering — Characteristics drawn by Professors Bartlett and Church — Extra drawing lessons, great gains — Admires General Miller's " I '11 try, sir" — Generous rivalry — Eleven good friends — Visit home 24

Chapter IV ■west Point. — Last Two Teaes

Appointed assistant professor of mathematics — Leading part in Dialectic Society — Efforts at speaking — Reflections on studies and authors — Long walks — Forbidden sweets — Horsemanship — Skating over thin ice — Saves companion from freezing

— Letters to father and sisters — Susan goes to Missouri — Again head, third year — Patriotic indignation at British aggression — Advises sending Oliver to college — Letters to Hannah and Oliver — Avows abolition principles — Founds " Talisman " — His own anonymous critic — His intimate friends — Graduates fijst in every branch — Parents attend graduation exercises 48

Chapter V

Ordered to Newport, R. I. —Phrenological chart — Lieutenants

Mason, Beauregard, Hunt — Ascendency over employees

Newport society — Mr. Stevens welcomed — Personal appearance—Meets his future wife — Benjamin Hazard — Horseback rides — Family mansion — Charming Polly Wanton

Colonel Daniel Lyman — German class — Marriage of Susan to DavidH. Bishop — Death of grandmother — Urges additional fortifications — Proposes to study law — Friendly letter from Halleck — Takes part of Tilden; of H. L. Smith — Death of Hannah — Delivers address before Newport Lyceum

— Lecture on OUver Cromwell — Visits Washington — Fair-

CONTENTS xi

haven battery — Death of Susan — Death of Benjamin Hazard

— Marriage, September 8, 1841 60

Chapter VI Charge Of Woek^ : New Bedfokd, Portsmouth, Portland, Buck8p0rt

Wedding journey to West Point — Returns to Newport — Charge of works at New Bedford — Moves to Fairhaven — Halleck asks aid for engineer corps — Journal — Thanksgiving in Andover — Hazard born, June 9 — Fugitive slave harbored in Andover — Elizabeth marries L. M. Campbell in Tennessee

— Moves his family to Portsmouth, N. H. — Charge of works there and Portland, Me. — Pleasant society — Examines old forts at Castine — Fort Knox, on Penobscot, buys land for — Youthful appearance — Backwoods uncle, warm welcome — Overwork — Severe illness — Julia Virginia born, June 27, 1844

— Visits Andover — Elizabeth and Mr. Campbell — Moves to Bucksport tavern — Goes to housekeeping- — New friends — Assistants, Richard Kidder Randolph, Isaac Osgood, A. W. Tinkham — Penobscot River — Barge — Pushes on works — Fine ox-teams — Judge of men — Severe sickness in winter — Visits Washington — Obtains large appropriations — Confidential inquiry if he desires promotion — Characteristic reply — Delighted in dispensing hospitality — Daughter Julia Virginia died, December 7, 1845 — Beautiful tribute by Mr. Brooks — Organizes course of lectures — Salmon weir — Advocates engineer company — Enlists first soldier — Views on raising standard of rank and file — Ordered to Mexican war

— Speeds to Boston by sleigh 78

CHAPTER Vn

Placed in charge of pontoon and engineer train — Delays in embarking — Visits from relatives — Death of Elizabeth — Letters to wife — Sails on barque Prompt, January 19, 1847 — Diary of voyage — Seasickness — Warm weather — Passes Bar hamas. Great Abaco, Hole in the Wall, Berry Island, Black Chief — Steward commits suicide — The weather in the GuK

— Arrives at the Brazos — Meets officers — Great confusion

— Sails to Tampico, beautiful, picturesque region — Landing

at Vera Cruz, March 9 and 10 96 xii CONTENTS

Chapter VIII Vera Cbxjz. — Cekro Gordo

Vera Cruz — Defenses — American army invests city — Lieutenant Stevens's zeal in reconnoitring — Hands torn and poisoned — Horse bolts to enemy's lines — Throws himself from saddle — Looks out route for covered way^ — Put in charge with large working parties — Volunteers — Independent ways

— Diary of siege — Capture of city — Damage by artillery fire — " Moonlight magnificence and sunlight squalidity " — Secures fine horse — Appointed adjutant of engineer corps — Diary of march to Cerro Gordo — National Bridge — Rancheros — Reconnoissances of Cerro Gordo — Disabled by rupture

— Compelled to remain in camp — Description of battle — Letter to wife 110

Chapter IX Jalapa. — Ptjbbla

Prisoners released on parole — March for Jalapa — Encerro, Santa Anna's country seat — Reaches Jalapa, Eden of Mexico

— Prepares memoir on conducting war against guerrillas — Letters to wife — Feeling address at burial of Sapper Carigan

— March from Jalapa to Puebla — Beautiful country — Soldado — Pass of La Hora — Las Vegas — Perote, its plain and castle — Leaves Perote with Colonel Clarke's brigade

— San Antonio — Tepe Ahualco with General Worth and Garland's brigade — Hacienda of Virayes — Byzantium — Ojo de Agua — Hacienda Santa Annaced — Nopalucan — El Pinal — Acajete — Amasoque — Column of lancers threaten attack — Sheer off at fire of Duncan's battery in two bodies — Lieutenants Stevens and McCleUan pursue one for five miles

— Puebla occupied — Health improved — Reports for duty — Reconnoitres road to Tlascala — Examines position in city — Generals Scott and Twiggs arrive — Santa Anna renounces power — His career and character — Attends church — Bull fight — Army recruiting strength — Drilling — Awaiting reinforcements— Engineers making maps — Collecting information — Wealthy Mexican offers to act as spy — Dominguez, robber chief, with some of his band, employed as spies and couriers — Submits memoir on system of espionage and employing robbers — Rumors — Guerrillas invest El Pinal —

CONTENTS aii

Colonel Harney marches to disperse them ~- Arrival of volunteers — Review — Sorry appearance— Good material — Heavy defenses and eighteen thousand troops at City of Mexico — Character of Mexican governing class — Letters to wife — Description of Puebla — Climate — People — Confidence of the troops — Character of General Scott — Arrival of General Pierce 129

Chapter X

Advance to valley of Mexico -^ Description of defenses — ^ General Scott and staff with Twiggs's division reach Ayotla — Daring reconnoissances of El Pefion by Lieutenant Stevens — March around Lakes Chalco and Xochinulco — Occupy San Augnstin — Reconnoissances of enemy's positions — San Antonio road strongly fortified — Pedregal — Litrenched camp at Contreras — Battle of Contreras -^ Lieutenant Stevens urges decisive movem^it adopted by Twiggs -^ " Attack the enemy's left ; you cut biTn off from reinforcements and hurl him into the gorges of the mountains " — Stormy night — Discouragement — Scene at Scott's headquarters — Second day's battle — Reconnoitring from church steeple at Coyoacan — Enemy in full retreat on San Antonio road — Instant advance by Twiggs, led by Lieutenant Stevens, who comes up against fortified convent and brings on battle of Churubusco — Description of battle — Terrible scenes of battlefield banished sleep — Letter to wife — Tacubaya occupied — Armistice . . 163

Chapter XI

MOLINO DEL EET. CHAPULTBPEC. CAPTUBE OF CITY OF MEXICO.

KETUEN TO XTNITED STATES

General Scott and staff enter Tacubaya — Take quarters in Bishop's Palace — Commissioners to negotiate peace — Mexican treachery — Armistice terminated — Battle of Mohno del Rey

— Useless attacks — Severe losses — Battle of Chapultepee — Castle stormed — Quitman advances on Tacubaya causeway — Worth on San Cosme causeway — Lieutenant Stevens, with Worth, wounded — Enemy retreat in night — American troops occupy city — Lieutenant Stevens's remarks on the movements

— His character sketches of Lee, Beauregard, Tower, Smith, McCleUan, Foster, Mason — Removed to city — quartered in

XIV

CONTENTS the Palace — Severe vround — Ups and downs — Mounts crutches — Journeys in ambulance with Lieutenant Foster to Puebla — Arrives at New Orleans 202

CHAPTER Xn

HEEOES HOME FROM THE WAR

Proceeds to Washington — Flattering reception — Gives fuU accounts to Colonel Totten — Joyful reunion with family in Newport — Shoots mad dog — Ordered to Savannah — Letter to brother — Character of Cromwell — Makes garden — Justice of Mexican war — Savannah orders countermanded — Resumes works at Bucksport — Purchases house, garden, poultry

— Characteristic reply to inquiry as to willingness to be sent to Pacific coast — Brevetted captain and major — Efforts to secure justice for brother officers — Opinion of General Taylor

— Brevet pay — McCleUan asks assistance for engineer company — Lieutenant Stevens's views — Advocates reorganization

of the army 226

CHAPTER Xin

COAST STJBVBT

Professor A. D. Bache tenders charge of Coast Survey office — Accepts conditionally — r Retains charge of works — Assumes new duties — Estimate of General Taylor — Magnitude of Coast Survey Office — Organizes the force — Reforms the office — Meets "men of Mexico" — General Shields — Approves compromise measures — Puritan father condemns Webster — Visits Bucksport — Daughter Gertrude Maude born — Wound breaks out afresh — Contemplates leaving Coast Survey — Moves family to Newport — Pays $400 on house — Generous in money matters — Spends summer in Washington — Letters to his wife

Ideals of woman, marriage, duty, ambition — Admiration for Henry Clay, the master spirit — Compromise measures passed

— Fine health — Carries appropriation — Truth and directness superior to low cunning — Office improving, duties more pleasant daily — Publishes Campaigns of Rio Grande and of Mexico — General Scott takes offense 241

CHAPTER Xrv

LIFE m WASHrSTGTON

Moves family to WasHngton — Pleasant society — Takes hold Fourteen Years' BiU — Reorganization of army — Urges bro-

CONTENTS

tlier officers to do " their duty to their profession " — Army man, not a corps man — Moves to Mrs. Janney's, on 8th Street

— Takes family to Newport for summer, 1851 — Another phrenological chart — Bents house on 3d Street and goes to housekeeping — Greorge "Watson Stevens — Letters to wife — Responds to toast of Army and Navy at hanquet to Kossuth — Advocates coast defenses, and writes articles — Appointed member of Lighthouse Board — Sells Bucksport house — Advocates election of General Franklin Pierce as President — Articles in " Boston Post " — Speeches in Andover, Newport, and Portsmouth — Taken to task by Seeretary of War Conrad — Pungent reply — Leader among young officers — Numerous calls

— Friendship with Professor Bache — Continued improvement of Coast Survey Office 2

CHAPTER XV

EOUTE

Washington Territory organized — Exploration of routes to Pacific determined on — Appointed governor — Letter of resignation from army — Colonel Totten's reply — Silver service presented by friends on the Coast Survey — Obtains charge of exploration of Northern route — Takes high ground — Impresses his views on the administration — Applies for Captain McClellan — Letter to him — Sends Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal to procure maps and data from Hudson Bay Company — Prepares his own instructions — Magnitude of task — Organizes the expedition — Gives McClellan charge of construction of the military road, SteUacoom to Walla Walla — Declares independence of Hudson Bay Company — Busy scenes in 3d Street house — Sends officers to San Francisco, St. Louis, and St. Paul to hasten preparation — Selects territorial library — Exploration fully reported in vols. i. and xii., Pacific EaUroad Reports 2

CHAPTER XVI

THE PAETT. THE STAET

Leaves Washington — Expedites matters in St. Louis — Dispatches party up Missouri — Up Mississippi to St. Paul — Rouses party in camp before breakfast — Breaking mules — Incessant rains — Roster of the party — General plan — March xvi CONTENTS

to Sauk Eiver — Winnebago Indians — Canadian voyageurs

Pierre Boutineau — Camp regtdations — Assimilated rank —

AH to stand guard — Pembina train — Pushing on detached parties — March to Pike Lake — Swollen streams, bogs — Crossing Sauk and Crow rivers — Lightning Lake — Fish and game — Believes Lieutenant Du Barry — Discharges inefficient men — White Bear Lake — Parties reassemble at Pike Lake . 302

CHAPTER XVII

PIKE LAKE TO FOET UNION

General course W. 10° N. — Lieutenant Grover surveys separate route — Country within forty miles examined by side trips — Route passes near Breckinridge, Jamestown, Minot, and Great Northern Railroad nearly to Rocky Mountains — Crosses Chippewa River — Camp regulations — Bois de Sioux — Description of country — ^ Red River hunters — Sheyenne River — Lander's adventure — False alarm of Indians — Myriads of buffalo — The hunt — Lake Jessie — Buffalo threaten camp ; stop train — Horse and mules go off with buffalo — Governor Stevens disabled — Lander returns — Inveterate horse-killer — James River — Anxiety at non-return of Tinkham — Guns fired — Parties sent back to find him — Sioux reported approaching — Train arranged for defense — Red River hunters — Tinkham returns safe — Governor WHkie and Red River hunters — Customs — Hunts — Government — Air tainted by slaughtered buffalo — Maison du Chien — Coteau de Missouri — Mouse River — More Red River hvinters — Exchange visits — Express dispatched to Fort Union — Assiniborne Indians — Council — Distribution of presents — Arrives at Fort Union 320

CHAPTER XVin

FOET tTNTON TO FOET BENTON

Description of Fort Union — Alexander Culbertson — The Blackfeet — Making peace — Surveys by side parties — Bugbear stories — Moving westward — Blackfoot war party — Big Muddy — Missouri bottom — Every one ordered to walk part way daily — Milk River — Field order — Abundant game —

Gros "Ventres — Feast and council — Feud with Blackf eet

Peace made between them — Trading horses — Cypress Mountain—Stories of Indian fights — Bear's Paw Mountains —

CONTENTS

Party sent to view them — Box Elder Creek — The Three Buttes, favorite resort of Blackfeet — Crosses Marias and Teton rivers — Scene of bloody Indian conflict — Fort Benton

— Fort Campbell

CHAPTER XIX

■WIDESPREAD EXPLOBING PARTIES

Gathering information — Lieutenant Grover to Bitter Root valley — Lieutenant MuUan to Muscle Shell River — Lieutenant Donelson to examine Cadotte's Pass — Mr. Lander to Marias Pass — George ~W. Stevens describes outfitting war parties — Funds fall short — Governor Stevens takes responsibility of incurring deficiency — Starts to visit main Blackf oot camp — Chiefs join the party — Culbertson's defense of Fort McKenzie — Death of Rotten Belly — Reaches Marias River — Express brings report from Lieutenant Saxton that mountains are impassable for wagons — Returns to Fort Benton — Lander ordered back — Want of harmony in his party — Stanley proceeds to Piegan camp — Lieutenants Saxton and Grover meet on summit of Rocky Mountains — Tinkham returns from Three Buttes and Marias River — Outfitting with pack animals — Lieutenant Saxton, with Culbertson and twenty-eight men, descends Missouri in keelboat — Doty stationed at Fort Benton

— Lander's insubordination curbed — Stanley returns with thirty chiefs — Talk with Blackfeet — Their dress — Peace advocated — Chief Low Horn — His good faith

CHAPTER XX

EXPLORING THE BOCKT MOUNTAINS

Lieutenants Saxton and Grover start down the Missouri — March up the Teton via Sun and Dearborn rivers to Cadotte's Pass — Description of country ; game — Governor Stevens proclaims inauguration of civil government on summit of Rocky Mountains — Descending western slope — Big Blackf oot and Hell Gate rivers — Overtakes main party — Fine condition of animals — Bitter Root valley and river — Fort Owen — Lieutenant Arnold here with train and provisions — Nine passes examined — Lander's erratic course — Council with Flatheads — Chief Victor — Lieutenant MuUan stationed at winter post in Bitter Root valley' — Lieutenant Donelson with main party sent via Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille Lake — Dr. Suckx^iii CONTENTS

ley descends rivers in canoe — Tinkham to explore Marias Pass — Proceed to Fort Benton — Cross mountains to WaUa Walla — Governor Stevens moves down the Bitter Root — Meets the Nez Perces — Crosses the Coeur d'Alene. Mountains

— Cceur d'Alene Mission — Indians — Lake — Falls — Spokane Indians — Spokane Garry, head chief — Forced ride to Colville — Meeting with McClellan — His explorations — Dilatoriness — Reports against country and passes ._ . . -375

CHAPTER XXI

UPPEE COLUMBIA TO PUGBT SOUND

McDonald's Indian tales — Chemakan Mission — Settlements in Colville vaUey — Visits Spokane House — Garry's Lodge — Arrival of main party at Camp Washington — March to Walla WaUa — Pelouse River — Crosses Snake River — Rides to old Fort WaUa WaUa —Visits Walla WaUa vaUey — Pu-pu-mox-mox — Lander ordered to survey Nahchess Pass — Descends Columbia to DaUas, to Vancouver — Colonel BonneviUe — Ascends Cowlitz River in canoe 7— Four days in drenching rains

— Lander balks — Tinkham ordered to cross Snoquabnie Pass

— Ofl&cers reach Olympia — Captain McCleUan ordered to run Une to Snoqualmie Pass — His failure — Tinkham succeeds — McCleUan aggrieved — Governor Stevens's opinion of pioneers — McCleUan's 396

CHAPTER XXII

OKGAJSnzmG CIVIL GOVERNMENT. THE INDIAN SERVICE

Wild country — Scanty population — Character of settlers — Serious problems — Governor Stevens arrives at Oljrmpia — Issues proclamation — Organizes Indian service — Appoints agents — Visits aU parts of Sound — Meets Governor Douglass at Victoria, B. C. — Reports on Hudson Bay Company's claims

— First message — HaUeck exposes Southern poUtical schemes

— Purchases homestead — Preparing exploration reports — Secretary Davis stops further surveys — Drafts protested . . 411

CHAPTER Xkin

RETURN TO WASHINGTON. — REPORT OP EXPLORATION

Warm welcome in San Francisco — Lectures on Northern route

— Advocates three routes — Via Isthmus to New York — Joy-

CONTENTS 3dx

ful family reunion in Newport — Proceeds to Washington — Complete report of exploration — Deficiency provided for — General Hunt relates incident -^ Secretary Davis' disparages Northern route — General Stevens's rejoinder — His final report — Severe labors — Sickness — Doing the work of the delegate— Appointed commissioner to treat with Blackfeet and other tribes — Unimpaired influence 425

CHAPTER XXIV

CKOSSING THE ISTHMUS

Steamer from New York — Riotous scenes — Stops at Havana — AspinwaU — Forlorn place' — Cars to the summit — Carusi's pavilion — Scene at night — Proceeds on mule-back — Tropic rainstorms — Crossing the Chagres River — Lost children — Panama — Embarks on Golden Age — Touches at Acapulco

— Panama fever — Reaches San Francisco — Welcomed by friends — Delayed by sickness — Rebuke to General Wool — Steamer up the coast — Into Columbia — Lands at Vancouver

— Canoe trip up Cowlitz River — Muddy roads to Olympia

— Disappointing appearance — Second message 433

CHAPTER XXV

nroiAiir policy. — treaties on puget sound

Beneficent Indian policy — Intention to write account of his Indian service frustrated by early death — Indians of Puget Sound, helpless, ready to treat — Organizes treaty force — Decides on policy and terms — Sends agents to assemble Indians — Great pains to make them fully understand and to consult with them

— Council and treaty of She-nah-nam or Medicine Creek ; of Point EUiott or Mukilteo ; of Point-no-Point ; of Neah Bay — Speeches — Visits Victoria, and calls on Governor Douglass to restrain Northern Indians — Napoleonic campaign — What was accomplished — Present condition of the Indians . . . 448

ILLUSTEATIONS

PAGE

General Isaac I. Stevens, at the age of 43, from a photograph

Frontispiece.

Grave of John Stevens to face page 2

Birthplace of General Stevens, Andover, Mass 14

Infant Jesus. Crayon drawing at West Point 44

Old Wanton Mansion in Newport 66

General Stevens at the age of 23, from a miniature hy Staigg . 74 Margaret Lyman Stevens, from a miniature by Staigg . . . . 76

Low Horn, Piegan Chief 374

Charles H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, from a photograph 414

MAPS AND PLANS

Route, Vera Cruz to Mexico 118

Battle of Cerro Gordo 124

The VaDey of Mexico 162

Battlefields in the Valley of Mexico- — Contreras, Churubusco, • Chapultepec, Molino del Rey, Mexico 172

THE LIFE

OF

ISAAC INGALLS STEYENS

Chapter I

ANCESTRY. BIRTHPLACE

About 1640 a mere handful of English colonists went out from Boston, and made the first settlement in the town of Andover, Essex County, Massachusetts. They laid out their homes on the Cochichewick, a stream which flows out of the Great Pond in North Andover, and falls into the Merrimac River on the south side a few miles below Lawrence. The infant settlement was known as Cochichewick until 1646, when it was incorporated as a town under its present name, after the Andover in Hampshire, England, the birthplace of some of the settlers.

Among the first who thus planted their hearthstones in the wilderness was John Stevens. His name stands fifth in an old list in the town records containing " the names of aU the householders in order as they came to town." The mists of the past stiU allow a few glimpses of this sturdy Puritan settler. He was admitted a freeman of the colony, June 2, 1641 (Old Style). He was appointed by the General Court, May 15, 1654, one of a committee of three to settle the boundary between the towns of Haverhill and Salisbury, a duty satisfactorily performed. He was sergeant in the military company of the town, a post then equivalent to captain or commander. According to Savage, N. E. Genealogies, vol. i., p. 186,