An American merchant in Europe, Asia and Australia : a series of letters from Java, Singapore, China, Bengal, Egypt, and the Holy Land ... etc

Front matter

CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

924 074 488 5

Cornell University Library

Introduction

the rocks of California and Australia so profusely yield, requires the merchant's ships and system of exchange to make it of the value it really represents. Why then shall not commerce be installed among the occupations whose achievements shall be deemed worthy of record, and possess a literature peculiarly its own. To give it this position, to preserve its doings and experiences, not only its brilliant successes, but its gradual march, to give permanent record to the whole sweep of mercantile pursuits, to keep alive the bright names that adorn its progress, has been the main object of nearly twenty years of my life.

It has seemed to me coincident with the general scope of these labors, to gather into a more permanent form, the following letters of a young American merchant. They contain much information of use to the mercantile community. They were written on ships and steamers, and amidst all the inconveniences, hurry and bustle of travel, and, from the author's continued absence, abroad, have not the benefit of his revision. They therefore appear, as written for the daily journals, with all their evidences of haste upon their head. From such deficiencies they are redeemed by the intelligence, difficult of access, which they embody, by their graphic history of

INTRODUCTION.

the rise aad progress of that new world destined to wield the sceptre of the Southern Seas, by their statistical knowledge, by the glow and sprightliness of their descriptions, and the amusing incidents they relate. The history of the countries through which the traveler passes is compressed into a few pages, and the commercial details are enlivened by humor and wit. Received with distinction by the merchant princes of the lands he visited, his opportunities were rare and enviable — opportunities which he has not failed to improve.

The author, Mr. Geoege Feancis Teain, went from Boston to Australia in 1853, and established, at Melbourne, the prosperous house of George F. Train & Co. with which he is still connected. During his residence ofthirty-two months at Melbourne, he took a prominent and active part in all measures for the advancement of the colony, and when he left was honored with a complimentary dinner by the merchants of Melbourne, His portrayal of the marvelous growth of that city from its wharfless condition when he reached there, to its present commercial position, is a description of events which, it is probable, can never be repeated in any other portion of the globe.

For this correspondence the title of " Young America

INTRODUCTION.

Abroad" was at first adopted — one of our papers having delected the author, for a biographical sketch, " as a representative of the young American merchant, — of that Young America which pours its energies through all the channels of commerce in all quarters of the globe — which, at home or abroad, upholds the high character of its country — which is ready to plant itself wherever great achievements await it, whether amid the furs of the North West or on the quays of the seaboard ; now ploughing the Arctic ices, or searching for new points of development under the Equator ; now carrying our flag and institutions to erect them on the golden rocks of California ; or, as if not finding room enough within our own boundless domain, aiding to establish a new port, build a new city and create a new commerce on the golden soil of Australia."

Indeed we must allow Mr. Train to give his own ideas on this subject by quoting from his speeech at Melbourne, July 4th, in response to a toast to " G. P. Train and Young America." After tracing the descent of Young America for a thousand years, he says : —

"But if the i-etrospective view has dazzled us, how much more astonishing is the present ; when our thirteen little States are rolling on towards forty living

INTRODUCTION. Vli

Republics, bound together as one nation ; wlien our three millions have grown to thirty, and ' driven by the hand of God,' to quote De Tocqueville, 'are peopling the "Western wilderness at the average rate of seventeeu miles per annum ;' when our Lilliputian commerce has whitened every sea, and: our mother tongue has worked its way into every land, and when our influence and our progress — like the ripple in mid-ocean — reaches from shore to shore.

" Startle not, my friends, at the lightning pace of the pilgrim's steed. He is, sure to win the race,— naught stops him in his destiny ; when danger lurks in his pathway, he turns, high, his head and snorts a proud defiance at the precipice that would have ruined him, and plunges on to victory. * * * Young America is only another edition of Old England, in a binding peculiar to the New World. Young John Bull in his shirt sleeves, working with an energy that commands success. England and America are partners, not rivals. The younger nation is the junior, who manages the western branch of the old concern. Youth gives activity, and hence the young man opens his letters before breakfast, on the steps of the post office, whilst the old gentleman prefers breaking the seal in dressing gown and slippers after

INTRODUCTION.

dinner. Young America stowed the same feelings of independence in establishing a house of his own, that every young man experiences who leaves the old house to earn an honest livelihood by his own exertions.

" In this instance, however, the connection with the old concern is of more value than that with the balance of the world. The revolution was merely an animated conversation, where shot and cannon were introduced to give emphasis to the debate, and when the disputed 'point' was settled, old England rose with renewed vigor, in Young America. The sources of discord soon began to dry, and now, as the flower turns to the smi, the needle to the magnet, the child to its mother, as the twin brothers of Siam receive each the same emotions, so are we bound by speaking the same language, and worshipping the same God, to remember England, the proud old mother of our race,

' And join the Stars and Stripes and Cross in one fraternal band Till Anglo-Saxon £uth and laws illumine every land.' "

Treeuas Hunt.

CONTENTS,

Chapter I

Review of a Thirty Months' Residence in the Southern El Dorado — Fever of Australian Speculation in 1853-4 — Its consequences and Reaction — Government Blunders — The Mining Troubles — Economical Reforms in the Government of the Colony — The New Constitution — Its Effect upon Existing Parties — Australian Nationality— Independence Looming in the Distance — A Yankee Tour of Pleasure, ica. Ig

Chapter II

Arrival at Batavia — ^The American Commercial Marine — The Java Boatman — ^Beauty of the Coast Sceuerj- — ^The Mangosteen — Appearance of the Town — Novelty of the Sights that meet the Traveler's Eye — ^Trade of Batavia — ^The Climate, &c., ifec. 26

Chapter III

life of Mercantile Classes — Animated Scene on the Road to the Merchants' Country Residences — Description of their A''Ulas — ^The Native Population — A Dutch Reformer — A Java Hotel — Batavia Cookery — ^The Race Course — Contre Temps of a Stranger — Curious Habits of the Javanese, <&c., &a. 33

Chapter IV

Interior of the Island — Javanese Conveyanecs — ^Malay Post Boys — ^The Plantations — A Javanese Marriage — 'Wonderful Sights — The A\niole Book of Nature Opened in a Three Hours' Ride —

Xn CONTENTS.

Page.

The Governmeat House — Official Receptions — Population ana Administration of the Dutch Colonies — Their Revenues, Expenditures, &e. — ^The Europeans on the Islands — Effects of the Climate on their Constitutions — ^Political History of Java — The Native Population — Departure, ifec, &a. 40

Chapter V

The Voyage to Singapore — Our Fellow Passengers — OUa Podrida of Nationalities — Pilgrims to Mecca — Arab Women — Arrival at Minto — Off Singapore — Dutch Diplomacy in Japan — Commerce with that Empire — ^The Hollanders Catching the Bird while other Nations are Beating the Bush — ^The American Treaty with Japan BO much Waste Paper — The Javanese Mail System — ^A Political Discussion at a Dutch Dinner Table — The Dutch Navy in the Indian Archipelago, (Sec., &c. - 53

Chapter VI

A Singapore Hotel — Its Inconveniences and Horrors — Importance of Singapore as a Commercial Rendezvous — The Opium Privilege — Scenery of the Island — Environs of the City — ^The Population, Native and Foreign — ^The Chinese Millionaire, Wampoa — ^Trade of Singapore — The Malay Pirates — ^American Commerce in the Indian Archipelago— Siam and its Exclusiveness — ^Efforts to Open its Trade — Horrors of the Coolie Traffic, <tc., <fcc. - 66

Chapter VII

More about the Coolie Trade — Numbers of American Vessels Engaged in it — Statistical History of Uie Commerce of Singapore Colonial Budget for 1853-'S4 — ^The Press of the Island — Commercial Notes, <S:c., <Scc. 78

Chapter VIII

Departure from Singapore — Steaming in the Chinese Seas — Pleasures of Traveling with an Opium Cargo — Distinguished Passengers— a Man Overboard — Appearance of Ilong Kong — Volcanic Aspect of the Island — Its Political History — ^Impolicy of the

Contents

PiOE.

Measures Adopted ia Saa Francisco towards Chinese Emigrants — ^Tlie Lions of Hong Kong, &c. 86

Chapter IX

First Impressions of Canton — ^The Boatwomen of the Port — Chinese Bloomers — New Year's Calls — The Lions — ^The Clubs — Chinese Lingo — Political Restraints — Commerce of Canton — The Parsees of the Factories, <to. 97

Chapter X

Trip along the Coast — Sea Shore Scenery — Villages, Fortifications, Mountains and Temples — The Hong Kong and Shanghae Steamers— Their Profits, Specie Lists and Cargo — A Mandarin and his Suite — Coolie Trade of Swatow — ^The British Attack on the Pirates — ^Desperation of the Gang. 103

Chapter XI

Arrival at Woosung — ^Anticipating Uie Mails — ^Tlie Opium Trade — Adventure in the Chinese Seas — ^The Missionary Establishments

^The Foreign settlements at Shanghae — ^Ingenuity of the Chinese

Mechanics — Interior Life of the Hongs — ^The Streets of a Chinese

City Model Baths and Washhouses — Opium Dens — ^A Joss House

^ Chinese Tribunal — Charitable Institutions — Club Houses,

CHAPTER XII The Merohanta of Shanghae— Trade with Japan— The Voyage of a Ifew London Trader to Simoda — His disappointment and Subsequent Adventures— Value of the Perry Treaty— Shanghae as a. Whaling Station — ^Future Progress of that City — Its Government, Trade, Population and Climate — Bants and Rate of Exchange — Mercantile Routine and Salary of Clerks — A Ball and the Ladies 123

Chapter XIII

Departure from Shanghae, en route to Hong Kong— Threatening Weather— Navigation of the Yang-tze-Kang— New Scenes— Ug-

Page. lier natives and Another Language — Boating in the River Min — Gunning and Tall Game — Foo-cho'sv City — Its Trade — Foreign Population — Young America About Town — Narrow Streets, Crowds, Bustle and Xoise — Meeting a Higli Official — ^A Curious Old Priest in a Cage — Beauties of the Couutry. - 130

Chapter XIV

Navigation In the Chinese Seas — ^The Horns of a Dilemma — Macao Its Former Magnificence and present desolate Aspect — Camoens — Coolie Store Houses — Chinese Sense of Commercial Honor — The Bogue Forts — Canton — ^The Foreign Cemetery — Trade at Hong Kong, <fec., Ac. 144

Chapter XV

Boots in China — Discordancy of Views in Relation to its Religions Future — History of the Opium Trade — Noble Declaration of the Emperor — Interesting Statistics of the Trade — A Practical Subject for English Philanthropy — Precept and Practice, <fec., 153

Chapter XVI

The Philosophy of Chinese History — The Lessons which it Teaches — Secret Political Societies in the Celestial Empire — Their Objects and Influence — The War of Great Britain with China — Its Benefits to the Commerce of the World — Origin of the Present Rebellion — Its True Causes Explained — Christianity Not its Mainspring, as is Erroneously Supposed — Comparison between the Romish and Protestant Missionaries — Resemblance between the Romish and Bhudhist Forms of Worship — Extraordinary Spread of Education amongst the Chinese Population — National Characteristics, <feo., &e. jg4

Chapter XVII

Will American Ti-adc with China Increase ? — Wliat the Continental Countries have Done — Their Commercial Intercourse with China and their Failures — Russia more Active — Intercourse with Siam — Novel Yankee Speculation — Anglo-Saxon Enterprise

CONTENTS. XT

Page.

How the Americans were Introduced to the Chinese — ^Trade Statistics of Canton — What the People Pay for Opium — Tea Freights — How " Young America '' can get in — Missionary Influence — What American Steamships may do — What the People Want and what they can Return, 178

Chapter XVIII

Trip from Hong Kong to Calcutta — Scenes Along the Indian Coast — A Submarine Diver Operating in the East — Keminiseences of Japan— Value of the Perry Treaty — Arrival in the Hoogly River — Steam Competition between India and China — Cost of the Voyages. 181

Chapter XIX

Trade of Calcutta — Immense Fleet of Vessels — Pilots' Monopoly — Approach to the City — Temples, Trees and Bungalows — ^A City Hotel and Citj- Crowd — ^Metropolitan Sights — ^The Mint, Museum, Floral Ejdiibition, and Great Men, &a. t 194

Chapter XX

Calcutta Society — Entertainment to Lady Canning — ^Tlie Ball and its Beauties — ^The Supper and Celebrities Present — Ladies, Warriors and Rulers — Eastern Costumes and High Dignitaries — Lord Canning's Rule, ifec. - - • 203

Chapter XXI

An Evening Drive — Glorious Sunset — Scenes in the Suburbs of Calcutta— A Glance at the River — ^Forts on the Banks — Notabilities out Riding — Lord Dalhousie's Departure. 211

Chapter XXII

Botany and Natural History at and from Barraokpore — A Visit to the Gardens — Hindoo Temples, Piety and Worshippers — Burning of the Dead — European Tradesmen in Calcutta — Kat^ve Gambling— The Ochterlong Monument — A Look at the City from the Top, (fee. 219 xyi

Said Pasha's Improvements — Railway Progress in Egypt — Donkey Boys at the Pyramids — A Look at the Great Wonders. - 286

Chapter XXXII

Sensations after a Journal to Jerusalem — Comforts in Syria — ^The Citj' of Jaffa — People Jlet by the Way — ^The American Universitj- — Reptiles at the Holy Tombs— Mount of Olives and the Jordan— ^The Arabs and Missionaries — ^An Excitement and Incidents. 292

Chapter XXXIII

Tour in the Levant — Alexandria, Jaffa and Constantinople — Cost of the Journey and Hire of a Dragoman — How a Dragoman can Bully, Pray and Cheat — Civilization of the Turks towards their Conquered — Caiffa, the Hill of Carmel, its Convent, and Elijah, and ITapoleon — Acre and its Generals — ^A Run and Ride in the Country — A Ball at a Pasha's Palace — Glimpse of a Lady of the Harem — Zeno's Birth place. 302

CHAPTER XX^IV.

The Passive from Constantinople to Kamiesch, and its Cost — ^How the French manage the Post Office — Crowds of Soldiers, Sailors, Ships-of-War, Gunboats and Traders — Scenery on the Bosphorus — ^The Allied Dead and how they went to the Grave — How you enter the Kiamiesch Bay — ^American Ships in Port, and how they were Admired. - 811

Chapter XXXV

The Miles.Horses, Roads and General Travel to Balaklava — ^Extent of the Allied Lines — A First look at Sebastopol in Ruins — her Eastern Fortresses and Sand Bags — Thoughts on the Battle Fields — ^Energy and Good Breeding of the Russian Officers — How the Allied Troops Agreed. 318

XViii CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXVI

How Balalclava Port could have been Defended — What it is and what it was — Our Trade with England and the East — What the English and French Leave to the Kussians — The Glories of Sardinia. - - 326

Chapter XXXVII

The Battle Ground on the Tehernaya — General Liprandi's Last Effort — Dangerous Sport — Military Drunkenness and Boston Rum — How the North Side of Sebastopol Looks — ^Todtleben's Energy — The Diplomats of Russia — ^English Growlers Abroad — Russian Feeling Towards France — Policy of Austria and England — ^What the French say to Americans of the British — Republicanism of the French Army — ^The Losses of the Russian War, <fec. 333

Chapter Xxxviii

Retrospective glances ; Arrival in London — Reflections — Australian remembrance&— Melbourne, Sydney and Tasmania — ^The Spice Islands — China — India and Voyage to Egypt — ^The Desert — ^The Delta and the Pyramids — Alexandria and its Old Associations — Joppa to Jerusalem — Bethlehem — ^Biblical Memories — ^Port of Asia Minor — Islands of the Levant — Stamboul and the Bosphorus — ^The Euxine and the Crimea — Modern War — Sebastopol — Kameisch and Balaklava — Return via the Ionian Islands — Landing at Trieste — Austrian Bayonets and Austrian Espionage — Continental tour — No time lost in passing through the Hemisphere. 342

CONTENTS. xix

Chapter XXIV

Steam Mail Lines — Overland Route — Panama Route — ^Estimated Passage — Cost of Trip — Advantage of Isthmus Route — ^Postal Communication — Emigration — Trade with .Africa — Uniting Colonies with Great Bi-itain — General Opinion in Favor of Isthmus — ^Mail Service — Melbourne the Grand Centre — ^Telegraphs — Public Enterprises — Contemplated Mail Line. 47S