Atlantic and transatlantic: sketches afloat and ashore

Front matter

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OforncU Iniweraitg Htbrarg

atljata, JJew ^orb

Introduction

Englishmen usually flatter themselves with a notion that they look upon all foreign countries without prejudice ; and they believe they are thoroughly conversant . with the peculiarities of every nation on the face of the globe.

No doubt, a large portion of them have a general insight into the habits of the nations of Europe, and a cursory knowledge of Oriental countries ; but of many other portions of the world they are profoundly ignorant. This defect is very strongly marked in the upper classes of English society, particularly with regard to the United States of America. The educated American, on the other hand, which includes nearly the whole native-born population, is a strong contrast to the Englishman. Many Americans are fully acquainted "with England, in the most extended acceptation of the term.

Such were my impressions, when I determined to visit the great American Republic ; and I may truly assert, that, after a sojourn among our transatlantic brethren of fourteen months, I am more than ever confirmed in my opinion. Not a year passes, but numerous active, ambi-

INTRODUCTION.

tious, and intelligent young Americans cross the Atlantic, and traverse England from end to end. No novelty, no ingenious or useful invention, escapes their shrewd observation. The knowledge thus acquired is speedily acted upon, and brought into profitable use, throughout the length and breadth of the vast and fertile regions of the United States. It frequently happens that, in a few months, the English invention returns to us with material improvements before it is generally known and adopted ia England. As this policy is totally neglected by the English, the result must be obvious to the most careless and indifferent. That is to say, Brother Jonathan is rapidly going ahead, and leaving England behind ia all useful and scientific pursuits — an effect not to be wondered at, as he has the advantage of the experience of both countries.

The civility of Americans is very striking to a stranger, especially to Englishmen, as it is exactly the reverse of their expectations. Very few indeed, who for the first time visit the States, do not, in ignorance of the people, think they will have to encounter republican bluntness or rudeness. But, on the contrary, Americans are courteous and obliging to all. It can not be denied, however, that they have some of the prominent faults of the Saxon race ; of which inordinate self-esteem can not escape observation. This characteristic fault, which they partake with the English, is in a great measure hidden among us at home by a reserve, growing out of the insuperable barriers of social distinctions, and is only offensively shown forth on occasions favorable to its development. In America, on

INTRODUCTION.

the other hand, it is " let out" at every opportunity in private intercourse ; and the glorification of the " Stars and Stripes " is a necessary ingredient at all public meetings, if the orator intends to succeed.

Little is known in America of English gentlemen. This is easily accounted for, as it is a rare thing for an Englishman of independent fortune, to visit the States. Brummagem gentlemen, therefore, frequently pass as the genuine article to the great depreciation of the class in the Yankee mind. Let it not be supposed that all Americans are unprejudiced about Englishmen. It can not be denied, that among our transatlantic brethren, a very few may be found who look upon an Englishman with blind and stupid dislike.. For the credit of the intelligence of America, however, we should say not one-tenth part so many as are to be found in England who blindly under-rate the Americans.

I have endeavored, in the following pages, to give a few slight sketchy details, about the United States, and Brother Jonathan, as he is at present. I say at present, for tlie improvement is so general and so rapid, both in people and country, that a very short time may render these pages an unfaithful index of the giant Republic. I must acknowledge, that I look back at my sojourn in the States with great satisfaction ; and am sure that I shall not lose a single friend among the many I was fortunate enough to acquire in America, because I speak exactly as I conscientiously believe. My endeavor has been to write an honest book, without prejudice for or against either country.

INTEODUCTION.

Of the " Miscellaneous Narratives," the second appeared in " The United Service Magazine," the others in " The New Monthly."

In publishing the present work, I have been encouraged by the approbation of my friend, Charles Oilier, whose literary opinion not only admits of no dispute, but whose assistance and advice have often contributed to success.

Lyminston, May, 1853.

TOUR IN AMERICA.

Chapter I. New York

The "Empire City:" Its Population, Site, present Prosperity, and former Disasters — Overthrow of the United States Banli — Influx of precious Metals — England and Amerioa — Health of Americans — Disregard of Prudence in Sanatory Matters — An enchanting Procession — " Just over the Furnace" — Energy and Strength of American Workmen — Singular Taste for Living in Basement Floors- — Premature Decay — Quick Perception of Americans ; Anecdote — Extreme Sensitiveness to Foreign Opinion — Physical Decadence of the Saxon race in America — American Servants — Unfounded Notion of *' Republican Rudeness" — ^Erroneous Demeanor of Englishm.en in America — New York Hotels — Dinners and Ealls in private Houses — ^American Matrons — Zinc Paint — Political Prospects of America — Letter from a distinguished English ©entleman.

New York, or, as the Americans who dwell in it love to say, " The Empire City," can not fail to excite the interest and wonder of a stranger. If we glance from the commencement of this century to the present time, we can not help being amazed at its rapid progress. Its population was estimated in November, 1850, at 725,000 souls, exhibiting a rate of increase equal to 100 per cent every sixteen years. Should this proceed in the same ratio, the inhabitants of New York will, in twenty-five years, be equal to the present population of London, namely, two

A* millions. At the end, therefore, of the present century, it is not too much to say that New York will be as large as any city on the face of the earth ! A recent Scotch author having surveyed the enormous metropohs of Great Britain, and estimated its population, happily called it "the London nation." The time may soon arrive when the term " nation" may, with equal felicity, be applied to New York,

It is impossible for the imagination of man to conceive a finer site than is possessed by " The Empire City." A tongue of land, jutting forth into deep water, and protected by the curved point and islands which form New York Bay, present altogether such facilities for commercial purposes as the world can not rival. Added to this, the magnificent Hudson gives access to regions more magnificent still ; arid pours, in a ceaseless stream, the countless wealth of the most fertile portions of the earth into the bosom of the city.

The wonderful prosperity of New York, and the violent fluctuations in the value of real estate, deserve some notice. Prices at the present time, are somewhat higher than those which existed in 1836, the period of the former great crisis. There are a few situations, however, in the lower part of the city which have fallen in value much beneath the rates of those days. The property in the upper part, taken as a whole, is considerably higher than in 1836. In certain situations, especially on the Fifth Avenue and its vicinity, as also on the borders of both rivers, the prices are sometimes even 300 per cent higher. The basis, however, on which the present prices stand, is essentially different from the former period. In 1836 and 1836, a spirit of blind speculation, amounting to mania, seized upon the inhabitants, and lasted some years, until disasters, which ought to have been foreseen, burst the speculative bubble with a fearful explosion.

The first mischance was the fire in 1835, by which the city sustained a loss of at least twenty million dollars (four millions sterling). The consequences were scarcely felt at the time ; but were soon fully developed by the contest between the government and the United States Bank. The overthrow of the latter came with crushing effect upon the public, and, like the Philistine temple of old, shaken down by Samson, fell

"With burst of thunder Upon the heads of all beneath."

In 1837, occurred the severe commercial crisis in England; and its consequences extended to the most remote parts of the Tfnion. The city of New York was the first victim, sustaining a loss of more than fifty millions of dollars (ten millions sterling). This was caused entirely by the financial calamity in England, and the complete prostration of credit among the State Banks and individuals of high financial position in the South and West

Alarmed and crippled by these successive disasters, it is not to be wondered at that those who had capital were anxious to nurse it. An unprecedented accumulation of deposits consequently took place in the private banks. At this time, money could scarcely be obtained at any price, or on any description of security. The panic continued until 1844, when a reaction took place, which has steadily progressed until the present moment.

In the interval between 1844 and 1861, the population has doubled itself; and the circulating medium has more than doubled itself The influx, likewise, of precious metals proceeded 60 rapidly as to set at defiance the quackery of political financiers. Commerce was enormously and profitably extended ; so much so, that, with ordinaiy care and prudence, no serious or permanent interruptions may be anticipated. Still it can not be denied that the great and sudden rise in stock and shares, shows somewhat of the speculative mania of England in 1846.

The United States Bank, which once controlled the mercantile transactions of the country, is, as already stated, defunct ; and the banking system of the States is thrown open to a fair and healthy competition, founded on actual, and not imaginary resources. The position of the United States of America is such as to rendej her a very valuable -friend, or a dangerous enemy, as the case may be. Any hazard of coUision between England and the United States is, however, not worth a thought. The good sense of the community in both countries is combined to put down agitators, who wickedly and selfishly try to create "political capital" by heart-burnings and dissensions between two great people, who, above all others in the world, are united by every tie that binds nation to nation. Long may this continue '.

No stranger landing in New York, can fail to be painfully struck by the pale, wan, slight, and delicate appearance of both men and women. After residing some time in the country, and acquiring a knowledge of their habits, instead of being surprised that so many of thena die prematurely, one is astonished that they manage to live as long as they do, or look so well.

In a lecture recently delivered in New York by Dr. Fitch, it is mentioned, as a striking fact, that in the States only four out of every hundred individuals live to the age of sixty. In England, however, he asserts that seven out of every hundred attain that age. Still, though the climate in the latter country is warmer, and more temperate, it is much damper, and has all those atmospherical and other conditions which contribute to produce an immense amount of consumption. The people are so confined and closely packed — millions live so poorly, and in such miserable habitations — that a far greater tendency to the above disease exists in England than in America. Why then should a greater mortality prevail in the United States ? The reason is to be found in the different habits of the people. In England, the experience of the old is reverently regarded, and tak^n as a guide ; while in America, experience is but little estimated, and the young consider themselves more knowing than their fathers. The result is, that they often find a fool for a teacher, and die prematurely, for their presumption.

The average of human life in the city of New York, reaches only to twenty-five years ; some years it runs up to thirty.

A few instances which have come under my own knowledge, show such utter disregard of common prudence and common sense, in reference to health, that I can not avoid mentioning them, in the hope that my friends in America may read and profit by these home-truths. A beautiful and intelligent, but rather faded American lady of twenty-six years of age, was complaining bitterly of the infirm health of herself and her little son, about nine years old. In the course of a long conversation, it transpired that she rarely went out of doors, never solely for exercise. Her rooms in winter were not suffered to be at a lower temperature than 70°, and they were often above 90°. She was in the habit of eating a hearty meat breakfast ; meat again for luncheon; and a third time at dinner. If by any chance she took a walk, either during wet weather or dry, she had nothing to protect her feet but light and thin shoes, such as an Englishwoman would be considered almost insane to appear abroad in. "Who can wonder at her delicate health or faded beauty ?

" But your little boy," said I, " what sort of a life does he lead to make him so tender?"

" I fear to let him out at all," she replied, " he is so delicate ; and his appetite is quite gone."

" Do you, then," pursued I, " keep him aU day in this stifling

stove heat?"

" What else can I do ?" she ejaculated with a sigh.

As I had previously seen this young urchin play a tolerable knife-and-fork when his mother was absent, I determined to watch him narrowly, and examine his diet. I had not long to

14 TOUR IN AMEEIGA.

wait ; for on the succeeding day, I peeped into the room where luncheon was prepared, and perceived the " tender chicken" regale himself with the following danties, after he had first looked carefully round to see that the coast was clear. Taking up a small pitcher, he poured some molasses into a plate, then cut a large slice of butter, and mixed it well with the molasses.

" You nasty little beast !" exclaimed I to myself; "that is a capital receipt for bile, indigestion, and other complaints of the stomach."

Seizing a spoon with one hand, he looked about the table with an anxious eye. Suddenly he pounced upon some pickles, and having amalgamated them with the other ingredients, he commenced eating this hideous mess. I was quite overcome vidth anger and nausea, and rushed out of the room to inform his mother. To my intense astonishment she was not at all surprised, but appeared to consider the exploit as a matter of course.

This is, perhaps, an exaggerated example of the great error in diet prevalent at New York. It can not, however, be denied — indeed the citizens themselves admit it — that life in this city is materially shortened by too full a diet, especially of animal food, and the neglect of fresh air and exercise.

Another practice fruitful of disease and death, is the habit all classes have of wearing the same amount of clothing in every season of the year. They make no allowance for the weather ; and, wet or dry, wear the thinnest and lightest covering for the feet. It is difficult to purchase in New York a pair of thick English shooting-shoes.

I was enjoying a cigar one Sunday forenoon in the smokingroom of the Union Hotel, of which more anon. A close and distinct view was afibrded of the crossing at the head of Broadway, and I beheld a stream of people proceeding through Unionsquare to Calvary Church, to hear the celebrated Dr. Hawks. My attention was first attracted by the beauty and elegant proportions of the ladies, and the costly dresses they wore. It is impossible for a man (women would be "at home in it") to describe the exquisite texture of these garments, which were extremely long, and trailing on the ground. Onward swept the enchanting procession. Not one lady attempted to raise the folds of her drapery from mother earth ; but, regardless of nmd and wet, they all tripped daintily along, with their little (almost shoeless) feet sullied with liquid mud. I could not help "moralizing on this spectacle :" sad it was to reflect that, in all human probability, many of these lovely and fragile hot-house plants were sowing the seeds of fatal maladies. Thick shoes and English habits, would fortify them against the consequences of exposure to a sudden shower. But to sit in church all bemired and bedraggled, betokens a recklessness of health perfectly astounding.

The following 'evening, several of these ladies attended the Opera. Again they were arrayed with admirable taste and lavish cost. I was sitting with a party of three, who, complaining of the heat, wished the box-door to be opened. As soon as the performance was over, they did not hesitate to go bareheaded into the open air, although the thermometer was about zero. Their extremities were almost completely exposed during their walk home over frozen snow, having carelessly dispensed with their carriages. How i# it possible to expect health and strength, when such liberties are taken with the constitution ?

On one occasion, during an evening visit to a celebrated literary character, the present writer (" albeit unused to the swooning mood") being seized with sudden faintness, was supported into the open air. On his recovery and return, he was coolly informed that he was the third visitor that day who had suffered in the same manner.

"How unfortunate I" exclaimed the host; "how unfortunate I You all took the same position just over the furnace."

The furnace ! Only imagine the effect of this infernal blast

16 TOUa IN AMERICA.

upon the human system ! By such constant " demi-haking," the New York ladies become, when within doors, painfully susceptible of the slightest breath of air. Their nerves are gradually affected, and the brightness of heaven is offensive. This feehng causes them to shut out light as well as air, and makes a large number of gorgeous drawing-rooms, dark and dismal traps to break the shins of unwary visitors.

There can be little doubt that the climate of the States, from its exceeding dryness, has a tendency to emaciate the human frame. I do not believe, however, that it is prejudicial to health and longevity : indeed, all the people whose employment is in the open air are remarkably wiry, healthy, and strong. Close and suffocating rooms, want of exercise and air, and the heating nature of the diet — these are the influences which cause early loss of teeth, dyspepsia, wan looks, and all the concomitants of an enfeebled frame. I am grieved to say that this appears to be the case with a large majority of the population of New York.

The extraordinary energy and strength of the workmen must not be overlooked. It is an ascertained fact that, in ship-building, the men average nearly twice the quantity of work per diem as in England. Carpenters, painters, and all other operatives, toil in like proportion. The price of labor, therefore, although nominally much more 'than that in England, is in reality less for the amount of work done.

It is difRcult to account for the fancy which many persons have for living in basement floors. The upper apartments, decked with the utmost splendor, are deserted, unless on state occasions, for the dismal, gloomy, and cave-like ground-floor. If Americans could be persuaded that these apartments in England are generally used for kitchens, it would have a tendency to break this uncomfortable habit.

Robert Knox, the able author of " The Races of Man," asserts, that " Under the influence of climate, the Saxon decays in

Northern America and in Australia, and rears his offspring witli difficulty ; he is transplanted from the soil in which he could physically thrive. Were the supplies from Europe not incessant, he could not stand his ground in these new continents. A real, native, permanent American is a dream which can never be realized."

The above is quoted from memory.

There may be some foundation for these remarks ; but I imagine that the " forcing-pit, hot-bed" life led in America, is the chief cause of premature decay. Little doubt, however, can be entertained that any native of the United States, whose blood for three generations has not been refreshed from Europe, and whose immediate ancestors have lived in cities, bears unfailing signs of the Saxon or Celtic American. Firstly, the early loss of the subcutaneous adipose cushion ; secondly, the decay of the second teeth before they are fully grown ; thirdly, the premature appearance of age ; and, lastly, the small number of the progeny, and the few even of these reared to maturity. Perhaps, however, as the corporeal degenerates, the mental may increase in strength and activity. Waller, the poet, writing of the infirmity of age, says, very finely,

"The soul, with nobler resolutions decked, The body stooping, does herself erect."

And it might easily be imagined that this spiritual influence would enable the spare and attenuated Yankee ax-man to get through a large amount of physical labor. " Will you tell me. Master Shallow," asks Sir John Falstaff", derisively, "how to choose a man ? Care I for the limb, the thews, the stature, bulk, and big assemblance of a man ! Give me the spirit. Master Shallow." Place an American ax-man alongside the most Herculean and practiced English woodman, and it would be seen that the Yankee would do double the work, with less labor and greater ease. This also may be the reason why American artificers are the quickest and most skillful in the world. So alert are their perceptions, that they are impatient of verbose commentaries. Many Europeans consider this impatience to be inattention and rudeness. I have often heard complaints of this nature from prosy Britishers ; such as, " Why, sir, I was giving that damned Yankee important information ; and the rude fellow would not attend to me, but bolted." Most likely the Yankee had anticipated the whole matter, and had levanted to take immediate measures to put the ideas thus suggested into practice.

I have seen extraordinary business-proceedings of this rapid and summary nature. For instance : I was'acquainted (at an hotel) with an agreeable and gentlemanly American, who had just discovered on his property huge beds of coal, of which the seams are forty feet thick. He was then occupied in forming a company to work them, and eventually succeeded. At the hotel he chanced to fall in with another gentleman, who had invented a steam-boiler of great merit. In five minutes, they understood each other's projects perfectly, and had exchanged shares in theii respective concerns. Just as these preliminaries were arranged, a third individual joined them ; and after a few words of explanation, understood the whole thing. Pulling out his pocket-book, he spoke as follows :

" I'm off to England to-morrow, I guess. I will take out a patent for the steam-boiler in London, and pay all expenses, if you wiU give me a right to half the profits there."

" Done, done !" all round ; and the business was settled.

These parties had never met before, and were utterly ignorant of each other's existence !

Truth compels me to acknowledge, that the mind of Americans is the keenest and most adaptable in the world. They acquire information of any kind so rapidly, and have such ready dexterity in mechanical employments, that the very slightest efforts put them en a par with Europeans of far greater experience. They do not, however, possess much of the English " stability of character." The consequence is easily foreseen : they have the faults of quick and ardent temperament, and are satisfied to rely upon their almost intuitive perceptions ; rarely making themselves, by careful study, thoroughly masters of a subject. Generally speaking, they have a wonderful stock of miscellaneous information ; but it is mostly of a superficial character. Not one American out of a hundred applies his mind to sift thoroughly any abstruse subject. If such a man appears on the stage of hfe, he is sure to take a powerful and original position in any undertaking with ■which he chooses to grapple.

The chief reason of the extreme sensitiveness of the Americans to foreign opinion, particularly that of England, arises from an instinctive dread of the decadence of their race on the continent of America, which ■will likewise satisfactorily explain the intolerable aversion Americans express, and no doubt entertain, for the negro blood. How can they possibly feel otherwise, when one great physiological fact is constantly pressing on them; namely, that the Celt and the Saxon breeds are undeniably, however slightly, depreciating, while the negro flourishes as in an indigenous soil ? I do not adopt Knox's opinions entirely. I do not think the American continent so unfavorable to the Celt and Saxon as he infers ; but imagine the mischief may be attributed, in a great measure, to the insane physical education of the young, as hinted at in these pages ; and the extreme neglect, or, rather, I should say, contempt of the adult, for all the common-sense precautions for health, often successfully and systematically carried out in the mother country. As a singular corroboration of my opiniton on the erroneous physical education of the young, I will mention a sign that is patent to all, if they will only use their powers of observation. I allude to the deep red color of the children's gums. Nine-tenths of the juvenile Amerioans appear to have a chronic inflammation of the gums. I had abundant opportunities of observmg this fact, as I was living while in America with a large family of English children. The difference in the color of their gums, as compared with American children, was quite remarkable. A pale blue, with a slight tinge of red, denoted health and coolness of blood in the English infant ; while the inflamed appearance of the American child's gums as surely indicated the hot-bed, forcing nature of its physique, arising chiefly from too much flesh food. There can be no doubt that this heated state of the stomach drives the system to early maturity, and as a necessary consequence, to early decay. It is very difficult to account for so erroneous and fatal a mode of life . among a people so remarkable for keenness of perception, and for so large a share of common sense. They are well aware of these facts ; and therefore evince great irritation and impatience when strangers allude to them. The general answer to questions on this subject is given in a petulant and evasive manner. " Oh, our teeth will last quite long enough ; we don't want to live too long." Now I can not help thinking that such hasty answers are thoughtless and shallow, particularly as the evil, in my opinion, can be almost entirely removed.

It is common to hear bitter complaints of the badness of servants in America This is quite a fallacy as regards wealthy people, who can procure excellent servants if they choose to pay for them. The usual number of domestics in New York houses is far less than in England. They are expected to do much more for the same wages, and are naturally dissatisfied. Let the American gentry follow the English custom of engaging particular servants for particular duties, and the evil they complain of will speedily diminish, particularly if they hire a sufficient number of servants to make the work tolerably easy. , It is hardly possible for an Englishman (who has only read of the States) to arrive in any one of them for the first time without some little appiehension of the supposed " Republican rudeness" of the citizens. The moment, however, he lands, this apprehension leaves him. He feels at once, almost by intuition, that he is among as civil people as any in existence. This, of course, only if he keeps a civil tongue, and does not offend their prejudices, which axe not more marked in the States than in other nations.

An American citizen wiU listen to any argument with attention and courtesy, as long as he believes you to be sincere, and not actuated by the depreciating spirit unhappily so common with Englishmen when traveling in the United States. Although our transatlantic brethren are intensely national, I have always found them just and fair to those who meet them on the same terms. I have heard abuse of England, certainly; but it was always excited by the vulgar remarks of ill-informed Englishmen. The exaggeration which many travelers attribute to the American character, is the result of a lively and ardent imagination on the part of the people. This they will readily admit, if urged with gentleness and moderation ; and I have frequently, by good-natured banter, made individuals correct with a smile, exaggerated statements in which they had previously indulged.

Few, if any, English authors have given a just estimate of an EngUshman's chances in American society. The Americans are warrantably proud of their country, and feel a just resentment against prejudiced foreign authors who, laying stress upon minor points of etiquette and good-breeding (such as eating with a knife, chewing tobacco, and so forth), have carefully kept silent respecting their admirable schools and local institutions ; their plain common-sense arrangements ; their freedom from humbug and from absurd restrictions. This feeling makes Americans cautious in their first intercourse with a stranger, particularly if he be an Englishman. They are too proud to make the first advances ; and a reserved Englishman, with the best letters of intraduction, will find himself in an awkward position if he adhere strictly to European etiquette. But if he have the sense to hreak the ice of formality, and is truly a gentleman, I promise him great success in American society. No people on earth are keener, or quicker, or better judges of a gentleman, than Americans.