The great wall of China

Front matter

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CHAPTER I Merely JHselimiitart 3-6

CHAPTER II The Thrilliito Prospect. From the Golden Gate to the Yellow Sea — Chin, Van Tromp, Blake, Togo — Great Battles of Books and Brains — Progeny of the Black Art 7-12

CHAPTER III The Tragedy of CHiirwAsrGTAo. Ever Open Harbor — The Isle of

Chin now joined to the Mainland — The Cap of the West 13-16

CHAPTER IV The Only First. A brief Biography of the First Emperor of China— His Wonderful Works— The Great Wall— Search for Root of Life — Invention of the Chinese Pen — Thirty-Seven years, Reign — Death 17-31

Chapter V

From the Sea to the Eastern Y. Chin's Design — Narrative ot the First Three Hundred l&iles of the Journey along the Great Wall— iThe Lily Pool— White Dandelion— Peace Project 32-50

CHAPTER VI The AxciENT Architectural Wave. The Idea of the Great Wall, European, Babylonian, or Original? — The Seven Wonders of the West— Survey of Chief Characteristics of the Epoch of the Great Wall 51-68

CHAPTER VII From the Thirteen Tombs to Chiita's Sorrow. The Ming Mausolea — The Western Tombs — ^Wu Tai Shan — Magic Mortar — Tablets on the Wall— The Picturesque Pass— Wan Li and Lung Ch'ing 69-93

CHAPTER VIII

The Defense op the Great Wall. Weapons of the Ciods, etc 94-104

vii viii CONTENTS

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CHAPTER IX The Loess or River Loop, jk Oldest Chiita, Land of Legend and OP Drt Fog. The Journey from the Yellow River to the Yellow River — Legends — fauna — Flora — Black Dog's Diary — The Line of the Least Natural Resistance 105-134

CHAPTER X The Rise of Chin: Seven Great Chancellors. Ballad by Dr.

CHAPTER XI Letters from: Ninoria. Addressed to a Young Lady — No-door

life — ^Medicine Man — The Lone Lady of Ninghia 14S-156

CHAPTER XII Genghis Khan, the Red Raider who passed through the Great

Wall at Ninghia. Shed 23,000,000 gallons of human blood .. 157-175

CHAPTER XIII The Desert Loop: Kansit. Mountain Mule Caravan — Famous Moon Legend — Dead Land — Great Irrigation Scheme — Important Tablet—List of Great Walls 176-193

CHAPTER XIV Chin Shih Hwangti: First Universal Emperor of China, His-

torico-Economic Study of China's Greatest Ruler 194-308

CHAPTER XV The Mound of Chin 209-232

CHAPTER XVI The Why op the Wall 233-263

CHAPTER XVII The "9 by 3" City: Liangchowpu. Detour of the Great Wall — A

Cavern of Gold 254-262

CHAPTER XVIII Yung Lo, who Moved the Urns of Empire. The Grand Encyclopedia 263-272

CHAPTER XIX The Southern Loop of the Great Wall. The White Elephant —

The Golden Table 273-283

CHAPTER XX China Before the Great Wall. Yao, Shun, Yil— Laotzu, Confucius, Mencius— Intellectual Activity— The "Confucian Religion." 284-293

CONTENTS ix

rAOK

CHAPTER XXI The Tbbee Chins. Ancestral Home of the Chins— Black Dog. .394-305

CHAPTER XXn Medievax, China ! Since Chin's Great Wall to the Pebsent

Dynasty 306-316

CHAPTER XXIII The Tibetan Loop op the Great Wall, Fast Horse Caravan INTO Tibet. Discovery of 200 miles of Great Wall not on the Map — Sining and the Hero of Slning — Christian Missions 317-331

CHAPTER XXIV The Chin Tablet: "One of the most remarkable Relics op

Antiquity." 333-341

CHAPTER XXV In the Panhandie op China: Kanchow. Journey Liangchow to

Kanchow — Cashing a Draft in Northwest Kansu .343-351

CHAPTER XXVI The Panhandle op China. The Cirr op Sr. Su, last Large City

along the Great Wall— Legends 362-360

CHAPTER XXVII The End op the Great Wall. Western End of the Great Wall. .361-388

LIST OF ILUUSTRATIONS

Facine: Page

1. The Famous Lienhwachih Pass in the Great Wall. Frontispiece

2. Strongly fortified Pass of the Great Wall at the Rod^ Gorge

of Taokwankow 5

3. Three Views of the Harbor of Chin Wang Tao 12

4. The Village of Ch'ach'ien Kow as seen from a lofty tower on the

Great Wall 21

5. The Great Wall climbing the Mountains of Chihli 28

6. The Great Wall of China upon a map of the United States,

occupying roughly the same latitude as in the Central Kingdom 33

7. The First Gate in the Great Wall, which is also the South Gate

of Shanhaikwan : 35

6. "The Last Gate" in the Great Wall, which is also the West Gate

of Kiayukwan, 1250 miles from the "First Gate" 35

9. Outside the Mule-Horse Pass. The Wall is seen ascending to

the utmost summit of the mountain ! 37

10. The Junction of the Great WaU with the City WaU of Shanhai-

kwan. The Pavilion was erected to the God of Literature . . 39

11. Curious Circular Tower outside the Malan Pass in the Province

of Chihli. It is so situated that the nearby Gate in the Great Wall is effectually guarded 39

12. Buddhist Temple of Almsgiving, near the City of Flowering

Obedience 40

13. Over 4,000 feet above the sea, and overlooking the Pass of the

Lily Pool 42

14. View of the Great Wall north of Peking, where the tourists go

to see the most wonderful wonder in the world. Notice width, excellent workmanship, and different style of brick work arising from the terreplain 44

15. Notice the construction of the Wall. This fashion is seen in lofty

mountain regions near the Eastern Y 46

16. Near the Eastern Y in the Great Wall 48

17. Temple dedicated to the God of War at the Mule-Horse Pass

in the Great Wall 53

18. Top of Section of Mountain Wall sealed with mortar and stone.

Mule-Horse Pass 56

19. Guardian Gods at the Mule-Horse Pass 56

20. Side view of the "Tourists Great Wall" north of Peking 58

xi xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

21. Overlooking Lienhwachih. Within one hundred miles of Peking. . 60

22. The Great Wall west of the Eastern Y. Altitude over 3,500 feet

above the Pacific Ocean 62

23. A superb view of the Wall, ascending a mountain over 4,000 feet

high. The view was taken from a lofty cliff near to, but

west of the Eastern Y 65

34. The Veneering of cut stone has fallen away exposing the rubble construction inside. This is peculiar to mountain regions. Northeast of the Thirteen Tombs 67

25. The celebrated "Language Arch,'' or Hexagonal Gateway at the

Nankow Pass. The North Pace is here shown (the South Face is the same design). The Arch, the crown and haunches of which form the sides of a hexagon, is 20 feet across at the base, 30 feet through, and has 5 Buddhas on each side of the flat haunches. In the perpendicular wall on either side are large tablets of granite with inscriptions in divers languages 69

26. Dr. W. A. P. Martin in the Western Hills near Peking 71

27. Coal Hill, inside the Imperial Palace Grounds, Peking, where the

Last of the Mings hanged himself 71

28. Three thousand feet above the sea. The Great Wall ascending

a mountain north of the Thirteen Tombs 74

29. Tower No. 41 Ch's Tzu at Tushancheng 76

30. How the Wall climbs the ridge of Ssweikow north of the Wutai

Shan 78

31. A Picturesque View 80

32. At the Taotuan K'ou 85

33. Near Lienhwachih not far from Eastern Y 85

34. Mark the line of the Tower Wall at the left. Near Lienhwachih 87

35. Granary School in Liaochao 90

36. A view in the Imperial Ming Reservation, situated north of

Peking in the Metropolitan Province of Chihli 90

37. North of Peking is scenery which in the future will attract the

tourists and travelers of the world. The ensemble of the Great Wall here rivals anything in ancient Greece 92

38. The historic "Cliff Tower" Sanholow. Notice the three distinct

fashions of construction. Four thousand feet above the sea and about 300 mUes from the Gulf of Chihli 94

39. Gate in the Great Wall at Kalgan 97

40. The Arsenal Tower to Paishih Kou. White Stone Pass, sixty li

from Futuyeh, containing two interesting tablets 99

41. Futuyeh Pass, shovring exceptionally fine workmanship. Note

decorations over the doorways 99

42. The "right-angle" fortifications at the Yiyuankow of the Great

Wall 101

43. A detached tower at Haiyeh in Chihli. Granite foundation rest-

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xui

FACING PAGE ing on the living rock, and brick work rising to the top of the battlements. Superb workmanship. Great Wall in the distance jq3

44. Two views of ruins of the Great WaU at Shiching. Twenty li

from Gingpien, In the Ordos Country. The lower picture shows a house built into the Wall 106

45. In the Ordos Country. Portions of the Great Wall have been

completely covered and preserved by the sand 108

46. Loess Cone of a Great Wall Tower. The brick veneering has

wholly disappeared HO

47. The Ruins of the Last Tower in the Great Wall no

48. Desert Hamster llg

49. "Kangaroo Rat." Jerboa 112

50. A Chinese "Pygmy" or Dwarf and a Giant near the Great Wall

East of Yenkingchow 115

51. Moone, the Great Detective 117

52. Black Dog and the girl-faced Quin 117

63. The Bird of the Great Wall: The Indian Blue Magpie 120

54. John Gwadey, Esq. The small picture in the upper left hand

corner shows how he appeared when our expedition reached Kiayukwan 124

55. The eight famous Churtons Kumbum, on the border of Tibet;

also the Temple of the Golden Roof 126

56. The Beautiful Bridge at Chinchow, the ancestral house of the

Chins 126

57. In Oldest China: Natives of the Ordos Country near Hwchi 131

58. A near view of the sealed Pass of Huangholu 133

59. The Great Wall north of Tsunhwafu 135

60. A section of the Northern Loop of the Great Wall 138

61. In the region of the Picturesque Pass. Superb view of the Great

Wall erected by the Emperor Wan Li at Chachienkow. The Wall follows the natural contour of the mountain 140

62. Photograph taken from a lofty elevation, showing the Terraced

Wall in the foreground, and the main line of the Great Wall on the sky line. Overlooking the Picturesque Pass, Chachienkow. Altitude 4,000 feet 142

63. The South Pagoda of Ninghia City of the Quiet Summer. Native

skill and artistic design united to produce this strictly oriental structure. Its size and decorations command the admiration of the beholder. Like all pagodas it has an odd number of stories 147

64. Spurs run off from the main line of the Great Wall to protect a

hill overlooking the east and west structure. The above is one

of many between the Yellow Sea and the Yellow River 149

65 One of the two large Pagodas of Liangchow, Kansu. This beauxiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS tiful bit of scenery is immediately in front of the Buddhist Convent of Nuns 156

66. At the famous Loma Pass in the Great Wall. Fortified Camp

in the Pass itself. Near Tsunhwachow 1S8

67. Arsenal Tower at the Chiankuling Pass 163

68. Section of a Tower 163

69. One of the beautiful Towers at Copper Green Pass 167

70. A famous opening in the Great Wall, the Loma Gate. The

fracture in the otherwise well preserved masonry is a relic

of an earthquake 167

71. The Great Wall as seen at the Narkow Pass, showing the Pa-ta-

ling Gate 170

72. Peculiar doubling of the Great Wall east of the Loma Pass.

Notice the entrance to the tower is through the inner port

cut down 174p

73. A very remarkable view of the Great Wall at Natzu Yu 179

74. A Fortified Farmhouse near Tu Nien Tse in the Province of

Kantsu 183

75. A Picturesque Pailo at Ynngchang Hsieu in Kansu Province 183

76. The Great Wall at the Shweikwan Pass. Notice the extraordinary

curve in the masonry and admire the grit and skill of the men who planned and built 186

77. A superb view of the lofty Huangholu Pass and environment... 190

78. I asked at Liangchow and words replied: "In the year of the

Mohammedan Rebellion the faces of the dead could not be recognized, so they collected the whitened bones and erected the White Bones Pagodas to remember them!" — Black Dog's Diary 195

79. The towers here have three sets of ports to each. There are battle-

ments on both sides as if to defend from friend or foe. East

of the YeUow River 197

80. A superb view of the Great Wall ascending from the lofty

Huangho Lu Pass 204

81. Two views of the same tower at Shichingtsi, Province of Kansu.

The pictures show how the Wall was joined on to the Towers 206

82. A Picturesque View 213

83. The Club House and Stock Exchange in Sianfu, where the ex-

change price of Silver is fixed every day 220

84. Two Memorial Arches near Sianfu, erected by Governor Lu, one

in honor of his mother, and the other in memory of his wife. Ten miles from the Mound of China 237

85. In the Loess Country, showing a new bridge constructed after

an ancient design of tied-loes? 231

86. Feng-huan-tai in Hsienyang, one of the oldest buildings in the

city. It was erected in honor of a Lady of the State of

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv

FACING FAGB

Chin, B.C. 897, who could blow the musical instrument called Siao. She was not to be given in marriage to any man who could not play the same instrument. Finally a poor man came who played the Siao. He was set to play three days and three nights, when the King of the Wind came and took them both away, no one knows where to this day. The father of the lady erected this Feng-heung-tai to her honor. . 334

87. Historical Bridge near Hsienyang, 10 li from the Ancient Capital

of Chin. The pillars are made of round stones similar to those used on threshing floors 338

88. A binary granite base resting on igneous rocks partially supports

a. Wall making an almost perpendicular ascent 346

89. The Good Luck Pailo which stands two li east of Kiayukwan, which

city is seen in the distance 353

90. The Last Gate of the doomed city of Ku Chang Tsi, situated

6S li west of Shan Tan, Kansu 362

91. A Picturesque Flour Mill at Shueimokwan, Kansu. Many of

these horizontal wheel constructions are seen in Northwest China 264

92. View of Chin An from Temple Hill 377

93. Ancient "Tower of Babel" Fort on the Great Wall near Yulinfu,

five days west of the Yellow River. The usual tower appears considerably out of repair, at the left of the picture. Sand has drifted over the Wall 384

94. Irrigating wheels in the Yellow River. Hoisting the water slightly

higher than the fields, it is led to the desired points by shallow trenches 307

95. An Evangelist of the China Inland Mission who labors near the

Great WaU 307

96. Two views of the ruins of the Tibetan or Sining Loop of the

Great Wall. This stretch does not appear on the present maps 318

97. The author's fast mule caravan crossing a desert stretch near the

Western End of the Great WaU 333

98. A Tibetan encampment of black tents as seen by the expedition

when on Taobo Shan, Northeastern Tibet 325

99. Henry French Ridley, hero of Singing in Tibetan Costume 332

100. This photograph of the modest but beautiful China Inland Mission

home at Chinchow was taken from the roof of the Church. . 334

101. Rubbings of two sides of the famous I Shan Tablet in the Forest

of Monuments, Sianfu, Shensi, China 339

102. Dr. Geil and one of his guides on the Ta Obo Shan in the Koko

Nor Country of Tibet 343

103. Northeast of the Thirteen Tombs. Showing double parapets for

reversible defense , 346 xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

104. Two Prominent Gentlemen of Northwest China 350

106. A Tibetan Prince 350

106. Kiayukwan and the Great Wall, as seen from the Southwest

desert 355

107. East Gate of the Suburb Kiayukwan, Western End of the Great

Wall 357

108. Inside the East Gate of Kiayukwan 359

109. Goitre is the "Disease of the Great Wall." Supposed to be caused

by impure water. Many persons are seen with it, among those living along the Wall 362

110. This tablet stands alone on the desert outside the west gate of

Kiayukwan, final fortification of China. "The Martial Barrier of all under Heaven" 364

111. The Big White North River. The western end of the Great Wall

is seen on the left abutting the verge of a perpendicular cliflf

some 200 feet high 366

113. The western end of the Great Wall overlooking the big White

North River 371

113. Newton Hayes, M.A 375

114. Shweikou in November 378

lis. The Magic Meteor, which deflected the Wall from its natural

course 378

116. "The Last Brick." Dr. Geil at the end of the Great Wall 382

CHAPTER I Merely Prelvminary

THERE IS A GREAT WALL OF CHINA.

So much the geographies tell everybody; but they do not make it clear whether it is built of china, or why it is, or how long it is, or how long it has been. There is developing a Panama Canal, and the journals are in ecstasy because a few billion cubic yards of earth are being moved. There was no steam machinery to build the Wall, yet General Grant estimated that it took as much work as would have built all our railroads, all our canals, and nearly all our cities. We have an ignorance about China almost as colossal as that land.

Our education consists, in part, of learning various languages, Thribbaty and Slapyak and other antique dialects which only introduce to hteratures whose very dregs have long since been examined to the last ounce. Why not try Chinese for a change? then we might find out what we have long borrowed from the Central Kingdom, and what else it has to pass on to us. They are widening their curriculum, why should not we widen ours?

Chin took a liberal view of education, and was anticlassic. He destroyed the old books, and so encouraged one of his generals to invent a new style of writing, which brought books within the reach of all, both to compose and to read. This was the Chin who built the

Wall. He defended his country, he unified it, he refonned its education. He stands preeminent in the same class with Peter the Great, Alfred the Great, Bismark. Only these men of heroic mould too often stunt originality in others, so that no successor arises to carry on their work. Chin was great enough to know himself great. He was equal to at least two men, so began his allocutions "We." Nowadays every petty journalist counts himself one, and his press another, so that they talk as We.

The Wall is the product of Chin. He built roads over his new domains, he put the scholars low and the farmers high. The land that produced one Chin may produce another. One built a Wall to keep the foreigner out; another may stride over that Wall to put the foreigner in his proper place. Iran had a long turn at leading the world, Egypt another; Europe has had several centuries as peace-maker and now begins to feel tired. Will America or China jostle to the front next? The nation is astir and gaining momentum. Will it find a chauffeur able to grasp the wheel?

THE GREAT WALL SEPARATES TWO EPOCHS, TWO LANDS, TWO RACES.

It separates the age of myth from the age of fact. While it is not true that everything in China before the Great Wall is prehistoric yet its builder dehberately did his best to destroy the records of earlier ages, and so far succeeded that the piecing together of the relics is often a true Chinese puzzle.

But the blow dealt at literature brought a reaction.

When you help, help effectively ; when yon rescue, make rescue real.

and scholars enshrined in multitudinous documents the doings of subsequent rulers, so that the clear hght of history shines on every succeeding age. The Chinese know the course of events so accurately that they can afford to smile at the western conceptions of their annals. Hear the Relation of Pinto: "In one single prison two leagues square, are kept three hundred thousand prisoners, appointed still for the repair of the Great Wall. . . . The king of Tartary sat down before Peking with one million two hundred thousand foot, six hundred thousand horse, seventeen thousand ships, and eighty thousand rhinoceroses that carried the baggage for his army." The veracious Pinto got his information from the French, certainly not from the Chinese. Mendoza, too, has a fine idea of the size of Peking, asserting that a man mounted on a good horse riding from morn until night wiU have much ado to cross the city within the walls. Such fables might amuse the credulous Spaniards and Portuguese, but the Wall marks off the period of myth for the Chinese, and since its time abundant facts have been accessible to all.

The Wall separates two lands. To the cold north lie lands that may tempt the miner in search of gold, or the breeder who desires wide prairies for his mares to roam over. To the south are sunnier lands whose fertUity encourages the agriculturalist to delve in the rich soil and extract abundant crops.

The Wall separates two races. To the south is the black-haired race, as its members term themselves, but to us their outstanding mark is that they are yellow. To the north may now be found the outward-flowing white race. The destinies of the world are committed to these two. The business of the globe will be transacted in the tongue of one or the other. But the religion of the world, the gift of neither, may yet be the heritage of both. Born in Asia, adopted in Europe, developed in America, Christianity is found by one who travels along the Great Wall a potent force in these regions. Here the aboriginal code is effete, the Indian Buddhism is degenerate, but faith in Christ can nerve the frail to endurance and victory.

The Wall is the sign of separation; the Cross, of imion. The one is the greatest monument of human industry, the other of divine love. The one, though obsolete, has a noble history; the other has its noblest triumphs yet to come, though already it commemorates the greatest sacrifice of all ages.

Wm. Edgar Geil.

Doylestown, Pennsylvania, United States of America,

Seventh Day of the 9th Moon of

the Best Year of the Christian Cycle. . .

CHAPTER II The Thrilling Prospect

A journey all along the Great Wall ! We had longed to make it, and now almost feverishly eager, we had arrived at the City of the Golden Gate to find the great black ocean greyhound with her strong sinews relaxed, taking a good rest in one of the kennels ofF the San Francisco pier. The monstrous ship was coaling up for the long run and there was only the suggestion of a quiver in the mighty muscles. But we knew that the powerful heart, now merely quivering, was purposely inactive for the nonce; soon it would begin to beat and pump life, energy and activity into every part of her mighty organism, and drive her huge bulk through the crested bUlows, niUy-willy — in sunshine and storm toward the one object of our intense desire — ^the Great Wall of China — and that we would be on board!

And then when a few days after, the stately steamer drew grandly out from the wharf and that ceaseless heart throb of the engines began, our thoughts ran ahead and outpaced even her wondrous speed; their drift was just parallel to the thoughts of a man mightier than most men, an emperor of indomitable will and resistless push, who lived hundreds of years before this trans- Pacific muscle of navigation was invented — ^before Christ was born. We were actually going to see the monumental evidence of his masterly activity! Not only to see it but to walk on it, explore it, over hill, down dale, along the tortuous alignment, from start to finish. Our unshaken determination was to do the work thoroughly, not as the superficial traveler who ate lunch on the structure and then took ship and wrote an account of the Great WaU on board for the delectation and enhghtenment of an ignorant public, but so complete that the future historian of the Wall would find little to write about unless he pirated our notes. By dint of perseverance and some hardship perhaps, we expected to make certain discoveries that would benefit not only our own people but indirectly the unconquerable yellow race, now fully awake and advancing by leaps and bounds toward rank materialism or toward Christianity, as our readers shall choose.

Many objects in China, of decent antiquity, carrying traditions of uncanny ha,ppenings, are said by the Chinese people to chen ching, or be haunted. The statement has never been made so far as we know but it must be so a fortiori^, that the very ancient Wall of China is also haunted in various places. The thought occurred to us that we might set in motion among the Chinese a new tradition — everything must have a start, even a tradition — about a wild western man of prodigious height and bulksome weight who traversed the brick pile of Chin. Then we pictured to our mind the myth, ripe with age, as the chihads advanced — a huge specter one hundred feet high striding half a mile at a step along the northern frontier, to the consternation of the populace!

Obversely, as a matter of fact, the Wall haunted us.

mmTm ^

Adapt the remedy to the disease.

Whether the ship cut the brine in midocean or rested in the peaceful bosom of fair Hawaii, whether she plunged madly to be free from anchor in a less placid harbor or shook herself from moorings for a last long run through a stormy main to Yokohama, it made no difference; there was the 1,200 miles of Wall, instinct with hfe, always present in our brain. We could not rid ourself of it. Thoughts of self, the presidential election, the Balkan volcano muttering and smoking, or even the peaceful meadow brooks of Doylestown, Pennsylvania, were sternly debarred. We ate with the Wall, slept with the Wall, thought WaU. Its bricky length would twist itself into indescribable shapes — into pecular contortions. We fancied an immense arch from sea to desert and under it the great events that have shaped and re-shaped this planet earth, changes that have transmuted the world Uke the changes in a panorama or that have delineated the earth with ineradicable marks. The Roman Empire at the acme of its pomp and power under the indomitable Julius just tottering to ebb and ruin, the beginnings of Britain and all the now powerful states of Europe, the great battles that are written in history and hundreds more unwritten conflicts on the field when blood flowed like water in agonizing contests for supremacy; battles of books and brains, smash-ups of empires, discoveries of continents, of true science to be substituted for sorcery, astrology, alchemy, with the whole progeny of Black Art. And under the arch, too, stood out prominently in bold relief the cross of Christ. Then suddenly, as if by magic, appeared the Wall in belted form, inclosing in a crowded area the graves of the mighty in all lands, crumbled to dust long ago, while the bricks of Chin Shih Huang stiU cohere ; silent witnesses to a splendid logical fact that these dead, inanimate things cannot outlive the minds and souls of the men who contrived them. Bricks and bones must crumble away like everything else sublunary, but the mental machine that brought such things as the Great Wall to pass can never moulder and rot.

Thus the Wall danced before us in ever-varying shapes, now rolling itself together like a scroll, now stretching itself out to its fuU length, again resolving itself into all sorts of geometrical figures, — triangles, parallelograms, circles, — ^until we could almost fancy the Wall to be some agile imp playing hide and seek in our imagination, instead of the great structure that some lunar inhabitant might see like a black welt across the face of the earth.

Things that exist in idea must exist in re. As those shadowy ghosts leaped before us we realized that phantoms would develop into facts, and that an actual Wall would soon materialize. Then the ship reached Yokohama. We disembarked mechanically, but no sooner had we set foot on terra firma than the whole enterprise became real. Two tablets appeared to our mind, one at Shanhaikwan at the eastern end of the waU, the other at Kiayiikwan, twelve hundred miles farther on toward sunset. On the one was inscribed, "Heaven (God) made the Sea and the Mountains," on the other, "The Martial Barrier of All under Heaven."

As the traveler steps ashore on trans-Mississippi

Men, not walls, make a city.

ground at New Orleans he sees at the station of the Southern Pacific Railway a large arch bearing this legend, "Sunset Route." After days of travel through desert and wood on the splendid overland mail train he alights at Oakland, California, he beholds a similar arch with the same letters in semicircular form. These two arches terminate the parallel bars of steel which engirdle, in part, the lands on which the peaceful inhabitants of our beloved America dwell. Here on the Uttoral of the Far East, which was to be our terminus a quo, was a tablet instead of an arch, terminating a mighty embankment instead of steel rails, conceived before the Christian era by one who acknowledged High Heaven as the creator of the unnavigated seas, and the builder of the massive rock piles that frown on little frail man, on the frontiers of China!