Twelve years in China; the people, the rebels, and the mandarins

Front matter

w^^mM

CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION

CHINA AND THE CHINESE

Preface

In the absence of public information regarding late events in China, excepting from persons whose views would naturally, if not inevitably, be affected by the policy adopted by our Grovernment, it seems to me a duty, in the present crisis, to narrate my experience during a residence of twelve years in that country, and the opinions I was led to form. In the light in which events appeared to me, they assumed a very different colour from that in which they have been painted by others.

The "Foreign Factories" at Canton, on my first arrival there in 1847, were enlivened by the presence of some of the troops forming part of the expedition hazarded by Sir John Davis to obtain the fulfilment of Treaty-rights. The chief results of that demonstration were the building of a church and parsonage, and the closing of a disagreeable thoroughfare called Hog Lane. More important advantages were obtained upon paper, but owing to the faithlessness of Chinese officials they remained documentary. The parsonage was blown up at the destruction of the Factories ; the church was pulled down by the Chinese when the gardens were evacuated for the better concentration of the small force under Sir Michael Seymour; and Hog Lane was re-

VI PREFACE.

opened over the site of the church, forming a melancholy pathway through the scene of desolation which marked the position of our famous old residences at Canton when I left China in 1859.

During the interval many interesting events occurred ; some of these will be described in the following pages, la pursuit of business and health, or impelled by curiosity, I saw more of the country and people than has fallen to the lot of most foreign residents in China. As I give some account of my experience in the following pages, the reader will be enabled to judge whether my opinion is of value. It is quite possible for a person to reside long in China, and yet know very little about it : even the best informed has much to learn. Native society is so constituted, that the people themselves are very ignorant upon many points relating to their country.

I do not consider Government interpreters the best authorities on Chinese affairs ; much of their time is talten up in studying old classics and official forms, and a gteat deal of their information is derived from native teachers, who are frequently spies of the mandarins.

During my residence in China, the empire has been disturbed by two distinct rebellions. Too little attention has been paid to these ; the map which accompanies this volume will show how extensive they have been. One body of rebels proclaimed Christianity and the overthrow of idolatry, but as their doctrines were mingled with much error, and they pressed their religion by the power of the sword, it is natural that, however much Christian missionaries might hope for good to arise from the movement, they could not approve the acts of

PREFACE. vil

the insurgents. No attempt was made to remove their errors and to teach them truth ; the Bible they repubh"shed has therefore been left unheeded among the mass of rubbish by which it was surrounded. Neutrality during the civil war was proclaimed by the British Government, but has not been adhered to.

A British plenipotentiary, it must be remembered, had to take into consideration, that anarchy might endanger the vast revenue derived from tea-duties ; and that as the Insurgents at first punished opium-smoking by death, the large revenue derived from that source would have been lost had they gained the ascendency. Besides, our late plenipotentiaries have derived most of their information regarding political matters in China from one source. Mr. Wade has been their adviser and interpreter, and he cannot be considered impartial, having at one time held an appointment in the service of the Chinese Government. Lord Elgin availed himself of the services of Mr. Lay to assist Mr. Wade, though the former held at the time the post in the Chinese service vacated by the latter. I quite approve of the appointment they held in the Chinese service, but regret that Lord Elgin had not other assistance.

Our own advantage has been the regulating principle of our policy ; we make exactions when it suits us, and do not enforce them when inconvenient. Our diplomacy has resulted in confusion worse confounded ; we shall have probably now to overthrow a Government which we have been endeavouring to support. The empire is too weak to bear the double evil of foreign invasion and civil strife. Had we been more considerate in our de-

VIU PKEFACE.

mauds upon the Government, and tried to do some good to the people, we should now have less to deplore. Little can be said in favour of the mandarins; the people deserve better rulers.

When I first thought of publishing my views on China, shunning notoriety, I intended to let them go forth anonymously ; but I find that there are various matters on which I differ from other writers on recent events, — and that regarding events of such importance, that if any additional consideration can be obtained for my remarks by adopting a difierent course, it is only right that I should make them openly. I am confident in my own opinion ; and though I have such distinguished men as Sir John Bowring and Lawrence Oliphant as my opponents, I cast these notes upon the general current of public opinion, hoping that if there is truth in them, it may drift into some powerful channel, and lead to greater results than my efforts single-handed are likely to attain.

As it is yet possible that the threatened war with China may be averted, this does not appear to be the time for discussing future operations should they ultimately be necessary. Publicity in such matters should be avoided. When it was considered necessary that Canton should be taken, as I was well acquainted with the neighbourhood of the city, and knew the style of defence adopted by Yeh when the rebels attacked the place, I made out a plan of the environs, giving roads, elevations, &c., on a large scale, described the whole, and the best point of attack to two of the principal officers, and placed the plan in the hands of the authorities.

PREFACE.

IX taking care to mention nothing of the affair to any one else. The attack was conducted almost in exact accordance with the plan, and the loss of life, numerically, was very small. A different result might have ensued had the plan been publicly discussed.

These frequent wars in China are dangerous; the Chinese learn the art of warfare by experience. Every succeeding quarrel with them is likely to be more serious than its predecessor, and it must always be borne in mind that their climate is as powerful an enemy as their soldiers.

John Scaeth.

EDiNBnRGH, February 1860.

Costumes, Mainland near Hong-Kong.

" THE PLAN TO PUESUE IN CHINA IS THIS : DARE TO ACT HONESTLY, AND DARE TO TELL THEM TRUTH."

Wingrove Coohe.

Contents

FAGB

Introductort Notice, ...... 1

Chapter I. Silk Districts Of China

Departure from Shanghai — A metamorphosis — Province of Che-Kiang — Variety of boats — Peculiar mode of catching fish — Prodigious population — A hint to high farmers at home — City of Kia-Hing— Mulberry leaves — Large factories rare in China — Distrust of assemblages of men — Chinese gambling — The author roughly handled — Eeeling of silk — Various kinds — Large exportation — Native manufacture defective — Its antiquity — The wild worm — A French savant — Chinese cliildren precociously sedate, . 5

CHAPTEE IL

JOtJKNETS IN THE COUNTRY. ,

Meeting with Mr. Fortune, the Chinese traveller, at T'heen-Tung — His good humour and curiosity — Insect-hunting — Promise and disappointment — A priest and pale ale — The Temple in decay — Petty pilgrimages — A laughing devotee — SUk-throwing in the Temple, 16

CHAPTER IIL

JOUKNEYS IN THE COUNTRY.

Chapoo — Trade with Japan — A mandarin " know-nothing "—A beau- , tiful hawk — The sporting gentleman — Kite-flying — An empty shot — Adventure with a pirate-junk — Treacherous steersman — Trick with the compass — The soup drugged — Aroused to danger — Presence of mind — Danger averted by knowledge ;of the language — Necessity of encouraging its study, . . . .20

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CHAPTER IV.

FAGB

Amoy, its forbidding aspeci>-The home of the missionary— Tradition of the Eocli;— Eelish for traditions— Eide by the gun battery- Maries left by H. M. ship Cornwallis— Temple of Lampooto— Hospitalities— Dislilie of cold drinks— Rongh riding— White graves- Temple of the White Stag— Pony race upstairs— Fine view— Euined villages — A washerman in petticoats— Koolangsoo — Sad effects of civil war- Early deaths of British chaplains— Trade of Amoy — Frequent disturbances — Aborigines of Formosa — Their ferocity— A Yankee exhibited by a Chinese Bamnm, . . 28

CHAPTER V.

POOOHOW-FOO.

Poochow-foo — Its important foreign trade — Chinese honesty — Beauty of the city — A quaint old chronicle — Takiug portraits — Good female sitters— Small feet not general — Tartar women— Tartar soldiers inferior to Chinese — Bow and arrow practice — Feats of strength — Fishing with cormorants — Its dangers — Poetical names of places — British consulate — Obstacles to foreigners obtaining land — A mandarin and his tail — Processions shabby and grand — Places worth visiting — Hot springs and tea-houses — Hot -baths — Scanty ablutions, ...... 37

CHAPTER VI.

Swatow — Its late rise into importance — Numerous wells — Primitive sugar-making — ^Waste and loss, yet extraordinary cheapness of production — Eival clans and predatory expeditions — Excess of males over females — Fine appearance of the men — Eating mandarins — A sketch — Shaking hands— A little rebellion and a great tragedy — Differences in manners and customs — Theatrical entertainment — A peep behind the scenes — Second visit to the theatre — The audience and the actors — An agreeable family — A Catholic missionary, ..... . , .47

CHAPTER VII.

NORTH-EAST PART OF KWANQ-TUNG.

North-east part of Kwang-Tung — Chaou-Chaou-Foo, a Quixotic expedition—Stuck fast in mud — Mocking Birds— Bel-flshers — Sledge-

CONTENTS. xni racing over mud— Launched again — Disturbed appearance of tlio country — Fighting preparations — Hoong-lo-Chee — Poultice verstis Precipitate — Young Braves and ladies — Opium-smoking — Civility of the people — Their surprise at first seeing foreigners — Predominance of males — A beauty — Uses of a sketch-book — Mountain view — Opium-dealerSj . . . . . .63

CHAPTER VIII.

KELIQION IN CHINA.

Religion in China — Statements of Hue and Meadows — Enlightened Chinese not idolaters — Taouist traditions regarding the Messiah — Rise of Buddhism — Belief in Supreme Being — Religion founded in fear — Injudicious proceedings of missionaries — Buddhist priests — Three classes of Buddhists — Idols — No State religion under existing dynasty — Supremacy of the Emperor — Taouist priests — Pretty temple — Religious offering — An emperor's definition of worship, . 74

CHAPTER X.

CHAKACTEE OF THE CHINESE.

First impressions corrected — Chinese character opposite to that of Europeans — Chinese school-book — The new religion taught bythe Rebels — Fundamental principles of the old faith contrary to that of Christianity — Official rank open to all — Rule regarding mandarins — ^Indifference to circumstances — Potted ancestors — Coffins for the living — Hired mourners — The famine at Shanghai — Stories of infanticide exaggerated — A tower full of bodies — Disreputable nuns — Canton fire-brigade— Stoicism of Chinese undergoing sentence of death — Suicide by order — Strange mixture of qualities, . 95

CHAPTER XI.

TRUSTWOBTHIHBSS OF THE CHINESE.

Cheating honestly— The compradore— Honesty of ser\'ant3— Mercantile integrity— Chops of tea— Coolies, their fidelity— Open exposure of property- A pickpocket— Pawnbroklng— No native gold or silver coin— Unwritten agreements faithfully observed^Rarity of drunkenness—Eyes and tails— Costumes— Chinese cotton goods— Dress of coolies— Fishermen— Perfection in matters of utility— Cooking by steam— Healthiness of the people— Medical treatment— Monkey-soup, - ■ • • ' -^"^ xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

PAG£

Chinese character— Chinese witness— Value of knowing the language —Great want of interpreters- Chinese employed hy Europeans— Their satisfactory conduct— Chinese "Sepoys"— Growing rapidity of communication with Europe, . . ■ • -124

CHAPTEE XIII.

THE MAHDABINS.

Emperoi-'s description of his oflcers— Wickedness and baseness of the mandarins— Ho-Kwan's prodigious gains — Other degraded mandarins—The Fooohow bank failure — Wholesale execution of angry creditors — ^Murder of Englishmen — Attack on missionaries— Resolute conduct of the British Consul — Supported by a British naval captain — The offenders delivered up — Accounts of mandarins punished — The conduct of soldiery at Shanghai — A Chinese admiral pockets pay and avoids fighting — A Chinese battle a farce — Missionary hospitals, ; . . . • . 131

CHAPTER XIV.

PEISONS AND PUNISHMENT.

Horrors of a Chinese prison — Prisoners nailed together — Prisoner in a cage — Starving to death — An address to the throne — Salutary .interference of Lord Elgin — Instances of fatal effects of ill-usage — Various kinds of tortiire — Imitation of offioial cruelty — A poor wretch saved — Curious customs regarding wives — Deliberate act of vengeance — ^Other instances of the lilje kind — Flogging big boys — A servant flogging his master — More cruelties — Life for life — Gods in the rain, ...... 145

CHAPTER XV.

THE INSUEBECTION.

Frequency of former revolutions — Peculiar character of the actual insurrection — New kind of Christianity — Scepticism of foreigners regarding the religions character of the movement — Same feeling on the part of officials exposed and condemned — Difficulty of arriving at truth — Two distinct rebellions — The Triads — The Dagger-men — Mode of recognition — Secret societies dreaded by

CONTENTS. XV

PAGE

the mandarins — The English war and the internal troubles — Forces on paper — Volunteers — Amour not love — Origin of insurrection—The first converts— Effect of a missionary's tract- Preaching of Hung-siu-tsuen— Pung-yun-san's first congregation —Religious helief— Yang, the eastern king— Obligation on Cliristians to consider the religious movement in China — Unjust interference of foreigners, . . 15j

CHAPTER XVI.

TAI-PING-WANG AND THE INSUEBECTION.

Tai-ping-wang and the progress of the insurrection — Who was the first rebel chief? — Teen-teh's execution — Connexion of the Tai-ping movement with secret societies — The different leaders — Dead alive — Repression of vice in the rebel camp — Christian doctrines — Blasphemous assumptions of titles by rebel chiefs, and other anomalies, explained- Exaggerated accusations — Expected results of the movement, . . . . 162

CHAPTER XVII.

THE MARCH ON PEKIN.

The march on Pekiu — Scarcity of grain excites anxiety in the capital — First success of the insurgents — Favourable disposition of the people— Several towns captured — Jews of Kai-Pung — Panic in Pekin — Siege of Hwui-king— A descendant of Confucius slain by the insurgents — This event serves the Imperialists — Frequent defeats of the latter— Movements of the Insurgents — Curious exposure of the sta,te of the empire by a Chinese official— Anger of the Government— Difficulty of obtaining contributions — Odd expedients to raise money — Poverty of the Government, and its possible results, . ..... 170

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE AMOT REBELS.

Movement not connected with Tai-ping-wang — Admiral Ma-gay ; his history — Cruelties of the Imperialists — Humane interference of English officers — A Chinese trial — An affecting incident — Battles arranged beforehand— Death of Ma-gay — The innocent and guilty punished alike— Rebels saved by a British ship, . . 181

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE REBELS AT SHAMGHAI.

Shanghai seized hy a secret sooiety--Docile character of the citizens— Tai-ping-wang acknowledged ^Foreign property respected — A heroine — The siege operations — Singular details— A conchologist — Two marine deserters — Curious contrivances — Conspiracies in the city — Picturesque costumes — Rebels' penal code — Motley arms —Silk armour— Desire for rank — Bribery — The leaders described, 18

CHAPTER XX.

THE EKENCH ATTACK ON SHANGHAI.

Proposals to the rebels by Admiral Stirling and Sir John Bowring— Their unfortunate failure — The French resolve on picking a quarrel with the rebels — Hostilities commence — Imperialists attack at the same time — The author ventures into the beleaguered city — Preliminary politeness imder difficulties — State of affairs within — Resolution to resist the French — Interview with the chief — Harmless shells — Return with answers — Objections on points of form — Another visit to the city — Camp-bearers of the chiefs — Dresses worse for wear and warfare — Wadded armour — The chiefs changed appearance — Diplomacy nearly baffled by a green-tea broker — Agreement at length signed — Foreigners in rebel pay —The French Admiral implacable^-A skirmish — Another venture into the city, and offer of submission to the three Treaty powers brought back — French proclaim a strict blockade — Firing at an old woman — City bombarded — The great assault — The Imperialist assault — ^The Imperialists repulsed — French retreat — Boldness of the rebels — Attempt to starve the city — Pair treatment of prisoners by the rebels — Visit to the woundedi-Chinese — Further and more fortunate communications with the rebel chief — Agreement to surrender made nugatory by the perverseness of the French admiral — Last efforts of the rebels — Entry of the Imperialists, who set fire to the city — Horrible atrocities — Thejmaie, . . 19

CHAPTER XXI.

SIEGE OE CANTON BY THE TRIADS.

Heads and ears — A walk round Canton — Miserable appearance of the place — The braves — Author visits head-quarters — The commander and his crew — Appearance of the rebel army — The combat — Imperialists retreat — Lies of the Pekin Gazette — Extraordinary cow-

CONTENTS. XVU

PAGE

ardice— A charge with an umbrella— Mandarins' fear of the people retaliating the iniquities of their rulers — Closeness of the blockade — Ingeniously- conveyed despatches from the rebels — Executions— Attempts at visiting the rebels' camp — Odd artillery practice — The soldiers destroy what the rebels spare — Popularity of the rebel cause — Partial proceedings of the English in support of the governing powers — No means of opening comiaunication with the rebels — Wide spread of the insurrection — The " Avenger of Sorrow" — Fearful scenes — Rising en masse — Defeat and reaction — A million perish in the province of Canton within a year, . 220

CHAPTER XXII.

EVENTS ON THE COAST OF CHINA.

Glance at the Chinese naval history — Marauding bands stop supplies to Canton, and cause deep distress — The Chinese admiral ordered to break the blockade — His imbecUity — Rebels' blockade extended — Rebel fleet never molested foreign vessels — Proof to the contrary never shown — Vessels unjustly declared piratical — Instances of foreign vessels set free after seizure — British ships chartered to protect junks — Questionable attack by British ships — Destruction of rebel ships — An awkward en-or — Homicide by misadventure — Curious artifice — Heads and cocoa-nuts — Instances of unfair treatmeat of Chinese vessels — Question of the right of a Foregn Government to destroy the fleets of the Insurgents — Defence set np examined — A claim for British law against British might — Great strength of the Insurgents — Author's motives for urging inquiry — Supported by instances of inconsiderate condemnation, . . 241

CHAPTER XXIII.

CHINESE EMIGRATION.

Chinese in California and Australia — Travelling corrects prejudices — Hard usage of Chinese insurgents — Cheerfulness at sea — Horror of burial at sea — Sharp dealing of a Yankee captain — Unfair treatment of coolies — Difficulty of procuring them at present— Description of coolies on board — Effect of good and of ill treatment upon them — Traits of character — Chinese prejudices not 'corrected by what they see abroad, ..... 254

CHAPTER XXIV.

CRISIS as THE INaUEBBOTION.

Leaning of the English authorities to the mandarins, and to the maiutenance of the Imperial government — Gross error of the English h

XVIU CONTENTS.

PA

in not recognising the Christian element that animated the Chinese rebellion — Lord Elgin's policy biassed by the one-sided view of his interpreters — Sir J.(Bowring's policy determined by the belief that British commerce with China depends upon the maintenance of the present dynasty — Difficulty of promulgating Christianity — Mr. Wade's animosity to the rebels contrasted with the opinions of others — Improbability of Lord Elgin's expedition up the Yangtsze-Kiang being useful at present — A convincing proof given of the non-existence of the neutrality which had been proclaimed, . 2

CHAPTER XXV.

THE DISPUTE WITH TEH.

What lorchas are — Affair of the " An'ow" — Misunderstanding occasioned by want of interpreters — Stubbornness of Yeh — Sir Michael Seymour insists on an interview — Forces his way to Yeh's residence — The latter not at home— Yeh quarrels with the American Commodore, who retaliates by destroying some forts — Author's visit to Canton — The people not against us — ^AU against Yeh — Fort captured by the British — Goodwill of the people — Burning of the Factories— Great efforts to subdue the fire — Burning of the Bank — Mr. Lane of the consulate killed — One house escaped being burnt —A friendly community broken up — War confined to the Canton waters — Honest conduct of Chinese merchants — The poisoned bread — Exaggeration on the subject corrected, . :

CHAPTER XXVI.

LORD ELQm'S MISSION AMD ITS EESULTS.

Troops of the Chinese expedition required for India — French Alliance — Instructions to Lord Elgin-^The opium trade — ^Proper course to pursue in China — Lord Elgin disregards instructions, and Mr. Lay gets promotion — Correspondence with Chinese ofiicials — Attack ordered — Successful capture of the Takoo forts — The treaty signed — Unjust attack on Sir M. Seymour by Lord Elgin's secretary — Opinion of the foreign community in China— The expedition up the Yang-tsze-kiang— Remarks upon it— Conclusion,

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Lithographs.

Title-page— Our Enemies in China.

i-At.

Silk-reeling, Che-kiang, .....

Fooohow, Fokien, .....

Foochow Women, Fokien, .....

Costumes— Swatow, Kwang-Timg,

Macao,

Chair Coolies, .

Children,

Eebels at Shanghai,

Soldiers at Canton,

The Dutch Folly, ...

Map of the Chinese Eebellion.

Wood Engea vinos.

Costumes, Mainland near Hong-Kong, — Cotton Weeder, Kiangsoo, .

Woosung River, „ Female Labourers, ,, Amoy, from White Stag Temple, Fokien, Theatricals at Masoo, Kwang-Tung, - Baby Tower, Shanghai, Kiangsoo, Caught Napping, Kwang-Tung, A Chinese Scull, Kiangsoo, Bridge at the Hills, Kiangsoo, Bridge near Shanghai, Kiangsoo, War Charger, Slow but Sure, Chinese Plough, Chinese Warrior, .

IX

6. 15 32 57

TWELVE YEAES IN CHINA.

INTRODUCTORY NOTICE.

Though there have been many works published regarding China, very little has been told compared with what may yet be related concerning this extraordinary portion of the globe, and its still more extraordinary people.

The writings of Davis, Williams, Meadows, Fortune, Cooke, &c., have done much to bring the Chinese into notice, and the peculiar character of the principal insurrection has also attracted attention to the country. The dispute with Yeh brought Chinese affairs prominently forward, but public attention was still more strongly directed to China when the disastrous news arrived of the unfortunate defeat at Takoo. War with China, upon a more extended scale than was ever before contemplated, appears inevitable. As the subject is therefore likely to be interesting to many, and as I am not aware of any mercantile man having published any narrative of Chinese affairs, perhaps the views of such a one may, from this different light, form almost a new picture. Most of the books upon China have been written by men of official position — by missionaries and by persons who have seen but little of the natives in

A

^ INTKODUCTOKT NOTICE.

daily general intercourse : the official stands upon his dignity and goes through the tedious forms of stiff diplomatic visits now and then ; most of his information is derived from people who are devoted to the mandarins ; the missionary has better opportunities, mixes more with the people, and bis informants are less connected with the ruling authorities, but, from his position, he sees the Chinese in a different light to most other observers. He endeavours to impress upon his Chinese hearers, in language which they often do not clearly understand, maxims they care little for, and gospel truths which they do not believe. Time, however, is improving these things, and ere long, we may look for some very interesting work from one or other of the intelligent missionaries who have lately done much to open up the country around Shanghai.

There is a great portion of the veil which envelops China still unrent, and there is much to be said to the good people of England regarding the position of foreigners in China.

In treating of the Chinese people, I have been guided chiefly by my own experience during a residence of more than twelve years. In commenting upon public affairs, I have endeavoured to make use of the most reliable sources of information.

The sketches in the following pages are gathered from a host of drawings made in different excursions ; their only recommendation is that they are tolerably faithful, though the costumes may often differ from pre-conceived notions of the Chinese. It is with much diffidence I place before the public my personal adventures, in the hope that the book may lead some to think better of the Chinese as a people, and less highly of the mandarins and officials than they did before.

INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. 3

la my tours I confine myself chiefly to what 1 saw of the people, and purposely have not given descriptions of places which have already been visited and described by foreigners. In such scenes as have not been previously described by others, I have given notes of what I saw.

Cotton Weeder.

CHAPTER I.

SILK DISTRICTS OF CHINA.

Departure from Shanghai — A metamorphosis— Province of Che-Kiang— Variety of boats — Peculiar mode of catching fish— Prodigious population— A hint to high farmers at home— City of Kia-Hing — Mulberry leaves- Large factories rare in China — Distrust of assemblages of men — Chinese gambling — The author roughly handled — Eeeling of silk — Various kinds — Large exportation — Native manufacture defective — Its antiquity — The wild worm — A French savant — Chinese children precociously sedate.

In the spring of 1848, when few had extended their journeys to any great distance, I set off from Shanghai, accompanied by my Chinese teacher, a Singapore Chinese, as interpreter in case of diflSculty, and a barber, who also acted as cook. My object being to see the country as well as could be without interruption, and to penetrate as far as possible into the silli districts, 1 adopted the Chinese dress, and after getting fairly under way, metamorphosed myself into a Chinaman, set the barber to work to make a clean sweep of my hair, and, attached to my cap, wore a thorough-bred tail of some son of Han, shaded the natural colour of my barbarian eyes by a huge pair of tea-stone spectacles, and marched forth without fear of recognition.

On entering the province of Che-Kiang, we came upon the first line of mulberry trees. The leaves of many had been partially stripped, and the stunted branches bore a strong resemblance to leper's fingers.

It was here the tide appeared to end. The banks of the canal were not much above the level of the water, ex cept where mulberry plantations lined the margin of th stream. Wild strawberries were just beginning to bud and the rich yellow of the vast fields of a species of pe; enriched the view to a grand extent. The people use( a different build of boat to what I had been accustomei to see ; and I have since noticed that in the variou provinces there is a great dissimilarity in the craf employed on the water. In Kiang-soo, which is inter laced by a complete network of large canals, the boat are broad and roomy, most comfortable for travelling w perfectly snug ; and the better kinds make capita places of residence for a long trip, — ^it is like takinj your house with you. I had two with me, that in casi one were stopped I might get off in the other.

In Che-Kiang the boats are built narrow and flat sided, to go through the sluices that are frequent ii that province. The wide streams of Canton boast o many descriptions, admirably adapted for all purposes In Pokien we get out of the cotton region, and find ma sails in general use. The rapid streams in the north- o

STRANGE MODE Of FISHING. 7

that part of China require the boats to be made of a peculiar form, and an immense plank is placed far out of the stem of each, to act as a powerful rudder to aid the helmsman to twist the boat quickly from threatened dangers in the noisy rapids. It requires no small nerve to steer them evenly through the gaps in the far-famed bridge of Foo-chow-fou, where the tide runs like a millrace, and has often a drop perpendicularly of several feet. The Kwangsi boats that come to Canton have to pass sluices which must be very steep, for the bows are made long and flat, at an angle of 45° from the floor, so as to form a guard to the boats rushing bodily under the water when launched down the sluice. Before reaching the city of Kia-Ching the first bridge is passed since we left Shanghai, — a fine granite arch rising boldly far above the plain. The canal then takes a direct line to the city, the long perspective view being ended by a beautiful pagoda rising up at the termination of a long vista of mulberry plantations which line the water highway on each side.