Our next-door neighbor : a winter in Mexico

Front matter

CORNELL

UNIVERSITY

LIBRARY

II. A Day In Yucatan

The First-born. — An Opportunity accepted. — An Index Point. — Cocoa-nut Milk. — The Market-place. — Euchre as a Food. — A Grave Joke. — The Drink of the Country. — The Cocoa Palm. — The Native Dress. — A Hacienda. — A Pre-adamite Haciendado. — Jenequen. — Prospecting. — Almost a Panic. — Done into Rhyme 25

III. The Sea-port

Under the Cocoa-nut Palm. — The Plaza. — The Cathedral. — No Distinction on account of Color either in Worshiper or Worshiped. — The Watering-place of Cortez. — How the Palm looks and grows. — Other Trees of the Tropics. — Home Flowers. — July Breakfast in January. — Per Contra, a Norther. — Its Utility. — Harbor and Fort. — Size and Shape of the City. — Its Scavenger. — Its Houses. — Street Life. — The Lord's Day. — First Protestant Service. — The Railroad Inauguration 36

IV. The Hot Lands

From Idleness to Peril. — Solitud. — Chiquihuiti. — Tropical Forests. — The Falls of Atoyac. — Wild Beasts non sunt. — Cordova and its Oranges. — Mount Orizaba.— Fortin 55

V. On The Stage

Our Companions. — Vain Fear. — The Plunge. — Coffee Haciendas. — Peon Life. — Orizaba City. — The Mountain -lined Passway. — The Cumbres. — The Last

CONTENTS.

Smile of Day and the Hot Lands.— Night and Useless Terror.—" Two-o'clockin-the-morning Courage."— Organ Cactus.— Sunrise.— The Volcano.— Into Puebla and the Cars.— The three Snow-peaks together. — Epizaco. — Pulqui. — " There is Mexico !" Page 65

Book Ii.—in And Around The Capital. I

FIRST WEEK IN THE CAPITAL.

Hotel Gillow.— Cost of Living.— The Climate.— Lottery-ticket Venders.— First Sabbath. — First Protestant Church. — A Praise Meeting. — State of the Work. —The Week of Prayer 89

IL

FROM THE CHURCH TOP.

First Attempt and Failure. — At it again. — The Southern Outlook. — Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. — Cherubusco. — Chapultepec — Guadalupe. — The patron Saint of the Country. — Round the Circle 98

in.

FROM THE SIDEWALK.

Views from Street Corners. — Chief Street. — Shops, Plaza, Cathedral. — High and Low Religion. — Aztec Calendar Stone. — The Sacrificial Stone. — The President's private House. — Hotel Iturbide. — Private Residences. — Alameda no

IV.

A NEW EVENT IN MEXICO.

Palace of the President. — The President. — How he looks. — What he pledges. — Former Property of the Church. — Its Consequences. — Corruption. — Pospects and Perils 126

V.

OLD AND NEW AMONG THE SILVER MINES.

A Mediaeval Castle. — First Icicle. — Omatuska. — More about Pulqui. — A big Scare. — A Paradise. — Casa Grande. — A Sabbath in Pachuca. — A native Convert.— Mediaeval Cavalcade. — The Visitors. — Mounting Real Del Monte. — The Castle of Real. — Gentlemanly Assassin. — Silver Factories. — Velasco. — A Reduction. — Haciendado Riley. — Mexican Giant's Causeway. — More Silver Reduction. — Horsemanship under Difficulties. — Contraries balancing Contraries.— La Barranca Grande. — A bigger Scare. — A Wedding. — Miner and Mining. — The Gautemozin. — The better Investment 131

CONTENTS. g

VI. Ace Oss Lots

A drowsy Beginning. — Paradise somewhat Lost. — Trees of Paradise. — A lingual Guess at the Aztec Origin. — Tizayuca. — Zumpango. — The Lake System. — Guatitlan. — Hotel San Pedro. — Into Town. — Tree of Noche Triste. — Tacuba. — Aqueduct of San Cosme. — Tivoli Page i66

VIL

THE TOWN OF THE ANGELS.

Warnings unheeded. — Slow Progress. — Christ in the Inn. — Why Angelic. — Bad Faith and worse Works. — First English Service. — Outlook from the Cathedral.— Tlascala. — The Volcano. — Inside View of the Belfry. — Inside the Cathedral.— Triple Gilt. — Cathedral Service. — La Destruccion de los Protestantes 175

VIIL

THE MOST ANCIENT AMERICAN MECCA.

On Horse. — Irrigation. — Entrance to Cholula. — Deserted Churches. — Plaza Grande, and its Cortez Horror. — A wide-awake Priest. — A wide View from the'Summit.— A costly Trifle.— The Ride back 191

IX.

A DAY AND NIGHT AT EL DESIERTO.

A Point of View. — The Woods : their Peril and Preservation.— How vpe got here.— Chapultepec^Tacubaya.— Santa Fe'.—Contadera.—Guajimalpa.— The Forest.— The Shot.— Solitude.— The Ruin. — Its Inquisition.— A Bowl of Song.— Moonlight Pleasure and all-night Horror.— Morning Glories.— Its History. — A more excellent Way.— Home again 204

X.

A RIDE ABOUT TOWN.

The Horse and its Rider.— Paseos.— Empress's Drive.— A Relic of Waterloo. —The Tree of Montezuma.— The Woods.— View of Chapultepec— Baths of Montezuma.— Tacubaya Gardens.— The Penyan.— Canal.— Floating Gardens. — Gautemozin.— The Cafe 219

XI.

A GARDEN IN EDEN.

A Temptation.— Up the Mountains.— The Cross of Cortez.— Sight of the Town and Valley.— The downward Plunge.— A Lounge.— Church of Cortez.— The Enchanted Garden.— Idolatry.— The Market-place.— The Almanac against Protestantism.— Palace of Cortez.— The Indian Garden of Maximilian.— A Sugar Hacienda.— The latter End.— All Zones 231 lo CONTENTS.

XII.

A WALK IN MEXICO.

The Market-place. — The Murder-place. — Mexic Art and Music. — Aquarius. — Ruins, and how they were made. — A Funeral. — San Fernando Cemetery. — The English and American also. — Vaminos Page 248

Book Iii.— From Mexico To Matamoras. To Queretaro

The Start. — First and last Church in the City. — The Game-cocks. — First Scare. — Guatitlan again. — Barrenness. — Gambling and Tortiila-making. — Descent to Tula. — A Bit of English Landscape. — Tula. — Hunt for a Statue. — A silver Heavens and Earth. — ^Juelites. — Mountains and a mounting Sun. — Vista Hermosa. — Napola. — A stone Town. — An Interior. — The Stables. — Sombrero Walls. — Eagle Tavern. — Playing with the Children. — Gamboling verms Gambling. — Cazadero, the Bull Praiiie. — Hacienda of Palmillas. — Blacksmith Idolatry. — Misterio de la Santissima Trinidad. — 'Tother Side up. — Descent into the Valley of San Juan. — Lonp yellow Cone. — Longfellow and Homer. — Elysium after much Turmoil. — A Dissertation on Beggars. — A Market Umbrella.— In Perils among Robbers. — The beautiful Valley of San Juan. — Colorado. — A Turner Sunset. — Sight of Queretaro. — The Aqueduct. — The Bed 267

IL

QUERETARO.

Into the Town. — Maximilian's Retreat. — Capture and Execution. — Hill of Bells. — Factories and Gardens. — Hot-weather Bath. — A Home. — Alameda. — Sunday, sacred and secular. — A very Christian Name. — Crowded Market, and empty Churches. — Chatting in Church. — Priestly Procession. — Among the Churches. — Hideous Images. — Handsome Gardens 285

III.

TO GUANAJUATO.

A bad Beginning. — A level Sea. — Celaya. — A Cactus Tent. — Salamanca. — Irapuato. — Entrance to Guanajuato. — Gleaning Silver. — The Hide-and-goseek City. — A Revelation 300

IV.

A SILVER, AND A SACRED TOWN.

Native Costume. — Reboza and Zarepe. — The Sombrero. — A Reduction Hacienda.— The Church in Guanajuato. — Its Antipodes. — A clerical Acquaint-

CONTENTS. 1 1

ance.— A mulish Mule.— "No quiere."— The Laudscape— Lettuce.— Calzada.— The Town and Country.— Fish of the Fence.— The Cactus and the Ass. — Compensation.— One-story City. — High Mass and higher Idolatry.— The God Mary p^g^ 307

V.

A HORSEBACK RIDE OVER THE SILVER MOUNTAINS.

Indian Dancing and Gambling.— A sleeping City.— Wood and Coal Carriers. —Mineral de la Luz.— A Mountain Nest.— Sometimes up, sometimes down. —Berrying and Burying.- The Apple-tree among the Trees of the Wood.— Off the Track.— A funereal Tread.— Lunch in the Air.— The Plunge.— A Napola Orchard.— Out on the Plains.— Valley of the Sancho 321

VL

TO AND IN SAN LUIS POTOSl.

Aztec Music. — Low-hung but high-hung Clouds. — Troops and Travelers. A

big, small Wagon.— Zeal of San Fehpe. — Lutero below Voltaire. — Rough Places not smooth. — Mesquite Woods. — Silver Hills.— Two Haciendas.— How they Irrigate.— Lassoing. — The Frescoes of Frisco.— Cleft Cliffs.- The Valley of San Luis Potosi.— Greetings and Letters.— The Church of Mary.— The coming Faith. — A costly and Christly Flag. — Joseph and Mary worshiped in vain for Rain g,.

VIL

OUT AT SEA.

Leaving Shore. — A hot Companion. — Parallel Mountains. — Parks and Divides. — Hacienda of Bocas. — Gingerbread Pigs. — A ragged Boy Apollo. — Marriageless Motherhood. — The Widow's Reply. — Sierra Prieto. — Mortevillos. — Reveling in the Halls of Montezuma. — Strife of Beggars. — Dusty Reflections. — Venada. — Chalcos. — The Worship of the dying Wafer 351

VIII. Mid-ocean

The "Rolling Forties." — Ceral Hard-tack. — Not so Hard. — Mexican Birds. — Smoking-girls. — Laguna Seca. — La Punta. — First Breakfast in an Adobe. — Hacienda of Precita. — The Spanish Bayonet. — Mattejuala. — Birnam Wood marching on Dunsinane. — The first and last Mosquito of Mexico. — Yankee Singing. — Worse threatened 359

IX. Nearing Shore

Preparations against a Rancho. — A golden Set. — Bonaventura. — A Rancho : what is it ? — Companions. — Aztec or Chinese 'i — Desolation. — Tropic Thorns and Flowers. — An Oasis. — Hacienda of Solado, and its unexpected Hospital-

12 CONTENTS.

ities. — Freaks of the Spanish Bayonet. — Green velvet Mountains. — The true Protector Page 366

X. Into Port

Sunrise. — Villa de Gomez Firias. — A lost American found. — Flowering Palms. — An unpleasant Reminder. — A charming Park. — Agua Nueva. — La Encantada. — La Angostura. — Battlemented Mountains. — Buena Vista. — The Battle-field—The Result.— Why.— Saltillo.— Alameda.— Friends 375

XL

MONTEREY.

Songs in the Night. — Open Fields near Saltillo. — Effect of Irrigation. — "The Rosy-fingered Dawn." — Gathering together of the Mountains. — San Gregario. — A Thousand-feet Fall. — Rinconada. — Wonders of Flowers. — A Hole through a Mountain. — The Saddle Mountain. — The Mitre. — Santa Caterina. — A Tin God. — A familiar Color. — St. Peter. — No Bathing after Midday. — The Smallness of Mexican Heads. — Miss Rankin's Work. — Strife between Brethren. — Its Benefits. — The two Dogs. — The Eye of the Town. — Revolutions 287

XIL

THE BEGINNING OF THE END.

Rancho de Villa de General Trevina. — A Sign of Home. — A misty Escort. — Blistering Morin. — Chaparral.^The changed Face of Nature. — The Yankee Hat and Hut. — Mesas, or Table-lands. — The bottom Rancho : Garcia. — Mier. — Comargo. — The Grand River unseen, yet ever near. — Last Night in a Rancho. — La Antigua Renosa -. 398

XIIL

JOLTINGS AND JOTTINGS.

A Creator and an Imitator. — Church-making and Carriage-writing. — The oldest Church and the youngest. — Compagnons du Voyage. — A Brandy-sucker. — Prohibition for Mexico. — Talks with the Coachman and Mozo. — Hides and Shoes. — San Antonio. — Its Casa and Inmates, — Rancho Beauties. — Women's Rights in Mexico. — Sermonizing in the Wilderness. — A Night on Stage-top. — Fantastic Forms. — Spiritual Phantasms. — Light in a dark Place. — Matamoras and Brownsville 403

XIV.

THE FINISH.

Coach, not Couch. — A new Tread-mill. — Rascality of a Sub-treasurer. — The same Country, but another Driver. — Live-oak versus Mesquite. — A sandy Desert as large as Massachusetts. — Not a complete Desert. — A dirty, but hos-

CONTENTS. 13

pitable Rancho. — Thousands of Cattle on no Hill. — A forty-mile Fence. — A Patch of four hundred square Miles. — Mr. King's Rancho and Pluck. — Perils. — Mr. Murdock's Murder. — Corpus Christi. — Indianola. — Good-bye Page 418

XV.

CHRISTIAN WORK IN MEXICO.

Not yet. — The First Last. — A Telegram and its Meaning. — Perils and Perplexities of Church purchasing. — Temptation resisted. — Success and Dedicatiou. — Cure Hidalgo and his Revolution. — Iturbide and Intolerance. — Beginning of the End. — The Mexican War, and its Religious Effects. — The Bible and the Preacher. — The first Revolt from Romanism. — Abolition of Property and of Institutions. — Invasion of the Papacy through France and Maximilian. — Expulsion thereof through America and Juarez. — The Constitutionalists the first Preachers. — The first Martyr : " Viva Jesus ! Viva Mexico !" — Francisco Aguilar and the first Church. — The Bible and his Death. — First Appeal abroad. — Response. — Rev. Dr. Riley and his Work. — Excitement, Peril, Progress.— President Juarez, the first Protestant President. — The chief native Apostle, Manual Aguas. — His Excommunication by and of the Archbishop. — A powerful Attack on the Church. — His Death. — The Entrance of the American Churches in their own Form. — Their present Status. — The first American Martyr, Stephens ; and how he was butchered. — San Andres. — Governmental Progress. — The Outlook. — Postfatory 424

Appendix A 455

Appendix D 466

ILLUSTRATIONS,

Page

Cathedral and Plaza by Moonlight Frontispiece

The Bay of Havana 23

Governor's Palace at Vera Cruz 37

Vera Cruz 4c

Fountain at Vera Cruz 50

Old Bridge of Atoyac eg

Orange Grove, Cordova 61

A Peon's House 66

Great Bridge of Mathata 67

View of Orizaba 69

River at Orizaba 71

The Organ Cactus 77

Maguey Plant 82

The Valley of Mexico, from the American official Map faces 89

Mexican Flower-girl 91

First Protestant Church 94

Chapultepec loi

Church of Guadalupe faces 102

The Lottery-ticket 104

Iztaccihuatl 106

The Dome io8

The Market-place, City of Mexico 112

San Cosme Aqueduct, City of Mexico 117

The Palace of Mexico 1 19

The Aztec Calendar Stone 122

The Sacrificial Stone faces 123

Interior of a modern Mexican House 124

The Palisades of Regla 153

A Mexican General 158

Tree of Triste Noche 171

Garden of the Tivolis, San Cosme 1 73

Street View in Puebla 177 l6 ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

Ruins of the covered Way to the Inquisition 1 79

The Cathedral of Puebla 182

Convent of San Domingo, City of Mexico i85

Prisoners of the Inquisition 188

Church built by Cortez 195

Pyramid of Cholula 198

View from the Pyramid of Cholula 200

The Tree of Montezuma 222

The Baths of Montezuma 225

The Canal 227

Floating Gardens 229

Saw-mill 245

Planting Corn 247

Scene in Market 249

A Water-carrier 255

Soldiers' Monument in the American Cemetery 261

Cactus, and Woman kneading Tortillas 270

Mexican Beggar 280

Aqueduct of Queretaro 284

Queretaro 288

A Cotton Factory, Queretaro 291

Church of San Diego, Guanajuato 305

Mexican Wash-house faces 317

Funeral of Governor Manuel Doblado 317

Mexican Muleteer 336

The Virgin 348

Joseph 349

Buena Vista 381

Saddle Mountain 391

Bishop's Residence, Monterey 393

Alameda, Monterey 397

The Itinerary — from Vera Cruz to Matamoras 41^

Church of San Francisco, City of Mexico 425

First Methodist Episcopal Church, City of Mexico 430

A distant View of the Church of the Ex-convent of San Francisco, City of

Mexico 437

Church of San Jose de Gracia 442

Manuel Aguas 444

John L. Stephens 448

Tower and Castle of Acapulco, Mexico — Scene of the recent Massacre. . . . 451