Our candy recipes

Front matter

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Preface

This book has grown in answer to the constant requests of housewives and students for good recipes for homemade candies.

There is hardly a home in which candy is not made, at least occasionally, and there are few cookery courses which do not include one or two candy lessons. But the kinds of candy commonly made are few in number. There is little realization of the possibilities of homemade candy, of the wide range of varieties, delicious and attractive enough to compete with those purchased in the Fifth Avenue shops. Yet such candies can be made in the home or in the classroom without special training or skill and with the simple equipment ordinarily found there.

We are therefore presenting our recipes in the hope that they will enlarge the scope of home candy making. All the recipes have been tested in the classroom many times, and much effort has been spent in making them simple and accurate, yet sufficiently detailed to prevent failures. We trust that they will be found so and that the results from their use will be all that can be desired.

We have omitted the more elaborate types of commercial candies because we realize that they cannot be vi PREFACE

successfully duplicated without special training and

equipment.

We wish to acknowledge the services rendered by

assisted the authors in the standardization of the candy

recipes.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I. The Magic of the Candy Pan .... 1

II. Utensils for Candy Making .... 6

CHAPTER I The Magic of the Candy Pan

What child would believe that the little sugar house at which he has gazed, with his nose glued to the window of the confectionery store, was once plain sugar such as he used on his morning cereal? This would seem to him no less a miracle than the changing of the pumpkin into Cinderella's coach. And he would be right ! Even the scientist who is familiar with the many wonderful changes that take place when sugar is cooked, still marvels at the ever increasing varieties of candies resulting from the magic of the candy pan.

It seems a long way from the nut brittle made by the simple caramelization of sugar to the sugar chateau with its many turrets, its semitransparent window panes, and its brown roof, all made from sugar cooked to different temperatures.

But the difference between these, as between many candies, depends upon just this — the cooking of sugar and water to different temperatures and the handling of it in different ways. By changing the temperature and the methods of manipulation we get varieties of fondant, taflBes, brittles, sticks, and clear hard candies.

Let's put some sugar and water in the saucepan over the flame and see what magic we can work. First, the sugar dissolves. When it begins to boil our thermometer registers about the temperature of boiling water (212° ¥.).

As the boiling continues, the temperature keeps going up and the syrup gets noticeably thicker. Although analysis would show that with each degree of the thermometer a change has taken place, the first important stage in the making of candy is the so-called "soft ball stage," about 236° F.-240° F. If we take some of the syrup from our pan at this stage we can make from it soft, creamy fondant for bonbon centers, mints, or creams. The candy continues to cook and the mercury goes up. The syrup passes through the "firm ball stage" (246° F.-250° F.) to the "hard ball stage" (265° F.), and from syrup taken out now we make taffy. At the "crack stage," still higher (290° F.), we make a butterscotch, and then higher yet (300° F.-310° F.), brittles and hard candies.

From the sugar with which we started we have made from our one saucepan, cream peppermints, centers for chocolate creams, white taffy, brittles, sticks, and lollypops.

By adding other ingredients to our sugar and cooking to different temperatures, we can make a great variety of candies with no more effort and skill than we needed for our fondant.

The important points in candy making are the temperature to which the candy is cooked and the manipu-

THE MAGIC OF THE CANDY PAN 3

lation of the cooked candy. Sometimes the whole fate of the candy — whether it is grainy or smooth — hes in the temperature at which it is beaten — whether hot or cold.

Creamy Candies. — In certain types of candy, such as fudge, penuchi, or fondant, we want the sugar crystals to be as tiny as possible, so minute that they can scarcely be felt in the mouth. This makes the candy smooth and "creamy." Such texture is achieved by observing two rules:

I. Cook the candy to a very definite temperature.

The only way to measure temperature accurately is by using the thermometer. An approximate temperature can be secured by the cold water test, but this may not be right within three or four degrees. A small variation in temperature will not make so much difference in a taffy or a brittle as in a fondant or a fudge, where every degree counts. This is why we have so much poor fondant and fudge while taffy is usually good.

II. Cool the candy before beginning to beat it.

When the candy is beaten while hot, large sugar crystals are formed and the candy is "grainy." A great deal of fudge is of this kind.

An added safeguard against grainy candy is the use of a small proportion of corn syrup. This helps to prevent the formation of large crystals of sugar. The same effect can be obtained by cream of tartar, lemon juice, vinegar, or acetic acid. Any one of these ingredients will produce a candy of smooth texture, but for general use the corn syrup is more dependable. Since all of these give the same result they can be used interchangeably; the amount required varies in each case and must be definitely worked out.

Taffies and Hard Candies. — In taffies, brittles, and clear candies we do not want any crystallization of the sugar, because this would make the clear candies cloudy and the brittles sugary. To avoid this crystallization we put in a larger proportion of com syrup, we stir the candies only enough to keep them from burning during the cooking, we turn them out quickly when they are done, and we do not scrape the saucepan too closely. When sugar crystals are formed on the sides of the saucepan we wash them off with cheesecloth dipped in cold water, because if one sugar crystal is poured out with the candy it may cause crystallization of the whole batch.

The Cold Water Test. — For many years the cold water test has been used to determine when a candy is done. This test should be made with water that is really cold. Take out about a teaspoonful of the cooking candy and drop into the cold water. When the hot syrup is cooled by the water it thickens and can be formed into balls of varying degrees of hardness expressed in terms used in the table below.

Of course this test is not so accurate as the thermometer, but it is a gauge which can be used by the experienced with more or less success.

THE MAGIC OF THE CANDY PAN 5

The table below shows the temperatures to which different types of candies should be cooked and the cold water test for each.

TYPE OF CANDY

TEMPEBATXJBE

COLD WATER TEST

Fudge, penuchi, operas.

maple creams, etc.

soft ball soft ball firm ball hard ball

Butterscotch, toffee, etc.

crack

Brittles hard crack

Clear hard candies hard crack

CHAPTER II Utensils for Candy Making

The Thermometer. — A thermometer is essential in order to obtain uniformly good results in candy making. Experience can teach you to know when candy is done, either by its appearance, or by the "feel" of the "cold water test." But in gaining this experience, you may waste much material and time. Even when you have once gained the experience, unless you make candy frequently you lose your skill. The thermometer obviates the waste of time and material in learning to know when candy is done, and gives a reliable test for the temperature to which the candy should be cooked.

Either of two types of thermometer may be purchased — the chemical thermometer or the thermometer specially designed for candy making, with a metal back and an adjustable hook which fits over the side of the candy pan. The advantages of this latter type are that it need not be held in place while the candy is cooking, and it is not likely to break because of the protection of the metal back. Its disadvantages are that it is difficult to clean, and it cannot be used with small quantities of candy in the saucepan because the bulb will not be covered. This type of thermometer should be moved from time to time along the side of the

UTENSILS FOR CANDY MAKING 7

pan when the candy is being stirred, so that the candy will not scorch where the thermometer hangs.

The chemical thermometer has the advantage of being easily cleaned and being practical for use with small amounts of candy. It can also be used for determining oven temperatures. Its only disadvantages are that it is more easily broken and it must be held in the candy, as it cannot be hung on the side of the kettle.

The cheinical thermometer should be laid on a damp cloth when taken from the hot candy syrup. If laid on a cold slab or table it may break. It should be cleaned and put into a case when not in use.

The Fahrenheit thermometer has been used in our candy making. The centigrade thermometer can be used, if desired, but all of the temperatures given must be changed to the centigrade scale.

Saucepans. — Choose a saucepan of the proper size for the kind of candy to be made. Remember that all candy "boils up" and space must be allowed for this.

The saucepan should have a smooth surface, because any rough spot may cause the candy to stick and burn. Copper, aluminum, agate, or tin may be used.

Spoons and Spatulas. — Wooden spoons are desirable for candy making, because they do not become too hot to handle when left in the cooking candy. It is also easier to beat with a wooden spoon, because the handle does not cut into the hand.

For measuring, use standard tablespoons and teaspoons. All measurements are level.

A medium sized spatula is very desirable for candy making. The flexible blade is an aid in scraping the candy from pans and platters, in raising brittle from the slab, and in taking such candy as caramels and fudge from the pans.

Fondant Paddles. — A clean putty knife, with a blade of medium width, can be used as a fondant paddle. Special fondant paddles of wood, or of metal with wooden handles, can be purchased. A pancake turner can be used if fondant paddles cannot be procured.

Measuring Cups. — It is better to use a standard measuring cup than a tea cup. Many tea cups contain less than a half pint, and, if used, will throw other measurements out of proportion.

Slabs, Baking Sheets, Platters, or Pans. — A marble slab is desirable for candy making, but not essential. It furnishes a smooth, level surface, and is apt to be larger than the ordinary household platter or baking sheet. It is especially desirable when dropping fondant patties, making lollypops, or pouring brittles. You may have an old-fashioned, marble-topped table or bureau, from which the slab can be removed for use in candy making.

Tin baking sheets, such as are used for cookies, are desirable when slabs are not available, because they have a larger surface than the ordinary cake pan. They should be inverted for brittles and similar candies when the edge of the pan would be in the way.

A platter is smooth and therefore useful when a slab or large baking sheet is not available for the types of

UTENSILS FOR CANDY MAKING 9

candies mentioned above. When a flat surface is necessary, the platter should be inverted. A platter, uninverted, can be used for taffy which is to be taken out and pulled, or for fondant which is to be beaten, but should not be used for such things as fudge or caramels. The latter types of candy take the shape of the utensil into which they are poured, and therefore should be poured into a pan with square corners. When a platter is used, several pieces from the batch will be unattractive in shape.

Professional Equipment. — Even for home use, a slab with metal candy bars is useful. By means of the bars you can regulate the size of your block of candy, and hence its thickness. When the candy is firm the bars can be removed, and the candy is ready for cutting without the struggle of getting it out of the pan. If you decide to go into candy making on a commercial scale you will need additional equipment. The best thing to do is to visit a wholesale confectioners' supply house and select what will meet your individual needs.

CHAPTER III What We Put into Candy

Sugar. — Granulated sugar is to be used in all recipes unless otherwise specified.

When brown sugar is employed, try to obtain the light brown, which is neither strong in flavor nor sticky. Brown sugar contains some acid which may cause milk to curdle, and therefore, when they are used together, the mixture must be stirred constantly during cooking.

If confectioners' sugar is used, be sure it is free from lumps.

Molasses. — Do not use the dark, strong molasses, unless you are partial to its peculiar flavor. The majority of persons prefer the more delicate flavor of medium or light molasses.

Corn Syrup. — There are two kinds of com syrup in general use — the light and the dark. Do not use the dark when the light is called for, because its stronger flavor and dark color may not be desirable.

Corn syrup is used in many recipes to prevent the forming of large sugar crystals instead of the cream of tartar or lemon juice commonly called for.

Butter. — If butter is not too expensive, it is desirable in candy because of its flavor. The pans should

WHAT WE PUT INTO CANDY always be greased with butter, because some of the grease from the pan will stick to the candy and this will be tasted first when the candy is eaten. When butter costs too much, butterine is the best substitute. Use equal measures in substituting.

Approximate Weights and Measures To Be Used as a Guide in Purchasing Materials material

WEIGHT or

ONE CUPFUL number of

CUPS TO A

Almonds

Butter

4 ounces 8 ounces 8 ounces 8 ounces 43^ ounces 33^ ounces 12 ounces 5% ounces 3% ounces 6j^ ounces 3% ounces

6 ounces 53^ ounces 8 ounces

Butterine

Cherries, candied

Cocoa

3^ 5

1%

Cocoanut, desiccated

Corn syrup

Dates

English walnuts, shelled

Peanuts, shelled

Pecans, shelled

Pistachio nuts

Raisins

2% 3

Sugar, brown

Sugar, confectioners'

Milk. — Unless otherwise stated, fresh milk is meant when "milk" is called for in a recipe. If fresh milk cannot be secured, use unsweetened canned milk, diluted according to directions given on the can, or powdered milk, mixed with water.

The sweetened, canned milk will add sugar to the recipe and throw out the proportions of ingredients.

When cream is called for we mean a moderately heavy cream. When this is not available, use a thinner cream, or top milk, and add two tablespoons of butter to each cup. When a recipe calls for cream, the substitution of milk will not give the same results.

Cocoa and Chocolate. — In recipes where chocolate is called for, cocoa may be substituted, in the proportions of three tablespoons of cocoa and three-quarters of a tablespoon of butter, for each square (ounce) of chocolate. The extra butter is added because the chocolate contains more fat than the cocoa.

Chapter IV

General Directions. — The primary object in fondant making is to produce a creamy mass in which the crystals are of the smallest possible size.

Fondant of a fine, smooth texture can be made from sugar and water, but success is more certain if corn syrup is added, or if some acid is added to change some of the sugar into a form which retards crystallization.

The acids in most common use in fondant making are:

cream of tartar acetic acid

lemon juice vinegar

Their effect upon the texture of fondant is practically the same. Cream of tartar is the acid in most general use because of its lack of distinctive flavor and the fact that it is easy to handle and is usually on hand in the kitchen. The taste of vinegar may be detected and lemon juice or acetic acid usually have to be specially purchased.

For a fondant recipe containing 2 cups of sugar use:

corn syrup 2 tablespoons

or cream of tartar j/g teaspoon

or vinegar Y2 teaspoon

or lemon juice 3^ teaspoon

or acetic acid (36%) 3 drops 13

Corn syrup is more likely to give consistently good results than the acids. With the acids there is the danger that a prolonged time of cooking will produce a fondant which is very soft and sticky.

Care must be taken to cook the fondant to the right temperature and to cool it to the right temperature before beginning beating.

Detailed directions for the cooking of fondant are given under the recipe for vanilla fondant.

Suggestions for the use of fondant will be found in Chapter V, What Can be Done With Fondant.

Vanilla Fondant

Water, 134 cups Water, % cup

Light corn syrup, 2 table- Light corn syrup, 1 tablespoons spoon

Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup into a saucepan and cook, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the spoon and do not stir the candy again during the cooking.

When the candy begins to boil, cover the saucepan and cook for three minutes. The steam formed washes down any sugar crystals which may be thrown on the sides of the saucepan. Remove the cover and continue cooking.

From time to time wasli away any sugar crystals which appear on the sides of the saucepan. For this purpose a fork, covered with cheesecloth and dipped into cold water, may be used.

Cook until the temperature 238° F. is reached. ^

Remove from fire and pour at once on a cold wet platter. Cool to 110° F. (lukewarm). Beat with a fondant paddle or a spatula until the fondant becomes white and creamy. Add vanilla and knead until the mass is smooth and no lumps remain.

Put away in a crock or glass jar and allow to ripen for two or three days before using. The fondant can be kept for three or four weeks if waxed paper is laid over it and it is kept tightly covered. If it begins to become dry, it should be covered with a damp cloth.

Cold water test when fondant is cooked to 238° F.: soft ball.

Yield (large recipe) : weight — one pound.

Chocolate Fondant

Vanilla fondant, 1 cup Chocolate, 2 squares (2 ounces) Vanilla, Yl teaspoon

Melt the chocolate over hot water. Add to the fondant, and knead until well-blended. Although the fondant itself has been flavored, add vanilla, because, after the addition of chocolate, the flavoring in the fondant is less pronounced.

1 If a firmer fondant is desired for molding, cook to 240° F. The fondant cooked to 238° P. is suitable for cake frosting, mints, cocoanut drops, fudge de luxe, etc.

Cocoa Fondant

Vanilla fondant, 1 cup Cocoa, 3 tablespoons Vanilla, 1 teaspoon

Add the cocoa gradually to the fondant, kneading it through the mass. If the fondant is quite stiff it may be necessary to add a few drops of warm water while kneading in the cocoa. Add the flavoring, as the cocoa disguises the vanilla in the fondant.

Coffee Fondant large recipe small recipe

Strong coffee, strained. Strong coffee, strained,

IM cups % cup

Light corn syrup, 2 table- Light corn syrup, 1 tablespoons spoon

Vanilla, 1 teaspoon Vanilla, Yl teaspoon

Make strong coffee and strain it through cheesecloth so that it will be absolutely free from grounds.

Put the sugar, coffee, and corn syrup into a saucepan and cook, following general directions for fondant making under vanilla fondant.

Maple Fondant

Maple syrup, ^ cup Maple syrup, J^ cup

Water, 3^ cup Water, J^ cup

Put the sugar, syrup, and water into a saucepan and cook, following the directions for making given under vanilla fondant. This fondant is softer than vanilla fondant, hence it should be cooked to 240° F.

Caramel Fondant

Caramel syrup, % cup Caramel syrup, J^ cup

Water, ^ cup Water, Yi cup

If you do not have caramel syrup on hand it can be made by following the directions given below.

Put the sugar, caramel syrup, and water into a saucepan and cook, following the directions for making given under vanilla fondant. Cook until the temperature 240° F. is reached because the caramel tends to make the fondant softer and more sticky.

Caramel Syrup

Sugar, 1 cup Boiling water, 1 cup

Heat the sugar in a frying pan, stirring constantly until it is melted to a syrup of light brown color. Do not try to heat the sugar too rapidly or it will scorch.

Add the boiling water and stir until a smooth syrup is formed. Allow to simmer for about ten minutes. Remove from fire and keep in a covered jar until needed.

Brown Sugar Fondant

Granulated sugar, 1 cup Brown sugar, 1 cup Water, 134 cups Vanilla, 1 teaspoon

Granulated sugar, 3^ cup Brown sugar, Yl cup Water, % cup Vanilla, Y2 teaspoon

Put the white sugar, brown sugar, and water into a saucepan and cook, following the directions for making given under vanilla fondant.

No corn syrup is needed for this fondant, the acid in the brown sugar making the fondant creamy.

Lemon Fondant

Sugar, 2 cups Water, 1 cup

Light corn syrup, 2 tablespoons Grated rind of 3^ lemon Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons

Sugar, 1 cup Water, 54 cup

Light corn syrup, 1 tablespoon Grated rind of 3^ lemon Lemon juice, 13^ tablespoons

Wash the lemon and grate the rind, using only the yellow part, as the white gives the candy a bitter taste.

Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup into a saucepan and cook, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Continue cooking, without stirring, until the temperature 248° F. is reached. If any sugar crystals form on the side of the pan during the cooking, wash them away with a wet cloth.

Remove the syrup from the fire. Mix together the lemon juice and rind, and spread them over a damp platter. Pour the hot syrup at once over the fruit mixture. Do not stir. Cool to 110° F. (lukewarm). Beat until creamy. This is somewhat difficult to beat at first because the fruit juice does not blend easily with the candy. A long beating is required. When the fondant becomes thick and can be handled, knead until smooth.

Put away in a covered jar until wanted.

Cold water test when fondant reaches 248° F. : firm ball.

Yield (large recipe) : weight — one pound.

Orange Fondant large recipe small recipe

Light corn syrup, 2 table- Light corn syrup, 1 tablespoons spoon Orange juice, 3 tablespoons Orange juice, \]/^ table- Grated rind of 1 orange spoons Lemon juice, 1 tablespoon Grated rind of 3^ orange

Lemon juice, 3^ tablespoon

Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup into a saucepan and cook, following general directions for the cooking of vanilla fondant, except for the temperature to which the syrup is cooked.

Cook until the temperature 252° F. is reached.

go OUR CANDY RECIPES

Remove from fire. Mix together the orange juice, rind, and lemon juice. Spread over a cold platter. Pour the hot syrup over the fruit mixture. Do not stir.

Cool to 110° F. (lukewarm) and beat, following general directions for the beating, kneading, and storing of fondant.

It is somewhat difficult to beat this fondant because the thick syrup does not blend easily with the fruit juices.

Cold water test when the fondant reaches 252° F. : very firm ball.

Yield (large recipe) : weight — one pound.

Butter Fondant large recipe small recipe Sugar, 2 cups Sugar, 1 cup Milk, % cup Milk, ]/2 cup Light corn syrup, 1 table- Light corn syrup, J^ tablespoon spoon Butter, 1 tablespoon Butter, }2 tablespoon Vanilla, 1 teaspoon Vanilla, ]/^ teaspoon

Put all of the ingredients except the butter and the vanilla into a saucepan and cook, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.

Continue cooking until the temperature 238° F. is reached. Occasional stirring will be required to prevent butter fondant from scorching.

Remove from fire, add butter, and allow to stand until butter is melted. Stir only enough to mix the butter through the mass and pour on a platter which has been rinsed with cold water.

When cool (110° F.) add vanilla and begin beating with a fondant paddle. Follow general directions for the beating and kneading of fondant.

This is not quite so smooth as the water fondant. It has a slightly caramel flavor and a rich, cream color. It makes delicious centers for pecan rolls or for chocolates.

Cold water test when fondant reaches 238° F.: soft ball.

Yield (large recipe) : weight — one pound.

Oriental Creams large recipe small recipe

Egg white, 1 Egg white, 3^

Glycerine, 34 teaspoon Glycerine, 3^ teaspoon

Light corn syrup, 1 table- Light corn syrup, 3^ tablespoon spoon

Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup into a saucepan and cook, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the spoon and do not stir the candy again during the cooking.

When the candy begins to boil, add glycerine, cover the saucepan, and cook for three minutes. The steam formed washes down any sugar crystals which may be thrown on the sides of the saucepan. Remove the cover and continue cooking.

From time to time wash away any sugar crystals which appear on the sides of the saucepan. For this purpose a fork covered with cheesecloth and dipped into cold water may be used. Cook until the temperature 240° F. is reached.

Remove from fire and pour at once on a cold, wet platter. Cool to 110° F. (lukewarm).

Spread the stiffly beaten egg white over the cooled fondant. Beat with a fondant paddle or spatula until the fondant becomes white and creamy. Add vanilla and work until the mass is smooth and no lumps remain.

The fondant should be shaped at once for centers for chocolates and put in a cold place. Because the fondant softens upon standing it should be dipped as soon as possible after shaping.

This kind of fondant is especially adapted for cream centers for chocolates because it becomes very soft upon ripening. Directions for chocolate dipping are given in Chapter XVI.

Cold water test when syrup reaches 240° F. : soft ball.

Yield (large recipe): one and three-quarters cups fondant; weight — fifteen ounces.

Chapter V

There has been some prejudice against fondant as a homemade candy because too often it has been merely flavored with vanilla, and then made into little balls with nuts on top. This combination is too sweet, is not attractive looking, and dries out quickly.

Such candies are uninteresting, but the makers should be blamed rather than the fondant. Fondant can be used as the foundation for many candies which are interesting and delicious.

Fondant Patties. — The simplest way of giving character to fondant is by adding flavor and color and by making it into patties — the round cream peppermints and wintergreens which are used so often as after-dinner candies. These can be made in two ways, dropped or molded.

For either kind of patties the fondant must be melted over hot water. It is better to melt a small amount of fondant (about one cup) at a time. With large amounts there is danger of nicking the last of the patties sugary because of crystallization. This is caused by the hardening of the fondant on the sides of the pan, or by the stirring necessitated by the dipping out of the patties.

Keep the water under the fondant (in the bottom part of the double boiler if you are using one) just below w wL^ nB

E^j^Hg^^H the boiling point. Stir the melting fondant enough to blend it. If the fondant is very soft it should be dried over the hot water for about ten minutes so that the patties will hold their shape. It can be tested by dropping a small amount on waxed paper to see that it becomes firm.

If the fondant is rather stiff before melting, it should not be allowed to stand over the hot water after it is well softened. It may be necessary to add a teaspoon of hot water so that it can be dropped easily.

When the fondant is melted and ready for use, the coloring and flavoring should be added with as little stirring as possible. Your own judgment will have to be used for the amounts of coloring and flavoring. Flavoring oils are better to use than essences because they are stronger, and a few drops will give the desired flavor. In adding an essence it is sometimes necessary to add so much that the consistency of the fondant is affected.

Peppermints are usually left whi^^e, unless some color is desired for a special color scheme. Pink is the accepted color for wintergreen patties, green for spearmint or lime, bright red for cinnamon or clove, and pale yellow for lemon. For coffee, orange, or maple patties, use fondants made according to directions for these special flavors. It is impossible to add enough coffee or orange juice to flavor a white fondant without making it entirely too moist. The maple flavor should be obtained from maple sugar or syrup, which cannot be added to the cooked fondant.