How to make a vegetable garden; a practical and suggestive manual for the home garden

Front matter

HOW TO MAKE A VEGETABLE i

I

BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE

Prologue

HILE sitting in front of our dear old fireplace at dusk one autumn day, with our two girls at my knee, they begged for a story. I told them how the great apple log glowing and crackling before us had once been a small tree, and hoAV it had grown taller each year until its head was higher than the house and its branches Avere laden with fruit. But it grew too old at last to bear well, so it had to be cut down to make room for younger trees. Its work was not done, however. Just now it is giving us warmth and making the room gloAv Avitli light. Then its Avhite ashes will be spread about the rose bushes — and next year they will have become part of a beautiful blossom. A look of wonder at the revelation of Nature's perpetuation came into the deep-blue eyes.

Longfellow says, "There is no death; what seems so is transition," and to me this giving, taking and returning by Nature is one of the grandest things in the world. He who is near to Nature's heart, is very near his Creator.

It is the love of all that is outdoors, and Dame Experience's sharp but unforgettable lessons, together with the many things we have learned from books and friends, that have made it possible for us to write this volume. May it make warm friends and help others to enjoy their garden more than ever before. It has been our earnest effort to tell the simple, necessary things, leaving the deep and scientific parts to those who make such things their life-study. I trust, however, that we have left out no links in the chain of the plants' life-history.

Edith Loring Fullerton.

Contents

PROLOGUE

The Apple Tree's Story. Nature's Plan of Perpetuation

Chapter I

While Nature sleeps — The beginning of a garden — Preparation of the soil — Fertilisers absolutely necessary — Manure and its protection — Fall digging — Spreading manure — Broadcasting chemical fertilisers — Spring forking ..... 3

CHAPTER n

Sketching plans around the fireside — Selecting a site — Direction of rows — Placing various varieties, selecting positions — Temporary windbreaks — Sketch L, showing angle of sun's rays in regard to planting relation to rows — Drawing power of the sun, warping — Sketch H., showing garden without western sun — Sketch IIL, small suburban home plot — Sketch IV., detail plan of the garden — Deterioration of soil — Sowing to legumes — Innoculating the soil — Compost heaps — Topping trees to secure additional sunlight — Enclosing or isolating gardens — Sketch V., Japanese or radial garden — Vegetable flower beds . -23

CHAPTER ni

The purchase of fertilisers, cost — Heavy and light soils — Tools : wheelhoes, etc. — Breaking up the soil by manual labour — Small tools

X CONTENTS-Conlinued

and their cost — Straight rows and how to make them^How to nse tools, and the reasons why — Coldframes, hotbeds, seedboxes — Hotbed mats, bough ten and home-made . , 31

CHAPTER IV

Good seed a necessity — Where to buy, suggestions for securing them — Saving seed — Classes of seed — Sowing time — Early crops — Method of germination — Transplanting methods — Protection afterward — Depth to sow seed — Making drills — Planting seeds of rapid germination with seeds of slow germination — Reasons for this combination planting . . . . .45

CHAPTER V

Transplanting — Thinning — Use of tin cans, paper pots, berry baskets, eggshells, fioAver pots, roofing felt, plant lifter, sod, partition boxes, charlotte-russe cases . . . . -59

CHAPTER VI The Survival of the Fittest

Classes of enemies — Flea-beetle — Potato-bug — Cutworm — Squash-bug — Striped beetle — Mixing Paris green and London purple — Protection by tent and other means — Cabbage -worms and aphis — Pyrethrum and salt — Tobacco liquid — Kerosene emulsion — Chinch -bug and tassel-worm — Celery caterpillar — Squash vine borer — Carbon bisulphide — May beetles — Moles — Trapping moths at night — Smut — Rust — Bordeaux — Sprayers — Scab — Blight — Treating potato seed for scab . . . . .71

CHAPTER VII

Supports for lima beans, peas and tomatoes — Old-fashioned means — Modern methods — Artistic ways — Kinds of wood — Kinds of wire

CONTENTS-&«/»»/^^ xi

— Height of supports — Trimming vines — Stake training — Brush rows — Slanting screen — Fan supports — Folding lattices — Wire supports. . . . . . . . . 87

CHAPTER VHI

Desire for rest on part of plants- — Vegetables in the garden in August — Cultivation for the various A'arieties at this season — Lettuce screens — Manure -water — Making and keeping — Irrigation by hose, water-can and pipe system — Use of a ram — Chlorophyl eliminators or blanching — Flower-pots — Tying — Sacking — Boarding — Matting — Storing — Banking . . . .97

CHAPTER IX

Pulling up debris — Burning and composting — Asparagus, care at this season — Rhubarb, care at this season — Storing screens, poles and vine supports — Protecting celery — Digging carrots and parsley — Protecting kale, cardoon, dandelions — Cutting cauliflower and broccoli — Protecting corn salad — Taking up endive and chicory — Digging up the garden — Spreading manure — Late potatoes — Storing roots and winter greens in pits and root cellars . . . . . . . . .m

CHAPTER X

Garden ruts — At least one new variety each year — Personal experiences with new friends — New theories in regard to medicinal properties — Odd vegetables and foreigners — Number of varieties in each species — Chemical composition of vegetables and their value to the human system . . . . . . -123

Xll CONTENTS— Conlinued

CHAPTER XI

Methods of planting, raising, cutting, storing ; also suggestions for serving lettuce, chicory, cress, fennel, rampion, roquette, cardoon, dandelion, celery, cabbage, mustard, endive, corn salad, pe-tsai, rhubarb, borage, asparagus, parsley, chervil, garnish kale, kales, beets, coUards, spinach, Brussels sprouts, orach, leeks, kohlrabi, 143 herbs .........

CHAPTER Xn

Methods of planting, cultivating, harvesting, storing and preparing for the table radish, beet, carrot, parsnip, salsify, scorzonera, scolymus, turnip-rooted parsley, turnip-rooted chervil, celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke, onion, potato, turnip and rutabaga, garlic, horseradish . . . . . . .221

CHAPTER Xni

Methods of planting, cultivating, harvesting, storing, canning, preserving and cooking tomatoes, melons, cucumbers, peas, beans, peanuts, squash, pumpkin, eggplant, pepper, martynia, okra, corn, strawberries, currants, gooseberries, blackben-ies, raspberries and blackcaps, wineberries, ground cherries . . .259

CHAPTER XIV

Planting Table For Vegetables

A condensed guide, showing when and how to plant seventy-four kinds of vegetables, how to cultivate them, and when they are ready to eat — adapted to the small home garden . . -327

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The fence bordering this vegetable garden is at once a wind-break and

a thing of beauty in June ..... Frontispiece

PAGE

While nature sleeps ......... 3

Forking in the fall .......... 4

A manure pit, the doors open ........ 5

Manure pit, showing two doors. Through one, the manure is thrown in

through the other it is removed ...... 6

Spreading manure in the fall ........ 7

Requisites of success .......

Where to plan the garden ......

Fig Fig Fig Fig Fig Fig

9- 10.

Plan to show how to run the rows Plan for combination vegetable and flower garden Plan for combination vegetable and flower garden Plan for combination vegetable and flower garden Two crops on the same ground ....

A vegetable garden arranged for beauty "Please may I have some wood-ashes for my violets?" The woodpile by the kitchen door .....

The woodpile's ashes turned themselves to roses Without some fruits, the garden is incomplete .

Plan for small fruits .......

Making the garden plan .......

The faint awakening of the earliest spring ....

A compost heap is better than a gold mine Vegetables screened by flowers — a combination garden You take your seed . . .....

If anyone thinks vegetables are not pretty, he is mistaken . Signs of spring ........

A Planet, Jr., wheel-hoe and attachments ....

Plan showing rows of corn planted with, and without, a garden line

A dibble

Carefully protect transplanted plants ....

A seedbox made from an old gelatine box and two glass plates held in place by tacks .......

Coldframe improvised from materials at hand Hose and watering-can prime requisites in gardening

9 II

13 14

IS 16

17 18

25 26

31 35 36 38 39

39 40 xui xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued

PAGE

The stick-marker, ready for work ....... 42

From a tiny seed grows a stem two-and-a-half inches through and fifteen

feet high, bearing a head that weighs four-and-a-half pounds . 46

Gorgeous blossoms from little hard, round pellets , . .46

A sunflower towering fifteen feet above the earth . . . -47

Good and inferior seed from the same packet: Corn, beans, squash,

sea kale, and martynia ........ 49

Our neighbours were glad to give us pointers . -52

Parsley seed asoak before planting . . . . . . -53

Making a deep furrow with the hoe . . . . . . -54

Your hoe-handle will make a good furrow ... . . 54

Sowing seed in a furrow made with a presser . -55

Types of Stay-at-homes and Peregrinators . . . . .59

Tin can, the bottom and seam of which have been unsoldered, the seedling in it ready to be slipped off into the hole . . . .64

Strawberry runner caught down with hairpin; soil loosened from pot

Seedling in a paper pot . . . . . -65

Seedling about to be transplanted from a paper pot ; no shock to the

root system . . ' . . . .66

A bottle carrier utilised as a compartment seedbox . . . .67

Berry box and charlotte -russe case — each a good nursery for seedlings . 67 Seedling topped before setting in the garden . . . . .68

Corn-smut decoration . . . . . . . . .71

Cabbage-worm embroidery . . . . . . . .71

Tobacco for certain sucking insects is powdered and blown on stems or

steeped and sprayed . . . . . . . .72

Bordeaux mixture, the standard fungicide. Invaluable for the home garden 7 2 Kerosene emulsion, effective with plant lice and other sucking insects . 73 Luring night-flying moths to destruction. One such is mother to the

Vile smelling whale-oil soap, bad for scale insects and good for currants

and gooseberries . . . . . . . . -74

Paris green for insects that chew, used as a powder or a spray . .75

Crawlers will seek the shade of an inviting shingle. " Reconcentrado "

Cut-worms will hide under chips and stones near the plants and can be

killed in the early morning . . . . . . .76

The knapsack sprayer in action ... ... 70

Various types of spraying apparatus . . . . . . .78

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— c««/;««fi

Fresh hellebore

Vine uplifters

Fig. I. A "wigwam"

Fig. 2. An American pergola

Raffia . . . "!

It is handy and persuasive

Planting peas along a hedge

Fig. 5. A support for tomatoes

Fig. 6. A support for tomatoes

A svipport for tomatoes

Fig.

Scissors support or slab trellis

A lean-to rest for tomatoes

Midsummer .....

A spray of late green stringless beans

Garden in midsummer

Two methods of preparing manure water

A cheese-cloth screen for lettuce

Bringing in the \'egetable marrow^ squashes

Pinching back lima-bean vines to throw the strength into the bean

Potatoes miast be dug and dried in the shade

The barrel in which manure water is made

A swift-running, merrily ringing brook

Our irrigation scheme ....

At the falls a hydraulic ram will be placed

Autumn chores .....

Hay-lined earth-pit almost finished

Celery-pit opened to take out a fresh supply

In the garden, there is still much that is green

The garden and its vegetable pits lie deep under the snow

A peep into the root cellar

The Sakurajima radish ....

The Pe-tsai, a newcomer from Mikadoland

Borage, one of our flower vegetables

Tall white Cimitar corn ....

Golden Bantam corn ....

Trianon lettuce .....

Black-seeded Simpson lettuce

The exquisite leaves of the striped and variegated kale

Chervil, a dainty new^ garnish

The fine foliage of the fennel

The American flag leek

New Zealand spinach

XV

PAGE 81

88 89 89 90

91 92

93 94

97 98 lOI

102 102

117 119

131 132

133 134 135 136

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— c.«//««.</ s be broken from the lettuce

Old friends one cannot lose

The heart of a big carcloon

Swiss chard .....

As varied in form as in flavour

Leaves of the cabbage lettuce

Trianon lettuce in blossom

Express Cos lettuce at the eating stage

Seedling of Express Cos lettuce

Giant Iceberg lettuce

The large end of the midrib should alway,

before serving Water cress

Seedlings of the water cress Extra curled cress American cress ready to cut Blossom of the extra cut (white) cress Seedling of the green curled endive French moss curled endive blanched Broad-leaf Batavia endive The seed bed along the arbour .

Taking up endive ....

Lettuce-leaf corn-salad seedling Witloof chicory ....

Blossom of the Witloof chicory Celery seedling ....

The heart of the stalk A celery trench lined with salt hay When earth gets into the crown in banking Opening a trench of earthed-up celery Putting celery in boxes for storage in the root cellar Cooper cutting for soup, celeriac and table celery (Winter Queen) Spanish cardoon ....

The cardoon in its Japanese kimono What not to let the rhubarb do Bunching Connover's Colossal asparagus Asparagus leaves, partly cut off and burned to destroy the little gray

bug that feeds on them ....

A cabbage making believe it is a Brussels sprout Seedling of the Georgia collard Brussels sprouts The Staghorn fern kale Sea kale in the fall of its first year Snow covered kales

137 139 140

143 144 146 147

147 148

165 166 167 169

173 174

175 179

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS-Co«//««<',/

White orach seeching ....

The dandehon's gorgeous blossoms .

Arhngton danclehon ....

French danclehon seedling

The dracena-leaved beet

Like a mangelwurzel ....

Prickly spinach .....

A spike of prickly spinach

Ordinary winter spinach ....

Borage ready for cutting Against chervil and ornamental kale, ordinary parsley nius laurels ......

Carentan leek .....

Chives ......

Our sage bush after yielding three families a year's supply

A spray of sage hung up to dry

Spearmint cut for sauce

Roadside clog fennel ....

Yellow fennel blossom ....

The banned roquette ....

Cauliflower cut through centre

Cauliflower tied up to protect the head from sunburn

Broccoli, a handsome hardy cauliflower

The globe artichoke ....

The thistle-like blossom of the globe artichoke Roots we eat ......

Radishes ......

Blossom of the Sakurajima Mammoth radish Rampion ......

Sixteen inches of parsnip

The same parsnip after five days of air

The parsnip's blossom ....

Early round parsnips ....

The true Danvers long carrot

Early carrots .....

Young carrots .....

Salsify or oyster plant ....

Scorzonera seedling ....

Artistic arrangement of the scorzonera blossom Scorzonera root and leaf ....

Scolymus leaves and root

Scolymus blossom .....

White turnip .....

t look to its xvii

P.\GE

195 198 199

202 203

204 206 206 208 208

210 210 212 213 214

^34

235 236

LIST OF ILLVSTRATIONS-Continued

:1 ready for

Swedish turnip ....

Two roots of the turnip-rooted parsley

Seedling of turnip-rooted parsley

Erfurt Giant celeriac seedling .

The potato is a tuljer — quite distinct from roots

The beautiful blossom of the much-maligned potato

Jerusalem artichoke

Red onions ....

A daint}' long-rooted onion seedling

A shallot ....

Shallot ready to eat

American garlic

A quaint putting up of garlic

Horseradish roots

Who first dared to taste them ?

Seed pods we eat

The red tomato

The yellow egg-shaped tomato

A green tomato stuffed with cabbage and tie

Sugar peas

Seedling of the sugar pea

Lentils

Stringless green beans

Lima beans

A good stand of Egyptian corn

Egyptian corn seedling

Shoe-peg corn

Evergreen corn

Popcorn, white and yellow

Smut on corn

Cool and refreshing cucumber

The branching habit of the martynia and

Martynia proboscidea

Nature's arrangement of seed

Martynia craniolaria

The okra seed

A poor okra seedling

The okra flower

Vegetable marroAV squash

A group of squashes and pumpkins

A A'egetable marrow seedling

Pumpkia, sometimes called cow-pumpkin

Patty pan sc[uash ....

the pi the orchid-like blossoms cklear

238 240 240 241 242

243 250 250

251 252

253 254

255 256

274 274 276

279 280

293 294 294

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— c««^/«»<'./

The Netted Gem melon

The citron melon

Fun in the melon barrel

Chinese eggplant

AVhite eggplant

Fruit of Chinese eggplant

Peppers, green and red

A puffball mushroom

An edible fungus

Strawberries as they should be served coming from your own garden

Mosquito netting protects strawberries from birds

Blackcaps or black raspberries ....

A neat way of training climbing berries

The top of a blackberry vine shorn of its beauty by blight

Currant blossoms .......

My improvised jelly-strainer .....

By shifting the weight the juice is made to run through a different part of the bag ..........

XIX

PAGE

■ 297

• 297

■ 299

■ 302

■ 302

While Nature sleeps

CHAPTER I

;N my estimation there is an endless variety of places for the beginning of a garden. Primarily, of course, the start is in the brain, and from that wellspring of schemes come forth the theoretical lay-out and specifications. These may be on severely practical lines, upon curves of beauty, or on a combination of the two ; but they certainly depend upon individual taste, and very largely also upon that warper of ideas and inflexible ruler of all mankind called Circumstances.

Most emphatically, the purel}^ prosaic and eminently practical part of the garden should be started in the fall, with a simple, preliminary preparation of the soil. There are sundry good and sufficient reasons for this, perhaps the most important being the fact that autumn is not nearly so strenuous as spring work, and one who is a healthily vigorous dweller in the country is not forced at the former season to do a myriad things within an extremely hmited period, with the usual result of failing to do anything thoroughly Avell. The garden may begin in the spring with the earliest vegetables, or it may begin in the mind with the vegetables for which there is the greatest affection.

Forking in the fall average amateur desires to garden

There are some people whose ideal vegetable garden is based upon and bounded by corn, peas and beans; others would substitute beets for one of the above ; while a number would enlarge the boundaries to embrace lettuce, tomatoes and radishes.

Beyond these, few amateurs dare to venture, perhaps because the stock of the family grocer is thus limited.

Preparing the soil sounds like a dull, uninteresting subject, and some of the technical details are undoubtedly more awe-inspiring than interesting. Personally, I don't care to know, for instance, just how much phosphoric acid, potash, nitrogen, lime, humus, and moisture the soil should possess ; and I doubt if the on strictly theoretical lines or to lay foundations of mathematical exactness. Of one thing I am positive :

these high-sounding, scientific names and formulas are enough to scare a number of people so badly that they will never muster sufficient courage to start a garden. At least, they will not venture to prepare the soil projjerly ; and dismal failure ensues Avithout a doubt.

Everyone who cares for outdoor life in general, plant life in particular, knows that each variety of plants, in order to thrive, takes certain substances from the soil, and that to produce the same variety year after year on the same land avc must give back to the soil everything that has been taken from it Vjy the growing plant. This subject is exhaustless in detail, but these may be left to the experts and experimentalists who love to theorise. A few growth promoters arc knr)wn to be good, and to contain a great proportion of the foods required by all species of plants. First and foremost among them is the barn-yard manure. In spite of possible adverse criticism I reiterate : barn-yard manure ; but it must have been well cared for and protected, under coA^er, if possible. Stuff that is full of shavings or sawdust is much worse than nothing as plant food, and a great worm-producer. Material from a stable where the animals have been fed weedy hay is a great promoter of weeds in the garden. If the manm-e has been exposed to heavy rains, all the ammonia and other readily soluble substances that are specially valuable, because quickly available, have leached away, and the ground under the pile has become so rich that it can be utilised only for the raising of a Cinderella-coach-sized pumpkin.

If you have a stable of your own, and have not a manure pit, you are deliberately wasting money, besides spoiling valuable material. Make a pit ; be sure to have it deep and broad, with cemented sides and bottom, and, above all things, covered. The easiest and least expensive way, unless one has a simple roofed-over pile, is to dig a pit the desired dimensions, put cement on the earth sides and on the bottom, and allow it to harden thoroughly before anything is put into it. A little salt in the cement at the time it is mixed will accelerate the hardening process. Next place over the pit a roof that Avill shed water, with a simple lid, or hinged cover, which can be partly

A manure pit, the doors open

Manure pit, showing two doors. Through one, the manure is thrown in ; through the other it is removed

Opened, so that the manure can be quickly and easily taken out as desired.

This is really an Americanised English pit. They use stone for the sides in England which makes it more expensive but also more durable. There are various other ways of storing and protecting manure, such as an earth pit under the barn, and plans suggest themselves to an individual that are exactly suited to his particular place and needs. Upon one point all agriculturists agree : protected manure is worth very much more than that which has been exposed to the weather. Just what happens to the nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and alkalies under various conditions is not particularly interesting, and experimental or scientific books give full details of the entire matter from both the phj^sical and the chemical standpoints. These lessons are learned not through reading alone but by the exercise of common sense, and by practical experience, backed up by a goodly amount of painstaking patience and a never-failing love of plant life.

As a fertiliser, use ground bone or bone-meal, the latter being the finer and more quickly available, and if wood-ashes are combined with the manure, the garden will thrive and fully repay for all time and labour expended.

We put the manure on our garden late in the fall, after the ground has been thoroughly dug, and allow it to stay on all winter. This should be done before the ground is frozen, in order that the fertile attributes may be retained on your own premises rather than dissipated upon the highway or carried to the neighbours. Some people protest against fall fertilisation, saying that all the plant nutriment is absorbed so deeply into the earth that the roots are unable to find it in the spring. They probably think it has gone clear through to China, where it is making the rice grow. I can affirm that it has gone into the soil just as far as the fall rains can carry it, and no farther. It does not escape after Jack Frost has been at work for a short time.

The spring rains dissolve and carry in more valuable material, storing food in the earth as well as moisture. As soon as the ground can be worked, that is, as soon as the frost is out and it is dried a little, the fall dressing is turned under by the plow, if the garden is large enough, or forked in in a small one like ours, so full of berry vines and young fruit trees that it would not be wise to put a horse into it. The straw in the manure, and there should be a quantity of it, makes fine humus, or vegetable matter that will loosen the soil and hold moisture. If all the leaves that were raked up in the fall are put into the manure, they will serve the same purpose as straw. If they have been burned and the ashes saved, or if there is a compost heap, these go well with sod and waste vegetati

In the spring, before the manure has been turned under, spread on bone-meal and wood-ashes, and, once in three or four years, a little air slacked lime if the soil is sour ]\Iake a mixture composed of two shovels of bone-meal to one of wood-ashes, and cover the ground until it is ^^'hite. When this is turned in with the manure the plants have food in the place where they need it, namely, so deep that it draws the roots down below the drought line.

Many people prefer not to broadcast the fertiliser, but to place it in the rows, hills, or drills and after throwing some earth upon it to sow the seeds directly over the plant food — and this plan has its advantages.

Spreading manure in the fall

How TO Plan the Vegetable Garden

The way to have more and better vegetables for less work is to plan the garden in February, instead of waiting until May. Every one who fails to draw a diagram of his garden is likely to be swamped by the spring rush; AVithout a plan you are sure to plant too much of one thing and not enough

Requisites of success of another. The only possible objection to planning the garden in winter is that it may "seem hke work." The obvious reply is "Don't make work of it. Enjoy it." If you haA-e never tasted the joys of planning, begin now.

How TO Rx'x the Rows

Let us consider first a medium-sized garden with a southern exposure and protection from the north Avinds. This, of course, Avill be the earliest garden, for it gets all the sunlight there is. (See Fig. 8.) If the rows run east and west, the rays of the sun strike only the southern side of the row. If, however, they run north and south, the sun's rays strike the eastern side of the row in the morning and the western side in the afternoon. The latter method seems to me to produce a more even and vigorous growth. Again, suppose the rows are planted east and west, the southern sun of summer will continuously draw the rows one AvaA^ southward only, thus pulling them out of plumb. This is another point in faA'or of north and south planting, for rows thus planted are drawn eastward by the morning sun, and this lean is corrected by the afternoon sun.

If the garden faces north, and by this I mean is unprotected from the north winds, would it not be possible to protect it on the northern and western

1 1

Fig. 8 sides by a hedge of privet, a vine-covered trellis or a grape arbour? The latter in this case would give the greatest amount of protection if made in the old-fashioned lattice style. Even a high board fence can be made a thing of beauty by covering it with A'ines, particularly climbing roses.

If your garden faces northeast and is entirely cut off from the western sun (Fig. g), it will be better to run the rows northwest and southeast in order to get the greatest

duration of sunlight, for in this situa- ^:^\'^-J 'M' i ''\ .--'''i''--. /i''-- / '■ '■;■■..■.'■/. ^-^ tion CA'ery available ray is most '^

valuable.

No matter how your garden may face, no matter what angles, curA-es or dimensions it may possess, you will see at once, and A'ery clearly, the best thing to be done when you have it before you on paper with the area reached by the sun's rays laid out upon it.

A Combination Vegetable and Floaver Garden

Suppose you live in the suburbs upon a lot not more than 50 X 100 feet, or even less. You can surely spare a little ground for a vegetable garden. I know of one such dear little home plot and this is how it was laid out. (Fig. 10.) It is a corner lot. On the Avest and south run the streets of a suburban A'illage with broad curbs and stone sidewalks. It is a fenceless town, hence it Avas easy to coax a lawn right down to the Avalk. A f e av CA^ergreens were dumped in a procession at the southAvest corner, an unhappy dogAvood (naturally a shade-loving tree) was trying to Ha-b on the sunny AA^est side, AA'hile fruit trees were

Fig. 9 jfe7'S^?S&r-Vrgi-?,XjiJy,C?,Aa2iig5T )

located on the almost sunless eastern side of the house. It was undoubtedly a creation of some landscape gardener who had to a certainty missed his calling, but he accidentally did one thing very wisely and we forgave him. As he had exh..usted all available space except the back fence line, and had a number of small arbor-vitte plants, he placed them along the north boundary, and they "did the rest," soon forming a beautiful, close, and therefore effective wind-break, which was of great service to the garden.