Science of successful threshing

Front matter

M^Sm^^^J^^j^JI

Sci ENCE

Threshing

Preface

THE object of this book is to enable the owners and the operators of "Case" Threshing Machinery to become famihar with the construction and operation of their engines and machines. The material has been gathered, not only from the author's personal experience, but also from notes taken during visits to the outfits of a large number of the best and most successful threshermen in various localities. The aim has been to avoid theorizing and only such statements are made as have been demonstrated practical, by actual field experience. The fact is appreciated that it is impossible to lay down specific rules for operating threshing machinery, under the ever varying conditions of grain, straw and weather, but it is hoped that the suggestions herein embodied will enable a man of ordinary intelligence to operate his machine successfully, and even to become an expert himself.

It is the intention to continue revising it from time to time, and with this aim in view, suggestions and criticisms will be welcomed from threshermen, wherever located, to whom this little volume is respectfully dedicated.

Contents

For Index, see paee 249

Chapter I Pitting Up and Starting a. New Engine 9 II The Feed "Water 15

" III Firing with Various Fuels 33

" IV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings 43

" V Handling the BnginB 5 9

" VI The Engine Proper 65

VII The Valve Gear 89

VIII The Boiler 107

IX The Traction Gearing.. 121

X "Water Tanks 129

" XI Horse Powers 131

PAHT II. SEPABATOES

Page.

Chapter I Starting and Setting a. Separator 147

II The Cylinder, Concaves and Beater 15 3

" III The Straw-rack and Conveyor 167

" IV The Cleaning Apparatus 169

V Threshing with a Regularly Equipped Separator .181

VI Threshing with a Specially Equipped Separator. .191

VII The Pulleys and Belting of a Separator 207

'VIII Lubrication and Care of the Separator 219

IX Feeding the Separator 227

" X The Straw Stackers 233

XI The Grain Handlers 241

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page Fig. 1 Left Side Elevation of Case Traction Engine 8

2 Top or Plan View of Case Traction Engine 14

3 Lime in Feed Pipe Nipple 16

4 Sectional View of Injector 22

5 Sectional View of Marsh Pump 25

6 Section of Check- Valve 28

7 Sectional View of Cast Shell Heater 30

8 Sectional View of Steel Shell Heater 31

9 Sectional View of Fire Box for Burning Straw 36

10 Sectional View of Fire Box for Burning Oil 38

11 Sectional View of "Ideal" Cup 46

12 Oil Pump Attached 47

13 "Swift" Lubricator 48

14 The Connecting-Rod 51

15 The Cross-Head 53

16 Board used in Babbitting Cannon Bearing 56

17 Cannon Bearing in Position for Babbitting 57

18 Side Elevation of Engine Proper 65

19 Sectional View of Simple Cylinder 66

20 Governor for Engine 72

21 Section of Governor Valve 74

22 Engine Belted to Prony Brake 79

23 Prony Brake 80

24 Sectional View of Woolf Compounded Cylinder 84

25 Face of Compounded Valve 85

26 Pipe to Steam Plugs, Compounded Valve 85

27 Center-Head Packing 87

28 The "VToolf Reverse Valve Gear 90

20 Tram on Disc 94

30 Tram on Cross Head 95

31 Tram on Valve Stem 97

32 Sectional View of Boiler 106

33 Interior of Steam Gage 108

34 Section of Steam Gage Siphon IDS

35 Sectional View of Pop Valve 109

36 Fusible Plug in Section 110

37 Cut Showing Cannon Bearing and Gearing 122

38 Friction Clutch of Case Engine 123

39 Section of Hub Portion of Clutch 124

40 The Differential Gear, Showing Springs 127

41 Top View of Power with Sweeps Attached 133

42 Sectional View of Iron Frame Horse Power 143

43 Sectional View of Case Separator 146

44 Cut Showing Space Between Teeth 158

45 Right Side of Belt Separator with Feeder and Wind Stacker 164

46 Left Side of Separator with Feeder, Weigher and Wind Stacker 165

47 Right Side of Geared Separator w^ith Common Stacker. .166

48 Shoe, Showing Position of Sieve Rods 172

49 Lip Sieves (reduced) 174

50 Sieves and Screens (full size) 175

51 Spacing of Holes in Leather Belts 214

52 Belt Lacing with Ends Turned Up 214

53 Lacing for Four Inch Leather Belt 215

54 Location of Holes for Lacing Canvas Belt 217

55 Stitched Canvas Belt Lacing 218

56 Sectional View of Case Feeder 229

57 Sectional View of Wind Stacker 235

68 Telescoping Device for Straw-Chute 23">

59 Head of Case Weigher 243

PART I. ENGINES

Page.

Chapter I Fitting Up and Starting a New Bngine 9

II The Feed Water 15

III Firing with Various Fuels 33

rV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings 43

V Handling the Engine 59

VT The Engine Proper 65

VTI The Valve Gear 89

VHX The Boiler 107

EX The Traction Gearing '. 121

X Water Tanks 129

XI Horse Powers 131

CHAPTER I

PITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE

IN packing an engine for shipment it is usual to remove the brass fitting^ to prevent their being stolen. These,

together with the hose, governor belt and wrenches are packed in a box. The rod for the flue scraper (and the straw fork, for straw burning boiler), are placed in the boiler tubes and the hose and funnel for filling the boiler are placed in the smoke-box. The fire-box, ash-pan, tubes and smoke-box should be examined to insure the removal of all loose parts before the fire is started.

Attaching Brass Fittings. In attaching the fittings to the boiler, care should be taken to screw them in tightly enough to prevent leaking. Brass expands more with heat than iron, therefore where a brass fitting screws into iron, the joint will be tighter when hot than when cold : consequently should there be a leakage it should be stopped by screwing the fitting in a little further when cold. In screwing a pipe into a valve or other fitting, the wrench should be used on the end of the valve into which the pipe is being screwed. When the wrench is put on the opposite end, the valve body is subjected to a twisting strain that is very liable to distort and ruin the seat. The blow-off valve and other valves about the engine should be so attached that the pressure will be on the under side of the valve seat. Then the packing around the valve stem can leak only when the valve is open, and may be renewed under pressure at any time the valve is shut. A valve when cold should not be too tightly closed, as expansion due to heating will force the valve so hard against its seat as to injure it.

Starting the Fire. When the fittings are all in place, fill the boiler with water, by means of the funnel, until the glass gage shows about an inch and one-half of water. This is on the assumption that the boiler is level, and if not, allowance should be made accordingly. The water will run in faster if one of the gage-cocks, the blower or the whistle be opened to allow the air to escape. When coal is to be used as fuel, wood (if available) should be used to start the fire, the grates being kept well covered until steam begins to show on the gage. If wood cannot be obtained for starting the fire, straw may be substituted. Then, if it be desired to hasten the rise of steam, the blower may be started and coal thrown onto the fire.

Oiling the Engine. While waiting for steam, the grease may be removed from the bright work with rags or cotton waste, saturated with benzine or kerosene. The oil holes and cups are usually filled with grease at the factory to keep out cinders and dirt during shipment of the engine. This grease should be removed and the oil holes care-

FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE II

fully cleaned so that the oil may reach the place it is intended to lubricate. All the bearings should be oiled, the oil cups being filled with good machine oil or cylinder oil. Where the oil box is large enough, it should be filled with a little wool or cotton waste in order to keep out the dirt, and to retain the oil. Good cylinder oil must be used in the lubricator or oil pump. It is a good plan in starting a new engine, or one that has been idle for some time, to lubricate all bearings at first with a mixture of equal parts of kerosene and machine oil. The engine may be then run a few minutes and afterwards lubricated with uhthinned oil, but it should not be put to work until this has been done.

Starting the Engine Proper. When the gage shows about forty pounds of steam, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the engine started, the throttle being opened gradually so that the water which has condensed and collected in the cylinder may have a chance to escape. The reverse lever should be handled as explained elsewhere in this book. If the engine does not start when the throttle is opened, possibly the governor stem has been screwed down sufiiciently to shut off the steam. This sometimes occurs in transportation. As soon as the engine is running, care should be taken to see that the oil-pump or lubricator is started properly. The bearings should be felt of to determine any tendency to heat.

In starting the engine, it must be borne in mind that the water in the boiler is sufficient for only a few minutes and the pump or injector must be started before the water gets low in the boiler.

The steam pressure should now be raised to the blowing-off point (say 130, 140, or 160 pounds), to try the pop or safety valve. If it does not open at this pressure, pulling the lever will probably start it. If not, it is out of adjustment and should be re-set, as explained elsewhere in this book.

Starting the Traction Parts. When the engine has been run a sufficient time to insure everything being in good running order (if it be a traction engine), preparations may be made for a trip on the road. To do this, the trunnion-ring of the friction-clutch should be oiled and the shoes adjusted to properly engage the rim of the fly-wheel. Any paint that may be on the long hub of the arm should be scraped off to allow the free movement of the ring, which slides thereon, as the clutch is thrown in or out of engagement. All the traction gearing should now be lubricated, and a quantity of oil poured into the cannon-bearings. Next the stud of the intermediate gear, the bevel pinions of the differential gear, and the bearings of the steeringroller and hand-wheel shaft should be oiled. The steering-chains should be properly adjusted as elsewhere explained.

Caution. A new engine should have close attention for the first few days until the bearings become smooth. The

FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE 1 3

engine has been run in the testing-room at the factory, and it is probable that the bearings are properly adjusted. However, they should be felt of at short intervals, and should one of them heat to any extent, it will be best to loosen it a little. The heating may be caused by grit. A fast speed should not be attempted the first two or three trips on the road, but the engine should be allowed to run below its normal speed until bearings are smooth and the operator becomes accustomed to handling the engine. In order to keep the valve and cylinder well lubricated, during the first few days it is necessary to use three or four pints of cylinder oil in ten hours, the quantity depending on the size of engine. Afterwards the amount may be lessened, but it is essential that cylinder oil be fed continually.

Tl o , o oa o t¥ o

E o sJ o

Chapter II

THE feed water demands the constant watchfulness of the engineer. It is his first and most important duty to know that there is sufficient water in the boiler at all times. If he relaxes his attention to it for even a short interval, disastrous results are likely to follow. A modern traction engine is usually fitted with two separate and independent means of feeding water to the boiler. By this arrangement, if the boiler feeder in use be disabled at any time, the other may be put to work without delay. These feeders should receive close attention and each be in condition to work at a moment's notice. If either fails to work properly at any time, it should be repaired immediately. It is essential to use the cleanest water obtainable, as dirty water always causes trouble. It is a good plan to strain the water as it passes into the mounted tank, by placing a cotton grain sack in the hole so that it extends to the bottom of the tank. Eor this purpose a cheap sack of coarse open texture is the best. The mouth of the bag can be' turned over the rim around the hole and tied with a string or strap, but a better way is to have a hoop that just fits over the bag. It is important to see

IS l6 SCIENCE OE SUCCESSFUL THRESHING

that the suction hose and connections are free from leaks. The pipe nipples, which screw into the boiler at the point at which the feed water enters, should be examined occasionally, for with some waters they "lime-up" in a remarkably short time. This accumulation of lime is

shown in the accompanying cut, which is reproduced from a pipe nipple .taken from a FIG. 3. LIME IN FEED tractiou engine. When

PIPE NIPPLE. necessary to shut down

from lack of water, it should be done while the glass shows at least half an inch, as the water-level will fall that much when the engine is stopped, thereby allowing the water in the boiler to settle.

What to do when mater does not show in glass. If you find that the water has been allowed to get below the glass gage and lower gage cock, leaving the crown-sheet bare, when the engine has been standing still for a time, bank the fire and leave the engine alone until it cools. If it be working when you discover the water is out of the glass, the thing to do is, get the front end of the engine up at once. Back the traction wheels into ditch or furrow, run the front wheels up hill or onto a wood or coal pile, or use any means to get the front of the boiler high. If in soft gi'ound there may be time to dig holes for the traction wheels, but be quick about it. In the meantime keep the engine moving in order to slosh the water over the crown-sheet. When you have the front end of the engine up, if water shows in the glass, start the injector and let it run until the boiler is filled to its normal level. If you are unable to get the engine in such a position that the water shows in the glass, cover the fire with a layer of ashes or earth three or four inches thick. Do not attempt to pull it out, as stirring it up creates intense heat. Having banked the fire, leave the engine alone until the steam goes down. By doing this, you have probably prevented the fusible plug from melting, or, what is vastly more serious, burning the crown-sheet. A crown-sheet that has been burnt is greatly weakened, probably "bagged" or warped, and the staybolts so strained at their threads that it is impossible to keep them from leaking. The majority of explosions of boilers of the locomotive type are caused by low water and the consequent burning of the crown-sheet. One experience with low water should be a sufficient lesSon for all time.

Since so much depends upon having sufficient water in the boiler, the gage-cocks and water-glass, which indicate the amount of water, should be kept in first-class order.

The Gage-Cocks. These cocks are a more reliable means of indicating the amount of water in the boiler than the water-glass, although not so convenient. The gage-cocks, or "try-cocks," as they are sometimes called, should be used often enough to prevent them from becoming filled l8 SCIENCE OE SUCCESSFUL THRESHING

with lime and should always be in working order. Whenever opened, the steam should be allowed to blow through a sufficient time to clean them. They should then be closed moderately tight, and then, if they leak, they should be opened again to allow any dirt or scale that may have lodged on the seat to blow out. It is not well to force a gage-cock or other valve shut to stop it from leaking, for probably it is leaking because a bit of scale is preventing the valve from "seating." The forcing simply presses this bit of scale or other foreign matter into the seat and spoils the contact surfaces so the valve will continue to leak until reground. Gage-cocks and other valves on the engine should not be closed very tightly when cold, for when heated, the expansion of the metal will press the valve so tightly against its seat as to injure it.

The Water-Gage. The water-gage should be blown out once each day, to clean the glass and prevent the upper and lower connections from getting filled with lime or sediment. To blow out the lower connection, which is the more liable to become clogged, open pet cock and close upper valve. Then close lower valve and open upper one, which will blow steam through the upper connection and also the glass, thereby cleaning it. On returning to the engine in the morning, or after dinner, be sure that no one has closed the valves of the water-gage during your absence. If this has been done, the glass might show plenty of water, while in reality, the water in the boiler has been

THE FEED WATER Ip

reduced to a low level by blowing off or by some other cause. A stoppage in the valves, or connections of the water gage, when the engine is running, can be detected by the water, which will appear quite still instead of moving a little, because of the motion of the engine. The water glass should be kept clean, even if the other parts of the engine be neglected in this respect. A dirty glass indicates that the engineer is careless about one of his most important duties. The glass can be cleaned at any time by wiping the outside and blowing steam through the inside. It is only necessary, in wiping, to see that it is not scratched by sand, metal or the like, for scratches are likely to cause it to break. An old glass with a coating on the inside that steam will not blow out, may be cleaned by removing it from the connections and running a piece of waste or cloth through it with a stick. Touching a glass on the inside with a piece of metal of any kind is almost sure to scratch it so that it will crack when the steam is turned on.

Packing the Water-Glass . The best method of packing the water glass is by means of the rubber gaskets made for the purpose. These may be purchased for a few cents. Candle wicking, hemp or asbestos is sometimes used, but any one of these packings is liable to become displaced and cause trouble. The author has in mind a case in which a crown sheet was badly burnt because of the glass not showing the true level of the water in the boiler. The candle wicking-, with which it was packed, was forced, by the tightening of the packing-nut, over the lower end of the glass, practically shutting off the water.

Broken Whter-Glass. In case the water glass breaks when the boiler is under pressure, shut both valves to stop the escape of steam and water. The engine can be run by gage-cocks until a new glass may be obtained. If a new glass be at hand, it may be put in at once, but care should be taken to heat it gradually, for if the steam be turned on suddenly, it will break.

Injectors. The injector has, of late years, reached such a state of perfection as to make it the most convenient of all the types of boiler feeders. Although economical in itself, it does not equal, in ultimate economy, a pump used in connection with a heater. The question naturally arises : if it be economy to use a heater in connection with the pump, why not with the injector as well? Were the feed water from the injector piped through the heater, but little would be gained thereby, because the injector delivers /Water so hot, that it would absorb but little additional heat during its passage through the heater. Consequently, the pump, with heater, is the more economical because it utilizes heat from the engine exhaust (which would otherwise be wasted), to heat the water, while the injector heats it by means of live steam taken from the boiler. It is not usual, therefore, to pipe the feed water from an injector through a heater.

THE i^EED WATER 21

To Start the "Penherthy" Injector. With pressure under sixty-five pounds, the valve in the suction pipe should be opened one turn, the steam valve may then be opened wide. The injector will probably start off at once, but should water run from the overflow, the suction valve should be slowly throttled until it "picks up." If hot steam and water issue from the overflow, the suction should be opened wider. A little practice will enable one to set the valve at any pressure, so that it is simply necessary to turn on the steam to start the injector. At a pressure of sixty-five pounds or over, the water supply valve may be opened wide, but it is better partly to close it, as the injector will deliver hotter water when the supply is throttled. The injector must be regulated by the suction valve, and not by attempting to regulate it by the steam valve. The "Penberthy" admits of considerable steam variation. At thirty-five pounds steam pressure, the valve in suction may be opened as wide as it will stand and steam can rise to over one hundred pounds without further adjusting.

What to do when the Injector Fails to Work. See that the suction hose and connections are tight. The delivery ■ pipe may be "limed up" where it enters the boiler. A leaky check valve will keep the injector so hot as to prevent it from "picking up" water. Dirt may be lodged in the chamber where jets "R" and "S" meet, or in the jet "Y," the drill holes or the main passage way. The jets may be coated with lime, and if so, they should be

STEAH soaked in a solution composed of one part of muriatic acid and ten parts of water. Occasionally soak the whole injector. Do not expect an injector to work well, especially at high pressure, if the tank be full of dirt and rubbish. Sometimes an injector will work well for a

long time, and then begin to drizzle at the overflow under the same pressure at which it once worked well.

This indicates that the passage-ways in jets are either worn or are contracted with lime. If removing the lime does not remedy the trouble, the overflow valve may leak.

To regrind it, remove cap "Z" and spread a little flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, between the valve "P" and its seat.

Then with a screw driver, turn valve "P" back and forth, which will grind it to a seat. If the injector be not improved, it is safe to conclude that some of the jets are worn and must be renewed. These are sold separately, and are listed in the thresherman's Supply Catalogs. If in doubt as to which jet is at fault,

FIG. 4. SECTIONAL VIEW OF INJECTOR.

procure all of them and try one after another until the injector works properly. Any unused jets that have not been inserted may be returned.

Independent Pumps. This is the name given to pumps for feeding a boiler, which are operated independently of the engine. They are, in fact, small engines in themselves, connected directly to double-acting pump plungers. An independent pump can be run whether the engine is running or not, but as the heater is effective only when the engine is running, it is best, on boilers having both pump and injector, to use the injector when the engine is not running. The Marsh pump has an exhaust valve for turning the exhaust of the pump in with the feed water. This, of course, heats the feed water and renders the pump more economical. If, for any reason, it is desired to use the pump when the engine is not running, the exhaust should be turned in, in order to heat the water before it enters the boiler. At other times, however, we advise engineers to allow the pump to exhaust into the air. The most of the trouble with these pumps is due to insufficient lubrication, and the successful operators use plenty of cylinder oil. If the exhaust be turned in at all times, this cylinder oil is carried into the boiler where it accumulates, in some cases in sufficient quantities to render it dangerous to the plates of the )3oiler. Consequently, for this reason and also because the pump is more easily "kept up" when exhausting in the air, we do not advise turning the exhaust into the feed water.

Starting the "Marsh" Pump. Before attaching the lubricator, it is a good plan to pour some cylinder oil into the pipe. To start the pump, first see that the valve in the feed pipe, between the check valve and the boiler, is open, and that the exhaust lever is thrown towards the steam end of the pump. The steam may now be turned on, and if the piston rod does not move back and forth, tap the starter-pins very lightly. It is well to run the pump without water until thoroughly oiled, but as soon as it is running smoothly, the suction-hose end may be submerged. Opening the cock with the thread for attaching the sprinkling hose or the small air-cock in the water chamber will aid the pump in "picking up" water.

When the Pump Will Not Start, i. If the pump does not start when steam is turned on, push the starter-pins alternately, to see if the valve moves easily back and forth. If the valve sticks, do not hammer the starter-pins or force them too hard, but remove the valve in order to locate the trouble. This is done by removing the steam chest heads through which the starter-pins pass, and unscrewing the valve, which is done by holding one end while unscrewing the other, by means of the two special socket wrenches furnished for the purpose. If the pump has been idle for a time, the valve may be rusty or gummy, in which case it should be cleaned with kerosene oil. Before replacing the caps, push the valve back and forth as far as it will go and see that it is perfectly free. Also see that the starter-pins are free and have not become loosened or stuck by tight packing. Pull them out as far as they will go. 2. The steam pipe may be obstructed so that the pump does not receive a sufficient supply of steam. 3. Remove the cylinder heads and see that the piston moves freely, and that the nut on the water end of the piston rod is properly tightened. This nut may have worked partly

FIG. 5. SECTIONAL VIEW OF MARSH PUMP.

or entirely ofif, thus preventing a complete stroke. 4. Remove the steam chest and see that the small "trip" holes near the steam chest and the corresponding holes in the steam cylinder are open. If the pump has been idle for a time, these holes are Hable to have become stopped with rust. Before replacing the steam chest, see that the packing is in good order. 5. If the pump has been in use some time, or has not been sufficiently oiled, the valve mayhave become worn and leaky. This is not so likely to occur on the "C" size, as on the smaller pumps. When it does happen, the remedy is a new valve and steam chest.

When the Pump will not Lift Water. If the pump runs all right when steam is turned on, but will not "pick up" wkter, opening the drain cock in the boiler feed pipe will relieve the pressure on the discharge valves, i. See that the suction hose and its connections are free from leaks and that the screen is not covered with rags, waste, leaves or the like. If this hose has been in use for some time, see that it is sufficiently firm not to collapse or flatten, and that its rubber lining has not become loosened so as to choke or stop the water supply. 2. Remove the air chamber and look for dirt under the water valves. 3. If the pump has been in use for a time the water-piston packing may leak. Where dirty water is used, this packing must be frequently renewed. Directions for re-packing are given below.

When the Pump almost stops after lifting water, the trouble is in the delivery or feed pipe. This may be proved by opening the cock in this pipe which will relieve the pressure and allow the pump to run faster. Possibly the angle valve near the boiler has been left closed. The check valve in the feed pipe should be examined, for which purpose the valve, between it and the boiler, can be closed. If nothing be found, the stem should be removed from the valve or the plug removed from the tee so as to expose the opening through the pipe nipple which enters the boiler ; probably this pipe will be found nearly filled with lime at the point at which it enters the boiler as shown in Fig. 3, on page 16. This may be cleaned by driving a bolt into it. Of course, the angle valve stem or plug can only be removed when the boiler is cold.