The cruise of Her Majesty's ship "Challenger" : voyages over many seas, scenes in many lands

Front matter

wm m

Hi will

THE CRUISE

Chapter I. England To Lisbon And Gibraltar

H.M.S. Challenger commissioned at Sheerness — Objects of the voyage— Equipment and fittings — Leave Sheerness — The stormy passage — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of the voyage — Leaving England — Weather in the Channel — Across the Bay of Biscay — First sounding and dredging — The results— Land in sight— Enter the Tagus — Anchor off the city of Lisbon — Visit the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at Belem — Churches, gardens, and palaces — Early history of Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the Challenger — Leave Lisbon — Dredging off Cape St. Vincent — First trial with the trawl — Venus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawling near Gibraltar — Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia— Their description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Bock of Gibraltar in sight — Arrive, and secure alongside the mole — Sights in Gibraltar — Galleries through the rocks — Stalactite caves — Gibraltar as a military fortress — Ceremony of opening and closing the gates — The naval establishment — The town — Its churches— Garrison library — The Alameda— Neutral Ground — Campa and San Roque

CHAPTER H.

GIBRALTAR TO MADEIRA AND TENERIFFE (CANARY ISLANDS).

Leave Gibraltar — Daily sounding and trawling— Sight Porto Santo — Its discovery and early history — Arrive and anchor in Funchal Bay, Madeira— Its early history — First impresviii CONTENTS.

PAOK

sions — The gardens, buildings, conveyances, dress — Leave Madeira — Pass the Desertas — Cape Anaga, Teneriffe, sighted — The Peak — Anchor off Santa Cruz — The buildings and streets — Scenery in the country — Ascent of the Peak — Cruising amongst the group — Sounding and dredging— Ball at the English Consulate — Naval incidents connected with Teneriffe 25

Chapter III

TENERIFFE (CANARY ISLANDS) TO ST. THOMAS (WEST INDIES).

Leaving Teneriffe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across the Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results — Configuration of the bottom — In the Tropics — The officers of the ship — Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of the mode of sounding — The apparatus and appliances used — Taking serial temperatures — Dredging and trawling— Island of Sombrero in sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas . . 36

Chapter IV

ST. THOMAS (WEST INDIES) TO BERMUDA AND HALIFAX (NOVA SCOTIA), AND BACK TO BERMUDA.

At St, Thomas — The town of Charlotte Amalia — Importance of the island— English vessel in distress — Tow her into port — Leave St. Thomas — The first death on board — Soundings — Burial at sea, — Bermuda in sight — Sounding round the reefs — St. George's — The Narrows — Pretty scenery — Reach the anchorage in Grassy Bay — The naval yard — Historical sketch of the Bermudas — Geological and botanical researches — Leave Bermuda — Soundings — The Gulf Stream — Long Island to Nova Scotia — In Halifax Harbour — The city and its suburbs — Gold and coal mines — Halifax to Bermuda— In the Camber — The sand glacier — The caves . 59

Chapter V

BERMUDA TO THE AZORES, CAPE DE VERDE, ST. PAUL'S ROCKS, FERNANDO NOItONHA, BAHIA, TRISTAN D'ACUNHA, AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Leave Bermuda — Sounding round the reefs — Commence another section across the Atlantic to the Azores — Anchor off Horta,

CONTENTS.

IX

Fayal — Fayal to St. Michael's — The gardens Foliage- Scenery — Lake of the Seven Cities — Public buildings and streets — Leave the Azores — Arrive at Madeira — Short stay there in consequence of epidemic — Section commenced across the Atlantic to the Coast of Africa — Palma, one of the Canary Islands, in sight — Sounding and dredging — Cape de Verde Islands in sight— Anchor off Porto Grande — Survey the anchorage — The town and adjacent scenery — Leave for Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — The town — Its natives — Dredging for pink coral — Proceed towards the African coast — Course altered for St. Paul's Eocks — The rocks in sight — Made fast by a hawser — Crossing the Line — The old customs — The southern constellations — Arrive at Fernando Noronha — Disappointment at not being able to land for collectingspecimens — Sounding and dredging — Cape Antonio in sight — Anchor off Bahia — The city — Excursions in the country — Brazilian scenery — Foliage and vegetable products — Case of yellow fever — Leave Bahia — Section commenced to Cape of Good Hope — Island of Trinidad — Passage across the South Atlantic — The drift nets — Incidents of the voyage — Sea-birds — The soundings — Pick up the westerlies — Tristan d'Acunha in sight — The settlement of Edinburgh — Squally weather — Visit the Inaccessible Island — The Brothers Stoltenhoff: their story — Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope, in sight — Anchor in Simon's Bay — Placed in quarantine .... 78

Chapter VI

simon's bay (cape of good hope) to marion and crozet islands, TO KERGUELEN land and the heard islands, the antarctic

REGIONS, AND TO MELBOURNE (AUSTRALIA).

Simon's Town — Visit to Cape Town — Discovery of diamonds — From Simon's Bay to Table Bay, round the Cape of Storms — Anchor in Table Bay — The Challenger's ball — Return ball by the residents — Return to Simon's Bay — Leave the Cape — The Agulhas current — The " roaring forties " — Christmas Day 1873— Sight and land on Marion Island — Vast numbers of albatross and other sea-birds — Prince Edward's Island— Sight the Crozet Islands — Passage to Kerguelen Land — Arrival at and description of the island — Leave Christmas Harbour — The scenery — Anchor in Betsy Cove — From thence to Royal Sound — Three Island Bay — Greenland Harbour — Cascade

CONTENTS.

Eeach — Hopeful Bay — Ehodes Harbour The seal fisheries — Return to Christmas Harbour — Penguin rookeries — The Arch Rock — Leaving Kerguelen for the south— The Heard Islands — Description of the land — Leave the Heard Islands — The first Antarctic iceberg — In the icy regions — The icebergs and pack-ice— Birds— Cross the Antarctic Circle — Early explorers of these inhospitable regions— Wilkes' Termination Land— The Aurora Australis — An Antarctic gale — Enter the pack — No signs of land — Leave the pack — Dredging — A second gale — Shape our course for Australia — Trawling — The weather — The last iceberg — Passage to Australia — Land in sight — Arrive and anchor in Hobson's Bay, Victoria Ill

Chapter VII

MELBOURNE (VICTORIA) TO SYDNEY (NEW SOUTH WALES) AND WELINGTON (NEW ZEALAND).

Melbourne— The city and suburbs — Visit to Ballarat— The city — Its gold mines — Melbourne to Sydney — First sight of Sydney Heads — Arrive at Sydney, New South Wales — Anchor in Farm Cove — Sydney Harbour — Picnic on Mount Victoria — Zigzag on the Great Western Railway — The Blue Mountains, and Valley of the Nepean — The city — Paramatta River — Rhodes — The dredging picnic — Entertainments during our stay — Early history of the colony — Leave Sydney — The stormy weather — Return and anchor in Watson's Bay — Sydney to New Zealand — Daily soundings — Rough weather — Anchor for shelter in Port Hardy and Queen Charlotte Sound — Man washed overboard and drowned — Sight Palliser Heads — Anchor off Wellington— Port Nicholson. 147

Chapter VIII

WELLINGTON (NEW ZEALAND) TO FRIENDLY AND FIJI ISLANDS, TO THE NEW HEBRIDES GROUP, AND TO SOMERSET, CAPE YORK (QUEENS- LAND, AUSTRALIA).

At Wellington — Results of the soundings — Formation of the bottom — Description of the city— Australia and New Zealand — Leave Wellington — Squally weather— Sight the Kermadec Islands— Sounding and trawling— The Friendly Islands — Eoa — Tongatabu — Anchor off Nukalofa — Tonga — The village: its natives — Tapa : its manufacture— Captain Croker's attack on Bea, and the result— Foliage and scenery— Leave Tonga-

CONTENTS. xi tabu— Passage to Fiji— Off Matuki— Anchor in Ngola Bay, Kandavu — Kandavn to Levuka— Anchor off Levuka— Ecturn to Kandavu — Natives of the New Hebrides on board for passage to Api— Survey Ngola Bay— The scenery— Tattooing — Meke Meke— Leave Fiji for the New Hebrides — Off Api — The natives land — The landing, and what was seen — Sounding and dredging — On our way again— In the Coral Sea— Off the Louisiade Archipelago — Baine Island — The Barrier Beefs — Anchor off Bird Island — Arrive at Somerset, Cape York, Queensland 178

CHAPTEB IX.

CAPE YORK (AUSTRALIA) TO THE ARRU AND KII ISLANDS, TO BANDA, AMBOYNA, AND TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS).

The settlement at Cape York — The aboriginal Australians — Foliage and birds— Leave Somerset— Pass through Endeavour Straits — Off Hammond Island — Ceremonies relating to the dead — Australian graves— Off Booby Island— The post-office — Passage to the Arru Islands — Anchor off Dobbo— Visit of the Dutch officials — The settlement — Its natives— Forest scenery — Birds of paradise — Leave Dobbo— Passage to the Kii Islands — Anchor off Kii Doulan — The forests — Beautiful birds and insects — Boat-building — The village and natives — Leave the Kii Islands — Pretty scenery — The Molucca Islands — Anchor off Banda — Gunong Api — Banda Neira — Nutmeg plantation — Animals and birds found — Banda to Amboyna — At Amboyna — The city — Get a supply of coal — Chinese burial-places — The harbour — Arrival of the mail steamer — Leave Amboyna — Cross the Equator (second time) — Pass the islands of Bachian and Tawali — Tidore and Ternate in sight— The charming scenery — Anchor off Ternate — The village— Club-house—Sultan's palace — Mohammedan mosque — Visit the spice plantations — Trees and fruits— Ball at Government House 202

Chapter X

TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS) TO SAMBOANGA, ILOILO, AND MANILLA (PHILIPPINE ISLANDS), AND TO HONG KONG (CHINA).

Leave Ternate — Mindanao, Philippine Islands, in sight— Anchor off Samboanga — The village — Hospitality of the Spanish officials xii CONTENTS.

PAGK

— Dance of the Malagahi Indians — Leave Mindanao, and anchor off Panay — The town of Iloilo — Leave for Luzon — Anchor in Manilla Harbour — The city — Cigar factories, &c. — Leave Manilla — Passage to Hong Kong, China — Arrive and anchor in Hong Kong Harbour — The city — Its residents, shops, theatres— Their temples and religion— Joss, the mystery — Captain Nares leaves for England to take the Arctic command— Loss to the expedition by his leaving — Arrival of the Englishman 228

CHAPTEE XI.

HONG KONG (CKINA) TO MANILLA, ZEBU, CAMIGUTN, AND SAMBOANGA (PHILIPPINE ISLANDS), AND TO HUMBOLDT BAY (NEW GUINEA).

Leave Hong Kong — Passage to Manilla— Sight a derelict — Tow her into Manilla — Scenery on the road and river — Leave Manilla — Passage through San Bernadino Straits — Numerous islands in sight — Arrive at Zebu— The town — Dredging for Euplectellas off the Island of Mactan — Oar success — Leave Zebu — Passage to Camiguin— The new volcano— Its effect on the surrounding country — Anchor off the village of Abajo — Proceed along the West Coast — Anchor off Samboanga — The scenery — Visit the Island of Basilan — Get a supply of coal — Leave the Philippine Islands— A course shaped for Greenwich Island — New route to and from Australia to China — Unfavourable weather — Sounding and dredging — Cross the Equator (third time)— Course altered for New Guinea — Land in sight — The scenery and prospects of exploration — Anchor in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea 246

CHAPTEE XII.

HUMBOLDT BAY (NEW GUINEA) TO NABES HARBOUR (ADMIRALTY ISLANDS) AND TO YOKOHAMA (JAPAN).

In Humboldt Bay — Natives alongside — Impressive appearance of the savages— Attempted landing frustrated — Hostility of the natives— Their villages, canoes, &c. — Leave the coast of New Guinea — Admiralty Islands in sight — Anchor in Nares Harbour — Natives alongside — Bartering — Landing at Wild Island — The natives at home— Description of the islands — Survey of the group— Leave the Admiralty Islands — Course

CONTENTS.

PAGE

shaped for the Ladrone Islands — Deepest sounding for the cruise— Unsuccessful in reaching either Ladrone or Caroline Islands— The Japan Islands in sight— Enter the Bay of Yedo —Beautiful scenes— Anchor off Yokohama 261

CHAPTEE XIII.

JAPAN.

Yokohama— The cemetery— Walks in the environs— "Visit Tokio (or Yedo), the eastern capital — Kail way from Yokohama to Yedo — Jinirikisha — Sojourn at Shiba — The suburbs of Yedo — The streets and people — "Curio" shops — Lacquer- ware — Street scenes — The great temple of Asakusa — Japanese wrestlers — Leave Yokohama for Yokosuka— The Imperial Arsenal — Challenger in dock — Secluded temple near Yokosuka — Will Adams and wife's tomb — Visit Kamakura — The shrine of Daibutsu, the great god of Japan — The tea-houses— Leave for Yokohama — Yokohama to Kobe — The rough passage — Take shelter in Oosima — Arrive at Kobe — Anchor in Osaka Bay — Hiogo, Kobe, and Osaka — Kailway to Osaka — Its people and streets— The great temple of Tonagee — Cruise in the inland sea — The fine and picturesque scenery — Eeturn to Kobe — Passage to Yokohama— Dredging picnic in Yedo Bay — The results 276

CHAPTEE XIV.

JAPAN TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Leave Yokohama — Soundings of the U.S. ship Tuscarora — Our course — Passing the meridian of 180° — Two Sundays in one week — Sandwich Islands in sight — Anchor in Honolulu Harbour — The city — Its streets — Business habits — American influence — The King — Hawaiian Government — Parliament — Taxation — The Nuanu Valley — Pretty scenes— Villa and other residences — The Pali — Horsemanship — Visit to the fish-market — The natives — Public buildings — Parliament House — Hawaiian Hotel — The churches — Queen's Hospital— Court-house— Iolani Palace — Levee at the Palace — King Kalakua and suite visit the Challenger — Leave the Island of Oahu — Squally passage to Hawaii — Arrive and anchor in Hilo Bay — Volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa — The charming scenery — The Eainbow Falls — Bathing-places — Visit to°

CONTENTS.

the crater of Kilauea — Scenes on the road — The Halfway House — Eeach the crater — The first sight of the great cauldron — The Volcano Hotel — Mauna Loa — Eeturn to Hilo . . . 304

CHAPTER XV.

SANDWICH ISLANDS TO SOCIETY ISLANDS.

Leave Hawaii, Sandwich Islands — Passage to the Society Islands — Sounding and trawling — Cross the Equator (fourth time) — Death of Dr. von Willemoes-Suhm — Biographical sketch — Burial at sea — Tahiti in sight — Sounding and dredging outside the reefs — Anchor in Papeite Harbour— The town and country — Streets and natives — Challenger's band on shore — Queen Pomare and suite's visit to the Challenger — Afternoon dance — Ride to Point Venus — The Broom Road — Charming scenes — Natives met on the road — Tamarind-tree at Point Venus — Waterfall— Hill fort of Fatauna— Fruits and plants— Alongside Fare Ute — Coaling from the French depot — A day outside the reefs— Dredging— The company on board— Swing ship 326

CHAPTER XVI.

SOCIETY ISLANDS TO JUAN FERNANDEZ AND VALPARAISO (CHILl).

Leave Tahiti — Parting scenes — Westerly winds— Sounding and trawling — Juan Fernandez in sight — Picturesque scenery — Robinson Crusoe — Anchor in Cumberland Bay — The tablet at Crusoe's look-out— The settlement, past and present — Leave Juan Fernandez — The run to Valparaiso — Arrival, and anchor off the city — The city and harbour— Swinging ship for magnetic corrections 336

CHAPTER XVII.

VALPARAISO, THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN.

Leave Valparaiso — Sight Juan Fernandez — Sounding and dredging — Strong head-winds — Fall in with the westerlies — Sight Cape Gallagos and Cape Tres Montes — Anchor in Port Otway — The Entrance Islands— Last day of 1875 — Leave Port Otway — Passing through the Messier Channel — Anchor in Hale Cove — The scenery — Foliage — Leave Hale Cove— Con-

CONTENTS.

XV timiance of passage through the Messier Channel — Stop and trawl off Middle Island — The pretty scenery — Anchor in Gray Harbour — The excursions — Grass and trees on fire — The grand effect at night — Leave Gray Harbour — Messier Channel and Indian Keach — The English Narrows — Mid-Channel Island— The fine scenery — Dredging off Saumaurez Island — Anchor in Port Grappler — The derelict Karnack — Weather during our stay — Leave Port Grappler — Pass through Wide Channel — Dredging, &c. — Anchor in Tom Bay— The excursionists— Squally weather — Drag our anchors — Leave Tom Bay — Conception Channel — Proposed survey in the Trinidad Channel frustrated through the weather — Pass through the Conception Channel — Soundings, &c, in the Innocent Channel — The fine scenery — Anchor in Puerto Bueno Bay — Pretty scenes — The weather — Leaving Puerto Bueno Bay — The scenery and weather in passing through Sarmiento Channel— Sounding and dredging — The Zach Peninsula— Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Leave Isthmus Bay— Passing through Mayne Channel and Smyth's Channel — The fine scenery— Enter the Straits of Magellan — Cape Pillar in sight — Enter the picturesque port of Churruca — The Glaciers — Leave Port Churruca — Pass through Crooked and English Beaches — Off Fortescue Bay — The Fuegians — Off Cape Froward — Anchor in Port Famine — The old Spanish settlement in 1581 — The Chilian settlement of 1843— Leave Port Famine and arrive at Sandy Point — The Chilian settlement- Coal mines and gold workings — Leave Sandy Point and reach the anchorage off Elizabeth Island — Exploring parties — Finding fossil bones — Leave Elizabeth Island — Passing through the Second and First Narrows — Off Gregory Bay — Pass the Meridian of Cape Horn — Again in the Atlantic— Pass Cape Virgin— Sounding and trawling 346

CHAPTER XVIII.

CAPE VIRGIN TO FALKLAND ISLANDS AND MONTE VIDEO.

Our first haul in the Atlantic— The Jason Islands — Eddystone Eock— Cape Pembroke, Falkland Islands, in sight — Enter Port William— Anchor off Stanley — The settlement — Climate — Death of an able seaman by drowning — Leave for Port Louis — Anchor in Berkley Bay — Funeral of our late shipmate — Beturn to Stanley — The stream of stones— Leaving the xvi CONTENTS.

Falklands — Stormy weather — Sounding and trawling— Sight the land — Off Lobos Island— Pass Maldonado Point — Steaming np the Eio de la Plata — Anchor off Monte Video — The city and suburbs 364

CHAPTEK XIX.

MONTE VIDEO TO ASCENSION AND THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS.

Leave Monte Video — Swinging ship — Sounding and dredging in the Eiver La Plata— A Pampara off the coast— Enter the cold current — Its course — Completion of the voyage round the world — What has been accomplished — Course shaped for Ascension — South-east trades — Arrive at Ascension — The garrison — George Town — Scenery — The Green Mountain — Ascension turtle — Leave Ascension — Sounding — Cross the Equator for the sixth time — The oppressive region of equatorial calms — Steaming through the Tropics — Sight the Cape de Verde Islands— Arrive at Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — Leave for St. Vincent— Anchor in Porto Grande — Strong trade- winds 372

CHAPTEE XX.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Leave St. Vincent — Head- winds and disagreeable weather — Sight the coast of Spain — Anchor in Vigo Bay — The city— Channel fleet — Leave for England — Off Cape Finisterre — Favourable run across the Bay of Biscay — The English Channel — The coast of England — Anchor at Spithead (Portsmouth) — Arrive at Sheerness — Eetrospect — Pay off at Chatham— Parting — At home— The end 381

Appendix

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

View of St. Thomas, West Indies . . . Frontispiece.

Captain George S. N ares, R.N., F.R.S. . . . Title-page

The City of Lisbon, from the Tagus 7

Chemical Laboratory on Board the Challenger . . 9

Naturalists' Work-room on Board the Challenger . . 10

Sounding and Dredging Apparatus ] 2

The King of Portugal on Board the Challenger To face 16

Plaza Constitucion, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe ... 25

Sounding Accumulator 43

" Hydra" Sounding Machine 44

"Baillie" Sounding Machine 45

Valve Sounding Lead 46

Slip Water Bottle 47

" Buchanan's" Deep sea Water Bottle .... 49

" Miller-Casella" Deep-Sea Thermometer ... 50

Cup-lead 53

Deep-Sea Dredge 54

Dredging Accumulator 55

Camber and Floating Dock, Bermuda 59

Oceanic Sections (St. Thomas to Bermuda — Bermuda ) m * aa v \ J o face 68

to New York — Halifax to Bermuda) . . )

Natives of Santiago, Cape de Verde Islands ... 78

St. Paul's Rocks, North Atlantic 85

St. Paul's Rocks, from the East To face 86

Peak of Fernando Noronha, South Atlantic ... 88

View of Tristan d'Acunha 110

Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope Ill

ILLUSTBATIONS.

Christmas Harbour, Kerguelen Land

The Challenger amongst the Ice in the Antarctic \

Eegions (

Dredging on the Paramatta River, Sydney . . Sydney, from Pyrmont, Darling Harbour . . Natives op Tongatabu, Friendly Islands Street Architecture, Dobbo, Arru Islands . Natives of the Philippine Islands .... Indian Village on the Banks op the River Pasig, I

Manilla f

The Landing-place on Wild Island (Admiralty )

Islands) )

Village in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea .

Village in Wild Island, Nares Harbour, Admiralty \

Islands f

Ornaments of Dress, and Weapons, used by the ]

Natives of New Guinea and the Admiralty >

Islands j

Tomb of Will Adams and his Wife, near Yoko- )

suka, Japan f

Women on Horseback, Honolulu, Sandwich Islands Native Bamboo House, Tahiti, Society Islands . Tamarind Tree at Point Venus, Tahiti, Society )

Islands f

Customs Guard House, Valparaiso, Chili

The Challenger in Cumberland Bay, Juan Fer

nandez

Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan Straits .

Cape Froward, Straits of Magellan

The City of Monte Video, looking towards the )

Harbour (

To/ace

To/ace

To/ace

PAGE

124 146

160 178

202 228

262 269

.

.

To face

.

To face

CEUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Introduction

Not many years ago, in fact within the memory of the present generation, our knowledge of anything below the ocean's surface was extremely indefinite and obscure. It was even asserted that the specific gravity of the water at considerable depths would be so great that any heavy weight thrown into the sea must be arrested, and remain suspended for ever. It was argued that no animal life could possibly exist in the great depths of the ocean ; and only some fifteen years ago doubts were entertained whether some starfish brought up by a line from 1200 fathoms had not attached themselves to the line on its downward or upward course, and the very nature and habits of the animal were so modified as to suit this view.

There can be no doubt that the invention of ocean telegraphy first stimulated the great desire as well as the necessity for a knowledge of the contour of the bed of the ocean. To insure success it was essential to know the configuration and the soundings of

B

CBUTSE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the sea, the shape and character of its bed, the nature of the creatures and plants that haunt its depths, the force and set of its currents, the figure and dimensions of the great ocean basins, and the temperature of the water at various depths.

Interesting as were the results of the various early sounding expeditions, it was not until 1868 that anything like a systematic examination of the ocean's bed was undertaken in connection with natural history and physical geography. In that year the Royal Society succeeded in getting H.M.S. Lightning placed at their disposal for some six weeks ; and though for so brief a period, the results were such as to give great encouragement for further investigation. Although no great depth of water was obtained in sounding, dredging was effected in 650 fathoms, a greater depth than had hitherto been attempted. The next year (1869) the Council of the Royal Society were successful in securing H.M.S. Porcupine, which was fitted out for a more extended exploration of the deep sea ; and the experience of the previous year was brought to bear on the improvement of the means for the purpose in view.

The first cruise was between the latitudes of Cape Clear and Gal way, on the west coast of Ireland, where a series of soundings and dredgings were effected in 1500 fathoms (more than double that of the previous year), and many creatures of great interest obtained.

The second part of this cruise extended to the

INTRODUCTION.

south and west coast of Ireland, where a depth of 2400 fathoms was reached with successful results; and the third part extended over some portion of the survey of the previous year (between the coast of Scotland and the Faroe Islands). On the termination of this voyage (taking into account the time occupied and the extent of the investigations), the cruise of the Porcupine was considered to have done more to advance our knowledge of the physical condition of the ocean than had been achieved by any former expedition that ever left our shores.

In 1870 the Porcupine was again engaged in the service of the Council of the Royal Society, and proceeded at first in a south-westerly direction towards the farthest point to which the survey extended the year before, and afterwards to the coast of Portugal, and to Gibraltar, where a vast quantity of interesting and important data was obtained. In addition to the sounding and dredging, thermometric observations were constantly taken, proving even more successful than those obtained during the previous voyages. The results showed unsuspected variations in the deep-sea temperature, the existence of a general oceanic circulation, and the presence of life at the greatest depths. The scientific and practical importance of the facts revealed by these short and imperfect inquiries was such as to render their continuance a matter of national concern : so much so that the Council of the Royal Society brought before

b 2

CBULSE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the Government a project for extended investigation, which was eventually approved of, and a committee appointed to prepare the plans of operation.

It was suggested that a vessel should be fitted out for a three or four years' cruise, during which time sounding, dredging, thermometric observation, and chemical examination of sea-water should be carried on continuously, with a view to a more perfect knowledge of the physical and biological conditions of the great ocean basins, of the direction and velocity of the great drifts and currents, of the faunae of the deep water, and of the zoology and botany of those portions of the globe which are at present comparatively unknown.

II. M.S. Challenger, a spar-decked corvette of 2000 tons displacement and 400 horse-power, was selected to carry out these recommendations ; and the necessary alterations to fit her for the service on which she was to be employed were made in the dockyard at Sheerness. With the exception of two 64-pounders, all the guns on the main deck were removed, so as to obtain the required accommodation. In addition to cabins for the Captain, Commander, and Director of the Scientific Staff, there were spacious compartments for surveying operations and analysing purposes, a laboratory for the chemist, and a studio for the photographer, all fitted with every appliance which skill and science could suggest. On the upper deck stood an 18-horse double-cylinder

INTBODUCTION.

engine, with shafting and drums for heaving in the dredging and sounding-lines, extending entirely across the ship ; and on the after-part of the deck, besides the usual standard and other compasses, was the Fox dipping-circle, with which it was intended to make an extensive daily series of magnetic observations.

From the Hydrographic Department at the Admiralty a code of instructions was issued, regulating the daily routine to be carried out whenever the weather and other circumstances permitted. The Challenger, after visiting Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Madeira, was to proceed across the Atlantic, through the trade- wind region, to the Virgin Islands ; thence to Bermuda, onward to the coast of North America ; and eastward again to the Azores, and thence to the Canaries, Cape de Yerde, and to the equatorial regions — which were to be thoroughly investigated — westward to St. Paul's Rocks, Fernando de Noronha, and to the coast of Brazil. After leaving Bahia, it was desirable that the island of Trinidad, Martin Vaz, and Tristan d'Acunha should be visited on the passage across the South Atlantic to the Cape of Good Hope, which it was expected would be reached at the close of 1873.

From the Cape it was proposed to examine the small groups of islands of Marion and Crozet, and to visit Kerguelen Land; from which the expedition was directed to proceed as far south as safety would permit in the neighbourhood of the Antarctic ice-

CRUISE OF H.MS. CHALLENGER.

barrier, and after a short survey to sail for Melbourne, Sydney, and the ports of New Zealand. If time and other circumstances would permit, it was intended again to proceed south, for the purpose of visiting the small islands of Campbell, Macquarie, Auckland, &c; then again north, sailing to Friendly and Fiji Islands, onward through the Coral Sea ; visiting the south coast of New Guinea, passing Torres Straits and the Arafura Sea, calling at Timor and Macassar, thence shaping our course through the Celebes and Sulu Seas to Manilla, which would probably be reached in November 1874.