The Company of adventurers; a narrative of seven years in the service of the Hudson's Bay company during 1867-1874, on the great buffalo plains, with historical and biographical notes and comments

Front matter

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Preface

To preserve in print some of the recollections of personal ^ experiences and oral history of the West, which are so quickly perishing by the departure of old pioneers and frontiersmen on the last lone trail, I was asked by Mr. W. Sanford Evans, Editor of The Winnipeg Telegram, in 1902, and by Mr. J. W. Dafoe, Editor of The Manitoba Free Press, in 1912, to contribute a series of articles to their Saturday issues. As other older-timers, who were much better qualified, refrained from taking up their pens in the good cause, I was happy to avail myself of the opportunities so liberally accorded me by these influential periodicals. While I felt sure of finding, for my simple narrative of things as they were, indulgent appreciation by the old-timers generally, I was not prepared for the interest shown in the parts already published by so many of the newcomers, who are the pioneers of the present in this land of yet untouched — perhaps undreamt — natural resources. To meet a demand, often kindly expressed to me by those interested in the past, to have these published articles put in a collected form, and to bring down my recollections to a definite period, arrangements were made to bring out this book, ending with the time I left Fort Qu'Appelle, before the Mounted Police took effective possession of the plains, in June, 1874.

Herein are republished from The Manitoba Free Press, with slight corrections, mainly of typographical errors, the articles which I proposed in the Foreword thereto, down to " Summer Journey to Cypress Hills, 1868." Then, the estimated space ^

PREFACE

for the whole of the proposed series of articles having been exceeded, further publication ceased. When Dr. William Briggs undertook to bring out this book it was estimated that one of 316 pages would cover the period from the summer of 1868 to the spring of 1874, it being impossible to include in a book of ordinary size as well what might have been written of Lake Manitoba, He a la Crosse, Portage la Loche and Athabasca; but the 316 pages have been exceeded beyond expectation, and I have learned the wisdom of first completing the manuscript of a book ere making a contract for its publication. As a consequence of this and the rush of other work on the publisher, the issue of the book has been delayed far beyond the time at which I hoped it might appear.

The arrangement with the publisher having been- contingent upon my obtaining a sufficient number of subscribers, I now have the pleasure of thanking those whose kindness enabled me to guarantee him against loss; and I take pride in appending the list, which contains so many eminent and respected names.

For the illustrations I here record my grateful obligations to Dr. Doughty, Dominion Archivist, for the sketches by a Swiss Selkirk settler in 1821-2; to Mrs. Cowan, the widow of Dr. William Cowan (who was in charge of Fort Garry when it was seized by Riel in 1869), for many photographs of Hudson's Bay officials ; to Mr. J. G. M. Christie for the picture of his grandfather. Governor Christie; to Mr. W. J. McLean for that of York Factory, by his father-in-law. Chief Trader Murray ; and to retired Chief Factor William Clark for the view of Norway House so beautifully taken by Chief Factor James McDougall. My special acknowledgments are

PBEFACE

due to Mr. Edward Lawson, artist on the staff of The Manitoba Free Press, for touching up the Swiss artistes sketches for printing, and for drawing from my rude diagrams the bird's-eye view of Fort Qu'Appelle in 1867.

The country in which the Qu'Appelle Indians hunted and fought lay south and west from the great Saskatchewan trail which, passing north of Touchwood Hills to the North Saskatchewan at Carlton, followed the course of that river to Edmonton and terminated in pack trails through the Eocky Mountains. Distinguished travellers took that route, and wrote a;hout the Saskatchewan country as the scene of their hunting exploits. The British and Canadian exploring expeditions of 1858-9, under Captain Palliser and Professor Hind, respectively, failed to cross the Couteau de Missouri to the south-west, and their farthest point west was only a few miles along the South Saskatchewan beyond the Elbow. Beyond the Couteau and the Elbow their native guides and men refused to proceed ; for these marked, at that period, the limit of the hunting-grounds won by the Crees and their allies from the Blackfeet and other hostile tribes. To reach the Cypre (erroneously now called "Cypress") Hills, Palliser was obliged to go round by Edmonton, where he obtained Blackfoot guides and men acquainted with that tribe to accompany him in suflficient force to ensure tolerance on the journey south to the hills. Even under these circumstances his followers made the journey with fear and reluctance.

In 1859 the Eight Honourable Henry Chaplin and the late Sir Frederick Johnstone made a buffalo-hunting dash across the Couteau to the Old Wives' Lakes, to which Mr. Archibald McDonald gave their names, that now appear on maps; but

PEEFACE

they published no record of their intrusion into the country lying west of the Couteau and stretching to the Cypre Hills, which continued to be the battleground between the Qu'Appelle Indians and the Blackfoot Confederacy during my seven years on the plains. The scene of my story is largely in this region, whose records, up to the spring of 1874, have never before been written.

The limits of an ordinary book have rendered the mention of many interesting persons and incidents impossible, but, I hope, the facts herein derived from my own experience and from the credible information of others may prove of some historical value in the future and also be of interest to people of the present day. The only apology I have to make for " rushing into print '^ is already given in the Foreword — none of those who were better qualified seemed willing to take up the task. These, however, may have the goodness to correct and amplify the statements herein contairied. Indeed, I hope, in view of a possible second edition, that anyone noting any error or omission will have the kindness to point it out to me; for I am anxious that the book may furnish reliable data of history for future reference.

Isaac Cowie.

Thanksgiving Day, 20th October, 1913.

LIST OF SUBSCEIBERS FOE "THE COMPANY OF ADVENTURERS"

E. D. Adams, broker, Calgary 1884

Robert Adamson, Dominion Immigration OflBce, Winnipeg. 1880

Adanac Club, Winnipeg

Alberta Government Library, Edmonton

W. G. Alcock, fruit grower, Collingwood East, B.C 1869

W. C. Alderson, retired C.P.R. service, Winnipeg (2 copies) 1878

Montague Aldous, D.T.S., Winnipeg

Heber Archibald, K.C., Winnipeg (2 copies)

Robert Asham, farmer, Kinosoto, Manitoba

J. H, Ashdown, merchant, Winnipeg 1868

A. Bain, financial agent, Winnipeg 1880

Reginald Beatty, general agent, Melfort, Saskatchewan... 1872

Hon. Justice N. D. Beck, Edmonton

Charles N. Bell, F.R.G.S., Secretary Board of Trade, Winnipeg 1870

Joseph Bell, C.A., Winnipeg 1908

T. D. Bell, land agent, Vancouver, B.C

James R. Bird, M.D., Whitewood, Saskatchewan ... Born in 1863

George Black, Provincial Auditor, Winnipeg 1870

Thomas Black, merchant, Winnipeg 1872

R. J. Blanchard, M.D., surgeon, Winnipeg 1879

Rev. S. G. Bland, D.D., Winnipeg

J. T. Blowey, retired merchant, Vancouver, B.C. (2 copies) ....

Charles B. Booth, grocer, Winnipeg

H. N. Bowman, law clerk, Winnipeg 1898

John C. F, Bown, K.C., Edmonton

J. W. Briggs, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1883

Alfred Brown, retired, Edmonton

Edward Brown, broker, Winnipeg 1888

Thomas Bruce, insurance manager, Winnipeg 1889

Robert Bullock, retired merchant, Selkirk, Manitoba

LIST OF SUBSCEIBEES

W. J. Bulman, lithographer, Winnipeg. Born in W. Canada

John R. Bunn, Inspector of Indian Agencies, Winnipeg.

Born in Western Canada

Acton Burrows, publisher, Toronto 1879

Theodore A. Burrows, ex-M.P., Winnipeg (3 copies) 1875

Lawrence Burpee, Secretary International Joint Commission, Ottawa

Donald Cameron, farmer, Headingly, Manitoba Born in 1838

Henry Cameron, manufacturers' agent, Winnipeg 1883

John Cameron, mine owner, Edmonton 1876

W. G. Campbell, M.D., Winnipeg

Canadian Bank of Commerce, Toronto

J. F. Caldwell, retired, Winnipeg

Horace Chevrier, merchant, Winnipeg

J. G. M. Christie, H. B. officer, Winnipeg (2 copies) .Born in 1857

C. T. Christie, H. B. officer, Mackenzie River Born in 1864

William Clark, retired Chief Factor, H.B.C., Winnipeg (2

copies) 1861

A. C. Clare, farmer, St. Andrews, Manitoba Born in 1866

Sir Thomas Clouston, M.D., Edinburgh

Alfred A. Codd, real estate agent, Victoria, B.C

M. C. Colcleugh, druggist, Winnipeg (5 copies)

Very Rev. Dean Coombs, The Deanery, Winnipeg

J. K. Cornwall, M.L.A., Edmonton

J. W. Dafoe, editor Manitoba Free Press, Winnipeg

A. R. Davidson, capitalist, Winnipeg (5 copies) 1902

Judge Dawson, Winnipeg 1881

W. T. Devlin, merchant, Winnipeg 1882

Dominion Government Public Printing Department,

Ottawa (2 copies)

Dr. A. G. Doughty, Dominion Archivist, Ottawa

George Drever, retired H. B. officer, Cupar, Saskatchewan. 1870

Frederick W. Drewery, Redwood Factories, Winnipeg

R. C. Edwards, journalist, Calgary '

J. L. Elvin, business broker, Winnipeg

E. C. Emery, barrister, Edmonton

C. H. Enderton, real estate agent, Winnipeg (2 copies)

John Erzinger, Swiss Consul, Winnipeg

W. J. Finucan, manager Merchants Bank, Winnipeg 1911

LIST OF SUBSCEIBERS

E. Bailey Fisher, barrister, Winnipeg 1889

W. M. Fisher, retired financial agent, Winnipeg

Joseph Fletcher, distributor of stamps, P. 0., Winnipeg

Senator Forget, Banff, Alberta

William Frank, real estate agent, Winnipeg

John Freeman, conductor, C.P.R., Winnipeg

J. H. Gariepy, retired merchant, Edmonton (2 copies)

W. L. Gariepy, barrister, Edmonton

W. Scott Garrioch, real estate agent. Portage la Prairie

William T. Gibbins, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1872

G. A. Glines, broker, Winnipeg (2 copies)

L. A. Goodridge, hotelkeeper, Edmonton

Rev. Charles W. Gordon, D.D., Winnipeg

James Ogden Grahame, retired Chief Trader H.B.C., Victoria, B.C. (2 copies). Born in Western Canada

Donald Grant, insurance agent, Winnipeg

Captain William Grassie, 79th Highlanders, Winnipeg (3

copies)

Lieut.-Colonel W. A. Griesbach, Edmonton. Born in

John A. Gray, clerk, St. Andrews, Manitoba 1907

F. T. Griffin, Land Commissioner C.P.R., Winnipeg 1883

C. S. Gunn, broker, Winnipeg

Rev. H. G. Gunn, Lockport, Manitoba. Born in W. Canada

John Gunn, LL.D., editor, Edinburgh

Peter Gunn, M.L.A., Lac Ste. Anne, Alberta 1883

R. E. Gunn, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1875

John Haffner, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1882

John Holroyde, manager Commercial Union Assurance

Co., Winnipeg

George Ham, Literature Manager, C.P.R., Montreal

Basil G. Hamilton, land agent, Invermere, B.C 1890

James Hargrave, rancher. Medicine Hat, Alberta 1867

Charles Hay, ex-M.L.A., Manitoba; now Vancouver, B.C.

Thomas Hay, Reeve of St. Clements, Manitoba. Born in

Robert Hockley, agent, Edmonton (2 copies)

J. T. Huggard, barrister, Winnipeg 1872

E. F: Hutchings, manufacturer, Winnipeg 1876

W, J. Healy, journalist, Winnipeg

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

Harry Heap, broker, Selkirk, Manitoba 1900

Hon. William Hespler, Winnipeg 1873

Frank C. Ingrams, Secretary, Hudson's Bay Co., London

Hon. Colin Inkster, Sheriff, Winnipeg. Born in W. Canada

Lieut.-Colonel Jamieson, Edmonton 1893

St. George Jellett, insurance agent, Edmonton

Edwin Johnstone, accountant, Winnipeg

Miss M. L. Kennedy, The Terrace, Virden, Manitoba (2

copies) . Born in Western Canada

R. W. Kenny, M.D., surgeon, Winnipeg

George J. Kinnaird, accountant, Edmonton (3 copies) 1876

Senator Kirchoffer, Brandon

Senator A. A. C. LaRiviere, Ottawa

Mrs. J. E. LaRoque, Punnichy, Saskatchewan

Rt. Hon. Sir Wilfrid Laurier, Ottawa

Miss Agnes C. Laut, authoress, Wassaic, Duchess County,

New York

L. C. Lawrence, contractor, Winnipeg

Very Rev. Vicar General Leduc, O.M.I., St. Albert, Alberta. 1866

Legislative Library of Saskatchewan, Regina (2 copies)

Captain John Leslie, 100th Grenadiers, Winnipeg (6 copies)

N. G. Leslie, manager Imperial Bank, Winnipeg

W. Rowe Lewis, real estate broker, Winnipeg 1881

Philip C. Locke, barrister, Winnipeg

Senator Lougheed, Calgary

Victor Mager, President, Pioneers of Rupert's Land, St.

Boniface (3 copies) 1858

C. A. Magrath, C.E., ex-M.P., International Joint Commission, Ottawa

Charles Mair, poet and author, Fort Steele, B.C. (2 copies) 1868

Chester Martin, Professor of History, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg

Duncan Matheson, retired Factor, H.B.C., Inverness, Scotland 1864

Lieut.-Colonel J. B. Mitchell, Winnipeg

H. J. Moberly, retired Chief Trader, H.B.C., Duck Lake,

Saskatchewan 1854

Hon. W. H. Montague, M.D., Winnipeg

John Mooney, clerk, Kirkwall, Orkney

John G. Morgan, insurance agent, Winnipeg 1880

Rev. A. G. Morice, historian, St. Boniface

LIST OF SUBSCEIBERS

John G. Mowat, clerk H.B.C., Moose Factory. Born in

W. Redford Mulock, K.C., barrister, Winnipeg

Alexander Munro, retired clerk H.B.C., Minitonas, Manitoba 1860

James Munroe, Lord Selkirk Settlers' Association, Winnipeg. Born in Western Canada

J. H. Munson, K.C., barrister, Winnipeg 1881 .

W. W. Musgrove, M.D., Winnipeg. Born in W. Canada

D. W. MacDonald, druggist, Edmonton

R. MacFarlane, retired Chief Factor H.B.C., Winnipeg (2

copies) 1852

Venerable Archdeacon J. A. MacKay, Prince Albert, Saskatchewan. Born in Western Canada

Hugh MacKenzie, barrister, Winnipeg

Rev. Dr. John MacLean, author, Winnipeg

George Stewart MacRae, prospector, Selkirk, Manitoba... 1873

A. McAllister, wholesale stationer, Winnipeg

Archibald McDonald, retired Chief Factor H.B.C., Fort

Qu'Appelle, Saskatchewan 1854

Donald H. McDonald, private banker, Fort Qu'Appelle,

Donald McDonald, fur trader (late H. B. Co.), Fairford,

Manitoba (2 copies) 1862

E. C. McDonald, farmer, Lockport, Man. Born in W. Canada

James H. McDonald, broker, Strathcona, Alberta

James McDougall, retired Chief Factor H.B.C., Victoria,

Rev. John McDougall, D.D., Calgary 1860

John McDougald, Commissioner of Customs, Ottawa

M. W. N. McElheran, Stovel Co., Winnipeg

D. A. Mclvor, fur trader, Norway House, Manitoba 1877

J. D. Mcintosh, librarian, Winnipeg 1882

Daniel Mclntyre, LL.D., Superintendent of Schools, Winnipeg

James McKay, K.C., M.P., Prince Albert, Saskatchewan (5

copies) . Born in Western Canada

Hon. Thomas McKay, farmer. Prince Albert, Saskatchewan

(2 copies) . Born in Western Canada

W. C. McKay, M.L.A., farmer, Prince Albert, Saskatchewan Born in 1858

N. E. McKechnie, salesman. Prince Albert, Saskatchewan

Greorge McKenzie, retired H.B.C. officer, Winnipeg, Born in

XI

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

Lieut.-Colonel Archibald McLean, Ottawa

W. J. McLean, ex-H. B. officer. President Old Timers' Association, Winnipeg 1859

H. C. McLeod, fur trader, Cross Lake, Nelson River 1874

J. A. McLeod, farmer, Armstrong, B.C

John W. McLeod, Clerk Executive Council, Regina 1878

Lendrum McMeans, K.C., M.L.A., Winnipeg 1872

Hon. Sir Daniel H. McMillan, Winnipeg 1870

Donald C. McTavish, retired Chief Factor H.B.C., Colborne,

. Ontario 1864

Gordon C. McTavish, barrister, Winnipeg

Major W. Hill Nash, Winnipeg 1870

William Nimmons, retired farmer, Victoria, B.C 1869

Alexander Norquay, Dominion Lands Agent, Edmonton. Born in Western Canada

Andrew J. Norquay, broker, Winnipeg. Born in W. Canada

Hon. Frank Oliver, M.P., Edmonton (12 copies) 1873

F. H. Paget, Indian Office, Ottawa

S. K. Parson, retired Chief Factor H.B.C., Montreal 1862

J. H. Pickard, retired merchant, Edmonton

O. H. Pollard, printer, Winnipeg

T. J. Porte, jeweller, Winnipeg 1897

Mrs. C. A. Pritchard, Prince Albert

R. A. Pritchard, banker. Prince Albert

Provincial Library of British Columbia, Victoria, B.C

Provincial Library of Manitoba, Winnipeg (2 copies)

William Pruden, farmer, Talbot, Alberta Born in 1869

W. J. Ptolemy, Deputy Provincial Treasurer, Winnipeg

Rt. Rev. Bishop Reeve, D.D., Toronto 1869

Captain Hugh Richardson, Department of Indian Affairs,

Hon. W. J. Roche, M.D., M.P., Minister of the Interior,

Ottawa

W. D. Rogers, farmer, Prince Albert

Hon. W. R. Ross, Minister of Lands, Victoria, B.C. Born in

Hon. Philippe Roy, M.D., General Commissioner for Canada, Paris, France

Arthur Robertson, retired broker, Victoria, B.C 1883

W. Scott Robertson, sheriff, Edmonton

W. J. Robinson, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1880

LIST OF SUBSCRIBEES

Edgar W. Rugg, publisher, Winnipeg 1882

Most Reverend Archbishop of Rupert's Land, Winnipeg. Born in Western Canada

Hon. A. C. Rutherford, LL.D., ex-Premier of Alberta,

Strathcona

Colonel H. N. Ruttan, C.E., Winnipeg

George H. Saults, printer, Winnipeg

James Scott, real estate agent, Winnipeg (2 copies) 1879

Osborne Scott, passenger agent C.N.R., Winnipeg. Born in

Lieut.-Colonel Thomas Scott, ex-Collector of Customs, Winnipeg 1870

Hon. Walter Scott, Premier of Saskatchewan, Regina

E. C. Scythes, broker, Winnipeg

Richard Secord, capitalist, Edmonton

Rt. Hon. the Countess of Selkirk, London

George H. Shaw, General Traffic Manager, C. N. Ry., Toronto

C. D. Shepard, real estate broker, Winnipeg

William Short, K.C., Mayor of Edmonton

Adam Shortt, M.A., C.M.G., Civil Service Commission,

Ottawa

Mrs. J. B. Simpson, Secretary Women's Canadian Historical Society, Ottawa

W. Scott Simpson, Indian Agent, Telegraph Creek, B.C. (3

copies) . Born in Western Canada

C. C. Sinclair, manager. Peace River Land & Trading Co.,

Edmonton (2 copies). Born in Western Canada

John E. Sinclair, Dominion Fisheries Commissioner, Prince

Albert (2 copies). Born in Western Canada

Captain John M. Smith, late H.B.C., Birds' Hill, Manitoba. . 1871 J. Obed Smith, Dominion Commissioner of Immigration,

London, S.W 1882

Richard W. Smith, accountant, Winnipeg 1884

Robert Russell Smith, pioneer rancher. Devil's Lake, Saskatchewan (2 copies) 1868

R. W. Smith, farmer, Dauphin, Manitoba 1865

Thomas H. Smith, ex-M.L.A., Springfield, Manitoba 1865

William Thomson Smith, financial agent, London, Ont. . . . 1858

F. R. Sproule, barrister-at-law, Winnipeg

W. J. Squires, Winnipeg Cab Co., Winnipeg 1874

G. S, Sutherland, farmer, Kipiegun, Manitoba. Born in

LIST OF SUBSCEIBERS

R. Ross Sutherland, barrister-at-law, Victoria, B.C. (Lord

Selkirk's Settlers Association) Born in 1862

Hay Stead, journalist, Winnipeg

Colonel S. B. Steele, C.B., M.V.O., D.O.C., Military District

10, Fort Osborne, Winnipeg (2 copies) 1870

Herbert C. Stevenson, farmer, St. Louis Guilbert, Manitoba

Andrew Strang, Collector of Customs, Winnipeg 1868

W. E. Strang, merchant, Winnipeg. Born in W. Canada

Strathcona Public Library, South Edmonton (2 copies)

R. D. Stratton, barrister, Winnipeg 1902

E. A. Struthers, Western Agent, Dr. Barnardo's Homes,

Magnus Tait, farmer, Mervin, Saskatchewan

Alexander Taylor, Clerk of Supreme Court, Edmonton

Judge H. C. Taylor, Edmonton

Thomas W. Taylor, M.L.A., Winnipeg 1877

Joseph M. Tees, Secretary Army and Navy Veteran Association, Winnipeg 1880

D. M. Telford, H. M. Customs, Winnipeg

J. A. Thompson, real estate agent, Winnipeg 1882

James Thomson, Land Commissioner, Hudson's Bay Co.,

Winnipeg (2 copies)

Capel Tilt, broker, Grain Exchange, Winnipeg

James H. Tofield, M.D., Tofield, Alberta

W. E. Traill, retired Chief Trader H.B.C., Meskanaw, Saskatchewan 1864

Thomas Turnbull, C.E., Winnipeg

T. M. Turnbull, Canadian Bank of Commerce, Edmonton

J. P. Turner, insurance agent, Winnipeg

Charles Vokes, financial agent, Winnipeg

A. E. Voyer, telegraphist, Edmonton

L. A. Walch, real estate dealer, Winnipeg

Robety C. Wallace, D.Sc, Professor of Geology and Mineralogy, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg

J. Bruce Walker, Commissioner of Immigration, Winnipeg 1903

Arthur Wickson, retired banker, Winnipeg 1882

John Williams, retired insurance agent, Winnipeg 1882

H. F. Willson, Willson Stationery Co., Winnipeg 1900

David Wilson, accountant. Fort Qu'Appelle, Sask 1904

J. A. Wilson, Manitoba Civil Service, Winnipeg

Winnipeg Public Library, Winnipeg (2 copies)

C. A. Whipple, artist. New York

Sir William Whyte, Winnipeg 1886

David Young, M.D., Winnipeg

Henry Young, solicitor, Winnipeg

Walter B. Young, C.E., Winnipeg

PAGE

Foreword to the Articles which were Published in Saturday Issues of the " Manitoba Free Press " from February 17th to December 14th, 1912 . . . .27

Introduction 31

CHAPTER I. The Orkney Islanders and Rupert's Land

The Orkney Pioneers of Red River — York Factory versus

Montreal— The Origins of the Halfbreeds ... 61

Chapter II

The " Prince Rupert," Her Crew, Cargo and Passengers.

Form of Contract Between the Employees and the Company — Neither Board nor Lodging — Land Grants Promised — Many Still Withheld— The "Prince Rupert" Described — The Crew — Passengers — The Cargo — Cabin Fare and the Mate 67

CHAPTER III. "Across the Western Ocean."

All Aboard — Hoist Blue Peter — Upon the Atlantic — Dog Watch Entertainments — The Bo'sun Bold — Spun Yarns — Exercise Below and Aloft — Sail Ho — Off Cape Farewell— Greenland's Icy Mountains — Crossing Davis Straits 79

CHAPTER IV. Through Straits and Bay

Off Cape Resolution — Savage Islands — Meet Yankee Whaler — Capes Wolstenholme and Digges — Storm and Fog — Round Mansfield Island — Anchor in York Roads — Cruise in the Gig — Our Mentor the Mate — The Hudson's Bay Route 88

2 15

CHAPTER V. YOEK Factoby. page

York Roads and Five Fathom Hole — " Ocean Nymph," a Yankee Whaler — We Disembark — Officers' Quarters — Bellicose Bachelors — The Commercial Capital of Rupert's Land — Far-sighted Business Methods — The Manufactures of York — Packing Goods for Portage — Eggs Not in One Basket — Description of the Factory — Valuable Library — Outside the Pickets — ^The Graveyards — Governor Sinclair's Descendants — OflScials of the Factory — Passengers to England— The Officers' Mess— Get Billets and Set to Work — The Minutes of Council — A Wedding — Kindness and Hospitality . . . 100

CHAPTER VI. Feom Inland Sea to Lake Inland — ^Yobk Factory to Norway

House.

Our Chums at York — Prepare to Start — ^Voyaging Outfit and Rations — The Red River Brigade — The Hayes' River Route — Tracking Up Stream — The Spur of Rivalry — By Strength and Skill — " Fortitude in Distress " — The Voyageurs' Food — The Black Cup that Cheers — Muscle Driven Transport — The Highland Laddies — Our First Camp — " 'Leve 'Leve " — The Scenery Improves — ^Absence of Game — Picturesque Hill River — "With a Long, Strong Pull" — Sailing Race on Knee Lake — The "Long" Portage Brigade — Oxford House — Through Hell Gates — Tournaments of the Tripmen — ^The Height of Land — Norway House 115

CHAPTER VII. Norway House and Across Lake Winnipeg

Norway House — Norwegians — "Divide and Rule" — Important Base — The First Hudson's Bay Road — Where East and West Meet — Manning the Boats — The "Bucking" Brigades — The Old York Boat Freight Rates — Wintering and Training Recruits — Place Well Kept, With Fine Garden — Chief Factor James Green Stewart — The Swan River Boats — Other Good Fellows — On Lake Winnipeg — A " Whoop Up " on Board— Mouth of Red River . . 132

CHAPTER VIII. In the Red Rivee Settlement. page

St. Peters — At Lower Port Garry — Prom Lower to Upper Port Garry — Demerara Rum and Red River Whiskey — Invisible Winnipeg — At Port Garry — J. J. Hargrave — Other Notables — Predisposing Causes of the Red River Troubles — ^A Contented Community — Governed by Consent of the Governed — A Benevolent Despotism Tempered by Riot — The Stone Ports and Their Builder — Governor Christie 147

Chapter IX

The Rise of Poet Garey and the Decline of Yoek Factoby.

Increasing Traffic with the U.S. — ^York Sidetracked — Cuthbert Grant — Metis Warlike Virtues — A Burden of a Beast — My French Chef — Poplar Point — Portage la Prairie — Its Honoured Founders — " Governor " Spence, His Reign — Bill Watt, O'Donoghue's Captor — Join Swan River Men 166

CHAPTER X. Swan Rivee Disteict

Brandon — Chief Factor Colin Robertson — Fort Ellice — Walter Traill— " Billy " McKay, Chief Trader— Rev. Thomas Cook— The Buffalo "Go West"— The Sioux— Pazzyotah, Buffoon or Fiend? — A Good Time — The Officers Stationed in Swan River, Outfit 1867 — Gaelic Predominates— Old Highland Feuds . . . .178

CHAPTER XI. Qu'Appelle

Leave Fort Ellice — Indians Against Bi-lingualism— Tom Lamack — Wooded Country — The Indian Gun — Long Barrels — Elk Antler Hill — The Calling River — Pavel a Fisherman — About the Ponies — ^At the Fort — The Mc- Donalds— The Assiniboines or Stonies — The Blackfeet — Religion and Rum — A Post of Danger and of Honour 194

CHAPTER XII. A Buffalo "Pbovision Post." page

La Belle Qu'Appelle — The Lovely Lakes — Fort Qu'Appelle — The People of the Fort — " Jerry " McKay, Interpreter — Alick Fisher, Horseguard and Counsellor — The Rest of the Garrison . . .209

CHAPTER XIIL

My Initiation.

Experientia Docet — Good Reading — Lynx and Whitefish — The Account Books — Post Accounts — The Journal of Daily Occurrences — Perished Historical Records — The Indian Debt Book — My First Temporary Charge — A Real Greenhand — ^A Native Dandy — ^Attempt to " Play Over " a Moonyass — A Real Indian Missionary — A Traveller from New Caledonia — An Imperialist Free Trader — Fooled on a Silver Fox — Kanocees 223

CHAPTER XIV. A Winter Trip to the Plains

Jack Frost — " Tender Feet " and Native Born-Chief, " Growing Thunder" — The Misinhygan Amulet — Heliographic Signals — Tayputinum Perishes in a Blizzard — On the First Ice — Christmas and New Year — First Trip with a Dog Train — Blizzard on the Prairie — At the Pile of Bones — At the Turn — Buffalo Bulls — Prairie Wolves . 240

Chapter XV

Wood Mountain, Old Wives' Creek, and Return Trip to Qu'Appelle.

Crossing the Couteau — Safety Beneath the Snow — Arrive at Wood Mountain — Henry Jordan — ^The Americans on the Missouri — Furs, etc., on Hand at Wood Mountain — The Assiniboines — My Friend Flemmand — Old Wives' Creek — Start for the Fort — In Terror of the Old Wives — Again Cross the Grande Couteau — The Fury of Flemmand— It Abates — Another Flare-Up Extinguished — The Pile of Bones and their Ghosts — The Driver Driven . 253

CHAPTER XVI. The Close of the Fub Trade Yeab. page

Winter Packets — Spring the Busy Season — Indian Debts — Arrival of Cree Chief — Pipe of Peace — Packing the Furs — ^Athletics — Trading in Sterling and Skins — Closing the Outfit 271

Chapter XVII

A New Teade Yeab Begins — Cast Tbip to Indian Camp.

Accounts and " Returns " Sent to York — Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Finlayson — The Robes go to Fort Garry — Early Summer — Newsmongers — Prowling Sioux Spies — My First Summer Trip to the Plains — Surprised by Indians — Defeated Warriors — Scouting Ahead — Fresh Buffalo Meat — Indian Legends 283

CHAPTER XVIII. The Camp of the Allied Tbibes

Woeful Wasite — Escort to Camp — Peter LaPierre — A Purveyor of Pemmican to the Queen — Big Camp of the Allies — " Cypress " Hills should be " Cypre " — A Neutral Ground — Blackfeet Massacre of Sixty Young Warriors — Cause of Conflict — Warriors' Council Lodge — Tariff for Revenue — Traders resist the Impost — Smouldering Enmities — Destruction of a Prairie Sodom and Gommorah 297

CHAPTER XIX. A Camp in Tubmoil

The Young Dogs Demand Tribute — I Knock Out Yellowhead — Led to Judgment — From Prisoner to Dictator — Great Slaughter of Blackfeet — The Company's Peaceful Policy — A Grand Whoop-Up — Female Police — ^All Traders Close — The Serenaders 310

CHAPTER XX. In the Midst of Alaems — A Grand Buffalo Hunt. page

Shift Camp— The Travois— The Pack Dog— Bad Water- Marching Order — The Fear of the Enemy — Bear Baiting— The Shadow Passes — Tempted of Conspirators — Charging the Buffalo— The Spoils of the Chase— A Night Attack — ^Yellowhead Begs a Solatium — ^We Plan to Depart 322

CHAPTER XXI. The Retubn Teip to the Fobt

Prepare to Break Bounds — ^The Camp Moves On — Stony Refugees Follow Us — Humphrey Favel, Renegade — Scout After Scout — ^A Forced March — A Natural Stronghold— Asleep on Guard — The Blackfeet Let Up — Wood Mountaineers Elope — The Party Disperses — Jerry and Traill Held Up 335

Chapter XXII

The Late Summeb of 1868 and Winteb of 1868-9.

An Explanation — A Thunderous Summer — Sioux Stampede U.S. Army Cattle — Police Duty — Flemmand as a Walking Advertisement — His Business Methods — Snowed Down in a Blizzard — Old Wives' Creek — Jacob Bear "Courte Oreille" 344

Chapter XXIII

Histoey of Foet Pelly and Visit to it in Winteb of 1868-9.

Fort Pelly — Dr. William Todd — Touchwood Hills — Qu'Appelle — James McKay — Edward Cyr — " Big " William Daniel — Archibald McDonald — Peter Hourie — History of Fort Pelly Resumed — It Becomes Capital of North-West Territories, under the Hon. David Laird — ^Adam McBeth — On Government Telegraph and Original Survey of Canada Pacific Railway — Closed for Business, June, 1912— A Visit to Fort Pelly, February, 1869— Opposing the Free Traders — Indians With a Little White Blood Surpass Real Indian as Trappers and Hunters — Tom

PAGB

McKay, Second in Command — ^William Thomson Smith, Accountant — Native Apprentices to Trades — Master Mechanics Generally Orkneymen — The Rev. Luke Coldwell — The Horseguard — Imported Stallions, "Fireaway" and " Melbourne " — Thomas Manitou Keesick, Horseguard and Long Distance Runner — ^Astride Two Religions— Runs Down Wolves 356

CHAPTER XXIV. The Summee of 1869

Attempt to Use Boats on the Upper Qu'Appelle — Touchwood Hills Becomes an Outpost of Qu'Appelle — Failure of the Boating Experiment — Deserting Boatmen — Buffalo Come Close — Moving Millions — A Lone Hunt — A Camp of Plenty — Total Eclipse of Sun — Blackskin, Eclipse- Breaker — My First Buffalo Bull — Smallpox on the Missouri — Messrs. Pascal Breland and Salomon Amlin — Vaccinate Qu'Appelle Indians — Prevention Better Than Cure — Heroic Devotion of the Missionaries and Traill — W. E. Traill Nearly Decapitated 370

CHAPTER XXV. Last Mountain Winteb, 1869-70

Built by Postmaster Joseph McKay — He Looks After the Indian Trade — I Take Charge — Native Antiseptic Surgery— On the Trail — A Blizzard — Indian Hospitality — ^At Last Mountain Post — Whisky Raises Hell Among the Indians — Piapot, " Lord of Heaven and Earth " — Blackskin, the Brute — Metis Festivities — " The New Nation " —The Red River Rebellion— Frozen Feet— Wood Saulteaux on Warpath — One Attempts to Break Into Store — McNab Kicks Him Off the Premises . . . .384

CHAPTER XXVI. Spring and Eaely Summee of 1870

Gathering of the Clans — Crees Resent Intrusion of Metis — Daily Discussions — Great Meeting of Metis — The Queen's Proclamation Promulgated — Riel, a Man Inspired — Breland and Amlin Denounce the Killing of Scott and

PAGE

Advise Non-Participation with Riel — Fort Qu'Appelle Saved from Attack Thereby — Means to Prevent Pillage of Other Posts — Bwan McDonald at Manitoba Post — Swan River Pur Returns Sent Across Plains to St. Paul, Minnesota — We Hold the Fort with the Crees — The Coming of Wolseley — Spurn "the Protection" of the Provisional Government — Brown Bess Bellows . . 401

Chapter XXVII

The Hunters Return — Louison the Loyal — Failure of Summer Hunt — Dry, Lean, " Pounded Meat " — Hunters Come to Fish in the Lakes — McDonald Rewards and Punishes — ^All Pemmican Required for Northern Transport — My Post-Mates at Last Mountain — ^A Metis Medicine Man — Civilized Society — A Spring Trip to Dirt Hills — Flemmand Transmuted — Sitting Bull Robs a Company's Trader— A Man With a Buffalo Tooth— A Hard Trip to Qu'Appelle 414