Canada on the Pacific : being an account of a journey from Edmonton to the Pacific by the Peace River Valley : and of a winter voyage along the western coast of the Dominion : with remarks on the physical features of the Pacific Railway route and notices of the Indian tribes of British Columbia

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BEING AN ACCOUNT OF

Preface

HE following narrative comprises an account of a journey made to the Western Province of the Dominion, through a comparatively little known portion of the " Nor' -West " territory, and of a voyage along the whole Pacific coast of Canada.

The writer organized and conducted the overland expedition of Mr. Sandford Fleming, from Fort Garry to Edmonton, during the summer of 1872; and it was at the instance of that gentleman, who desired to exhaust the whole field of enquiry, before deciding upon a route for the Canada Pacific road, that the journey about to be described, was undertaken.

The Pine River Summit Lake Pass, referred to in this sketch, would also have been explored by me had time and circumstances permitted : but the period allotted for the journey, which included a visit to the river Skeena, compelled me to abandon the investigation of that locality. To the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, without exception, the best thanks are due for the hearty welcome and aid extended to Mr. Macoun (my colleague), and myself,

Preface.

during our journey. To Lieutenant Ballantyne, late of H. M. S. Sparrow-hawk, and Capt. Lewis, of H. B. Co.'s steamer Otter, I am indebted for much valuable information regarding the harbours, and also the Indians of the British Columbian coast. Mr. Macoun, botanist, of Belleville, Ont., has also contributed very important data regarding the flora and growing capabilities of the Peace River country. In the section exhibited, from Lesser Slave Lake to the Fraser River, the reader will kindlv bear in mind that absolute correctness is not to be expected. The elevations may be erroneous to the extent of one or two hundred feet ; and I shall consider my deductions fortunate, if I am within a hundred feet of the truth. To those conversant with engineering technicalities and the fluctuations of atmospheric pressure, these remarks are of course unnecessary.

Chas. Horetzky.

Ottawa, February, 1874.

Chapter I. Edmonton To Assiniboine

PAGE.

The Start for Peace River — Object of the Tour — Outline of Intended Route — Confused and Discouraging Reports — Our Party — Dinner al fresco — How to Cook Pemmican — A Miscellaneous Cavalcade — Mackenzie River Watershed — Lake La Nonne — The Odometer — Fording the Pembina — Heavy- Timber — Reach Fort Assiniboine 1

Chapter II. Assiniboine To Lesser Slave Lake

Description of the Fort — A lazy Half-breed — The Clearwater — Chain of Swamps — Pack train Travelling — Rich Pasturage— Lesser Slave Lake — Skirting the Lake — The Traverse — Effective Shooting — Roman Catholic Missions in the North- West— Climate 16

Chapter III. Lesser Slave Lake To Dunvegan

A Delightful Country — The Grand Muskeg— Half-way to Peace River — Back into the Prairies — A Rude Awakening — Prairie Fire — A Cache— The Great Peace River Valley — Noble Landscape — A Grateful Surprise — Dunvegan 29

Contents.

Chapter IV

DUNVEGAN TO FORT ST. JOHN.

Page.

Farming Facilities — Minerals — Rare Field for the Geologist — The Grande Prairie — A Grizzly — More Sociable than Pleasant — Pine River — Burnt District —Indian Encampment— Route over the Rocky Mountains — Obstinacy of Indian Guides 41

Chapter V

FORT ST. JOHN TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN PORTAGE.

Glimpse of Rocky Mountains — Portage Hill — Old Buffalo Tracks — Moose Steak — Mountain Terraces — A Stampede —Amateur Rafting — Riviere du Milieu — Hudson's Hope — Conversation under difficulties — Terrific Storm — Le Rapide qui ne parle pas 52

Chapter VI. Rocky Mountain Portage To Stewart's Lake

Past the Rocky Mountains — The Parsnip — Hardihood of Indian Voyageurs — A Mining Pioneer — Lake McLeod — First Winter Camp — Sagacious Dogs — Route of the Canada Pacific Railroad —Lake Stewart — Salmon — Fort St. James — Hudson Bay Company and North-West Discontent 65

Chapter VII. Stewart's Lake To Hazelton

Comfortless Encampment — Trout Fishing Extraordinary — The City of Hog'em — Frying Pan Pass — Lake Babine — Paddling for Life — Little Babine and Susqua — Invited to Christmas 83

Chapter VIII. Hazelton

Physical Features— The Skeena— An Indian Ranche— Romantic Bridge— Curious Carving — Christmas at the Diggings

Contents.

— Up the Skeena — The Wotsonqua — A "Cholera Box" — American Enterprise at fault— A hideous Canon — Characteristics of Miners 102

Chapter IX. Hazelton To Naas

Routes to the Coast— A Chinook Vocabulary useful — Skirting a Frozen River — Kitsigeuhle — Unpromising Quarters —A Greasy Caravan — Kitwangar Valley — Kitwancole — Pagan Orgies — Ingenious Carving — An Indian Mart — Lake Scenery — Welpamtoots — Valley of the Chean-howan — Trail lost — Muskeeboo — "Yorkshire" Indian — A Trying Walk — Naas Scenery — Alaska visible — Indian Suspension Bridge — Beyond the Chean-howan Canon — Valuable Silver Lode — Basaltic Columns — A Native Bal Masque" — Kitawn. 113

Chapter X. Naas To Fort Simpson

Detained by Rain — Hazardous Canoeing — Camping on the Sea Coast — Geographical Outlines — Salmon Cove — Observatory Inlet — An Avalanche — Naas Harbour — South Inlet — A Critical Five Minutes — Work Channel — Chimsean Peninsula — Birnie Island — Arrival at Fort Simpson — The Harbour — American Military Post — Moral and Religious Condition of the Indians —Canoe Building — Agricultural Facilities 134

Chapter XI. Fort Simpson To Nanaimo

On board the "Otter"— A " played-out " Boiler— Rose Spit —Graham Island— Masset Harbour — Clams — Mineral Wealth— A Nor'-Easter— Dundas Island— Fort Simpson again— Porcher Island— Arthur Channel— Seaforth— Bella Bella— Dean Channel— Bella Coula— The Old Route to Fraser River— Perilous Anchorage— King Island— Safety

X

Contents.

Cove — Queen Charlotte Sound — Beaver Harbour — Description of Scenery — Discovery Passage — Alberni Canal — The Canada Pacific Route — Cape Mudge — Port Augusta — Off Nanaimo 152

Chapter XIII. Nanaimo To San Francisco

Nanaimo — San Juan — The Boundary Dispute — Victoria — Esquimault — Olympia — Opposition Stages — A Humiliating Break-down — Washington Territory — A Model Hotel — Reach Portland — On board the "Oriflamme" — Astoria —

Arrival at San Francisco 184

CHAPTER XIV. The Canada Pacific Route , 194

APPENDIX I.

The Indians of British Columbia 210

APPENDIX H.

On the Topography, Climate and Geology of the Western limit of the Fertile Belt, with some remarks upon the Rocky Mountains and the Peace River 225

Chapter I. Edmonton To Assinibotne

The Start for Peace Eiver— Object of the Tour — Outline of Intended Route — Confused and Discouraging Reports — Our Party — Dinner al fresco — How to Cook Pemmican — A Miscellaneous Cavalcade — Mackenzie River Watershed — Lake La Nonne — The Odometer — Fording the Pembina — Heavy Timber — Reach Fort Assiniboine.

" SEl URRAH for the Peace River ! " Such was Ct, the joyous exclamation of our botanist, as, after waving an affectionate adieu to our late travelling companions, he turned upon his heel, and remarked to me in a manner peculiarly his own, " Now we shall soon settle McLeod's theory."

It must here be remarked by way of explanation that in the early part of 1872 a pamphlet, styled " The Peace River," had been published in the city of Ottawa, setting forth the possibility of a line of communication between the Eastern and Western parts of the Dominion of Canada, by the Yalley of the Peace River. The author of the article in question had, with great ingenuity, aided by extracts from an old Hudson's Bay Officer's Journal and

Diary, in imagination levelled up from the shores of Hudson's Bay to the summit of Peace River Pass, and after very closely (as~will be shown during the course of this narrative) approximating to its elevation above the sea, urged the theory of a railroad from the Atlantic to the Pacific, by that route. The Chief Engineer of the Canadian Pacific road, struck by the possible advantages of such a highway, chose the writer of these notes to make a reconnaissance of that pass, and ascertain, as nearly as possible, its actual elevation. With this object in view, I left Edmonton in the beginning of September, 1872, accompanied by Dr. Macoun, an eminent botanist, en route for the Pacific coast.

Let the reader take up a good map of British Columbia, and thereon draw a line from Edmonton to Fort Assiniboine on the Athabasca ; thence, let him make a series of zigzag courses to the southwestern extremity of Lesser Slave Lake, then north-westerly to the confluence of the Smoky River with the Great Peace ; from that point, in nearly a straight line, across the country lying north of that stream, to Dun vegan; next follow the Peace River through the Rocky Mountain Range toMcLeod's Lake, and thence to Fort St. James on Lake Stewart, and he will have traced the first part of a very interesting journey, — interesting not only for its novelty, but also on account of the varied and magnificent scenery through which it was made.

The Start for Peace River.

Having, as already remarked, bade adieu to our late comyagnons de voyage, and having seen them fairly under weigh for Jasper House, it now behoved me to make preparations for the Peace River journey, and as the season was already advanced no time was to be lost. A circumstance which lent an additional zest to our contemplated trip was the fact that we were in complete ignorance as to the proper means of procedure and the time necessary to accomplish the journey. Nobody at Edmonton could tell us aught regarding the Rocky Mountain Passes north of the Tete Jaune Cache. In vain did we seek for information as to our proposed journey. All the positive information we did obtain was that a Hudson Bay Company's boat annually descended the Peace River to the Rocky Mountain Portage, for the supply of leather required for the Indian trade in New Caledonia ; but that boat had already been down and had long since returned to the west side of the mountains, and our chances of getting through to McLeod's Lake before the winter set in were very slim indeed. In fact, everybody was too willing to impart what knowledge he possessed, but as that was generally of a negative and contradictory character, we derived but little satisfaction or advantage from it. We were told by one party that such and such a route was^not to be thought of; by another, that we might possibly make very slow and tedious progress on foot through the dense forests of the

Canada on the Pacific.

Peace River, but that it would be folly to think of taking horses ; and a third, and veritable Job's comforter, coolly affirmed that we would never be able to cross the " Grand Muskeg," which was described as infinitely worse than the famous dismal swamp of Virginia.

These conflicting and adverse statements, although rather disheartening, did not prevent my choice of some well-defined course, and I determined to strike across the country to Fort Assiniboine, and thence over the swampy and barren grounds intervening between it and the Lesser Slave Lake. But we had to bide our time. Two Hudson's Bay clerks, then at Edmonton, had received peremptory instructions from their superior officer at Fort Garry to immediately proceed to New Caledonia (a district of British Columbia) by the way of Peace River, and, as a matter of course, all the resources of Edmonton, in the way of horses, men and provisions, were laid under contribution in order to expedite their journey. This circumstance, coupled with the fact that Mr. Fleming had been supplied with the pick of men and horses for his trip to Jasper House, augured unfavourably for us, and added not a little to our anxiety. Notwithstanding those drawbacks, I set about making preparations for the journey as fast as it could be done under the circumstances ; but little assistance, however, could be expected from the Company until Messrs. Y. and K. had been disposed of. On the 2nd

The Start for Peace River.

of September those gentlemen's preparations beingcompleted, they took their departure, kindly promising to smooth the way for us by leaving advice of our expected advent at every post they should pass ; and, whilst bidding us farewell, adding that we should meet again only on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, as they would travel with customary Hudson's Bay celerity. The botanist, whose countenance during our affecting leave-taking of Messrs. Y. and K. had assumed a rueful and comically sad expression, especially upon their allusion to our keeping the rear all the way to Lake McLeod, remarked, after the last of the cavalcade had disappeared through the main gate of the fort, that " It was too bad to be left behind in this off-hand manner." " Never mind, my dear Mac," said I ; "we may not be so much behind them after all ; and as they intend proceeding by canoe from Fort Assiniboine to Lesser Slave Lake, we may steal a march on them, and possibly get ahead of them yet."

The fact that provisions would not be readily obtainable when once away from Edmonton, until we reached Fort McLeod or the Omenica mines, rendered it imperative to carry supplies in quantity sufficient for a journey of nine weeks' duration. I accordingly packed up 2301bs. of flour, 121bs. of tea, 241bs. of sugar, and sundries, besides loOlbs. of pemmican (equal quantities of finely pounded dried buffalo meat and grease) ; meat and tea we expected to find c

Canada on the Pacific.

at any of the solitary establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company which we might pass. Pack saddles and sundry horse trappings had to be made and fitted, men had to be chosen, and horses picked out from amongst the somewhat ill-conditioned animals left at the Company's horse-guard. In the meantime, Mr. Mac, who was to be my fellow traveller as far as Fort St. James, on Lake Stewart, whence he was to proceed to Quesnel and Victoria, busied himself in scouring the surrounding country in search of further botanical additions to his already bulky collection.

Our party, when ready, consisted of four persons, viz. : — the botanist, myself, and two hired men, one of them an English miner, named Robert Armstrong, recently arrived from, the Omenica diggings on the Peace River, and who desired to return thither, having evidently failed to appreciate the society and advantages of the Upper Saskatchewan ; the other, an English half-breed, by name Thomas, who turned out to be as lazy a rascal as ever munched pemmican. Of horses, we had six to pack and four to ride, making ten in all.

After many vexatious delays, Mr. Macoun, the two men, with nine horses and two carts (the latter I had decided to take as far as wheels could be made use of), left Edmonton on the 3rd of September, while I remained behind, intending to overtake them on the following day. My object in staying behind

How to Cook Pemmican.

was to complete some barometric observations and settle accounts with Mr. Hardisty, whose kindness and hospitality had been unvarying. On the 4th, after breakfast and7 saying " Good-bye" to the inmates of the Fort, I mounted my little nag, gained the high ground immediately behind the Fort, and taking a last look at the Saskatchewan, turned my horse's head towards Lake St. Albert, which I reached after a pleasant ride of nine miles. My first visit was to my old friend, Mr. Chastellain, who immediately saddled a horse, and expressed his intention of accompanying me for the first few miles towards Lake la Nonne. Before leaving, we paid a visit to his Lordship, Bishop Grandin, and the Oblat missionaries, who have a large establishment here. These gentlemen would not allow me to depart without partaking of some collation ; so we were detained until the forenoon was far advanced, and it was nearly eleven o'clock before we managed to escape from our kind friends. The day being fair, but cloudy, we rode along pleasantly for seven or eight miles, when Mr. Chastellain, after wishing all kinds of good luck to our expedition, turned his horse homewards, and I was left to pursue my way alone over the beautiful and undulating country.

At 1 p.m. I overtook our little train, which had stopped by the side of a small creek, and found the botanist and the two men busily and pleasantly employed preparing dinner. The preparation of this

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meal, and indeed of all our meals, which were unvarying in kind and quality, simply consisted in the pounding up with an axe of a couple of pounds of buffalo pemmican, which, after receiving an addition of water and a sprinkling of flour, was placed in a frying-pan, and heated. This mixture, together with tea and bread, was our daily food during the whole journey to McLeod's Lake, and, although very uninviting to a tyro, is the strongest food and the best for the traveller. One great advantage of pemmican is its portability. It can be compressed into very small bulk. A bag containing lOOlbs. net weight measures but three feet in length by about ten inches in width, and will serve four men over a month. Our horses were quietly feeding on the rich and nutritious grass which lined the banks of the creek Those animals were of all shades of colour, and no two were alike in size. They were of the hardy little breed peculiar to the Saskatchewan country, and, though not much to look at, were possessed of qualities of endurance hardly to be expected from animals of their appearance. The horses, like the half-breeds of the country, understood a jargon, half French, half Cree Indian, and answered to such names as Bichon, Rouge, Noir, Sacre* Diable, &c. I noticed with some concern, however, that one or two of them had a slight tendency to sore back, but Armstrong, the miner, had seen to them, and had, with great forethought, fitted relieving pads to the saddles.

Resumption of the Journey. 9

Dinner being despatched, we saddled up again and resumed our journey. From Lake St. Albert to this point the land had been gradually rising westward, and we were approaching the dividing ridge between the waters of the Saskatchewan and those of the Mackenzie River. The character of the country was also beginning to change. Before dinner, prairie had prevailed over wood, but now the clumps of aspen and poplar became larger, and occurred more frequently, and the trees themselves began to assume a greater size. A few spruce trees appeared occasionally, and we saw that we were soon to leave the prairie behind us, at least for a time. As we left our dinner camp, a few drops of rain began to fall, and the clouds, which since morning had been gradually accumulating, being now surcharged, a steady rain set in, which continued without intermission until late the following morning. We had no alternative, however, but to go on, and we halted only at six o'clock by a fine lake of fresh water, having accomplished a distance of about thirty-four miles from Edmonton. After considerable trouble and delay we lighted a roaring fire, and, having pitched our tent, we proceeded to make ourselves comfortable for the night.

September 5th. — Still raining this morning, and in consequence we remained in camp until 9.30 a.m., when, the weather showing signs of improvement, we packed up and moved on through the woods in

Canada on the Pacific.

the direction of Lake la Nonne. Travelling this forenoon was particularly disagreeable, the long grass and bushes being laden with rain, and at every step, notwithstanding the utmost care, we received a perfect shower-bath. As we advanced, the trail began to change considerably for the worse, the ground becoming hilly and broken, and windfalls blocking up the road at frequent intervals. Several times during this forenoon's march we had to exert our united strength to extricate the carts from the many quagmires which we could not avoid, and at 1 p.m., when we stopped for an hour to rest our horses and boil our tea kettle, we had only made six miles by the odometer.

After dinner we resumed our march, the road becoming much worse, and in some places impassable for the carts, which, at every few yards, kept sinking up to the hubs. Two miles of this abominable road took us out into higher and drier ground, where the trail improved very much, and we were enabled to make satisfactory progress. We were now on the Mackenzie River Watershed, the small creeks flowing north-westerly and into the Athabasca. The height of land we had passed a little before dinner.

We arrived at Lake la Nonne before sundown > and camped close to Messrs. Y. and K., the two Hudson Bay gentlemen, who had only just arrived. They had experienced a great deal of trouble in passing over the last ten miles of ground, as indeed we had

Lake la Nonne.

seen ; the numerous freshly chopped windfalls we had passed testifying to the immense amount of road clearing they and their men had done for the general good. They were a little wroth at the idea of having pioneered for our benefit, and half jokingly, half seriously expressed the wish that we should take the lead next morning. "Well, gentlemen," said the botanist, " we started with the understanding that you were to go ahead, and keep ahead, and I only hope now [that you will be men of your word, and do so still. Besides/' continued he, "I thought you were fast travellers." Our two Hudson Bay friends being good-natured at bottom, took the taunting of our botanist in good part, and invited us to join them at supper, which we did, not having the patience to wait for our own. After sundown we strolled along the creek and lake margin in search of ducks and geese, which are very numerous about here.

Lake la Nonne is of small extent, and empties itssurplus waters into the Pembina, the most southern of the prairie streams tributary to the Mackenzie River. It abounds with excellent white fish, and the surrounding country is thickly wooded. The soil is excellent, and from the general appearance of the country, not only here, but between this and Edmonton, we saw excellent opportunities for farming and stock raising.

The experiences of to-day not having impressed

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us very favourably with regard to wheeled vehicles, I determined to abandon the two carts and pack our horses. The other party volunteering to try how far a cart could be taken, one of those rude Red River contrivances was handed over to them, with a request to keep the odometer register. For the information of those who have never seen anything of the kind, it may be explained that the odometer, or trochiameter, as it is sometimes called, is an instrument attached to the wheel of a vehicle, by which the number of revolutions is registered — this number, being multiplied into the circumference of the wheel, gives the distance travelled. — By 9 p.m. the camp was quiet, every one being pretty well tired out after the exertions of the day.

September 6th. — The morning broke bright and clear, and having breakfasted, we proceeded to pack the six animals picked out for that purpose, and moved off towards the Pembina by 8 a.m. A walk of an hour and fifty minutes brought us to the ford, where we found quite a large encampment of two or three white men, and some dozen half-breeds and Indians. Messrs. Y. and K., who had started before us this morning, had already arrived, and introduced us to Mr. McGillivray, another Hudson's Bay clerk, then on his way to Fort Edmonton. He had left Lesser Slave Lake some eight days before, and had come by boat through the lake, down the Little Slave River, and then up the Athabasca to Fort

Fording the Pembina.

Assiniboine, whence, to this point, he had journeyed by land. He described the trail as bad, and strongly advised our going from Fort Assiniboine by water ; but, as I had already decided to proceed overland, he did the next best thing and secured to me the services of an English half-breed, named "William Calder, and a most excellent man he afterwards turned out to be.

After partaking of Mr. McGillivray's hospitality, and thanking him for his kindness in forwarding our views, we separated, and forded the Pembina which is not more than a hundred yards wide at this point. The water was not deep, only taking the horses up to their bellies ; but the bottom was of quicksand, and we needed to be cautious in picking our steps. We got over without accident, and a two hours' ride over a low and rolling country brought us to the Paddle River, on the bank of which our Hudson Bay friends decided to camp. At William's suggestion, however, we pushed on a mile further, and pitched our tent in the midst of a beautiful circular prairie, surrounded on all sides by thick woods. The next morning we were joined by* the other party, and falling into Indian file, we proceeded rapidly on our way to the Athabasca. The country we passed through to-day was pretty level, and covered with dense timber, among which poplar, spruce and birch of large size predominated. Some of the spruce trees were of great size, and severaL

Canada on the Pacific.

we measured had a diameter of three feet. Wild fruits of different kinds were very abundant, such as raspberries, the service berry, and wild gooseberry, and we occasionally dismounted to pick and eat them to our heart's content. The botanist was in his glory, and made large and valuable additions to his stock. In point of numbers, our combined party had now assumed quite formidable dimensions, there being nine horsemen and twenty orses. Each man carried a shooting iron of some kind, excepting the botanist, who had, instead, a dilapidated tin case slung across his shoulder, which at every movement of his horse made row enough to frighten away whatever game there was in the vicinity.

We halted at noon to rest for an hour, as the weather was close and sultry, and our horses required careful handling to enable them to perform the long and difficult journey to Lesser Slave Lake. At half-past one we pushed on again, and reached Deep Creek, an affluent of the Athabasca, where we camped for the night. The Hudson Bay party proceeded on, intending to reach Fort Assiniboine that evening, if possible.

The next morning being Sunday, we did not hurry in getting away from camp, as we were within four or five miles of the Athabasca, and did not intend going further than Fort Assiniboine that day. It was, on this account, nearly nine o'clock before we were fairly under weigh. A steady drizzling rain

Reach Fort Assiniboine.

was falling, and rendered travelling uncomfortable. In the course of two hours we reached the crossing place; but, owing to the late rain, the river had risen four feet, and we were compelled to follow up its banks for a mile or so, to where lay a large boat of the Company's, in which we crossed to the Fort, after driving our horses on to an island, whence they could easily be brought over during the afternoon, At two o'clock we landed at Fort Assiniboine.

Chapter II Assiniboine To Lesser Slave Lake

Description of the Fort — A lazy Half-breed — The Clearwater — Chain of Swamps — Pack train Travelling — Rich Pasturage — Lesser Slave Lake — Skirting the Lake — The Traverse — Effective Shooting — Roman Catholic Missions in the North- West — Climate.

HE valley of the Athabasca at Fort Assiniboine q£=). is large, and fully equal to that of the Saskatchewanat Edmonton. The river is larger and deeper than that stream, and 250 yards wide, with a very strong current. The so-called " Fort " is a mere collection of ruinous old log buildings, and is now used as a sort of half-way house between the two important posts of Lesser Slave Lake and Edmonton. We found one solitary clerk, who, with two or three Indians, were the only inhabitants of the place. Here we had intended to make some additions to our scanty stock of provisions ; but the resources of the place being at the last ebb, nothing could be had but a few pounds of excellent butter, with which Mr. Calder, the resident clerk, kindly furnished us.

Fort Assiniboine.

By odometer measurement, this place is about ninety miles from Edmonton, and two hundred and sixty miles from Jasper House, which is upon the same stream, but within the first range of the Rocky Mountains. Fort Assiniboine was, doubtless, in the good old days of the monopoly, a snug enough little spot ; but it has been allowed to fall into decay. It is very nicely situated upon a fine level terrace about twenty-seven feet above the river. In the rear, the land rises to a considerable height, and is everywhere covered with thick forest ; but the aspect was bleak and desolate in the extreme, and we felt glad that our stay here was to be of the shortest. In the course of the afternoon we made a tour of inspection, accompanied by Mr. Calder, who was heartily sick of the place, and intended leaving at the first opportunity.

Here we got rid of Thomas, the half-breed, and, paying him what was due, sent him back to Edmonton. He was a good-for-nothing fellow, and no loss to the party. William, who replaced him, undertook to pilot us across the barren grounds lying between this place and the Lesser Slave Lake. Accordingly, having overhauled our outfit, we prepared, to start next morning.

September 9 th. — Beautiful weather, and at 9 a.m. we started. Messrs. Y. and K. had left the day before by canoe, and expected to reach Lesser Slave Post in six days. However, the familiar French B