By the equator's snowy peak : a record of medical missionary work and travel in British East Africa

Front matter

Crawford, E. May.

By the equator ' s snowy peak

BY THE EQUATOR'S SNOWY PEAK

Preface

O all who have at heart the evangelizing of

A African tribes this book will be of more than ordinary interest. It describes the widening influence of the British Empire in large tracts of the East Africa Protectorate which have been, until recent years, closed to all but intrepid explorers. It also portrays vividly, and with grace and skill, the progress of medical missionary effort, from the very difficult beginnings in the face of hostile superstitions, to the days when the authoress and her husband were overwhelmed by the demands made upon each day of their lives by the crowds of eager patients, whose confidence they had won by their devotion and manifested kindness, as also by God's blessing resting on the doctor's successful treatment of the sick, and of those who had need of surgical aid.

The grand highlands of Kenia Province have now established in their hills and vales several mission stations and districts of the Church Missionary Society. Dr. Krapf, long years ago, penetrated Ukamba almost as far as the Tana River, and gazed on the mountain of whiteness, the snow-capped Kirinyaga, Mount Kenia. That splendid missionary and explorer had to retrace

2 *Krapf's Noble Attempts'

his steps to the coast, yet he had a conviction that a coming generation would witness the journeys of white missionaries in that region which privations, sickness and death in his caravan had prevented him from entering. At the first possible moment, the C.M.S., faithful to Krapf and his heart's projects, sent its pioneers to take their lives in their hands and to evangelize Kenia and all the wild country stretching from the River Tana to the extreme north-eastern slopes of Mount Kenia. The Society, in its discharge of its responsibility to give full effect to Krapf's noble attempts to plant the standard of the Gospel in the highlands which are crowned with the glorious masses of Kenia and Aberdare, gave Mr. (now the Rev.) A. W. McGregor the privilege of first commencing missionary operations in Kenia, after a year or two of residence in Kikuyu.

Some of the results which have followed Dr. and Mrs. Crawford's brave undertaking may be gathered from the following words of an officer who holds high rank in the Protectorate : —

Fort Nyeri,

Kenia Province,

Dear Bishop, — It was some years ago that our valued friends. Dr. and Mrs. Crawford, came into this province and established a station in the Fort Hall district, where in the midst of privations and considerable hardships they carried on a work which has earned the gratitude and admiration of every officer in the Province.

The Commissioner's Testimony 3

The first occasion on which I saw Dr. and Mrs. Crawford in harness was when I was passing their station en route to a camp at Weithaga. The doctor was attending a crowd of natives, — men, women and children, — in all stages of sickness. There must have been at least two hundred at the time waiting to be treated. The number I believe was not exceptional. After spending some time at his dispensary and hospital, I visited the school, which was under the care of Mrs. Crawford. I was struck with the discipline wliich prevailed and the intelligence of the children, which could only have been brought to light by the devotion and the extraordinary patience of the teacher. I only mention this as an example of the good work done by this devoted couple.

After establishing a station in the Fort Hall district and putting it in excellent working order. Dr. and Mrs. Crawford were transferred to the Embu district, there to continue their good work. Their reputations had gone before them, and so they received a hearty welcome from the natives of the Embu district, though these people had only recently been brought under administration and were of a very primitive nature. The confidence of the natives was soon gained, and people from all parts of the district flocked to Dr. Crawford for treatment. Not only did he give liis valuable services to the people, but he unhesitatingly placed them at the disposal of the Government, and many serious cases were sent to him for treatment.

The result of their work is very apparent in the number of natives of all ages who now attend the church and school for instruction, and in the good behaviour of the natives living within a radius of some miles from their station. Dr. and Mrs. Crawford have gained the confidence, affection and respect of every official and native with whom they have come in contact.

Yours sincerely,

Provincial Commissioner, Kenia Province, British East A frica.

To the Right Reverend

the Bishop of Mombasa, D,D.

4 Realities of Missionary Enterprise

Readers will not fail to comprehend what the difficult and dangerous journeys have meant to a refined white woman ; they will be delightfully interested in the narratives of the customs and habits of the tribes ; they will be thrilled by the recitals of the doctor's experiences, in and out of hospital ; they will gaze with deep pleasure on the many pictures painted in words by the authoress depicting village life and human need of sympathy and help ; but more than all they will behold the workings of the Kingdom of God in purely heathen people. Very simply Mrs. Crawford lays bare the spiritual realities of missionary enterprise. Along with Christian kindness, medical skill, ceaseless endeavour to mitigate suffering, patient teaching and the exhibition of a Christian home, there are results visible which are not of earth, and which come neither from healing in the wards nor from Christian education in the school. There are effects which plainly are only wrought by God, effects which spring from the gift of eternal life. Young men are steadfastly resisting what they now know to be evil, though parent, friend and tribe bitterly persecute them. By what power ? Men and Avomen are publicly being sealed as God's children and servants, and are entering into union and fellowship with Christ in God.

Krapf looked long and wistfully at Kenia's gigantic peak and dazzling snows, and then, overcome by hardships, suffering and bodily

♦spirit, Soul and Body* 5 weakness, sorrowfully retreated from the Tana River and never made known the good news of the Saviour of the world to the Akikuyu. But between the place where he stood near the river and the forests of Kenia there are, on a long ridge, the C.M.S. medical mission house and hospital near Embu Fort, from which goes forth the healing for spirit, soul and body of heathen Africans by God's blessing ; while many miles away is the rushing stream at Kahuhia, in a pool of which the first Christians, the firstfruits of the medical mission there, were baptized some years ago.

W. G. MOMBASA.

Foreword

I AM glad indeed to have the privilege of introducing to the Christian public my old and dear friend, Mrs. Crawford. It is now nearly a quarter of a century since a young lady called on me at my old office in the Church Missionary House, and, introducing herself as Miss E. May Grimes, informed me that she had been unable to resist the call that had come to her after a missionary meeting at Richmond at which I was a speaker, and that she had come to offer herself to the Society. I passed her on to the Clerical Secretaries, and in due course she was accepted for training and directed to go to The illows at Stoke Newington, where the authorities of Mildmay prepared ladies for the mission field. Certain difficulties which then arose were overcome in so unexpected and striking a way that one could only recognize the hand of the Lord in the matter. Miss Grimes went happily through her training course, and was appointed by the Committee to the Japan Mission ; but, to her and my dismay, the Medical Board declined to sanction her going out. For, I think, two years she worked at the China Inland Mission Training Home, and this naturally drew out her special sympathy for China. To that great land she would gladly have gone, but again health considerations barred the way. Then came an opening in the less trying climate of South Africa, and she joined the South Africa General Mission. I was at that time on my travels in Australia and India, but when I reached England on a certain Thursday in April, 1893, I found

Foreword

I was just in time to bid her God-speed, which I did at Waterloo Station on the Saturday immediately following, as she left on her new mission.

She left behind her some beautiful hymns and poems, which have made her name widely known, particularly ' A Little Sanctuary ' and ' The Master comes and calls for thee ' ; and her letters from Pondoland during the next few years were greatly appreciated by a large circle of friends.

Meanwhile the Church in Canada was preparing to supply its own missionaries to the C.M.S. fields of labour, and among those who were so commissioned was Dr. T. W. W, Crawford. He was an admirer of Miss Grimes's poetry, and this led the way, when they met in England, to his approaching her with a view to her joining him in the highest earthly union and in the work to which he was called. He was appointed to East Africa ; to their great joy the Medical Board, encouraged by her lengthened experience already in the Dark Continent, gave their consent to her going ; and Dr. and Mrs. Crawford proceeded to the field so graphically described in the following pages.

So the young candidate of 1889 for foreign service found her way at last in the gracious providence of God to the Society which had first welcomed her. Truly His ' ways ' are ' past finding out.'

I do not ask to see The distant scene; one step enough for me.

The author of this book, whose personal story I have thus sketched, has to some extent justified the original verdict of the doctors by her frequent bodily sufferings. But Mrs. Crawford, in much ill-health and amid many privations and perils, has done a noble work, and set us all a bright example of faithfulness and devotion. I commend the book with all my heart.

EUGENE STOCK.

PART I Weithaga

CHAP. PAGE

I. Through the Bamboo Forest . .13

II. In the Heart of Kikuyu . . .26

III. A Study in ' Ebony ' . . .36

IV. Where Ancient Cults prevail . , 50 V. The Medicine Man . . . .59

PART II Kahuhia

VI. Across the Athi Plains . . .71

VII. Opening of the Kenia Medical Mission . 77

IX. On Safari . . . , .97

X. The last Year at Kahuhia . . .107

PART III Embu

XI. Beyond the Tana River . . .117 XII. Amongst the Embus .... 125

XIII. With the Savage Chukas . . .137

XIV. Out of the Javi^s of Death . .145 XV. Witnessing to Tribes Beyond . .156

XVI. Firstfruits of Harvest . . .168

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

View of Mt. Kenia, as seen kuom the Embu Mission House .... Frojitispiece

FACING PAGE

Map of East Africa . . . .14

The Author in her Safari Chair . .17

A Kenia Waterfall . . . .21

A Diminutive Kikuyu Nurse — Three Kikuyu

Girls, showing Ear Ornaments . . 22

A Masai Warrior . . . .28

A Kikuyu Chief and his Sixteen Wives . 30

A Kikuyu Homestead . . . .33

A Kikuyu Woman, with Load of Firewood . 34

A Kikuyu Woman . . . . .38

A Native Village — Kikuyu Boys in Ceremonial

A Masai Warrior, with Jam Pot Ear Ornament 46

A Kikuyu Warrior, with Head-dress of Ostrich

Feathers . . . . .48

Warriors in full War Attire . . .50

A Kikuyu Medicine Man — Medicine Man performing Ceremony of Purification . . 59

Chief Karuri's Village — Kahuhia School — Dr.

Crawford and Patients, Kahuhia . . 80

List of Illustrations

FACING PACE

Pupil Teachers at Kahuhia School . . 84

Camp in Karuri's Village — Medical Itineration : Service in Camp — Paramount Chiefs in the Cis-Tana Country . . . .101

Warriors of Embuland . . . .125

The Belfry, Embu Medical Mission — Medical

Assistants and Pupil Teachers, Embu . 128

An Embu Warrior . . . . .130

The 1st Embu Company of the Boys' Brigade —

Embu Medical Mission School . .135

Some Chuka Boys ..... 140

Two Embere Chiefs — Chief Kabuthi — Hospital

Compound, Embu Medical Mission . .148

Medical Assistants treating Out-Patients, Embu — The Dispensary and Operating Room, Embu — Embu Medical Mission Schoolboys — Government Bridge over the Tana River . .168

PART I Weithaga Look out upon the field, consider well

The gloomy darkness brooding o'er the land

Where Satan's seat is set. Ah I who can tell The sin and misery on every hand ?

Consider well the field — the bondage sore Of captive souls within the tyrant's power ;

Groaning for liberty yet more and more. Groping for Ught, but lo ! — a darker hour !

Consider well the field — the awful need

Of those who have not heard that Jesus died,

And face the solemn question : ' Why, indeed. To millions is the lamp of life denied ? '

BY THE EQUATOR'S SNOWY PEAK

CHAPTER I Through the Bamboo Forest

OEPTEMBER 21, 1904, found Dr. Crawford wJJ and myself travelling up towards the highlands of British East Africa by the Uganda Railway. As agents of the Missionary Society of the Church of England in Canada, working in connexion with the Church Missionary Society, we had been designated to labour amongst the almost untouched Kikuyu tribe, where, in the heart of Kenia Province, Mr. A. W. McGregor had been living in great isolation for over a year. Such a railway journey is full of unique interest. As the higher altitudes are reached, the traveller is kept on the alert watching the herds of wild animals grazing on the plains. Zebras, hartebeestes and other smaller varieties of antelopes, giraffes and ostriches may all be seen, and occasionally even a rhinoceros or a lion. As the train steamed slowly on its way through the wilds, the

14 Journeying to the Highlands old caravan road, which crosses and recrosses the line again and again, was pointed out to us, and we thought of all the missionary heroes who had tramped along that weary track beneath the burning tropical sun. Especially we remembered those who had never returned, those who had laid down their lives in the attempt to plant the standard of the Cross in Uganda.

The journey from the coast to Victoria Nyanza which used to cover several months is now accomplished in a little over two days and nights. We ourselves left the rail at Kijabi, a point rather less than two-thirds of the entire distance to the Lake. Here, at the headquarters of the Africa Inland Mission, Mr. McGregor had arranged to meet us. Mr. Hurlburt, the Director of the A.I.M., was on the platform, waiting to welcome us as we alighted from the train. He had most kindly brought his mule to carry me, as the house is about three miles from the station. We wound our way in and out up a steep path cut through the jungle until we reached the mission station. It stands in a clearing of a great forest at an altitude of 7,500 feet, overlooking the Kidong valley, and commands a magnificent view. Eight hundred feet below lies the plain, now traversed by the ' iron horse,' where big game still abounds ; and away beyond, the volcano ' Longonot,' now extinct, stands out in bold relief with its black-looking crater.

While awaiting the arrival of our future fellow-

EAST AFRICA

3 Juhedani,

* JEcnia .,

5 Tanaland, ,.

T StyidU

Ugog

KissaJar

Ra3 Kucu tkcuv

Stations underlined.

A Terrible Pathway worker we took a trip with Mr. and Mrs. Hurlburt to Lake Naivasha. The warhke Masai with their gleaming spears and decorated shields, herding their cattle in the rich pasture, came about us and interested us greatly. Hippopotami are numerous in the lake and may often be seen roaming on the shore.

Nothing could exceed the kindness of our American friends, and it was arranged that I should remain with them at Kijabi for three or four weeks, while my husband went on with Mr. McGregor to prepare for my reception at the new C.M.S. station, Weithaga, in Kenia Province. A caravan journey of about sixty miles lay before them, over hills and mountains, and through the dense bamboo forest which covers the slopes of Mt. Kinangop. We had heard much of the difficulties and dangers of this route, and Mr. McGregor himself had not found it easy to reach Kijabi. His verdict was that it would be impossible to take a lady through. When at last a messenger arrived with a letter from Dr. Crawford this opinion was confirmed, as he described the path through the forest as a terrible one. Mr. Hurlburt had most kindly lent him his mule for twenty miles or so of the way, and this had been a great help the first day, at the close of which they encamped on the border of the forest. The Doctor wrote from Mr. McGregor's station, which they had reached in safety, though he was exceedingly footsore and weary. He] said that as he feared the rains might be beginning i6 Discussing the Route

very soon, he must start to fetch me in a week's time, and that he would take me another route, not through the bamboo forest, but across the Athi plains. Now although this was said to be an easier road, yet it was very much longer. Moreover some of the widest rivers had not yet been bridged, but had to be crossed on logs, which not infrequently were washed away in the rainy season. Some friends who were acquainted with this route declared that it was a dreadful journey, and that the heat was also very great on the Athi plains. In addition to this I was told that it was ' a great lion country,' and only a few weeks before a trader on his way to see Mr. McGregor had fallen a victim to one of these terrible beasts, which entered his tent one night and carried him off.

An intense desire to save my husband the long, weary trudge back on my account took possession of me, and as both routes seemed to present an equal number of difficulties there appeared to be little to choose between them. It will, therefore, be readily understood that when my kind host informed me that he had himself decided to take a safari (caravan journey) through the bamboo forest in order to see the chief Karuri on business, I jumped at the idea of such an escort, and felt that somehow or other the seemingly impossible would be made possible in answer to prayer. Mr. Hurlburt himself proposed that I should accompany him and the two other missionaries of the

Setting out on * Safari *

A.I.M. who were going with him. They ' guaranteed ' they would get me through somehow, and their courage was inspiring !

Two men who were tradei'S and hunters, who knew every bit of the country for many miles around, were consulted, and all the difficulties of the way were fully discussed. They said that there were some parts so steep that it might be possible for me to surmount them only by hanging on to the neck of a native ! There were also some very awkward places where mountain torrents had to be crossed, but altogether they were inclined to take a hopeful view of the proposition. Mr. Hurlburt wished to set out early next morning, so preparations had to be hastily made. Mr. Downing most kindly fixed my deck chair to two bamboo poles, and raw natives were engaged to carry our tents and luggage. About 7.30 a.m. on Oct. 4, 1904, the cavalcade might have been seen winding its way down through the jungle, and myself borne along in my chair by four almost naked savages, with four others in attendance as an extra team, the three American missionaries never far from my side, watching over me with the greatest thoughtfulness. Then came a long, single file of dusky porters, each with a load of sixty pounds on his back, suspended by a leather strap from his head. To swell the caravan were a number of mission boys, all full of excitement over the idea of a safari.

We made our way down to the railway, and 3 i8 An Interminable Tramp proceeded along the line for several miles, then branched off and began climbing a tremendously steep hill, where my chair had to be dragged through dense undergrowth, while at the same time we were impeded by overhanging branches of trees. We emerged at length upon the summit, and the panting porters threw themselves down upon the grass to recover their breath.

Nearly the whole of the remainder of that day was spent in traversing an enormous plateau with Mt. Kinangop looming dark before us in the distance. Elephant tracks were to be seen at intervals along the road, and we wondered whether we should see any of those formidable creatures, or whether a rhinoceros or buffalo would cross our path. But no, the caravan was too large and noisy for them to venture near, although we saw herds of wild animals in the distance, and zebras and ostriches abounded.

What an interminable tramp it seemed as we pressed on beneath the burning sun, longing in vain for the cool shade of trees, or the refreshing sound of running water ! At noon a halt was called, and perching ourselves on some rocks we made a hasty repast, the menu consisting of potatoes baked on a camp fire, and tea without milk. Towards the close of the day we neared the bamboo forest, and there was Kinangop right overhead waiting to be scaled ! The weary plain was left behind, trees became numerous and the whole landscape was very lovely in the soft evening

Struggling through Difficulties 19 light. The swinging of the chair had produced

sensations not far removed from mal do mer, and so it was an unspeakable reUef, when at last the tents were pitched, to be able to turn in to my little stretcher bed.

The crackling of camp fires in the early dawn warned me that the caravan was astir, and, refreshed by a good night's rest, I quickly joined my kind friends for a picnic breakfast of boiled rice, and shortly afterwards we were on the march again. The path now became very overgrown, but brushing aside the tangling branches, we pushed cheerily on into the forest enjoying the keen morning air. Only one European lady (as far as we could ascertain) had ever been through the bamboo forest before. This was the wife of a Government official from Fort Hall. It is in parts very swampy, and the natives who carried me were frequently struggling in deep mud, and it would require all the additional porters to steady my chair and guard it from accident. At times, too, it had to be hauled up almost inaccessible places, and at others to be dragged through an almost impenetrable wall of bamboo. Yet through all the difficulties my poor bearers pressed on with marvellous patience and perseverance. And my missionary friends, though they fell again and again in the muddy swamps, and clambered panting up slippery and precipitate paths, were always brave and cheerful, and their courage was infectious.

Over Mt. Kinangop

It was worth a great deal to see that marvellous forest, with the delicate tracery of the bamboo foliage, the trailing vines, the lovely begonias and the wealth of ferns and staghorn moss. At one point an elephant had just broken through, tossing some great bamboos across the path, and leaving his giant footprints deeply embedded in the soil. Buffaloes are numerous in the forest glades, and leopards and other beasts of prey lurk in its deep recesses ; while in the lower altitudes of the mountain, where many varieties of beautiful trees cover the slopes with perpetual green, myriads of long-haired (Colybus) monkeys sport themselves amongst the lofty branches.

Towards the middle of the day we reached the neck of the mountain just below the rocky peaks, an altitude of about 11,000 feet. I had never been so high up in my life before ! The view was simply grand ! But we were not through the forest yet. Very soon we were enclosed in thick undergrowth again, and towering bamboos shut us in on every side. We now began the descent, which was in places exceedingly steep. Drenching rain retarded our progress by rendering the pathway fearfully slippery. Sometimes there was a mountain torrent to cross and the chair needed the most careful handling. Down, down we came, the porters warily picking their footsteps, until in the afternoon we emerged from the forest and began threading our way up and down amongst the foothills of Mt. Kinangop. It was about

A Kenia VV'aterfall

In a Predicament !

4.30 p.m. when the tents were pitched for the night, and oh, how welcome was the rest after the strenuous travel of the day ! Many of the natives came round us, all willing to make friends, and selling us milk, sweet potatoes, yams and bananas.

On the following morning the encampment was astir very early, and by 6.30 we had had breakfast (boiled rice again !) and struck our tents ready for the last day's march. We Avere enshrouded in a thick mist which gradually developed into heavy rain. Yet in spite of this drawback, our hearts were full of praise to our loving Father Who had brought us thus far safely on our way. A series of awkward places now confronted us, and to intensify the predicament Ave were all drenched to the skin 1 The rain poured persistently down the back of my chair so that I Avas soon sitting in a pool of water ! At the time I think we scarcely noticed these little draAvbacks, so absorbed were Ave in overcoming the difficulties of the road.

The path Avended its way first of all down a hill that was almost vertical. How I ever reached the bottom in safety was a matter of marvel ! A magnificent Avaterfall broke upon our gaze, and just above it the Maragua River had to be crossed. Great shelving boulders formed the bank. A more impossible place to carry a lady in a chair could scarcely be found ! Yet, being but a poor climber, I could not trust myself on foot ; and so it transpired that I was borne down over the rocks

22 Grossing a Slippery Log and across the river in a manner that was truly incredible. Two of the A.I.M. boys proved as watchful over me as were the missionaries themselves, and one could dare a great deal with such an escort. At the bottom of the next two hills, which were frightfully steep, were streams bridged only by a single plank, and indeed the word ' plank ' is altogether too civilized a term to use, as in each case it was simply the trunk of a tree, roughly hewn in half, and rendered very slippery by mud and rain. The second of these was of a great length, and some eighteen feet beneath it was a rushing stream with sharp stones jutting out of its rocky bed. It was to my mind the most dangerous place of the whole journey, I dared not venture across such a narrow and slippery bridge on foot, and, as it must needs be traversed, I committed myself to God, and remained in my chair. Had a single porter slipped we must have been hurled into the river, the balance was so extremely critical ; but God mercifully kept their feet and brought us in safety to the other side. Meeting one of the A.I.M. missionaries a few months ago he told me that he still held his breath to think of me being carried across that log bridge !

From eleven to one o'clock we halted, and the boys cooked a brace of partridges for our dinner which had fallen to Mr. Staffaucher's gim. Natives crowded around, staring at me open-mouthed, especially the women and children, who probably had never seen a white woman before. At first

A Diminutive Kikuyu Nurse Three Kikuyu Girls, showing Ear Ornaments

Arrival at Weithaga they ran away in fear, and were with difiiculty persuaded to return. However, an old man came and held my hand to show them that I was quite harmless, whereupon they gradually crept nearer, and were ultimately prevailed upon to come and greet me. Then they wanted to touch my clothes, and hair and face, and began to chatter to me in a language which, of course, I could not understand.

A distant hill was now pointed out as Mr. McGregor's station, and as the mist and rain cleared off and the sun shone out we made much better progress. Up and down Ave went over ridges and valleys until we reached the foot of the Weithaga hill, and as all our hearts overflowed with thankfulness I suggested we should sing the Doxology. Out ran Mr. McGregor, all astonishment, followed a little later by my husband who, on seeing such an imposing caravan approaching, had first rushed to put on a collar, thinking it must betoken a visit from the Provincial Commissioner ! But when he discovered the facts of the case he came tearing down the hill with a face aglow with surprise and delight !