Mexico, the wonderland of the South

Front matter

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Preface

MExtco is preéminently a land of picturesqueness, of romance, and of wonderfully strange contrasts. A period of twenty-five years has witnessed a general progress there which might easily have occupied centuries. But this very rapidity of evolution has worked against a completeness of development and has left fragments of the ancient order that give to the country, in patches, the fascinating interest of olden days. The automobile, electric traction, electric ight, and the promoter have come; the Indian with his burro, the cargador with his burden, and the old-fashioned village priest have remained. Thus it is that in Mexico the old and the new are everywhere to be seen side by side.

It is this strange mixture of the ancient and modern that produces such queer phases of life as exist in Mexico to-day. And it can be truly said, moreover, that no country of Latin America is so full of interest as the land of the Aztecs. With a wonderful past and an equally wonderful present, peopled by an ancient race with strange customs and traditions, it is also a land of magnificent scenery, of superb climates, and amazing natural resources.

In the following pages will be found a concise account of my wanderings in Mexico, a description of the Mexican capital and other old cities, of the great haciendas, of the gold and silver mines, of some quaint health resorts, and of my experiences in mountain climbing, tarpon fishing, and ranching. v vil PREFACE

While dealing with all these subjects I have exerted every effort to make my book a book of human interest. I have tried, in short, to give an accurate pen-picture of Mexico as I saw this wonderful country in journeying from place to place,—the everyday life of the people, the sights and scenes that I witnessed, and the various incidents which marked my travel.

During my stay in the Republic I had ample opportunities to observe, in active process, the Americanizing of Mexico, which is destined to have such a far-reaching effect on the country’s future. It was also my good fortune to be brought into sympathetic touch with Mexican affairs, and to learn much concerning the progress of the people, the policies of President Porfirio Diaz, the conditions of labor and the church, and the great agricultural and mining resources of the land.

Such, in brief, is a summary of this book, the aim of which is to give a pen-picture fresh, accurate, and inclusive of Mexico to-day.

CHAPTER

CONTENTS .

. Mexico Past anp Present . CHURCHES AND MIRACLES

. Tse Lire or THE PEOPLE

. THE Foreign INVASION 5 . Tae Waite Man’s BuRDEN-BEARER . . Tue MacuIneryY oF GOVERNMENT . A Mexican PaRrapIsEe

. Tue Ciry or THE ANGELS

. A Mexican CARLSBAD .

. Luxurious Lire at A Gotp MINE . Curistmas aT Los Reyes

. Preuistoric Mrxico

. Lire In AN O_p Mexican Town

. IN THE CRATER OF POPOCATEPETL . GUADALAJARA THE WONDERFUL

. “THe Sitrver City”

. Tue Tirian at TZINTZUNTZAN

. Tue Istamus or TEHUANTEPEC

. Tarpon FisHine at TAmMPIco

. In NortHERN MExIco .

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Chapter I Mexico, Past And Present

JUST as in order to understand modern Mexico one must know something of her past, so in order to fully appreciate Mexico’s fascinating history, which has been so graphically related in the pages of Prescott, one must stand upon the historical ground where the drama of the country was unfolded. Gazing on the spot where once stood the great temple of the Mexican gods and the palace of Montezuma, upon the identical place where the Spaniards were butchered by the Aztecs during the ‘‘sorrowful night” of their flight from the city, upon the tree beneath which Cortés wept over this defeat, the stranger cannot help but feel emotion, however lethargic his interest may previously have been. Fully as thrilling are the events which followed the War of Independence in 1811, when Spanish rule came to an end in Mexico, the series of revolutions which followed, and the incidental wars of invasion; for twice during the past century the Mexican capital has been occupied by foreign armies and its streets have resounded, in turn, to the strains of Yankee Doodle and the Marscillaise. The present is the child of the past, and the influence of all these strange events may be traced in greater or lesser measure in the development of the Mexican people to-day. es

Mexico’s earliest history is unfortunately shrouded in profound mystery. The native records, which might have thrown some light upon it, were ruthlessly destroyed at the

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FA time of the Spanish conquest, when ignorance and bigotry were active in stamping out all traces of native culture.

After the conquest, several Spanish chroniclers collected the oral traditions of the conquered people, while certain native writers who had learned Spanish wrote what purported to be a history of their country. This great mass of material, which has been so fascinatingly condensed and presented by Prescott in his “Conquest of Mexico,” is a curious blending of fact and fiction. On one point, however, all narrations agree, namely, that Mexico is a country of great antiquity and has been peopled by a succession of races. Of these early inhabitants almost nothing is known. ~ Scattered all over Mexico are the ruins of cities, temples and palaces built in remote periods, and which were probably in much the same condition ages before the Spaniards came. The mystery which surrounds their prehistoric builders is deepened by the strange relics of the past which are being constantly unearthed. Jade beads which undoubtedly came from China are found with stone idols and statues of marked Egyptian appearance; while intermixed with pyramids which recall those of early Egypt are ruins of temples and palaces, the architecture of which bears a singular resemblance to that of Japan. Among the Indian races of Mexico to-day certain customs exist which seem to have had their origin in the Far East; and there is much resemblance between the religion of the early inhabitants and that of China and India. These facts have led many historians to believe that some connection was actually established between ancient Mexico and the Orient.

According to native traditions, the whole of Mexico was originally known as Anahuac, and was inhabited by a succession of highly cultured races who built the vast temples and palaces, the ruins of which still exist. The most advanced of these were the Toltecs, who were said to have come from some unknown land. Prescott represents them as having arrived in Anahuac in the seventh century; other authorities believe that they entered the country fully five thousand years earlier. The Toltecs are said to have built a wonderful city called Tula, and an attempt has been made to identify this prehistoric city with a little village of adobe huts and magnificent ruins not far from the capital. This is but one of many instances in which Toltec names of towns and districts still survive.

It was at Tula, according to ancient legends, that Quetzalcoatl, a mysterious messiah, known as the Fair God, made his appearance. He was a white man with a long, flowing beard who taught the Toltecs the arts of civilization, agriculture and war, then sailed away to the west to return to his own country. After his departure he was deified by the Toltecs, who represented him in their sculptures as a winged serpent. He had promised to return after many years, and this pledge was handed down from generation to generation.

All traditions agree that the Toltecs were a people of wonderful culture; that they were peaceful and temperate, had reached a high moral plane, and had a form of religion which was largely nature-worship. Fruit and flowers were offered in their temples, which were never stained with human blood as in later Aztec times. Castes existed among them, and as in the case of some races of the Far East, they had two written languages, one of which was used when addressing superiors, the other for inferiors. Their social classes were divided into priests, warriors, merchants and tillers of the soil. They also had an elaborate feudal system.

The empire of the Toltecs was eventually overthrown by an invasion of fierce tribes who swept down through Mexico from the north, followed in turn by races of higher civilization, perhaps akin to the Toltecs, whose language they ap- _ pear to have spoken. The Toltecs gradually relinquished possession of the country and retired southwards, while the - © invaders apparently acquired some of the culture of the people whom they had displaced. Some of them, notably the Tezcucans, eventually made great progress in the arts of civilization. Some of these tribes developed a system of picture-writing resembling somewhat that of the North American Indians.’

1 An interesting specimen of these picture-writings, which is preserved in Mexico, records how the ancestors of the Tarascan Indians inhabiting the State of Michoacan, came down into Anahuac from the far north. A reproduction of this ancient record is given on the opposite page.

According to tradition, the Tarascans were one of nine tribes who wandered down to Mexico, having emerged from seven caves in the west, and passing a narrow arm of the sea on wooden rafts or hurdles made of canoes fastened together. They marched together from this place, and after many days halted at a large tree, in the trunk of which an altar was erected to the god Huitzilolvehtli. While encamped there, the tree suddenly split in the middle. Taking this as a bad omen, the heads of the tribes consulted the god, who advised them to take separate roads, which was done, some of the tribes going in one direction and others in another. The Tarascans eventually took possession of the country around Lake Patzcuaro.

These scenes are all depicted in the record. The square at the upper right-hand corner shows the tribes emerging from the caves, led by their nine high priests; and intersecting the squares are lines showing the road they took. Each square depicts some incident in their long wanderings, a special feature being made of their encampment at the tree of Huitzilolvehtli. Over the squares are inscriptions in the Tarascan and Mexican languages, supposed to have been added by native writers some years after the Spanish conquest. Some of the words have been translated; the meaning of others is unknown. Two colors are used in the drawing — black and red. The latter is used only for the line which indicates the road followed and for the species of shirt or jacket worn by the individuals who appear to be chiefs or priests.

Speaking of these picture-writings, Prescott says: “A Mexican manuscript looks usually like a collection of pictures, each ope form-

Chief among the invading tribes were the Aztecs, who are supposed to have come from northern California and made their way southward. According to Aztec legends, they were told by an oracle that they should build a great city on a site that would be indicated by an eagle perched on the stem of a cactus or prickly pear with a serpent in his talons. In 1325, so tradition says, they arrived in the Valley of Mexico, where the capital now stands, led by their high priest, Tenoch, a sort of Aztec Moses, whose name meant “the stone cactus.” As they approached the lake, the site of the present city, they beheld a golden eagle standing on a prickly pear, holding in his talons a serpent, as had been predicted. In obedience to the sign, the Aztecs settled at the lake, built their temple and founded a great city, which they called Tenochtitlan, after ing the subject of a separate study. The Aztecs had various emblems for expressing such things as from their nature could not be directly represented by the painter. A ‘tongue,’ for example, denoted speaking; a ‘footprint,’ travelling; ‘man on the ground,’ an earthquake. These symbols were often very arbitrary, varying with the caprice of the writer; and it required a nice discrimination to interpret them, as a slight change in the form or position of the figure intimated a very different meaning. They also employed phonetic signs, though these were chiefly confined to the names of persons and places. Lastly, the pictures were colored in gaudy contrasts, so as to produce the most vivid impression, for even colors speak in the Aztec hieroglyphics.

“Clumsy as it was, however, the Aztec picture-writing enabled the people to digest a complete system of chronology and to specify with accuracy the dates of the most important events in their history. Serving as a sort of stenography or collection of notes, these writings were used in the colleges of the priests, where the youth were instructed in astronomy, history, mythology, etc. This eombination of the written and oral comprehended what may_be called the literature of the Aztecs.

“The manuscripts were made of different materials, cotton cloth or skins nicely prepared; a composition of silk and gum; but for the most part a kind of paper made from the leaves of the maguey. The few Mexican manuscripts which are now preserved in Europe have been reproduced in Lord Kingsborough’s magnificent work, ‘The Antiquities of Mexico.’”’

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the holy sign and their priestly guide, the word meaning “the place of the cactus.” The legend of the eagle, the serpent and the prickly pear is now preserved in the Mexican arms, and is perpetuated on the coins and the national banner.

In later years the city was called Mexico after Mextili, the Aztec God of War, and this name was eventually given to the entire country.

The ancient city of the Aztecs bore some resemblance to Venice, some of the houses resting on piles, others being built on the numerous islands, with canals intersecting the various parts of the city. Massive stone structures, resembling those of Egypt, were reared, including the great Teocalli or Temple of the Aztec gods, in pyramidal form, over a hundred feet high, with one hundred and fourteen steps, reaching from the ground to the esplanade, broad enough for thirty horsemen to march abreast. Great paved causeways led from the city to the surrounding villages.

The Aztecs, at first, were a fierce, migratory people; but after their arrival in Mexico they seem to have acquired the civilization of the tribes by whom they were surrounded, who had inherited the arts and civilization of the Toltecs or other races whom they had succeeded. Having made great advancement in the arts of war, the Aztecs gradually subjugated the surrounding nations and extended their sway over a large part of Mexico. The empire of their great king, Montezuma I, was established about 1460. Under this monarch their power and prestige greatly increased.

The Aztecs and other races inhabiting Mexico at this time were largely sun-worshippers, their religion being distinguished by the most cruel and terrible ceremonies. Prisoners of war, slaves and other victims were slaughtered

MEXICO, PAST AND PRESENT Gs by thousands in the temples. When the great temple of Tenochtitlan was dedicated, twenty thousand are said to have been sacrificed in four days. In the centre of this temple stood the sacrificial stone now in the Mexican National Museum. On this the victim was stretched, when his body was cut open by the officiating priest, and his heart being torn out was offered to the sun and the ferocious God of War. The bodies of the sacrificed were afterwards devoured by the populace. Thousands of skulls, the result of this butchery, were formed into a huge pyramid in the temple, the walls and floor of which reeked with blood. Apart from their terrible religious ceremonies, the Aztecs were a remarkable and cultured race. Even in their religion they recognized a supreme being, and some of their prayers which have been handed down are remarkable for their lofty sentiments and the beauty of their language.'

1“Tn contemplating the religious system of the Aztecs,”’ says Prescott, “one is struck by this apparent incongruity, as though some portion of it had emanated from a comparatively refined people open to gentle influences, while the rest breathes a spirit of unmitigated ferocity. It naturally suggests the idea of two distinct sources, and - authorizes the belief that the Aztecs had inherited from their predecessors a milder faith on which was afterwards engrafted their own mythology.”

The Aztecs recognized the existence of a supreme being, the Lord of the universe. They addressed Him in their prayers as “the God by whom we live,” “omnipresent,” “that knoweth all thoughts and giveth all gifts,” “without whom man is nothing,” “the invisible, incorporeal, one God of perfect perfection and purity,” “under whose wings we find repose and a sure defence.”” These sublime attributes infer no inadequate conception of the true God. But the idea of unity was too simple or too vast for their understandings, and they sought relief in a plurality of deities who presided over the elements, the changes of the seasons and the occupations of man. Of these there were thirteen principal deities and more than two hundred inferior. At the head of these stood the terrible Huitzilopochtli, the Mexican Mars, the patron deity of the nation. His temples were the most stately of the public edifices, and his altars reeked with the blood of human hecatombs in every city of the empire. At the dedication of

They were learned in astronomy; were good lapidaries and potters, workers in silver and gold and weavers of cotton and silk. They cultivated the land thoroughly, and had developed elaborate systems of irrigation. Commerce was organized; towns and villages were connected by roadways; and law and order prevailed. They had an ingenious method of picture-writing and a regular system of education for the young.

~The doom of the Aztec empire and its neighbors was sealed in 1519, when Hernando Cortés landed in Mexico on his expedition of conquest. He had a fleet of 11 ships carrying 110 sailors, 16 cavalrymen with their horses, 553 foot-soldiers, 200 Cuban natives, a battery of 10 small cannon and 4 falconets. To check mutiny among his Spanish followers and to prevent them from seizing the ships and retreating, Cortés burned his vessels at Vera Cruz, then marched inland to the capital of the Aztecs. Montezuma II then reigned in Tenochtitlan. He had been informed of Cortés’ arrival by spies who had been sent down to the coast. “By relays of runners it was possible for a message to reach the Aztec capital (265 miles from the coast) in twelve hours. It is said that fish caught at Vera Cruz - _ In the evening was served at the dinner of Montezuma the following day. This would be as fast as the railway train travels to-day. The Spaniards were astonished at the rapidity with which news of their movements was spread. By these runners the Aztec monarchs kept in communication with all parts of their empire.’

the great temple in the capital it is said that seventy thousand captives were slaughtered at the shrine of this terrible deity.

1 Prescott quotes an author who relates how a North-American Indian travelled a hundred miles in twenty-four hours. According to Plutarch, the Greek who brought the news of the battle of Platea covered one hundred and twenty-five miles ina day. Prescott adds: “The Aztec couriers travelled with such incredible swiftness that

' Montezuma and his priests were convinced from their official reports that Cortés was none other than the Fair God, Quetzalcoatl, the child of the sun, whose return had ~ been promised ages before. They recalled a prediction that Quetzalcoatl was to overturn the Aztec empire. Montezuma sent the supposed god lavish gifts of gold, and endeavored to dissuade him from coming to the capital; but the gold only whetted the appetite of the Spaniards for more and hastened their march to the interior.

Cortés was greatly aided in his conquest of Mexico by Marina, a beautiful young slave who had been presented to him by a Tabascan chief. She was an Aztec, but having learned various dialects when in Tabasco, she was enabled to communicate indirectly with Cortés, who became infatuated with her beauty and made her his mistress. She eventually learned Spanish, and acted as interpreter between himself and Montezuma. Marina told the Mexicans glowing stories of the greatness and splendor of the Spaniards, and it was undoubtedly through her influence that the natives went in such great awe of these strange beings who had come to them from over the seas.

Soon after his arrival, Cortés invaded the country of the Tlascalans, one of the powerful tribes, who had a republican form cf government and were at war with the Aztecs. After conquering them, Cortés gained them as allies, and a large force of Tlascalans accompanied him on his march through the country. He next marched into the kingdom of Cholula, which he subjugated, destroying all the temples and public buildings, and slaughtering thousands of the inhabitants. The natives were terror-stricken by the candespatches were carried, by relays of runners, from one to two hundred miles a day. Fresh fish was frequently served at Montezuma’s table in twenty-four hours from the time it had been taken in the Gulf of Mexico, over two hundred miles from the capital.”

10 MiXICO non and firearms of the Spaniards, and as they had never seen a horse, the animal and rider were supposed to be one being, and were regarded as superhuman. Marching over the mountains, Cortés pressed on to Tenochtitlan, passed over the causeways and entered the city on November 8, 1519.

Montezuma came out to meet the conqueror and, under the influence of superstition, regarding the Spaniards as gods, the Aztecs made no attempt to prevent their entry. The Spanish leader took up his residence in the old palace of Montezuma, where much treasure was discovered and divided among the invaders.

Karly the next year (1520), owing to the cruelty of a body of Cortés’ soldiers, who robbed and murdered a number of Aztec nobles, the people rose in revolt. Montezuma, who had been seized and held prisoner by the Spaniards, was killed while attempting to quell the uprising. On the night of July 1 (afterwards known as ‘‘la noche triste” or “sorrowful night”) the Spaniards attempted to secretly evacuate the city, but were detected and pursued, many of them were killed or taken prisoners and thousands of their Tlascalan followers were slaughtered. With the remnant of his force, Cortés retreated to Tlascala. /In the meantime, Cuautlahuac, brother of Montezuma, was crowned king, but dying four months later, was succeeded by Guatemotzin or Cuauhtemoc, Montezuma’s nephew, who proved to be a brave and able leader. Cortés, refusing to acknowledge defeat, recruited his forces at Tlascala, and won the support of all the tribes who had suffered from Aztec oppression. From mountain forests he brought timber sixty miles overland to the shores of Lake Texcoco, built thirteen brigantines, crossed the lake and once more appeared before the walls of Tenochtitlan with two hundred thousand allies.

The siege began on December 3, 1520, and continued until August 13, 1521, when the garrison was starved into submission and the Spaniards entered the city. Before it fell, all the Aztec treasure was destroyed or concealed. Guatemotzin was cruelly tortured by having his feet held over a glowing fire, but he refused to disclose the secret. The lake and canals were dredged several times, but only a small part of the treasure was recovered. The unfortunate young monarch was afterwards compelled by Cortés © ~ to go with him on an expedition into Honduras. In the depths of the jungle Cortés had him hanged to the branch of a ceiba tree. Thus perished the last of the Aztec kings.

Cortés destroyed the temples in the city and ordered the erection of churches and convents, the first church — now the cathedral — being built upon the site of the great temple of the Aztecs. The Spanish priests, with fanatical frenzy, destroyed nearly all the Aztec picture records or codices, making huge bonfires of them. Of those which escaped destruction a few are preserved in European museums, notably at the Vatican, and some are in the Mexican National Museum. The Aztec houses and public buildings were gradually torn down and replaced with Spanish houses, but the formation of the city was generally observed. In 1634 there was an earthquake, and the waters of the lake suddenly disappeared and the canals gradually dried up. After the Spanish occupation the native population of the city decreased until in 1600 there were only about ten housand natives and about the same number of Spaniards.

rom that time the increase in numbers of Spaniards and mixed population was very rapid, until at the end of the next century there was a population of nearly one hundred and twenty-five thousand.

Cortés became the first governor of Mexico, acquired vast estates, was created Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, and subjugated the rest of Mexico. Many of his followers found wives among Aztec women of noble birth.*

Warlike enough before the Spaniards came, the Aztec masses seem to have been subdued at one blow, and were soon reduced to the position of mere serfs. The Spanish priests, too, having gaincd a great influence over the natives, taught them to obey those whom God had sent to conquer their country. Chiefs who would not submit quietly were won by bribery. Thus by means of force, religion and every corrupt means that could be employed, the spirit of the

1 The author of “ Picturesque Mexico” (pub. 1897) says: ‘“ Many Mexican families of high lineage can point to a family history dating back to the days of the war against the Moors. Some of them are wealthy and still possessed of great estates. Descendants of Cortés still exist, some bearing his name; one of them is living to-day in Tacubaya.

“There are also several descendants of Aztee monarchs, notably - Sefior Roberto Luis Cuauhtemoc, who is fourteenth in descent from the emperor, Cuautlahuac, brother of Montezuma II. Other descendants of Cuautlahuac are Don Pedro Patino Itzalinque, who lives in Holland, and another, Don Pedro Patino Itzalinque, living in the City of San Luis Potosi, Mexico.

“ There are several well-proved descendants of Aztec monarchs now living, who draw pensions from the Mexican government. Some of them reside in Spain and other European countries, and among them is the Duke of Abrantes, the Marquis del Aguilar Fuerte and the Conde de Miravalles.

“The direct descendants of Montezuma are living in Salamanca, Spain, the present head of the family being Sefior Don Augustin Maldonado y Carbayal Cano Montezuma, Marquis of Castellanos y Monroy. The Maldonado family is connected by marriage with the English house of Lancaster and also with the house of Abrantes and Medinaceli, which are of the first nobility in Spain.

“Among other descendants of Montezuma is Eugenie, ex-empress of the French. It is therefore apparent that the widow of Napoleon III was of greater imperial stock than her husband, and brought to the alliance more dignity than she acquired by it.

“In Mexico City there is a gentleman named Mercado who is a descendant of Montezuma, who has many relies of his illustrious ancestors, and is extremely well versed in the history of the Montezuma race.”

people was crushed and all resistance to Spanish rule was overcome. Then followed a great building period. The cities throughout Mexico were rebuilt according to Spanish ideas; and great churches and cathedrals were erected by Indian workmen on the grandiose designs of Spanish architects.

Thereafter, for three hundred years, Mexico was under the dominion of Spain. During this time there were five governors, two councils of three to five members each, and sixty-two viceroys, the first of whom was appointed in 1535. The rule of some of the viceroys was wise and able, and the country made great progress; but as in all Spanish colonies, there was great corruption, oppression and misgovernment. All public offices were held by Spaniards, while the natives, even those of Spanish descent, received no recognition.

At the beginning of the nineteenth century, when Napoleon had overturned thrones and marched an army into Spain, the spirit of revolution spread to Mexico. ‘The newly acquired independence of the United States of North America also served to arouse a desire for freedom among the Mexicans. Several insurrections started at this period, but were speedily stamped out. The first important uprising took place in September, 1810, when Miguel Hidalgo, curate of the village of Dolores in the State of Guanajuato, began the first great movement for independence by ringing the bell of his church, calling his people together and starting a war for freedom. Raising a sacred banner bearing the figure of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the priest organized a little army of three hundred men, armed with clubs, swords, knives and bows and arrows. At the head of these insurgents, he marched to Guanajuato, the people of the country everywhere flocking to his aid. The Spanish garrison at Guanajuato was defeated and the city captured. After successful battles at Morelia and Valladolid, Hidalgo

Pf marched towards Mexico City, but when almost within sight of the capital was defeated, driven back, and his army dispersed. Hidalgo and his chief officers, Allende, Aldama, and Jiminez, were betrayed, captured and executed.

After the death of Hidalgo, a desultory struggle against the Spaniards continued for ten years, and then a new leader, also a priest, Jose Maria Morelos, who had been a student under Hidalgo, entered the field. Organizing a small army, Morelos for two years waged war against the Spaniards, but was at last defeated by an overwhelming force, betrayed and captured. He was tried by an ecclesiastical tribunal and degraded from the priesthood, then handed over to the military authorities, by whom he was condemned to death and shot near the capital in December, 1815. To-day he ranks next to Hidalgo as one of the heroes of Mexico.