our new way around the world

Front matter

wt

‘COLLEGE LIBRARY

EMITE FALis.— Page 488.

Preface

——

“THE last rail has been laid between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and the locomotive runs from ocean to ocean.

A few months hence the waters of the Mediterranean and Red Seas will mingle together through the Suez Canal, and a new way for trade and travel will thus be completed round the world.

This volume contains notes of observation along the route in Egypt, India, Malacca, China, Japan, and California. So much has been written in regard to Europe, that the lines of travel only have been indicated between London and Alexandria.

Observation in so large a field, embracing so many objects, has compelled us to abridge the material at our command in the preparation of this volume.

We have barely alluded to matters of great moment. Our aim has been to bring before the reader such facts, scenes, and incidents as will enable him to obtain a comprehensive idea of the countries with which we are to have intimate relations in the future, and to point out routes of travel to those who contemplate a voyage around the world.

GO. G. G.

Boston, May 10, 1869.

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deal a 3 7 4 w ‘ aul nee as — ’ L ae ai

Table Of Contents

———=

Chapter I. New York To Marseilles

Leaving New York.— Steamer Persia. —War in Europe. — Important Eyents. — Reform Movement in England. — Riot at Hyde Park. — Meeting at Guildhall. — People in Earnest. — Affairs on the Continent. — Visit to Paris. — Victor Emanuel at Venice. — Evacuation of Rome by French Troops.— Coronation at Pesth.— Routes of Travel through Europe. — Rural Scenes in France. — From Paris to Marseilles. — Valley of the Rhone. — Marseilles at Christmas. — Scenes in the Harbor. .

Chapter II. On The Mediterranean

The Great Steamship Companies. — Peninsular and Oriental. — Messageries Impériales. — Austrian Lloyds. — Routes across the Mediterranean. — Italian Line. — Greek Line. — Tide of Travel. — Departure from Marseilles. — The Euphrates. — Her Cargo. — Straits of Bonifacio. — Stromboli. — Scylla and Charybdis.— Across the Adriatic. — Morea. — Navarino. — Gulf of Coran.— Ancient Spartans. — A Hermit. — A Dream of the Past. — Arrival at Pirseus. — Salamis. — Getting Ashore. — Noble Greeks. — Athens. — Cretan Refugees. — To Constantinople. — Syrian Coast. Bed SAG | leu Bae) kot! a's icerats) 9) 51 ) Te) Me

Chapter III. Modern Egypt

Approach to Alexandria. — The Harbor.— The Orient.— Scenes in the City. —The Old and the New. —The Viceroy. — Cotton Culture. — Railroads. — Sons of the Pasha. — Over the Delta. — Irrigation. — The

Nile. . ; é , ; é c fj 4 5 : ‘ c « CHAPTER IV.

CAIRO.

Hotel du Nil. — Houses in the City.— Women of Egypt.— Tradesmen. — Waiters. — Donkeys. — Ploughing. — Ramazan. — Advancement. — Missions. — Persecutioris of Christians. — Future Prospect. . + « vill TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter V. The Delta Of The Nile

The View from the Bluffs. — Heliopolis. — The Citadel. — Mamelukes. — Mehemit Ali. — Pyramids. —Arab Sheik. — Bedouins. —Yankee Doodle. 41 e

Chapter VI. The Suez Canal

The Project. — M. Lesseps. — Charter of the Company. — The Isthmus. — Old Canals. — Pharaoh Necho. — Bonaparte. — Commercial Enterprise. — Opposition of England.—The Country.— Commencement of the Work. — Size of the Canal. — Bay of Pelusium. — Manufactured Stone.— Port Said. — Excavators. — Difficulties encountered. — Lake Menzalah. — Lake Ballah.— Lake Timseh. — Ismalia. — Salt Basin. — Children of Israel. — Suez. — Capital of the Company. — Lottery. — Expenditures. 47

Chapter VII. From Egypt To India

Easter Sunday. — A Gala-Day. — Scenes in the City. — Decay of Mohammedan Faith.— Overland Passengers. — Steamer Baroda.— Starting for India. — Gulf of Suez. — Sinai and Red Sea. — Pilgrims to Mecca. — Mocha. — Dangerous Navigation. — Light-houses. — Island of Perim. — How the English obtained it.— The Gate of Tears. —Sons of Cush. — Aden.— Natives. — Scenes in the Harbor. — Hot Weather. — The Punka.— The Orchestra of the Steamer, . . . . « «© 62

Chapter VIII. Bombay

View of Harbor.— Byculla Hotel. — Population of City. — European Section. — Native Quarters. —Shigrams. — Native Oxen. — Suburbs of the City. — Parsees. — Street Scenes. —Washing up. — Children. — Jewelry.

— Population of India. — Policemen. — Gods in the Wall. — Toddy- Seller. — Currency. — Elephants. — Old Temples. — The Census. — Origin of the Parsees. — Their Towers of Silence. - ete aes - 80

GHAPTER IX.

BRITISH INDIA.

John Bull’s Farm.— Mountains. — Rivers. — Cities of India. — Population. — Governor-General. — East India Company. — Opium. OOD:

Chapter X. The Railways Of India

Facilities for Travel. — Great Indian Peninsular Railway.— Labor of Building. — Class Cars. — Effect of Railways on Caste and Idolatry. . 99

CHAPTER XI. ! HISTORY, PHILOSOPHY, AND RELIGION OF THE HINDOOS. Hindoos. — Aborigines of India.— The Vedas. — Origin of the Hindoo Nation. —The Aryans. — Caste. — Brahmans. — Philosophical Age. . 108

TABLE OF CONTENTS. bs CHAPTER XII.

THROUGH THE DECCAN.

The Ghats. — Nassick. — Hindoo Water-Carrier. — Jungles. — General Features of Central India. — Gorgeous Apparel. — Silver Ornaments.

— Heat. — Nagpore. — Residency Hotel. Cece La Cush Gude -cerllhG CHAPTER XIII.

RIDING IN A DAK.

The Dak. — Romantic Ride. — Kamptel. — Micawber Philosophy. —

Karyea. — Thrilling Story of the Mutiny. — Treatment of the Natives. — The Ryots. — Tigers. —Seonee. — Tarboots. — Obstinate Driver. — Moonshee. — Chaputies. — Mail Carts. — Effect of the Moon. — Nerbudda River. . . . . . . : . 4 . . . 124 CHAPTER XIV.

IN THE HEART OF INDIA.

Jubbulpore. — Valley of the Nerbudda. — Religion of the Hindoos.— Junction of Jubbulpore and Peninsular Railroad. — Allahabad. — Great Hastern Hotel . «. . eC ake Ve ee ise: for se 140

CHAPTER XV.

SCENES IN ALLAHABAD.

Shaving. — Junction of the Jumna and Ganges. — Situation of Allahabad. — Ancient Pillar. — Market-Place.— Deep Well. — Chusora Bagh. — The Future of Allahabad. — Population. — Boston Ice. . 4 2 . 147 CHAPTER XVI.

NATIVE SCHOOLS.

Missionary Operations. — Praying by Machinery. — Desire for Education. —Rey. Mr. Walsh. — School. — Proficiency of Mr. Walsh’s Pupils. — Hindoo Cosmogony.— Getting at the Truth. . . . . «. . 164

CHAPTER XVII.

FROM ALLAHABAD TO BENARES.

Country North of Allahabad. — Its Fertility. — Density of Population. — Mirzapoor. — Rey. Mr. Lambert. — British Goods. — Temple of Kali. — Tyranny of Caste. — Servants. — Mogul Serai.— Benares Station. — Antiquity of Benares. — Temples and Mosques. — Victoria Hotel.. —. 163

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE CITY OF BENARES.

A Morning Ride through the City. — Care for Birds. — Monkey Pagoda. —Pranks of the Monkeys. — Benares a Holy City. ~— Bathing in the Ganges. — Burning the Dead. — Ghats. — Pagodas. — Palaces. — Power of the Brahmans waning. — Charming View. — A Glance at the Past.

— Golden Pagoda. — Sacred Well. — Shiva. — Temple of Una Poorena. 170 x TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE BABOOS.

Man Mundil. — Beautiful Silk Goods. — The Dealings of England with the Hindoos. — Snake-Charmers. — Sarnath. — Gautama. — Buddha. . 181

CHAPTER XX.

DOWN THE VALLEY OF THE GANGES.

The Bengalese. — The Santhals. — Moorshedabad. — Suraja Dowla. — Patna. — Bankapore. — Plassey. — Lord Clive. — Turning-Point in His- Ds a ae RC aA A RR tic en Pe he UE cee

CHAPTER XXI.

OUR FIRST NIGHT IN CALCUTTA.

Arrival. — Scene in the Harbor. — A Bath. — A Wedding Procession. — The Mission Home.—Miss Brittan’s School. — Moral Battle-field. — Native Society. —Hindoo Newspapers. —Domestic Life. — Educated Natives. — Moral Leverage. . -© «+ hay sed Sg -seeeeeoo

CHAPTER XXII.

MISSIONARY OPERATIONS.

Dr. McLeod’s Visit. — Translation of the Bible. — Obstacles. — Native Converts. — Roman Catholic Church. — Exorcising of Devils. : - 205

CHAPTER XXIII.

LIFE IN INDIA.

The Season.—Hot Period. — Rainy Months. — Monsoons.— Swarming of Insects. — White Ants. — Cool Season. — Cyclones. —Famines of 1770 and 1866.— Burning of the Dead. — Government Buildings. — Style of Living.— Ride ina Shigram. . : : : : ° - 209

CHAPTER XXIV.

ACROSS THE BAY OF BENGAL.

The Clan Alpine. — Leaving Calcutta. — Down the Hoogly. —Scenes on the River. — Explosion. — Terrible Scene. — Burialat Sea. . . ~~ 217

CHAPTER XXV.

THE SPICE ISLANDS.

Andaman Islands. — Coast of Burmah. — Cocoa Islands. — Malay Peninsula. — Insect Life. — Province of Wellesely. — Population. - « 221

CHAPTER XXVI.

PENANG.

Phosphorescence of the Sea. — The Town. —In a Sampan. — Duck Pedler.— Prince of Wales Hotel. — Spice Trade. — Chinese at Penang. — Down the Coast.— The Dorian . . oi kes ee eee « 226

TABLE OF CONTENTS. x

CHAPTER XXVIL SINGAPORE.

Town of Malacca. — Arrival at Singapore. — Steamers. — Harbor. — Climate. — Fruits. — Population. — Scenes in the City. — Whampoa’s Garden. — Victoria Regias. — Fan-Palm. So oc FO ee sea

CHAPTER XXVIII.

LIFE IN MALACCA.

Fire-Flies. — The Natives. — Ride to Selita. — Rank Vegetation. — Tigers. — Gutta-Percha. — Pepper Culture. — Climate. — White Ants. . - 242

CHAPTER XXIX.

FROM SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG.

Chinese Passengers. — Their Customs and Habits. — Curiosity. — Gambling. — Pride. — Expressing an Opinion. — Approaching Hong Kong. . 247

CHAPTER XXX.

GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF CHINA.

China compared with the United States. — The Flowery Kingdom. — Early History. — Chronology. — Dynasties. — Credible History. — Europeans in China. Be Mor. Pech! rtp params 6 RAY 2.4 2x3 (268

CHAPTER XXXI.

HONG KONG.

The Town from the Harbor.—The Island. — Shipping. — Our Admiral. — Hong Kong Hotel. — Sunday Morning. — Church Services. — Ride in a Sedan. . . . . . : . . . . . . + 260

CHAPTER XXXII OPIUM.

The Saloons. —Preparation of the Drug. —Smokers. — Beginning and Growth of the Traffic. — War with England. — Opinion of ne concerning the Traffic. . an te . . ° . ° - 267

CHAPTER XXXIII.

FROM HONG KONG TO CANTON.

American Steamers.— Finger Nails. — Passengers. — Bogue Forts. — Whampoa Junks. — First Sight of Canton. — Scene in Harbor. — Family Boats. — White Cloud Hills.— Foreigners. . . . . - - 273

CHAPTER XXXIV.

THE INFLUENCE OF CONFUCIUS.

His Birth. — Early Life. — Elevation to Office. — Woman’s Charms. — His Poetry. — Annotation of the Classics. — Foundation of Political System. . . eta th ee eet tet Oke eeare: — *o Fe eG OW)

xil TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXV.

SOUTHERN CHINA.

The Eighteen Provinces. — Canton River.— The Country. — Cities. — Exports. — Manufactures. — Silk Culture. —Macao.— Cooly Trade. . 283

CHAPTER XXXVI.

A RAMBLE IN CANTON.

Streets. — Houses. — Goods. — Provisions. — What the People eat. — Foreign Devils. — Old Hairy. — Musicians. — Apothecary. — Small Feet. . 290

CHAPTER XXXVIZ.

THE TEMPLE OF THE OCEAN BANNER.

Island of Honam.— Approach to the Temple. — The Holy Umbrella. — The Three Precious Ones. — Buddhist Worship.— Tauist Religion. — Old Boy. — Transmigration. —Luck-Blocks.. . . . . «297

CHAPTER XXXVIIL MORAL FORCES.

Presbyterian Mission. — Medical Mission. — Dr. Preston. — Dr. Keer. — Scene in the Hospital. — Visit to the Chapel. — The Congregation. — French Catholics. — Their Cathedrak . . wa <a - . 804

CHAPTER XXXIX. ~ ON THE CANTON RIVER.

In a Sampan. — Pigeon English. — Fishing with Cormorants. — Flower- Boats. — Dinner-Party. — Duck-Boats. — Benevolent Societies. — Mutual-Aid Companies. . . . . ° . ° . ° - 809

CHAPTER XL.

UP THE COAST OF CHINA.

The Erl-King. — Swatow. — River Han. — Fishing-Boats. — Emigration. — Amoy. — Foochow. — Black Tea. — Fu-kien. — Timber. — Junks. . 316

CHAPTER XLII.

APPROACH TO SHANGHAE.

The Wusung. — Meadows. — The Country.— Steamers and Ships. —

Shanghae. — The Hen Fever. — Gardens of China. — Admiral Parker. — Growth of Shanghae. — Landing. — Astor House. . eee - 822

CHAPTER XLII.

IN THE CITY OF SHANGHAE.

View from the Hotel. — Scenes in the Harbor. — Transportation. — Delta of the Yangtse. — Health. — Missionaries. —Tea-Houses and Shops. —

Flowery Names. — Inscriptions. — The Faith and Charity Shop. — Worship of Ancestors. — Offerings tothe Dead. . . . « «© . 828

TABLE OF CONTENTS. Xill

CHAPTER XLII. * FUNG SHUEY.

A Land of Superstitions. — Foggy Weather. — Meaning of Fung Shuey. —*Sien Sangs. — Stroll through the City. — Disturbance of Fung Shuey. — Opposition to Innovation. — Objection to Railroads. — Governor-General Tseng. — Gold-Mines. — Strength and Weakness of Government. .

CHAPTER XLIV.

FESTIVALS.

Native Watchmen. — Musquitoes. — Five Emperors. — Demons of Darkness. — Climate. — Display on the River. — Bookstores. — The Poet Lin. — Close of Festival. . < . : : . . . :

CHAPTER XLV.

ROMANISM IN CHINA.

The Soochow Road.— Chow Chow. — Graves. — Children’s Tomb. — Foundling Hospital. — Jesuits. — What they are doing. — Restoration of Property. — Ceremonial. — Number of Catholic Priests. — Protestant Religion. — Progress. A 5 . : : . . P

CHAPTER XLVI.

UP THE YANGTSE.

Size of the River. —Inundation. — Avenues for Trade. — Steamers. — Kiang Loon. — Kiang Yang. — The Country. — Chin Kiang. — Grand Canal. — Salt Port. —Silver Coin.— Timber Rafts. — Nankin. — Late Rebellion. — Little Orphan Island. — Poyang Lake.— Merchants of China. E ° . 5 5 5 ° “ < : 2 és

CHAPTER XLVII.

CENTRAL CHINA.

Whang-choo. — Military Encampment. — Soldiers. — Military Tactics. — Hankow. — The three Cities. — Contrast between Old and New Civilizations. — Foreigners. — Wu-chung. — Bishop Williams. — Yamun of the Governor-General. — School. — Women of China. — Their Degraded Condition. : : ° . . A .

CHAPTER XLVIUIL.

When Established. — Theory of the System. — University Buildings. — Temple of Perfect Justice. — Degrees. — Students. — Jury. — Ovations. — Successful Competitors. — Democratic Principle. — Reverence paid to the Classics. —Students on a Lark. — Chop-Sticks. — Visit to the Governor. . 2 a ie E : . . : oe, tite otitlics

. 348

« 374

XIV TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLIX.

CULTIVATION OF TEA.

Export from Hankow. — Qualities of Tea. —Its Use in China. — Early Trade. —Its Consumption in the United States. — Green Tea. — The Shrub. — Gathering the Leaves. — Preparation for Market. — Packing. — Tasting. — Tea-Saloons. —Value of Exports. — Commercial Relations.

CHAPTER L.

THE FUTURE OF CHINA.

Opinion of Mr. Burlingame. — University of Pekin. — Official Position of Foreigners. — Reactionary Party. — Ancient Policy of the Government. — What Foreigners ask. — Physical Force of England. — Position of the Chinese. — Introduction of Steamers. — Attitude of California and Oregon toward Chinese. . . . «© + + «2 « -«

CHAPTER LI

NORTHERN CHINA.

When to visit Pekin. — Cheefoo.— Tientsin. — Chinese Carts. — Passports. — Description of Pekin. — The Great Wall. — Passage to Japan. Mle, LYPOGONs fer |e, cs tan st = eee cates Ue ee

CHAPTER LIL APPROACH TO NAGASAKI.

The Harbor. — Fortifications. — Island of Pappenberg. — Intercourse of Foreign Nations with the Japanese. — Xavier. —The Jesuits. — The [SUCCES te era tae Ne he ee eae

CHAPTER LIII.

_ WESTERN JAPAN.

Nagasaki. — A Shopkeeper. — Japanese Ladies. — Baths. — Tea-Houses. — Education. — Minstrels. — Japanese Art. — Yokohama. — Conservative Japanese. — Mysteries of Crinoline. 5 a : 2

CHAPTER LIV.

THROUGH THE INLAND SEA.

Lovely Morning. — Natural Arch. — Persecution of Christians by Buddhist Priests. —Coast of Kuisiu.—Town of Kokura. — Japanese Graves. — A Funeral Procession. — Sinto Belief. — Spiritual Festival.

— The Tokaido. — Town of Chofu. — Japa Mode of Travelling. — A Charming Panorama... : “

. . . . .

e

CHAPTER LV.

HIOGO.

Countless Sails. — Rice-Fields. — Hiogo, the Port of Osaka. — Manufactures and Trade. — Country around Osaka. — Climate. — Harbor. — Going Ashore. — Looking at Curiosities. —Tea-House and Gardens. —

TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV

Temple of the Sun. — Worshippers. — Japanese Honor. — Social Habits. — Hats. — Picnic. — Coolies. — Population. — Fusivama. — Bay of Yedo.— Villages . . Sot OVE ROr he ee ° - 440

CHAPTER LVI.

YOKOHAMA.

Situation of Yokohama. — Harbor. — Hétel d’Europe. — Curio Street. — Houses and Shops. — Shopman. — Bronzes. — Photographs. — Foreign Trade of Yokohama. — Government of Japan. — The Tycoon.— Civil War in Japan.— The Damios. — The Flora of Japan. — Kamakura, its Location, Temples, and Shrines. — Temple of Hachiman. —Dia-Boots. 448

CHAPTER LVIL ¥EDO.

The Capital of Japan. — How to visit it. — Yakonins. — Situation of Yedo. —The Castle. — Soto-Siro.— Bridges and Streets. — Population of Nedo.——Descriniom of Citys 0) tam e-wl i es ee ate cu45S

CHAPTER LYIII.

FROM JAPAN TO CALIFORNIA.

Pacific Mail Company. — Freight. — Chinese Passengers. — Magnificent Steamers. — Leaving Yokohama.— Search for Deserters. — Passengers. — The Voyage. — Our Native Land. . ° : . ° + 464 CHAPTER LIX.

CALIFORNIA.

Aladdin’s Lamp. nee of Gold. — Size of California. — Development of the State. — Culture of the Grape. — Silk Culture. — Education. — Lincoln School. — Churches. — Fertility of the vipat — Its

Fruits. — A Paradise. F : - 4 : ‘ r . 468 CHAPTER LX.

YOSEMITE.

The Big Trees and Yosemite Valley. — Ride to Mariposa. — Hatch’s. — In the Saddle. — Arrival at Clark’s.— Digger Indians. — Big Trees. — On Horseback in a Tree. — Calaveras Grove.— A Description of the Big Trees.— A Ride through the Woods.—Nature’s Cathedral. — Situation of Yosemite. — View of the Valley. — Distances and Elevations. — Mr. Hutchins’s Hotel. — El Capitan. — Bridal Veil. — Yosemite Falls. — Indian Names. — North and South Domes. iy ie ee | cen i6!,

CHAPTER LXI.

SALT LAKE.

Approaching the City. —Early Settlement.—Forbidding Prospect. — Covenant at Nauvoo. — Emigration to Salt Lake. — Church Police. — Mormon Law. — Tabernacle Square. — Inside and Outside. — The

Harem. — Brigham’s Wife and Concubines. . : 5 : 5 - 491 b

XV1 TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER LXII.

THE PACIFIC RAILROAD.

Central and Union Pacific Railroad Companies. — Work commenced. —

Hard Work for Engineers. — Difficulties encountered. . ° F . 501 CHAPTER LXIII.