Bihé and Garenganze : or four years' further work and travel in Central Africa

Preface

HOSE who are acquainted with Mr. Arnot’s previous volume

JL entitled Garenganze will remember that the very extensive kingdom bearing that name, founded by the late king Msidi, was peculiarly one of mushroom growth, and its future was therefore a matter of concern, especially to those who watched the patient effort made by Mr. Arnot and his companions to take the gospel there. Since the publication of that volume, in 1889, there has been a growing interest in the Lord’s work in that portion of Central Africa, and many will be glad to know how things have progressed there, and in other places lying on the route to Garenganze, the capital of which is about half way across the continent, and some ten degrees south of the equator.

Many letters containing information from this part of the Dark Continent have been published in a small periodical called Echoes of Service^ but these have come so irregularly, and often at such long intervals, as to make it difficult to gather from them a connected idea of the work. With the object of furnishing this, Mr. Arnot, who is again in England for health’s sake, has sought to put together some of the interesting letters and diaries of his fellow-labourers, adding also his own observations. He has refrained from saying much about his share in the work, but this has been valuable in many ways, and not least from his care to preserve the simplicity with which his service was begun.

At present this field, from Benguella to the centre, is unoccupied by others, except at Bailundu and Bihe, where American missionaries were at work before Mr. Arnot went there. It was with no desire to enter upon their labours that a station was established in the Bihe district; but the very serious transport iv

Preface.

difficulties made it necessary to form a base there, so as to bring up goods from the coast and forward them to the interior when opportunity offered. At Kwanjulula an unoccupied sphere was found with free scope for the gospel. The line of country between Bihe and Garenganze, however, is that which Mr. Arnot and his fellow-labourers especially have in view, and of which these pages chiefly tell.

Our little part in the preparation of this volume has been to supply African letters from amongst the large number we receive from many parts of the world, and to give some help in editing, so as to relieve Mr. Arnot, as anything more than light work is likely to frustrate the object for which he is now in England. He expects to set out very shortly for Canada and the United States with Mr. Faulknor, whose marvellous recovery, after three years of very sore suffering in Garenganze, is a cause for much thankfulness.

We need scarcely add that Mr. Arnot’s heart is still in Africa, and as soon as his medical advisers consent to his return he hopes to take up again the work to which he has devoted his life. It was through reading Dr. Livingstone’s account that he was first led to Africa, and the tidings he and his companions have been able to furnish have induced a good many others to set out in small parties on the same errand of love. Though three have fallen on the field the deaths have been fewer in comparison than in many other parts of Africa, and on the whole the plateau on which the three widely-separated stations — Bih^ Nana Kandundu, and Garenganze — are situated may be considered healthy. As we hear of tribe after tribe who are yet without the gospel, we hope that the Christian reader will bear in mind the Lord’s command, “Pray ye the Lord of the harvest, that He will send forth labourers into His harvest.”

J. L. Maclean, m.d., Bath.

March, 1S93. ^ENNET, YeovU.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I. Response to the Call from Africa . . . i

II. Voyage to Benguella, and Scarcity of Carriers s

Chapter 1

to t|)e ^all fiom Africa.

HE central region of the African continent, so long regarded i as hopelessly savage, inaccessible, and pestiferous, has in recent years become the object of lively interest to many ; and the scripture, “ He will destroy . . . the face of the covering cast over all people, and the vail that is spread over all nations,” is being in measure fulfilled. Since Dr. Livingstone’s first great journey in 1854 scarcely a year has passed without bringing to light some new part of the interior » of this vast continent, and it has been abundantly made manifest that the Church of God in Great Britain and America has had the spiritual destitution of Africa laid heavily upon its conscience by the Holy Ghost.

It is not now ‘‘a man of Macedonia” calling an apostle to “come over” from Asia to the help of the benighted continent of Europe, but it is the mute appeal of a man of Africa on behalf of his dark and long-neglected country that has weighed as a burden on the spirit of many of God’s faithful ones. Some of these, “assuredly gathering” God’s mind, not from “vision,” but from reported facts concerning the misery and sore need, have left their home, with its happy ministries and fellowship, and have gone forth in obedience to the call of the Spirit of God ; while others, equally persuaded of their responsibility, have sought to sustain them in their service. That the faith of those who have thus helped as well as of those who have gone forth has been and is tried, often to severest tension and from causes strange and unprecedented, only demonstrates that God’s thoughts and ways are as unfathomable as our faith is shallow.

FAREWELL MEETING IN LONDON.

The little company who were commended to God at a farewell meeting held at Exeter Hall, London, on the 19th of March, 1889, and left England on the 22nd for service in Central Africa, experienced their full share of perplexity, anxiety, and sorrow ; but the survivors have also had much proof of God’s watchful care and delivering mercy. Some of these varied experiences it is the object of the following pages to set forth, but it may be well first to recall the words of cheer and encouragement given to us by our brethren at the meeting on the eve of our departure.

Dr. Neatby reminded us that “ God was in Christ reconciling the world unto Himself,” and that Christ had “ committed unto us the word of reconciliation.” “ It behoved Christ to suffeB^ — if He would unfold that heart of eternal love — “and to rise from the dead the third day; and that repentance and remission of sins should be preached in His name among all nations, beginning at Jerusalem.” This was the message we had to take to the poor savages of Africa.

The late Mr. Henry Groves added :

In Hebrews x. 36 we read, “For ye have need of patience^ that after ye have done the will of God ye might receive the promise.” Let us begin with patience, and go on with it, and not expect to receive the promise until we have done the will of God. “ He that shall come will come.” Christ will not loiter on the way, and let us not look back.. Looking back is the beginning of going back. The eleventh chapter tells us of faith as a substance, and the twelfth exhorts us to run with patience, “looking unto Jesus.” It is blessed to notice the way in which faith is brought in between the hope of the Lord’s coming and the present time of service. Faith also brings us nearer to one another in spirit as day by day passes and the coming of the Son of God draws nigh.

There is a peculiar interest in the fact that Africa is now absorbing

Farewell Meeting.

so much interest in the political, commercial, and religious world, because Africa is coming in last. It has to be included, that the blessed Lord Jesus may yet gather out of Africa those who shall be to the praise of the glory of His grace in the ages to come. Let us expect great things from God as we draw near the consummation of the ages, and let our faith be a reality. Our Lord said, “ When the Son of man cometh shall He find faith on the earth ? ” and it is solemn to think there is nothing the Church lacks so much now as faith in God. People often say, “ I believe in God ; I believe in the Holy Ghost.” I often ask myself the question, “Do /believe in God

God blows upon a great deal that is done, because it is done in the energy of the flesh and not in the power of God. If God were in our work, a very little would go a long way. The Church of God is left here as a witness to the reality of the presence and power of the living God, but there is nothing in which the Church has so much failed as in manifesting the presence of the living God in her midst. But, oh, for patient waiting for the Advent ! May the Lord breathe patience into these impatient hearts of ours, whether as toilers in Africa, or in our daily work in this land, and may the hope of the Advent bring patience into all our labour.

Faith in God will accomplish mighty realities for us, if we lay hold on the omnipotence of God. God wants our faith to be a “substance.” People say sometimes, “ What are you going to depend upon.?” “Upon the living God” ought to be the answer. If you have Him you have everything ; if not, you have nothing. We need to learn that money is not almighty. What the Church has to learn is that God does not need money. He wants trust in the living God. You may be asked, “Who gives you your salary.? Where is your pay to come from .?” The answer again must be, “ I get my pay from God ; God sends the pay.” When God sent Elijah, He sent him to the brook Cherith, and fed him by means of ravens. “ But are you going to trust to ravens.?” If 'God gives the ravens food for His servant they will bring every bit of it, because God sends them. Remember this, however, not to go to the brook Cherith unless God sends you.

When Elijah was about to offer his sacrifice on Mount Carmel he cried to God for fire from heaven, but what did he do first .? He got four barrels of water, and the people at his bidding poured them over the sacrifice, not once, nor twice, but three times. Elijah knew what he was doing, and we need to have the fire of nature’s enthusiasm extinguished in us, so that when all is gone, and not a spark is left, then the fire from heaven may come. A little discouragement of any one now may save him much trouble and sorrow afterwards. Yet,

Bihe and Garenganze.

let us take care what we do ; let us not quench the Spirit of God in any one. But we do need fire fro7n heaven. It may be we want something to do. But God may wish us to sit down first, and do nothing. It took forty years to teach Moses that he was nobody. When we learn that, God can use us. God wants a nobody to do His work. The reason why many of us are set aside is because we want to be somebody.

Some years ago I saw a picture in a friend’s house, having an ox with an altar on one side and a plough on the other, and these words underneath, “ Ready for either.” Are you ready for either ? If you are not ready for the altar as well as for the plough, do not go with the gospel to Africa, or any other land. The three Hebrews were prepared to go into the furnace. They knew God could deliver them ; but if He did not, they were still prepared to take the consequences. But we have a higher example — “looking unto Jesus . . . who endured the cross He is our perfect pattern. The blessed Jesus never looked at the cost. He never told Peter how much it would cost his Lord to redeem him ; and whenever we begin to bargain as to the cost, we have got upon the lines of Judas Iscariot. Christ looked to the joy that was set before Him, and He is now seated at the right hand of God. Those who are about to go forth for Christ will meet with disappointments and discouragements, and the devil will seek in every way to hinder them, but let them trust in the living God and He will never fail them nor forsake them.

CHAPTER II. (March to August, 1889.)

HE difficulty previously experienced by missionaries on

X arriving at Benguella in procuring means of transport inland from the coast, made it advisable that the outgoing company should be divided into two parties. The first was composed of the following :

Mr. Daniel Crawford, formerly lawyer’s clerk, from Greenock ;

Mr. George Fisher, for many years assistant to a medical practitioner at Swansea ;

Mr. Frederick Lane, previously employed in the office at Scotland Yard ;

Mr. Archibald Munnoch, formerly a miner, from Falkirkshire, who was commended as one suited to be a helper of others in transport and other service ;

My wife and myself.

Each servant of Christ, in a very real sense, went forth on his own responsibility to his Master, though not independently of fellow-Christians with whom he had been associated at home, and who gave their fellowship and counsel. As workers we were bound together in serving one. common Master ; not because this was in our judgment the wisest way or the happiest way; but simply because it was the only scriptural way which we could discover ; and I believe that must ever be the happiest and surest path, although I acknowledge that all its joy and safety hangs upon the very fine point of individual spirituality and subjection to the will of Christ.

Mr. Lane wrote thus en route to Benguella :

We had a fair passage to Lisbon, which we reached on the 30th March, and where we were well cared for at a moderate cost at the

Bike and Garenganze.

[April

Hotel Durand, During the time we were there we distributed many copies of the tract, Safety, Certainty, afid Enjoyment, printed in Portuguese. We left Lisbon April 6th, and for two days had very rough weather and much sea sickness. But by the time we reached Madeira, on the evening of the 8th, the sea had considerably calmed down. There we were met by Mr. Smart, who has charge of the Sailors’ Rest. Our arrival having been announced to two or three Christians in the neighbourhood, they came together and warmly commended us to God. One of them gave us the following scriptures, “^‘All things are delivered unto Me of My Father”; “All power is given unto Me,” etc. Our next port was St. Vincent. There we were entertained by a brother named Everleigh, who is toiling on almost alone, having many difficulties to contend with. The next day we arrived at Santiago (another of the Cape Verd Islands), quite an inviting little spot, which I would bring under the prayerful notice of Christians. There are about 3000 inhabitants, mostly coloured. We are now approaching the island of Principe, eight or nine days from the last stopping-place, so we have had more time for letter writing, etc. The time slips away very quickly, being fully occupied with Bible study, Portuguese lessons, and various other things. I wish much that I could speak Portuguese, as such good opportunities present themselves for conversation. However, as we are unable to do this, I do trust that our actions may speak, that Christ may be seen in us, and that He may be glorified in us. To live thus incurs reproach now, but we think of the joy of that day. His “Well done !” will far more than repay us for all sufferings down here. The joyous prospect of that day makes it comparatively easy to leave home with all its loving surroundings, and increases one’s desire to reach the land in which I believe the Lord has called me to labour. I pray that God may give me a tender and sympathetic heart towards the poor Africans, that in all love I may bear the tidings of salvation to them. How precious is that promise, “ My God shall supply all your need according to His riches in glory by Christ Jesus.”

“ Is the wilderness before thee,

Desert lands where drought abides ?

Heavenly springs shall there restore thee,

Fresh from God’s exhaustless tides.”

Mr. D. Crawford’s brief account was :

You cannot know how happy we all are together. Our day has two divisions, namely, Bible reading and language studying. Last Lord’sday about 50 in the forecastle gathered round us to hear Mr. Arnot speak, and listened very quietly and with a seeming appreciation. As we plough onward day by day to that place whither He has called

Scarcity of Carriers.

us, we can only plead for His equipment and the manifestation of that victorious Presence in our work. We would in the fear of. God tread the path of simplicity and integrity, and to this end please pray for us.

DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING CARRIERS.

At Loanda I received a letter from Mr. Sanders, of the American Mission at Benguella, saying that carriers were very scarce, and consequently they had for a long time been unable to supply their own stations at Bailundu and Bihe with necessary provisions.

We arrived safely at Benguella on May 9th. The following remarks, taken from a letter written by me at the time, describe the situation :

Mr. Sanders had gone inland three weeks previously in search of carriers for us as well as for their own transport, as the American missionaries have very many loads here awaiting carriers. Dr. Webster died of fever, at Benguella, five days before our arrival, and we found Mrs. Sanders and Mrs. Webster alone, and in very poor health. Dick was waiting for us on the little iron jetty, and glad I was to see the dear lad, who had made his way to the coast from Garenganze to meet me. He had brought no carriers with him. A letter from Mr. Currie, Chisambo, said that no carriers were procurable ; he could not even get a man to take him over to their annual mission meeting. Mr. Fay, of Bihe, writes, No carriers^' after doing his utmost for months. Every man able to leave home has gone to the rubber trade. Mr. Sanders, writing from Bailundu, says he has visited the chief, and has no prospect of any carriers from there for several months. Yesterday I went to Catumbella, where I met quite a number of old friends from up country, but saw there was little prospect of getting men ; indeed some of the wealthier native traders have had to store a lot of their stuff in Catumbella for lack of carriers.

Thus the way does seem not only difficult, but shut against us, and our only course will be to look about for some suitable pack animals — oxen, mules, or donkeys—to take our goods as far, at least, as Bihe. Oxen are difficult to train, and fret themselves in the narrow native paths. Donkeys can be had in Benguella, but not trained to carry. We propose to train a few, but they would not suffice ; so, after much consideration, we have decided to send to Teneriffe or Santiago for a supply of inules., say twelve, each of which would carry at least three men’s loads. The difficulty in the meantime is very great. If prospects do not greatly improve I would advise any in the next party whose health might be endangered by a few months’ stay at Benguella to go on to Mossamedes,

Bihe and Garenganze.

[Aug.

Fortunately the Eastern Telegraph Company had just finished laying a cable along the West Coast of Africa, and the first paid message from Benguella was one from me informing the second party of the state of matters. As things seemed to grow worse instead of better I sent two other telegraphic messages, in order to make sure that they should not set forth blindly on a path beset with so many obstacles. An order was also sent to the island of Santiago for twelve pack mules, in the hope that the second party might bring the animals with them to Benguella.

Mr. Sanders returned from Bailundu, having hastened down on account of Dr. Webster’s death. He brought no carriers, and ’ held out no prospect of any being found for us. So with the help of six men, a horse, a donkey, and the loan of Mr. Sanders’ mule, Messrs. Lane and Munnoch, my wife and I, started for Bailundu, leaving Messrs. G. Fisher and Crawford at the coast to await the arrival of the second party.

Late in the evening we left Catumbella, a trading town which has a small white population of rather more than one hundred, and camped for the night among the barren limestone hills that gird the coast. Next day we reached the Shupwa Pass about midday. Mr. Lane seemed to be exhausted with the journey, and ere night he was down with an attack of fever and dysentery. I sent back to Catumbella for help at once. The following day we all rested, nursing Lane. Mr. Munnoch returned with him to Benguella, and my wife and I pushed on to Bailundu to do our utmost to procure carriers.

Travelling through the passes leading to Chisanje we had to walk most of the way. In clambering over huge boulders the horse fell once or twice and got badly cut, and the donkey was very obstinate. At last late one afternoon we struggled into our camping place, my wife having fainted twice from the heat and exertion. Next day we were able to ride most of the way.

The few men we had were only engaged to go as far as the Chivula country, which we safely reached on the 6th of July, after eleven days’ journey from the coast. Here we remained for a few days, while I sent my lad Dick on to King Ekwikwi’s war camp to ask him for carriers to take us to Bailundu. He sent nineteen, so my wife was able to enjoy the luxury of riding in

A fricaji Calculation.

a tipoia^ which is the Portuguese name for a canvas hammock hung upon a long palm pole, and carried on the shoulders of two men.

Three days’ travelling brought us to Ekwikwi’s camp, where the king welcomed us, providing a large grass hut for our accommodation. It was with very great difficulty I got permission to go on to Bailundu to collect carriers in his villages, as he said all his people were preparing to join him in his “war”; but he allowed me to collect men, if I could, in the Chivanda country and along the west bank of the Keve river.

My wife had fever for a few days in this camp, and I was thankful when I was able to procure a further relay of men to take her on to the American Mission station in Bailundu.

From August the 4th I was alone in the Chivanda country, where for several weeks I toiled about from village to village on my poor horse, sometimes covering 60 miles a day, collecting or trying to collect carriers. One night would find me lying curled up by a fire in a corner of a native hut, with seven or eight long black fellows stretched out all around me, and the next night perhaps making the most of some deserted camp in the bush. At last, little by little, hope began to rise ; but even when promises w^ere given, second and third visits had to be made. Then came the final assurance, “Yes; let me see, to-day my wife has gone to the field barn for corn ” (and down goes the little finger of the left hand, artfully kept in its place by the forefinger and thumb of the right) ; “ to-morrow she will soak and hull it” (the second finger is pulled down); “on the third day she will pound it into, meal ; on the fourth day she will dry it and put it into a skin bag — why, on the fifth day I will be ready.” “And what about your two brothers you promised to bring with you?” “Oh, they have gone to a spirit dance at our mother’s village.” Iffiis one definite promise, however, gives me something to work upon. I start off several paid agents to scour the country and call at all the villages visited by me with the final announcement: “ After days Monare will form a camp at the meeting of the three paths by the two rivers in the Ohumbe district of Chivanda.” I post off for a good-bye visit to my wife in Bailundu, and am ready waiting at the appointed place on the fifth day.

lO

Bike and Garenganze.

The delay of a few more days was still required, with a little humouring of the first batch or two of men who had joined me. One day I bought them a goat, another day we went off and fired a stretch of reeds by the river, and shot some water-bucks as they escaped ; and so I kept the men happy until all who were coming with us had joined the camp. Then came a talk over the recognised rules and bye-laws of “ the road.” A crier was appointed to call out each evening instructions as to the next day’s march, and a start was made in regular order for the coast.

EKWIKWI, KING OF BAILUNDU.

CHAPTER III. (June to October, 1889.)

I MUST now turn to the movements of the second party, made up of the following :

Dr. Walter Fisher, m.r.c.s., l.r.c.p., London;

Mr. R. B. Gall, from Highgate, an experienced gardener ;

Mr. Thos. Morris, of Walthamstow, London, and his wife ; besides attending to his duties as a city merchant, Mr. Morris had carried on for some years a successful gospel work in Walthamstow, where many can still testify to the fact that the Lord was pleased to use him to their conversion ;

Mr. R. J. Johnston, commended from the north of Ireland, where he had been labouring as an evangelist, and was beloved by many;

Mr. H. B. Thompson, also from the north of Ireland, where he had been sub-editor of a newspaper.

Miss Gilchrist, of Hamilton, and Miss Davies, of Bristol, completed the party.

They left London June 22nd, 1889, and their progress is described in the following extracts from Mr. R. J. Johnston’s journal :

June 26th, 1889. Near- Lisbon, — We got on board the Gibraltar about seven on Saturday morning, and left the docks about eight. There was a good number of Christians at the place to see our ship steam out. Amidst many sobs they were able to sing the first verse of “ God be with you till we meet again,” but could get no further. There they stood until we were out of sight, waving hats and handkerchiefs. When we got away we turned our attention to what we

Bike and Garenganze.

[June, could see down the Thames, but our hearts were with the friends we had left behind. Dear Mr. Morris, who had left his four young children behind him, said to me, “ I thought my heart would have gone in two when I was parting with the children, but it’s for His sake and the gospel’s.” The day was splendid, and we enjoyed it, passing the cliffs of Dover with their chalk rocks ; and the beautiful spray from every wave was something grand.

We went to bed about ten o’clock, after singing a few hymns together on deck ; but in the morning, when I awoke after a good night’s sleep, the ship was rocking like a cork on the waves, and I found the mighty roll of the Atlantic was not like the smooth waters of the Thames.

Every morning we have a Bible-reading on deck, and are reading in Joshua and Mark. We were noticing how many men of God in the Scriptures are said to have wept^ and you know the verse which says, “ He that goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him.” God keeps a bottle for the tears. How very few of mine go into it !

I was reading this morning Psalm Ivii. The Psalmist cried unto God, who, he said, performed all things for him. Oh, to let Him perform all things for us ! He would be sure to do the right. All our party are pretty well to-day, although the sea is very heavy, and we are getting a tremendous rolling, but it’s grand, now that our sickness is over. We are persuaded that the living God holds the water — all the sea — in the hollow of His hand. What a powerful hand that must be ! We are sure to be in it now, as we are on the water, which is in His hand. We hope to land in Lisbon to-morrow morning, and will be there for more than a week ; but this time won’t be lost, as we shall be able to study the Portuguese language.