The Bible In Spain

Front matter

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THE

Preface

Ir is very seldom that the preface of a work is read; indeed, of late years most books have been sent into the world without any. I deem it, however, advisable to write a preface, and to this I humbly call the attention of the courteous reader, as its perusal will not a little tend to the proper understanding and appreciation of these volumes.

The work now offered to the public, and which is styled “ Tae Bisie m1 SPAIN,” consists of a narrative of what occurred to me during a residence in that country, to which I was sent by the Bible Society, as its agent, for the purpose of printing and circulating the Scriptures. It comprehends, however, certain journeys and adventures in Portugal, and leaves me at last in “ the iand of the Corahai,” to which region, after having undergone considerable buffeting in Spain, I found it expedient to retire for a season.

It is very probable that had I visited Spain from mere curiosity, or with a view of passing a year or two agreeably, I should never have attempted to give any detailed account of my proceedings, or of what I heard and saw. I am no tourist, no writer of books of travels; but I went there on a somewhat remarkable errand, which necessarily led me into strange situations and positions, involved me in difficulties and perplexities, and brought me into contact with people of all descriptions and grades; so that, upon the whole, I flatter myself that a narrative of such a pilgrimage may not be wholly uninteresting to the public, more especially as the subject is not trite; for, though various booka

-have been published about Spain, I believe that the present is the only one in existence which treats of missionary labour in that country.

Many things, it is true, will be found in the following volume which have little connexion with religion, or religious enterprise; I offer, however, no apology for introducing them. I was, as I may say, from first to last adrift in Spain, the land of old renown, the land of wonder and mystery, with better opportunities of becoming acquainted with its strange secrets and peculiarities than,

erhaps, ever yet were afforded to any individual, certainly to a foreigner; and if in many instances J have introduced scenes and characters perhaps unprecedented in a work of this description, I have only to observe, that, during my sojourn in Spain, I was so unavoidably mixed up with such, that I could scarcely have given a faithful narrative of what befell me had I not brought them forward in the manner which I have done.

It is worthy of remark, that, called suddenly and unexpectedly “to undertake the adventure of Spain,” I was not altogether unprepared for such an enterprise. In the day-dreams of my boyhood, Spain always bore a considerable share, and I took a particular interest in her, without any presentiment that I should, at a fature time, be called upon to take a part, however humble, in her strange dramas; which interest, at a very early period, led me to acquire her noble language, and to make myself acquainted with her literature (scarcely worthy

_ of the language), her history, and traditions; so that when I entered Spain for | the first time I felt more at home than I should otherwise have done. | In Spain I passed five years, which, if not the most eventful, were, I have no hesitation in saying, the most happy years of my existence. Of Spain at the t time, now that the day-dream has vanished, never, alas! to return, I entertain the warmest admiration: she is the most magnificent country in the ‘world, probably the most fertile, and certainly with the finest climate. Whether her children are worthy of their mother, is another question, which I shall not attempt to answer; but content myself with observing that, amongst much that 4s lamentable and reprehensible, J have found much that is noble aad to be ai

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mired: much stern heroic virtue; much savage and horrible crime ; of low vulgar vice very little, at least amongst the great body of the Spanish nation, with which my mission lay; for it will be as well here to observe that I advance no claim to an intimate acquaintance with the Spanish nobility, from whom i kept as remote as circumstances would permit me; en revanche, however, I have had the honour to live on familiar terms with the peasants, shepherds, and muleteers of Spain, whose bread and bacalao I have eaten; who always treated me with kindness and courtesy, and to whom I have not unfrequently been indebted for shelter and protection. “The generous bearing of Francisco Gonzales, and the high deeds of

Ruy Diaz the Cid, are still sung amongst the fastnesses of the Sierra

Morena.” *

I believe that no stronger argument can be brought forward in proof of the natural vigour and resources of Spain, and the sterling character of her population, than the fact that, at the present day, she is still a powerful and unexhausted country, and her children still, to a certain extent, a high-minded and great people. Yes, notwithstanding the misrule of the brutal and sensual Austrian, the doting Bourbon, and, above all, the spiritual tyranny of the court of Rome, Spain can still maintain her own, fight her own combat, and Spaniards are not yet fanatic slaves and crouching beggars. This is saying much, very mueh: she has undergone far more than Naples had ever to bear, and yet the fate of Naples has not been hers. There is still valour in Asturia, generosity in Aragon, probity in Old Castile, and the peasant women of La Mancha can still afford to place a silver fork and a snowy napkin beside the plate of their guest. Yes, in spite of Austrian, Bourbon, and Rome, there is still a wide gulf between Spain and Naples. : : i

Strange as it may sound, Spain is not a fanatic country. I know something about her, and declare that she is not, nor has ever been: Spain never changes, It is true that, for nearly two centuries, she was the she-butcher, Za Verduga, of malignant Rome; the chosen instrument for carrying into effect the atrocious projects of that power; yet fanaticism was not the spring which impelled her to the work of butchery: another feeling, in her the predominant one, was worked upon—her fatal pride. It was by humouring her pride that she was induced to waste her precious blood and treasure in the Low Country wars, to launch the Armada, and to many other equally insane actions. Love of Rome had ever slight influence over her policy; but, flattered by the titlé of Gonfaloniera of the Vicar of Jesus, and eager to prove herself not unworthy of the same, she shut her eyes, and rushed upon her own destruction with the cry of “ Charge, Spain!”

Peat the arms of Spain became powerless abroad, and-she retired within herself. She ceased to be the tool of the vengeance and cruelty of Rome. She was not cast aside, however. No! though she could no longer wield the sword with success against the Lutherans, she might still be turned to some account. She had still gold and silver, and she was still the land of the vine and olive. Ceasing to be the butcher, she became the banker of Rome; and the poor Spaniards, who always esteem it a privilege to pay another person’s reckoning, were for a long time happy in being permitted to minister to the grasping cupidity of Rome, who, during the last century, probably extracted from Spain more treasure than from all the rest of Christendom.

But wars came into the land. Napoleon and his fierce Franks invaded Spain ;_ plunder and devastation ensued, the effects of which will probably be felt for ages. Spain could no longer pay pence to Peter so freely as of yore, and from that period she became contemptible in the eyes of Rome, who has no respect

PREFACE, 2, for a nation, save so far as it can minister to her cruelty or avarice. The Spaniard was still willing to pay, as far as his means would allow, bu; he was soon given to understand that he was a degraded being,—a barbarian ; nay, a beggar. Now you may draw the last cuarto from a Spaniard, provided -you will concede to him the title of cavalier, and rich man, for the old leaven still works as powerfully as in the time of the first Philip; but you must never hint

_ that he is poor, or that his blood is inferior to your own. And the old peasant, on being informed in what slight estimation he was held, replied, “If I ama beast, a barbarian, and a beggar withal, I am sorry for it; but, as there is no remedy, I shall spend these four bushels of barley, which I had reserved to alleviate the misery of the holy father, in procuring bull spectacles, and other convenient diversions, for the queen my wife, and the young princes my chilem Beggar! carajo! The water of my village is better tien the wine of

ome.”

I see that in a late pastoral letter directed to the Spaniards, the father of Rome complains bitterly of the treatment which he has received in Spain at the hands of naughty men. ‘ My cathedrals are let down,” he says, “my priests are insulted, and the revenues of my bishops are curtailed.” He consoles himself, however, with the idea, that this is the effect of the malice of a few, and that the generality of the nation love him, especially the peasantry, the innocent peasantry, who shed tears when they think of the sufferings of their pope and their religion. Undeceive yourself, Batuschea, undeceive yourself! Spain was ready to fight for you so long as she could increase her own glory by doing so; but she took no pleasure in losing battle after battle on your account. She had

‘no objection to pay money into your coffers in the shape of alms, expecting, however, that the same would be received with the gratitude and humility which become those who accept charity. Finding, however, that you were neither humble nor grateful; suspecting, moreover, that you held Austria in higher esteem than herself, even as a banker, she shrugged up her shoulders, and uttered a sentence somewhat similar to that which I have already put into the mouth of one of her children, “ These four bushels of barley,” &c.

It is truly surprising what little interest the great body of the Spanish nation took in the late struggle ; and yet it has been called by some, who ought to know better, a war of religion and principle. It was generally supposed that Biscay was the stronghold of Carlism, and that the inhabitants were fanatically attached to their religion, which they apprehended was in danger. The truth is, that the Basques cared nothing for Carlos or Rome, and merely took up arms to defend certain rights and privileges of their own. For the dwarfish brother of Ferdinand they always exhibited supreme contempt, which his character, a compound of imbecility, cowardice, and cruelty, well merited. If they made use of his name, it was merely as a cra de guerre. Much the same may be said with respect to his Spanish partisans, at least those who appeared in the field for him. These, however, were of a widely different character from the Basques, who were brave soldiers and honest men. The Spanish armies of Don Carlos were composed entirely of thieves and assassins, chiefly Valencians and Manchegans, who, marshalled under two cut-throats, Cabrera and Palillos, took advantage of the distracted state of the country to plunder and massacre the honest part of the community. With respect to the Queen Regent Christina, of whom the less said the better, the reins of government fell into her hands on the decease of her husband,

and with them the command of the soldiery. The respectable part of the Spanish

- nation, and more ae the honourable and toil-worn peasantry, loathed and

_ execrated both factions. Oft when I was sharing at nightfall the frugal fare of

the villager of Old or New Castile, on hearing the distant shot of the Christine as or Carlist bandit, he would invoke curses on the heads of the two pretenders, not forgetting the holy father and the goddess of Rome, Maria Santis- ‘sima. ‘Then, with the tiger energy of the Spaniard when roused, he would start ' b2

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up and exclaim, “ Vamos, Don Jorge, to the plain, to the plain! I wish to enlist oth you, and to learn the law of the English. To the plain, therefore, to the plain to-morrow, to circulate the gospel of Ingalaterra.’

Amongst the peasantry of Spain I found my sturdiest supporters ; and yet the holy father supposes that the Spanish labourers are friends and lovers of his. Undeceive yourself, Batuschea ! 5

But to return to the present work: it is devoted to an account of what befell me in Spain whilst engaged in distributing the Scripture. With respect to my poor labours, I wish here to observe, that I accomplished but very little, and that I lay claim to no brilliant successes and triumphs; indeed I was sent into Spain more to explore the country, and to ascertain how far the minds of the people were prepared to receive the truths of Christianity, than for any other ubject ; I obtained, however, through the assistance of kind friends, permission from the Spanish government to print an edition of the sacred volume at Madrid, which I subsequently circulated in that capital and in the provinces.

During my sojourn in Spain there were others who wrought good service in the Gospel cause, and of whose efforts it were unjust to be silent in a work of this description. Base is the heart which would refuse merit its meed ; and, however insignificant may be the value of any eulogium which ean flow from a pen like mine, I cannot refrain from mentioning with respect and esteem a few names connected with Gospel enterprise. A zealous Irish gentleman, of the name of Graydon, exerted himself with indefatigable diligence in diffusing the light of Scripture in the province of Catalonia, and along the southern shores of Spain ; whilst two missionaries from Gibraltar, Messrs. Rule and Lyon, during one entire year, preached Evangelic truth in a church at Cadiz. So much success attended the efforts of these two last, brave disciples of the immortal Wesley, that there is every reason for supposing that, had they not been silenced, and eventually banished from the country, by the pseudo-liberal faction of the Moderados, not only Cadiz, but the greater part of Andalusia, would by this time have confessed the pure doctrines of the Gospel, and have discarded for ever the last relics of popish superstition.

More immediately connected with the Bible Society and myself, I am most happy to take this opportunity of speaking of Luis de Usoz y Rio, the scion of an ancient and honourable family of Old Castile, my coadjutor whilst editing the Spanish New Testament at Madrid. Throughout my residence in Spain I experienced every mark of friendship from this gentleman, who, during the periods of my absence in the provinces, and my numerous and long journeys, cheerfully supplied my place at Madrid, and exerted himself to the utmost. in forwarding the views of the Bible Society, influenced by no other motive than a hope that its efforts would eventually contribute to the peace, happiness, and civilization of his native land.

In conclusion, I beg leave to state that I am fully aware of the various faults and inaccuracies of the present work. It is founded on certain journals which I kept during my stay in Spain, and numerous letters written to my friends in England, which they had subsequently the kindness to restore; the greater par’, however, consisting of descriptions of scenery, sketches of character, &c., has been supplied from memory. In various instances I have omitted the names of

laces, which I have either forgotten, or of whose orthography I am uncertain. he work, as it at present exists, was written in a solitary hamlet in a remote part of England, where I had neither books to consult, nor friends of whose opinion or advice I could occasionally avail myself, and under all the uisadvantages which arise from enfeebled health; I have, however, on a recent occasion, experienced too much of the lenity and generosity of the public, both of - Britain and America, to shrink from again exposing myself to its gaze; and trust that, if in the present volumes it find but little to admire, it will give me eredit for good spirit, and for setting down nought in malice- 4 Nov. 26, 1842. Yo

Chapter I

Man Overboard—The Tagus—Foreign Languages—Gesticulation—Streets of Lisbon —The Aqueduct—Bible tolerated in Portugal— intra—Don Sebastian—John de Castro—Conversation with a Priest—Colhares — Mafra —Its Palace — The Schoolmaster—The Portuguese—Their Ignorance of Scripture—Rural Priesthood—The Alemtej0 we cece ew we eo wo oo oe pagel

Chapter II

Boatmen of the Tagus— Dangers of the Stream—Aldea Gallega—The Hostelry— Robbers—Sabocha—Adventure of a Muleteer—Estalagem de Ladroes—von Geronimo—Vendas Novas—Royal Kesitence— Swine of the Alemtejo—Monte Moro— Swayne Vonved — Singular Goatherd — Children of the Fields—Jnfidels and Sadducees eee eee een eee eee of a CHAPTER II.

Shopkeeper at Evora—Spanish Contrabandistas—Lion and Unicorn—The Fountain —Trust in the Almighty—Distribution of Tracts—Library at Evora—Manuscript— The Bible as a Guide—The infamous Mary —The Man of Palmella—The Charm—The Monkish System — Sunday — Volney— An Auto-da-fe—Men from Spain—Reading of a Tract— New Arrival—The Herb Rose- MALY) Sele Miduisil vs vidmeis ee « 4

Chapter IV

Vexatious Delays— Drunken Driver — The Murdered Mule—The Lamentation—Adventure on the Heath—Fear of Darkness —Portuguese Fidalgo—The Escort—Return to Lisbon

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i CHAPTER V.

The College—The Rector — Shibboleth — National Prejudices— Youthful Sports — Jews of Lisbon —Crime aid Supersti- HIODie ben cesta Cal. As Oe) eee wr 20.

Lodging at Madrid—My Hostess— British Ambassador — Mendizabal— Baltaze -— Duties of a National—Young Blood The Execution — Population of Madrid——The Higher Orders—The Lower Classea#—The Bull Fighter—The Crabbed Gitdno. . . 69

CHAPTER XIII. Intrigues at Court—Quesada and Galiano

Dissolution of the Cortes—The Secretary— Aragonese Pertinacity—The Council of Trent—The Asturian—The Three Thieves —Benedict Mol—The Men of Lucerne— The Treasure Seles Shean ae ton eee

WHAPTER XIV.

State of Spain—Isturitz—Revolution of the Granja—The Disturbance—Signs of Mischief — Newspaper Reporters — Quesada’s Onslaught—The Closing Scene—Flight of the Moderados—The Coffee Bowl .«. . «82

Chapter XXI

Departure from Salamanca — Reception at itiegua—The Dilemma—Sudden Inspiration—The Good Presbyter—Combat of Qnadrupeds — Irish Christians — Plains of Spain—The Catalans—The Fatal Pool— Valladolid—Cireulation of the Scripture— Philippine Missions — English College — A Conversation—The Gaoleress . , . 118

Chapter XXVIII

Compostella—Rey Romero—The Treasure-seeker—Hopeful Project—The Church of Refuge—Hidden Riches—The Canon—Spirit of Localism—The Leper—Bonos of Saint JANOS Be cgeeteensl <i 6 Gin .a:enmneentas

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Skippers of Padron—Caldos de los Reyes— Pontevedra— The Notary Public — Insane Barber—An Introduction—Gallegan Language — Afternoon Ride — Vigo — The Stranger—Jews of the Desert—Bay of Vigo —Sudden Interruption—The Governor 162

Chapter XXIX

Arrival at Padron—Projected Enterprise—The Alquilador—Breach of Promise—An Odd Companion—A Plain Story—Rugged Paths —The Desertion—The Pony—A Dialogue— Unpleasant Situatiom—The Estadea—Benighted—The Hut—The Traveller’s Pil- LOWsaae: ‘srr aligtialnes ese a! aie emo ERLEST

Chapter XXX

Autumnal Morning—The World’s End—Corcuvion—Duyo—The Cape—A Whale—The Outer Bay—The Arrest—The Fisher-Magistrate —Calros Rey—Hard of Belief— Where is your Passport ?—The Beach—A mighty Liberal— The Handmaid — The Grand Baintham— Eccentric Book — Hos- Pitalityns -. 10 Hers >- eit sdewdeunteey ohe177

Maria Diaz—Priestly Vituperation—Antonio’s _ Visit—Antonio at Service—A Scene—Benedict Mol—Wandering in Spain—The Four ‘Evangiles. 2 «6 ee ee ee eo + 9 238

CHAPTER XLII. | Liberation from Prison—The Apology—Hu

| man Nature—The Greek’s Return—Church of Rome—Light of Scripture—Archbishop

| ef Toledo—An Interview—Stones of Price _ —A Resolution—The Foreign Language— Benedict’s Farewell—Treasure Hunt at gt RE eg and Fiction .. 242

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CHAPTER ‘XLIIL

Villa Seca—Moorish House—The Puchera— The Rustic Council—Polite Ceremonial— The Flower of Spain—The Bridge of Azeca —The Ruined Castle—Taking the Field— Demand for the Word—The Old Peasant— The Curate and Blacksmith—Cheapness of the Scriptures . . s se ste e 6 eo 6 249

CHAPTER XLIV Aranjuez—A Warning—A Night Adventare —A fresh Expedition—Segovia—Abades— Factious Curas—Lopez in Prison—Rescue of Lopez . . o 6 2 256

CHAPTER XLY.

ee ee Se 16 =e

Return to Spain—Seville—A hoary Persecutor—Manchegan Prophetess—Antonio’s Dream: Fe Sigapekent_ so cide sete 261

CHAPTER XLVI.

Work of Distribution resumed—Adventure at Cobenna—Power of the Clergy—Rural Au- _ thorities — Fuentela Higuera— Victoriano’s Mishap—Village Prison—The Rope—Antonio’s Errand—Antonio at Mass . . . . 264

CHAPTER XLVI.

Termination of our Rural Labours—Alarm of the Clergy—A New Experiment—Success at Madrid—Goblin-Alguazil—Staff of Office The Corregidor — An Explanation — The Pope in England—New Testament expounded—Works of Luther .... . 269

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Projected Journey—A Scene of Blood—The Friar—Seville—Beauties of Seville—Orange Trees and Flowers—Murillo—The Guardian Angel—Dionysius—My Coadjutors— Demand for the Bible ...... + «274

CHAPTER XLIX.

The Solitary House—The Dehesa—Johannes Chrysostom—Manuel—Bookselling at Seville—Dionysius and the Priests—Athens and Rome—Proselytism—Seizure of Testaments—Departure from Seville. . . .279

CHAPTER L.

Night on the Guadalquivir—Gospel Light— 3onanza—Strand of San Lucar—And@alusian Scenery—History of a Chest—Cosas de los Ingleses—The Two Gypsies—The Driver— The Red Nightcap—The Steam Boat— Christian Language . «>» +. .+ + « «284

CHAPTER LI.

Cadiz—The Fortifications—The Consul-General— Characteristic Anecdote — Catalan Steamer — Trafalgar — Alonzo Guzman — Gibil Muza—Orestes Frigate—The Hostile Lion—Works of the Creator—Lizard of the Rock—The Concourse—Queen of the Waters—Broken Prayer «+ «+ 2 «© .a@ x CONTENTS.

GnAPTER LIT,

The Jolly Hosteler—Aspirants for Glory—A Portrait— Hamdlos—Solomons—An Expedition—The Yeoman Soldier—The Excavations—The Pull by the Skirt—Judah and ais father—Judah’s Pilgrimage—The Bushy Beard—The False Moors—Judah and the King’s Son—Premature Old Age .. . 298

CHAPTER LIII.

Genoese Mariners—St. Michael’s Cave—Midnight Ab ysses—Young American—A Slave Proprietor—The Fairy Man—Infidelity 306

CHAPTER LIV.

Again on Board—The Strange Visage—The adji—Setting Sail—The Two Jews—American Vessel—Tangier—Adun Oulem—The Struggle—The Forbidden Thing . . . 310

CHAPTER LV.

The Mole—The Two Moors—Djmah of Tangier—House of God—British Consul—Curious Spectacle—The Moorish House—Joanna Correa—Ave Maria . . «+ ses. 315

CHAPTER LVI.

The Mahasni—Sin Samani—The Bazaar— Moorish Saints— See the Ayana!— The Prickly Fig—Jewish Graves—The Place of Carcases—The Stable Boy—Horses of the Moslem—Dar Dwag . « - «+ - « © 6 B19

CHAPTER LVII.

Strange Trio—The Mulatto—The Peace-offering—Moors of Granada—Vive la Guadeloupe —The Moors—Pascual Fava—Blind Aigerine—The Retreat . « + « + 0 6 0 © 6 884

THR

BLKBLE IN

SPAIN.

Chapter I

Man overboard—The Tayus—Foreign Languages—Gesticulation—Streets of Lisbon—Thea Aqueduct—Bible tolerated in Portugal—Cintra—Don Sebastian—John de Castro—Conver sation with a Priest—Colhares—Mafra—-Its

Palace—The Schoolmaster—The Portuguese

Their Ignorance of Scripture—Rural Priesthood—The Alemtejo.

On the morning of the 16th of November, 1835, I found myself off the coast of Galicia, whose lofty mountains, gilded by the risizg sun, presented a magnificent appearance, I was bound for Lisbon ; we passed Cape Finisterre,

- and, standing farther out to sea, speedily jost sight of Jand. On the morning of the 11th the sea was very rough, and *aremarkable circumstance occurred.

I was on the forecastle, discoursing with two of the sailors: one of them, who had but just left his hammock, said, “I have had a strange dream, which I do not much like; for,’ continued he, pointing up to the mast, “ I dreamt that I fell into the sea from the cross-trees.”” He was heard to say this by several of the crew besides myself. A moment after, the captain of the vessel, perceiving that the squall was increasing, ordered the topsails to be taken in, whereupon this man, with several others, instantly ran aloft; the yard was in the act of being hauled down, when a sudden gust of wind whirled it round with violence, and a

~ man was struck down from the eross-

. .

trees into the sea, which was working like yeast below. In a short time he emerged ; I saw his head on the crest dream. I shall never forget the look of agony he cast whilst the steamer hurried past him. The alarm was given, and everything was in confusion; it was two minutes at least before the vessel was stopped, by which time the man was a considerable way astern : I still, however, kept my eyé upon him, and could see that he was struggling gallantly with the waves. A boat was at length lowered, but the rudder was unfortunately not at hand, and only two oars could be procured, with which the men could make but little progress in so rough asea, They did their best, however, and had arrived within ten yards of the man, who still struggled for his life, when I lost sight of him; and the men, on’ their return, said that they saw him below the water, at glimpses, sinking deeper ‘and deeper, hisarms stretched out and his body apparently stiff, but that they found it impossible to save him: presently after, the sea, as if satisfied with the prey which ithad piel ats became comparatively calm. The poor fellow who perished in this singular manner was a fine young man of twenty-seven, the only son of a widowed mother ; he was the best sailor on board, and was

* ofa bi‘low, and instantly recognised in | beloved by all who “were acquainted rs 7

‘the unfortunate man the sailor who, 4 few moments before, had related his with him. This event occurred on the lith of November, 1835; the vessel : B was the London Merchant steam-ship. Truly wonderful are the ways of Providence !

That same night we entered the Tagus, and dropped anchor before the old tower of Belem; early the next morning we weighed, and, proceeding onward about a league, we again anchored at a short distance from the Caesodré, or principal quay of Lisbon. Here we lay for some hours beside the enormous black hulk of the Rainha Nao, a man-of-war which in old times so captivated the eye of Nelson, that he would fain have procured it for his native country, She was, long subsequently, the admiral’s ship of the Miguelite squadron, and had been captured by the gailant Napier about three years previous to the time of which I am speaking.

The Rainha Nao is said to have caused him more trouble than_all the other vessels of the enemy ; and some assert that, had the others defended +hemsely..s with half the fury which the old vixen queen displayed, the result of the battle which decided the fate of Portugal would have been widely different.

I found disembarkation at Lisbon to be a matter of considerable vexation ; the custom-house officers were exceedingly uncivil, and examined every article of my little baggage with most provoking’ minuteness.

My first impression on landing in the Peninsula was by no means a favourable. one; and I had _ scarcel ee the soil one hour. before I

eartily wished myself back in Russia, a country which I had quitted about one month previous, and where I had Jeft cherished friends and warm affeetions.

After having submitted to much ill usage and robbery at the custom-house, I proceeded in. quest of a lodging, and af last found one, but dirty and expensive. The next day I hired a servant, a Portuguese, it being my invariable custom, on arriving in a country, to uvail myself of the services of a native, chiefly with the view of perfecting myself in the language; and, being already svgaainted with most of the principal

[cHap. 1. languages and dialects of the east and the west, I am soon able to make myself quite intelligible to the inhabitants. In about a fortnight I found myself conversing in Portuguese with considerable fluency.

Those who wish to make themselves understood by a foreigner in his own language should speak with much noise and vociferation, opening their mouths wide. Is it surprising that the English are, in general, the worst linguists in the world, seeing that they pursue a system diametrically opposite? For example, when they attempt to speak Spanish—the most sonorous tongue in existence—they scarcely open their lips, and, putting their hands in their pockets, fumble lazily, instead of applying them to the indispensable office of gesticulation. Well may the poor Spaniards exclaim, These English talk so crabbedly, that Satan: himself would not be able to understand them. E

Lisbon is a huge ruinous city, still exhibiting, in almost every direction, the vestiges of that terrific visitation of God, the earthquake, which shattered it some eighty years ago. It stands on seven hills, the loftiest of which is occupied by the castle of Saint George, which is the boldest and most prominent object to the eye, whilst surveying the city from the Tagus, The most frequented and busy parts of the city are those comprised within the valley to the north of this elevation.

Here you find the Plaza of the In-

uisition, the principal square in Lisbon,

m which run parallel; towards the river, three or four streets, amongst which are those of the gold and silver, so designated from being inhabited by smiths cunning in the working of those metals ; they are, upon the whole, very magnificent. The houses are huge, and as high as castles. Immense pillars defend the causeway at intervals, producing, however, rather a cumbrous effect. These streets are quite level, and are well paved, in which respect they differ from all the others in Lisbon. The most singular street, how- — ever, of all is that of the Alemcrin, or

ry, which debouches on the Caesodre. It is very precipitous, and

Chap. I.]

is oceupied on either side by the palaces of the principal Portuguese: nobility, massive and frowning, but grand and picturesque edifices, with here and there a hanging garden, overlooking the street at a great height.